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Upper Peninsula of Michigan

The Upper Peninsula of Michigan – also known as Upper Michigan or colloquially the U.P. – is the northern and more elevated of the two major landmasses that make up the U.S. state of Michigan; it is separated from the Lower Peninsula by the Straits of Mackinac. It is bounded primarily by Lake Superior to the north, separated from the Canadian province of Ontario at the east end by the St. Marys River, and flanked by Lake Huron and Lake Michigan along much of its south. Although the peninsula extends as a geographic feature into the state of Wisconsin, the state boundary follows the Montreal and Menominee rivers and a line connecting them.

Upper Peninsula of Michigan
The Lake of the Clouds in the Porcupine Mountains of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Nickname: 
The U.P.
Coordinates: 46°14′00″N 86°21′00″W / 46.23333°N 86.35000°W / 46.23333; -86.35000Coordinates: 46°14′00″N 86°21′00″W / 46.23333°N 86.35000°W / 46.23333; -86.35000
CountryUnited States
StateMichigan
Area
 • Total16,377 sq mi (42,420 km2)
Population
 (2020)
 • Total301,609
 • Density18/sq mi (7.1/km2)
Time zones
Most of the Upper PeninsulaUTC−05:00 (Eastern)
 • Summer (DST)UTC−04:00 (EDT)
Four counties bordering Wisconsin (Gogebic, Iron, Dickinson, and Menominee)UTC−06:00 (Central)
 • Summer (DST)UTC−05:00 (CDT)
Area code906[a]

First inhabited by Algonquian-speaking native American tribes, the area was explored by French colonists, then occupied by British forces, before being ceded to the newly established United States in the late 18th century. After being assigned to various territorial jurisdictions, it was granted to the newly formed state of Michigan as part of the settlement of a dispute with Ohio over the city of Toledo. The region's exploitable timber resources and the discovery of iron and copper deposits in the 19th century brought immigrants, especially French Canadian, Finnish, Swedish, Cornish, and Italian. (The peninsula includes the only counties in the United States where a plurality of residents claim Finnish ancestry.[1]) With the exhaustion of readily available minerals, the area's economy declined in the 20th century, largely becoming dependent on logging and tourism.

The Upper Peninsula contains 29% of the land area of Michigan but only 3% of its total population; at the height of the mining and timber era in the early 20th century it had as much as 11% of the state's population. Residents are nicknamed Yoopers (derived from "UP-ers") and have a strong regional identity, enhanced by the perception that the rest of the state neglects them. Proposals have been made to establish the UP as a separate state, but have failed to gain traction. Its largest cities are Marquette, Sault Ste. Marie, Escanaba, Menominee, Houghton, and Iron Mountain. Because of the surrounding waters and northern latitude, it receives more snow than most of the eastern U.S. The heavily forested land, soil types, short growing season, and logistical factors (e.g. long distance to market, lack of infrastructure) make the Upper Peninsula poorly suited for agriculture. The region is home to a variety of wildlife, including moose, wolves, coyotes, deer, foxes, bears, bobcats, eagles, hawks, owls, and smaller animals.

History

 
The Upper Falls of the Tahquamenon River, near the northern shore of the peninsula

The first known inhabitants of the Upper Peninsula were tribes speaking Algonquian languages. They arrived roughly around 800 C.E. and subsisted chiefly from fishing. Early tribes included the Menominee, Odawa, Ojibwa, Nocquet, Potawatomi. Étienne Brûlé of France was probably the first European to visit the peninsula, crossing the St. Marys River around 1620 in search of a route to the Far East.[2]French colonists laid claim to the land in the 17th century, establishing missions and fur trading posts such as Sault Ste. Marie and St. Ignace. Following the end of the French and Indian War (part of the Seven Years' War) in 1763, the territory was ceded to Great Britain. Sault Ste Marie is the oldest European settlement in Michigan and the site of Native American settlements for centuries.

American Indian tribes formerly allied with the French were dissatisfied with the British occupation, which brought new territorial policies. Whereas the French cultivated alliances among the Indians, the British postwar approach was to treat the tribes as conquered peoples. In 1763, tribes united in Pontiac's Rebellion to try to drive the British from the area. American Indians captured Fort Michilimackinac, at present-day Mackinaw City, then the principal fort of the British in the Michilimackinac region, as well as others and killed hundreds of British. In 1764, they began negotiations with the British, resulting in temporary peace and changes in objectionable British policies.

Although the Upper Peninsula nominally became United States territory with the 1783 Treaty of Paris, the British did not give up control until 1797 under terms of the Jay Treaty. As an American territory, the Upper Peninsula was still dominated by the fur trade. John Jacob Astor founded the American Fur Company on Mackinac Island in 1808; however, the industry began to decline in the 1830s as beaver and other game were overhunted.[3]

When the Michigan Territory was first established in 1805, it included only the Lower Peninsula and the eastern portion of the Upper Peninsula. In 1819, the territory was expanded to include the remainder of the Upper Peninsula, all of what later became Wisconsin, and part of Minnesota (previously included in the Indiana and Illinois Territories). When Michigan applied for statehood in the 1830s, the proposal corresponded to the original territorial boundaries.

However, there was an armed conflict known as the Toledo War with the state of Ohio over the location of their mutual border. Meanwhile, the people of Michigan approved a constitution in May 1835 and elected state officials in late autumn 1835. Although the state government was not yet recognized by the United States Congress, the territorial government effectively ceased to exist. President Andrew Jackson's government offered the remainder of the Upper Peninsula to Michigan if it would cede the Toledo Strip to Ohio. A constitutional convention of the state legislature refused, but a second convention, hastily convened by Governor Stevens Thomson Mason, consisting primarily of his supporters, agreed in December 1836 to the deal. In January 1837, the U.S. Congress admitted Michigan as a state of the Union.

 
Smelter at Quincy Hill, Hancock, Michigan, circa 1906

At the time, Michigan was considered the losing party in the compromise. The land in the Upper Peninsula was described in a federal report as a "sterile region on the shores of Lake Superior destined by soil and climate to remain forever a wilderness."[2] This belief changed when rich mineral deposits (primarily copper and iron) were discovered in the 1840s. The Upper Peninsula's mines produced more mineral wealth than the California Gold Rush, especially after shipping was improved by the opening of the Soo Locks in 1855, and docks in Marquette in 1859. The Upper Peninsula supplied 90% of America's copper by the 1860s. It was the largest supplier of iron ore by the 1890s, and production continued to a peak in the 1920s, but sharply declined shortly afterward. The last copper mine closed in 1995, although the majority of mines had closed decades before. Some iron mining continues near Marquette.[2] The Eagle Mine, a nickel-copper mine, opened in 2014.[4]

Thousands of Americans and immigrants moved to the area during the mining boom, prompting the federal government to create Fort Wilkins near Copper Harbor to maintain order. The first wave were the Cornish from Great Britain, with centuries of mining experience; followed by Irish, Germans, and French Canadians. During the 1890s, Finnish immigrants began settling there in large numbers, forming the population plurality in the northwestern half of the peninsula. In the early 20th century, 75% of the population was foreign-born.[3]

From 1861 to 1865, 90,000 Michigan men fought in the American Civil War, including 1,209 from the Upper Peninsula. Houghton County contributed 460 soldiers, while Marquette County, Michigan, sent 265.[5]

There was a boundary dispute over the border with Wisconsin. The northwesternmost portion of the border follows a line from Lac Vieux Desert to the headwaters of the Montreal River. An 1847 survey established the east branch of the Montreal River as the border. However, the 1908 revision of the Constitution of Michigan specified that the west branch of the Montreal River was the proper border, which would have placed an additional 360 square miles of land on the Michigan side of the border.[6] A 1926 Supreme Court decision awarded this tract of land to Wisconsin.[7]

Geography

The Upper Peninsula contains 16,377 square miles (42,420 km2),[8] about 29 percent of the land area of the state (exclusive of territorial waters, which constitute about 40% of Michigan's total jurisdictional area). It is bounded on the north by Lake Superior, on the east by St. Marys River, on the south by Lake Michigan and Lake Huron, and on the west by Wisconsin and (counting the water border on Lake Superior) by Minnesota. It has about 1,700 miles (2,700 km) of continuous shoreline with the Great Lakes. There are about 4,300 inland lakes, the largest of which is Lake Gogebic, and 12,000 miles (19,000 km) of streams.[9]

Michigan's Upper Peninsula is bounded on land by Wisconsin to the southwest and west; and in territorial waters by Minnesota to the west, Ontario to the west, north and east, and the Door Peninsula of Wisconsin extends into Lake Michigan east of the western Upper Peninsula.

Five Michigan Upper Peninsula counties include nearby major islands: Mackinac Island, Round Island and Bois Blanc Island in Lake Huron are in Mackinac County; Sugar Island and Neebish Island in the St. Marys River, and Drummond Island in Lake Huron are in Chippewa County; Grand Island is in Alger County; Summer Island is Delta County; and Isle Royale is part of Keweenaw County.The peninsula is divided between the flat, swampy areas in the east, part of the Great Lakes Plain, and the steeper, more rugged western half, called the Superior Upland, part of the Canadian Shield.[10] The rock in the western portion is the result of volcanic eruptions and is estimated to be at least 3.5 billion years old (much older than the eastern portion) and contains the region's ore resources. Banded-iron formations were deposited 2 billion years ago; this is the Marquette Range Supergroup. A considerable amount of bedrock is visible. Mount Arvon, the highest point in Michigan, is found in the region, as well as the Porcupine and Huron mountains. All of the higher areas are the remnants of ancient peaks, worn down over millions of years by erosion and glaciers.[11]

The Keweenaw Peninsula is the northernmost part of the peninsula (not counting Isle Royale, which is politically part of the UP). It projects into Lake Superior and was the site of the first copper boom in the United States, part of a larger region of the peninsula called the Copper Country.[12] Copper Island is its northernmost section. Its lowest elevation is along the shoreline of Lake Huron and Lake Michigan, averaging 577 feet (176 m) above sea level.[13] Its highest elevation is Mount Arvon, at 1,979 feet (603 m).[14]

About one-third of the peninsula is government-owned recreational forest land today, including the Ottawa National Forest and Hiawatha National Forest. Although heavily logged in the 19th century, the majority of the land was forested with mature trees by the 1970s.[2]

Wildlife

The Upper Peninsula contains a large variety of wildlife. Some of the mammals found in the UP include shrews, moles, mice, white-tailed deer, moose, black bears, cougar, gray and red foxes, wolves, river otters, martens, fishers, muskrats, bobcats, coyotes, snowshoe hares, cotton-tail rabbits, porcupines, chipmunks, squirrels, raccoons, opossum and bats. There is a large variety of birds, including hawks, osprey, owls, gulls, hummingbirds, chickadees, robins (the state bird), woodpeckers, warblers, and bald eagles. In terms of reptiles and amphibians, the UP has common garter snakes, red bellied snakes, pine snakes, northern water snakes, brown snakes, eastern garter snakes, eastern fox snakes, eastern ribbon back snakes, green snakes, northern ringneck snakes, eastern milk snakes (Mackinac and Marquette counties) and eastern hognose snakes (Menominee County only), plus snapping turtles, wood turtles, and painted turtles (the state reptile), green frogs, bullfrogs, northern leopard frogs, and salamanders. Lakes and rivers contain many fish such as walleye, muskie, northern pike, trout, salmon, bullhead catfish, and bass. Invasive species like the alewife and sea lamprey can be found in the Great Lakes. The UP also contains many shellfish, such as clams, aquatic snails, and crayfish. The American Bird Conservancy and the National Audubon Society have designated several locations as internationally Important Bird Areas.[15]

 
Juvenile bald eagle in the Keweenaw Peninsula

After being nearly extirpated from the conterminous United States, gray wolves survived in the remote northeastern corner of Minnesota and Ontario. The repopulation of wolves in this region has occurred naturally as they have expanded their territory.

