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Sarajevo

January 09, 2023

For other uses, see Sarajevo (disambiguation).

Sarajevo (/ˌsærəˈjeɪvoʊ/ SARR-ə-YAY-voh; Cyrillic: Сарајево, pronounced [sǎrajeʋo] (listen); see names in other languages) is the capital[5] and largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a population of 275,524 in its administrative limits.[6][4] The Sarajevo metropolitan area including Sarajevo Canton, East Sarajevo and nearby municipalities is home to 555,210 inhabitants.[a][4] Located within the greater Sarajevo valley of Bosnia, it is surrounded by the Dinaric Alps and situated along the Miljacka River in the heart of the Balkans, a region of Southern Europe.

Sarajevo
Сарајево
Capital city
  • Grad Sarajevo
  • Град Сарајево
  • City of Sarajevo
Clockwise from top: Sarajevo panorama, Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos, Vijećnica, Sarajevo cable car, Holiday Inn and the UNITIC World Trade Towers, Sebilj and the Sacred Heart Cathedral.
Flag
Coat of arms
Nickname(s): 
"Jerusalem of Europe",[1] "Jerusalem of the Balkans",[2] "Šeher, Rajvosa"[3]
Sarajevo
Location within Bosnia and Herzegovina
Sarajevo
Location within Europe
Sarajevo
Sarajevo (Europe)
Coordinates: 43°51′23″N 18°24′47″E / 43.85639°N 18.41306°E / 43.85639; 18.41306Coordinates: 43°51′23″N 18°24′47″E / 43.85639°N 18.41306°E / 43.85639; 18.41306
Country Bosnia and Herzegovina
EntityFederation of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Canton Sarajevo Canton
Municipalities:4
Founded1461
Government
 • BodySarajevo City Council
 • MayorBenjamina Karić (SDP BiH)
Area
 • City proper141.5 km2 (54.6 sq mi)
 • Urban
419.16 km2 (161.84 sq mi)
 • Metro
3,350 km2 (1,290 sq mi)
Elevation
550 m (1,800 ft)
Population
 (2013 census)[4]
 • City proper275,524
 • Density1,900/km2 (5,000/sq mi)
 • Urban
419,957
 • Urban density1,000/km2 (2,600/sq mi)
 • Metro
555,210
 • Metro density170/km2 (430/sq mi)
 • Demonym
  • Sarajevan (English)
  • Sarajlija (Bosnian)
Time zoneUTC+1 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+2 (CEST)
Postal code
71000
Area code+387 33
Websitesarajevo.ba

Sarajevo is the political, financial, social and cultural center of Bosnia and Herzegovina and a prominent center of culture in the Balkans. It exerts region-wide influence in entertainment, media, fashion and the arts.[7][8] Due to its long history of religious and cultural diversity, Sarajevo is sometimes called the "Jerusalem of Europe"[1] or "Jerusalem of the Balkans".[2] It is one of a few major European cities to have a mosque, Catholic church, Eastern Orthodox church, and synagogue within the same neighborhood.[9]

Although there is evidence of human settlement in the area since prehistoric times, the modern city arose in the 15th century as an Ottoman stronghold, when the latter empire extended into Europe. [10] Sarajevo has gained international renown several times throughout its history. In 1885, it was the first city in Europe and the second city in the world to have a full-time electric tram network running through the city, following San Francisco, California, of the United States.[11] In 1914, it was the site of the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand by a local Young Bosnia activist Gavrilo Princip, a murder that sparked World War I. This resulted in the end of Austro-Hungarian rule in Bosnia and the creation of the multicultural Kingdom of Yugoslavia in the Balkan region.

Later, after World War II, the area came under control of the communist Socialist Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina within the republic also known as Second Yugoslavia. As Sarajevo was designated as this larger republic's capital, its population and businesses expanded rapidly, with investment in infrastructure and economic development.

In 1984 the socialist republic hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics, which marked a prosperous era for the city. However, after the start of the Yugoslav Wars, the city suffered the longest siege of a capital city in the history of modern warfare, for a total of 1,425 days, from April 1992 to February 1996. This was during the Bosnian War and the breakup of Yugoslavia, under nationalist ethnic passions that tore families apart and resulted in genocide and massacres.[12]

With continued post-war reconstruction in the aftermath, Sarajevo is the fastest growing city in Bosnia and Herzegovina.[13] The travel guide series Lonely Planet ranked Sarajevo as the 43rd best city in the world.[14] In December 2009, it recommended Sarajevo as one of the top ten cities to visit in 2010.[15]

In 2011, Sarajevo was nominated as the 2014 European Capital of Culture. It was selected to host the European Youth Olympic Festival.[16][17] In addition, in October 2019, Sarajevo was designated as a UNESCO Creative City for having placed culture at the center of its development strategies.[18][19] It is also ranked as one of the world's eighteen Cities of Film.[citation needed]

Etymology

 
Sarajevo at twilight.

The name Sarajevo derives from the Turkish noun saray, meaning "palace" or "mansion" (from Persian sarāy, سرای, of the same meaning). Scholars disagree on the origin of the evo attached to the end. In Slavic languages, the addition of "evo" may indicate a possessive noun, thereby making the name of Sarajevo, 'city of the palace."

One theory is that the name may have been derived from the Ottoman Turkish term saray ovası, first recorded in 1455,[20] meaning "the plains around the palace" or simply "palace plains".[21]

However, in his Dictionary of Turkish Loanwords, Abdulah Škaljić maintains that the evo ending is more likely to have come from the widespread Slavic suffix evo used to indicate place names, than from the Turkish ending ova.[22] The first mention of the name Sarajevo was in a 1507 letter written by Firuz Bey.[23] The official name during the 400 years of Ottoman rule was Saraybosna ("Palace of Bosnia"), which remains the city's name in Modern Turkish.

Sarajevo has had many nicknames. The earliest is Šeher, the term Isa-Beg Ishaković used to describe the town he was going to build—which is Turkish for "city" (şehir), in turn coming from the Persian shahr (شهر, meaning "city"). As Sarajevo developed, numerous nicknames came from comparisons to other cities in the Islamic world, i.e. "Damascus of the North" and "European Jerusalem"; the latter being the most popular.

Environment

Geography

 
Sarajevo topographic map.

Sarajevo is near the geometric center of the triangular-shaped Bosnia and Herzegovina and within the historical region of Bosnia proper. It is situated 518 m (1,699 ft) above sea level and lies in the Sarajevo valley, in the middle of the Dinaric Alps.[24]

The valley was once an expansive, fertile and green space, but considerable urban expansion and development took place following World War II. The city is surrounded by forested hills and five major mountains. The highest of the surrounding peaks is Treskavica at 2,088 m (6,850 ft), followed by Bjelašnica mountain at 2,067 m (6,781 ft), Jahorina at 1,913 m (6,276 ft), Trebević at 1,627 m (5,338 ft), and Igman the shortest at 1,502 m (4,928 ft). The last four are also known as the Olympic Mountains of Sarajevo

When the city hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics, venues were constructed at these mountains for many winter sports events. The city is developed within hilly terrain; there are many steeply inclined streets and residences that seem to perch on the hillsides.

The Miljacka river is one of the city's chief geographic features. It flows through the city from east through the center of Sarajevo to the west part of the city, where it eventually meets up with the Bosna river. Miljacka river is also known as "The Sarajevo River". Its source (Vrelo Miljacke) is 2 km (1.2 mi) south of the town of Pale[25] at the foothills of Mount Jahorina, several kilometers to the east of Sarajevo center. The Bosna's source, Vrelo Bosne near Ilidža (west Sarajevo), is another notable natural landmark and a popular destination for Sarajevans and other tourists. Several smaller rivers and streams such as Koševski Potok also run through the city and its vicinity.

Cityscape

 
View of Sarajevo from a popular Yellow Bastion lookout.

Sarajevo is close to the center of the triangular shape of Bosnia and Herzegovina in southeastern Europe. The Sarajevo city proper consists of four municipalities (or "in Bosnian and Croatian: općina, in Serbian: opština"): Centar (Center), Novi Grad (New City), Novo Sarajevo (New Sarajevo), and Stari Grad (Old City), while the Sarajevo metropolitan area (Greater Sarajevo area) includes these and the neighbouring municipalities of Ilidža, Hadžići, Vogošća and Ilijaš.

The Metropolitan area was reduced in the 1990s after the war and the Dayton-imposed administrative division of the country, with several municipalities partitioned along the border of the newly recognised Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina (FBiH) and Republika Srpska (RS), creating several new municipalities which together form the city of Istočno Sarajevo in the Republika Srpska: Istočna Ilidza, Istočno Novo Sarajevo, Istočni Stari Grad, Lukavica, Pale (RS-section), and Trnovo (RS-section), along with the municipality of Sokolac (which was not traditionally part of the Sarajevo area and was not partitioned).

The city has an urban area of 1,041.5 km2 (402.1 sq mi). Veliki Park (Great park) is the largest green area in the center of Sarajevo. It's nestled between Titova, Koševo, Džidžikovac, Tina Ujevića and Trampina Streets and in the lower part there is a monument dedicated to the Children of Sarajevo.

Climate

 
Autumn in Sarajevo - Veliki Park.

Sarajevo has either a humid continental climate (Köppen climate classification: Dfb), or an oceanic climate (Köppen climate classification: Cfb), depending on if either the 0 °C or the -3 °C isotherms are used. Sarajevo's climate exhibits four seasons and uniformly spread precipitation, typical of both Cfb and Dfb climates. The proximity of the Adriatic Sea moderates Sarajevo's climate somewhat, although the mountains to the south of the city greatly reduce this maritime influence.[26] The average yearly temperature is 10 °C (50 °F), with January (−0.5 °C (31.1 °F) on average) being the coldest month of the year and July (19.7 °C (67.5 °F) on average) the warmest.

The highest recorded temperature was 40.7 °C (105 °F) on 19 August 1946, and on 23 August 2008 (41.0) while the lowest recorded temperature was −26.2 °C (−15.2 °F) on 25 January 1942. On average, Sarajevo has 7 days where the temperature exceeds 32 °C (89.6 °F) and 4 days where the temperature drops below −15 °C (5 °F) per year.[27] The city typically experiences mildly cloudy skies, with an average yearly cloud cover of 45%.

The cloudiest month is December (75% average cloud cover) while the clearest is August (37%). Moderate precipitation occurs fairly consistently throughout the year, with an average 75 days of rainfall. Suitable climatic conditions have allowed winter sports to flourish in the region, as exemplified by the 1984 Winter Olympics that were held in Sarajevo. Average winds are 28–48 km/h (17–30 mph) and the city has 1,769 hours of sunshine.

Climate data for Sarajevo
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 18.2
(64.8) 		21.4
(70.5) 		26.6
(79.9) 		30.2
(86.4) 		33.2
(91.8) 		35.9
(96.6) 		38.4
(101.1) 		40.0
(104.0) 		37.7
(99.9) 		32.2
(90.0) 		24.7
(76.5) 		18.0
(64.4) 		40.0
(104.0)
Average high °C (°F) 3.7
(38.7) 		6.0
(42.8) 		10.9
(51.6) 		15.6
(60.1) 		21.4
(70.5) 		24.5
(76.1) 		27.0
(80.6) 		27.2
(81.0) 		22.0
(71.6) 		17.0
(62.6) 		9.7
(49.5) 		4.2
(39.6) 		15.8
(60.4)
Daily mean °C (°F) 0.2
(32.4) 		1.8
(35.2) 		6.0
(42.8) 		10.2
(50.4) 		15.2
(59.4) 		18.2
(64.8) 		20.3
(68.5) 		20.4
(68.7) 		16.0
(60.8) 		11.7
(53.1) 		5.8
(42.4) 		1.2
(34.2) 		10.6
(51.1)
Average low °C (°F) −3.3
(26.1) 		−2.5
(27.5) 		1.1
(34.0) 		4.8
(40.6) 		9.0
(48.2) 		11.9
(53.4) 		13.7
(56.7) 		13.7
(56.7) 		10.0
(50.0) 		6.4
(43.5) 		1.9
(35.4) 		−1.8
(28.8) 		5.4
(41.7)
Record low °C (°F) −26.8
(−16.2) 		−23.4
(−10.1) 		−26.4
(−15.5) 		−13.2
(8.2) 		−9.0
(15.8) 		−3.2
(26.2) 		−2.7
(27.1) 		−1.0
(30.2) 		−4.0
(24.8) 		−10.9
(12.4) 		−19.3
(−2.7) 		−22.4
(−8.3) 		−26.8
(−16.2)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 68
(2.7) 		64
(2.5) 		70
(2.8) 		77
(3.0) 		72
(2.8) 		90
(3.5) 		72
(2.8) 		66
(2.6) 		91
(3.6) 		86
(3.4) 		85
(3.3) 		86
(3.4) 		928
(36.5)
Average rainy days 8 10 13 17 17 16 14 13 15 13 12 11 159
Average snowy days 10 12 9 2 0.2 0 0 0 0 2 6 12 53
Average relative humidity (%) 79 74 68 67 68 70 69 69 75 77 76 81 73
Mean monthly sunshine hours 57.1 83.8 125.6 152.3 191.7 207.1 256.3 238.2 186.6 148.8 81.2 40.7 1,769.4
Source 1: Pogoda.ru.net[28]
Source 2: NOAA (sun, 1961–1990)[29]
 
A panoramic view of Sarajevo valley from "Yellow Bastion" (Žuta tabija) lookout, spring 2012.

Air quality

Air pollution is a major issue in Sarajevo.[30][31] According to the 2016 World Health Organization's Ambient Air Pollution Database,[32] the annual average PM2.5 concentration in 2010 was estimated to be 30 μg/m3 based on PM10 measurement, which is 3 times higher than recommended by WHO Air Quality Guidelines[33] for the annual average PM2.5. There are no recent direct long-term PM2.5 measurements available in Sarajevo and only estimates can be made from PM10, which is the less health-relevant than PM2.5.[34] Real-time air quality data in the form of PM10, ozone, NO2, CO and SO2 by the Federal Hydrometeorological Institute 13 September 2018 at the Wayback Machine.[35]

History

Main article: History of Sarajevo
For a chronological guide, see Timeline of Sarajevo.
See also: History of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Historical affiliations

  Ottoman Empire 1461–1878 de facto, 1908 de jure

Ancient times

Main article: Stari Grad, Sarajevo
 
Neolithic period Butmir vase.

One of the earliest findings of settlement in the Sarajevo area is that of the Neolithic Butmir culture. The discoveries at Butmir were made on the grounds of the modern-day Sarajevo suburb Ilidža in 1893 by Austro-Hungarian authorities during the construction of an agricultural school. The area's richness in flint was attractive to Neolithic humans, and the settlement flourished. The settlement developed unique ceramics and pottery designs, which characterize the Butmir people as a unique culture, as described at the International Congress of Archaeologists and Anthropologists meeting in Sarajevo in 1894.[36]

The next prominent culture in Sarajevo were the Illyrians. The ancient people, who considered most of the Western Balkans as their homeland, had several key settlements in the region, mostly around the river Miljacka and the Sarajevo valley. The Illyrians in the Sarajevo region belonged to the Daesitiates, the last Illyrian people in Bosnia and Herzegovina to resist Roman occupation. Their defeat by the Roman emperor Tiberius in 9 AD marks the start of Roman rule in the region. The Romans never built up the region of modern-day Bosnia, but the Roman colony of Aquae Sulphurae was near the top of present-day Ilidža, and was the most important settlement of the time.[37] After the Romans, the Goths settled the area, followed by the Slavs in the 7th century.[38]

Middle Ages

See also: Sarajevo during the Middle Ages
 
Roman bridge, erected 1530 in Ilidža, built of remnants of an old Roman settlement.

