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Belfast

Belfast (/ˈbɛlfæst/ BEL-fast, /-fɑːst/ -⁠fahst[a] (from Irish: Béal Feirste [bʲeːlˠ ˈfʲɛɾˠ(ə)ʃtʲə]))[5][6] is the capital city and principal port of Northern Ireland, standing on the banks of the River Lagan and connected to the open sea through Belfast Lough and the North Channel. It is second to Dublin as the largest city on the island of Ireland with a population in 2021 of 345,418[7] and a metro area population of 671,559.[8]

Belfast
Capital city
Skyline and buildings throughout the City of Belfast
Coat of arms with motto "Pro Tanto Quid Retribuamus" (Latin: "What shall we give in return for so much")
Location within Northern Ireland
Area51.16[1] sq mi (132.5 km2)
PopulationMetropolitan area:
671,559 (2011)[2]
Local Government District:
345,418 (2021)[3]
City Limits:
293,298 (2021)[4]
Irish grid referenceJ338740
District
County
CountryNorthern Ireland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townBELFAST
Postcode districtBT1–BT17, BT29 (part), BT36 (part), BT58
Dialling code028
PoliceNorthern Ireland
FireNorthern Ireland
AmbulanceNorthern Ireland
UK Parliament
NI Assembly
Websitebelfastcity.gov.uk
List of places
UK
Northern Ireland
54°35′47″N 05°55′48″W / 54.59639°N 5.93000°W / 54.59639; -5.93000

Established as an English settlement early in the 17th century, its growth was driven by an influx of Scottish-descendant Presbyterians. Their disaffection with Ireland's Anglican establishment contributed to the rebellion of 1798, and to the union with Great Britain—later regarded as a key to the town's industrial transformation. When granted city status in 1888, Belfast was the world's largest centre of linen manufacture, and by the 1900s her shipyards were building up to a quarter of total United Kingdom tonnage.

Sectarian tensions accompanied the growth of an Irish Catholic population drawn by mill and factory employment from western districts. Heightened by division over Ireland's future in the United Kingdom, these twice erupted in periods of sustained violence: in 1920-22, as Belfast emerged as the capital of the six northeast counties retaining the British connection, and over three decades from the late 1960s during which the British Army was continually deployed on the streets. A legacy of conflict is the barrier-reinforced separation of Protestant and Catholic working-class districts.

Since the 1998 Belfast Agreement, the electoral balance in the once unionist-controlled city has shifted, albeit with no overall majority, in favour of Irish nationalists. At the same time, new immigrants are adding to the growing number of residents unwilling to identify with either of the two communal traditions.

Belfast has seen significant services sector growth, with important contributions from financial technology (fintech), from tourism and, with facilities in the redeveloped Harbour Estate, from film. It retains a port with commercial and industrial docks, including a reduced Harland & Wolff shipyard and aerospace and defence contractors. Post Brexit, Belfast and Northern Ireland remain, uniquely, within both the British domestic and European Single trading areas for goods.

The city is served by two airports: George Best Belfast City Airport on the Lough shore and Belfast International Airport 15 miles (24 kilometres) west of the city. It supports two universities: on the north-side of the city centre, Ulster University, and on the southside the longer established Queens University. Since 2021, Belfast has been a UNESCO designated City of Music.

City's history edit

Name edit

 
A 1685 plan of Belfast by the military engineer Thomas Phillips, showing the town's ramparts and Lord Chichester's castle, which was destroyed in a fire in 1708

The name Belfast derives from the Irish Béal Feirste (Irish pronunciation: [bʲeːlˠ ˈfʲɛɾˠ(ə)ʃtʲə]),[6] "Mouth of the Farset"[9] a river whose name in the Irish, Feirste, refers to a sandbar or tidal ford.[10] This was formed where the river ran—until culverted late in the 18th century, down High Street—[11] into Lagan. It was at this crossing, located under or close to the current Queen's Bridge, that the early settlement developed.[12]: 74–77 

The compilers of Ulster-Scots use various transcriptions of local pronunciations of "Belfast" (with which they sometimes are also content)[13][14] including Bilfawst,[15][16] Bilfaust[17] or Baelfawst.[18]

Early settlements edit

The site of Belfast has been occupied since the Bronze Age. The Giant's Ring, a 5,000-year-old henge, is located near the city,[12]: 42–45 [19] and the remains of Iron Age hill forts can still be seen in the surrounding hills. At the beginning of the 14th century, Papal tax rolls record two churches: at Kock in the east, the "Chapel of Dundela",[20] connected by some accounts to the 7th-century evangelist St. Colmcille,[21]: 11 and, the "Chapel of the Ford", which may have been a successor to a much older parish church on the present Shankill (Seanchill, "Old Church") Road,[12]: 63–64  dating back to the 9th,[22] and possibly to St. Patrick in the mid 5th, century.[23]

A Norman settlement at the ford, comprising the parish church (now St. George's), a watermill, and a small fort,[24] was an outpost of Carrickfergus Castle. Established in the late 12th century, 11 miles (18 km) out along the north shore of the Lough, Carrickfergus was to remain the principal English foothold in the north-east until the scorched- earth Nine Years' War at the end of the 16th century broke the remaining Irish power, the O'Neills.[25]

Developing port, radical politics edit

With a commission from James I, in 1613 Sir Arthur Chichester undertook the Plantation of Belfast and the surrounding area, attracting mainly English and Manx settlers.[26] The subsequent arrival of Scottish Presbyterians embroiled Belfast in its only recorded siege: denounced from London by John Milton as "ungrateful and treacherous guests",[27] in 1649 the newcomers were temporarily expelled by an English Parliamentarian army.[28]: 21 [29] In 1689, Catholic Jacobite forces, briefly in command of the town,[30] abandoned it in advance of the landing at Carrickfergus of William, Prince of Orange, who proceeded through the Belfast to his celebrated victory on 12 July 1690 at the Boyne.[31]

Together with French Huguenots, the Scots introduced the production of linen, a flax-spinning industry that in the 18th century carried Belfast trade to the Americas.[32] Fortunes were made carrying rough linen clothing and salted provisions to the slave plantations of the West Indies; sugar and rum to Baltimore and New York; and for the return to Belfast flaxseed and tobacco from the colonies.[33] From the 1760s, profits from the trade financed improvements in the town's commercial infrastructure, including the Lagan Canal, new docks and quays, and the construction of the White Linen Hall which together attracted to Belfast the linen trade that had formerly gone through Dublin. Abolitionist sentiment, however, defeated the proposal of the greatest of the merchant houses, Cunningham and Greg, in 1786 to commission ships for the Middle Passage.[34]

 
Volunteer Corps parade down High Street, Bastille Day, 1792

As "Dissenters" from the established Anglican church (with its episcopacy and ritual), Presbyterians were conscious of sharing, if only in part, the disabilities of Ireland's dispossessed Roman Catholic majority; and of being denied representation in the Irish Parliament. Belfast's two MPs remained nominees of the Chichesters (Marquesses of Donegall). With their emigrant kinsmen in America, the region's Presbyterians were to share a growing disaffection from the Crown[35]: 55–61 [36]

When early in the American War of Independence, Belfast Lough was raided by the privateer John Paul Jones, the townspeople assembled their own Volunteer militia. Formed ostensibly for defence of the Kingdom, Volunteer corps were soon pressing their own protest against "taxation without representation". Further emboldened by the French Revolution, a more radical element in the town, the Society of United Irishmen, called for Catholic emancipation and a representative national government.[37] In hopes of French assistance, in 1798 the Society organised a republican insurrection. The rebel tradesmen and tenant farmers were defeated north of the town at the Battle of Antrim and to the south at the Battle of Ballynahinch.[38]

Britain seized on the rebellion to abolish the Irish Parliament, unlamented in Belfast, and to incorporate Ireland in a United Kingdom.[39] In 1832, British parliamentary reform permitted the town its first electoral contest[40] – an occasion for an early and lethal sectarian riot.[41]: 87 

Industrial expansion, sectarian division edit

 
High Street, c. 1906

While other Irish towns experienced a loss of manufacturing, and after a cotton boom and bust, from the 1820s Belfast underwent rapid industrial expansion. As the global leader in the production of linen goods—mill, and finishing, work largely employing women and children—[42] it won the moniker "Linenopolis".[43] Shipbuilding led the development of heavier industry.[44] By the 1900s, her shipyards were building up to a quarter of the total United Kingdom tonnage.[45] This included from the yard of Harland & Wolff the ill-fated RMS Titanic, at the time of her launch in 1911 the largest ship afloat.[46] Other major export industries included textile machinery, rope, tobacco and mineral waters.[21]: 59–88 

Industry drew in a new Catholic population settling largely in the west of the town—refugees from a rural poverty intensified by Belfast's mechanisation of spinning and weaving and, in the 1840s, by famine.[47] The plentiful supply of cheap labour helped attract English and Scottish capital to Belfast, but it was also a cause of insecurity.[48] Protestant workers organised and dominated the apprenticed trades[49] and gave a new lease of life to the once largely rural Orange Order.[50][51] Sectarian tensions, which frequently broke out in riots and workplace expulsions, were also driven by the "constitutional question": the prospect of a restored Irish parliament in which Protestants (and northern industry) feared being a minority interest.[49]

On 28 September 1912, unionists massed at Belfast's City Hall to sign the Ulster Covenant, pledging to use "all means which may be found necessary to defeat the present conspiracy to set up a Home Rule Parliament in Ireland".[52] This was followed by the drilling and eventual arming of a 100,000-strong Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF).[53] The immediate crisis was averted by the onset of the Great War. The UVF formed the 36th (Ulster) Division whose sacrifices in the Battle of the Somme continue to be commemorated in the city by unionist and loyalist organisations.[54]

In 1920-22, as Belfast emerged as the capital of the six counties remaining as Northern Ireland in the United Kingdom, there was widespread violence. 8,000 "disloyal" workers were driven from their jobs in the shipyards:[55] in addition to Catholics, "rotten Prods" – Protestants whose labour politics disregarded sectarian distinctions.[56]: 104–108  Gunbattles, grenade attacks and house burnings contributed to as many as 500 deaths.[57] A curfew remained in force until 1924.[58] The lines drawn saw off the challenge to "unionist unity" posed by labour (industry had been paralysed by strikes in 1907and again in 1919).[59] Until "troubles" returned at the end of the 1960s, it was not uncommon in Belfast for the Ulster Unionist Party to have its council and parliamentary candidates returned unopposed.[60][61]

In 1932, the opening of the new buildings for Northern Ireland's devolved Parliament at Stormont[62] was overshadowed by the protests of the unemployed and ten days of running street battles with the police. The government conceded increases in Outdoor Relief, but labour unity was short lived.[41]: 219–220  In 1935, celebrations of King George V's Jubilee and of the annual Twelfth were followed by deadly riots and expulsions, a sectarian logic that extended itself to the interpretation of darkening events in Europe.[41]: 226–233  Labour candidates found their support for the anti-clerical Spanish Republic characterised as another instance of No-Popery.[63] (Today, the cause of the republic in the Spanish Civil War is commemorated by a "No Pasaran" stained glass window in City Hall).[64]

In 1938, nearly a third of industrial workers were unemployed, malnutrition was a major issue, and at 9.6% the city's infant mortality rate (compared with 5.9% in Sheffield, England) was among the highest in United Kingdom.[65]

The Blitz and post-war development edit

 
Aftermath of the Blitz in May 1941

In the spring of 1941, the German Luftwaffe appeared twice over Belfast. In addition to the shipyards and the Short & Harland aircraft factory, the Belfast Blitz severely damaged or destroyed more than half the city's housing stock, and devastated the old town centre around High Street.[66] In the greatest loss of life in any air raid outside of London, more than a thousand people were killed.[67]

At the end of World War II, the Unionist government undertook programmes of "slum clearance" (the Blitz had exposed the "uninhabitable" condition of much of the city's housing) which involved decanting populations out of mill and factory built red-brick terraces and into new peripheral housing estates.[68][69] At the same time, a British-funded welfare state "revolutionised access" to education and health care.[70] The resulting rise in expectations; together with the uncertainty caused by the decline of the city’s Victorian-era industries, contributed to growing protest, and counter protest, in the 1960s over the Unionist government's record on civil and political rights.[71]

The Troubles edit

 
Memorial mural, Shankill Road

For reasons that nationalists and unionists dispute,[72] the public protests of the late 1960s soon gave way to communal violence (in which as many as 60,000 people were intimidated from their homes)[73]: 70  and to loyalist and republican paramilitarism. Introduced onto the streets in August 1969, the British Army committed to the longest continuous deployment in its history, Operation Banner. Beginning in 1970 with the Falls curfew, and followed in 1971 by internment, this included counterinsurgency measures directed chiefly at the Provisional Irish Republican Army (PIRA) who characterised their operations, including the bombing of Belfast's commercial centre, as a struggle against British occupation.[74][75]

Preceded by loyalist and republican ceasefires, the 1998 "Good Friday" Belfast Agreement returned a new power-sharing legislative assembly and executive to Stormont.[76] In the intervening years in Belfast, some 20,000 people had been injured, and 1,500 killed.[73]: 73 [77]

 
Memorial mural, Ballymurphy

Eighty-five percent of the conflict-related deaths had occurred within 1,000 metres of the communal interfaces, largely in the north and west of the city.[73]: 73  The security barriers erected at these interfaces are an enduring physical legacy of the Troubles.[78] The 14 neighbourhoods they separate are among the 20 most deprived wards in Northern Ireland.[79] In May 2013, the Northern Ireland Executive committed to the removal of all peace lines by mutual consent.[80][81] The target date of 2023 was passed with only a small number dismantled.[82][83]

The more affluent districts escaped the worst of the violence, but the city centre was a major target. This was especially so during the first phase of the PIRA campaign in the early 1970s, when the organisation hoped to secure quick political results through maximum destruction.[78]: 331–332  Including car bombs and incendiaries, between 1969 and 1977 the city experienced 2,280 explosions.[28]: 58  In addition to the death and injury caused, they accelerated the loss of the city's Victorian fabric.[84]

21st century edit

Since the turn of the century, the loss of employment and population in the city centre has been reversed.[85] This reflects the growth of the service economy, for which a new district has been developed on former dockland, the Titanic Quarter. The growing tourism sector paradoxically lists as attractions the murals and peace walls that echo the violence of the past.[78]: 350.352  In recent years, "Troubles tourism"[35]: 180–189  has presented visitors with new territorial markers: flags, murals and graffiti in which loyalists and republicans take opposing sides in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.[86]

The demographic balance of some areas has been changed by immigration (according to the 2021 census just under 10% of the city's population was born outside the British Isles),[87] by local differences in births and deaths between Catholics and Protestants, and by a growing number of, particularly younger, people no longer willing to self-identify on traditional lines.[69]

In 1997, unionists lost overall control of Belfast City Council for the first time in its history. The election in 2011 saw Irish nationalist councillors outnumber unionist councillors for the first time, with Sinn Féin becoming the largest party, and the cross-community Alliance Party holding the balance of power.[88]

In the 2016 Brexit referendum, Belfast's four parliamentary constituencies returned a substantial majority (60 percent) for remaining within the European Union, as did Northern Ireland as a whole (55.8), the only UK region outside London and Scotland to do so.[89] In February 2022, the Democratic Unionist Party, which had actively campaigned for Brexit, withdrew from the power-sharing executive and collapsed the Stormont institutions to protest the 2020 UK-EU Northern Ireland Protocol. With the promise of equal access to the British and European markets, this designates Belfast as a point of entry to the European Single Market within whose regulatory framework local producers will continue to operate.[90] After two years, the standoff was resolved with an agreement to eliminate routine checks on UK-destined goods.[91]

 
City quays and Lagan Weir

Cityscape edit

Location and topography edit

 
Satellite image of Belfast with Lough

Belfast is at the mouth of the River Lagan at the head of Belfast Lough open through the North Channel to the Irish Sea and to the North Atlantic. In the course of the 19th century, the location's estuarine features were re-engineered. With dredging and reclamation, the lough was made to accommodate a deep sea port, and extensive shipyards.[92] The lagan was banked (in 1994 a weir raised its water level to cover what remained of the tidal mud flats)[93] and its various tributaries were culverted[94] (on the model pioneered in 2008 by the Connswater Community Greenway some are now being considered for "daylighting").[95]

It remains the case that much of the city centre is built on an estuarine bed of "sleech": silt, peat, mud and—a source the city's ubiquitous red brick— soft clay, that presents a challenge for high-rise construction.[96] (It was this soft foundation that persuaded St Anne's Cathedral to abandon plans for a bell tower and, in 2007, to substitute a lightweight steel spire).[97] The city centre is also subject to tidal flood risk. Rising sea levels could mean, that without significant investment, flooding in the coming decades will be persistent.[98]

The city is overlooked on the County Antrim side (to the north and northwest) by a precipitous basalt escarpment—the near continuous line of Divis Mountain (478m), Black Mountain (389m) and Cavehill (368m)—whose "heathery slopes and hanging fields are visible from almost any part of the city".[92]: 13  From County Down side (on the south and south east) it is flanked by the lower-lying Castlereagh and Hollywood hills. The sand and gravel Malone Ridge extends up river to the south-west.

North Belfast and Shankill edit

From 1820, Belfast began to spread rapidly beyond its 18th century limits. To the north, it stretched out along roads which drew into the town migrants from Scots-settled hinterland of County Antrim.[48] Largely Presbyterian, they enveloped a number of Catholic-occupied “mill-row” clusters: New Lodge, Ardoyne and "the Marrowbone".[99][100] Together with areas of more substantial housing in the Oldpark district, these are wedged between Protestant working-class housing stretching from Tiger's Bay out the Shore Road on one side, and up the Shankill (the original Antrim Road) on the other.[101]

The Greater Shankill area, including Crumlin and Woodvale, is over the line from the Belfast North parliamentary/assembly constituency, but is physically separated from the rest of Belfast West by an extensive series of separation barriers[102]peace walls—owned (together with five daytime gates into the Falls area) by the Department of Justice.[103] These include Cupar Way where tourists are informed that, at 45 feet, the barrier is "three times higher than the Berlin Wall and has been in place for twice as long".[104]

With other working-class districts, Shankill suffered from the "collapse of old industrial Belfast".[105] But it was also greatly affected from the 1960s by the city's most ambitious programme of "slum clearance". Red-brick, "two up, two down" terraced streets, typical of 19th century working-class housing, were replaced with flats, maisonettes, and car parks but few facilities. In a period of twenty years, due largely to redevelopment, 50,000 residents left the area leaving an aging population of 26,000[106][105] and more than 100 acres of wasteland.[107]

Meanwhile, road schemes, including the terminus of the M1 motorway and the Westlink, demolished a mixed dockland community, Sailortown and severed the streets linking the Shankill area and the rest of both north and west Belfast to the city centre.[108][109]

New "green field" housing estates were built on the outer edges of the city. The onset of the Troubles overwhelmed attempts to promote these as "mixed" neighbourhoods so that the largest of these developments on the city's northern edge, Rathcoole rapidly solidified as a loyalist community.[110] In 2004, it was estimated that 98% of public housing in Belfast was divided along religious lines.[111]

Among the principal landmarks of north Belfast are the Crumlin Road Gaol (1845) now a major visitor attraction, the Clonard Monastery, (1890), the Waterworks Park (1889), and Belfast Zoo (1934).