There is significant discussion and studies over the presence of eastern cougars in the UP.[16] Historically, the last of the species, or subspecies, was extirpated near Newberry in 1906, although there have been sightings of the creatures over the years since.[17][18] These reports increased in number over the first decade of the 21st century. The Michigan Department of Natural Resources and Environment (DNRE)[b] formed a four-person team to investigate sightings in the state. The biologists with the DNRE currently do not believe that there is a breeding population anywhere in the state, rather that the sighted animals are visitors to the state.[20] As late as January 2007, the DNRE's official position was that no cougars lived in Michigan.[21] Several residents in the state disagree with both current and previous positions on the part of the DNRE.[21][22] Researchers at Central Michigan University and the Michigan Wildlife Conservancy in 2006 published the findings of a study using DNA analysis of fecal samples taken in the Upper and Lower peninsulas that showed the presence of cougars at the time.[23] These results were disputed in a second journal article in 2007 by other researchers from Eastern Michigan University and the U.S. Forest Service.[24] A citizen's group, the Michigan Citizens for Cougar Recognition (MCCR), independently tracked sightings and in 2009 listed Delta County as the location with the greatest number of reports in the state.[25] The DNRE verified five sets of tracks and two trail camera photos in Delta, Chippewa, Marquette, and Menominee counties since 2008.[26] DNRE officials acknowledge that there are cougars in the UP, but not elsewhere in the state. Critics of the DNRE's position on the species, including the founder of the MCCR, say that the department is attempting to "avoid paying for a cougar management program".[22]

There are also many invasive species that are primarily brought in the ballast water of foreign ships, usually from the ocean bordering Northeastern Asia. This water is dumped directly into the Great Lakes, depositing a variety of fresh and salt water fish and invertebrates, most notably the zebra mussel, Dreissena polymorpha. There are also many plant species that have been transported to the Great Lakes, including purple loosestrife, Lythrum salicaria[27] and Phragmites australis, both of which are considered to be a threat to native hydrophyte wetland plants.[28][29]

The emerald ash borer was first reported in the UP at Brimley State Park,[30] and is considered to be a serious ecological threat to the habitat and economy.

Climate

 
A cabin in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan after a snowfall

The Upper Peninsula has a humid continental climate (Dfb in the Köppen climate classification system). The Great Lakes have a great effect on the larger part of the peninsula. Winters tend to be long, cold, and snowy for most of the peninsula, and because of its northern latitude, the daylight hours are short—around 8 hours between sunrise and sunset in the winter. Lake Superior has the greatest effect on the area, especially the northern and western parts. Lake-effect snow causes many areas to get in excess of 100–250 inches (2.5–6.4 m) of snow per year—especially in the Keweenaw Peninsula and Gogebic County, and to a lesser extent Baraga, Marquette and Alger counties, making the western UP a prominent part of the midwestern snow belt.

Records of 390 inches (9.9 m) of snow or more have been set in many communities in this area.[31] The Keweenaw Peninsula averages more snowfall than any other location east of the Mississippi River.[32] Because of the howling storms across Lake Superior, which cause dramatic amounts of precipitation, it has been said that the lake-effect snow makes the Keweenaw Peninsula the snowiest place east of the Rockies. Herman averages 236 inches (5.99 m) of snow every year.[33] Lake-effect snow can cause blinding whiteouts in just minutes, and some storms can last for days. Hancock is found frequently on lists of the snowiest cities in America.[34]

The banana belt along the Wisconsin border has a more continental climate since most of its weather does not arrive from the lakes. Summers tend to be warmer and winter nights much colder. Coastal communities have temperatures tempered by the Great Lakes. In summer, it might be 10 °F (5.6 °C) cooler at lakeside than it is inland, and the opposite effect is seen in winter. The area of the Upper Peninsula north of Green Bay through Menominee and Escanaba (and extending west to Iron River) does not have the extreme weather and precipitation found to the north.[2] The coldest temperature officially recorded in the Upper Peninsula was −48 °F (−44 °C) in Humboldt in January 1915.[35]

Time zones

Like the entire Lower Peninsula, most of the Upper Peninsula observes Eastern Time. However, the four counties bordering Wisconsin are in the Central Time zone.

In 1967, when the Uniform Time Act came into effect, the Upper Peninsula went under year-round CST, with no daylight saving time.[36] In 1973, the majority of the peninsula switched to Eastern Time;[37] only the four western border counties of Gogebic, Iron, Dickinson, and Menominee continue to observe Central Time. Daylight saving time is observed peninsula-wide.


Demographics

The Upper Peninsula remains a predominantly rural region. As of the 2020 census the region had a population of 301,608, just more than 3% of Michigan's total population and a decline of 3.2% from 2010.[38]

According to the 2010 census, 103,211 people live in the 12 towns of at least 4,000 people, covering 96.5 square miles (250 km2). A total of 116,548 people live in the 18 towns and villages of at least 2,000 people, which cover 108.5 square miles (281 km2)—less than 1% of the peninsula's land area.

 
Ruins found in the western Upper Peninsula

Federal censuses indicate that the population of the Upper Peninsula grew throughout the 19th century as European settlers moved into the region, then boomed around the turn of the century, and experienced gradual decline overall during most of the 20th century.[40][41] The decline was uneven, however: the population in the largest cities – Marquette, Sault Ste Marie, and Escanaba – grew somewhat, while smaller cities and non-urban areas have generally declined in population. The six westernmost counties experienced the largest decrease, from a 1920 population of 153,674 to a 2020 population of 79,392. Many ghost towns exist in the region.[42]

A " " indicates an increase in population from the previous census, and a " " indicates a decrease in population from the previous census.

Population by census year of the Upper Peninsula by county
County 1830 1840 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
Alger 1,238  5,868  7,675  9,983  9,327  10,167  10,007  9,250  8,568  9,225  8,972  9,862  9,601  8,842 
Baraga 1,804  3,036  4,320  6,125  7,662  9,168  9,356  8,037  7,151  7,789  8,484  7,954  8,735  8,860  8,158 
Chippewa 626  534  898  1,603  1,689  5,248  12,018  21,338  24,472  24,818  25,047  27,807  29,206  32,655  32,412  29,029  34,604  38,543  38,520  36,785 
Delta 1,172  2,542  6,812  15,330  23,881  30,108  30,909  32,280  34,037  32,913  34,298  35,924  38,947  37,780  38,520  37,069  36,903 
Dickinson 17,890  20,524  19,456  29,941  28,731  24,844  23,917  23,753  25,341  26,831  27,427  26,168  25,947 
Gogebic 13,166  16,738  23,333  33,225  31,577  31,797  27,053  24,370  20,676  19,686  18,052  17,370  16,427  14,380 
Houghton 708  9,234  13,879  22,473  35,389  66,063  88,098  71,930  52,851  47,631  39,771  34,654  34,652  37,872  35,446  36,016  36,628  37,361 
Iron 4,432  8,990  15,164  22,107  20,805  20,243  17,692  17,184  13,813  13,635  13,175  13,138  11,817  11,631 
Keweenaw 4,205  4,270  2,894  3,217  7,156  6,322  5,076  4,004  2,918  2,417  2,264  1,963  1,701  2,301  2,156  2,046 
Luce 2,455  2,983  4,004  6,149  6,528  7,423  8,147  7,827  6,789  6,659  5,763  7,024  6,631  5,339 
Mackinac 877  923  3,598  1,938  1,716  2,902  7,830  7,703  9,249  8,026  8,783  9,438  9,287  10,853  9,660  10,178  10,674  11,943  11,113  10,834 
Marquette 136  2,821  15,033  25,394  39,521  41,239  46,739  45,786  44,076  47,144  47,654  56,154  64,686  74,101  70,887  64,634  67,077  66,017 
Menominee 1,791  11,987  33,639  27,046  25,648  23,778  23,652  24,883  25,299  24,685  24,587  26,201  24,920  25,109  24,029  23,502 
Ontonagon 389  4,568  2,845  2,565  3,756  6,197  8,650  12,428  11,114  11,359  10,282  10,584  10,548  9,861  8,854  7,818  6,780  5,816 
Schoolcraft 16  78  1,575  5,818  7,889  8,681  9,977  8,451  9,524  9,148  8,953  8,226  8,575  8,302  8,903  8,485  8,047 
Total 1,503  1,457  5,745  21,414  43,700  85,030  180,522  261,362  325,626  332,556  318,676  323,544  302,258  304,952  304,347  319,757  313,915  317,213  311,361  301,608 

Education

The Upper Peninsula of Michigan has three state universities (Lake Superior State University in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan Technological University in Houghton, and Northern Michigan University in Marquette), one private university (Finlandia University located in Hancock, Michigan, on the Keweenaw Peninsula), and five community colleges (Bay Mills Community College in Brimley, Bay de Noc Community College in Escanaba and Iron Mountain, Gogebic Community College in Ironwood, and Keweenaw Bay Ojibwa Community College in Baraga).

Culture

 
"Da Yoopers Tourist Trap", near Ishpeming, features a host of items in its museum and store that play up Yooper stereotypes

Early settlers included multiple waves of people from Nordic countries, and people of Finnish ancestry make up 16% of the peninsula's population; the UP is home to the highest concentration of Finns outside Europe and the only counties of the United States where a plurality of residents claim Finnish ancestry. The Finnish sauna and the concept of sisu have been adopted widely by residents of the Upper Peninsula. The television program Finland Calling was for a long period the only Finnish-language television broadcast in the United States; it aired on Marquette station WLUC-TV from March 25, 1962, until March 29, 2015.[43] Finlandia University, America's only college with Finnish roots, is located in Hancock.[44] Street signs in Hancock appear in English and Finnish to celebrate this heritage.

Other sizable ethnic communities in the Upper Peninsula include French-Canadian, German, Cornish, Italian, and Ojibwe ancestry.

Upper Peninsula natives speak a dialect influenced by Scandinavian and French-Canadian speech. A popular bumper sticker, a parody of the "Say YES to Michigan" slogan promoted by state tourism officials, shows an outline of the Upper Peninsula and the slogan, "Say ya to da UP, eh!" The dialect and culture are captured in many songs by Da Yoopers, a comedy music and skit troupe from Ishpeming, Michigan.

Throughout the Upper Peninsula, there are newspapers, such as The Daily News in Iron Mountain, The Menominee County Journal in Stephenson, The Daily Mining Gazette in Houghton, The Daily Press in Escanaba, and the Sault Ste. Marie Evening News that serve the rest of the UP The Mining Journal, based in Marquette, is the only daily newspaper that publishes a Sunday edition, which is distributed, with the exception of Chippewa and eastern Mackinac counties, across the entire UP (the other six days are distributed in its local area only).

The Keweenaw Peninsula is home to several ski areas. Mont Ripley, just outside Houghton, is popular among students of Michigan Technological University (the university actually owns the mountain). Further up the peninsula in the small town of Lac La Belle is Mt. Bohemia. A skiing purist's resort, Bohemia is a self-proclaimed "experts only" mountain, and it does not groom its heavily gladed slopes.[45] Other ski areas are Pine Mountain located in Iron Mountain, Norway Mountain in the town of the same name, and the Porcupine Mountains located in Ontonagon.

Houghton is where professional ice hockey was first started in 1904.[46][47]

Regional identity

 
A Yooper pasty (beef)

Today, the western Upper Peninsula is home to about 173,887 people, while the eastern Upper Peninsula is home to about 133,499 people, a total of 307,386—only about 3% of the state's population—living in almost one-third of the state's land area.[48][49] Residents are known as Yoopers (from "UP-ers"), and many consider themselves Yoopers before they consider themselves Michiganders.[50] (People living in the Lower Peninsula are commonly called "trolls" by Upper Peninsula residents, as they live "Under the Bridge".) This regionalism is not only a result of the physical separation of the two peninsulas, but also the history of the state.