During the Middle Ages, Sarajevo was part of the Bosnian province of Vrhbosna near the traditional center of the Kingdom of Bosnia. Though a city named Vrhbosna existed, the exact settlement in Sarajevo at this time is debated. Various documents note a place called Tornik in the region, most likely in the area of the Marijin Dvor neighborhood. By all indications, Tornik was a very small marketplace surrounded by a proportionally small village, and was not considered very important by Ragusan merchants.

Other scholars say that Vrhbosna was a major town in the wider area of modern-day Sarajevo. Papal documents say that in 1238, a cathedral dedicated to Saint Paul was built in the area. Disciples of the notable saints Cyril and Methodius stopped in the region, founding a church near Vrelo Bosne. Whether or not the town was somewhere in the area of modern-day Sarajevo, the documents attest to its and the region's importance. There was also a citadel Hodidjed north-east to the Old City, dating from around 1263 until it was occupied by the Ottoman Empire in 1429.[39]

Ottoman era

See also: Bosnia and Herzegovina cuisine
 
The Sebilj is a pseudo-Ottoman style wooden fountain in the centre of Baščaršija square. The current structure is an 1891 reconstruction of the original, which burnt down in 1852.

Sarajevo was founded by the Ottoman Empire in the 1450s upon its conquest of the region, with 1461 used as the city's founding date. The first Ottoman governor of Bosnia, Isa-Beg Ishaković, transformed the cluster of villages into a city and state capital by building a number of key structures, including a mosque, a closed marketplace, a public bath, a hostel, and of course the governor's castle ("Saray") which gave the city its present name. The mosque was named "Careva Džamija" (the Emperor's Mosque) in honor of Sultan Mehmed II. With the improvements, Sarajevo quickly grew into the largest city in the region. By the 15th century the settlement was established as a city, named Bosna-Saraj, around the citadel in 1461.

Following the expulsion of Jews from Spain at the end of the 15th century, and the invitation from the Ottoman Empire to resettle their population, Sephardic Jews arrived in Sarajevo, which over time would become a leading center of Sephardic culture and the Ladino language. Though relatively small in size, a Jewish quarter would develop over several blocks in Baščaršija.

Many local Christians converted to Islam at this time. To accommodate the new pilgrims on the road to Mecca, in 1541, Gazi Husrev-beg's quartermaster Vekil-Harrach built a Pilgrim's mosque for which it is still known to this day as the Hadžijska Mosque.

Under leaders such as the second governor Gazi Husrev-beg, Sarajevo grew at a rapid rate. Husrev-beg greatly shaped the physical city, as most of what is now the Old Town was built during his reign. Sarajevo became known for its large marketplace and numerous mosques, which by the middle of the 16th century numbered more than 100. At the peak of the empire, Sarajevo was the biggest and most important Ottoman city in the Balkans after Istanbul.[40] By 1660, the population of Sarajevo was estimated to be over 80,000.[41] By contrast, Belgrade in 1683 had 100,000,[42] and Zagreb as late as 1851 had 14,000 people. As political conditions changed, Sarajevo became the site of warfare.

In 1697, during the Great Turkish War, a raid was led by Prince Eugene of Savoy of the Habsburg monarchy against the Ottoman Empire, which conquered Sarajevo and left it plague-infected and burned to the ground. After his men had looted thoroughly, they set the city on fire and destroyed nearly all of it in one day. Only a handful of neighborhoods, some mosques, and an Orthodox church, were left standing. Numerous other fires weakened the city, which was later rebuilt but never fully recovered from the destruction. By 1807, it had only some 60,000 residents.[41]

In the 1830s, several battles of the Bosnian uprising had taken place around the city. These had been led by Husein Gradaščević. Today, a major city street is named Zmaj od Bosne (Dragon of Bosnia) in his honor. The rebellion failed and for several more decades, the Ottoman state remained in control of Bosnia.

The Ottoman Empire made Sarajevo an important administrative centre by 1850. Baščaršija became the central commercial district and cultural center of the city in the 15th century when Isa-Beg Ishaković founded the town.[43] The toponym Baščaršija derives from the Turkish language.

Austria-Hungary

 
Old stone bridge over the Koševski Potok (circa 1880; left), later demolished to give away space for a tram station; Ali Pasha Mosque (right).
 
Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria arrives at the city hall on the day of his assassination, 28 June 1914.

Austria-Hungary's occupation of Bosnia and Herzegovina came in 1878 as part of the Treaty of Berlin, and complete annexation followed in 1908, angering the Serbs. Sarajevo was industrialized by Austria-Hungary, who used the city as a testing area for new inventions such as tramways, which were established in 1885 before they were later installed in Vienna. Architects and engineers wanting to help rebuild Sarajevo as a modern European capital rushed to the city. A fire that burned down a large part of the central city area (čaršija) left more room for redevelopment. As a result, the city has a unique blend of the remaining Ottoman city market and contemporary western architecture. Sarajevo also has some examples of Secession- and Pseudo-Moorish styles that date from this period.

The Austro-Hungarian period was one of great development for the city, as the Western power brought its new acquisition up to the standards of the Victorian age. Various factories and other buildings were built at this time,[44] and a large number of institutions were both Westernized and modernized. For the first time in history, Sarajevo's population began writing in Latin script.[38][45] For the first time in centuries, the city significantly expanded outside its traditional borders. Much of the city's contemporary central municipality (Centar) was constructed during this period.

Architecture in Sarajevo quickly developed into a wide range of styles and buildings. The Sacred Heart Cathedral, for example, was constructed using elements of neo-gothic and Romanesque architecture. The National Museum, Sarajevo brewery, and City Hall were also constructed during this period. Additionally, Austrian officials made Sarajevo the first city in this part of Europe to have a tramway.

Although the Bosnia Vilayet de jure remained part of the Ottoman Empire, it was de facto governed as an integral part of Austria-Hungary with the Ottomans having no say in its day-to-day governance. This lasted until 1908 when the territory was formally annexed and turned into a condominium, jointly controlled by both Austrian Cisleithania and Hungarian Transleithania.

In the event that triggered World War I, the Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria was assassinated, along with his wife Sophie, Duchess of Hohenberg in Sarajevo on 28 June 1914 by Gavrilo Princip, a Bosnian and self-declared Yugoslav, and member of Young Bosnia.[46] This was followed by the Anti-Serb riots in Sarajevo, which resulted in two deaths and destruction of property.

In the ensuing war, however, most of the Balkan offensives occurred near Belgrade, and Sarajevo largely escaped damage and destruction. Following the war, Bosnia was annexed into the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, and Sarajevo became the capital of the Drina Province.

Yugoslavia

After World War I and pressure from the Royal Serbian Army, alongside rebelling Slavic nations in Austria-Hungary, Sarajevo became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Though it held some political significance as the center of first the Bosnian region and then the Drinska Banovina, the city was no longer a national capital and saw a decline in global influence.[47]

During World War II, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia's army was overrun by German and Italian forces. Following a German bombing campaign, Sarajevo was captured on 15 April 1941 by the 16th Motorized infantry Division. The Axis powers created the Independent State of Croatia and included Sarajevo in its territory.

Immediately following the occupation, the main Sephardi Jewish synagogue, Il Kal Grande, was looted, burned, and destroyed by the Nazis. Within a matter of months, the centuries-old Sephardi and Ashkenazi Jewish communities of Sarajevo, comprising the vast majority of Bosnian Jewry, would be rounded up in the Old Synagogue (Stari hram) and deported to their deaths in Croatian concentration camps. Roughly 85% of Bosnia's Jewish population would perish at the hands of the Nazis and the Ustaše during the Holocaust in the region. The Sarajevo Haggadah was the most important artifact which survived this period, smuggled out of Sarajevo and saved from the Nazis and Ustaše by the chief librarian of the National Museum, Derviš Korkut.

On 12 October 1941, a group of 108 notable Bosniak citizens of Sarajevo signed the Resolution of Sarajevo Muslims by which they condemned the Genocide of Serbs organized by the Ustaše, made a distinction between the Bosniaks who participated in such persecutions and the rest of the Bosniak population, presented information about the persecutions of Bosniaks by Serbs, and requested security for all citizens of the country, regardless of their identity.[48] During the summer of 1941, Ustaše militia periodically interned and executed groups of Sarajevo Serbs.[49] In August 1941, they arrested about one hundred Serbs suspected of ties to the resistance armies, mostly church officials and members of the intelligentsia, and executed them or deported them to concentration camps.[49] By mid-summer 1942, around 20,000 Serbs found refuge in Sarajevo from Ustaše terror.[50]

The city was bombed by the Allies from 1943 to 1944.[51] The Yugoslav Partisan movement was represented in the city. In the period February–May 1945, Maks Luburić set up an Ustaše headquarters in a building known as Villa Luburić and used it as a torture and execution place whose 323 victims were identified after the war. The resistance was led by Vladimir Perić Valter, who died while leading the liberation of the city on 6 April 1945.

After the war, Sarajevo was the capital of the Socialist Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina within the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. The Republic Government invested heavily in Sarajevo, building many new residential blocks in the municipalities of Novi Grad and Novo Sarajevo, while simultaneously developing the city's industry and transforming Sarajevo into a modern city. Sarajevo grew rapidly as it became an important regional industrial center in Yugoslavia. Between the end of the war and the end of Yugoslavia, the city grew from a population of 115,000 to more than 600,000 people. The Vraca Memorial Park, a monument for victims of World War II, was dedicated on 25 November, the "Statehood Day of Bosnia and Herzegovina" when the ZAVNOBIH held their first meeting in 1943.[52]

A crowning moment of Sarajevo's time in Socialist Yugoslavia was the 1984 Winter Olympics. Sarajevo beat out Sapporo, Japan, and Falun/Gothenburg, Sweden, to host the Olympic Games. The games were followed by a tourism boom, making the 1980s one of the city's most prosperous decades.[53]

Bosnian War

Main article: Siege of Sarajevo
See also: Sniper Alley
 
The Sarajevo Red Line, a memorial event of the Siege of Sarajevo's 20th anniversary. 11,541 empty chairs symbolized 11,541 victims of the war which were killed during the Siege.[54][55]

The Bosnian War for independence resulted in large-scale destruction and dramatic population shifts during the Siege of Sarajevo between 1992 and 1996. Thousands of Sarajevans lost their lives under the constant bombardment and sniper shooting at civilians by the Serb forces during the siege,[56] the longest siege of a capital city in the history of modern warfare.[57] Bosnian Serb forces of the Republika Srpska and the Yugoslav People's Army besieged Sarajevo from 5 April 1992 to 29 February 1996.

When Bosnia and Herzegovina declared independence from Yugoslavia and achieved United Nations recognition, Serbian leaders declared a new Serbian national state Republika Srpska (RS) which was carved out from the territory of Bosnia and Herzegovina.[58] The Army of Republika Srpska encircled Sarajevo with a siege force of 18,000[59] stationed in the surrounding hills, from which they assaulted the city with artillery, mortars, tanks, anti-aircraft guns, heavy machine-guns, multiple rocket launchers, rocket-launched aircraft bombs, and sniper rifles.[59] From 2 May 1992, the Serbs blockaded the city. The Bosnian government defence forces inside the besieged city were poorly equipped and unable to break the siege.

 
The signing of the Dayton Agreement in Paris ended the 3 1⁄2-year-long Bosnian War.

During the siege, 11,541 people lost their lives, including over 1,500 children. An additional 56,000 people were wounded, including nearly 15,000 children.[56] The 1991 census indicates that before the siege the city and its surrounding areas had a population of 525,980.

When the siege ended, the concrete scars caused by mortar shell explosions left marks that were filled with red resin. After the red resin was placed, it left floral patterns which led to them being dubbed Sarajevo Roses. Division of the territory according to the Dayton Agreement resulted in a mass exodus in early 1996 of some 62,000 Sarajevo Serbs from the city and its suburbs, creating today's more monoethnic post-war city.[60]

Present

Main article: History of modern Sarajevo

Various modern buildings now occupy Sarajevo's skyline, most significantly the Bosmal City Center, BBI Centar, Sarajevo City Center (all three by architect Sead Gološ) and the Avaz Twist Tower, which at the time of its building was the tallest skyscraper in former Yugoslavia.

Recent years have seen population growth as well as increases in tourism.[61] In 2014, the city saw anti-government protests and riots and record rainfall that caused historic flooding.

Administration

Largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina

 
 
The Building of the Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina (left) and Bosnia and Herzegovina's government building (right).

Sarajevo is the capital[62] of the country of Bosnia and Herzegovina and its sub-entity, the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, as well as of the Sarajevo Canton. It is also the de jure capital of another entity, Republika Srpska.[63] Each of these levels of government has its parliament or council, as well as judicial courts, in the city. All national institutions and foreign embassies are in Sarajevo.

Sarajevo is home to the Council of Ministers of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Parliamentary Assembly of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Constitutional Court of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the operational command of the Armed Forces of Bosnia and Herzegovina.[64]

Bosnia and Herzegovina's Parliament office in Sarajevo was damaged heavily in the Bosnian War. Due to damage, the staff and documents were moved to a nearby ground-level office to resume work. In late 2006, reconstruction work started on Parliament and was finished in 2007. The cost of reconstruction was 80% funded by the Greek Government through the Hellenic Program of Balkans Reconstruction (ESOAV), and 20% by Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Municipalities and city government

Main articles: List of mayors of Sarajevo and Sarajevo City Council
 
The four municipalities of the City of Sarajevo (Stari Grad, Centar, Novo Sarajevo and Novi Grad) within the territory of Sarajevo Canton.

The City of Sarajevo comprises four municipalities: Centar, Novi Grad, Novo Sarajevo, and Stari Grad. Each operate their own municipal government, while united they form one city government with its own constitution. The executive branch (Bosnian: Gradska uprava) consists of a mayor, with two deputies and a cabinet. The legislative branch consists of the City Council, or Gradsko vijeće. The council has 28 members, including a council speaker, two deputies, and a secretary. Councilors are elected by the municipality in numbers roughly proportional to their population.[65] The City Statute requires the city council to include at least six councillors from each constituent people and at least two from the ranks of Others.

Sarajevo's Municipalities are further split into "local communities" (Bosnian, Mjesne zajednice). Local communities have a small role in city government and are intended as a way for ordinary citizens to get involved in city government. They are based on key neighborhoods in the city.