West Belfast edit

In the mid-19th century rural poverty and famine drove large numbers of Catholic tenant farmers, landless labourers and their families toward Belfast. Their route brought them down Falls Road and into what are now remnants of an older Catholic enclave around St Mary's Church, the town's first Catholic chapel (opened in 1784 with Presbyterian subscriptions),[112] and Smithfield Market.[48] Eventually an entire west side of the city, stretching up the Falls Road and out passed Andersonstown, and encompassing the new housing estates built 1950s and 60s along the Springfield Road (Highfield, New Barnsley, Ballymurphy, Whiterock and Turf Lodge) became near-exclusively Catholic and in political terms nationalist.

Reflecting the nature of available employment as mill workers, domestics and shop assistants, the population, initially, was disproportionately female. Further opportunities for women on Falls Road arose through developments in education and public health. In 1900, the Dominican Order opened St Mary's [Teacher] Training College, and in 1903 King Edward VII opened the Royal Victoria Hospital at the junction with the Grosvenor Road.[113] Extensively redeveloped and expanded, the hospital has a staff of more than 8,500.[114]

Landmarks in the area include the Gothic-revival St Peter's Cathedral (1866, signature twin spires added in 1886);[115] the Conway Mill (1853/1901, re-developed as a community enterprise, arts and education centre in 1983);[116] St Malachy's College (1833) and, best known for its republican graves, Milltown Cemetery (1869).

The areas greatest visitor attraction are its wall and gable-end murals. In contrast to those to those in loyalist areas, where Israel is typically the only outside reference, these range more freely beyond the local conflict frequently expressing solidarity with Palestinians, with Cuba, and with Basque and Catalan separatists.[117][118]

South Belfast edit

West Belfast is separated from South Belfast, and from the otherwise abutting loyalist districts of Sandy Row and the Donegall Road, by rail lines, the MI Motorway (to Dublin and the west); industrial and retail parks, and the remnants of the Blackstaff (Owenvarra) bog meadows.

Belfast began stretching up-river in the 1840s and 50s: out the Ormeau and Lisburn roads and, between them, running along a ridge of higher ground, the Malone Road. From "leafy" avenues of increasingly substantial (and in the course of time “mixed") housing, the Upper Malone broadened out into areas of parkland and villas.

Further out still, where they did not survive as public parks, from the 1960s the great-house demesnes of the city's former mill-owners and industrialists, were developed for public housing: loyalist estates such as Seymour Hill and Belvoir. Meanwhile, in Malone and along the river embankments, new houses and apartment blocks have been squeezed in, increasing the general housing density.[119]

Beyond the Queens University area the area's principal landmarks are the 15-storey tower block of Belfast City Hospital (1986) on the Lisburn Road, and the Lagan Valley Regional Park through which a towpath extends from the City-centre quayside to Lisburn.[120]

Northern Ireland's three permanent diplomatic missions are situated on the Malone Road, the consulates of China,[121] Poland [122] and the United States.[123]

East Belfast edit

The first district on the right bank of the Lagan (the County Down side) to be incorporated in Belfast was Ballymacarrett after 1868.[41][124]Harland and Wolff, whose gantry cranes "Samson & Goliath" tower over the area, was long the mainstay of employment—although less securely so for the townland's Catholics (In 1970, when the yard still had a workforce of 10,000, only 400 Catholics were employed).[41]: 280  Tolerated in periods of expansion as navvies and casual labourers,[56]: 87–88  they concentrated in a small enclave, the Short Strand, which has continued into this century to feature as sectarian flashpoint.[125][126] Home to around 2,500 people, it is the only distinctly nationalist area in the east of the river.[127]

East Belfast developed from the Queens Bridge (1843), through Ballymacarrett, east along the Newtownards Road and north (along the east shore of the Lough) up the Holywood Road; and from the Albert Bridge (1890) south east out the Cregagh and Castlereagh roads. The further out, the more substantial, and less religiously segregated, the housing until again encountering the city's outer ring of public housing estates: loyalist Knocknagoney, Lisnasharragh, and Tullycarnet.

This century, efforts have been made to add to East Belfast's two obvious visitor attractions: Samson & Goliath (the "banana yellow cranes" date only from the early 1970s)[56]: 79  and the Parliament Buildings at Stormont. What is marketed now as EastSide, features, at the intersection of the Connswater and Comber Greenways and next to the EastSide Visitor Centre, CS Lewis Square (2017), named and themed in honour of the local author of The Chronicles of Narnia.[128] Next to the former the Harland & Wolff Drawing Offices (now an hotel), stands the "cultural nucleus to Titanic Quarter", Titanic Belfast (2012) whose interactive galleries tell the liner's ill-fated story.[129]

City Centre edit

Belfast City Centre is roughly bounded by the ring roads constructed since the 1970s: the M3 which sweeps across the dockland to the north; the Westlink that connects to the M1 for points south and west; and, with less certainty, the Bruce Street and Bankmore connectors that tie back toward the Lagan at the Gasworks Business Park and the beginning of the Ormeau Road. This embraces "the Markets", the one remaining inner-city area of housing.[130] Of the various markets, including those for the sale and shipping of livestock, from which it derives its name, only one survives, the former produce market, St George's,[131] now a food and craft market popular with visitors to the city.[132]

 
Belfast Charitable Society, Clifton House, 1774.

Architectural heritage edit

Among surviving elements of the pre-Victorian town are the Belfast Entries, 17th-century alleyways off High Street, including, in Winecellar Entry, White's Tavern (rebuilt 1790); the elliptical First Presbyterian (Non-Subscribing) Church (1781–83) in Rosemary Street (whose members led the abolitionist charge against Greg and Cunningham);[133] the Assembly Rooms (1769, 1776, 1845) on Bridge Street; St George's Church of Ireland (1816) on the High Street site of the old Corporation Church; and (although cut off by arterial roads) the oldest public building in Belfast, Clifton House (1771–74), the Belfast Charitable Society poorhouse on North Queen Street. In addition there are small sets of city-centre Georgian terraces.[134]

 
Scottish Provident Institution, 1902

Of the much larger Victorian city a substantial legacy has survived the Blitz, The Troubles and planning and development. Among the more notable examples[134] are St Malachy's Roman Catholic Church (1844) and the original college building of Queen's University Belfast (1849), both in a Tudor style; the Palm House in the Botanic Gardens (1852); the Renaissance revival Union Theological College (1853) and Ulster Bank (now Merchant Hotel) (1860); the Italianate Ulster Hall (1862), and the National Trust restored ornate Crown Liquor Saloon (1885, 1898) (a setting for the classic film, Odd Man Out, starring James Mason);[135] the oriental-themed Grand Opera House (1895) (bombed several times during the Troubles);[136] and the Renaissance and Baroque revival Scottish Provident Institution (1902),

The Baroque revival City Hall was finished in 1906 on the site of the former White Linen Hall, and was built to reflect Belfast's city status, granted by Queen Victoria in 1888. Its Edwardian design influenced the Victoria Memorial in Calcutta, India, and Durban City Hall in South Africa.[137][138] The dome is 173 ft (53 m) high and figures above the door state "Hibernia encouraging and promoting the Commerce and Arts of the City".[139] The Royal Courts of Justice and St Anne's Church of Ireland Cathedral are of the same period.

Redevelopment edit

The opening Victoria Square Shopping Centre in 2008 was to symbolize the rebound of the city centre since its days as a restricted security zone during the Troubles.[140] But retail footfall in the centre is limited by competition with out-of-town shopping centres and with internet retailing. As of November 2023, footfall had not recovered pre-COVID pandemic levels.[141] There are compensating trends: the growth in tourism and hospitality which has included a sustained boom in hotel construction.[142]

The City Council also talks of a “residential-led regeneration”.[143][144] New townhouse and apartments schemes are being developed for the city's quays,[145] and for Titanic Quarter.[146] The completion in 2023 of Ulster University’s enhanced Belfast campus (in "one of the largest higher education capital builds in Europe")[147] and the determination of Queen's University to compete with the private sector in the provision of student housing,[148] has fostered the construction downtown of multiple new student residences.[149]

Rough sleeping and homelessness edit

People can be found sleeping rough on the streets of the city centre. Numbers, while growing, may be comparatively small for a city of its size in the British Isles. In 2022, counts and estimates by the Northern Ireland Housing Executive identified a total of 26 rough sleepers in Belfast.[150] This is against a background (in 2023) of 2,317 people (0.67% of residents) presenting as homeless, many of whom are in temporary accommodation and shelters.[151] Such figures, however, do not include all those living in severely overcrowded conditions, involuntarily sharing with other households on a long-term basis, or sleeping rough in hidden locations.[152][153]

The "Quarters" edit

 
Aerial view of Belfast (2004)
 
St Anne's Cathedral

Since 2001, buoyed by increasing numbers of tourists, the city council has promoted a number of cultural quarters.

The Cathedral Quarter comprises much of Belfast’s old trade and warehousing district in the narrow streets and entries around St Anne's Cathedral, with a concentration of bars, beer gardens, clubs and restaurants (including two establishments claiming descent from the early town, White's and The Duke of York)[154] and performance spaces (most notably the Black Box and Oh Yeah).[155][156] It hosts a yearly visual and performing arts festival. The adjoining Custom House Square is one of the city's main outdoor venues for free concerts and street entertainment.

Without defined geographical boundaries, the Gaeltacht Quarter encompasses Irish-speaking Belfast. (According to the 2021 census, 15.5% of people in the city have some knowledge of Irish, 4% speak it daily).[157] It is generally understood as an area around the Falls Road in west Belfast served by the Cultúrlann McAdam Ó Fiaich cultural centre.[158][159] It can be said to include, at the Skainos Centre in unionist east Belfast, Turas, a project that promotes Irish through night classes and cultural events in the belief that "the language belongs to all".[160]

The Linen Quarter', an area south of City Hall once dominated by linen warehouses, now includes, in addition to cafés, bars and restaurants, a dozen hotels (including the 23-storey Grand Central Hotel), and the city's two principal Victorian-era cultural venues, the Grand Opera House and the Ulster Hall.[161]

Moving further south along the so-called "Golden Mile" of bars and clubs through Shaftesbury Square, there is the Queen's [University] Quarter. In addition to the university (spread over 250 buildings, of which 120 are listed as being of architectural merit),[162] it is home to Botanic Gardens and the Ulster Museum.[163]

Finally, the Titanic Quarter covers 0.75 km2 (185 acres) of reclaimed land adjacent to Belfast Harbour, formerly known as Queen's Island. Named after RMS Titanic, launched here in 1911,[164] work began in 2003 to transform some former shipyard land into "one of the largest waterfront developments in Europe".[165] The current area houses Titanic Belfast, the Public Records Office of Northern Ireland (PRONI), two hotels, and multiple condo towers and shops, and the Titanic [film] Studios.[166]

Culture edit

Arts venues and festivals edit

 
"True to Our Words" - Christina Angelina (2015),[167] Donegall Street: "street art in Belfast has moved with political developments, and [is] facilitating a conscious cultural rebranding of the city".[168]

From Georgian Belfast, the city retains a civic legacy. In addition to Clifton House[169] (Belfast Charitable Society, 1774), this includes the Linen Hall Library[170] (Belfast Society for Promoting Knowledge, 1788), the Ulster Museum (founded by the Belfast Natural History Society as the Belfast Municipal Museum and Art Gallery in 1833), and the Botanic Gardens[171] (established in 1828 by the Belfast Botanic and Horticultural Society).[171] These remain important cultural venues: in the case of the Gardens, for outdoor festivities including the Belfast Melā, the city’s annual celebration of global cultures.[172]

Of the many stage venues built in the nineteenth century, and film theatres built in the twentieth, there remains the Ulster Hall (1862),[173] which hosts concerts (including those of the Ulster Orchestra), classical recitals and party-political meetings; the Grand Opera House[174] (1895) badly damaged in bomb blasts in the early 1990s, restored and enlarged 2020; the Strand Cinema[175] (1935) now being developed as an arts centre;[176] and the Queens Film Theatre (QFT) (1968) focussed on art house and world cinema.[177] The two independent cinemas offer their screens for the Belfast Film Festival and the Belfast International Arts Festival.

The principal stage for drama remains the Lyric Theatre (1951), the largest employer of actors and other theatre professionals in the region.[178] At Queens University, drama students stage their productions at the Brian Friel Theatre, a 120-seat studio space (named after the renowned playwright).[179]

In November 2011, Belfast became the smallest city to host the MTV Europe Music Awards.[180] The event was made possible by the 11,000-seat Odyssey Arena (today the SSE Arena) which opened in 2000 at the entrance to the Titanic Quarter[181] A further large-scale venue is the Waterfront Hall, a multi-purpose conference and entertainment centre that first opened in 1997. The main circular Auditorium seats 2,241 and is based on the Berlin Philharmonic Hall.[182] In 2012, the Metropolitan Arts Centre, usually referred to as the MAC, was opened in the Cathedral Quarter, offering a performance mix of music, theatre, dance and visual art.[183]

The city has a number of community arts, and arts education, centres, among them the Crescent Arts Centre[184] in south Belfast, the Irish-language Cultúrlann McAdam Ó Fiaich[185] in west Belfast, The Duncairn[186] in north Belfast and, in the east of the city, EastSide Arts.[187]

Féile an Phobail, a community arts organisation born out of the Internment Commemorations in the west of the city, stages one of the largest community festivals in Europe.[188] It has grown from its original August Féile on the Falls Road, to a year-round programme with a broad range of arts events, talks and discussions.[189]

UNESCO City of Music edit

In November 2021, Belfast became the third city in the British Isles to be designated by UNESCO as City of Music (after Glasgow in 2008 and Liverpool in 2016) and is one of 59 cities worldwide participating in the UNESCO Creative Cities Network.[190][191]

The greater part of Belfast's music scene is accommodated in the city's pubs and clubs. Irish traditional music ("trad") is a staple, and is supported, along with Ulster-Scots snare drum and pipe music, by the city's TradFest summer school.[192][193]

Music offerings also draw on the legacy of the punk[194] and the underground club scene that developed during The Troubles[195] (associated with the groups Stiff Little Fingers and The Undertones, and celebrated in the award-winning 2013 film, Good Vibrations).[196]Snow Patrol's frontman Gary Lightbody led a line up of private donors that together with public funders established the Oh Yeah music centre in 2008.[197] The Cathedral Quarter non-profit supports young musicians and these have engaged with a range of genres including Alternative rock, Indie rock, Electronica, Post rock, Post punk, Crossover, and Experimental rock.

Queens University hosts the Sonic Arts Research Centre (SARC), an institute for music-based practice and research. Its purpose designed building, Sonic Laboratory and multichannel studios were opened by Karlheinz Stockhausen, the German composer and "father of electronic music",[198][199] in 2004.[200]

Media edit

 
Broadcasting House, Belfast, headquarters of the BBC in Northern Ireland

Belfast is the home of the Belfast Telegraph, Irish News, and The News Letter, the oldest English-language daily newspaper in the world still in publication.[201][202]

The city is the headquarters of BBC Northern Ireland, ITV station UTV and commercial radio stations Q Radio and U105. Two community radio stations, Blast 106 and Irish-language station Raidió Fáilte, broadcast to the city from west Belfast. Queen's Radio, a student-run radio station broadcasts from Queen's University Students' Union.

One of Northern Ireland's two community TV stations, NvTv, is based in the Cathedral Quarter of the city.. Broadcasting only over the Internet is Homely Planet, the Cultural Radio Station for Northern Ireland, supporting community relations.[203]

Parades edit

Since the lifting in 1872 of a twenty-year party processions ban, Orange parades in celebration of "the Twelfth" [of July] and the bonfires of the previous evening, the eleventh, have been a fixed fixture of the Belfast calendar.[204] On what became a public holiday in 1926,[205] Belfast and guest Orange lodges with their pipe, flute and drum bands muster at Carlisle Circus, and parade through the city centre passed the City Hall and out Lisburn Road to a gathering in "the field" at Barnett Demesne.[206] While some local feeder and return marches have a history of sectarian disturbance, in recent years, events have generally passed off without serious incident.[207]

In 2015, the Orange Order opened the Museum of Orange Heritage on the Cregagh Road in East Belfast with the aim of educating the wider public about "the origins, traditions and continued relevance" of the parading institution, .[208]

What it sometimes referred to as the Catholic equivalent the Orangemen,[209] the Ancient Order of Hibernians, confines its parades to home ground in west and north Belfast,[210] as do republicans commemorating the Easter Rising.[211] In August 1993, in a break with a history of nationalist exclusion from the city centre, a parade marking the introduction of internment in the 1971 proceeded up Royal Avenue toward the City Hall, where it was addressed by Sinn Féin president, Gerry Adams, in front of the statue of Queen Victoria.[212]

Since 1998, the Belfast City Council has funded a city-centre St. Patrick’s Day (March 17) celebration. It is organised by Féile an Phobail as a "carnival" complete with a parade featuring dancers, circus entertainers, floats, and giant puppets.[213] Critical of what they perceive as an evolving nationalist festival, unionists on the City Council observe that "a lot of the Protestant Unionist Loyalist (PUL) community will stay away from the city centre on St Patrick’s Day, the same as some stay away on the Twelfth of July".[214]

In 1991, Belfast hosted its first gay pride event. Belfast Pride, culminating in a city-centre parade at the end of July, is now one of the biggest annual festivals in the city and, according to its organisers, the largest LGBT+ festival in Ireland.[215][216]

The Irish Congress of Trade Unions organises an annual city-centre May Day march and rally.[217] The International Workers Day has been a public holiday since 1978.[218]

Demography edit

In 2021, there were 345,418 residents within the expanded 2015 Belfast local government boundary[7] and 634,600 in the Belfast Metropolitan Area,[226] approximately one third of Northern Ireland's 1.9 million population.