Residents of the western Upper Peninsula take on some of the cultural identities of both Wisconsin and Michigan. In terms of sports fandom, residents may support Detroit professional teams or those of Wisconsin—particularly the Green Bay Packers. This is a result of both proximity and the broadcast and print media of the area. The four counties that border Wisconsin are also in the Central Time Zone, unlike the rest of Michigan, which is on Eastern time. In some cases, commercial cartographers draw incorrect maps that inadvertently annex the Upper Peninsula into Wisconsin.[51]

Cuisine

The Upper Peninsula has a distinctive local cuisine. The pasty (pronounced "pass-tee"), a kind of meat turnover originally brought to the region by Cornish miners, is popular among locals and tourists alike. Pasty varieties include chicken, venison, pork, hamburger, and pizza, all of which many restaurants serve.[50] Many restaurants serve potato sausage and cudighi, a spicy Italian meat.

Finnish immigrants contributed nisu, a cardamom-flavored sweet bread; limppu, an Eastern Finnish rye bread; pannukakku, a variant on the pancake with a custard flavor; viili (sometimes spelled "fellia"), a stretchy, fermented Finnish milk; and korppu, hard slices of toasted cinnamon bread, traditionally dipped in coffee. Some Finnish foods such as juusto (squeaky cheese, essentially a cheese curd, like Leipäjuusto) and saunamakkara (a ring-bologna sausage) have become so ubiquitous in Upper Peninsula cuisine that they are now commonly found in most grocery stores and supermarkets.

Maple syrup is a highly prized local delicacy.[52] Fresh Great Lakes fish, such as the lake trout, whitefish, and (in the spring) smelt are widely eaten. There is minimal concern about contamination of fish from Lake Superior waters.[53] Smoked fish is also popular. Thimbleberry jam and chokecherry jelly are a treat.[54]

Economy

Industries

 
The Quincy Mine near Hancock mined copper until 1945.

The Upper Peninsula is rich in mineral deposits, including iron, copper, nickel, and silver. Small amounts of gold have also been discovered and mined. In the 19th century, mining dominated the economy, and the UP became home to many isolated company towns. For many years, mines in the Keweenaw Peninsula were the world's largest producers of copper (see Copper mining in Michigan). The mines began declining as early as 1913, with most closing temporarily during the Great Depression. Mines reopened during World War II, but almost all quickly closed after the war ended. The last copper mine in the Copper Country was the White Pine mine, which closed in 1995. Marquette County sits along the Marquette Iron Range, which sent out a significant portion of the iron ore mined in the United States for many years.[citation needed] As of 2020, Marquette County is home to one remaining iron ore mine and one nickel and copper mine.[55][56]

From approximately 1870 to 1915, about 32 quarries mined Jacobsville Sandstone in the Upper Peninsula, particularly near Marquette and the community of Jacobsville. The sandstone was used in many buildings, both locally and around the United States.[57]

Since logging of white pine began in the 1880s, timber has been an important industry.[58] Stands of hemlock and hardwood in the western reaches of the forest experienced larger scale selection-cutting beginning in the mid-20th century. Because of the highly seasonal climate and the short growing season, agriculture is limited in the Upper Peninsula, though potatoes, strawberries and a few other small fruits are grown.

Tourism has become the main industry in recent decades. In 2005, ShermanTravel, LLC listed the Upper Peninsula as #10 in its assessment of all travel destinations worldwide.[59][60] The peninsula has extensive coastline on the Great Lakes, large tracts of state and national forests, cedar swamps, more than 150 waterfalls, and low population densities. Because of the skiing, camping, boating, fishing, snowmobiling, hunting, and hiking opportunities, many Lower Peninsula and Wisconsin families spend their vacations in the UP, and tourists visit from Detroit, Chicago, Grand Rapids, Milwaukee, and other metropolitan areas. The opening of the Mackinac Bridge in 1957 (see below) has made the Upper Peninsula easily accessible to tourists from the Lower Peninsula and southeast of Michigan, and has helped make the UP a year-round tourist destination.

In 2004, microbreweries began opening across the Upper Peninsula; 14 opened by 2014, and 23 by 2019.[61][62] In 2019, their annual economic impact totaled $346 million.[62][63] As of 2018, three of Michigan's fifty largest breweries were in the Upper Peninsula: Keweenaw Brewing Company, Blackrocks Brewery, and the Ore Dock Brewing Company.[64]

Government

 
Upper Peninsula welcome sign along I-75
 
Counties in the Upper Peninsula

There are 15 counties in the Upper Peninsula.

State prisons are located in Baraga, Marquette, Munising, Newberry, and Kincheloe.

Politics

Upper Peninsula vote
by party in presidential elections [65]
Year REP DEM Others
2020[66] 57.34% 95,351 41.04% 68,249 1.62% 2,695
2016[67] 56.40% 82,018 37.77% 54,923 5.83% 8,476
2012[68] 50.80% 73,529 47.49% 68,747 1.71% 2,477
2008[69] 46.12% 69,647 51.82% 78,257 2.06% 3,108
2004[70] 51.52% 78,276 47.31% 71,888 1.17% 1,781
2000[71] 50.61% 70,256 45.95% 63,791 3.43% 4,768
1996[72] 36.75% 48,134 51.05% 66,856 12.20% 15,974
1992[73] 33.37% 47,447 46.46% 66,060 20.18% 28,695
1988[74] 47.86% 63,151 51.65% 68,152 0.49% 645
1984[75] 54.07% 75,591 45.56% 63,695 0.37% 516
1980[76] 47.78% 71,025 44.12% 65,579 8.10% 12,046
1976[77] 48.04% 67,596 50.70% 71,338 1.25% 1,762
1972[78] 54.08% 72,967 44.23% 59,670 1.69% 2,279
1968[79] 44.75% 55,070 50.26% 61,858 4.99% 6,141
1964[80] 32.40% 41,267 67.46% 85,923 0.14% 183
1960[81] 48.05% 64,764 51.76% 69,765 0.19% 252
1956[82] 58.72% 77,576 41.12% 54,326 0.17% 219
1952[83] 55.09% 74,639 44.45% 60,230 0.46% 625
1948[84] 47.28% 58,346 48.46% 59,801 4.27% 5,265
1944[85] 45.63% 58,704 53.88% 69,310 0.49% 630
1940[86] 46.14% 69.164 53.26% 79.835 0.67% 1,003
1936[87] 39.21% 54,153 58.78% 81,176 2.02% 2,784
1932[88] 48.73% 61,473 47.57% 60,012 3.71% 4,677
1928[89] 61.53% 65,913 37.04% 39.677 1.44% 1,542
1924[90] 68.51% 61,396 8.10% 7,261 23.39% 20,964
1920[91] 74.50% 61,475 19.24% 15,876 6.27% 5,171
1916[92] 59.51% 34,269 35.31% 20,333 5.17% 2,979
1912[93][94] 31.41% 15,825 19.46% 9,803 49.14% 24,757
1908[95] 72.69% 37,194 21.12% 10,805 6.20% 3,170
1904[96] 79.83% 37,400 14.87% 6,965 5.31% 2,486
1900[97] 73.00% 34,180 24.31% 11,382 2.69% 1,258
1896[98] 68.39% 29,591 28.65% 12,397 2.95% 1,278

During most of the “System of 1896”, the Upper Peninsula was overwhelmingly Republican even by the standards of Michigan during this era. However, the region’s politics shifted from 1924, when the Upper Peninsula was the strongest region in Michigan for the insurgent candidacy of Progressive Robert M. La Follette,[99] and in the following years with the increasing unionization of its large mining workforce. From the New Deal until the Clinton era, the Upper Peninsula tended to vote for the Democratic Party due to its legacy of mining and high union membership. As union strength in the peninsula declined since the turn of the century, the region has become more leaning towards the Republican Party (though split-ticket voting at the local level became a common practice).[citation needed] In the 2012 presidential election, Republican candidate Mitt Romney carried all but two counties. In the 2016 and 2020 presidential elections, Republican candidate Donald Trump won all counties except Marquette County.

2012 presidential election[100][101]
County Registered voters Votes cast Romney/Ryan Obama/Biden Result
Alger 4,671 4,618 2,330 2,212 REP
Baraga 3,540 3,490 1,866 1,574 REP
Chippewa 15,790 15,564 8,278 7,100 REP
Delta 18,968 18,050 9,534 8,330 REP
Dickinson 12,950 12,810 7,688 4,952 REP
Gogebic 7,689 7,576 3,444 4,058 DEM
Houghton 15,477 15,282 8,196 6,801 REP
Iron 6,065 5,988 3,224 2,687 REP
Keweenaw 1,411 1,392 774 582 REP
Luce 3,401 2,596 1,580 991 REP
Mackinac 6,170 6,099 3,397 2,652 REP
Marquette 32,551 32,194 13,606 18,115 DEM
Menominee 11,043 10,923 5,564 5,242 REP
Ontonagon 3,599 3,539 1,906 1,586 REP
Schoolcraft 4,104 4,048 2,142 1,865 REP
Total 147,429 144,168 73,529 70,639 REP

All counties in the UP are part of Michigan's 1st congressional district. Jack Bergman, a Republican, has been the U.S. representative for this district since January 2017.

In Michigan's 2010 gubernatorial election Republican Rick Snyder carried every UP county but one, Gogebic, on his way to victory over his Democratic opponent, Virg Bernero.[102]

Proposed statehood

Due to the geographic separation and perceived cultural and political differences from the Lower Peninsula, at various times there have been proposals for the Upper Peninsula to secede from Michigan as a 51st state named Superior, sometimes including portions of northern Wisconsin and/or the northern Lower Peninsula. Several prominent legislators, including the region's long-serving state representative Dominic Jacobetti, attempted unsuccessfully to gain passage of such a bill in the 1970s.[103] It would be the least populous state in the union, and as stronger connections to the rest of Michigan have developed since completion of the Mackinac Bridge in the 1950s, the proposal has remained largely dormant since the 1970s.[104]

Notable attractions

Casinos

American Indian casinos contribute to the tourist attractions and are popular in the UP. Originally the casinos were simple, one-room affairs. Some of the casinos are now quite elaborate and are being developed as part of resort and conference facilities, including features such as golf courses, pool and spa, dining, and rooms to accommodate guests.

Transportation

 
Straits of Mackinac and bridge in winter looking south from St. Ignace

The Upper Peninsula is separated from the Lower by the Straits of Mackinac, five miles (8 km) across at the narrowest, and is connected to it by the Mackinac Bridge at St. Ignace, one of the longest suspension bridges in the world. Until the bridge was completed in 1957, travel between the two peninsulas was difficult and slow (and sometimes even impossible during winter). In 1881, the Mackinac Transportation Company was established by three railroads, the Michigan Central Railroad, the Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad, and the Detroit, Mackinac and Marquette Railroad, to operate a railroad car ferry across the Straits. Beginning in 1923, the State of Michigan operated automobile ferries between the two peninsulas. At the busiest times of year the wait was several hours long, much longer at holidays.[107] In winter, travel was possible over the ice only after the straits had solidly frozen.

Highways

There are one Interstate Highway, five US Highways and 24 other state highways in the Upper Peninsula. Interstate 75 is the only freeway in the region and runs from the Mackinac Bridge at St. Ignace to the International Bridge at Sault Ste. Marie. Two highways run the east–west length of the peninsula, US Highway 2 along the south and M-28 to the north. US 41 runs north–south through the central and western UP, connecting Menominee, Escanaba, Marquette and Houghton before terminating near the tip of the Keweenaw at Copper Harbor. M-185 encircles Mackinac Island as the only state highway in the country without motor vehicles.