Economy

Main article: Economy of Sarajevo

Sarajevo's large manufacturing, administrative, and tourism sectors make it the strongest economic region of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Indeed, Sarajevo Canton generates almost 25% of the country's GDP.[66] After years of war, Sarajevo's economy saw reconstruction and rehabilitation programs.[67] The Central Bank of Bosnia and Herzegovina opened in Sarajevo in 1997 and the Sarajevo Stock Exchange began trading in 2002.

While Sarajevo had a large industrial base during its communist period, only a few pre-existing businesses have successfully adapted to the market economy. Sarajevo industries now include tobacco products, furniture, hosiery, automobiles, and communication equipment.[38] Companies based in Sarajevo include BH Telecom, Bosnalijek, Energopetrol, Sarajevo Tobacco Factory, and Sarajevska pivara (Sarajevo Brewery).

In 2019, the total export for the Sarajevo Canton was worth about 1,427,496,000 KM. Most of Sarajevo's exports (20.55%) head to Germany, with Serbia and Croatia following behind at 12% respectively. The largest amount of imported goods come from Croatia, at 20.95%. With a worth of total import at about 4,872,213,000 KM, the total import is almost 3.4 times the total export.[68]

In 1981, Sarajevo's GDP per capita was 133% of the Yugoslav average.[69] Gross pay in Sarajevo in 2019 was KM 1,741 or €889, while net salary was KM 1,200 or €613.[68]

Tourism and recreation

 
Trebević cable car taking visitors to mount Trebević from the city center.

Sarajevo has a wide tourist industry and a fast expanding service sector thanks to the strong annual growth in tourist arrivals. Sarajevo also benefits from being both a summer and winter destination with continuity in its tourism throughout the year. The travel guide series, Lonely Planet named Sarajevo as the 43rd best city in the world,[14] and in December 2009, listed Sarajevo as one of the top ten cities to visit in 2010.[15]

In 2019, 733,259 tourists visited Sarajevo, giving 1,667,545 overnight stays, which was 20% more than in 2018.[68][70]

Sports-related tourism uses the legacy facilities of the 1984 Winter Olympics, especially the skiing facilities on the nearby mountains of Bjelašnica, Igman, Jahorina, Trebević, and Treskavica. Sarajevo's 600 years of history, influenced by both Western and Eastern empires, makes it a tourist attraction with splendid variations. Sarajevo has hosted travellers for centuries, because it was an important trading center during the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires and because it was a natural stop for many routes between East and West. Examples of popular destinations in Sarajevo include the Vrelo Bosne park, the Sarajevo cathedral, and the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque. Tourism in Sarajevo is chiefly focused on historical, religious, cultural sites and winter sports.

There are many parks throughout the city and on the outskirts. A popular activity among locals is street chess, usually played at Trg Oslobođenja - Alija Izetbegović. Veliki Park is the largest green area in the center of Sarajevo. It is nestled between Titova, Koševo, Džidžikovac, Tina Ujevića and Trampina Streets and in the lower part, there is a monument dedicated to the Children of Sarajevo. Hastahana is a popular place to relax in the Austro-Hungarian neighborhood of Marijin Dvor.[71] Goat's Bridge, locally known as Kozija Ćuprija, in the Miljacka Canyon is also a popular park destination along the Dariva walkway and river Miljacka.[72][73] On 24 December 2012, a park hosting two brass sculptures resembling two mourning mothers was dedicated as the Friendship Park, commemorating over 45 years of friendship between Sarajevo and Baku.

Sarajevo is also famous for its city lookouts; including an observation deck on Avaz Twist Tower, Park Prinčeva restaurant, Vidikovac lookout (Mt. Trebević), Zmajevac lookout and Yellow/White fortresses lookouts (in Vratnik) as well as numerous other rooftops throughout the city (i.e. Alta Shopping Center, BBI Centar, Hotel Hecco Deluxe). A symbol of Sarajevo is the Trebević cable car which was reconstructed in 2018, also it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city taking visitors from the city center to Mount Trebević.

There is also a UNESCO tentative monument, the Old Jewish Cemetery, almost 500 years old site that is the second-largest Jewish sepulchral complex in Europe, the one in Prague being the largest. It is also one of the most significant memorial complexes in the world. It represents the eternal proof of coexistence of two or more different confessions under different administrations and rules, and the proof of mutual respect and tolerance.[74]

  • Parks, rivers and public spaces in Sarajevo
  •  

    Great Park (Veliki Park).

  •  

    Koševo Park.

  •  

    Vilsonovo Šetalište (Wilson's Promenade) along the Miljacka.

  •  

    Great Lane (Velika aleja), Ilidža.

  •  

    The spring of the Bosna river is in Sarajevo.

Demographics

Main article: Demographics of Sarajevo
Historical population
YearPop.±%
166080,000—    
185121,102−73.6%
188526,377+25.0%
189537,713+43.0%
191051,919+37.7%
192166,317+27.7%
193178,173+17.9%
1953135,657+73.5%
1961213,092+57.1%
1971359,448+68.7%
1981379,608+5.6%
1991492,682+29.8%
2013413,593−16.1%
2019419,957+1.5%
Population size may be affected by changes in administrative divisions. All figures after 1953 represent the urban Sarajevo area which consists of six urban municipalities, while the metro population including 8 additional ones rises to 533,136 in 1981, 621,421 in 1991, 545,694 in 2013 and 555,210 in 2019.
Source: [75]
 
Ethnic structure of Sarajevo by settlements, 1991.
 
Ethnic structure of Sarajevo by settlements, 2013.

Thanks to steady but constant and stable growth after the war, today's built-up area that includes not only previously mentioned urban municipalities but the urban part of Hadžići that is uninterruptedly connected to Ilidža, the westernmost part of the Sarajevo urban settlement, is inhabited by more than 419,000 people, while the metro area including 8 additional municipalities, 14 in total goes up to 555,210 inhabitants.[76] It is noticeable that the fastest-growing municipalities are Novi Grad, one of the main ones and the most inhabited one where the population has increased by almost 4,000 people or 2.95% since the 2013 census, and Ilidža that has recorded an increase of almost 7% since 2013.[68]

In June 2016, the final results of the 2013 census were published. According to the census, the population of the Sarajevo Canton was 413,593, with 55,181 residents in Centar, 118,553 in Novi Grad, 64,814 in Novo Sarajevo and 36,976 in Stari Grad.[77]

The last official Yugoslav census took place in 1991 and recorded 527,049 people living in the city of Sarajevo (ten municipalities). In the settlement of Sarajevo proper, there were 454,319 inhabitants.[78][full citation needed] The war displaced hundreds of thousands of people, a large majority of whom have not returned.

The war changed the ethnic and religious profile of the city. It had long been a multicultural city,[79] and often went by the nickname of "Europe's Jerusalem".[1] At the time of the 1991 census, 49.2 per cent of the city's population of 527,049 were Bosniaks, 29.8 percent Serbs, 10.7 percent Yugoslavs, 6.6 percent Croats and 3.6 percent other ethnicities (Jews, Romas, etc.).

According to academic Fran Markowitz, there are a number of "administrative apparatuses and public pressures that push people who might prefer to identify as flexible, multiply constituted hybrids or with one of the now unnamed minority groups into one of the three Bosniac-Croat-Serb constituent nations".[80] These include respondents being encouraged by census interviewers to identity as belonging to one of the three constituent peoples.[81] Her analysis of marriage registration data shows, for instance, that 67 percent of people marrying in 2003 identified as Bosniak or Muslim, which is significantly lower than the 79.6 percent census figure from 2002 (unlike the census, where people respond to an interviewer, applicants to the marriage registry fill in the form themselves).

Ethnic composition of Sarajevo city proper, by municipalities, 2013 census
Municipality Total Bosniaks Serbs Croats Others
Centar 55,181 41,702 (75.57%) 2,186 (3.96%) 3,333 (6.04%) 7,960 (14.42%)
Novi Grad 118,553 99,773 (84.16%) 4,367 (3.68%) 4,947 (4.17%) 9,466 (7.98%)
Novo Sarajevo 64,814 48,188 (74.35%) 3,402 (5.25%) 4,639 (7.16%) 8,585 (13.24%)
Stari Grad 36,976 32,794 (88.69%) 467 (1.3%) 685 (1.85%) 3,030 (8.19%)
Total 275,524 222,457 (80.74%) 10,422 (3.78%) 13,604 (4.94%) 29,041 (10.54%)

Transportation

Roads and highways

Sarajevo's location in a valley between mountains makes it a compact city. Narrow city streets and a lack of parking areas restrict automobile traffic but allow better pedestrian and cyclist mobility. The two main roads are Titova Ulica (Street of Marshal Tito) and the east–west Zmaj od Bosne (Dragon of Bosnia) highway (E761). Located roughly at the center of the country, Sarajevo is Bosnia's main intersection. The city is connected to all the other major cities by highway or national road like Zenica, Banja Luka, Tuzla, Mostar, Goražde and Foča.

Tourists from Central Europe and elsewhere visiting Dalmatia driving via Budapest through Sarajevo also contribute to the traffic congestion in and around Sarajevo. The trans-European highway, Corridor Vc, runs through Sarajevo connecting it to Budapest in the north, and Ploče at the Adriatic sea in the south.[82] The highway is being built by the government and should cost 3.5 billion Euro. Up until March 2012, the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina invested around 600 million Euro in the A1. In 2014, the sections Sarajevo-Zenica and Sarajevo-Tarčin were completed including the Sarajevo Beltway ring road.

Tram, bus and trolleybus

 
MAN Centrotrans bus.

Sarajevo's electric tramways, in operation since 1884 and electrified since 1895, are the oldest form of public transportation in the city.[83] Sarajevo had the first full-time (dawn to dusk) tram line in Europe, and the second in the world.[11] Opened on New Year's Day in 1885, it was the testing line for the tram in Vienna and the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and operated by horses. Originally built to 760 mm (2 ft 5+15⁄16 in) Bosnian gauge, the present system in 1960 was upgraded to 1,435 mm (4 ft 8+1⁄2 in) standard gauge. The trams played a pivotal role in the growth of the city in the 20th century.

There are seven tramway lines supplemented by five trolleybus lines and numerous bus routes. The main railroad station in Sarajevo is in the north-central area of the city. From there, the tracks head west before branching off in different directions, including to industrial zones in the city. Sarajevo is undergoing a major infrastructure renewal; many highways and streets are being repaved, the tram system is undergoing modernization, and new bridges and roads are under construction.

Future metro plans

To solve traffic congestion in the city, Sarajevo-based architect Muzafer Osmanagić proposed a study called "Eco Energy 2010–2015", proposing a subway system underneath the bed of the river Miljacka. The first line of Metro Sarajevo would connect Baščaršija with Otoka. This line would cost some 150 million KM and be financed by the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development.[84]

Railway

Sarajevo has daily international connections which twice a day connect the city with Zagreb and Ploče. There are also connections between Sarajevo and all major cities within Bosnia and Herzegovina. Once, the East Bosnian railway connected Sarajevo to Belgrade.

Cable car (Mt. Trebević)

Trebević Cable Car, Sarajevo's key landmark during the 1984 Winter Olympics, was rebuilt by JKP GRAS Sarajevo and Sarajevo Canton as one of the new transportation systems in 2017 and it reopened on 6 April 2018 at 11:00 AM. The cable car runs from Sarajevo at Bistrik station to the slopes of Trebević at Vidikovac station.[85]

Airport

Sarajevo International Airport (IATA: SJJ), also called Butmir, is just a few kilometers southwest of the city and was voted Best European Airport With Under 1,000,000 Passengers at the 15th Annual ACI-Europe in Munich in 2005.

The first regular flights to Sarajevo using an airfield in the suburb of Butmir begin in 1930 when the domestic airliner Aeroput opened a regular route linking Belgrade to Podgorica through Sarajevo.[86] Later, Aeroput opened a route which linked Sarajevo with Split, Rijeka and Dubrovnik, and in 1938, the first international flights were introduced when Aeroput extended the route Dubrovnik – Sarajevo – Zagreb to Vienna, Brno and Prague.[86][87] The airfield in Butmir remained in use all the way until 1969. The need for a new airport in Sarajevo, with an asphalt-concrete runway, was acknowledged in the mid-1960s when JAT, the Yugoslav national carrier at that time, began acquiring jet planes. The construction of the airport began in 1966 at its present location, not far from the old one.[citation needed]

Sarajevo Airport opened on 2 June 1969 for domestic traffic. In 1970, Frankfurt became the first international destination served. Most of the time the airport was a 'feeder' airport where passengers embarked for flights to Zagreb and Belgrade on their way to international destinations. Over time, the traffic volume steadily grew from 70,000 to 600,000 passengers a year.[citation needed] Later, during the Bosnian War, the airport was used for UN flights and humanitarian relief. Since the Dayton Agreement in 1995, the airport retook its role as the main air gate to Bosnia and Herzegovina.

In 2017, 957,971 passengers travelled through the airport, which was 61,4% of the total airport traffic in Bosnia and Herzegovina.[88][89]

Plans for extension of the passenger terminal, together with upgrading and expanding the taxiway and apron, started in the fall of 2012. The existing terminal was expanded by approximately 7,000 m2 (75,347 sq ft).[90] The upgraded airport was directly linked to the commercial retail center Sarajevo Airport Center, making it easier for tourists and travellers to spend their time before flight boarding shopping and enjoying the many amenities that are offered.[91] Between 2015 and 2018, the airport was upgraded for more than 25 million euros.

International relations

See also: List of twin towns and sister cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Twin towns – sister cities

Sarajevo is twinned with:[92]

Friendship

Sarajevo is befriended with:[92][94][95]

Communications and media

Main article: Communications and media in Sarajevo
 
Observation deck top of Avaz Twist Tower.

As the largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Sarajevo is the main center of the country's media. Most of the communications and media infrastructure was destroyed during the war but reconstruction monitored by the Office of the High Representative has helped to modernize the industry as a whole.[96] For example, the Internet was first made available to the city in 1995.[97]

Oslobođenje (Liberation), founded in 1943, is Sarajevo's longest-running continuously circulating newspaper and the only one to survive the war. However, this long-running and trusted newspaper has fallen behind Dnevni avaz (Daily Voice), founded in 1995, and Jutarnje Novine (Morning News) in circulation in Sarajevo.[98] Other local periodicals include the Croatian newspaper Hrvatska riječ and the Bosnian magazine Start, as well as weekly newspapers Slobodna Bosna (Free Bosnia) and BH Dani (BH Days). Novi Plamen, a monthly magazine, is the most left-wing publication.

The Radio and Television of Bosnia and Herzegovina (BHRT) is Sarajevo's public television station and was created in 1945 under the umbrella of the Yugoslav Radio Television (JRT). It had its first television program aired in 1961, while continuous programming started in 1969. It is one of three main TV stations in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Other stations based in the city include Hayat TV, O Kanal, OBN, TV Kantona Sarajevo and TV Alfa.

The headquarters of Al Jazeera Balkans is also in Sarajevo, with a broadcasting studio at the top of the BBI Centar. The news channel covers Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Croatia and Montenegro and the surrounding Balkan states.[99]

Many small independent radio stations exist, including established stations such as Radio M, RSG Radio (Radio Old Town), Studentski eFM Radio,[100] Radio 202 and Radio BIR.[101] Radio Free Europe, as well as several American and Western European stations are available.