As with many cities, Belfast's inner city is currently characterised by the elderly, students and single young people, while families tend to live on the periphery. Socio-economic areas radiate out from the Central Business District, with a pronounced wedge of affluence extending out the Malone Road and Upper Malone Road to the south.[227] Deprivation levels are notable in the inner parts of the north and the west of the city. The areas around the Falls Road, Ardoyne and New Lodge (Catholic nationalist) and the Shankill Road (Protestant loyalist) experience some of the highest levels of social deprivation including higher levels of ill health and poor access to services. These areas remain firmly segregated, with 80 to 90 percent of residents being of the one religious designation.[228][229]

National Identity of Belfast City residents (2021)
Nationality Per cent
Irish
39.4%
British
37.0%
Northern Irish
27.5%

Consistent with the trend across all of Northern Ireland, the Protestant population within the city has been in decline, while the non-religious, other religious and Catholic population has risen. The 2021 census recorded the following: 43% of residents as Catholic, 12% as Presbyterian, 8% as Church of Ireland, 3% as Methodist, 6% as belonging to other Christian denominations, 3% to other religions and 24% as having either no religion or no declared religion.[157]

In terms of community background, 47.93% were deemed to belong to, or to have been brought up in, the Catholic faith and 36.45% in a Protestant or other Christian-related denomination.[230] The comparable figures in 2011 were 48.60% Catholic and 42.28% Protestant or other Christian-related denomination.[231]

With respondents free to indicate more than one national identity, in 2021 the largest national identity group was "Irish only" with 35% of the population, followed by "British only" 27%, "Northern Irish only" 17%, "British and "Northern Irish only" 7%, "Irish and Northern Irish only" 2%, "British, Irish and Northern Irish only" 2%, British and Irish less than 1% and Other identities with 10%.[157]

From the mid to late 19th century, there was a community of central European Jews[232] (among its distinguished members, Hamburg-born Gustav Wilhelm Wolff of Harland & Wolff) and of Italians[233] in Belfast.[234] Today, the largest immigrant groups are Poles, Chinese and Indians.[235][236] The 2011 census figures recorded a total non-white population of 10,219 or 3.3%,[236] while 18,420 or 6.6%[235] of the population were born outside the UK and Ireland.[235] Almost half of those born outside the British Isles lived in south Belfast, where they comprised 9.5% of the population.[235] The majority of the estimated 5,000 Muslims[237] and 200 Hindu families[238] living in Northern Ireland resided in the Greater Belfast area. In the 2021 census the percentage of the city's residents born outside the United Kingdom had risen to 9.8.[87]

Economy edit

 
Samson and Goliath, Harland & Wolff's gantry cranes

Employment profile edit

Services (including retail, health, professional & scientific) account for three quarters of jobs in Belfast. Only 6% remain in manufacturing. The balance is in distribution and construction.[239] In recent years, unemployment has been comparatively low (under 3% in the summer of 2023) for the UK. On the other hand, Belfast, has a high rate of people economically inactive (close to 30%).[240] It is a group, encompassing homemakers, full-time carers, students and retirees,[241] that in Belfast has been swollen by the exceptionally large proportion of the population (27%) with long-term health problems or disabilities[242] (and who, in Northern Ireland generally, are less likely to be employed than in other UK regions).[243]

Shipbuilding, aerospace and defence edit

Of Belfast's Victorian-era industry, little remains The last working linen factoryCopeland Linens Limited, based in the Shankill area—closed in 2013.[244] In recent years Harland and Wolff, which at peak production in the Second World War had employed around 35,000 people, has had a workforce of no more than two or three hundred refurbishing oil rigs and fabricating off-shore wind turbines. A £1.6 billion Royal Navy contract has offered the yard a new lease, returning it to shipbuilding in 2025 .[35]: 261–262 [245]

In 1936, Short & Harland Ltd, a joint venture of Short Brothers and Harland and Wolff began the manufacture of aircraft in the docks area. In 1989, the British government, which had nationalised the company during the Second World War, sold it to the Canadian aerospace company Bombardier. In 2020, it was sold on to Spirit AeroSystems.[246] Producing aircraft components it remains the largest manufacturing concern in Northern Ireland.[247]

Originating in the Short Brothers' missile division, since 2001 Thales Group[248] owned Thales Air Defence Limited[249] has been producing short range air defence and anti-tank missiles[250] (including the NLAW shoulder-launched system deployed against the Russian invasion by Ukraine).[251]

Fintech and cybersecurity edit

From the 1990s, Belfast established itself as a significant location for call centres and for other back-office services.[252] Attracting U.S. operators such as Citi, Allstate, Liberty Mutual, Aflac and FD Technologies (Kx Systems),[253] it as since been identified by the UK Treasury as "key fintech [financial technology] hub".[254] Fintech's key areas (its "ABCD") are artificial intelligence, blockchain, cloud computing, and big data.[255]

The sector's principal constraint, cyber security, has been addressed since 2004 by the Queens University Institute of Electronics, Communications and Information Technology (IECIT), and its Centre for Secure Information Technologies (CSIT).[256] The IECIT is the anchor tenant at Catalyst (science park)[257] in the Titanic Quarter, which hosts a cluster of companies seeking to offer innovative cyber-security solutions.[258]

Film edit

Between 2018 and 2023, film and television production based largely in Belfast, and occupying significant new studio capacity in the ports area, contributed £330m to Northern Ireland's economy.[259] There are two 8-acre media complexes (serviced by the adjacent City Airport): the Titanic Studios on Queen's Island (the Titanic Quarter) and across the Victoria Channel in Giant's Park on the Lough's north foreshore, the Belfast Harbour Studios.[260] Together they offer 226,000 ft² of studio space, plus offices and workshops,[261] and have attracted U.S. production companies such as Amazon, HBO (including all eight series of its fantasy drama Game of Thrones), Paramount, Playtone, Universal, and Warner Bros.[262][260]

At the beginning of 2024, Ulster University, in partnership with Belfast Harbour and supported by Northern Ireland Screen, announced an £72m investment to add to the complex a new virtual production, research and development, facility, Studio Ulster.[263][264] Additional studio space is available at Loop Studios (formerly Britvic) on the Castlereagh Road in East Belfast.[261][265]

Tourism and hospitality edit

 
Titanic Belfast, devoted to the Belfast-built RMS Titanic, opened in 2012.

Northern Ireland's peace dividend since the 1990s, which includes a marked increase in inward investment,[266][267] has contributed to a large-scale redevelopment of the city centre. Significant projects included Victoria Square, the Cathedral Quarter, Laganside with the Odyssey complex and the landmark Waterfront Hall, the new Titanic Quarter with its Titanic Belfast visitor attraction, and the development of the original Short's harbour airfield as George Best Belfast City Airport.

These developments reflect a boom in tourism (32 million visitors between 2011 and 2018),[35]: 179  and related hotel construction. This has included an entirely new phenomenon for Belfast: in 1999, the port received its first cruise ship.[268] In 2023, Belfast welcomed 153 calls, 8% up from the pre-pandemic record set in 2019. Ship from 32 different countries landed 320,000 passengers.[269]

Belfast has also seen growth of "conflict tourism".[35]: 186–191  To the dismay of some, "tourists take photos of the division lines that are not consigned to history, but are a part of living Belfast: children play football against the walls that tourists flock to. The places and the people themselves have become a spectacle, an attraction."[270] Tourist bosses and guides, however, are satisfied that the greater draw is city's other "must-see attractions",[271] and its "convivial food and nightlife scene".[272]

EU/GB Trade edit

Invest NI, Northern Ireland's economic development agency is pitching Belfast and its hinterland to foreign investors as "only region in the world able to trade goods freely with both GB and EU markets".[273] This follows the 2020 Northern Ireland Protocol and the 2023 Windsor Framework, agreements between the British government and European Union, whereby, post-Brexit, Northern Ireland would effectively remain within the European Single Market for goods while, in principle, retaining unfettered access to the British domestic market. Despite the DUP's derailment of devolved government in protest, local business leaders largely welcomed the new trade regime, hailing the promise of dual EU-GB access as a critical opportunity.[274][275]

In February 2024, the DUP consented to a return of the devolved Assembly and Executive on the understanding that neither the EU nor the British government would defend the integrity of their respective internal markets by conducting routine checks on the bulk of goods passing through Belfast, or other Northern Ireland, ports.[276]

Education edit

Primary and secondary education edit

Children from Catholic and Protestant homes in Belfast are taught, for the most part, separately on a pattern that, by the mid-nineteenth century, had been established throughout Ireland.[277] Primary and secondary education is divided between (Catholic) Maintained Schools and (non-Catholic/ "Protestant") Controlled Schools.[278] They are bound by the same curriculum, but their teaching staff are trained separately (in the university colleges of St Mary's and Stranmillis).[279][280]: 200–202 

Since the 1980s, two smaller school sectors have emerged: grant-maintained Integrated schools, which by design bring together children and staff from both communities, and Irish language medium schools[278]

The Belfast [later Royal Belfast] Academical Institution, opened its doors in 1810 with the intention, in the words of its founder, former United Irishman, William Drennan of being "perfectly unbiased by religious distinctions".[281] The principle was not embraced by the town's middle-classes: in practice "Inst" provided a grammar education to the town's Presbyterian families while Anglicans favoured the older Royal Belfast Academy (1785); Catholics, St Malachy's diocesan college (1833) and Wesleyans, Methodist College Belfast (1865).

Denominational lines have since blurred, with Catholics in particular moving into the controlled grammars.[282] But the presence of 18 selective grammar schools in Belfast is a further feature of post-primary education in Belfast that distinguishes it from that of comparable cities in Great Britain where academic selection was abandoned in the 1960s and 70s.[283] Partly prompted by the COVID disruption of external testing in 2021/22,[284] some the city's grammars have begun to review and amend the practice. It is not clear that this will be on terms that reduce the degree of social segregation they have represented within the system.[285]

In 2006, the Belfast Education and Library Board became part of the consolidated Education Authority for Northern Ireland. In Belfast, the Authority has responsibility for 156 primary,[286] and 48 secondary schools (including the 18 grammars).[287] The system is marked by stark inequalities in outcome.[288] Around 30% of school leavers in the city do not attain 5 GCSEs, A* - C (including Maths and English). For those in receipt of free school meals, the figure rises to over 50%.[289]

Further education edit

Belfast has two universities. Queen's University Belfast was founded as a college in 1845. In 1908, the Catholic bishops lifted their ban on attendance and Queen's was granted university status.[280]: 164, 166  It is a member of the Russell Group, an association of 24 leading research-intensive universities in the UK,[290] and is one of the largest universities in the UK with over 25,000 students – among them over 4,000 international students.[291]

Ulster University, created in its current form in 1984, is a multi-centre university with a campus on the edge of the Cathedral Quarter of Belfast. Since 2021, this original "Arts College" campus has undergone a £1.4bn expansion to accommodate offerings across all departments. The project promises to bring 15,500 staff and students into the city, and to generate 5,000 new jobs.[292][293]

Belfast Metropolitan College ("Belfast Met") is a further education college with three main campuses around the city, including several smaller buildings. Formerly known as Belfast Institute of Further and Higher Education, it specialises in vocational education. The college has over 53,000 students enrolled on full-time and part-time courses, making it one of the largest further education colleges in the UK and the largest in the island of Ireland.[294]

Governance edit

Belfast was granted borough status by James VI and I in 1613 and official city status by Queen Victoria in 1888.[295] Since 1973 it has been a local government district under local administration by Belfast City Council.[296]

Belfast has been represented in the British House of Commons since 1801, and in Northern Ireland Assembly, as presently constituted, since 1998.

Local government edit

 
Belfast City Hall

Belfast City Council is responsible for a range of powers and services, including land-use and community planning, parks and recreation, building control, arts and cultural heritage.[297] The city's principal offices are those of the Lord Mayor of Belfast, Deputy Lord Mayor and High Sheriff. Like other elected positions within the Council such as Committee chairs, these are filled since 1998 using the D'Hondt system so that in recent years the position has rotated between councillors from the three largest factions, Sinn Féin, the DUP and the Alliance Party.

The first Lord Mayor of Belfast in 1892, Daniel Dixon, like every mayor but one until 1997 (Alliance in 1979), was a unionist.[298] The first nationalist Lord Mayor of Belfast was Alban Maginness of the Social Democratic and Labour Party (SDLP) in 1997. The current Lord Mayor is Ryan Murphy of Sinn Féin, since 2011 the council's largest party. His duties include presiding over meetings of the council, receiving distinguished visitors to the city, representing and promoting the city on the national and international stage.[298]

In 1997, unionists lost overall control of Belfast City Council for the first time in its history, with the Alliance Party holding the balance of power. In 2023, unionists retained just 17 of 60 seats on the council, leaving nationalists (Sinn Féin and the SDLP) just 4 seats short of a majority.[299] In addition to the 11 Alliance members there are four other councillors, 3 Green and 1 People Before Profit, who refuse a nationalist/unionist designation.

Northern Ireland Assembly and Westminster edit

 
Stormont is home to the Northern Ireland Assembly.

As Northern Ireland's capital city, Belfast is host to the Northern Ireland Assembly at Stormont, the site of the devolved legislature for Northern Ireland. Belfast is divided into four Northern Ireland Assembly and UK parliamentary constituencies: Belfast North, Belfast West, Belfast South and Belfast East. All four extend beyond the city boundaries to include parts of Castlereagh, Lisburn and Newtownabbey districts. In United Kingdom elections, each constituency returns one MP, on a "first past the post" basis to Westminster. In NI Assembly elections each returns, on the basis of proportional representation, five MLAs to Stormont.

In the Northern Ireland Assembly Elections in 2022, Belfast elected 7 Sinn Féin, 5 DUP, 5 Alliance Party, 1 SDLP, 1 UUP and 1 PBPA MLAs.[300] In the 2017 UK general election, the DUP won all but the Sinn Féin stronghold of Belfast West. In the 2019 UK general election, they retained only Belfast East, losing Belfast North to Sinn Féin and Belfast South to the SDLP.

For the next elections the constituencies are redrawn, with Belfast South extended as Belfast South and Mid Down to include parts of Lagan Valley and Strangford.[301]

Infrastructure edit

Hospitals edit

The Belfast Health & Social Care Trust is one of five trusts that were created on 1 April 2007 by the Department of Health. Belfast contains most of Northern Ireland's regional specialist centres.[302]

The Royal Hospitals site in west Belfast (junction of Grosvenor and Falls roads) contains two hospitals. The Royal Victoria Hospital (its origins in a number of successive institutions, beginning in 1797 with The Belfast Fever Hospital)[303] provides both local and regional services. Specialist services include cardiac surgery, critical care and the Regional Trauma Centre.[304] The Children’s Hospital (Royal Belfast Hospital for Sick Children) provides general hospital care for children in Belfast and provides most of the paediatric regional specialities.[305]

The Belfast City Hospital (evolved from a 19th century workhouse and infirmary)[306] on the Lisburn Road is the regional specialist centre for haematology and is home to a najor cancer centre.[307] The Mary G McGeown Regional Nephrology Unit at the City Hospital is the kidney transplant centre and provides regional renal services for Northern Ireland.[308]Musgrave Park Hospital in south Belfast specialises in orthopaedics, rheumatology, sports medicine and rehabilitation. It is home to Northern Ireland's first Acquired Brain Injury Unit.[309]

The Mater Hospital (founded in 1883 by the Sisters of Mercy)[310] on the Crumlin Road provides a wide range of services, including acute inpatient, emergency and maternity services, to north Belfast and the surrounding areas.[311]

The Ulster Hospital, Upper Newtownards Road, Dundonald, on the eastern edge of the city, first founded as the Ulster Hospital for Women and Sick Children in 1872,[312] is the major acute hospital for the South Eastern Health and Social Care Trust. It delivers a full range of outpatient, inpatient and daycare medical and surgical services.[313]

Transport edit

 
Great Victoria Street railway station on Northern Ireland Railways

Belfast is a relatively car-dependent city by European standards, with an extensive road network including the 22.5 miles (36 km) M2 and M22 motorway route.[314]

Black taxis are common in the city, operating on a share basis in some areas.[315] These are outnumbered by private hire taxis. Bus and rail public transport in Northern Ireland is operated by subsidiaries of Translink. Bus services in the city proper and the nearer suburbs are operated by Translink Metro, with services focusing on linking residential districts with the city centre on 12 quality bus corridors running along main radial roads,[316]

More distant suburbs are served by Ulsterbus. Northern Ireland Railways provides suburban services along three lines running through Belfast's northern suburbs to Carrickfergus, Larne and Larne Harbour, eastwards towards Bangor and south-westwards towards Lisburn and Portadown. This service is known as the Belfast Suburban Rail system. Belfast is linked directly to Coleraine, Portrush and Derry. Belfast has a direct rail connection with Dublin called Enterprise operated jointly by NIR and the Irish rail company Iarnród Éireann.

 
George Best Belfast City Airport

The city has two airports: George Best Belfast City Airport, close to the city centre on the eastern shore of Belfast Lough and Belfast International Airport 30–40 minutes to the west to the west on the shore of Lough Neagh. Both operate UK domestic and European flights. The city is also served by Dublin Airport, two hours to the south, with direct inter-continental connections.

In addition to its extensive freight business, the port offers car-ferry sailings, operated by Stena Line, to Cairnryan in Scotland (5 Sailings Daily. 2 hours 22 minutes) and to Liverpool-Birkenhead (14 sailings weekly. 8 hours). The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company provides a seasonal connection to Douglas, Isle of Man.

The Glider bus service is a new form of transport in Belfast. Introduced in 2018, it is a bus rapid transit system linking East Belfast, West Belfast and the Titanic Quarter from the City Centre.[317] Using articulated buses, the £90 million service saw a 17% increase in its first month in Belfast, with 30,000 more people using the Gliders every week. The service is being recognised as helping to modernise the city's public transport.[318]

National Cycle Route 9 to Newry,[319] which will eventually connect with Dublin,[320] starts in Belfast.