The United States Forest Service and Federal Highway Administration have designated certain roads within the several National Forests in the UP as Federal Forest Highways.[108] State-maintained highways closest to the Upper Peninsula's Great Lakes shorelines are marked by the Michigan Department of Transportation (MDOT) with signs indicating that they are part of the Great Lakes Circle Tour, a designated scenic road system connecting all of the Great Lakes and the St. Lawrence River.[109] MDOT has also designated five UP highways as Pure Michigan Byways for their historic, recreational or scenic qualities.[110][111] They are: US 2 in Iron County (Iron County Heritage Trail) and in Schoolcraft and Mackinac counties (Top of the Lake Scenic Byway), US 41 from Houghton to Copper Harbor (Copper County Trail, also a National Scenic Byway), M-35 (UP Hidden Coast Recreational Heritage Trail), M-123 (Tahquamenon Scenic Heritage Route) and M-134 (M-134 North Huron Byway)

Airports

There are 43 airports in the Upper Peninsula. Of these, six airports have commercial passenger service: Gogebic-Iron County Airport north of Ironwood, Houghton County Memorial Airport southwest of Calumet, Ford Airport west of Iron Mountain, Sawyer International Airport south of Marquette, Delta County Airport in Escanaba, and Chippewa County International Airport south of Sault Ste. Marie. There are 19 other public use airports with a hard surface runway. These are used for general aviation and charter. Notably, Mackinac Island, Beaver Island, and Drummond Island are all accessible by airports. There are five public access airports with turf runways and thirteen airports for the private use of their owners.[citation needed] There is only one control tower in the Upper Peninsula, at Sawyer.[112]

Ferries and bridges

 
The Cut River Bridge in Mackinac County is another notable bridge of the Upper Peninsula.

The Eastern Upper Peninsula Transportation Authority operates car ferries in its area. These include ferries for Sugar Island, Neebish Island, and Drummond Island. Two ferry companies run passenger ferries from St. Ignace to Mackinac Island.

The three major bridges in the Upper Peninsula are:

  • Mackinac Bridge, connecting the Lower Peninsula of Michigan with the Upper;
  • Sault Ste. Marie International Bridge, which connects the city of Sault Ste. Marie to its twin city of Sault Ste. Marie in Canada; and
  • Portage Lift Bridge, which crosses Portage Lake. The Portage Lift Bridge is the world's heaviest and widest double-decked vertical lift bridge. Its center span lifts to provide about 100 feet (30 m) of clearance for ships. Since rail traffic was discontinued in the Keweenaw, the lower deck is used to accommodate snowmobile traffic in the winter. As the only land-based link between the north and south sections of the Keweenaw Peninsula, the bridge is crucial to transportation.

Railways

Bus systems

Despite its rural character, there are public buses in several counties of the Upper Peninsula.[113]

 
Campus of Michigan Technological University in Houghton. MTU was founded as the Michigan Mining School in 1885.

Notable people

See also

Notes

  1. ^ Bois Blanc Township, an island in the Straits of Mackinac in Mackinac County, is in area code 231.
  2. ^ The DNRE was split back into the Michigan Department of Natural Resources (DNR) and the Michigan Department of Environmental Quality (DEQ) on January 4, 2011.[19]

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Further reading

  • Binder, David (September 14, 1995). "Upper Peninsula Journal; Yes, They're Yoopers, and Proud of It". The New York Times.
  • Burt, Williams A. & Hubbard, Bela (1846). Reports on the Mineral Region of Lake Superior. Buffalo: L. Danforth. ISBN 978-0-665-51009-0. Bela Hubbard. 113 pages.
  • Harrison, Jim (November 30, 2013). "Imprint: My Upper Peninsula". The New York Times. Retrieved November 30, 2013.
  • Lankton, Larry (2010). Hollowed Ground: Copper Mining and Community Building on Lake Superior, 1840s–1990s. Detroit: Wayne State University Press. 376 pages.
  • Magnaghi, Russell M. & Marsden, Michael T., eds. (1997). A Sense of Place: Michigan's Upper Peninsula: Essays in Honor of William and Margery Vandament. Northern Michigan University Press. ISBN 978-0-918616-20-3. 270 pages.
  • Magnaghi, Russell M. (2017). Upper Peninsula of Michigan: A History. Marquette, Michigan: 906 Heritage. ISBN 978-1-387-01681-5. OCLC 993581790.
  • Reddicliffe, Steve (July 27, 2017). "36 Hours in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan". The New York Times.
  • Rydholm, C. Fred (1989). Superior Heartland: A Backwoods History. Vol. I–II. Ann Arbor, Michigan: Braun-Brumfield. ISBN 978-0-963-99482-0.