Education

Higher education

 
Rectorate and the Faculty of Law, University of Sarajevo.

Higher education has a long and rich tradition in Sarajevo. The first institution that can be classified as a tertiary educational institution was a school of Sufi philosophy established by Gazi Husrev-beg in 1537; numerous other religious schools have been established over time. In 1887, under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, a Sharia Law School began a five-year program.[102] In the 1940s, the University of Sarajevo became the city's first secular higher education institute, effectively building upon the foundations established by the Saraybosna Hanıka in 1537. In the 1950s, post-bachelor graduate degrees became available.[103] Severely damaged during the war, it was recently rebuilt in partnership with more than 40 other universities.

There are also several universities in Sarajevo, including:

Primary and secondary education

As of 2005, there are 46 elementary schools (Grades 1–9) and 33 high schools (Grades 10–13) in Sarajevo, including three schools for children with special needs.[104]

There are also several international schools in Sarajevo, catering to the expatriate community; some of which are Sarajevo International School and the French International School[105] of Sarajevo, established in 1998.

Further information: SBS Sarajevo Business School

Culture

Main article: Culture of Sarajevo
 
The National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina houses many important historical items from Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Sarajevo has been home to many different religions for centuries, giving the city a range of diverse cultures. In the time of Ottoman occupation of Bosnia, Muslims, Orthodox Christians, Roman Catholics, and Sephardi Jews all shared the city while maintaining distinctive identities. They were joined during the brief occupation by Austria-Hungary by a smaller number of Germans, Hungarians, Slovaks, Czechs and Ashkenazi Jews. By 1909, about 50% of the city's inhabitants were Muslim, 25% were Catholic, 15% were Orthodox, and 10% were Jewish.[106]

Historically, Sarajevo has been home to several prominent Bosnian poets, scholars, philosophers and writers. To list only a very few; Nobel Prize-winner Vladimir Prelog is from the city, as are the writer Zlatko Topčić and the poet Abdulah Sidran. Nobel Prize-winner Ivo Andrić attended high school in Sarajevo for two years. Academy Award-winning director Danis Tanović lives in the city.

The Sarajevo National Theatre is the oldest professional theater in Bosnia and Herzegovina, having been established in 1921.

 
A panoramic view of the ruined castle of Bijela Tabija "White Bastion" in the very east of Sarajevo.

Museums

 
Copies of the Sarajevo Haggadah.

Sarajevo is rich in museums, including the Museum of Sarajevo, the Ars Aevi Museum of Contemporary Art, Historical Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, The Museum of Literature and Theatre Arts of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina (established in 1888) home to the Sarajevo Haggadah,[107] an illuminated manuscript and the oldest Sephardic Jewish document in the world[108] issued in Barcelona around 1350, containing the traditional Jewish Haggadah, is on permanent display at the museum. It is the only remaining illustrated Sephardic Haggadah in the world.[109] The National Museum also hosts year-round exhibitions pertaining to local, regional and international culture and history, and exhibits over 5,000 artefacts from Bosnia's history.

The Alija Izetbegović Museum was opened on 19 October 2007 and is in the old town fort, more specifically in the Vratnik Kapija towers Ploča and Širokac. The museum is a commemoration of the influence and body of work of Alija Izetbegović, the first president of the Presidency of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Sarajevo is also home to the War Childhood Museum, an independent non-for-profit museum containing personal belongings from the war and showing stories behind them. In addition, in 2018, the museum won the Council of Europe Museum Prize award for best museum.[110]

The city also hosts the Sarajevo National Theatre, established in 1921, and the Sarajevo Youth Theatre. Some other cultural institutions include the Center for Sarajevo Culture, Sarajevo City Library, National Gallery of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and the Bosniak Institute, a privately owned library and art collection focusing on Bosniak history.

Demolitions associated with the war, as well as reconstruction, destroyed several institutions and cultural or religious symbols including the Gazi Husrev-beg Library, the national library, the Sarajevo Oriental Institute, and a museum dedicated to the 1984 Winter Olympics. Consequently, the different levels of government established strong cultural protection laws and institutions.[111] Bodies charged with cultural preservation in Sarajevo include the Institute for the Protection of the Cultural, Historical and Natural Heritage of Bosnia and Herzegovina (and their Sarajevo Canton counterpart), and the Bosnia and Herzegovina Commission to Preserve National Monuments.

Music

See also: List of Bosnia and Herzegovina patriotic songs
 
Bijelo Dugme originated in Sarajevo; widely considered to have been the most popular band ever to exist in the former Yugoslavia and one of the most important acts of the Yugoslav rock scene. Pictured are Mladen Vojičić Tifa (left) and Goran Bregović (right).
 
Vedran Smailović playing a cello on top of the ruins of the National library in 1992.

Sarajevo is and has historically been one of the most important musical enclaves in the region. The Sarajevo school of pop rock developed in the city between 1961 and 1991. This type of music began with bands like Indexi, Kodeksi, and singer-songwriter Kemal Monteno. It continued into the 1980s, with bands such as Plavi orkestar, Crvena jabuka, and Divlje jagode, by most accounts, pioneering the regional rock and roll movement. Sarajevo was also the home and birthplace of arguably the most popular and influential Yugoslav rock band of all time, Bijelo Dugme, somewhat of a Bosnian parallel to the Rolling Stones, in both popularity and influence.

Sarajevo was also the home of a very notable post-punk urban subculture known as the New Primitives, which began during the early 1980s with the Baglama Band which was banned shortly after its first LP and was brought into the mainstream through bands such as Zabranjeno Pušenje and Elvis J. Kurtović & His Meteors, as well as the Top lista nadrealista radio, and later television show. Other notable bands considered to be part of this subculture are Bombaj Štampa. Besides and separately from the New Primitives, Sarajevo is the hometown to one of the most significant ex-Yugoslavian alternative industrial-noise bands, SCH.

Perhaps more importantly, Sarajevo in the late 19th and throughout the 20th century was home to a burgeoning and large center of Sevdalinka record-making and contributed greatly to bringing this historical genre of music to the mainstream, which had for many centuries been a staple of Bosnian culture. Songwriters and musicians such as Himzo Polovina, Safet Isović, Zaim Imamović, Zehra Deović, Halid Bešlić, Hanka Paldum, Nada Mamula, Meho Puzić and many more composed and wrote some of their most important pieces in the city.

Sarajevo also greatly influenced the pop scene of Yugoslavia with musicians like Zdravko Čolić, Kemal Monteno, Dino Merlin, Seid Memić Vajta, Hari Mata Hari, Mladen Vojičić Tifa, Željko Bebek and many more.

Many newer Sarajevo-based bands have also found a name and established themselves in Sarajevo, such as Regina who also had two albums out in Yugoslavia and Letu Štuke, who actually formed their band in Yugoslavia with the famous Bosnian-American writer Aleksandar Hemon and got their real breakthrough later in the 2000s. Sarajevo is now home to an important and eclectic mix of new bands and independent musicians, which continue to thrive with the ever-increasing number of festivals, creative showcases and concerts around the country. The city is also home to the region's largest jazz festival, the Jazz Fest Sarajevo.

American heavy metal band Savatage, released a song entitled "Christmas Eve (Sarajevo 12/24)" on their 1995 album Dead Winter Dead, which was about a cello player playing a forgotten Christmas carol in war-torn Sarajevo. The song was later re-released by the same band under the name Trans-Siberian Orchestra on their 1996 debut album Christmas Eve and Other Stories, which the song gave them instant success.

Festivals

See also: List of festivals in Sarajevo
 
Sarajevo Film Festival is held annually since 1995 at the National Theatre.

Sarajevo is internationally renowned for its eclectic and diverse selection of over 50 annual festivals. The Sarajevo Film Festival was established in 1995 during the Bosnian War and has become the premier and largest film festival in Southeast Europe.[112] It has been hosted at the National Theater, with screenings at the Open-air theater Metalac and the Bosnian Cultural Center, all in downtown Sarajevo. The MESS International Festival is an experimental theatre festival and the oldest living theatre festival in the Balkans.[113] The annual Sarajevo Youth Film Festival showcases feature, animated and short films from around the world and is the premier student film festival in the Balkans.[114] The Sarajevo Winter Festival, Jazz Fest Sarajevo and Sarajevo International Music Festival are well-known, as is the Baščaršija Nights festival, a month-long showcase of local culture, music, and dance.[citation needed]

The first incarnation of the Sarajevo Film Festival was hosted in still-warring Sarajevo in 1995, and has now progressed into being the biggest and most significant festival in Southeast Europe.[112] A talent campus is also held during the duration of the festival, with lecturers speaking on behalf of world cinematography and holding workshops for film students from across Southeast Europe.[115]

The Jazz Fest Sarajevo is the region's largest and most diverse of its kind. The festival takes place at the Bosnian Cultural Center (aka "Main Stage"), just down the street from the SFF, at the Sarajevo Youth Stage Theater (aka "Strange Fruits Stage"), at the Dom Vojske Federacije (aka "Solo Stage"), and at the CDA (aka "Groove Stage").

Sports

 
Bosnian football player Edin Džeko was born in Sarajevo. He is the all-time leading goalscorer of the Bosnia and Herzegovina national football team.[116][117]
 
Koševo City Stadium, home to FK Sarajevo, is the largest stadium in Bosnia and Herzegovina.[118]
 
Damir Džumhur, a Sarajevo born multi–Grand Slam tennis player.
 
Mirza Delibašić Hall, home venue of past European champion KK Bosna Royal.

Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics. Yugoslavia won one medal, a silver in men's giant slalom awarded to Jure Franko.[119] Many of the Olympic facilities survived the war or were reconstructed, including the Zetra Olympic Hall and Asim Ferhatović Stadium. In an attempt to bring back some of Sarajevo's Olympic glory,[120] the original Olympic luge and bobsled tracks are being repaired, due to the efforts of both the Olympic Committee of Bosnia and Herzegovina[121] and local sports enthusiasts.[122] After co-hosting the Southeast Europe Friendship games, Sarajevo was awarded the 2009 Special Olympic winter games,[123] but cancelled these plans.[124][125] The ice arena for the 1984 Olympics, Zetra Stadium, was used during the war as a temporary hospital and, later, for housing NATO troops of the IFOR.

In 2011, Sarajevo was the host city of the 51st World Military Skiing Championship with over 350 participants from 23 different nations. This was the first international event of such standing since the 1984 Olympics.[126]Football (soccer) is popular in Sarajevo; the city hosts FK Sarajevo and FK Željezničar, which both compete in European and international cups and tournaments and have a very large trophy cabinet in the former Yugoslavia as well as independent Bosnia and Herzegovina. Other notable soccer clubs are FK Olimpik, SAŠK and Slavija.

One of only three stadiums in Bosnia and Herzegovina that has the UEFA category 3 is the Grbavica Stadium, the home stadium of FK Željezničar.

Another popular sport is basketball; the basketball club KK Bosna Royal won the European Championship in 1979 as well as many Yugoslav and Bosnian national championships, making it one of the greatest basketball clubs in the former Yugoslavia. The chess club, Bosna Sarajevo, has been a championship team since the 1980s and is the third-ranked chess club in Europe, having won four consecutive European championships in the nineties. Handball club RK Bosna also competes in the European Champions League and is considered one of the most well organised handball clubs in Southeast Europe with a very large fan base and excellent national, as well as international results. Sarajevo often holds international events and competitions in sports such as tennis and kickboxing.

The popularity of tennis has been picking up in recent years. Since 2003, BH Telecom Indoors is an annual tennis tournament in Sarajevo.

Since 2007, the Sarajevo Half Marathon has been organized every year in late September. Giro di Sarajevo is also a run in the city with over 2,200 cyclists taking part in 2015.[127]

In February 2019, Sarajevo and East Sarajevo hosted the European Youth Olympic Winter Festival (EYOWF).

See also

Notes

  1. ^ Sarajevo metropolitan area includes Sarajevo Canton with 413,593 inhabitants, East Sarajevo with 61,516 inhabitants as well as the municipalities of Breza (14,564), Kiseljak (21,919), Kreševo (5,638) and Visoko (41,352).

References

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Bibliography

See also: Bibliography of the history of Sarajevo
  • Bollens, Scott A. (2007). Cities, Nationalism, and Democratization. Abingdon: Routledge. ISBN 978-0-415-41947-5.
  • Donia, Robert J. Sarajevo: A Biography 4 June 2018 at the Wayback Machine. Ann Arbor, University of Michigan Press, (2006).
  • Gumz, Jonathan (1998). "German Counterinsurgency Policy in Independent Croatia, 1941–1944". The Historian. 61 (1): 33–50. doi:10.1111/j.1540-6563.1998.tb01422.x.
  • Halligan, Benjamin. (2010). "Idylls of Socialism: The Sarajevo Documentary School and the Problem of the Bosnian Sub-proletariat". Studies in Eastern European Cinema (Autumn 2010). <>
  • Tanzer, Kim; Longoria, Rafael (11 April 2007). The Green Braid: Towards an Architecture of Ecology, Economy and Equity. Routledge. ISBN 978-1-134-12058-1.
  • Maniscalco, Fabio (1997). Sarajevo. Itinerari artistici perduti (Sarajevo. Artistic Itineraries Lost). Naples: Guida
  • Markowitz, Fran (2007). "Census and sensibilities in Sarajevo". Comparative Studies in Society and History. 49 (1): 40–73. doi:10.1017/S0010417507000400. S2CID 143939745.
  • Markowitz, Fran (2010). Sarajevo: A Bosnian Kaleidoscope. Urbana, IL: University of Illinois Press. ISBN 978-0-252-07713-5.
  • Prstojević, Miroslav (1992). Zaboravljeno Sarajevo (Forgotten Sarajevo). Sarajevo: Ideja
  • Valerijan, Žujo; Imamović, Mustafa; Ćurovac, Muhamed; Kurto, Nedzad; et al. (1997). Ćurovac, Muhamed (ed.). Sarajevo. Svjetlost. OCLC 443678670.
  • My Life in Fire (a non-fiction story of a child in a Sarajevo war)
  • Mehmedinović, Semezdin (1998). Sarajevo Blues. San Francisco: City Lights.