Utilities edit

 
Silent Valley Reservoir, showing the brick-built overflow

Half of Belfast's water is supplied via the Aquarius pipeline from the Silent Valley Reservoir in County Down, created to collect water from the Mourne Mountains.[321] The other half is now supplied from Lough Neagh via Dunore Water Treatment Works in County Antrim[322] (and which, in recent years, has had to contend with the growth in the Lough of toxic cyanobacteria - or blue-green algae).[323] The citizens of Belfast pay for their water in their rates bill. Plans to bring in additional water tariffs were deferred by devolution in May 2007.[324]

Power is provided from a number of power stations via NIE Networks Limited transmission lines. (Just under a half of electricity consumption in Northern Ireland is generated from renewable sources).[325] Phoenix Natural Gas Ltd. started supplying customers in Larne and Greater Belfast with natural gas in 1996 via the newly constructed Scotland-Northern Ireland pipeline.[322] Rates in Belfast (and the rest of Northern Ireland) were reformed in April 2007. The discrete capital value system means rates bills are determined by the capital value of each domestic property as assessed by the Valuation and Lands Agency.[326]

Recreation and sports edit

Leisure centres edit

Belfast City Council owns and maintains 17 leisure centres across the city, run on its behalf by the non-profit social enterprise GLL under the ‘Better’ brand.[327] These include eight large multipurposed centres complete with swimming pools: Ballysillan Leisure Centre and Grove Wellbeing Centre in North Belfast; the Andersonstown, Falls, Shankill and Whiterock leisure centres in West Belfast; Templemore Baths and Lisnasharragh Leisure Centre in East Belfast, and close to the city centre in South Belfast, the Olympia Leisure Centre and Spa,[328]

Parks and gardens edit

 
The Palm House at the Botanic Gardens

Belfast has over forty parks. The oldest (1828) and one of the most popular parks Botanic Gardens[329] in the Queen's Quarter. Built in the 1830s and designed by Sir Charles Lanyon, its Palm House is one of the earliest examples of a curvilinear and cast iron glasshouse.[330] Other attractions in the park include the recently restored Tropical Ravine, a humid jungle glen built in 1889,[331] rose gardens and public events ranging from live opera broadcasts to pop concerts.[332]

The largest municipal park in the city, and closest to the city centre, lies on the right bank of Lagan. The 100-acres of Ormeau Park were opened to the public in 1871 on what was the last demesne of the town's former proprietors, the Chichesters, Marquesses of Donegall.[333]

In north Belfast, the Waterworks, two reservoirs to which the public have had access since 1897, are features of a park supporting angling and waterfowl.[334] In 1906, a further water park, Victoria, opened behind industrial dockland on what had been the eastern shore of the Lough.[335] It is now connected through east Belfast by the Connswater Community Greenway which offers 16 km of continuous cycle and walkway through east Belfast.[336]

The largest green conservation area within the city's boundaries is a 2,116 hectares patchwork of "parks, demesnes, woodland and meadows" stretching upriver along the banks of the Lagan river and canal;[120] Established in 1967, the Lagan Valley Regional Park envelopes in its course, Belvoir Park Forest, which contains ancient oaks and a 12th-century Norman Motte,[337] and Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park, whose International Rose Garden attracts thousands of visitors each July.[338]

Colin Glenn Forest Park,[339] the National Trust Divis and the Black Mountain Ridge Trail,[340] and Cave Hill Country Park.[341] offer panoramic views over Belfast and beyond from the west.[340] Climbing the Castlereagh Hills, the National Trust Lisnabreeny Cregagh Glen does the same from the east.[342]

Below Cave Hill, the council maintains one of the few local government-funded zoos in the British Isles. The Belfast Zoo houses more than 1,200 animals of 140 species including Asian elephants, Barbary lions, Malayan sun bears (one of the few in the United Kingdom), two species of penguin, a family of western lowland gorillas, a troop of common chimpanzees, a pair of red pandas, a pair of Goodfellow's tree-kangaroos and Francois' langurs. It carries out important conservation work and takes part in European and international breeding programmes which help to ensure the survival of many species under threat.[343]

Sports edit

 
Irish Football Association stadium Windsor Park

Belfast has several notable sports teams playing a diverse variety of sports such as football, Gaelic games, rugby, cricket, and ice hockey. The Belfast Marathon is run annually on May Day, The 41st Marathon in 2023, with related events (Wheelchair Race, Team Relay and 8 Mile Walk) attracted 15,000 participants.[344]

The Northern Ireland national football team plays its home matches at Windsor Park. Football clubs with stadia and training grounds in the city include: Linfield, Glentoran, Crusaders, Cliftonville, Donegal Celtic, Harland & Wolff Welders, Dundela, Knockbreda, PSNI, Newington, Sport & Leisure and Brantwood.[345]

Belfast is home to over twenty Gaelic football and hurling clubs.[346] Casement Park in west Belfast, home to the Antrim county teams, had a capacity of 31,500 making it the second largest Gaelic Athletic Association ground in Ulster.[347] Listed as one of the venues for the UK and Ireland’s successful UEFA Euro 2028 bid, with co-funding from the Irish government there are plans for a complete rebuild.[348] In May 2020, the foundation of East Belfast GAA returned Gaelic Games to East Belfast after decades of its absence in the area. The current club president is Irish-language enthusiast Linda Ervine who comes from a unionist background in the area. The team currently plays in the Down Senior County League.[349]

The 1999 Heineken Cup champions Ulster Rugby play at Ravenhill Stadium in the south of the city. Belfast has four teams in rugby's All-Ireland League: Belfast Harlequins in Division 1B; and Instonians, Queen's University and Malone in Division 2A.

Belfast is home to the Stormont cricket ground since 1949 and was the venue for the Irish cricket team's first ever One Day International against England in 2006.[350]

The 9,500 capacity SSE Arena accommodates the Belfast Giants, one of the biggest ice hockey clubs in the UK. Featuring Canadian, ex-NHL players, the club competes the British Elite Ice Hockey League.

Belfast was the home town of former Manchester United player George Best, the 1968 European Footballer of the Year, who died in November 2005. On the day he was buried in the city, 100,000 people lined the route from his home on the Cregagh Road to Roselawn cemetery.[351] Since his death the City Airport was named after him and a trust has been set up to fund a memorial to him in the city centre.[352] Other sportspeople celebrated in the city include double world snooker champion Alex "Hurricane" Higgins[353] and world champion boxers Wayne McCullough, Rinty Monaghan and Carl Frampton.[354]

Climate edit

At 54°35′49″N 05°55′45″W / 54.59694°N 5.92917°W / 54.59694; -5.92917, its northern latitude is characterised by short winter days and long summer evenings. During the winter solstice, the shortest day of the year, local sunset is before 16:00 while sunrise is around 08:45. At the summer solstice in June, the sun sets after 22:00 and rises before 05:00.[355]

For this northern latitude, thanks to the influence of the Gulf Stream and North Atlantic Drift, Belfast has a comparatively mild climate. In summer the temperatures rarely range above 25 °C (77 °F) or dip in winter below -5 °C (23 °F).[356][357] The maritime influence, also ensures that the city gets significant precipitation. On 157 days in an average year, rainfall is greater than 1 mm. Average annual rainfall is 846 millimetres (33.3 in),[358] less than areas of northern England or most of Scotland,[359] but higher than Dublin or the south-east coast of Ireland.[360]

With its moderate temperatures and abundant rainfall, Belfast's climate is defined as a temperate oceanic climate (Cfb in the Köppen climate classification system), a classification it shares with most of northwest Europe.[361]

Climate data for Belfast (Newforge),[b] elevation: 40 m (131 ft), 1991–2020 normals, extremes 1982–present
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 15.0
(59.0)
16.4
(61.5)
19.7
(67.5)
22.1
(71.8)
25.4
(77.7)
28.6
(83.5)
30.2
(86.4)
28.1
(82.6)
23.7
(74.7)
20.5
(68.9)
17.1
(62.8)
15.2
(59.4)
30.2
(86.4)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 8.2
(46.8)
8.8
(47.8)
10.5
(50.9)
12.8
(55.0)
15.7
(60.3)
17.2
(63.0)
19.7
(67.5)
19.4
(66.9)
17.3
(63.1)
13.8
(56.8)
10.7
(51.3)
8.4
(47.1)
13.7
(56.7)
Daily mean °C (°F) 5.2
(41.4)
5.5
(41.9)
6.8
(44.2)
8.8
(47.8)
11.4
(52.5)
14.0
(57.2)
15.6
(60.1)
15.4
(59.7)
13.5
(56.3)
10.4
(50.7)
7.4
(45.3)
5.4
(41.7)
9.9
(49.8)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 2.2
(36.0)
2.1
(35.8)
3.1
(37.6)
4.7
(40.5)
7.0
(44.6)
9.7
(49.5)
11.6
(52.9)
11.5
(52.7)
9.6
(49.3)
6.9
(44.4)
4.2
(39.6)
2.3
(36.1)
6.3
(43.3)
Record low °C (°F) −10.1
(13.8)
−7.1
(19.2)
−6.5
(20.3)
−3.8
(25.2)
−2.6
(27.3)
1.3
(34.3)
4.2
(39.6)
2.5
(36.5)
0.8
(33.4)
−3.0
(26.6)
−7.6
(18.3)
−13.5
(7.7)
−13.5
(7.7)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 88.5
(3.48)
70.3
(2.77)
71.4
(2.81)
60.4
(2.38)
59.6
(2.35)
69.0
(2.72)
73.6
(2.90)
85.0
(3.35)
69.6
(2.74)
95.8
(3.77)
102.3
(4.03)
93.3
(3.67)
938.7
(36.96)
Average precipitation days (≥ 1.0 mm) 14.4 12.7 12.6 11.3 11.5 11.4 13.0 13.5 11.6 13.8 15.5 14.8 156.2
Mean monthly sunshine hours 40.1 65.2 97.7 157.1 185.1 151.1 146.3 141.9 112.0 92.4 52.9 35.3 1,277
Source 1: Met Office[362]
Source 2: Starlings Roost Weather[363][364]

In fiction edit

Notable people edit

Georgian Belfast edit

Victorian Belfast edit

Early 20th century edit

Late 20th century edit

Twin towns – sister cities edit

Belfast City Council takes part in the twinning scheme,[365] and is twinned with the following sister cities:

Freedom of the City edit

Those who have received the Freedom of the City[367]

Notes edit

  1. ^ /-fɑːst/ for speakers with the Trap-bath split; /-fæst/ for speakers without it
  2. ^ Weather station is located 2.5 miles (4.0 km) from the Belfast city centre.

Bibliography edit

  • Jonathan Bardon (1982), Belfast An illustrated History. Belfast: Blackstaff Press, ISBN 0856402729
  • J. C. Beckett et al (1983,) Belfast, The Making of a City. Belfast: Appletree Press, ISBN 0862811007
  • Feargal Cochrane (2023), Belfast: The Story of a City and its People. Yale University Press. ISBN 978-0300264449
  • S. J. Connolly ed. (2012), Belfast 400: People, Place and History, Liverpool University Press. ISBN 9781846316357
  • Maurice Goldring (1991), Belfast, From Loyalty to Rebellion. London: Lawrence & Wishart, ISBN 97808531572281
  • Robert Johnstone (1990), Belfast, Portraits of a City, London: Barrie & Jenkins. ISBN 9780712637442
  • William Maguire (2009), Belfast, A History, Lancaster: Carnegie. ISBN 9781839361894
  • Bill Meulemans (2013), Belfast, Both Sides Now. Create Space. ISBN 9781479195411
  • Raymond O'Regan (2010), Hidden Belfast: Benevolence, Blackguards and Balloon Heads. Dublin: Mercier Press. ISBN 7981856356831
  • Raymond O'Regan, Arthur Magee (2014), The Little Book of Belfast. The History Press. ISBN 9781845888039
  • Marcus Patton (1993), Central Belfast, An Historical Gazetteer. Belfast: Ulster Architectural Heritage Society. ISBN 0900457449