External links

  • Upper Peninsula of Michigan Travel
  • Western Upper Peninsula of Michigan

upper, peninsula, michigan, redirects, here, other, uses, disambiguation, also, known, upper, michigan, colloquially, northern, more, elevated, major, landmasses, that, make, state, michigan, separated, from, lower, peninsula, straits, mackinac, bounded, prima. The UP redirects here For other uses see Up disambiguation The Upper Peninsula of Michigan also known as Upper Michigan or colloquially the U P is the northern and more elevated of the two major landmasses that make up the U S state of Michigan it is separated from the Lower Peninsula by the Straits of Mackinac It is bounded primarily by Lake Superior to the north separated from the Canadian province of Ontario at the east end by the St Marys River and flanked by Lake Huron and Lake Michigan along much of its south Although the peninsula extends as a geographic feature into the state of Wisconsin the state boundary follows the Montreal and Menominee rivers and a line connecting them Upper Peninsula of MichiganMichiganThe Lake of the Clouds in the Porcupine Mountains of the Upper Peninsula of MichiganNickname The U P Coordinates 46 14 00 N 86 21 00 W 46 23333 N 86 35000 W 46 23333 86 35000 Coordinates 46 14 00 N 86 21 00 W 46 23333 N 86 35000 W 46 23333 86 35000CountryUnited StatesStateMichiganArea Total16 377 sq mi 42 420 km2 Population 2020 Total301 609 Density18 sq mi 7 1 km2 Time zonesMost of the Upper PeninsulaUTC 05 00 Eastern Summer DST UTC 04 00 EDT Four counties bordering Wisconsin Gogebic Iron Dickinson and Menominee UTC 06 00 Central Summer DST UTC 05 00 CDT Area code906 a First inhabited by Algonquian speaking native American tribes the area was explored by French colonists then occupied by British forces before being ceded to the newly established United States in the late 18th century After being assigned to various territorial jurisdictions it was granted to the newly formed state of Michigan as part of the settlement of a dispute with Ohio over the city of Toledo The region s exploitable timber resources and the discovery of iron and copper deposits in the 19th century brought immigrants especially French Canadian Finnish Swedish Cornish and Italian The peninsula includes the only counties in the United States where a plurality of residents claim Finnish ancestry 1 With the exhaustion of readily available minerals the area s economy declined in the 20th century largely becoming dependent on logging and tourism The Upper Peninsula contains 29 of the land area of Michigan but only 3 of its total population at the height of the mining and timber era in the early 20th century it had as much as 11 of the state s population Residents are nicknamed Yoopers derived from UP ers and have a strong regional identity enhanced by the perception that the rest of the state neglects them Proposals have been made to establish the UP as a separate state but have failed to gain traction Its largest cities are Marquette Sault Ste Marie Escanaba Menominee Houghton and Iron Mountain Because of the surrounding waters and northern latitude it receives more snow than most of the eastern U S The heavily forested land soil types short growing season and logistical factors e g long distance to market lack of infrastructure make the Upper Peninsula poorly suited for agriculture The region is home to a variety of wildlife including moose wolves coyotes deer foxes bears bobcats eagles hawks owls and smaller animals Contents 1 History 2 Geography 2 1 Wildlife 2 2 Climate 2 3 Time zones 3 Demographics 4 Education 5 Culture 5 1 Regional identity 5 2 Cuisine 6 Economy 6 1 Industries 7 Government 7 1 Politics 7 2 Proposed statehood 7 3 Notable attractions 7 4 Casinos 8 Transportation 8 1 Highways 8 2 Airports 8 3 Ferries and bridges 8 4 Railways 8 5 Bus systems 9 Notable people 10 See also 11 Notes 12 References 13 Further reading 14 External linksHistory EditMain articles Timeline of Michigan history and History of Michigan The Upper Falls of the Tahquamenon River near the northern shore of the peninsula The first known inhabitants of the Upper Peninsula were tribes speaking Algonquian languages They arrived roughly around 800 C E and subsisted chiefly from fishing Early tribes included the Menominee Odawa Ojibwa Nocquet Potawatomi Etienne Brule of France was probably the first European to visit the peninsula crossing the St Marys River around 1620 in search of a route to the Far East 2 French colonists laid claim to the land in the 17th century establishing missions and fur trading posts such as Sault Ste Marie and St Ignace Following the end of the French and Indian War part of the Seven Years War in 1763 the territory was ceded to Great Britain Sault Ste Marie is the oldest European settlement in Michigan and the site of Native American settlements for centuries American Indian tribes formerly allied with the French were dissatisfied with the British occupation which brought new territorial policies Whereas the French cultivated alliances among the Indians the British postwar approach was to treat the tribes as conquered peoples In 1763 tribes united in Pontiac s Rebellion to try to drive the British from the area American Indians captured Fort Michilimackinac at present day Mackinaw City then the principal fort of the British in the Michilimackinac region as well as others and killed hundreds of British In 1764 they began negotiations with the British resulting in temporary peace and changes in objectionable British policies Although the Upper Peninsula nominally became United States territory with the 1783 Treaty of Paris the British did not give up control until 1797 under terms of the Jay Treaty As an American territory the Upper Peninsula was still dominated by the fur trade John Jacob Astor founded the American Fur Company on Mackinac Island in 1808 however the industry began to decline in the 1830s as beaver and other game were overhunted 3 When the Michigan Territory was first established in 1805 it included only the Lower Peninsula and the eastern portion of the Upper Peninsula In 1819 the territory was expanded to include the remainder of the Upper Peninsula all of what later became Wisconsin and part of Minnesota previously included in the Indiana and Illinois Territories When Michigan applied for statehood in the 1830s the proposal corresponded to the original territorial boundaries However there was an armed conflict known as the Toledo War with the state of Ohio over the location of their mutual border Meanwhile the people of Michigan approved a constitution in May 1835 and elected state officials in late autumn 1835 Although the state government was not yet recognized by the United States Congress the territorial government effectively ceased to exist President Andrew Jackson s government offered the remainder of the Upper Peninsula to Michigan if it would cede the Toledo Strip to Ohio A constitutional convention of the state legislature refused but a second convention hastily convened by Governor Stevens Thomson Mason consisting primarily of his supporters agreed in December 1836 to the deal In January 1837 the U S Congress admitted Michigan as a state of the Union Smelter at Quincy Hill Hancock Michigan circa 1906 At the time Michigan was considered the losing party in the compromise The land in the Upper Peninsula was described in a federal report as a sterile region on the shores of Lake Superior destined by soil and climate to remain forever a wilderness 2 This belief changed when rich mineral deposits primarily copper and iron were discovered in the 1840s The Upper Peninsula s mines produced more mineral wealth than the California Gold Rush especially after shipping was improved by the opening of the Soo Locks in 1855 and docks in Marquette in 1859 The Upper Peninsula supplied 90 of America s copper by the 1860s It was the largest supplier of iron ore by the 1890s and production continued to a peak in the 1920s but sharply declined shortly afterward The last copper mine closed in 1995 although the majority of mines had closed decades before Some iron mining continues near Marquette 2 The Eagle Mine a nickel copper mine opened in 2014 4 Thousands of Americans and immigrants moved to the area during the mining boom prompting the federal government to create Fort Wilkins near Copper Harbor to maintain order The first wave were the Cornish from Great Britain with centuries of mining experience followed by Irish Germans and French Canadians During the 1890s Finnish immigrants began settling there in large numbers forming the population plurality in the northwestern half of the peninsula In the early 20th century 75 of the population was foreign born 3 From 1861 to 1865 90 000 Michigan men fought in the American Civil War including 1 209 from the Upper Peninsula Houghton County contributed 460 soldiers while Marquette County Michigan sent 265 5 There was a boundary dispute over the border with Wisconsin The northwesternmost portion of the border follows a line from Lac Vieux Desert to the headwaters of the Montreal River An 1847 survey established the east branch of the Montreal River as the border However the 1908 revision of the Constitution of Michigan specified that the west branch of the Montreal River was the proper border which would have placed an additional 360 square miles of land on the Michigan side of the border 6 A 1926 Supreme Court decision awarded this tract of land to Wisconsin 7 Geography Edit Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore Lake Superior The Upper Peninsula contains 16 377 square miles 42 420 km2 8 about 29 percent of the land area of the state exclusive of territorial waters which constitute about 40 of Michigan s total jurisdictional area It is bounded on the north by Lake Superior on the east by St Marys River on the south by Lake Michigan and Lake Huron and on the west by Wisconsin and counting the water border on Lake Superior by Minnesota It has about 1 700 miles 2 700 km of continuous shoreline with the Great Lakes There are about 4 300 inland lakes the largest of which is Lake Gogebic and 12 000 miles 19 000 km of streams 9 Michigan s Upper Peninsula is bounded on land by Wisconsin to the southwest and west and in territorial waters by Minnesota to the west Ontario to the west north and east and the Door Peninsula of Wisconsin extends into Lake Michigan east of the western Upper Peninsula Five Michigan Upper Peninsula counties include nearby major islands Mackinac Island Round Island and Bois Blanc Island in Lake Huron are in Mackinac County Sugar Island and Neebish Island in the St Marys River and Drummond Island in Lake Huron are in Chippewa County Grand Island is in Alger County Summer Island is Delta County and Isle Royale is part of Keweenaw County The peninsula is divided between the flat swampy areas in the east part of the Great Lakes Plain and the steeper more rugged western half called the Superior Upland part of the Canadian Shield 10 The rock in the western portion is the result of volcanic eruptions and is estimated to be at least 3 5 billion years old much older than the eastern portion and contains the region s ore resources Banded iron formations were deposited 2 billion years ago this is the Marquette Range Supergroup A considerable amount of bedrock is visible Mount Arvon the highest point in Michigan is found in the region as well as the Porcupine and Huron mountains All of the higher areas are the remnants of ancient peaks worn down over millions of years by erosion and glaciers 11 The Keweenaw Peninsula is the northernmost part of the peninsula not counting Isle Royale which is politically part of the UP It projects into Lake Superior and was the site of the first copper boom in the United States part of a larger region of the peninsula called the Copper Country 12 Copper Island is its northernmost section Its lowest elevation is along the shoreline of Lake Huron and Lake Michigan averaging 577 feet 176 m above sea level 13 Its highest elevation is Mount Arvon at 1 979 feet 603 m 14 About one third of the peninsula is government owned recreational forest land today including the Ottawa National Forest and Hiawatha National Forest Although heavily logged in the 19th century the majority of the land was forested with mature trees by the 1970s 2 Further information Protected areas of Michigan Wildlife Edit The Upper Peninsula contains a large variety of wildlife Some of the mammals found in the UP include shrews moles mice white tailed deer moose black bears cougar gray and red foxes wolves river otters martens fishers muskrats bobcats coyotes snowshoe hares cotton tail rabbits porcupines chipmunks squirrels raccoons opossum and bats There is a large variety of birds including hawks osprey owls gulls hummingbirds chickadees robins the state bird woodpeckers warblers and bald eagles In terms of reptiles and amphibians the UP has common garter snakes red bellied snakes pine snakes northern water snakes brown snakes eastern garter snakes eastern fox snakes eastern ribbon back snakes green snakes northern ringneck snakes eastern milk snakes Mackinac and Marquette counties and eastern hognose snakes Menominee County only plus snapping turtles wood turtles and painted turtles the state reptile green frogs bullfrogs northern leopard frogs and salamanders Lakes and rivers contain many fish such as walleye muskie northern pike trout salmon bullhead catfish and bass Invasive species like the alewife and sea lamprey can be found in the Great Lakes The UP also contains many shellfish such as clams aquatic snails and crayfish The American Bird Conservancy and the National Audubon Society have designated several locations as internationally Important Bird Areas 15 Juvenile bald eagle in the Keweenaw Peninsula After being nearly extirpated from the conterminous United States gray wolves survived in the remote northeastern corner of Minnesota and Ontario The repopulation of wolves in this region has occurred naturally as they have expanded their territory There is significant discussion and studies over the presence of eastern cougars in the UP 16 Historically