External links

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January 09, 2023
sarajevo, other, uses, disambiguation, sarr, cyrillic, Сарајево, pronounced, sǎrajeʋo, listen, names, other, languages, capital, largest, city, bosnia, herzegovina, with, population, administrative, limits, metropolitan, area, including, canton, east, nearby, . For other uses see Sarajevo disambiguation Sarajevo ˌ s aer e ˈ j eɪ v oʊ SARR e YAY voh Cyrillic Saraјevo pronounced sǎrajeʋo listen see names in other languages is the capital 5 and largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina with a population of 275 524 in its administrative limits 6 4 The Sarajevo metropolitan area including Sarajevo Canton East Sarajevo and nearby municipalities is home to 555 210 inhabitants a 4 Located within the greater Sarajevo valley of Bosnia it is surrounded by the Dinaric Alps and situated along the Miljacka River in the heart of the Balkans a region of Southern Europe Sarajevo SaraјevoCapital cityGrad SarajevoGrad SaraјevoCity of SarajevoClockwise from top Sarajevo panorama Cathedral Church of the Nativity of the Theotokos Vijecnica Sarajevo cable car Holiday Inn and the UNITIC World Trade Towers Sebilj and the Sacred Heart Cathedral FlagCoat of armsNickname s Jerusalem of Europe 1 Jerusalem of the Balkans 2 Seher Rajvosa 3 SarajevoLocation within Bosnia and HerzegovinaShow map of Bosnia and HerzegovinaSarajevoLocation within EuropeShow map of BalkansSarajevoSarajevo Europe Show map of EuropeCoordinates 43 51 23 N 18 24 47 E 43 85639 N 18 41306 E 43 85639 18 41306 Coordinates 43 51 23 N 18 24 47 E 43 85639 N 18 41306 E 43 85639 18 41306Country Bosnia and HerzegovinaEntityFederation of Bosnia and HerzegovinaCanton Sarajevo CantonMunicipalities CentarNovi GradNovo SarajevoStari Grad4Founded1461Government BodySarajevo City Council MayorBenjamina Karic SDP BiH Area City proper141 5 km2 54 6 sq mi Urban419 16 km2 161 84 sq mi Metro3 350 km2 1 290 sq mi Elevation550 m 1 800 ft Population 2013 census 4 City proper275 524 Density1 900 km2 5 000 sq mi Urban419 957 Urban density1 000 km2 2 600 sq mi Metro555 210 Metro density170 km2 430 sq mi DemonymSarajevan English Sarajlija Bosnian Time zoneUTC 1 CET Summer DST UTC 2 CEST Postal code71000Area code 387 33Websitesarajevo wbr baSarajevo is the political financial social and cultural center of Bosnia and Herzegovina and a prominent center of culture in the Balkans It exerts region wide influence in entertainment media fashion and the arts 7 8 Due to its long history of religious and cultural diversity Sarajevo is sometimes called the Jerusalem of Europe 1 or Jerusalem of the Balkans 2 It is one of a few major European cities to have a mosque Catholic church Eastern Orthodox church and synagogue within the same neighborhood 9 Although there is evidence of human settlement in the area since prehistoric times the modern city arose in the 15th century as an Ottoman stronghold when the latter empire extended into Europe 10 Sarajevo has gained international renown several times throughout its history In 1885 it was the first city in Europe and the second city in the world to have a full time electric tram network running through the city following San Francisco California of the United States 11 In 1914 it was the site of the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand by a local Young Bosnia activist Gavrilo Princip a murder that sparked World War I This resulted in the end of Austro Hungarian rule in Bosnia and the creation of the multicultural Kingdom of Yugoslavia in the Balkan region Later after World War II the area came under control of the communist Socialist Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina within the republic also known as Second Yugoslavia As Sarajevo was designated as this larger republic s capital its population and businesses expanded rapidly with investment in infrastructure and economic development In 1984 the socialist republic hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics which marked a prosperous era for the city However after the start of the Yugoslav Wars the city suffered the longest siege of a capital city in the history of modern warfare for a total of 1 425 days from April 1992 to February 1996 This was during the Bosnian War and the breakup of Yugoslavia under nationalist ethnic passions that tore families apart and resulted in genocide and massacres 12 With continued post war reconstruction in the aftermath Sarajevo is the fastest growing city in Bosnia and Herzegovina 13 The travel guide series Lonely Planet ranked Sarajevo as the 43rd best city in the world 14 In December 2009 it recommended Sarajevo as one of the top ten cities to visit in 2010 15 In 2011 Sarajevo was nominated as the 2014 European Capital of Culture It was selected to host the European Youth Olympic Festival 16 17 In addition in October 2019 Sarajevo was designated as a UNESCO Creative City for having placed culture at the center of its development strategies 18 19 It is also ranked as one of the world s eighteen Cities of Film citation needed Contents 1 Etymology 2 Environment 2 1 Geography 2 2 Cityscape 2 3 Climate 2 4 Air quality 3 History 3 1 Ancient times 3 2 Middle Ages 3 3 Ottoman era 3 4 Austria Hungary 3 5 Yugoslavia 3 6 Bosnian War 3 7 Present 4 Administration 4 1 Largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina 4 2 Municipalities and city government 5 Economy 6 Tourism and recreation 7 Demographics 8 Transportation 8 1 Roads and highways 8 2 Tram bus and trolleybus 8 3 Future metro plans 8 4 Railway 8 5 Cable car Mt Trebevic 8 6 Airport 9 International relations 9 1 Twin towns sister cities 9 2 Friendship 10 Communications and media 11 Education 11 1 Higher education 11 2 Primary and secondary education 12 Culture 12 1 Museums 12 2 Music 12 3 Festivals 12 4 Sports 13 See also 14 Notes 15 References 15 1 Bibliography 16 External linksEtymology Edit Sarajevo at twilight The name Sarajevo derives from the Turkish noun saray meaning palace or mansion from Persian saray سرای of the same meaning Scholars disagree on the origin of the evo attached to the end In Slavic languages the addition of evo may indicate a possessive noun thereby making the name of Sarajevo city of the palace One theory is that the name may have been derived from the Ottoman Turkish term saray ovasi first recorded in 1455 20 meaning the plains around the palace or simply palace plains 21 However in his Dictionary of Turkish Loanwords Abdulah Skaljic maintains that the evo ending is more likely to have come from the widespread Slavic suffix evo used to indicate place names than from the Turkish ending ova 22 The first mention of the name Sarajevo was in a 1507 letter written by Firuz Bey 23 The official name during the 400 years of Ottoman rule was Saraybosna Palace of Bosnia which remains the city s name in Modern Turkish Sarajevo has had many nicknames The earliest is Seher the term Isa Beg Ishakovic used to describe the town he was going to build which is Turkish for city sehir in turn coming from the Persian shahr شهر meaning city As Sarajevo developed numerous nicknames came from comparisons to other cities in the Islamic world i e Damascus of the North and European Jerusalem the latter being the most popular Environment EditGeography Edit Sarajevo topographic map Sarajevo is near the geometric center of the triangular shaped Bosnia and Herzegovina and within the historical region of Bosnia proper It is situated 518 m 1 699 ft above sea level and lies in the Sarajevo valley in the middle of the Dinaric Alps 24 The valley was once an expansive fertile and green space but considerable urban expansion and development took place following World War II The city is surrounded by forested hills and five major mountains The highest of the surrounding peaks is Treskavica at 2 088 m 6 850 ft followed by Bjelasnica mountain at 2 067 m 6 781 ft Jahorina at 1 913 m 6 276 ft Trebevic at 1 627 m 5 338 ft and Igman the shortest at 1 502 m 4 928 ft The last four are also known as the Olympic Mountains of SarajevoWhen the city hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics venues were constructed at these mountains for many winter sports events The city is developed within hilly terrain there are many steeply inclined streets and residences that seem to perch on the hillsides The Miljacka river is one of the city s chief geographic features It flows through the city from east through the center of Sarajevo to the west part of the city where it eventually meets up with the Bosna river Miljacka river is also known as The Sarajevo River Its source Vrelo Miljacke is 2 km 1 2 mi south of the town of Pale 25 at the foothills of Mount Jahorina several kilometers to the east of Sarajevo center The Bosna s source Vrelo Bosne near Ilidza west Sarajevo is another notable natural landmark and a popular destination for Sarajevans and other tourists Several smaller rivers and streams such as Kosevski Potok also run through the city and its vicinity Cityscape Edit View of Sarajevo from a popular Yellow Bastion lookout Sarajevo is close to the center of the triangular shape of Bosnia and Herzegovina in southeastern Europe The Sarajevo city proper consists of four municipalities or in Bosnian and Croatian opcina in Serbian opstina Centar Center Novi Grad New City Novo Sarajevo New Sarajevo and Stari Grad Old City while the Sarajevo metropolitan area Greater Sarajevo area includes these and the neighbouring municipalities of Ilidza Hadzici Vogosca and Ilijas The Metropolitan area was reduced in the 1990s after the war and the Dayton imposed administrative division of the country with several municipalities partitioned along the border of the newly recognised Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina FBiH and Republika Srpska RS creating several new municipalities which together form the city of Istocno Sarajevo in the Republika Srpska Istocna Ilidza Istocno Novo Sarajevo Istocni Stari Grad Lukavica Pale RS section and Trnovo RS section along with the municipality of Sokolac which was not traditionally part of the Sarajevo area and was not partitioned The city has an urban area of 1 041 5 km2 402 1 sq mi Veliki Park Great park is the largest green area in the center of Sarajevo It s nestled between Titova Kosevo Dzidzikovac Tina Ujevica and Trampina Streets and in the lower part there is a monument dedicated to the Children of Sarajevo Climate Edit Autumn in Sarajevo Veliki Park Sarajevo has either a humid continental climate Koppen climate classification Dfb or an oceanic climate Koppen climate classification Cfb depending on if either the 0 C or the 3 C isotherms are used Sarajevo s climate exhibits four seasons and uniformly spread precipitation typical of both Cfb and Dfb climates The proximity of the Adriatic Sea moderates Sarajevo s climate somewhat although the mountains to the south of the city greatly reduce this maritime influence 26 The average yearly temperature is 10 C 50 F with January 0 5 C 31 1 F on average being the coldest month of the year and July 19 7 C 67 5 F on average the warmest The highest recorded temperature was 40 7 C 105 F on 19 August 1946 and on 23 August 2008 41 0 while the lowest recorded temperature was 26 2 C 15 2 F on 25 January 1942 On average Sarajevo has 7 days where the temperature exceeds 32 C 89 6 F and 4 days where the temperature drops below 15 C 5 F per year 27 The city typically experiences mildly cloudy skies with an average yearly cloud cover of 45 The cloudiest month is December 75 average cloud cover while the clearest is August 37 Moderate precipitation occurs fairly consistently throughout the year with an average 75 days of rainfall Suitable climatic conditions have allowed winter sports to flourish in the region as exemplified by the 1984 Winter Olympics that were held in Sarajevo Average winds are 28 48 km h 17 30 mph and the city has 1 769 hours of sunshine Climate data for SarajevoMonth Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec YearRecord high C F 18 2 64 8 21 4 70 5 26 6 79 9 30 2 86 4 33 2 91 8 35 9 96 6 38 4 101 1 40 0 104 0 37 7 99 9 32 2 90 0 24 7 76 5 18 0 64 4 40 0 104 0 Average high C F 3 7 38 7 6 0 42 8 10 9 51 6 15 6 60 1 21 4 70 5 24 5 76 1 27 0 80 6 27 2 81 0 22 0 71 6 17 0 62 6 9 7 49 5 4 2 39 6 15 8 60 4 Daily mean C F 0 2 32 4 1 8 35 2 6 0 42 8 10 2 50 4 15 2 59 4 18 2 64 8 20 3 68 5 20 4 68 7 16 0 60 8 11 7 53 1 5 8 42 4 1 2 34 2 10 6 51 1 Average low C F 3 3 26 1 2 5 27 5 1 1 34 0 4 8 40 6 9 0 48 2 11 9 53 4 13 7 56 7 13 7 56 7 10 0 50 0 6 4 43 5 1 9 35 4 1 8 28 8 5 4 41 7 Record low C F 26 8 16 2 23 4 10 1 26 4 15 5 13 2 8 2 9 0 15 8 3 2 26 2 2 7 27 1 1 0 30 2 4 0 24 8 10 9 12 4 19 3 2 7 22 4 8 3 26 8 16 2 Average precipitation mm inches 68 2 7 64 2 5 70 2 8 77 3 0 72 2 8 90 3 5 72 2 8 66 2 6 91 3 6 86 3 4 85 3 3 86 3 4 928 36 5 Average rainy days 8 10 13 17 17 16 14 13 15 13 12 11 159Average snowy days 10 12 9 2 0 2 0 0 0 0 2 6 12 53Average relative humidity 79 74 68 67 68 70 69 69 75 77 76 81 73Mean monthly sunshine hours 57 1 83 8 125 6 152 3 191 7 207 1 256 3 238 2 186 6 148 8 81 2 40 7 1 769 4Source 1 Pogoda ru net 28 Source 2 NOAA sun 1961 1990 29 A panoramic view of Sarajevo valley from Yellow Bastion Zuta tabija lookout spring 2012 Air quality Edit Air pollution is a major issue in Sarajevo 30 31 According to the 2016 World Health Organization s Ambient Air Pollution Database 32 the annual average PM2 5 concentration in 2010 was estimated to be 30 mg m3 based on PM10 measurement which is 3 times higher than recommended by WHO Air Quality Guidelines 33 for the annual average PM2 5 There are no recent direct long term PM2 5 measurements available in Sarajevo and only estimates can be made from PM10 which is the less health relevant than PM2 5 34 Real time air quality data in the form of PM10 ozone NO2 CO and SO2 by the Federal Hydrometeorological Institute Archived 13 September 2018 at the Wayback Machine 35 History EditMain article History of Sarajevo For a chronological guide see Timeline of Sarajevo See also History of Bosnia and Herzegovina Historical affiliations Ottoman Empire 1461 1878 de facto 1908 de jure Austro Hungarian Empire 1878 de facto 1908 de jure 1918 State of Slovenes Croats and Serbs 1918 Kingdom of Serbs Croats and Slovenes 1918 1929 Kingdom of Yugoslavia 1929 1941 Independent State of Croatia 1941 1945 SFR Yugoslavia 1945 1992 Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina 1992 1998 Bosnia and Herzegovina 1995 present Ancient times Edit Main article Stari Grad Sarajevo Neolithic period Butmir vase One of the earliest findings of settlement in the Sarajevo area is that of the Neolithic Butmir culture The discoveries at Butmir were made on the grounds of the modern day Sarajevo suburb Ilidza in 1893 by Austro Hungarian authorities during the construction of an agricultural school The area s richness in flint was attractive to Neolithic humans and the settlement flourished The settlement developed unique ceramics and pottery designs which characterize the Butmir people as a unique culture as described at the International Congress of Archaeologists and Anthropologists meeting in Sarajevo in 1894 36 The next prominent culture in Sarajevo were the Illyrians The ancient people who considered most of the Western Balkans as their homeland had several key settlements in the region mostly around the river Miljacka and the Sarajevo valley The Illyrians in the Sarajevo region belonged to the Daesitiates the last Illyrian people in Bosnia and Herzegovina to resist Roman occupation Their defeat by the Roman emperor Tiberius in 9 AD marks the start of Roman rule in the region The Romans never built up the region of modern day Bosnia but the Roman colony of Aquae Sulphurae was near the top of present day Ilidza and was the most important settlement of the time 37 After the Romans the Goths settled the area followed by the Slavs in the 7th century 38 Middle Ages Edit See also Sarajevo during the Middle Ages Roman bridge erected 1530 in Ilidza built of remnants of an old Roman settlement During the Middle Ages Sarajevo was part of the Bosnian province of Vrhbosna near the traditional center of the Kingdom of Bosnia Though a city named Vrhbosna existed the exact settlement in Sarajevo at this time is debated Various documents note a place called Tornik in the region most likely in the area of the Marijin Dvor neighborhood By all indications Tornik was a very small marketplace surrounded by a proportionally small village and was not considered very important by Ragusan merchants Other scholars say that Vrhbosna was a major town in the wider area of modern day Sarajevo Papal documents say that in 1238 a cathedral dedicated to Saint Paul was built in the area Disciples of the notable saints Cyril and Methodius stopped in the region founding a church near Vrelo Bosne Whether or not the town was somewhere in the area of modern day Sarajevo the documents attest to its and the region s importance There was also a citadel Hodidjed north east to the Old City dating from around 1263 until it was occupied by