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belfast, this, article, about, city, northern, ireland, other, uses, disambiguation, fast, ɑː, fahst, from, irish, béal, feirste, bʲeːlˠ, ˈfʲɛɾˠ, ʃtʲə, capital, city, principal, port, northern, ireland, standing, banks, river, lagan, connected, open, through, . This article is about the city in Northern Ireland For other uses see Belfast disambiguation Belfast ˈ b ɛ l f ae s t BEL fast f ɑː s t fahst a from Irish Beal Feirste bʲeːlˠ ˈfʲɛɾˠ e ʃtʲe 5 6 is the capital city and principal port of Northern Ireland standing on the banks of the River Lagan and connected to the open sea through Belfast Lough and the North Channel It is second to Dublin as the largest city on the island of Ireland with a population in 2021 of 345 418 7 and a metro area population of 671 559 8 BelfastIrish Beal FeirsteScots BilfawstCapital citySkyline and buildings throughout the City of BelfastCoat of arms with motto Pro Tanto Quid Retribuamus Latin What shall we give in return for so much Show map of the United KingdomLocation within Northern IrelandShow map of Northern IrelandArea51 16 1 sq mi 132 5 km2 PopulationMetropolitan area 671 559 2011 2 Local Government District 345 418 2021 3 City Limits 293 298 2021 4 Irish grid referenceJ338740DistrictCity of BelfastCountyAntrim DownCountryNorthern IrelandSovereign stateUnited KingdomPost townBELFASTPostcode districtBT1 BT17 BT29 part BT36 part BT58Dialling code028PoliceNorthern IrelandFireNorthern IrelandAmbulanceNorthern IrelandUK ParliamentBelfast North SF Belfast South SDLP Belfast East DUP Belfast West SF NI AssemblyBelfast NorthBelfast SouthBelfast EastBelfast WestWebsitebelfastcity wbr gov wbr ukList of places UK Northern Ireland 54 35 47 N 05 55 48 W 54 59639 N 5 93000 W 54 59639 5 93000Established as an English settlement early in the 17th century its growth was driven by an influx of Scottish descendant Presbyterians Their disaffection with Ireland s Anglican establishment contributed to the rebellion of 1798 and to the union with Great Britain later regarded as a key to the town s industrial transformation When granted city status in 1888 Belfast was the world s largest centre of linen manufacture and by the 1900s her shipyards were building up to a quarter of total United Kingdom tonnage Sectarian tensions accompanied the growth of an Irish Catholic population drawn by mill and factory employment from western districts Heightened by division over Ireland s future in the United Kingdom these twice erupted in periods of sustained violence in 1920 22 as Belfast emerged as the capital of the six northeast counties retaining the British connection and over three decades from the late 1960s during which the British Army was continually deployed on the streets A legacy of conflict is the barrier reinforced separation of Protestant and Catholic working class districts Since the 1998 Belfast Agreement the electoral balance in the once unionist controlled city has shifted albeit with no overall majority in favour of Irish nationalists At the same time new immigrants are adding to the growing number of residents unwilling to identify with either of the two communal traditions Belfast has seen significant services sector growth with important contributions from financial technology fintech from tourism and with facilities in the redeveloped Harbour Estate from film It retains a port with commercial and industrial docks including a reduced Harland amp Wolff shipyard and aerospace and defence contractors Post Brexit Belfast and Northern Ireland remain uniquely within both the British domestic and European Single trading areas for goods The city is served by two airports George Best Belfast City Airport on the Lough shore and Belfast International Airport 15 miles 24 kilometres west of the city It supports two universities on the north side of the city centre Ulster University and on the southside the longer established Queens University Since 2021 Belfast has been a UNESCO designated City of Music Contents 1 City s history 1 1 Name 1 2 Early settlements 1 3 Developing port radical politics 1 4 Industrial expansion sectarian division 1 5 The Blitz and post war development 1 6 The Troubles 1 7 21st century 2 Cityscape 2 1 Location and topography 2 2 North Belfast and Shankill 2 3 West Belfast 2 4 South Belfast 2 5 East Belfast 2 6 City Centre 2 6 1 Architectural heritage 2 6 2 Redevelopment 2 6 3 Rough sleeping and homelessness 2 7 The Quarters 3 Culture 3 1 Arts venues and festivals 3 2 UNESCO City of Music 3 3 Media 3 4 Parades 4 Demography 5 Economy 5 1 Employment profile 5 2 Shipbuilding aerospace and defence 5 3 Fintech and cybersecurity 5 4 Film 5 5 Tourism and hospitality 5 6 EU GB Trade 6 Education 6 1 Primary and secondary education 6 2 Further education 7 Governance 7 1 Local government 7 2 Northern Ireland Assembly and Westminster 8 Infrastructure 8 1 Hospitals 8 2 Transport 8 3 Utilities 9 Recreation and sports 9 1 Leisure centres 9 2 Parks and gardens 9 3 Sports 10 Climate 11 In fiction 12 Notable people 12 1 Georgian Belfast 12 2 Victorian Belfast 12 3 Early 20th century 12 4 Late 20th century 13 Twin towns sister cities 14 Freedom of the City 15 Notes 16 Bibliography 17 References 18 External linksCity s history editMain article History of Belfast Name edit nbsp A 1685 plan of Belfast by the military engineer Thomas Phillips showing the town s ramparts and Lord Chichester s castle which was destroyed in a fire in 1708The name Belfast derives from the Irish Beal Feirste Irish pronunciation bʲeːlˠ ˈfʲɛɾˠ e ʃtʲe 6 Mouth of the Farset 9 a river whose name in the Irish Feirste refers to a sandbar or tidal ford 10 This was formed where the river ran until culverted late in the 18th century down High Street 11 into Lagan It was at this crossing located under or close to the current Queen s Bridge that the early settlement developed 12 74 77 The compilers of Ulster Scots use various transcriptions of local pronunciations of Belfast with which they sometimes are also content 13 14 including Bilfawst 15 16 Bilfaust 17 or Baelfawst 18 Early settlements edit The site of Belfast has been occupied since the Bronze Age The Giant s Ring a 5 000 year old henge is located near the city 12 42 45 19 and the remains of Iron Age hill forts can still be seen in the surrounding hills At the beginning of the 14th century Papal tax rolls record two churches at Kock in the east the Chapel of Dundela 20 connected by some accounts to the 7th century evangelist St Colmcille 21 11 and the Chapel of the Ford which may have been a successor to a much older parish church on the present Shankill Seanchill Old Church Road 12 63 64 dating back to the 9th 22 and possibly to St Patrick in the mid 5th century 23 A Norman settlement at the ford comprising the parish church now St George s a watermill and a small fort 24 was an outpost of Carrickfergus Castle Established in the late 12th century 11 miles 18 km out along the north shore of the Lough Carrickfergus was to remain the principal English foothold in the north east until the scorched earth Nine Years War at the end of the 16th century broke the remaining Irish power the O Neills 25 Developing port radical politics edit With a commission from James I in 1613 Sir Arthur Chichester undertook the Plantation of Belfast and the surrounding area attracting mainly English and Manx settlers 26 The subsequent arrival of Scottish Presbyterians embroiled Belfast in its only recorded siege denounced from London by John Milton as ungrateful and treacherous guests 27 in 1649 the newcomers were temporarily expelled by an English Parliamentarian army 28 21 29 In 1689 Catholic Jacobite forces briefly in command of the town 30 abandoned it in advance of the landing at Carrickfergus of William Prince of Orange who proceeded through the Belfast to his celebrated victory on 12 July 1690 at the Boyne 31 Together with French Huguenots the Scots introduced the production of linen a flax spinning industry that in the 18th century carried Belfast trade to the Americas 32 Fortunes were made carrying rough linen clothing and salted provisions to the slave plantations of the West Indies sugar and rum to Baltimore and New York and for the return to Belfast flaxseed and tobacco from the colonies 33 From the 1760s profits from the trade financed improvements in the town s commercial infrastructure including the Lagan Canal new docks and quays and the construction of the White Linen Hall which together attracted to Belfast the linen trade that had formerly gone through Dublin Abolitionist sentiment however defeated the proposal of the greatest of the merchant houses Cunningham and Greg in 1786 to commission ships for the Middle Passage 34 nbsp Volunteer Corps parade down High Street Bastille Day 1792As Dissenters from the established Anglican church with its episcopacy and ritual Presbyterians were conscious of sharing if only in part the disabilities of Ireland s dispossessed Roman Catholic majority and of being denied representation in the Irish Parliament Belfast s two MPs remained nominees of the Chichesters Marquesses of Donegall With their emigrant kinsmen in America the region s Presbyterians were to share a growing disaffection from the Crown 35 55 61 36 When early in the American War of Independence Belfast Lough was raided by the privateer John Paul Jones the townspeople assembled their own Volunteer militia Formed ostensibly for defence of the Kingdom Volunteer corps were soon pressing their own protest against taxation without representation Further emboldened by the French Revolution a more radical element in the town the Society of United Irishmen called for Catholic emancipation and a representative national government 37 In hopes of French assistance in 1798 the Society organised a republican insurrection The rebel tradesmen and tenant farmers were defeated north of the town at the Battle of Antrim and to the south at the Battle of Ballynahinch 38 Britain seized on the rebellion to abolish the Irish Parliament unlamented in Belfast and to incorporate Ireland in a United Kingdom 39 In 1832 British parliamentary reform permitted the town its first electoral contest 40 an occasion for an early and lethal sectarian riot 41 87 Industrial expansion sectarian division edit nbsp High Street c 1906While other Irish towns experienced a loss of manufacturing and after a cotton boom and bust from the 1820s Belfast underwent rapid industrial expansion As the global leader in the production of linen goods mill and finishing work largely employing women and children 42 it won the moniker Linenopolis 43 Shipbuilding led the development of heavier industry 44 By the 1900s her shipyards were building up to a quarter of the total United Kingdom tonnage 45 This included from the yard of Harland amp Wolff the ill fated RMS Titanic at the time of her launch in 1911 the largest ship afloat 46 Other major export industries included textile machinery rope tobacco and mineral waters 21 59 88 Industry drew in a new Catholic population settling largely in the west of the town refugees from a rural poverty intensified by Belfast s mechanisation of spinning and weaving and in the 1840s by famine 47 The plentiful supply of cheap labour helped attract English and Scottish capital to Belfast but it was also a cause of insecurity 48 Protestant workers organised and dominated the apprenticed trades 49 and gave a new lease of life to the once largely rural Orange Order 50 51 Sectarian tensions which frequently broke out in riots and workplace expulsions were also driven by the constitutional question the prospect of a restored Irish parliament in which Protestants and northern industry feared being a minority interest 49 On 28 September 1912 unionists massed at Belfast s City Hall to sign the Ulster Covenant pledging to use all means which may be found necessary to defeat the present conspiracy to set up a Home Rule Parliament in Ireland 52 This was followed by the drilling and eventual arming of a 100 000 strong Ulster Volunteer Force UVF 53 The immediate crisis was averted by the onset of the Great War The UVF formed the 36th Ulster Division whose sacrifices in the Battle of the Somme continue to be commemorated in the city by unionist and loyalist organisations 54 In 1920 22 as Belfast emerged as the capital of the six counties remaining as Northern Ireland in the United Kingdom there was widespread violence 8 000 disloyal workers were driven from their jobs in the shipyards 55 in addition to Catholics rotten Prods Protestants whose labour politics disregarded sectarian distinctions 56 104 108 Gunbattles grenade attacks and house burnings contributed to as many as 500 deaths 57 A curfew remained in force until 1924 58 The lines drawn saw off the challenge to unionist unity posed by labour industry had been paralysed by strikes in 1907and again in 1919 59 Until troubles returned at the end of the 1960s it was not uncommon in Belfast for the Ulster Unionist Party to have its council and parliamentary candidates returned unopposed 60 61 In 1932 the opening of the new buildings for Northern Ireland s devolved Parliament at Stormont 62 was overshadowed by the protests of the unemployed and ten days of running street battles with the police The government conceded increases in Outdoor Relief but labour unity was short lived 41 219 220 In 1935 celebrations of King George V s Jubilee and of the annual Twelfth were followed by deadly riots and expulsions a sectarian logic that extended itself to the interpretation of darkening events in Europe 41 226 233 Labour candidates found their support for the anti clerical Spanish Republic characterised as another instance of No Popery 63 Today the cause of the republic in the Spanish Civil War is commemorated by a No Pasaran stained glass window in City Hall 64 In 1938 nearly a third of industrial workers were unemployed malnutrition was a major issue and at 9 6 the city s infant mortality rate compared with 5 9 in Sheffield England was among the highest in United Kingdom 65 The Blitz and post war development edit Main article Belfast Blitz nbsp Aftermath of the Blitz in May 1941In the spring of 1941 the German Luftwaffe appeared twice over Belfast In addition to the shipyards and the Short amp Harland aircraft factory the Belfast Blitz severely damaged or destroyed more than half the city s housing stock and devastated the old town centre around High Street 66 In the greatest loss of life in any air raid outside of London more than a thousand people were killed 67 At the end of World War II the Unionist government undertook programmes of slum clearance the Blitz had exposed the uninhabitable condition of much of the city s housing which involved decanting populations out of mill and factory built red brick terraces and into new peripheral housing estates 68 69 At the same time a British funded welfare state revolutionised access to education and health care 70 The resulting rise in expectations together with the uncertainty caused by the decline of the city s Victorian era industries contributed to growing protest and counter protest in the 1960s over the Unionist government s record on civil and political rights 71 The Troubles edit Main article The Troubles nbsp Memorial mural Shankill RoadFor reasons that nationalists and unionists dispute 72 the public protests of the late 1960s soon gave way to communal violence in which as many as 60 000 people were intimidated from their homes 73 70 and to loyalist and republican paramilitarism Introduced onto the streets in August 1969 the British Army committed to the longest continuous deployment in its history Operation Banner Beginning in 1970 with the Falls curfew and followed in 1971 by internment this included counterinsurgency measures directed chiefly at the Provisional Irish Republican Army PIRA who characterised their operations including the bombing of Belfast s commercial centre as a struggle against British occupation 74 75 Preceded by loyalist and republican ceasefires the 1998 Good Friday Belfast Agreement returned a new power sharing legislative assembly and executive to Stormont 76 In the intervening years in Belfast some 20 000 people had been injured and 1 500 killed 73 73 77 nbsp Memorial mural BallymurphyEighty five percent of the conflict related deaths had occurred within 1 000 metres of the communal interfaces largely in the north and west of the city 73 73 The security barriers erected at these interfaces are an enduring physical legacy of the Troubles 78 The 14 neighbourhoods they separate are among the 20 most deprived wards in Northern Ireland 79 In May 2013 the Northern Ireland Executive committed to the removal of all peace lines by mutual consent 80 81 The target date of 2023 was passed with only a small number dismantled 82 83 The more affluent districts escaped the worst of the violence but the city centre was a major target This was especially so during the first phase of the PIRA campaign in the early 1970s when the organisation hoped to secure quick political results through maximum destruction 78 331 332 Including car bombs and incendiaries between 1969 and 1977 the city experienced 2 280 explosions 28 58 In addition to the death and injury caused they accelerated the loss of the city s Victorian fabric 84 21st century edit Since the turn of the century the loss of employment and population in the city centre has been reversed 85 This reflects the growth of the service economy for which a new district has been developed on former dockland the Titanic Quarter The growing tourism sector paradoxically lists as attractions the murals and peace walls that echo the violence of the past 78 350 352 In recent years Troubles tourism 35 180 189 has presented visitors with new territorial markers flags murals and graffiti in which loyalists and republicans take opposing sides in the Israeli Palestinian conflict 86 The demographic balance of some areas has been changed by immigration according to the 2021 census just under 10 of the city s population was born outside the British Isles 87 by local differences in births and deaths between Catholics and Protestants and by a growing number of particularly younger people no longer willing to self identify on traditional lines 69 In 1997 unionists lost overall control of Belfast City Council for the first time in its history The election in 2011 saw Irish nationalist councillors outnumber unionist councillors for the first time with Sinn Fein becoming the largest party and the cross community Alliance Party holding the balance of power 88 In the 2016 Brexit referendum Belfast s four parliamentary constituencies returned a substantial majority 60 percent for remaining within the European Union as did Northern Ireland as a whole 55 8 the only UK region outside London and Scotland to do so 89 In February 2022 the Democratic Unionist Party which had actively campaigned for Brexit withdrew from the power sharing executive and collapsed the Stormont institutions to protest the 2020 UK EU Northern Ireland Protocol With the promise of equal access to the British and European markets this designates Belfast as a point of entry to the European Single Market within whose regulatory framework local producers will continue to operate 90 After two years the standoff was resolved with an agreement to eliminate routine checks on UK destined goods 91 nbsp City quays and Lagan WeirCityscape editLocation and topography edit nbsp Satellite image of Belfast with LoughBelfast is at the mouth of the River Lagan at the head of Belfast Lough open through the North Channel to the Irish Sea and to the North Atlantic In the course of the 19th century the location s estuarine features were re engineered With dredging and reclamation the lough was made to accommodate a deep sea port and extensive shipyards 92 The lagan was banked in 1994 a weir raised its water level to cover what remained of the tidal mud flats 93 and its various tributaries were culverted 94 on the model pioneered in 2008 by the Connswater Community Greenway some are now being considered for daylighting 95 It remains the case that much of the city centre is built on an estuarine bed of sleech silt peat mud and a source the city s ubiquitous red brick soft clay that presents a challenge for high rise construction 96 It was this soft foundation that persuaded St Anne s Cathedral to abandon plans for a bell tower and in 2007 to substitute a lightweight steel spire 97 The city centre is also subject to tidal flood risk Rising sea levels could mean that without significant investment flooding in the coming decades will be persistent 98 The city is overlooked on the County Antrim side to the north and northwest by a precipitous basalt escarpment the near continuous line of Divis Mountain 478m Black Mountain 389m and Cavehill 368m whose heathery slopes and hanging fields are visible from almost any part of the city 92 13 From County Down side on the south and south east it is flanked by the lower lying Castlereagh and Hollywood hills The sand and gravel Malone Ridge extends up river to the south west North Belfast and Shankill edit From 1820 Belfast began to spread rapidly beyond its 18th century limits To the north it stretched out along roads which drew into the town migrants from Scots settled hinterland of County Antrim 48 Largely Presbyterian they enveloped a number of Catholic occupied mill row clusters New Lodge Ardoyne and the Marrowbone 99 100 Together with areas of more substantial housing in the Oldpark district these are wedged between Protestant working class housing stretching from Tiger s Bay out the Shore Road on one side and up the Shankill the original Antrim Road on the other 101 The Greater Shankill area including Crumlin and Woodvale is over the line from the Belfast North parliamentary assembly constituency but is physically separated from the rest of Belfast West by an extensive series of separation barriers 102 peace walls owned together with five daytime gates into the Falls area by the Department of Justice 103 These include Cupar Way where tourists are informed that at 45 feet the barrier is three times higher than the Berlin Wall and has been in place for twice as long 104 With other working class districts Shankill suffered from the collapse of old industrial Belfast 105 But it was also greatly affected from the 1960s by the city s most ambitious programme of slum clearance Red brick two up two down terraced streets typical of 19th century working class housing were replaced with flats maisonettes and car parks but few facilities In a period of twenty years due largely to redevelopment 50 000 residents left the area leaving an aging population of 26 000 106 105 and more than 100 acres of wasteland 107 Meanwhile road schemes including the terminus of the M1 motorway and the Westlink demolished a mixed dockland community