the last of the species or subspecies was extirpated near Newberry in 1906 although there have been sightings of the creatures over the years since 17 18 These reports increased in number over the first decade of the 21st century The Michigan Department of Natural Resources and Environment DNRE b formed a four person team to investigate sightings in the state The biologists with the DNRE currently do not believe that there is a breeding population anywhere in the state rather that the sighted animals are visitors to the state 20 As late as January 2007 the DNRE s official position was that no cougars lived in Michigan 21 Several residents in the state disagree with both current and previous positions on the part of the DNRE 21 22 Researchers at Central Michigan University and the Michigan Wildlife Conservancy in 2006 published the findings of a study using DNA analysis of fecal samples taken in the Upper and Lower peninsulas that showed the presence of cougars at the time 23 These results were disputed in a second journal article in 2007 by other researchers from Eastern Michigan University and the U S Forest Service 24 A citizen s group the Michigan Citizens for Cougar Recognition MCCR independently tracked sightings and in 2009 listed Delta County as the location with the greatest number of reports in the state 25 The DNRE verified five sets of tracks and two trail camera photos in Delta Chippewa Marquette and Menominee counties since 2008 26 DNRE officials acknowledge that there are cougars in the UP but not elsewhere in the state Critics of the DNRE s position on the species including the founder of the MCCR say that the department is attempting to avoid paying for a cougar management program 22 There are also many invasive species that are primarily brought in the ballast water of foreign ships usually from the ocean bordering Northeastern Asia This water is dumped directly into the Great Lakes depositing a variety of fresh and salt water fish and invertebrates most notably the zebra mussel Dreissena polymorpha There are also many plant species that have been transported to the Great Lakes including purple loosestrife Lythrum salicaria 27 and Phragmites australis both of which are considered to be a threat to native hydrophyte wetland plants 28 29 The emerald ash borer was first reported in the UP at Brimley State Park 30 and is considered to be a serious ecological threat to the habitat and economy Climate Edit A cabin in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan after a snowfall The Upper Peninsula has a humid continental climate Dfb in the Koppen climate classification system The Great Lakes have a great effect on the larger part of the peninsula Winters tend to be long cold and snowy for most of the peninsula and because of its northern latitude the daylight hours are short around 8 hours between sunrise and sunset in the winter Lake Superior has the greatest effect on the area especially the northern and western parts Lake effect snow causes many areas to get in excess of 100 250 inches 2 5 6 4 m of snow per year especially in the Keweenaw Peninsula and Gogebic County and to a lesser extent Baraga Marquette and Alger counties making the western UP a prominent part of the midwestern snow belt Records of 390 inches 9 9 m of snow or more have been set in many communities in this area 31 The Keweenaw Peninsula averages more snowfall than any other location east of the Mississippi River 32 Because of the howling storms across Lake Superior which cause dramatic amounts of precipitation it has been said that the lake effect snow makes the Keweenaw Peninsula the snowiest place east of the Rockies Herman averages 236 inches 5 99 m of snow every year 33 Lake effect snow can cause blinding whiteouts in just minutes and some storms can last for days Hancock is found frequently on lists of the snowiest cities in America 34 The banana belt along the Wisconsin border has a more continental climate since most of its weather does not arrive from the lakes Summers tend to be warmer and winter nights much colder Coastal communities have temperatures tempered by the Great Lakes In summer it might be 10 F 5 6 C cooler at lakeside than it is inland and the opposite effect is seen in winter The area of the Upper Peninsula north of Green Bay through Menominee and Escanaba and extending west to Iron River does not have the extreme weather and precipitation found to the north 2 The coldest temperature officially recorded in the Upper Peninsula was 48 F 44 C in Humboldt in January 1915 35 Time zones Edit Like the entire Lower Peninsula most of the Upper Peninsula observes Eastern Time However the four counties bordering Wisconsin are in the Central Time zone In 1967 when the Uniform Time Act came into effect the Upper Peninsula went under year round CST with no daylight saving time 36 In 1973 the majority of the peninsula switched to Eastern Time 37 only the four western border counties of Gogebic Iron Dickinson and Menominee continue to observe Central Time Daylight saving time is observed peninsula wide Demographics EditThe Upper Peninsula remains a predominantly rural region As of the 2020 census the region had a population of 301 608 just more than 3 of Michigan s total population and a decline of 3 2 from 2010 38 According to the 2010 census 103 211 people live in the 12 towns of at least 4 000 people covering 96 5 square miles 250 km2 A total of 116 548 people live in the 18 towns and villages of at least 2 000 people which cover 108 5 square miles 281 km2 less than 1 of the peninsula s land area Cities and villages of the Upper Peninsula 39 City Population Area sq mi Area km2 Marquette 20 629 11 4 30Sault Ste Marie 13 337 14 8 38Escanaba 12 450 12 7 33Menominee 8 488 5 2 13Houghton 8 386 4 3 11Iron Mountain 7 518 7 2 19Ishpeming 6 140 8 7 23Gladstone 5 257 5 0 13Kingsford 5 139 4 3 11Ironwood 5 045 6 6 17Negaunee 4 627 13 8 36Hancock 4 501 2 5 6 5Iron River 3 007 3 5 9 1Norway 2 840 8 8 23Manistique 2 828 3 2 8 3St Ignace 2 306 2 7 7 0Munising 1 986 5 4 14Baraga 1 883 2 2 5 7L Anse 1 874 2 6 6 7Laurium 1 864 0 65 1 7Bessemer 1 805 5 5 14Wakefield 1 702 8 4 22Crystal Falls 1 598 3 64 9 4Newberry 1 446 0 98 2 5Ontonagon 1 285 3 84 9 9Lake Linden 1 014 0 9 2 3Stephenson 816 1 08 2 8Caspian 805 1 43 3 7South Range 750 0 36 0 93Calumet 621 0 2 0 52Mackinac Island 583 18 84 48 8Powers 381 0 99 2 6Gaastra 316 1 64 4 2Daggett 201 1 12 2 9Copper City 187 0 08 0 21Carney 179 1 37 3 5Ahmeek 127 0 06 0 16Alpha 126 0 99 2 6Total 134 428 96 5 250 Upper Peninsula land area and population density by county 8 County Population Land area sq mi Land area km2 Population density per sq mi Population density per km2 Alger 8 842 915 2 370 10 5 4 1Baraga 8 158 898 2 330 9 8 3 8Chippewa 36 785 1 558 4 040 24 7 9 5Delta 36 903 1 171 3 030 31 6 12 2Dickinson 25 947 761 1 970 34 4 13 3Gogebic 14 380 1 101 2 850 14 9 5 8Houghton 37 361 1 009 2 610 36 3 14 0Iron 11 631 1 166 3 020 10 1 3 9Keweenaw 2 046 540 1 400 4 0 1 5Luce 5 339 899 2 330 7 3 2 8Mackinac 10 834 1 021 2 640 10 8 4 2Marquette 66 017 1 808 4 680 37 1 14 3Menominee 23 502 1 044 2 700 23 0 8 9Ontonagon 5 816 1 311 3 400 5 1 2 0Schoolcraft 8 047 1 171 3 030 7 2 2 8Total 301 608 16 377 42 420 19 0 7 3 Ruins found in the western Upper PeninsulaFederal censuses indicate that the population of the Upper Peninsula grew throughout the 19th century as European settlers moved into the region then boomed around the turn of the century and experienced gradual decline overall during most of the 20th century 40 41 The decline was uneven however the population in the largest cities Marquette Sault Ste Marie and Escanaba grew somewhat while smaller cities and non urban areas have generally declined in population The six westernmost counties experienced the largest decrease from a 1920 population of 153 674 to a 2020 population of 79 392 Many ghost towns exist in the region 42 A indicates an increase in population from the previous census and a indicates a decrease in population from the previous census Population by census year of the Upper Peninsula by county County 1830 1840 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020Alger 1 238 5 868 7 675 9 983 9 327 10 167 10 007 9 250 8 568 9 225 8 972 9 862 9 601 8 842 Baraga 1 804 3 036 4 320 6 125 7 662 9 168 9 356 8 037 7 151 7 789 8 484 7 954 8 735 8 860 8 158 Chippewa 626 534 898 1 603 1 689 5 248 12 018 21 338 24 472 24 818 25 047 27 807 29 206 32 655 32 412 29 029 34 604 38 543 38 520 36 785 Delta 1 172 2 542 6 812 15 330 23 881 30 108 30 909 32 280 34 037 32 913 34 298 35 924 38 947 37 780 38 520 37 069 36 903 Dickinson 17 890 20 524 19 456 29 941 28 731 24 844 23 917 23 753 25 341 26 831 27 427 26 168 25 947 Gogebic 13 166 16 738 23 333 33 225 31 577 31 797 27 053 24 370 20 676 19 686 18 052 17 370 16 427 14 380 Houghton 708 9 234 13 879 22 473 35 389 66 063 88 098 71 930 52 851 47 631 39 771 34 654 34 652 37 872 35 446 36 016 36 628 37 361 Iron 4 432 8 990 15 164 22 107 20 805 20 243 17 692 17 184 13 813 13 635 13 175 13 138 11 817 11 631 Keweenaw 4 205 4 270 2 894 3 217 7 156 6 322 5 076 4 004 2 918 2 417 2 264 1 963 1 701 2 301 2 156 2 046 Luce 2 455 2 983 4 004 6 149 6 528 7 423 8 147 7 827 6 789 6 659 5 763 7 024 6 631 5 339 Mackinac 877 923 3 598 1 938 1 716 2 902 7 830 7 703 9 249 8 026 8 783 9 438 9 287 10 853 9 660 10 178 10 674 11 943 11 113 10 834 Marquette 136 2 821 15 033 25 394 39 521 41 239 46 739 45 786 44 076 47 144 47 654 56 154 64 686 74 101 70 887 64 634 67 077 66 017 Menominee 1 791 11 987 33 639 27 046 25 648 23 778 23 652 24 883 25 299 24 685 24 587 26 201 24 920 25 109 24 029 23 502 Ontonagon 389 4 568 2 845 2 565 3 756 6 197 8 650 12 428 11 114 11 359 10 282 10 584 10 548 9 861 8 854 7 818 6 780 5 816 Schoolcraft 16 78 1 575 5 818 7 889 8 681 9 977 8 451 9 524 9 148 8 953 8 226 8 575 8 302 8 903 8 485 8 047 Total 1 503 1 457 5 745 21 414 43 700 85 030 180 522 261 362 325 626 332 556 318 676 323 544 302 258 304 952 304 347 319 757 313 915 317 213 311 361 301 608 Education EditThe Upper Peninsula of Michigan has three state universities Lake Superior State University in Sault Ste Marie Michigan Technological University in Houghton and Northern Michigan University in Marquette one private university Finlandia University located in Hancock Michigan on the Keweenaw Peninsula and five community colleges Bay Mills Community College in Brimley Bay de Noc Community College in Escanaba and Iron Mountain Gogebic Community College in Ironwood and Keweenaw Bay Ojibwa Community College in Baraga Culture Edit Da Yoopers Tourist Trap near Ishpeming features a host of items in its museum and store that play up Yooper stereotypes Early settlers included multiple waves of people from Nordic countries and people of Finnish ancestry make up 16 of the peninsula s population the UP is home to the highest concentration of Finns outside Europe and the only counties of the United States where a plurality of residents claim Finnish ancestry The Finnish sauna and the concept of sisu have been adopted widely by residents of the Upper Peninsula The television program Finland Calling was for a long period the only Finnish language television broadcast in the United States it aired on Marquette station WLUC TV from March 25 1962 until March 29 2015 43 Finlandia University America s only college with Finnish roots is located in Hancock 44 Street signs in Hancock appear in English and Finnish to celebrate this heritage Other sizable ethnic communities in the Upper Peninsula include French Canadian German Cornish Italian and Ojibwe ancestry Upper Peninsula natives speak a dialect influenced by Scandinavian and French Canadian speech A popular bumper sticker a parody of the Say YES to Michigan slogan promoted by state tourism officials shows an outline of the Upper Peninsula and the slogan Say ya to da UP eh The dialect and culture are captured in many songs by Da Yoopers a comedy music and skit troupe from Ishpeming Michigan Throughout the Upper Peninsula there are newspapers such as The Daily News in Iron Mountain The Menominee County Journal in Stephenson The Daily Mining Gazette in Houghton The Daily Press in Escanaba and the Sault Ste Marie Evening News that serve the rest of the UP The Mining Journal based in Marquette is the only daily newspaper that publishes a Sunday edition which is distributed with the exception of Chippewa and eastern Mackinac counties across the entire UP the other six days are distributed in its local area only The Keweenaw Peninsula is home to several ski areas Mont Ripley just outside Houghton is popular among students of Michigan Technological University the university actually owns the mountain Further up the peninsula in the small town of Lac La Belle is Mt Bohemia A skiing purist s resort Bohemia is a self proclaimed experts only mountain and it does not groom its heavily gladed slopes 45 Other ski areas are Pine Mountain located in Iron Mountain Norway Mountain in the town of the same name and the Porcupine Mountains located in Ontonagon Houghton is where professional ice hockey was first started in 1904 46 47 Regional identity Edit A Yooper pasty beef Today the western Upper Peninsula is home to about 173 887 people while the eastern Upper Peninsula is home to about 133 499 people a total of 307 386 only about 3 of the state s population living in almost one third of the state s land area 48 49 Residents are known as Yoopers from UP ers and many consider themselves Yoopers before they consider themselves Michiganders 50 People living in the Lower Peninsula are commonly called trolls by Upper Peninsula residents as they live Under the Bridge This regionalism is not only a result of the physical separation of the two peninsulas but also the history of the state Residents of the western Upper Peninsula take on some of the cultural identities of both Wisconsin and Michigan In terms of sports fandom residents may support Detroit professional teams or those of Wisconsin particularly the Green Bay Packers This is a result of both proximity and the broadcast and print media of the area The four counties that border Wisconsin are also in the Central Time