the Ottoman Empire in 1429 39 Ottoman era Edit See also Bosnia and Herzegovina cuisine The Sebilj is a pseudo Ottoman style wooden fountain in the centre of Bascarsija square The current structure is an 1891 reconstruction of the original which burnt down in 1852 Sarajevo was founded by the Ottoman Empire in the 1450s upon its conquest of the region with 1461 used as the city s founding date The first Ottoman governor of Bosnia Isa Beg Ishakovic transformed the cluster of villages into a city and state capital by building a number of key structures including a mosque a closed marketplace a public bath a hostel and of course the governor s castle Saray which gave the city its present name The mosque was named Careva Dzamija the Emperor s Mosque in honor of Sultan Mehmed II With the improvements Sarajevo quickly grew into the largest city in the region By the 15th century the settlement was established as a city named Bosna Saraj around the citadel in 1461 Following the expulsion of Jews from Spain at the end of the 15th century and the invitation from the Ottoman Empire to resettle their population Sephardic Jews arrived in Sarajevo which over time would become a leading center of Sephardic culture and the Ladino language Though relatively small in size a Jewish quarter would develop over several blocks in Bascarsija Many local Christians converted to Islam at this time To accommodate the new pilgrims on the road to Mecca in 1541 Gazi Husrev beg s quartermaster Vekil Harrach built a Pilgrim s mosque for which it is still known to this day as the Hadzijska Mosque Under leaders such as the second governor Gazi Husrev beg Sarajevo grew at a rapid rate Husrev beg greatly shaped the physical city as most of what is now the Old Town was built during his reign Sarajevo became known for its large marketplace and numerous mosques which by the middle of the 16th century numbered more than 100 At the peak of the empire Sarajevo was the biggest and most important Ottoman city in the Balkans after Istanbul 40 By 1660 the population of Sarajevo was estimated to be over 80 000 41 By contrast Belgrade in 1683 had 100 000 42 and Zagreb as late as 1851 had 14 000 people As political conditions changed Sarajevo became the site of warfare In 1697 during the Great Turkish War a raid was led by Prince Eugene of Savoy of the Habsburg monarchy against the Ottoman Empire which conquered Sarajevo and left it plague infected and burned to the ground After his men had looted thoroughly they set the city on fire and destroyed nearly all of it in one day Only a handful of neighborhoods some mosques and an Orthodox church were left standing Numerous other fires weakened the city which was later rebuilt but never fully recovered from the destruction By 1807 it had only some 60 000 residents 41 In the 1830s several battles of the Bosnian uprising had taken place around the city These had been led by Husein Gradascevic Today a major city street is named Zmaj od Bosne Dragon of Bosnia in his honor The rebellion failed and for several more decades the Ottoman state remained in control of Bosnia The Ottoman Empire made Sarajevo an important administrative centre by 1850 Bascarsija became the central commercial district and cultural center of the city in the 15th century when Isa Beg Ishakovic founded the town 43 The toponym Bascarsija derives from the Turkish language Gazi Husrev beg Mosque and Sarajevo Clock Tower Mosque courtyard Gazi Husrev beg Library Bascarsija Islamic School Kurumlija Madrasa The Gazi Husrev beg Bazaar Pigeon Square Old Town Austria Hungary Edit Old stone bridge over the Kosevski Potok circa 1880 left later demolished to give away space for a tram station Ali Pasha Mosque right Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria arrives at the city hall on the day of his assassination 28 June 1914 The Latin Bridge was the site of the assassination of Franz Ferdinand Austria Hungary s occupation of Bosnia and Herzegovina came in 1878 as part of the Treaty of Berlin and complete annexation followed in 1908 angering the Serbs Sarajevo was industrialized by Austria Hungary who used the city as a testing area for new inventions such as tramways which were established in 1885 before they were later installed in Vienna Architects and engineers wanting to help rebuild Sarajevo as a modern European capital rushed to the city A fire that burned down a large part of the central city area carsija left more room for redevelopment As a result the city has a unique blend of the remaining Ottoman city market and contemporary western architecture Sarajevo also has some examples of Secession and Pseudo Moorish styles that date from this period The Austro Hungarian period was one of great development for the city as the Western power brought its new acquisition up to the standards of the Victorian age Various factories and other buildings were built at this time 44 and a large number of institutions were both Westernized and modernized For the first time in history Sarajevo s population began writing in Latin script 38 45 For the first time in centuries the city significantly expanded outside its traditional borders Much of the city s contemporary central municipality Centar was constructed during this period Architecture in Sarajevo quickly developed into a wide range of styles and buildings The Sacred Heart Cathedral for example was constructed using elements of neo gothic and Romanesque architecture The National Museum Sarajevo brewery and City Hall were also constructed during this period Additionally Austrian officials made Sarajevo the first city in this part of Europe to have a tramway Although the Bosnia Vilayet de jure remained part of the Ottoman Empire it was de facto governed as an integral part of Austria Hungary with the Ottomans having no say in its day to day governance This lasted until 1908 when the territory was formally annexed and turned into a condominium jointly controlled by both Austrian Cisleithania and Hungarian Transleithania In the event that triggered World War I the Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria was assassinated along with his wife Sophie Duchess of Hohenberg in Sarajevo on 28 June 1914 by Gavrilo Princip a Bosnian and self declared Yugoslav and member of Young Bosnia 46 This was followed by the Anti Serb riots in Sarajevo which resulted in two deaths and destruction of property In the ensuing war however most of the Balkan offensives occurred near Belgrade and Sarajevo largely escaped damage and destruction Following the war Bosnia was annexed into the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and Sarajevo became the capital of the Drina Province Architecture from Austro Hungarian period Sarajevo Main Post office Sarajevo National Theatre design by Karel Parik The Academy of Fine Arts was originally built to serve as an Evangelical Church in 1899 Privredna banka Sarajevo National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzegovina established in 1896 Yugoslavia Edit After World War I and pressure from the Royal Serbian Army alongside rebelling Slavic nations in Austria Hungary Sarajevo became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia Though it held some political significance as the center of first the Bosnian region and then the Drinska Banovina the city was no longer a national capital and saw a decline in global influence 47 During World War II the Kingdom of Yugoslavia s army was overrun by German and Italian forces Following a German bombing campaign Sarajevo was captured on 15 April 1941 by the 16th Motorized infantry Division The Axis powers created the Independent State of Croatia and included Sarajevo in its territory Immediately following the occupation the main Sephardi Jewish synagogue Il Kal Grande was looted burned and destroyed by the Nazis Within a matter of months the centuries old Sephardi and Ashkenazi Jewish communities of Sarajevo comprising the vast majority of Bosnian Jewry would be rounded up in the Old Synagogue Stari hram and deported to their deaths in Croatian concentration camps Roughly 85 of Bosnia s Jewish population would perish at the hands of the Nazis and the Ustase during the Holocaust in the region The Sarajevo Haggadah was the most important artifact which survived this period smuggled out of Sarajevo and saved from the Nazis and Ustase by the chief librarian of the National Museum Dervis Korkut On 12 October 1941 a group of 108 notable Bosniak citizens of Sarajevo signed the Resolution of Sarajevo Muslims by which they condemned the Genocide of Serbs organized by the Ustase made a distinction between the Bosniaks who participated in such persecutions and the rest of the Bosniak population presented information about the persecutions of Bosniaks by Serbs and requested security for all citizens of the country regardless of their identity 48 During the summer of 1941 Ustase militia periodically interned and executed groups of Sarajevo Serbs 49 In August 1941 they arrested about one hundred Serbs suspected of ties to the resistance armies mostly church officials and members of the intelligentsia and executed them or deported them to concentration camps 49 By mid summer 1942 around 20 000 Serbs found refuge in Sarajevo from Ustase terror 50 The city was bombed by the Allies from 1943 to 1944 51 The Yugoslav Partisan movement was represented in the city In the period February May 1945 Maks Luburic set up an Ustase headquarters in a building known as Villa Luburic and used it as a torture and execution place whose 323 victims were identified after the war The resistance was led by Vladimir Peric Valter who died while leading the liberation of the city on 6 April 1945 After the war Sarajevo was the capital of the Socialist Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina within the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia The Republic Government invested heavily in Sarajevo building many new residential blocks in the municipalities of Novi Grad and Novo Sarajevo while simultaneously developing the city s industry and transforming Sarajevo into a modern city Sarajevo grew rapidly as it became an important regional industrial center in Yugoslavia Between the end of the war and the end of Yugoslavia the city grew from a population of 115 000 to more than 600 000 people The Vraca Memorial Park a monument for victims of World War II was dedicated on 25 November the Statehood Day of Bosnia and Herzegovina when the ZAVNOBIH held their first meeting in 1943 52 A crowning moment of Sarajevo s time in Socialist Yugoslavia was the 1984 Winter Olympics Sarajevo beat out Sapporo Japan and Falun Gothenburg Sweden to host the Olympic Games The games were followed by a tourism boom making the 1980s one of the city s most prosperous decades 53 Architecture from Socialist Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina period Health Institute in Sarajevo Iconic Sarajevo Holiday Inn now Hotel Holiday and UNITIC World Trade Towers Eternal flame View west toward parts of Novo Sarajevo Residential buildings in Novi Grad Bosnian War Edit Main article Siege of Sarajevo See also Sniper Alley The Sarajevo Red Line a memorial event of the Siege of Sarajevo s 20th anniversary 11 541 empty chairs symbolized 11 541 victims of the war which were killed during the Siege 54 55 The Bosnian War for independence resulted in large scale destruction and dramatic population shifts during the Siege of Sarajevo between 1992 and 1996 Thousands of Sarajevans lost their lives under the constant bombardment and sniper shooting at civilians by the Serb forces during the siege 56 the longest siege of a capital city in the history of modern warfare 57 Bosnian Serb forces of the Republika Srpska and the Yugoslav People s Army besieged Sarajevo from 5 April 1992 to 29 February 1996 When Bosnia and Herzegovina declared independence from Yugoslavia and achieved United Nations recognition Serbian leaders declared a new Serbian national state Republika Srpska RS which was carved out from the territory of Bosnia and Herzegovina 58 The Army of Republika Srpska encircled Sarajevo with a siege force of 18 000 59 stationed in the surrounding hills from which they assaulted the city with artillery mortars tanks anti aircraft guns heavy machine guns multiple rocket launchers rocket launched aircraft bombs and sniper rifles 59 From 2 May 1992 the Serbs blockaded the city The Bosnian government defence forces inside the besieged city were poorly equipped and unable to break the siege The signing of the Dayton Agreement in Paris ended the 3 1 2 year long Bosnian War During the siege 11 541 people lost their lives including over 1 500 children An additional 56 000 people were wounded including nearly 15 000 children 56 The 1991 census indicates that before the siege the city and its surrounding areas had a population of 525 980 When the siege ended the concrete scars caused by mortar shell explosions left marks that were filled with red resin After the red resin was placed it left floral patterns which led to them being dubbed Sarajevo Roses Division of the territory according to the Dayton Agreement resulted in a mass exodus in early 1996 of some 62 000 Sarajevo Serbs from the city and its suburbs creating today s more monoethnic post war city 60 Present Edit Main article History of modern Sarajevo Various modern buildings now occupy Sarajevo s skyline most significantly the Bosmal City Center BBI Centar Sarajevo City Center all three by architect Sead Golos and the Avaz Twist Tower which at the time of its building was the tallest skyscraper in former Yugoslavia Recent years have seen population growth as well as increases in tourism 61 In 2014 the city saw anti government protests and riots and record rainfall that caused historic flooding Images of modern Sarajevo Bosmal City Center Towers erected 2001 Avaz Twist Tower erected 2008 BBI Centar erected 2009 Sarajevo City Center erected 2014 Sarajevo cable car reopened in 2018 Administration EditLargest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina Edit The Building of the Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina left and Bosnia and Herzegovina s government building right Sarajevo is the capital 62 of the country of Bosnia and Herzegovina and its sub entity the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina as well as of the Sarajevo Canton It is also the de jure capital of another entity Republika Srpska 63 Each of these levels of government has its parliament or council as well as judicial courts in the city All national institutions and foreign embassies are in Sarajevo Sarajevo is home to the Council of Ministers of Bosnia and Herzegovina Parliamentary Assembly of Bosnia and Herzegovina Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina the Constitutional Court of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the operational command of the Armed Forces of Bosnia and Herzegovina 64 Bosnia and Herzegovina s Parliament office in Sarajevo was damaged heavily in the Bosnian War Due to damage the staff and documents were moved to a nearby ground level office to resume work In late 2006 reconstruction work started on Parliament and was finished in 2007 The cost of reconstruction was 80 funded by the Greek Government through the Hellenic Program of Balkans Reconstruction ESOAV and 20 by Bosnia and Herzegovina Municipalities and city government Edit Main articles List of mayors of Sarajevo and Sarajevo City Council The four municipalities of the City of Sarajevo Stari Grad Centar Novo Sarajevo and Novi Grad within the territory of Sarajevo Canton The City of Sarajevo comprises four municipalities Centar Novi Grad Novo Sarajevo and Stari Grad Each operate their own municipal government while united they form one city government with its own constitution The executive branch Bosnian Gradska uprava consists of a mayor with two deputies and a cabinet The legislative branch consists of the City Council or Gradsko vijece The council has 28 members including a council speaker two deputies and a secretary Councilors are elected by the municipality in numbers roughly proportional to their population 65 The City Statute requires the city council to include at least six councillors from each constituent people and at least two from the ranks of Others Sarajevo s Municipalities are further split into local communities Bosnian Mjesne zajednice Local communities have a small role in city government and are intended as a way for ordinary citizens to get involved in city government They are based on key neighborhoods in the city Economy EditMain article Economy of Sarajevo Central Bank of Bosnia and Herzegovina Sarajevo s large manufacturing administrative and tourism sectors make it the strongest economic region of Bosnia and Herzegovina Indeed Sarajevo Canton generates almost 25 of the country s GDP 66 After years of war Sarajevo s economy saw reconstruction and rehabilitation programs 67 The Central Bank of Bosnia and Herzegovina opened in Sarajevo in 1997 and the Sarajevo Stock Exchange began trading in 2002 While