Sailortown and severed the streets linking the Shankill area and the rest of both north and west Belfast to the city centre 108 109 New green field housing estates were built on the outer edges of the city The onset of the Troubles overwhelmed attempts to promote these as mixed neighbourhoods so that the largest of these developments on the city s northern edge Rathcoole rapidly solidified as a loyalist community 110 In 2004 it was estimated that 98 of public housing in Belfast was divided along religious lines 111 Among the principal landmarks of north Belfast are the Crumlin Road Gaol 1845 now a major visitor attraction the Clonard Monastery 1890 the Waterworks Park 1889 and Belfast Zoo 1934 West Belfast edit In the mid 19th century rural poverty and famine drove large numbers of Catholic tenant farmers landless labourers and their families toward Belfast Their route brought them down Falls Road and into what are now remnants of an older Catholic enclave around St Mary s Church the town s first Catholic chapel opened in 1784 with Presbyterian subscriptions 112 and Smithfield Market 48 Eventually an entire west side of the city stretching up the Falls Road and out passed Andersonstown and encompassing the new housing estates built 1950s and 60s along the Springfield Road Highfield New Barnsley Ballymurphy Whiterock and Turf Lodge became near exclusively Catholic and in political terms nationalist Reflecting the nature of available employment as mill workers domestics and shop assistants the population initially was disproportionately female Further opportunities for women on Falls Road arose through developments in education and public health In 1900 the Dominican Order opened St Mary s Teacher Training College and in 1903 King Edward VII opened the Royal Victoria Hospital at the junction with the Grosvenor Road 113 Extensively redeveloped and expanded the hospital has a staff of more than 8 500 114 Landmarks in the area include the Gothic revival St Peter s Cathedral 1866 signature twin spires added in 1886 115 the Conway Mill 1853 1901 re developed as a community enterprise arts and education centre in 1983 116 St Malachy s College 1833 and best known for its republican graves Milltown Cemetery 1869 The areas greatest visitor attraction are its wall and gable end murals In contrast to those to those in loyalist areas where Israel is typically the only outside reference these range more freely beyond the local conflict frequently expressing solidarity with Palestinians with Cuba and with Basque and Catalan separatists 117 118 South Belfast edit West Belfast is separated from South Belfast and from the otherwise abutting loyalist districts of Sandy Row and the Donegall Road by rail lines the MI Motorway to Dublin and the west industrial and retail parks and the remnants of the Blackstaff Owenvarra bog meadows Belfast began stretching up river in the 1840s and 50s out the Ormeau and Lisburn roads and between them running along a ridge of higher ground the Malone Road From leafy avenues of increasingly substantial and in the course of time mixed housing the Upper Malone broadened out into areas of parkland and villas Further out still where they did not survive as public parks from the 1960s the great house demesnes of the city s former mill owners and industrialists were developed for public housing loyalist estates such as Seymour Hill and Belvoir Meanwhile in Malone and along the river embankments new houses and apartment blocks have been squeezed in increasing the general housing density 119 Beyond the Queens University area the area s principal landmarks are the 15 storey tower block of Belfast City Hospital 1986 on the Lisburn Road and the Lagan Valley Regional Park through which a towpath extends from the City centre quayside to Lisburn 120 Northern Ireland s three permanent diplomatic missions are situated on the Malone Road the consulates of China 121 Poland 122 and the United States 123 East Belfast edit The first district on the right bank of the Lagan the County Down side to be incorporated in Belfast was Ballymacarrett after 1868 41 124 Harland and Wolff whose gantry cranes Samson amp Goliath tower over the area was long the mainstay of employment although less securely so for the townland s Catholics In 1970 when the yard still had a workforce of 10 000 only 400 Catholics were employed 41 280 Tolerated in periods of expansion as navvies and casual labourers 56 87 88 they concentrated in a small enclave the Short Strand which has continued into this century to feature as sectarian flashpoint 125 126 Home to around 2 500 people it is the only distinctly nationalist area in the east of the river 127 East Belfast developed from the Queens Bridge 1843 through Ballymacarrett east along the Newtownards Road and north along the east shore of the Lough up the Holywood Road and from the Albert Bridge 1890 south east out the Cregagh and Castlereagh roads The further out the more substantial and less religiously segregated the housing until again encountering the city s outer ring of public housing estates loyalist Knocknagoney Lisnasharragh and Tullycarnet This century efforts have been made to add to East Belfast s two obvious visitor attractions Samson amp Goliath the banana yellow cranes date only from the early 1970s 56 79 and the Parliament Buildings at Stormont What is marketed now as EastSide features at the intersection of the Connswater and Comber Greenways and next to the EastSide Visitor Centre CS Lewis Square 2017 named and themed in honour of the local author of The Chronicles of Narnia 128 Next to the former the Harland amp Wolff Drawing Offices now an hotel stands the cultural nucleus to Titanic Quarter Titanic Belfast 2012 whose interactive galleries tell the liner s ill fated story 129 City Centre edit Belfast City Centre is roughly bounded by the ring roads constructed since the 1970s the M3 which sweeps across the dockland to the north the Westlink that connects to the M1 for points south and west and with less certainty the Bruce Street and Bankmore connectors that tie back toward the Lagan at the Gasworks Business Park and the beginning of the Ormeau Road This embraces the Markets the one remaining inner city area of housing 130 Of the various markets including those for the sale and shipping of livestock from which it derives its name only one survives the former produce market St George s 131 now a food and craft market popular with visitors to the city 132 nbsp Belfast Charitable Society Clifton House 1774 Architectural heritage edit Among surviving elements of the pre Victorian town are the Belfast Entries 17th century alleyways off High Street including in Winecellar Entry White s Tavern rebuilt 1790 the elliptical First Presbyterian Non Subscribing Church 1781 83 in Rosemary Street whose members led the abolitionist charge against Greg and Cunningham 133 the Assembly Rooms 1769 1776 1845 on Bridge Street St George s Church of Ireland 1816 on the High Street site of the old Corporation Church and although cut off by arterial roads the oldest public building in Belfast Clifton House 1771 74 the Belfast Charitable Society poorhouse on North Queen Street In addition there are small sets of city centre Georgian terraces 134 nbsp Scottish Provident Institution 1902Of the much larger Victorian city a substantial legacy has survived the Blitz The Troubles and planning and development Among the more notable examples 134 are St Malachy s Roman Catholic Church 1844 and the original college building of Queen s University Belfast 1849 both in a Tudor style the Palm House in the Botanic Gardens 1852 the Renaissance revival Union Theological College 1853 and Ulster Bank now Merchant Hotel 1860 the Italianate Ulster Hall 1862 and the National Trust restored ornate Crown Liquor Saloon 1885 1898 a setting for the classic film Odd Man Out starring James Mason 135 the oriental themed Grand Opera House 1895 bombed several times during the Troubles 136 and the Renaissance and Baroque revival Scottish Provident Institution 1902 The Baroque revival City Hall was finished in 1906 on the site of the former White Linen Hall and was built to reflect Belfast s city status granted by Queen Victoria in 1888 Its Edwardian design influenced the Victoria Memorial in Calcutta India and Durban City Hall in South Africa 137 138 The dome is 173 ft 53 m high and figures above the door state Hibernia encouraging and promoting the Commerce and Arts of the City 139 The Royal Courts of Justice and St Anne s Church of Ireland Cathedral are of the same period Redevelopment edit The opening Victoria Square Shopping Centre in 2008 was to symbolize the rebound of the city centre since its days as a restricted security zone during the Troubles 140 But retail footfall in the centre is limited by competition with out of town shopping centres and with internet retailing As of November 2023 footfall had not recovered pre COVID pandemic levels 141 There are compensating trends the growth in tourism and hospitality which has included a sustained boom in hotel construction 142 The City Council also talks of a residential led regeneration 143 144 New townhouse and apartments schemes are being developed for the city s quays 145 and for Titanic Quarter 146 The completion in 2023 of Ulster University s enhanced Belfast campus in one of the largest higher education capital builds in Europe 147 and the determination of Queen s University to compete with the private sector in the provision of student housing 148 has fostered the construction downtown of multiple new student residences 149 Rough sleeping and homelessness edit People can be found sleeping rough on the streets of the city centre Numbers while growing may be comparatively small for a city of its size in the British Isles In 2022 counts and estimates by the Northern Ireland Housing Executive identified a total of 26 rough sleepers in Belfast 150 This is against a background in 2023 of 2 317 people 0 67 of residents presenting as homeless many of whom are in temporary accommodation and shelters 151 Such figures however do not include all those living in severely overcrowded conditions involuntarily sharing with other households on a long term basis or sleeping rough in hidden locations 152 153 The Quarters edit nbsp Aerial view of Belfast 2004 nbsp St Anne s CathedralSince 2001 buoyed by increasing numbers of tourists the city council has promoted a number of cultural quarters The Cathedral Quarter comprises much of Belfast s old trade and warehousing district in the narrow streets and entries around St Anne s Cathedral with a concentration of bars beer gardens clubs and restaurants including two establishments claiming descent from the early town White s and The Duke of York 154 and performance spaces most notably the Black Box and Oh Yeah 155 156 It hosts a yearly visual and performing arts festival The adjoining Custom House Square is one of the city s main outdoor venues for free concerts and street entertainment Without defined geographical boundaries the Gaeltacht Quarter encompasses Irish speaking Belfast According to the 2021 census 15 5 of people in the city have some knowledge of Irish 4 speak it daily 157 It is generally understood as an area around the Falls Road in west Belfast served by the Culturlann McAdam o Fiaich cultural centre 158 159 It can be said to include at the Skainos Centre in unionist east Belfast Turas a project that promotes Irish through night classes and cultural events in the belief that the language belongs to all 160 The Linen Quarter an area south of City Hall once dominated by linen warehouses now includes in addition to cafes bars and restaurants a dozen hotels including the 23 storey Grand Central Hotel and the city s two principal Victorian era cultural venues the Grand Opera House and the Ulster Hall 161 Moving further south along the so called Golden Mile of bars and clubs through Shaftesbury Square there is the Queen s University Quarter In addition to the university spread over 250 buildings of which 120 are listed as being of architectural merit 162 it is home to Botanic Gardens and the Ulster Museum 163 Finally the Titanic Quarter covers 0 75 km2 185 acres of reclaimed land adjacent to Belfast Harbour formerly known as Queen s Island Named after RMS Titanic launched here in 1911 164 work began in 2003 to transform some former shipyard land into one of the largest waterfront developments in Europe 165 The current area houses Titanic Belfast the Public Records Office of Northern Ireland PRONI two hotels and multiple condo towers and shops and the Titanic film Studios 166 Culture editMain article Culture of Belfast Arts venues and festivals edit nbsp True to Our Words Christina Angelina 2015 167 Donegall Street street art in Belfast has moved with political developments and is facilitating a conscious cultural rebranding of the city 168 From Georgian Belfast the city retains a civic legacy In addition to Clifton House 169 Belfast Charitable Society 1774 this includes the Linen Hall Library 170 Belfast Society for Promoting Knowledge 1788 the Ulster Museum founded by the Belfast Natural History Society as the Belfast Municipal Museum and Art Gallery in 1833 and the Botanic Gardens 171 established in 1828 by the Belfast Botanic and Horticultural Society 171 These remain important cultural venues in the case of the Gardens for outdoor festivities including the Belfast Mela the city s annual celebration of global cultures 172 Of the many stage venues built in the nineteenth century and film theatres built in the twentieth there remains the Ulster Hall 1862 173 which hosts concerts including those of the Ulster Orchestra classical recitals and party political meetings the Grand Opera House 174 1895 badly damaged in bomb blasts in the early 1990s restored and enlarged 2020 the Strand Cinema 175 1935 now being developed as an arts centre 176 and the Queens Film Theatre QFT 1968 focussed on art house and world cinema 177 The two independent cinemas offer their screens for the Belfast Film Festival and the Belfast International Arts Festival The principal stage for drama remains the Lyric Theatre 1951 the largest employer of actors and other theatre professionals in the region 178 At Queens University drama students stage their productions at the Brian Friel Theatre a 120 seat studio space named after the renowned playwright 179 In November 2011 Belfast became the smallest city to host the MTV Europe Music Awards 180 The event was made possible by the 11 000 seat Odyssey Arena today the SSE Arena which opened in 2000 at the entrance to the Titanic Quarter 181 A further large scale venue is the Waterfront Hall a multi purpose conference and entertainment centre that first opened in 1997 The main circular Auditorium seats 2 241 and is based on the Berlin Philharmonic Hall 182 In 2012 the Metropolitan Arts Centre usually referred to as the MAC was opened in the Cathedral Quarter offering a performance mix of music theatre dance and visual art 183 The city has a number of community arts and arts education centres among them the Crescent Arts Centre 184 in south Belfast the Irish language Culturlann McAdam o Fiaich 185 in west Belfast The Duncairn 186 in north Belfast and in the east of the city EastSide Arts 187 Feile an Phobail a community arts organisation born out of the Internment Commemorations in the west of the city stages one of the largest community festivals in Europe 188 It has grown from its original August Feile on the Falls Road to a year round programme with a broad range of arts events talks and discussions 189 UNESCO City of Music edit In November 2021 Belfast became the third city in the British Isles to be designated by UNESCO as City of Music after Glasgow in 2008 and Liverpool in 2016 and is one of 59 cities worldwide participating in the UNESCO Creative Cities Network 190 191 The greater part of Belfast s music scene is accommodated in the city s pubs and clubs Irish traditional music trad is a staple and is supported along with Ulster Scots snare drum and pipe music by the city s TradFest summer school 192 193 Music offerings also draw on the legacy of the punk 194 and the underground club scene that developed during The Troubles 195 associated with the groups Stiff Little Fingers and The Undertones and celebrated in the award winning 2013 film Good Vibrations 196 Snow Patrol s frontman Gary Lightbody led a line up of private donors that together with public funders established the Oh Yeah music centre in 2008 197 The Cathedral Quarter non profit supports young musicians and these have engaged with a range of genres including Alternative rock Indie rock Electronica Post rock Post punk Crossover and Experimental rock Queens University hosts the Sonic Arts Research Centre SARC an institute for music based practice and research Its purpose designed building Sonic Laboratory and multichannel studios were opened by Karlheinz Stockhausen the German composer and father of electronic music 198 199 in 2004 200 Media edit nbsp Broadcasting House Belfast headquarters of the BBC in Northern IrelandBelfast is the home of the Belfast Telegraph Irish News and The News Letter the oldest English language daily newspaper in the world still in publication 201 202 The city is the headquarters of BBC Northern Ireland ITV station UTV and commercial radio stations Q Radio and U105 Two community radio stations Blast 106 and Irish language station Raidio Failte broadcast to the city from west Belfast Queen s Radio a student run radio station broadcasts from Queen s University Students Union One of Northern Ireland s two community TV stations NvTv is based in the Cathedral Quarter of the city Broadcasting only over the Internet is Homely Planet the Cultural Radio Station for Northern Ireland supporting community relations 203 Parades edit Since the lifting in 1872 of a twenty year party processions ban Orange parades in celebration of the Twelfth of July and the bonfires of the previous evening the eleventh have been a fixed fixture of the Belfast calendar 204 On what became a public holiday in 1926 205 Belfast and guest Orange lodges with their pipe flute and drum bands muster at Carlisle Circus and parade through the city centre passed the City Hall and out Lisburn Road to a gathering in the field at Barnett Demesne 206 While some local feeder and return marches have a history of sectarian disturbance in recent years events have generally passed off without serious incident 207 In 2015 the Orange Order opened the Museum of Orange Heritage on the Cregagh Road in East Belfast with the aim of educating the wider public about the origins traditions and continued relevance of the parading institution 208 What it sometimes referred to as the Catholic equivalent the Orangemen 209 the Ancient Order of Hibernians confines its parades to home ground in west and north Belfast 210 as do republicans commemorating the Easter Rising 211 In August 1993 in a break with a history of nationalist exclusion from the city centre a parade marking the introduction of internment in the 1971 proceeded up Royal Avenue toward the City Hall where it was addressed by Sinn Fein president Gerry Adams in front of the statue of Queen Victoria 212 Since 1998 the Belfast City Council has funded a city centre St Patrick s Day March 17 celebration It is organised by Feile an Phobail as a carnival complete with a parade featuring dancers circus entertainers floats and giant puppets 213 Critical of what they perceive as an evolving nationalist festival unionists on the City Council observe that a lot of the Protestant Unionist Loyalist PUL community will stay away from the city centre on St Patrick s Day the same as some stay away on the Twelfth of July 214 In 1991 Belfast hosted its first gay pride event Belfast Pride culminating in a city centre parade at the end of July is now one of the biggest annual festivals in the city and according to its organisers the largest LGBT festival in Ireland 215 216 The Irish Congress of Trade Unions organises an annual city centre May Day march and rally 217 The International Workers Day has been a public holiday since 1978 218 Demography editMain article Demographics of Belfast Historical populationYearPop p a 17578 549 178213 105 1 72 179118 320 3 79 180622 095 1 26 182137 277 3 55 183153 287 3 64 184175 308 3 52 185197 784 2 65 1861119 393 2 02 1871174 412 3 86 1881208 122 1 78 1891255 950 2 09 1901349 180 3 15 1911386 947 1 03 1926415 151 0 47 1937438 086 0 49 1951443 671 0 09 1961415 856 0 65 1966398 405 0 85 1971362 082 1 89 1981314 270 1 41 1991279 237 1 17 2001277 391 0 07 2006267 374 0 73 2011280 138 0 94 2021293 298 0 46 2021 figure is for the city within its pre 2015 local government boundaries 219 220 221 222 223 224 225 4 In 2021 there were 345 418 residents within the expanded 2015 Belfast local government boundary 7 and 634 600 in the Belfast Metropolitan Area 226 approximately one third of Northern Ireland s 1 9 million population As with many cities Belfast s inner city is currently characterised by the elderly students and single young people while families tend to live on the periphery Socio economic areas radiate out from the Central Business District with a pronounced wedge of affluence extending out the Malone Road and Upper Malone Road to the south 227 Deprivation levels are notable in the inner parts of the north and the west of the city The areas around the Falls Road Ardoyne and New Lodge Catholic nationalist and the Shankill Road Protestant loyalist experience some of the highest levels of social deprivation including higher levels of ill health and poor access to services These areas remain firmly segregated with 80 to 90 percent of residents being of the one religious designation 228 229 National Identity of Belfast City residents 2021 Nationality Per centIrish 39 4 British 37 0 Northern Irish 27 5 Consistent with the trend across all of Northern Ireland the Protestant population within the city has been in decline while the non religious other religious and Catholic population has risen The 2021 census recorded the following 43 of residents as Catholic 12 as Presbyterian 8 as Church of Ireland 3 as Methodist 6 as belonging to other Christian denominations 3 to other religions and 24 as having either no religion or no declared religion 157 In terms of community background 47 93 were deemed to belong to or to have been brought up in the Catholic faith and 36 45 in a Protestant or other Christian related denomination 230 The comparable figures in 2011 were 48 60 Catholic and 42 28 Protestant or other Christian related denomination 231 With respondents free to indicate more than one national identity in 2021 the largest national identity group was Irish only with 35 of the population followed by British only 27 Northern Irish only 17 British and Northern Irish only 7 Irish and Northern Irish only 