Zone unlike the rest of Michigan which is on Eastern time In some cases commercial cartographers draw incorrect maps that inadvertently annex the Upper Peninsula into Wisconsin 51 Cuisine Edit The Upper Peninsula has a distinctive local cuisine The pasty pronounced pass tee a kind of meat turnover originally brought to the region by Cornish miners is popular among locals and tourists alike Pasty varieties include chicken venison pork hamburger and pizza all of which many restaurants serve 50 Many restaurants serve potato sausage and cudighi a spicy Italian meat Finnish immigrants contributed nisu a cardamom flavored sweet bread limppu an Eastern Finnish rye bread pannukakku a variant on the pancake with a custard flavor viili sometimes spelled fellia a stretchy fermented Finnish milk and korppu hard slices of toasted cinnamon bread traditionally dipped in coffee Some Finnish foods such as juusto squeaky cheese essentially a cheese curd like Leipajuusto and saunamakkara a ring bologna sausage have become so ubiquitous in Upper Peninsula cuisine that they are now commonly found in most grocery stores and supermarkets Maple syrup is a highly prized local delicacy 52 Fresh Great Lakes fish such as the lake trout whitefish and in the spring smelt are widely eaten There is minimal concern about contamination of fish from Lake Superior waters 53 Smoked fish is also popular Thimbleberry jam and chokecherry jelly are a treat 54 Economy EditIndustries Edit The Quincy Mine near Hancock mined copper until 1945 The Upper Peninsula is rich in mineral deposits including iron copper nickel and silver Small amounts of gold have also been discovered and mined In the 19th century mining dominated the economy and the UP became home to many isolated company towns For many years mines in the Keweenaw Peninsula were the world s largest producers of copper see Copper mining in Michigan The mines began declining as early as 1913 with most closing temporarily during the Great Depression Mines reopened during World War II but almost all quickly closed after the war ended The last copper mine in the Copper Country was the White Pine mine which closed in 1995 Marquette County sits along the Marquette Iron Range which sent out a significant portion of the iron ore mined in the United States for many years citation needed As of 2020 update Marquette County is home to one remaining iron ore mine and one nickel and copper mine 55 56 From approximately 1870 to 1915 about 32 quarries mined Jacobsville Sandstone in the Upper Peninsula particularly near Marquette and the community of Jacobsville The sandstone was used in many buildings both locally and around the United States 57 Since logging of white pine began in the 1880s timber has been an important industry 58 Stands of hemlock and hardwood in the western reaches of the forest experienced larger scale selection cutting beginning in the mid 20th century Because of the highly seasonal climate and the short growing season agriculture is limited in the Upper Peninsula though potatoes strawberries and a few other small fruits are grown Tourism has become the main industry in recent decades In 2005 ShermanTravel LLC listed the Upper Peninsula as 10 in its assessment of all travel destinations worldwide 59 60 The peninsula has extensive coastline on the Great Lakes large tracts of state and national forests cedar swamps more than 150 waterfalls and low population densities Because of the skiing camping boating fishing snowmobiling hunting and hiking opportunities many Lower Peninsula and Wisconsin families spend their vacations in the UP and tourists visit from Detroit Chicago Grand Rapids Milwaukee and other metropolitan areas The opening of the Mackinac Bridge in 1957 see below has made the Upper Peninsula easily accessible to tourists from the Lower Peninsula and southeast of Michigan and has helped make the UP a year round tourist destination In 2004 microbreweries began opening across the Upper Peninsula 14 opened by 2014 and 23 by 2019 61 62 In 2019 their annual economic impact totaled 346 million 62 63 As of 2018 update three of Michigan s fifty largest breweries were in the Upper Peninsula Keweenaw Brewing Company Blackrocks Brewery and the Ore Dock Brewing Company 64 Government Edit Upper Peninsula welcome sign along I 75 Counties in the Upper Peninsula There are 15 counties in the Upper Peninsula State prisons are located in Baraga Marquette Munising Newberry and Kincheloe Politics Edit Upper Peninsula vote by party in presidential elections 65 Year REP DEM Others2020 66 57 34 95 351 41 04 68 249 1 62 2 6952016 67 56 40 82 018 37 77 54 923 5 83 8 4762012 68 50 80 73 529 47 49 68 747 1 71 2 4772008 69 46 12 69 647 51 82 78 257 2 06 3 1082004 70 51 52 78 276 47 31 71 888 1 17 1 7812000 71 50 61 70 256 45 95 63 791 3 43 4 7681996 72 36 75 48 134 51 05 66 856 12 20 15 9741992 73 33 37 47 447 46 46 66 060 20 18 28 6951988 74 47 86 63 151 51 65 68 152 0 49 6451984 75 54 07 75 591 45 56 63 695 0 37 5161980 76 47 78 71 025 44 12 65 579 8 10 12 0461976 77 48 04 67 596 50 70 71 338 1 25 1 7621972 78 54 08 72 967 44 23 59 670 1 69 2 2791968 79 44 75 55 070 50 26 61 858 4 99 6 1411964 80 32 40 41 267 67 46 85 923 0 14 1831960 81 48 05 64 764 51 76 69 765 0 19 2521956 82 58 72 77 576 41 12 54 326 0 17 2191952 83 55 09 74 639 44 45 60 230 0 46 6251948 84 47 28 58 346 48 46 59 801 4 27 5 2651944 85 45 63 58 704 53 88 69 310 0 49 6301940 86 46 14 69 164 53 26 79 835 0 67 1 0031936 87 39 21 54 153 58 78 81 176 2 02 2 7841932 88 48 73 61 473 47 57 60 012 3 71 4 6771928 89 61 53 65 913 37 04 39 677 1 44 1 5421924 90 68 51 61 396 8 10 7 261 23 39 20 9641920 91 74 50 61 475 19 24 15 876 6 27 5 1711916 92 59 51 34 269 35 31 20 333 5 17 2 9791912 93 94 31 41 15 825 19 46 9 803 49 14 24 7571908 95 72 69 37 194 21 12 10 805 6 20 3 1701904 96 79 83 37 400 14 87 6 965 5 31 2 4861900 97 73 00 34 180 24 31 11 382 2 69 1 2581896 98 68 39 29 591 28 65 12 397 2 95 1 278During most of the System of 1896 the Upper Peninsula was overwhelmingly Republican even by the standards of Michigan during this era However the region s politics shifted from 1924 when the Upper Peninsula was the strongest region in Michigan for the insurgent candidacy of Progressive Robert M La Follette 99 and in the following years with the increasing unionization of its large mining workforce From the New Deal until the Clinton era the Upper Peninsula tended to vote for the Democratic Party due to its legacy of mining and high union membership As union strength in the peninsula declined since the turn of the century the region has become more leaning towards the Republican Party though split ticket voting at the local level became a common practice citation needed In the 2012 presidential election Republican candidate Mitt Romney carried all but two counties In the 2016 and 2020 presidential elections Republican candidate Donald Trump won all counties except Marquette County 2012 presidential election 100 101 County Registered voters Votes cast Romney Ryan Obama Biden ResultAlger 4 671 4 618 2 330 2 212 REPBaraga 3 540 3 490 1 866 1 574 REPChippewa 15 790 15 564 8 278 7 100 REPDelta 18 968 18 050 9 534 8 330 REPDickinson 12 950 12 810 7 688 4 952 REPGogebic 7 689 7 576 3 444 4 058 DEMHoughton 15 477 15 282 8 196 6 801 REPIron 6 065 5 988 3 224 2 687 REPKeweenaw 1 411 1 392 774 582 REPLuce 3 401 2 596 1 580 991 REPMackinac 6 170 6 099 3 397 2 652 REPMarquette 32 551 32 194 13 606 18 115 DEMMenominee 11 043 10 923 5 564 5 242 REPOntonagon 3 599 3 539 1 906 1 586 REPSchoolcraft 4 104 4 048 2 142 1 865 REPTotal 147 429 144 168 73 529 70 639 REPAll counties in the UP are part of Michigan s 1st congressional district Jack Bergman a Republican has been the U S representative for this district since January 2017 In Michigan s 2010 gubernatorial election Republican Rick Snyder carried every UP county but one Gogebic on his way to victory over his Democratic opponent Virg Bernero 102 Proposed statehood Edit Main article Superior proposed U S state Due to the geographic separation and perceived cultural and political differences from the Lower Peninsula at various times there have been proposals for the Upper Peninsula to secede from Michigan as a 51st state named Superior sometimes including portions of northern Wisconsin and or the northern Lower Peninsula Several prominent legislators including the region s long serving state representative Dominic Jacobetti attempted unsuccessfully to gain passage of such a bill in the 1970s 103 It would be the least populous state in the union and as stronger connections to the rest of Michigan have developed since completion of the Mackinac Bridge in the 1950s the proposal has remained largely dormant since the 1970s 104 Notable attractions Edit Adventure Mine Agate Falls Au Sable Light Station Black River National Forest Scenic Byway Bond Falls Brockway Mountain Drive Calumet Theatre Calumet Downtown Historic District Castle Rock Copper Harbor Copper Peak Ironwood Township DeYoung Family Zoo Fayette Historic State Park Fort Mackinac Fort Wilkins Historic State Park Garlyn Zoo Grand Hotel Mackinac Island Grand Island National Recreation Area Grand Sable Dunes The Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum Iron County Historical Museum Complex Caspian Iron Mountain Iron Mine Vulcan Isle Royale National Park The Keystone Bridge Ramsay Michigan Keweenaw National Historical Park Keweenaw Waterway and Portage Lake Lift Bridge Kitch iti kipi Lake Superior Lake Superior State University Lakers Laughing Whitefish Falls Mackinac Bridge Mackinac Island Marquette Arts and Culture Center Marquette The Marquette Lighthouse Marquette Mountain Ski Resort Michigan Iron Industry Museum Negaunee Michigan Technological University Mount Bohemia ski center with the highest vertical drop 900 feet 270 m in the Midwest Munising Falls National Ski Hall of Fame Northern Michigan University Marquette Ore Dock Oswald s Bear Ranch Paulding Light Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore Pine Mountain ski jump in Iron Mountain is one of the largest artificial ski jumps in the world 105 Point Iroquois Lighthouse Porcupine Mountains State Park Presque Isle Park Marquette Michigan Quincy Copper Mine offering guided tours Seney National Wildlife Refuge Ski Brule in Iron River The Soo Locks Suicide Hill Ski Jump Ishpeming Michigan 106 Sylvania Wilderness Tahquamenon Falls State Park Upper Peninsula Children s Museum Marquette Casinos Edit American Indian casinos contribute to the tourist attractions and are popular in the UP Originally the casinos were simple one room affairs Some of the casinos are now quite elaborate and are being developed as part of resort and conference facilities including features such as golf courses pool and spa dining and rooms to accommodate guests Bay Mills Resort amp Casino Brimley Island Resort amp Casino Harris Kewadin Casinos Christmas Hessel Manistique St Ignace Sault Ste Marie Kings Club Casino Brimley Lac Vieux Desert Casino Watersmeet Ojibwa Casinos Baraga MarquetteTransportation Edit Straits of Mackinac and bridge in winter looking south from St Ignace The Upper Peninsula is separated from the Lower by the Straits of Mackinac five miles 8 km across at the narrowest and is connected to it by the Mackinac Bridge at St Ignace one of the longest suspension bridges in the world Until the bridge was completed in 1957 travel between the two peninsulas was difficult and slow and sometimes even impossible during winter In 1881 the Mackinac Transportation Company was established by three railroads the Michigan Central Railroad the Grand Rapids and Indiana Railroad and the Detroit Mackinac and Marquette Railroad to operate a railroad car ferry across the Straits Beginning in 1923 the State of Michigan operated automobile ferries between the two peninsulas At the busiest times of year the wait was several hours long much longer at holidays 107 In winter travel was possible over the ice only after the straits had solidly frozen Highways Edit There are one Interstate Highway five US Highways and 24 other state highways in the Upper Peninsula Interstate 75 is the only freeway in the region and runs from the Mackinac Bridge at St Ignace to the International Bridge at Sault Ste Marie Two highways run the east west length of the peninsula US Highway 2 along the south and M 28 to the north US 41 runs north south through the central and western UP connecting Menominee Escanaba Marquette and Houghton before terminating near the tip of the Keweenaw at Copper Harbor M 185 encircles Mackinac Island as the only state highway in the country without motor vehicles The United States Forest Service and Federal Highway Administration have designated certain roads within the several National Forests in the UP as Federal Forest Highways 108 State maintained highways closest to the Upper Peninsula s Great Lakes shorelines are marked by the Michigan Department of Transportation MDOT with signs indicating that they are part of the Great Lakes Circle Tour a designated scenic road system connecting all of the Great Lakes and the St Lawrence River 109 MDOT has also designated five UP highways as Pure Michigan Byways for their historic recreational or scenic qualities 110 111 They are US 2 in Iron County Iron County Heritage Trail and in Schoolcraft and Mackinac counties Top of the Lake Scenic Byway US 41 from Houghton to Copper Harbor Copper County Trail also a National Scenic Byway M 35 UP Hidden Coast Recreational Heritage Trail M 123 Tahquamenon Scenic Heritage Route and M 134 M 134 North Huron Byway Airports Edit Main article Airports of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan There are 43 airports in the Upper Peninsula Of these six airports have commercial passenger service Gogebic Iron County Airport north of Ironwood Houghton County Memorial Airport southwest of Calumet Ford Airport west of Iron Mountain Sawyer International Airport south of Marquette Delta County Airport in Escanaba and Chippewa County International Airport south of Sault Ste Marie There are 19 other public use airports with a hard surface runway These are used for general aviation and charter