Sarajevo had a large industrial base during its communist period only a few pre existing businesses have successfully adapted to the market economy Sarajevo industries now include tobacco products furniture hosiery automobiles and communication equipment 38 Companies based in Sarajevo include BH Telecom Bosnalijek Energopetrol Sarajevo Tobacco Factory and Sarajevska pivara Sarajevo Brewery In 2019 the total export for the Sarajevo Canton was worth about 1 427 496 000 KM Most of Sarajevo s exports 20 55 head to Germany with Serbia and Croatia following behind at 12 respectively The largest amount of imported goods come from Croatia at 20 95 With a worth of total import at about 4 872 213 000 KM the total import is almost 3 4 times the total export 68 In 1981 Sarajevo s GDP per capita was 133 of the Yugoslav average 69 Gross pay in Sarajevo in 2019 was KM 1 741 or 889 while net salary was KM 1 200 or 613 68 Tourism and recreation Edit Trebevic cable car taking visitors to mount Trebevic from the city center Sarajevo Zoo Sarajevo has a wide tourist industry and a fast expanding service sector thanks to the strong annual growth in tourist arrivals Sarajevo also benefits from being both a summer and winter destination with continuity in its tourism throughout the year The travel guide series Lonely Planet named Sarajevo as the 43rd best city in the world 14 and in December 2009 listed Sarajevo as one of the top ten cities to visit in 2010 15 In 2019 733 259 tourists visited Sarajevo giving 1 667 545 overnight stays which was 20 more than in 2018 68 70 Sports related tourism uses the legacy facilities of the 1984 Winter Olympics especially the skiing facilities on the nearby mountains of Bjelasnica Igman Jahorina Trebevic and Treskavica Sarajevo s 600 years of history influenced by both Western and Eastern empires makes it a tourist attraction with splendid variations Sarajevo has hosted travellers for centuries because it was an important trading center during the Ottoman and Austro Hungarian empires and because it was a natural stop for many routes between East and West Examples of popular destinations in Sarajevo include the Vrelo Bosne park the Sarajevo cathedral and the Gazi Husrev beg Mosque Tourism in Sarajevo is chiefly focused on historical religious cultural sites and winter sports There are many parks throughout the city and on the outskirts A popular activity among locals is street chess usually played at Trg Oslobođenja Alija Izetbegovic Veliki Park is the largest green area in the center of Sarajevo It is nestled between Titova Kosevo Dzidzikovac Tina Ujevica and Trampina Streets and in the lower part there is a monument dedicated to the Children of Sarajevo Hastahana is a popular place to relax in the Austro Hungarian neighborhood of Marijin Dvor 71 Goat s Bridge locally known as Kozija Cuprija in the Miljacka Canyon is also a popular park destination along the Dariva walkway and river Miljacka 72 73 On 24 December 2012 a park hosting two brass sculptures resembling two mourning mothers was dedicated as the Friendship Park commemorating over 45 years of friendship between Sarajevo and Baku Sarajevo is also famous for its city lookouts including an observation deck on Avaz Twist Tower Park Princeva restaurant Vidikovac lookout Mt Trebevic Zmajevac lookout and Yellow White fortresses lookouts in Vratnik as well as numerous other rooftops throughout the city i e Alta Shopping Center BBI Centar Hotel Hecco Deluxe A symbol of Sarajevo is the Trebevic cable car which was reconstructed in 2018 also it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city taking visitors from the city center to Mount Trebevic There is also a UNESCO tentative monument the Old Jewish Cemetery almost 500 years old site that is the second largest Jewish sepulchral complex in Europe the one in Prague being the largest It is also one of the most significant memorial complexes in the world It represents the eternal proof of coexistence of two or more different confessions under different administrations and rules and the proof of mutual respect and tolerance 74 Parks rivers and public spaces in Sarajevo Great Park Veliki Park Kosevo Park Vilsonovo Setaliste Wilson s Promenade along the Miljacka Great Lane Velika aleja Ilidza The spring of the Bosna river is in Sarajevo Demographics EditMain article Demographics of Sarajevo Sarajevo has been called European Jerusalem due to city s diverse ethnic and religious makeup Emperor s Mosque Cathedral of the Nativity of the Theotokos Sacred Heart Cathedral Sarajevo Synagogue Historical populationYearPop 166080 000 185121 102 73 6 188526 377 25 0 189537 713 43 0 191051 919 37 7 192166 317 27 7 193178 173 17 9 1953135 657 73 5 1961213 092 57 1 1971359 448 68 7 1981379 608 5 6 1991492 682 29 8 2013413 593 16 1 2019419 957 1 5 Population size may be affected by changes in administrative divisions All figures after 1953 represent the urban Sarajevo area which consists of six urban municipalities while the metro population including 8 additional ones rises to 533 136 in 1981 621 421 in 1991 545 694 in 2013 and 555 210 in 2019 Source 75 Ethnic structure of Sarajevo by settlements 1991 Ethnic structure of Sarajevo by settlements 2013 Thanks to steady but constant and stable growth after the war today s built up area that includes not only previously mentioned urban municipalities but the urban part of Hadzici that is uninterruptedly connected to Ilidza the westernmost part of the Sarajevo urban settlement is inhabited by more than 419 000 people while the metro area including 8 additional municipalities 14 in total goes up to 555 210 inhabitants 76 It is noticeable that the fastest growing municipalities are Novi Grad one of the main ones and the most inhabited one where the population has increased by almost 4 000 people or 2 95 since the 2013 census and Ilidza that has recorded an increase of almost 7 since 2013 68 In June 2016 the final results of the 2013 census were published According to the census the population of the Sarajevo Canton was 413 593 with 55 181 residents in Centar 118 553 in Novi Grad 64 814 in Novo Sarajevo and 36 976 in Stari Grad 77 The last official Yugoslav census took place in 1991 and recorded 527 049 people living in the city of Sarajevo ten municipalities In the settlement of Sarajevo proper there were 454 319 inhabitants 78 full citation needed The war displaced hundreds of thousands of people a large majority of whom have not returned The war changed the ethnic and religious profile of the city It had long been a multicultural city 79 and often went by the nickname of Europe s Jerusalem 1 At the time of the 1991 census 49 2 per cent of the city s population of 527 049 were Bosniaks 29 8 percent Serbs 10 7 percent Yugoslavs 6 6 percent Croats and 3 6 percent other ethnicities Jews Romas etc According to academic Fran Markowitz there are a number of administrative apparatuses and public pressures that push people who might prefer to identify as flexible multiply constituted hybrids or with one of the now unnamed minority groups into one of the three Bosniac Croat Serb constituent nations 80 These include respondents being encouraged by census interviewers to identity as belonging to one of the three constituent peoples 81 Her analysis of marriage registration data shows for instance that 67 percent of people marrying in 2003 identified as Bosniak or Muslim which is significantly lower than the 79 6 percent census figure from 2002 unlike the census where people respond to an interviewer applicants to the marriage registry fill in the form themselves Ethnic composition of Sarajevo city proper by municipalities 2013 censusMunicipality Total Bosniaks Serbs Croats OthersCentar 55 181 41 702 75 57 2 186 3 96 3 333 6 04 7 960 14 42 Novi Grad 118 553 99 773 84 16 4 367 3 68 4 947 4 17 9 466 7 98 Novo Sarajevo 64 814 48 188 74 35 3 402 5 25 4 639 7 16 8 585 13 24 Stari Grad 36 976 32 794 88 69 467 1 3 685 1 85 3 030 8 19 Total 275 524 222 457 80 74 10 422 3 78 13 604 4 94 29 041 10 54 Transportation EditRoads and highways Edit Sarajevo s location in a valley between mountains makes it a compact city Narrow city streets and a lack of parking areas restrict automobile traffic but allow better pedestrian and cyclist mobility The two main roads are Titova Ulica Street of Marshal Tito and the east west Zmaj od Bosne Dragon of Bosnia highway E761 Located roughly at the center of the country Sarajevo is Bosnia s main intersection The city is connected to all the other major cities by highway or national road like Zenica Banja Luka Tuzla Mostar Gorazde and Foca Tourists from Central Europe and elsewhere visiting Dalmatia driving via Budapest through Sarajevo also contribute to the traffic congestion in and around Sarajevo The trans European highway Corridor Vc runs through Sarajevo connecting it to Budapest in the north and Ploce at the Adriatic sea in the south 82 The highway is being built by the government and should cost 3 5 billion Euro Up until March 2012 the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina invested around 600 million Euro in the A1 In 2014 the sections Sarajevo Zenica and Sarajevo Tarcin were completed including the Sarajevo Beltway ring road Tram bus and trolleybus Edit Sarajevo tram MAN Centrotrans bus Sarajevo s electric tramways in operation since 1884 and electrified since 1895 are the oldest form of public transportation in the city 83 Sarajevo had the first full time dawn to dusk tram line in Europe and the second in the world 11 Opened on New Year s Day in 1885 it was the testing line for the tram in Vienna and the Austro Hungarian Empire and operated by horses Originally built to 760 mm 2 ft 5 15 16 in Bosnian gauge the present system in 1960 was upgraded to 1 435 mm 4 ft 8 1 2 in standard gauge The trams played a pivotal role in the growth of the city in the 20th century There are seven tramway lines supplemented by five trolleybus lines and numerous bus routes The main railroad station in Sarajevo is in the north central area of the city From there the tracks head west before branching off in different directions including to industrial zones in the city Sarajevo is undergoing a major infrastructure renewal many highways and streets are being repaved the tram system is undergoing modernization and new bridges and roads are under construction Future metro plans Edit To solve traffic congestion in the city Sarajevo based architect Muzafer Osmanagic proposed a study called Eco Energy 2010 2015 proposing a subway system underneath the bed of the river Miljacka The first line of Metro Sarajevo would connect Bascarsija with Otoka This line would cost some 150 million KM and be financed by the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development 84 Railway Edit Sarajevo Railway Station Sarajevo has daily international connections which twice a day connect the city with Zagreb and Ploce There are also connections between Sarajevo and all major cities within Bosnia and Herzegovina Once the East Bosnian railway connected Sarajevo to Belgrade Cable car Mt Trebevic Edit Trebevic Cable Car Sarajevo s key landmark during the 1984 Winter Olympics was rebuilt by JKP GRAS Sarajevo and Sarajevo Canton as one of the new transportation systems in 2017 and it reopened on 6 April 2018 at 11 00 AM The cable car runs from Sarajevo at Bistrik station to the slopes of Trebevic at Vidikovac station 85 Airport Edit Sarajevo International Airport Sarajevo International Airport IATA SJJ also called Butmir is just a few kilometers southwest of the city and was voted Best European Airport With Under 1 000 000 Passengers at the 15th Annual ACI Europe in Munich in 2005 The first regular flights to Sarajevo using an airfield in the suburb of Butmir begin in 1930 when the domestic airliner Aeroput opened a regular route linking Belgrade to Podgorica through Sarajevo 86 Later Aeroput opened a route which linked Sarajevo with Split Rijeka and Dubrovnik and in 1938 the first international flights were introduced when Aeroput extended the route Dubrovnik Sarajevo Zagreb to Vienna Brno and Prague 86 87 The airfield in Butmir remained in use all the way until 1969 The need for a new airport in Sarajevo with an asphalt concrete runway was acknowledged in the mid 1960s when JAT the Yugoslav national carrier at that time began acquiring jet planes The construction of the airport began in 1966 at its present location not far from the old one citation needed Sarajevo Airport opened on 2 June 1969 for domestic traffic In 1970 Frankfurt became the first international destination served Most of the time the airport was a feeder airport where passengers embarked for flights to Zagreb and Belgrade on their way to international destinations Over time the traffic volume steadily grew from 70 000 to 600 000 passengers a year citation needed Later during the Bosnian War the airport was used for UN flights and humanitarian relief Since the Dayton Agreement in 1995 the airport retook its role as the main air gate to Bosnia and Herzegovina In 2017 957 971 passengers travelled through the airport which was 61 4 of the total airport traffic in Bosnia and Herzegovina 88 89 Plans for extension of the passenger terminal together with upgrading and expanding the taxiway and apron started in the fall of 2012 The existing terminal was expanded by approximately 7 000 m2 75 347 sq ft 90 The upgraded airport was directly linked to the commercial retail center Sarajevo Airport Center making it easier for tourists and travellers to spend their time before flight boarding shopping and enjoying the many amenities that are offered 91 Between 2015 and 2018 the airport was upgraded for more than 25 million euros International relations EditSee also List of twin towns and sister cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina Twin towns sister cities Edit Sarajevo is twinned with 92 Coventry United Kingdom since 1957 Tlemcen Algeria since 1964 Baku Azerbaijan since 1972 Magdeburg Germany since 1972 Friedrichshafen Germany since 1972 Tripoli Libya since 1976 Ferrara Italy since 1978 Bursa Turkey since 1979 Innsbruck Austria since 1980 Tianjin China since 1981 Harrisburg United States since 1984 Venice Italy since 1994 Collegno Italy since 1994 Ankara Turkey since 1994 Budapest Hungary since 1995 Serre Chevalier France since 1995 Prato Italy since 1995 Tirana Albania since 1996 Istanbul Turkey since 1997 Kuwait City Kuwait since 1998 Dayton United States since 1999 Barcelona Spain since 2000 Madrid Spain since 2007 Pula Croatia since 2012 Tehran Iran since 2016 Skopje North Macedonia since 2017 Doha Qatar since 2018 Izmir Turkey since 2022 93 Podgorica Montenegro since 2022 Friendship Edit Sarajevo is befriended with 92 94 95 Naples Italy since 1976 Wolfsburg Germany since 1985 Calgary Canada since 1986 Stockholm Sweden since 1997 Zagreb Croatia since 2001 Ljubljana Slovenia since 2002 Salt Lake City United States since 2002 Cairo Egypt since 2006 Dubrovnik Croatia since 2006 Konya Turkey since 2007 Vukovar Croatia since 2011 Bad Ischl Austria since 2016 Hiroshima Japan since 2017 Central AO Moscow Russia since 2017 Belgrade Serbia since 2017 Rueil Malmaison FranceCommunications and media EditMain article Communications and media in Sarajevo Observation deck top of Avaz Twist Tower As the largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina Sarajevo is the main center of the country s media Most of the communications and media infrastructure was destroyed during the war but reconstruction monitored by the Office of the High Representative has helped to modernize the industry as a whole 96 For example the Internet was first made available to the city in 1995 97 Oslobođenje Liberation founded in 1943 is Sarajevo s longest running continuously circulating newspaper and the only one to survive the war However this long running and trusted newspaper has fallen behind Dnevni avaz Daily Voice founded in 1995 and Jutarnje Novine Morning News in circulation in Sarajevo 98 Other local periodicals include the Croatian newspaper Hrvatska rijec and the Bosnian magazine Start as well as weekly newspapers Slobodna Bosna Free Bosnia and BH Dani BH Days Novi Plamen a monthly magazine is the most left wing publication The Radio and Television of Bosnia and Herzegovina BHRT is Sarajevo s public television station and was created in 1945 under the umbrella of the Yugoslav Radio Television JRT It had its first television program aired in 1961 while continuous programming started in 1969 It is one of three main TV stations in Bosnia and Herzegovina Other stations based in the city include Hayat TV O Kanal OBN TV Kantona Sarajevo and TV Alfa The headquarters of Al Jazeera Balkans is also in Sarajevo with a broadcasting studio at the top of the BBI Centar The news channel covers Bosnia and Herzegovina Serbia Croatia and Montenegro and the surrounding Balkan states 99 Many small independent radio stations exist including established stations such as Radio M RSG Radio Radio Old Town Studentski eFM Radio 100 Radio 202 and Radio BIR 101 Radio Free Europe as well