2 British Irish and Northern Irish only 2 British and Irish less than 1 and Other identities with 10 157 From the mid to late 19th century there was a community of central European Jews 232 among its distinguished members Hamburg born Gustav Wilhelm Wolff of Harland amp Wolff and of Italians 233 in Belfast 234 Today the largest immigrant groups are Poles Chinese and Indians 235 236 The 2011 census figures recorded a total non white population of 10 219 or 3 3 236 while 18 420 or 6 6 235 of the population were born outside the UK and Ireland 235 Almost half of those born outside the British Isles lived in south Belfast where they comprised 9 5 of the population 235 The majority of the estimated 5 000 Muslims 237 and 200 Hindu families 238 living in Northern Ireland resided in the Greater Belfast area In the 2021 census the percentage of the city s residents born outside the United Kingdom had risen to 9 8 87 The Belfast City Council area in the 2011 census nbsp Percentage Catholic or brought up Catholic nbsp Most commonly stated national identity nbsp Percentage born outside the UK and IrelandEconomy editMain article Economy of Belfast nbsp Samson and Goliath Harland amp Wolff s gantry cranesEmployment profile edit Services including retail health professional amp scientific account for three quarters of jobs in Belfast Only 6 remain in manufacturing The balance is in distribution and construction 239 In recent years unemployment has been comparatively low under 3 in the summer of 2023 for the UK On the other hand Belfast has a high rate of people economically inactive close to 30 240 It is a group encompassing homemakers full time carers students and retirees 241 that in Belfast has been swollen by the exceptionally large proportion of the population 27 with long term health problems or disabilities 242 and who in Northern Ireland generally are less likely to be employed than in other UK regions 243 Shipbuilding aerospace and defence edit Of Belfast s Victorian era industry little remains The last working linen factory Copeland Linens Limited based in the Shankill area closed in 2013 244 In recent years Harland and Wolff which at peak production in the Second World War had employed around 35 000 people has had a workforce of no more than two or three hundred refurbishing oil rigs and fabricating off shore wind turbines A 1 6 billion Royal Navy contract has offered the yard a new lease returning it to shipbuilding in 2025 35 261 262 245 In 1936 Short amp Harland Ltd a joint venture of Short Brothers and Harland and Wolff began the manufacture of aircraft in the docks area In 1989 the British government which had nationalised the company during the Second World War sold it to the Canadian aerospace company Bombardier In 2020 it was sold on to Spirit AeroSystems 246 Producing aircraft components it remains the largest manufacturing concern in Northern Ireland 247 Originating in the Short Brothers missile division since 2001 Thales Group 248 owned Thales Air Defence Limited 249 has been producing short range air defence and anti tank missiles 250 including the NLAW shoulder launched system deployed against the Russian invasion by Ukraine 251 Fintech and cybersecurity edit From the 1990s Belfast established itself as a significant location for call centres and for other back office services 252 Attracting U S operators such as Citi Allstate Liberty Mutual Aflac and FD Technologies Kx Systems 253 it as since been identified by the UK Treasury as key fintech financial technology hub 254 Fintech s key areas its ABCD are artificial intelligence blockchain cloud computing and big data 255 The sector s principal constraint cyber security has been addressed since 2004 by the Queens University Institute of Electronics Communications and Information Technology IECIT and its Centre for Secure Information Technologies CSIT 256 The IECIT is the anchor tenant at Catalyst science park 257 in the Titanic Quarter which hosts a cluster of companies seeking to offer innovative cyber security solutions 258 Film edit Between 2018 and 2023 film and television production based largely in Belfast and occupying significant new studio capacity in the ports area contributed 330m to Northern Ireland s economy 259 There are two 8 acre media complexes serviced by the adjacent City Airport the Titanic Studios on Queen s Island the Titanic Quarter and across the Victoria Channel in Giant s Park on the Lough s north foreshore the Belfast Harbour Studios 260 Together they offer 226 000 ft of studio space plus offices and workshops 261 and have attracted U S production companies such as Amazon HBO including all eight series of its fantasy drama Game of Thrones Paramount Playtone Universal and Warner Bros 262 260 At the beginning of 2024 Ulster University in partnership with Belfast Harbour and supported by Northern Ireland Screen announced an 72m investment to add to the complex a new virtual production research and development facility Studio Ulster 263 264 Additional studio space is available at Loop Studios formerly Britvic on the Castlereagh Road in East Belfast 261 265 Tourism and hospitality edit nbsp Titanic Belfast devoted to the Belfast built RMS Titanic opened in 2012 Northern Ireland s peace dividend since the 1990s which includes a marked increase in inward investment 266 267 has contributed to a large scale redevelopment of the city centre Significant projects included Victoria Square the Cathedral Quarter Laganside with the Odyssey complex and the landmark Waterfront Hall the new Titanic Quarter with its Titanic Belfast visitor attraction and the development of the original Short s harbour airfield as George Best Belfast City Airport These developments reflect a boom in tourism 32 million visitors between 2011 and 2018 35 179 and related hotel construction This has included an entirely new phenomenon for Belfast in 1999 the port received its first cruise ship 268 In 2023 Belfast welcomed 153 calls 8 up from the pre pandemic record set in 2019 Ship from 32 different countries landed 320 000 passengers 269 Belfast has also seen growth of conflict tourism 35 186 191 To the dismay of some tourists take photos of the division lines that are not consigned to history but are a part of living Belfast children play football against the walls that tourists flock to The places and the people themselves have become a spectacle an attraction 270 Tourist bosses and guides however are satisfied that the greater draw is city s other must see attractions 271 and its convivial food and nightlife scene 272 EU GB Trade edit Invest NI Northern Ireland s economic development agency is pitching Belfast and its hinterland to foreign investors as only region in the world able to trade goods freely with both GB and EU markets 273 This follows the 2020 Northern Ireland Protocol and the 2023 Windsor Framework agreements between the British government and European Union whereby post Brexit Northern Ireland would effectively remain within the European Single Market for goods while in principle retaining unfettered access to the British domestic market Despite the DUP s derailment of devolved government in protest local business leaders largely welcomed the new trade regime hailing the promise of dual EU GB access as a critical opportunity 274 275 In February 2024 the DUP consented to a return of the devolved Assembly and Executive on the understanding that neither the EU nor the British government would defend the integrity of their respective internal markets by conducting routine checks on the bulk of goods passing through Belfast or other Northern Ireland ports 276 Education editSee also List of primary schools in Belfast List of secondary schools in Belfast and List of grammar schools in Belfast Primary and secondary education edit Children from Catholic and Protestant homes in Belfast are taught for the most part separately on a pattern that by the mid nineteenth century had been established throughout Ireland 277 Primary and secondary education is divided between Catholic Maintained Schools and non Catholic Protestant Controlled Schools 278 They are bound by the same curriculum but their teaching staff are trained separately in the university colleges of St Mary s and Stranmillis 279 280 200 202 Since the 1980s two smaller school sectors have emerged grant maintained Integrated schools which by design bring together children and staff from both communities and Irish language medium schools 278 The Belfast later Royal Belfast Academical Institution opened its doors in 1810 with the intention in the words of its founder former United Irishman William Drennan of being perfectly unbiased by religious distinctions 281 The principle was not embraced by the town s middle classes in practice Inst provided a grammar education to the town s Presbyterian families while Anglicans favoured the older Royal Belfast Academy 1785 Catholics St Malachy s diocesan college 1833 and Wesleyans Methodist College Belfast 1865 Denominational lines have since blurred with Catholics in particular moving into the controlled grammars 282 But the presence of 18 selective grammar schools in Belfast is a further feature of post primary education in Belfast that distinguishes it from that of comparable cities in Great Britain where academic selection was abandoned in the 1960s and 70s 283 Partly prompted by the COVID disruption of external testing in 2021 22 284 some the city s grammars have begun to review and amend the practice It is not clear that this will be on terms that reduce the degree of social segregation they have represented within the system 285 In 2006 the Belfast Education and Library Board became part of the consolidated Education Authority for Northern Ireland In Belfast the Authority has responsibility for 156 primary 286 and 48 secondary schools including the 18 grammars 287 The system is marked by stark inequalities in outcome 288 Around 30 of school leavers in the city do not attain 5 GCSEs A C including Maths and English For those in receipt of free school meals the figure rises to over 50 289 Further education edit Belfast has two universities Queen s University Belfast was founded as a college in 1845 In 1908 the Catholic bishops lifted their ban on attendance and Queen s was granted university status 280 164 166 It is a member of the Russell Group an association of 24 leading research intensive universities in the UK 290 and is one of the largest universities in the UK with over 25 000 students among them over 4 000 international students 291 Ulster University created in its current form in 1984 is a multi centre university with a campus on the edge of the Cathedral Quarter of Belfast Since 2021 this original Arts College campus has undergone a 1 4bn expansion to accommodate offerings across all departments The project promises to bring 15 500 staff and students into the city and to generate 5 000 new jobs 292 293 Belfast Metropolitan College Belfast Met is a further education college with three main campuses around the city including several smaller buildings Formerly known as Belfast Institute of Further and Higher Education it specialises in vocational education The college has over 53 000 students enrolled on full time and part time courses making it one of the largest further education colleges in the UK and the largest in the island of Ireland 294 Governance editBelfast was granted borough status by James VI and I in 1613 and official city status by Queen Victoria in 1888 295 Since 1973 it has been a local government district under local administration by Belfast City Council 296 Belfast has been represented in the British House of Commons since 1801 and in Northern Ireland Assembly as presently constituted since 1998 Local government edit Further information Belfast City Council nbsp Belfast City HallBelfast City Council is responsible for a range of powers and services including land use and community planning parks and recreation building control arts and cultural heritage 297 The city s principal offices are those of the Lord Mayor of Belfast Deputy Lord Mayor and High Sheriff Like other elected positions within the Council such as Committee chairs these are filled since 1998 using the D Hondt system so that in recent years the position has rotated between councillors from the three largest factions Sinn Fein the DUP and the Alliance Party The first Lord Mayor of Belfast in 1892 Daniel Dixon like every mayor but one until 1997 Alliance in 1979 was a unionist 298 The first nationalist Lord Mayor of Belfast was Alban Maginness of the Social Democratic and Labour Party SDLP in 1997 The current Lord Mayor is Ryan Murphy of Sinn Fein since 2011 the council s largest party His duties include presiding over meetings of the council receiving distinguished visitors to the city representing and promoting the city on the national and international stage 298 In 1997 unionists lost overall control of Belfast City Council for the first time in its history with the Alliance Party holding the balance of power In 2023 unionists retained just 17 of 60 seats on the council leaving nationalists Sinn Fein and the SDLP just 4 seats short of a majority 299 In addition to the 11 Alliance members there are four other councillors 3 Green and 1 People Before Profit who refuse a nationalist unionist designation Northern Ireland Assembly and Westminster edit nbsp Stormont is home to the Northern Ireland Assembly Further information Northern Ireland Assembly and Parliament of the United Kingdom See also Belfast Northern Ireland Parliament constituencies and Belfast UK Parliament constituency As Northern Ireland s capital city Belfast is host to the Northern Ireland Assembly at Stormont the site of the devolved legislature for Northern Ireland Belfast is divided into four Northern Ireland Assembly and UK parliamentary constituencies Belfast North Belfast West Belfast South and Belfast East All four extend beyond the city boundaries to include parts of Castlereagh Lisburn and Newtownabbey districts In United Kingdom elections each constituency returns one MP on a first past the post basis to Westminster In NI Assembly elections each returns on the basis of proportional representation five MLAs to Stormont In the Northern Ireland Assembly Elections in 2022 Belfast elected 7 Sinn Fein 5 DUP 5 Alliance Party 1 SDLP 1 UUP and 1 PBPA MLAs 300 In the 2017 UK general election the DUP won all but the Sinn Fein stronghold of Belfast West In the 2019 UK general election they retained only Belfast East losing Belfast North to Sinn Fein and Belfast South to the SDLP For the next elections the constituencies are redrawn with Belfast South extended as Belfast South and Mid Down to include parts of Lagan Valley and Strangford 301 Infrastructure editHospitals edit The Belfast Health amp Social Care Trust is one of five trusts that were created on 1 April 2007 by the Department of Health Belfast contains most of Northern Ireland s regional specialist centres 302 The Royal Hospitals site in west Belfast junction of Grosvenor and Falls roads contains two hospitals The Royal Victoria Hospital its origins in a number of successive institutions beginning in 1797 with The Belfast Fever Hospital 303 provides both local and regional services Specialist services include cardiac surgery critical care and the Regional Trauma Centre 304 The Children s Hospital Royal Belfast Hospital for Sick Children provides general hospital care for children in Belfast and provides most of the paediatric regional specialities 305 The Belfast City Hospital evolved from a 19th century workhouse and infirmary 306 on the Lisburn Road is the regional specialist centre for haematology and is home to a najor cancer centre 307 The Mary G McGeown Regional Nephrology Unit at the City Hospital is the kidney transplant centre and provides regional renal services for Northern Ireland 308 Musgrave Park Hospital in south Belfast specialises in orthopaedics rheumatology sports medicine and rehabilitation It is home to Northern Ireland s first Acquired Brain Injury Unit 309 The Mater Hospital founded in 1883 by the Sisters of Mercy 310 on the Crumlin Road provides a wide range of services including acute inpatient emergency and maternity services to north Belfast and the surrounding areas 311 The Ulster Hospital Upper Newtownards Road Dundonald on the eastern edge of the city first founded as the Ulster Hospital for Women and Sick Children in 1872 312 is the major acute hospital for the South Eastern Health and Social Care Trust It delivers a full range of outpatient inpatient and daycare medical and surgical services 313 Transport edit Main article Transport in Belfast nbsp Great Victoria Street railway station on Northern Ireland RailwaysBelfast is a relatively car dependent city by European standards with an extensive road network including the 22 5 miles 36 km M2 and M22 motorway route 314 Black taxis are common in the city operating on a share basis in some areas 315 These are outnumbered by private hire taxis Bus and rail public transport in Northern Ireland is operated by subsidiaries of Translink Bus services in the city proper and the nearer suburbs are operated by Translink Metro with services focusing on linking residential districts with the city centre on 12 quality bus corridors running along main radial roads 316 More distant suburbs are served by Ulsterbus Northern Ireland Railways provides suburban services along three lines running through Belfast s northern suburbs to Carrickfergus Larne and Larne Harbour eastwards towards Bangor and south westwards towards Lisburn and Portadown This service is known as the Belfast Suburban Rail system Belfast is linked directly to Coleraine Portrush and Derry Belfast has a direct rail connection with Dublin called Enterprise operated jointly by NIR and the Irish rail company Iarnrod Eireann nbsp George Best Belfast City AirportThe city has two airports George Best Belfast City Airport close to the city centre on the eastern shore of Belfast Lough and Belfast International Airport 30 40 minutes to the west to the west on the shore of Lough Neagh Both operate UK domestic and European flights The city is also served by Dublin Airport two hours to the south with direct inter continental connections In addition to its extensive freight business the port offers car ferry sailings operated by Stena Line to Cairnryan in Scotland 5 Sailings Daily 2 hours 22 minutes and to Liverpool Birkenhead 14 sailings weekly 8 hours The Isle of Man Steam Packet Company provides a seasonal connection to Douglas Isle of Man The Glider bus service is a new form of transport in Belfast Introduced in 2018 it is a bus rapid transit system linking East Belfast West Belfast and the Titanic Quarter from the City Centre 317 Using articulated buses the 90 million service saw a 17 increase in its first month in Belfast with 30 000 more people using the Gliders every week The service is being recognised as helping to modernise the city s public transport 318 National Cycle Route 9 to Newry 319 which will eventually connect with Dublin 320 starts in Belfast Utilities edit nbsp Silent Valley Reservoir showing the brick built overflowHalf of Belfast s water is supplied via the Aquarius pipeline from the Silent Valley Reservoir in County Down created to collect water from the Mourne Mountains 321 The other half is now supplied from Lough Neagh via Dunore Water Treatment Works in County Antrim 322 and which in recent years has had to contend with the growth in the Lough of toxic cyanobacteria or blue green algae 323 The citizens of Belfast pay for their water in their rates bill Plans to bring in additional water tariffs were deferred by devolution in May 2007 324 Power is provided from a number of power stations via NIE Networks Limited transmission lines Just under a half of electricity consumption in Northern Ireland is generated from renewable sources 325 Phoenix Natural Gas Ltd started supplying customers in Larne and Greater Belfast with natural gas in 1996 via the newly constructed Scotland Northern Ireland pipeline 322 Rates in Belfast and the rest of Northern Ireland were reformed in April 2007 The discrete capital value system means rates bills are determined by the capital value of each domestic property as assessed by the Valuation and Lands Agency 326 Recreation and sports editLeisure centres edit Belfast City Council owns and maintains 17 leisure centres across the city run on its behalf by the non profit social enterprise GLL under the Better brand 327 These include eight large multipurposed centres complete with swimming pools Ballysillan Leisure Centre and Grove Wellbeing Centre in North Belfast the Andersonstown Falls Shankill and Whiterock leisure centres in West Belfast Templemore Baths and Lisnasharragh Leisure Centre in East Belfast and close to the city centre in South Belfast the Olympia Leisure Centre and Spa 328 Parks and gardens edit Main article List of parks and gardens in Belfast nbsp The Palm House at the Botanic GardensBelfast has over forty parks The oldest 1828 and one of the most popular parks Botanic Gardens 329 in the Queen s Quarter Built in the 1830s and designed by Sir Charles Lanyon its Palm House is one of the earliest examples of a curvilinear and cast iron glasshouse 330 Other attractions in the park include the recently restored Tropical Ravine a humid jungle glen built in 1889 331 rose gardens and public events ranging from live opera broadcasts to pop concerts 332 The largest municipal park in the city and closest to the city centre lies on the right bank of Lagan The 100 acres of Ormeau Park were opened to the public in 1871 on what was the last demesne of the town s former proprietors the Chichesters Marquesses of Donegall 333 In north Belfast the Waterworks two reservoirs to which the public have had access since 1897 are features of a park supporting angling and waterfowl 334 In 1906 a further water park Victoria opened behind industrial dockland on what had been the eastern shore of the Lough 335 It is now connected through east Belfast by the Connswater Community Greenway which offers 16 km of continuous cycle and walkway through east Belfast 336 The largest green conservation area within the city s boundaries is a 2 116 hectares patchwork of parks demesnes woodland and meadows stretching upriver along the banks of the Lagan river and canal 120 Established in 1967 the Lagan Valley Regional Park envelopes in its course Belvoir Park Forest which contains ancient oaks and a 12th century Norman Motte 337 and Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park whose International Rose Garden attracts thousands of visitors each July 338 Colin Glenn Forest Park 339 the National Trust Divis and the Black Mountain Ridge Trail 340 and Cave Hill Country Park 341 offer panoramic views over Belfast and beyond from the west 340 Climbing the Castlereagh Hills the National Trust Lisnabreeny Cregagh Glen does the same from the east 342 Below Cave Hill the council maintains one of the few local government funded zoos in the British Isles The Belfast Zoo houses more than 1 200 animals of 140 species including Asian elephants Barbary lions Malayan sun bears one of the few in the United Kingdom two species of penguin a family of western lowland gorillas a troop of common chimpanzees a pair of red pandas a pair of Goodfellow s tree kangaroos and Francois langurs It carries out important conservation work and takes part in European and international breeding programmes which help to ensure the survival of many species under threat 343 Sports edit Main article Sport in Belfast nbsp Irish Football Association stadium Windsor ParkBelfast has several notable sports teams playing a diverse variety of sports such as football Gaelic games rugby cricket and ice hockey The Belfast Marathon is run annually on May Day The 41st Marathon in 2023 with related events Wheelchair Race Team Relay and 8 Mile Walk attracted 15 000 participants 344 The Northern Ireland national football team plays its home matches at Windsor Park Football clubs with stadia and training grounds in the city include Linfield Glentoran Crusaders Cliftonville Donegal Celtic Harland amp Wolff Welders Dundela Knockbreda PSNI Newington Sport amp Leisure and Brantwood 345 Belfast is home to over twenty Gaelic football and hurling clubs 346 Casement Park in west Belfast home to the Antrim county teams had a capacity of 31 500 making it the second largest Gaelic Athletic Association ground in Ulster 347 Listed as one of the venues for the UK and Ireland s successful UEFA Euro 2028 bid with co funding from the Irish government there are plans for a complete rebuild 348 In May 2020 the foundation of East Belfast GAA returned Gaelic Games to East Belfast after decades of its absence in the area The current club president is Irish language enthusiast Linda Ervine who comes from a unionist background in the area The team currently plays in the Down Senior County League 349 The 1999 Heineken Cup champions Ulster Rugby play at Ravenhill Stadium in the south of the city Belfast has four teams in rugby s All Ireland League Belfast Harlequins in Division 1B and Instonians Queen s University and Malone in Division 2A Belfast is home to the Stormont cricket ground since 1949 and was the venue for the Irish cricket team s first ever One Day International against England in 2006 350 The 9 500 capacity SSE Arena accommodates the Belfast Giants one of the biggest ice hockey clubs in the UK Featuring Canadian ex NHL players the club competes the British Elite Ice Hockey League Belfast was the home town of former Manchester United player George Best the 1968 European Footballer of the Year who died in November 2005 On the day he was buried in the city 100 000 people lined the route from his home on the Cregagh Road to Roselawn cemetery 351 Since his death the City Airport was named after him and a trust has been set up to fund a memorial to him in the city centre 352 Other sportspeople celebrated in the city include double world snooker champion Alex Hurricane Higgins 353 and world champion boxers Wayne McCullough Rinty Monaghan and Carl Frampton 354 Climate editAt 54 35 49 N 05 55 45 W 54 59694 N 5 92917 W 54 59694 5 92917 its northern latitude is characterised by short winter days and long summer evenings During the winter solstice the shortest day of the year local sunset is before 16 00 while sunrise is around 08 45 At the summer solstice in June the sun sets after 22 00 and rises before 05 00 355 For this northern latitude thanks to the influence of the Gulf Stream and North Atlantic Drift Belfast has a comparatively mild climate In summer the temperatures rarely range above 25 C 77 F or dip in winter below 5 C 23 F 356 357 The maritime influence also ensures that the city gets significant precipitation On 157 days in an average year rainfall is greater than 1 mm Average annual rainfall is 846 millimetres 33 3 in 358 less than areas of northern England or most of Scotland 359 but higher than Dublin or the south east coast of Ireland 360 With its moderate temperatures and abundant rainfall Belfast s climate is defined as a temperate oceanic climate Cfb in the Koppen climate classification system a classification it shares with most of northwest Europe 361 Climate data for Belfast Newforge b elevation 40 m 131 ft 1991 2020 normals extremes 1982 presentMonth Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec YearRecord high C F 15 0 59 0 16 4 61 5 19 7 67 5 22 1 71 8 25 4 77 7 28 6 83 5 30 2 86 4 28 1 82 6 23 7 74 7 20 5 68 9 17 1 62 8 15 2 59 4 30 2 86 4 Mean daily maximum C F 8 2 46 8 8 8 47 8 10 5 50 9 12 8 55 0 15 7 60 3 17 2 63 0 19 7 67 5 19 4 66 9 17 3 63 1 13 8 56 8 10 7 51 3 8 4 47 1 13 7 56 7 Daily mean C F 5 2 41 4 5 5 41 9 6 8 44 2 8 8 47 8 11 4 52 5 14 0 57 2 15 6 60 1 15 4 59 7 13 5 56 3 10 4 50 7 7 4 45 3 5 4 41 7 9 9 49 8 Mean daily minimum C F 2 2 36 0 2 1 35 8 3 1 37 6 4 7 40 5 7 0 44 6 9 7 49 5 11 6 52 9 11 5 52 7 9 6 49 3 6 9 44 4 4 2 39 6 2 3 36 1 6 3 43 3 Record low C F 10 1 13 8 7 1 19 2 6 5 20 3 3 8 25 2 2 6 27 3 1 3 34 3 4 2 39 6 2 5 36 5 0 8 33 4 3 0 26 6 7 6 18 3 13 5 7 7 13 5 7 7 Average precipitation mm inches 88 5 3 48 70 3 2 77 71 4 2 81 60 4 2 38 59 6 2 35 69 0 2 72 73 6 2 90 85 0 3 35 69 6 2 74 95 8 3 77 102 3 4 03 93 3 3 67 938 7 36 96 Average precipitation days 1 0 mm 14 4 12 7 12 6 11 3 11 5 11 4 13 0 13 5 11 6 13 8 15 5 14 8 156 2Mean monthly sunshine hours 40 1 65 2 97 7 157 1 185 1 151 1 146 3 141 9 112 0 92 4 52 9 35 3 1 277Source 1 Met Office 362 Source 2 Starlings Roost Weather 363 364 In fiction editF L Green Odd Man Out 1945 basis of Odd Man Out a 1947 British film noir directed by Carol Reed and starring James Mason Robert Newton Brian Moore The Emperor of Ice Cream 1965 Maurice Leitch Silver s City 1981 Bernard MacLaverty Cal 1983 Robert McLiam Wilson Eureka Street 1996 Lucy Caldwell Where They Were Missed 2005 Anna Burns Milkman 2018 Notable people editSee also List of people from Belfast Georgian Belfast edit Edward Bunting 1773 1843 Irish folklorist organiser of the 1792 Belfast Harp Festival Henry Cooke 1788 1868 Presbyterian Moderator evangelist proponent of Protestant unity commemorated in Cooke Memorial Church May Street and by the Black Man statue in College Square East Waddell Cunningham 1729 1797 Trans Atlantic trader West Indian slaveholder Irish Volunteer liberal patron William Drennan 1754 1820 United Irishman founder of the Royal Belfast Academical Institution RBAI Mary Ann McCracken 1766 1866 United Irishwoman social activist abolitionist sister of Henry Joy McCracken hanged 1798 statue at City Hall James MacDonnell 1763 1845 physician polymath patron of institutions since developed as the Royal Victoria Hospital RBAI and the Linen Hall Library Martha McTier 1742 1837 United Irishwoman advocate for women s health and education David Manson 1726 1792 schoolmaster pioneer of play and peer tutoring Freedom of the Borough 1779 Samuel Neilson 1761 1803 woollen merchant publisher of the Northern Star United Irishman John Templeton 1766 1825 Father of Irish Botany patron of the town s scientific and literary societiesVictorian Belfast edit Thomas Andrews 1873 1912 chief naval architect at Harland amp Wolff went down with RMS Titanic Joseph Biggar 1828 1890 obstructionist Irish nationalist MP women s suffragist Margaret Byers 1832 1912 educator activist social reformer missionary founder of Victoria College Hugh Roaring Hanna 1821 1892 Protestant evangelist associated with sectarian riot commemorated until targeted and destroyed in the Troubles by his statue and church at Carlisle Circus Edward Harland 1831 1895 and Gustave Wolff 1834 1913 partners in the world s largest shipyard Statue at City Hall Bernard Barney Hughes 1808 1878 Ireland s largest miller and baker producer of the Belfast bap first elected Catholic town councillor Otto Jaffe 1846 1929 business and Jewish community leader twice Mayor of Belfast William Johnston 1829 1902 Orangeman celebrated for breaking the Party Processions Act Belfast MP women s suffragist Richard Rutledge Kane 1841 1898 Orange Order Grand Master patron of the first Belfast branch of the Gaelic League Charles Lanyon 1813 1889 architect of main Lanyon building of Queens University the Palm House Botanic Gardens Linenhall Library Belfast Castle and Crumlin Road Goal and Courthouse Robert Shipboy MacAdam 1808 1895 Irish folklorist and linguist honoured with Cardinal o Fiaich in Culturlann McAdam o Fiaich John Mulholland 1819 1895 established the world s largest flax spinning operation York Street Mill MP William Pirrie 1847 1924 Chairman of Harland amp Wolff Mayor of Belfast Freedom of the City 1898 Statue at City Hall William Thomson Lord Kelvin 1824 1907 physicist renowned for his work on mechanical energy and heat memorial statue stands before the Ulster Museum Isabella Tod 1836 1896 suffragist with William Johnston secured the municipal vote for women 1888Early 20th century edit Winifred Carney 1887 1943 suffragist rebel 1916 labour activist statue at City Hall Thomas Carnduff 1886 1956 shipyard poet playwright trade unionist Independent Orangeman Edward Carson 1854 1935 leader of Ulster Unionism in the Home Rule Crisis memorial statue stands before Parliament Buildings at Stormont William Conor OBE 1881 1968 painter renowned for his sympathetic portrayals of working class life William Conway 1913 1977 Cardinal and All Ireland Primate co founder of Trocaire James Craig 1871 1940 Ulster Unionist first Prime Minister of Northern Ireland Joseph Devlin 1871 1934 journalist Irish nationalist Westminster and Stormont MP President of the Ancient Order of Hibernians Harry Ferguson 1884 1960 developer of the modern agricultural tractor first person in Ireland to build and fly an aeroplane John Hewitt 1907 1987 poet The Bloody Brae Freedom of the City 1983 C S Lewis 1898 1963 writer and Anglican lay theologian honoured as author of The Chronicles of Narnia in C S Lewis Square East Belfast Margaret McCoubrey 1880 1955 militant WPSU suffragette peace campaigner Labour City Councillor Harry Midgley 1893 1957 labour union and party organiser post war Unionist Minister for Education Alexander Buck Alec Robinson 1901 1995 docklands streetfighter and loyalist gunman Kept lions in his Sailortown home Betty Sinclair 1910 1981 Communist party activist 1932 Outdoor Relief protest Northern Ireland Civil Rights Association chair Joseph Tomelty 1911 1995 stage and screen Odd Man Out actor writer and broadcaster William Walker 1871 1918 unionist labour organiser and Vice Chair of the British Labour Party Ernest Walton 1903 95 with John Cockcroft Nobel Prize for splitting the atomLate 20th century edit Gerry Adams 1948 reputed republican paramilitary PIRA leader president of Sinn Fein MP Belfast West rtd Derek Bell 1935 2002 harpist musicologist and composer The Chieftains George Best 1946 2005 football international iconic sports figure City Airport named in his honour May Blood 1938 2022 shop steward in one of the city s last linen mills community worker co founder Northern Ireland Women s Coalition Ciaran Carson 1948 2019 writer poet Belfast Confetti David Ervine 1953 2007 loyalist paramilitary UVF veteran leader of the pro Agreement Progressive Unionist Party MLA Gerry Fitt 1926 2005 Republican Labour SDLP MP Deputy Chief of the first NI power sharing executive 1974 David Hammond 1928 2008 as teacher singer broadcaster and film maker documented the culture of city s shipyards and streets Terri Hooley 1948 key figure in the Belfast punk scene celebrated in the 2013 biopic Good Vibrations Brian Keenan 1942 2008 directed PIRA bombing in the city interlocutor for arms decommissioning Helen Lewis nee Katz 1916 2009 Holocaust survivor teacher and choreographer pioneer in Northern Ireland of modern dance Mairead Corrigan 1944 with Betty Williams awarded the 1976 Nobel Peace Prize as co founder of Women for Peace the Peace People critic of US and UK foreign policy Brian Moore 1921 1999 novelist The Lonely Passion of Judith Hearne The Emperor of Ice Cream Ian Paisley 1926 2014 Protestant evangelist Martyrs Memorial Church Belfast founder of the DUP NI First Minister Fr Alec Reid 1931 2013 Catholic priest mediator in the Hume Adams talks Northern Ireland peace process David Trimble 1944 2022 Ulster Unionist leader Nobel Peace Prize laureate NI First Minister Andy Tyrie 1940 loyalist paramilitary UDA leader rtd Ulster Workers Council strike NI peace process advocate Fr Des Wilson 1925 2019 dissident Catholic priest west Belfast community activist republican loyalist mediatorTwin towns sister cities editBelfast City Council takes part in the twinning scheme 365 and is twinned with the following sister cities Nashville Tennessee United States since 1994 Hefei Anhui Province China since 2005 Boston Massachusetts United States since 2014 Shenyang Liaoning Province China since 2016 366 Melbourne Victoria AustraliaFreedom of the City editThose who have received the Freedom of the City 367 Sir Kenneth Branagh 30 January 2018 Andrew Carnegie 28 September 1910 Sir Winston Churchill 16 December 1955 368 Bill Clinton 9 April 2018 Sir Robert Hart 1 July 1908 John Hewitt 26 May 1983 Sir John Jordan 28 September 1910 Michael Longley 23 March 2015 George J Mitchell 9 April 2018 Nurses of Belfast 1 December 2015 Royal Ulster Constabulary and Reserve 30 May 1980 William Pirrie 1st Viscount Pirrie 1898 the first person to be awarded Freedom Of The City of Belfast Notes edit f ɑː s t for speakers with the Trap bath split f ae s t for speakers without it Weather station is located 2 5 miles 4 0 km from the Belfast city centre Bibliography editJonathan Bardon 1982 Belfast An illustrated History Belfast Blackstaff Press ISBN 0856402729 J C Beckett et al 1983 Belfast The Making of a City Belfast Appletree Press ISBN 0862811007 Feargal Cochrane 2023 Belfast The Story of a City and its People Yale University Press ISBN 978 0300264449 S J Connolly ed 2012 Belfast 400 People Place and History Liverpool University Press ISBN 9781846316357 Maurice Goldring 1991 Belfast From Loyalty to Rebellion London Lawrence amp Wishart ISBN 97808531572281 Robert Johnstone 1990 Belfast Portraits of a City London Barrie amp Jenkins ISBN 9780712637442 William Maguire 2009 Belfast A History Lancaster Carnegie ISBN 9781839361894 Bill Meulemans 2013 Belfast Both Sides Now Create Space ISBN 9781479195411 Raymond O Regan 2010 Hidden Belfast Benevolence Blackguards and Balloon Heads Dublin Mercier Press ISBN 7981856356831 Raymond O Regan Arthur Magee 2014 The Little Book of Belfast The History Press ISBN 9781845888039 Marcus Patton 1993 Central Belfast An Historical Gazetteer Belfast Ulster Architectural Heritage Society ISBN 0900457449References edit Mid Year Population Estimates UK June 2021 Office for National Statistics 21 December 2022 Retrieved 18 October 2023 Belfast Metropolitan Area Plan PDF Planningni gov Archived PDF from the original on 7 November 2017 Retrieved 11 April 2018 Area Explorer Belfast NISRA gov Northern Ireland Statistics and Research Agency NISRA Archived from the original on 27 September 2022 Retrieved 29 September 2022 a b Settlement 2015 NISRA Retrieved 17 August 2023 McKay Patrick 2007 A Dictionary of Ulster Palce Names 2nd ed Belfast Clo Ollscoil na Banriona Queen s University Press p 21 ISBN 9780853898962 a b Placenames Database of Ireland Belfast view the scanned records Logainm ie Archived from the original on 2 July 2013 Retrieved 25 May 2014 a b Belfast Census Data 2021 Northern Ireland Statistics and Research Agency Archived from the original on 27 September 2022 Retrieved 14 January 2024 Belfast Population 2024 worldpopulationreview com Retrieved 22 January 2024 Hogan Edmund 1910 Onomasticon Goedelicum Dublin Archived from the original on 17 July 2011 Retrieved 1 June 2010 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link Placenames Logainmneacha Belfast BBC Northern Ireland Education BBC Archived from the original on 15 January 2009 Retrieved 17 May 2007 Young Robert M ed 1892 The Town Book of the Corporation of Belfast Belfast Marcus Ward Retrieved 16 August 2012 a b c o Baoill Ruairi 2011 Hidden History History Below Our Feet The Archaeological Story of Belfast Belfast Tandem Design Northern Ireland Environment Agency ISBN 9780956967107 North South Ministerial Council 2010 Annual Report in Ulster Scots PDF Archived from the original PDF on 27 February 2013 Retrieved 2 August 2014 North South Ministerial Council 2009 Annual Report in Ulster Scots PDF Archived from the original PDF on 1 April 2014 Retrieved 2 August 2014 Ulster Scots Language amp Dialects of Ulster The Linen Hall Library Archived from the original on 25 February 2013 Retrieved 3 March 2016 2006 annual report in Ulster Scots Archived 27 February 2013 at the Wayback Machine North South Ministerial Council BBC Ulster Scots Library Switherin agen Archived 24 July 2012 at the Wayback Machine Ullans Speakers Association Retrieved 6 October 2011 Equality Impect Assessment o tha Draft Ullans Leid Policy PDF Mid Ulster District Council Archived from the original PDF on 9 January 2018 Retrieved 16 May 2017 A walk on the outskirts of Belfast Giant s Ring Trail Northern Ireland The Guardian 12 May 2012 Archived from the original on 30 October 2013 Retrieved 1 June 2014 Reeves Rev William 1847 Ecclesiastical antiquities of Down Connor and Dromore consisting of a taxation of those dioceses compiled in the year MCCCVI with notes and illustrations Dublin Hodges and Smith p 7 Retrieved 31 March 2013 a b Maguire W A 1993 Belfast Keele University Press ISBN 1853310603 150 years of history and beyond www qub ac uk 5 January 2022 Retrieved 7 March 2024 Shankill 455AD Greater Shankill Partnership Archived from the original on 2 April 2015 Retrieved 22 December 2013 MacDonald Philip 2012 The Medieval Settlement In Connolly S J ed Belfast 400 People Place and History Liverpool pp 91 122 ISBN 9781846316357 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link Wilson Basil C S 1967 The Birth of Belfast In Beckett J C Glasscock R E eds Belfast The Origin and Growth of an Industrial City London British Broadcasting Corporation pp 14 25 Beckett J C 1983 Belfast The Making of the City Belfast Appletree Press p 15 ISBN 0862811007 The Answer of John Milton to the Representation of the Presbytery of Belfast Published at Page 95 of Our Last Number The Belfast Monthly Magazine 10 56 207 215 215 1813 ISSN 1758 1605 a b Connolly S J McIntosh Gillian 2012 Imagining Belfast In Connolly S J ed Belfast 400 People Place and History Liverpool Liverpool University Press ISBN 9781846316357 Clavin Terry 2009 Venables Robert Dictionary of Irish Biography www dib ie Retrieved 5 March 2024 Childs John 2007 The Williamite Wars in Ireland London Hambledon Continuum p 150 ISBN 9781852855734 King William in Ulster Museum of Orange Heritage Museum Retrieved 3 March 2024 Bardon Jonathon Bardon 2011 The Plantation of Ulster Dublin Gill amp Macmillan p 322 ISBN 9780717147380 McMaster Richard 2011 Scotch Irish Merchants in Colonial America The Flaxseed Trade and Emigration from Ireland 1718 1755 Ulster Historical Foundation Archived from the original on 22 May 2021 Retrieved 22 May 2021 Rodgers Nini 1997 Equiano in Belfast a study of the anti slavery ethos in a northern town Slavery and Abolition xviii 82 84 a b c d e Cochrane Feargal 2023 Belfast the Story of a City and its People London Yale University Press ISBN 9780300264449 F X Martin T W Moody 1980 The Course of Irish History Mercier Press pp 232 233 ISBN 1 85635 108 4 Connolly Sean J 2008 Divided Kingdom Ireland 1630 1800 Oxford University Press pp 434 449 ISBN 978 0 19 958387 4 Stewart A T Q 1995 The Summer Soldiers The 1798 Rebellion in Antrim and Down Belfast Blackstaff Press 1995 ISBN 9780856405587 Bardon Jonathan 2012 The Act of Union Archived from the original on 15 April 2012 Retrieved 30 January 2024 Belfast History of Parliament Online www historyofparliamentonline org Retrieved 10 February 2022 a b c d e Bardon Jonathan 1982 Belfast An Illustrated History Belfast The Balckstaff Press ISBN 0856402729 Beckett JC Boyle E 2003 Belfast The Making of the City Chapter 3 Linenopolis the rise of the textile industry Belfast Appletree Press Ltd pp 41 56 ISBN 0 86281 878 8 ConnollyCove 12 August 2019 Linenopolis The Linen Quarter of Belfast Connolly Cove Connolly Cove Archived from the original on 14 February 2021 Retrieved 6 November 2019 Johnson Alice 2020 A British or an Irish city The identity of Victorian Belfast Middle Class Life in Victorian Belfast Reappraisals in Irish History LUP Oxford University Press p 277 ISBN 9781789624496 Eoin O Malley 1981 The Decline of Irish Industry in the Nineteenth Century PDF The Economic and Social Review 13 1 21 42 22 via Trinity College Dublin Introduction To Titanic Titanic in History Titanic Built in Belfast Ulster Folk and Transport Museum Archived from the original on 17 August 2007 Retrieved 18 May 2007 Kelly Mary April 2013 Historical Internal Migration in Ireland PDF GIS Research UK Archived PDF from the original on 17 August 2018 Retrieved 17 August 2018 a b c Heatley Fred 1983 Community relations and religious geography 1800 86 In Beckett J C et al eds Belfast The Making of the City Belfast Appletree Press pp 129 142 ISBN 0862811007 a b Munck Ronald 1985 Class and Religion in Belfast A Historical Perspective Journal of Contemporary History 20 2 241 259 doi 10 1177 002200948502000203 ISSN 0022 0094 JSTOR 260533 S2CID 159836923 Foster R F 1988 Modern Ireland 1600 1972 London Allen Lane pp 389 396 ISBN 0 7139 9010 4 Farrell Sean 2000 Rituals and Riots Sectarian Violence and Political Culture in Ulster 1784 1886 University Press of Kentucky pp 125 150 Archived from the original on 6 May 2020 Retrieved 19 January 2024 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint bot original URL status unknown link Connell Jr Joseph E A 2012 The 1912 Ulster Covenant by Joseph E A Connell Jr History Ireland Retrieved 19 January 2024 Bowman Timothy 2013 The Ulster Volunteers 1913 1914 force or farce History Ireland Retrieved 19 January 2024 Evershed Jonathan 2018 Ghosts of the Somme Commemoration and Culture War in Northern Ireland University of Notre Dame Press doi 10 2307 j ctvpg869s JSTOR j ctvpg869s S2CID 243890001 Lynch Robert The Partition of Ireland 1918 1925 Cambridge University Press 2019 pp 92 93 a b c Cochrane Feargal 2023 Belfast the Story of a City and its People New Haven Yale University Press ISBN 9780300264449 Glennon Kieran 2020 Facts and fallacies of the Belfast pogrom History Ireland Retrieved 19 January 2024 Bardon Jonathan 1982 Belfast An Illustrated History Belfast The Blackstaff Press p 194 ISBN 0856402729 Walker Graham 1984 The Northern Ireland Labour Party 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