as several American and Western European stations are available Education EditHigher education Edit Rectorate and the Faculty of Law University of Sarajevo National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzegovina Higher education has a long and rich tradition in Sarajevo The first institution that can be classified as a tertiary educational institution was a school of Sufi philosophy established by Gazi Husrev beg in 1537 numerous other religious schools have been established over time In 1887 under the Austro Hungarian Empire a Sharia Law School began a five year program 102 In the 1940s the University of Sarajevo became the city s first secular higher education institute effectively building upon the foundations established by the Saraybosna Hanika in 1537 In the 1950s post bachelor graduate degrees became available 103 Severely damaged during the war it was recently rebuilt in partnership with more than 40 other universities There are also several universities in Sarajevo including University of Sarajevo Sarajevo School of Science and Technology International University of Sarajevo American University in Bosnia and Herzegovina Sarajevo Graduate School of Business International Burch UniversityPrimary and secondary education Edit As of 2005 update there are 46 elementary schools Grades 1 9 and 33 high schools Grades 10 13 in Sarajevo including three schools for children with special needs 104 There are also several international schools in Sarajevo catering to the expatriate community some of which are Sarajevo International School and the French International School 105 of Sarajevo established in 1998 Further information SBS Sarajevo Business SchoolCulture EditMain article Culture of Sarajevo The National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina houses many important historical items from Bosnia and Herzegovina Sarajevo has been home to many different religions for centuries giving the city a range of diverse cultures In the time of Ottoman occupation of Bosnia Muslims Orthodox Christians Roman Catholics and Sephardi Jews all shared the city while maintaining distinctive identities They were joined during the brief occupation by Austria Hungary by a smaller number of Germans Hungarians Slovaks Czechs and Ashkenazi Jews By 1909 about 50 of the city s inhabitants were Muslim 25 were Catholic 15 were Orthodox and 10 were Jewish 106 Historically Sarajevo has been home to several prominent Bosnian poets scholars philosophers and writers To list only a very few Nobel Prize winner Vladimir Prelog is from the city as are the writer Zlatko Topcic and the poet Abdulah Sidran Nobel Prize winner Ivo Andric attended high school in Sarajevo for two years Academy Award winning director Danis Tanovic lives in the city The Sarajevo National Theatre is the oldest professional theater in Bosnia and Herzegovina having been established in 1921 A panoramic view of the ruined castle of Bijela Tabija White Bastion in the very east of Sarajevo Museums Edit Copies of the Sarajevo Haggadah Sarajevo is rich in museums including the Museum of Sarajevo the Ars Aevi Museum of Contemporary Art Historical Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina The Museum of Literature and Theatre Arts of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina established in 1888 home to the Sarajevo Haggadah 107 an illuminated manuscript and the oldest Sephardic Jewish document in the world 108 issued in Barcelona around 1350 containing the traditional Jewish Haggadah is on permanent display at the museum It is the only remaining illustrated Sephardic Haggadah in the world 109 The National Museum also hosts year round exhibitions pertaining to local regional and international culture and history and exhibits over 5 000 artefacts from Bosnia s history The Alija Izetbegovic Museum was opened on 19 October 2007 and is in the old town fort more specifically in the Vratnik Kapija towers Ploca and Sirokac The museum is a commemoration of the influence and body of work of Alija Izetbegovic the first president of the Presidency of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina Sarajevo is also home to the War Childhood Museum an independent non for profit museum containing personal belongings from the war and showing stories behind them In addition in 2018 the museum won the Council of Europe Museum Prize award for best museum 110 The city also hosts the Sarajevo National Theatre established in 1921 and the Sarajevo Youth Theatre Some other cultural institutions include the Center for Sarajevo Culture Sarajevo City Library National Gallery of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the Bosniak Institute a privately owned library and art collection focusing on Bosniak history Demolitions associated with the war as well as reconstruction destroyed several institutions and cultural or religious symbols including the Gazi Husrev beg Library the national library the Sarajevo Oriental Institute and a museum dedicated to the 1984 Winter Olympics Consequently the different levels of government established strong cultural protection laws and institutions 111 Bodies charged with cultural preservation in Sarajevo include the Institute for the Protection of the Cultural Historical and Natural Heritage of Bosnia and Herzegovina and their Sarajevo Canton counterpart and the Bosnia and Herzegovina Commission to Preserve National Monuments Museums of Sarajevo Bosniak Institute containing collections of the history of Bosnia and Bosniaks Museum Sarajevo 1878 1918 Alija Izetbegovic museum Medieval tombstones around the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina Sarajevo Tunnel Museum Music Edit See also List of Bosnia and Herzegovina patriotic songs Bijelo Dugme originated in Sarajevo widely considered to have been the most popular band ever to exist in the former Yugoslavia and one of the most important acts of the Yugoslav rock scene Pictured are Mladen Vojicic Tifa left and Goran Bregovic right Vedran Smailovic playing a cello on top of the ruins of the National library in 1992 Sarajevo is and has historically been one of the most important musical enclaves in the region The Sarajevo school of pop rock developed in the city between 1961 and 1991 This type of music began with bands like Indexi Kodeksi and singer songwriter Kemal Monteno It continued into the 1980s with bands such as Plavi orkestar Crvena jabuka and Divlje jagode by most accounts pioneering the regional rock and roll movement Sarajevo was also the home and birthplace of arguably the most popular and influential Yugoslav rock band of all time Bijelo Dugme somewhat of a Bosnian parallel to the Rolling Stones in both popularity and influence Sarajevo was also the home of a very notable post punk urban subculture known as the New Primitives which began during the early 1980s with the Baglama Band which was banned shortly after its first LP and was brought into the mainstream through bands such as Zabranjeno Pusenje and Elvis J Kurtovic amp His Meteors as well as the Top lista nadrealista radio and later television show Other notable bands considered to be part of this subculture are Bombaj Stampa Besides and separately from the New Primitives Sarajevo is the hometown to one of the most significant ex Yugoslavian alternative industrial noise bands SCH Perhaps more importantly Sarajevo in the late 19th and throughout the 20th century was home to a burgeoning and large center of Sevdalinka record making and contributed greatly to bringing this historical genre of music to the mainstream which had for many centuries been a staple of Bosnian culture Songwriters and musicians such as Himzo Polovina Safet Isovic Zaim Imamovic Zehra Deovic Halid Beslic Hanka Paldum Nada Mamula Meho Puzic and many more composed and wrote some of their most important pieces in the city Sarajevo also greatly influenced the pop scene of Yugoslavia with musicians like Zdravko Colic Kemal Monteno Dino Merlin Seid Memic Vajta Hari Mata Hari Mladen Vojicic Tifa Zeljko Bebek and many more Many newer Sarajevo based bands have also found a name and established themselves in Sarajevo such as Regina who also had two albums out in Yugoslavia and Letu Stuke who actually formed their band in Yugoslavia with the famous Bosnian American writer Aleksandar Hemon and got their real breakthrough later in the 2000s Sarajevo is now home to an important and eclectic mix of new bands and independent musicians which continue to thrive with the ever increasing number of festivals creative showcases and concerts around the country The city is also home to the region s largest jazz festival the Jazz Fest Sarajevo American heavy metal band Savatage released a song entitled Christmas Eve Sarajevo 12 24 on their 1995 album Dead Winter Dead which was about a cello player playing a forgotten Christmas carol in war torn Sarajevo The song was later re released by the same band under the name Trans Siberian Orchestra on their 1996 debut album Christmas Eve and Other Stories which the song gave them instant success Festivals Edit See also List of festivals in Sarajevo Sarajevo Film Festival is held annually since 1995 at the National Theatre Sarajevo is internationally renowned for its eclectic and diverse selection of over 50 annual festivals The Sarajevo Film Festival was established in 1995 during the Bosnian War and has become the premier and largest film festival in Southeast Europe 112 It has been hosted at the National Theater with screenings at the Open air theater Metalac and the Bosnian Cultural Center all in downtown Sarajevo The MESS International Festival is an experimental theatre festival and the oldest living theatre festival in the Balkans 113 The annual Sarajevo Youth Film Festival showcases feature animated and short films from around the world and is the premier student film festival in the Balkans 114 The Sarajevo Winter Festival Jazz Fest Sarajevo and Sarajevo International Music Festival are well known as is the Bascarsija Nights festival a month long showcase of local culture music and dance citation needed The first incarnation of the Sarajevo Film Festival was hosted in still warring Sarajevo in 1995 and has now progressed into being the biggest and most significant festival in Southeast Europe 112 A talent campus is also held during the duration of the festival with lecturers speaking on behalf of world cinematography and holding workshops for film students from across Southeast Europe 115 The Jazz Fest Sarajevo is the region s largest and most diverse of its kind The festival takes place at the Bosnian Cultural Center aka Main Stage just down the street from the SFF at the Sarajevo Youth Stage Theater aka Strange Fruits Stage at the Dom Vojske Federacije aka Solo Stage and at the CDA aka Groove Stage Sports Edit Bosnian football player Edin Dzeko was born in Sarajevo He is the all time leading goalscorer of the Bosnia and Herzegovina national football team 116 117 Kosevo City Stadium home to FK Sarajevo is the largest stadium in Bosnia and Herzegovina 118 Damir Dzumhur a Sarajevo born multi Grand Slam tennis player Mirza Delibasic Hall home venue of past European champion KK Bosna Royal Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics Yugoslavia won one medal a silver in men s giant slalom awarded to Jure Franko 119 Many of the Olympic facilities survived the war or were reconstructed including the Zetra Olympic Hall and Asim Ferhatovic Stadium In an attempt to bring back some of Sarajevo s Olympic glory 120 the original Olympic luge and bobsled tracks are being repaired due to the efforts of both the Olympic Committee of Bosnia and Herzegovina 121 and local sports enthusiasts 122 After co hosting the Southeast Europe Friendship games Sarajevo was awarded the 2009 Special Olympic winter games 123 but cancelled these plans 124 125 The ice arena for the 1984 Olympics Zetra Stadium was used during the war as a temporary hospital and later for housing NATO troops of the IFOR In 2011 Sarajevo was the host city of the 51st World Military Skiing Championship with over 350 participants from 23 different nations This was the first international event of such standing since the 1984 Olympics 126 Football soccer is popular in Sarajevo the city hosts FK Sarajevo and FK Zeljeznicar which both compete in European and international cups and tournaments and have a very large trophy cabinet in the former Yugoslavia as well as independent Bosnia and Herzegovina Other notable soccer clubs are FK Olimpik SASK and Slavija One of only three stadiums in Bosnia and Herzegovina that has the UEFA category 3 is the Grbavica Stadium the home stadium of FK Zeljeznicar Another popular sport is basketball the basketball club KK Bosna Royal won the European Championship in 1979 as well as many Yugoslav and Bosnian national championships making it one of the greatest basketball clubs in the former Yugoslavia The chess club Bosna Sarajevo has been a championship team since the 1980s and is the third ranked chess club in Europe having won four consecutive European championships in the nineties Handball club RK Bosna also competes in the European Champions League and is considered one of the most well organised handball clubs in Southeast Europe with a very large fan base and excellent national as well as international results Sarajevo often holds international events and competitions in sports such as tennis and kickboxing The popularity of tennis has been picking up in recent years Since 2003 BH Telecom Indoors is an annual tennis tournament in Sarajevo Since 2007 the Sarajevo Half Marathon has been organized every year in late September Giro di Sarajevo is also a run in the city with over 2 200 cyclists taking part in 2015 127 In February 2019 Sarajevo and East Sarajevo hosted the European Youth Olympic Winter Festival EYOWF Club Sport Leagues Venue Est Zeljeznicar Football Premier League of Bosnia and Herzegovina Grbavica Stadium 1921Sarajevo Football Premier League of Bosnia and Herzegovina Asim Ferhatovic Hase 1946RK Bosna Handball Handball Championship of Bosnia and Herzegovina Mirza Delibasic Hall 1948KK Bosna Royal Basketball Basketball Championship of Bosnia and Herzegovina Mirza Delibasic Hall 1951HK Bosna Ice Hockey Bosnia and Herzegovina Hockey League Olympic Hall Zetra 1980VK Bosna Water polo Bosnia and Herzegovina Water Polo League Olimpijski Bazen Otoka 1984SDI Spid Volleyball Bosnia Sitting Volleyball Championships Dvorana Ramiz Salcin 1994Fantomi Volleyball Bosnia Sitting Volleyball Championships Dvorana Ramiz Salcin 1995See also Edit Bosnia and Herzegovina portal Architecture of Bosnia and Herzegovina Centre for Nonviolent Action Folklore of Sarajevo Istocno Sarajevo List of people from Sarajevo List of shopping malls in Sarajevo Music of Bosnia and Herzegovina Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Vrhbosna Sarajevo International Culture Exchange Sites of interest in Sarajevo Tourism in Bosnia and HerzegovinaNotes Edit Sarajevo metropolitan area includes Sarajevo Canton with 413 593 inhabitants East Sarajevo with 61 516 inhabitants as well as the municipalities of Breza 14 564 Kiseljak 21 919 Kresevo 5 638 and Visoko 41 352 References Edit a b c Stilinovic Josip 3 January 2002 In Europe s Jerusalem Archived 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of the Bosnian Sub proletariat Studies in Eastern European Cinema Autumn 2010 lt Wayback Machine gt Tanzer Kim Longoria Rafael 11 April 2007 The Green Braid Towards an Architecture of Ecology Economy and Equity Routledge ISBN 978 1 134 12058 1 Maniscalco Fabio 1997 Sarajevo Itinerari artistici perduti Sarajevo Artistic Itineraries Lost Naples Guida Markowitz Fran 2007 Census and sensibilities in Sarajevo Comparative Studies in Society and History 49 1 40 73 doi 10 1017 S0010417507000400 S2CID 143939745 Markowitz Fran 2010 Sarajevo A Bosnian Kaleidoscope Urbana IL University of Illinois Press ISBN 978 0 252 07713 5 Prstojevic Miroslav 1992 Zaboravljeno Sarajevo Forgotten Sarajevo Sarajevo Ideja Valerijan Zujo Imamovic Mustafa Curovac Muhamed Kurto Nedzad et al 1997 Curovac Muhamed ed Sarajevo Svjetlost OCLC 443678670 My Life in Fire a non fiction story of a child in a Sarajevo war Mehmedinovic Semezdin 1998 Sarajevo Blues San Francisco City Lights External links EditListen to this article 19 minutes source source This audio file was created from a revision of this article dated 14 November 2006 2006 11 14 and does not reflect subsequent edits Audio help More spoken articles Sarajevo at Wikipedia s sister projects Definitions from Wiktionary Media from Commons News from Wikinews Quotations from Wikiquote Texts from Wikisource Textbooks from Wikibooks Travel information from Wikivoyage Resources from Wikiversity Official website Chronology of the battle and siege of Sarajevo Archived 3 November 2013 at the Wayback Machine Sarajevo on Encyclopaedia Britannica Sarajevo Panorama Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Sarajevo amp oldid 1131878076, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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