Notably Mackinac Island Beaver Island and Drummond Island are all accessible by airports There are five public access airports with turf runways and thirteen airports for the private use of their owners citation needed There is only one control tower in the Upper Peninsula at Sawyer 112 Ferries and bridges Edit The Cut River Bridge in Mackinac County is another notable bridge of the Upper Peninsula The Eastern Upper Peninsula Transportation Authority operates car ferries in its area These include ferries for Sugar Island Neebish Island and Drummond Island Two ferry companies run passenger ferries from St Ignace to Mackinac Island The three major bridges in the Upper Peninsula are Mackinac Bridge connecting the Lower Peninsula of Michigan with the Upper Sault Ste Marie International Bridge which connects the city of Sault Ste Marie to its twin city of Sault Ste Marie in Canada and Portage Lift Bridge which crosses Portage Lake The Portage Lift Bridge is the world s heaviest and widest double decked vertical lift bridge Its center span lifts to provide about 100 feet 30 m of clearance for ships Since rail traffic was discontinued in the Keweenaw the lower deck is used to accommodate snowmobile traffic in the winter As the only land based link between the north and south sections of the Keweenaw Peninsula the bridge is crucial to transportation Railways Edit Lake Superior and Ishpeming Railroad Transports iron ore over a 16 mile 26 km line from the Empire Tilden Mine operated by Cleveland Cliffs Inc south of Ishpeming and Negaunee to Marquette s port on Lake Superior Two railroads originally crossed the Upper Peninsula east to west the Minneapolis St Paul and Sault Ste Marie Railway informally known as the Soo Line running west from Sault Ste Marie roughly along the Lake Michigan shore and the Duluth South Shore and Atlantic Railroad running west from St Ignace roughly along the Lake Superior shore In 1960 both railroads were merged into the Soo Line Railroad the U S arm of the Canadian Pacific Railway The Soo Line trackage in the Upper Peninsula was purchased by the Wisconsin Central Railroad in 1987 In 1997 the Wisconsin Central also purchased from the Union Pacific Railroad the former Chicago and North Western Railway line running into the Upper Peninsula from Wisconsin The Wisconsin Central was in turn purchased by the Canadian National Railway in 2001 The Canadian National now operates much of the remaining railroad trackage in the Upper Peninsula Escanaba and Lake Superior Railroad Chartered in 1898 the E amp LS is an industrial beltline railroad with 347 miles 558 km of trackage connecting Escanaba Ontonagon Republic and Green Bay Wisconsin with a common junction at Channing and a spur to Nestoria from Sidnaw Bus systems Edit Despite its rural character there are public buses in several counties of the Upper Peninsula 113 Campus of Michigan Technological University in Houghton MTU was founded as the Michigan Mining School in 1885 Notable people EditRobert J Flaherty the filmmaker who directed and produced the documentary Nanook of the North in 1922 from Iron Mountain George Gipp the Gipper immortalized in the film Knute Rockne All American was born in Laurium 114 He was the first All American player of the Notre Dame football program Crystal Hayes 2005 Miss Michigan from Rock Tom Izzo Michigan State basketball coach a native of Iron Mountain attended Northern Michigan University Clarence L Kelly Johnson aircraft engineer and aeronautical innovator was born in Ishpeming John Lautner one of Frank Lloyd Wright s most successful Taliesin fellows a native of Marquette and alumnus of NMU Mitchell Leisen film director was born Menominee in 1898 Steve Mariucci former San Francisco 49ers and Detroit Lions head coach a native of Iron Mountain attended Northern Michigan University Terry O Quinn actor on Lost was born in Sault Ste Marie in 1952 and grew up in Newberry Chase Osborn was the only Governor of Michigan from the Upper Peninsula 1911 1913 Pam Reed ultrarunner grew up in Palmer and graduated from Michigan Technological University Gene Ronzani was a professional football running back for the Chicago Bears and head coach of the Green Bay Packers from 1950 to 1953 born in Iron Mountain Rob Rubick Detroit Lions tight end and current Fox Sports Detroit analyst from Newberry Glenn T Seaborg a Nobel Prize winning chemist and major contributor in the discovery of several of the transuranium elements was born in Ishpeming 115 Howard Schultz chairman of Starbucks Co a Northern Michigan University alumnus Mike Shaw professional wrestler was born in Skandia Matthew Songer founder of Pioneer Surgical Technology lives in Marquette Mary Chase Perry Stratton founder of Pewabic Pottery was born in Hancock 116 Lou Thesz professional wrestler who held the NWA World Heavyweight Championship longer than anyone in history was born in Banat on April 24 1916 James Tolkan an actor who appeared in Back to the Future and Top Gun born in Calumet John D Voelker Justice of the Michigan Supreme Court wrote the best selling book Anatomy of a Murder under the pen name Robert Traver Directed by Otto Preminger the film was shot in Big Bay and Ishpeming with some courtroom scenes in Marquette Bill Ivey the former head of the National Endowment for the Arts under the Clinton Administration was born in Calumet Nick Baumgartner Olympic gold medalist in mixed snowboard cross at the 2022 Winter Olympics is from Iron River See also Edit Michigan portalList of counties in Michigan Heikki Lunta mythological character Stormy Kromer capNotes Edit Bois Blanc Township an island in the Straits of Mackinac in Mackinac County is in area code 231 The DNRE was split back into the Michigan Department of Natural Resources DNR and the Michigan Department of Environmental Quality DEQ on January 4 2011 19 References Edit Simon James amp Finney Patricia August 10 14 2008 Publication Access and Preservation of Scandinavian Immigrant Press in North America PDF Quebec Center for Research Libraries Retrieved October 27 2010 a b c d e Hunt Mary amp Hunt Don 2007 Hunts Guide to Michigan s Upper Peninsula Albion Michigan Midwestern Guides ISBN 978 0 9709094 0 4 Retrieved March 31 2007 a b Center for Upper Peninsula Studies n d History of the Upper Peninsula Northern Michigan University Archived from the original on September 5 2006 About Eagle Mine Eagle Mine Archived from the original on September 3 2017 Retrieved September 3 2017 Upper Michigan in the Civil War This Week in the American Civil War Self published unreliable source Kellogg Louise P 1917 The Michigan Wisconsin Boundary Dispute Wisconsin Magazine of History Retrieved July 17 2019 Evolution of Michigan s Legal Boundaries Michigan State University Libraries Retrieved July 17 2019 a b Census 2010 Gazetteer Files Archived from the original on December 20 2012 Retrieved July 20 2013 When you enter Michigan s Upper Peninsula You enter a world of the finest attractions and unique experiences unmatched anywhere in the Midwest Michigan s Upper Peninsula Archived from the original on July 29 2013 Retrieved July 21 2013 Michigan Geography Netstate September 24 2009 Retrieved July 18 2010 1 dead link Murdoch Angus 1964 Boom Copper The Story of the First U S Mining Boom The Book Concern Physical features of Great Lakes Michigan State University Department of Geography Environment amp Spatial Sciences Retrieved May 1 2020 Mount Arvon Pure Michigan Michigan Economic Development Corporation December 29 2016 Retrieved May 1 2020 Michigan Important Bird Areas National Audubon Society September 12 2016 Retrieved March 6 2020 Butz Bob amp Tischendof Jay W Foreword 2005 Beast of Never Cat of God The Search for the Eastern Puma Guilford CT Lyons Press ISBN 978 1 59228 446 7 Johnson Kirk March April 2002 The mountain lions of Michigan Endangered Species Update Ann Arbor School of Natural Resources and Environment University of Michigan 19 2 27 31 Bolgiano Chris amp Roberts Jerry August 10 2005 The Eastern Cougar Historic Accounts Scientific Investigations And New Evidence Mechanicsburg PA Stackpole Books pp 67 78 ISBN 978 0 8117 3218 5 Snyder Richard D January 4 2011 Executive Order No 2011 1 Executive Reorganization Department of Natural Resources and Environment Creating the Department of Natural Resources and Department of Environmental Quality PDF Lansing Executive Office Retrieved October 15 2017 On the Cougar Trail Team Investigates Sightings Tracks Throughout UP State Daily Press Escanaba Michigan March 18 2010 a b Donnelly Francis X January 27 2007 Roar of Michigan Cougar Debate Grows Louder The Detroit News a b Aupperlee Aaron December 21 2009 Cougar Sightings Growing Common DNR Says it Has No Proof Big Cats Are Lurking But Many Folks Say Otherwise The Grand Rapids Press p A3 Swanson Bradley J amp Rusz Patrick J April 2006 Detection and Classification of Cougars in Michigan Using Low Copy DNA Sources American Midland Naturalist University of Notre Dame 155 2 363 372 doi 10 1674 0003 0031 2006 155 363 DACOCI 2 0 CO 2 ISSN 0003 0031 JSTOR 4094651 S2CID 85823961 subscription required Kurta Allen Schwartz Michael K amp Anderson Charles R Jr October 2007 Does a Population of Cougars Exist in Michigan American Midland Naturalist University of Notre Dame 158 2 467 71 doi 10 1674 0003 0031 2007 158 467 DAPOCE 2 0 CO 2 ISSN 0003 0031 S2CID 85902836 Retrieved November 4 2010 subscription required Michigan Citizens for Cougar Recognition December 21 2009 Top 10 Counties for Cougar Sightings The Grand Rapids Press p A4 DNRE Confirms Cougar Sighting in Michigan The Morning Sun Mt Pleasant Michigan June 21 2010 Archived from the original on March 2 2012 Retrieved October 27 2010 Invasive Species Michigan Department of Natural Resources and Environment 2010 Retrieved October 27 2010 Invasive Phragmites Control and Management Michigan Department of Natural Resources and Environment December 19 2007 Archived from the original on December 8 2010 Retrieved November 5 2010 A Guide to the Control and Management of Invasive Phragmites PDF Michigan Department of Natural Resources and Environment Retrieved November 5 2010 Storer Andrew J 2008 The History of Emerald Ash Borer Discoveries in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan from 2005 to 2007 PDF US Forest Service Archived from the original PDF on October 20 2011 Retrieved November 25 2011 Ruhf Robert J Lake Effect Precipitation in Michigan Retrieved October 27 2010 Mean Monthly and Annual Snowfall Climate Source Archived from the original on June 9 2008 Retrieved May 7 2008 Burt Christopher C amp Stroud Mark 2007 Extreme Weather A Guide and Resource Book New York W W Norton amp Company p 80 ISBN 978 0 393 33015 1 record snowfall keweenaw peninsula Erdman Jonathan December 13 2011 America s snowiest places NBC News Archived from the original on January 29 2013 Retrieved August 29 2012 Huizinga Andrew n d Michigan s Extreme and Significant Weather Events GEO 333 Michigan State University Retrieved September 22 2016 State Constitutions Referendum Row Time July 7 1967 Archived from the original on November 13 2007 Retrieved July 25 2007 Law Gwillim February 19 2007 United States Time Zones Statoids Retrieved July 25 2007 Bureau US Census Michigan s Population Topped 10 Million in 2020 Census gov Retrieved October 14 2021 U S Census website Retrieved July 20 2013 University of Virginia Geospatial and Statistical Data Center 2004 Historical Census Browser University of Virginia Library Retrieved February 26 2010 Forstall Richard October 14 1994 Population of Counties by Decennial Census 1900 to 1990 US Bureau of the Census Population Division Retrieved February 26 2010 Dodge R L 1996 Michigan Ghost Towns of the Upper Peninsula 6th ed Glendon ISBN 978 0 934884 02 0 Steele Anne March 27 2015 After 53 Years Mr Pellonpaa Is Finnished Wall Street Journal Retrieved September 20 2015 Hunt Mary amp Hunt Don 2007 Keweenaw Peninsula Hunts Guide to Michigan s Upper Peninsula Albion Michigan Midwestern Guides ISBN 978 0 9709094 0 4 Archived from the original on October 30 2014 Retrieved October 1 2006 Warning Mount Bohemia Archived from the original on May 1 2008 Retrieved February 9 2009 Sproule William J 2019 Houghton The Birthplace of Professional Hockey Calumet Michigan Copper Island Printing Fischler Shirley W Fischler Stanley I Eskenazi Gerald August 4 2021 ice hockey Encyclopedia Britannica Retrieved April 16 2022 Western Upper Peninsula PUMA MI Data USA Retrieved July 30 2018 Eastern Upper Peninsula PUMA MI Data USA Retrieved July 30 2018 a b Abbey Lambertz Kate March 27 2014 You ve Probably Never Heard of a Yooper But Here s Why You ll Wish You Were One HuffPost Retrieved July 30 2018 Keith Emma July 11 2019 Mountain Dew apologizes to Upper Peninsula will make special label Detroit Free Press Detroit Retrieved July 12 2019 Hunt Mary amp Hunt Don 2007 Specialty Foods Hunts Guide to Michigan s Upper Peninsula Albion Michigan Midwestern Guides ISBN 978 0 9709094 0 4 Retrieved March 31 2007 Michigan Fish amp Game Advisory PDF Michigan Department of Community Health 2010 Retrieved February 5 2011 Travel amp Leisure Driving Michigan s Upper Peninsula Travelandleisure com Archived from the original on September 14 2008 Retrieved July 18 2010 Barnes John End of Empire mine end of the life The Detroit News Retrieved February 15 2021 Bowers Lisa Eagle East producing ore The Mining Journal Retrieved February 15 2021 H James Bourque and Associates July 1 1999 Dimension Stone Feasibility Study PDF Michigan Department of Environmental Quality p 5 Retrieved April 7 2012 Graham Samuel A October 1941 Climax Forests of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan Ecology Ecological Society of America 22 4 355 362 doi 10 2307 1930708 JSTOR 1930708 Top 10 Summer Destinations ShermansTravel Archived from the original on February 26 2008 Retrieved May 7 2008 Top 10 Summer Destinations MSNBC Archived from the original on June 23 2007 Retrieved June 24 2007 Baur Joe May 7 2014 Pioneers U P craft beer is a growing business Second Wave Media Retrieved May 17 2020 a b Markle Tyler October 1 2019 Craft brewing a 300M industry in the Upper Peninsula Upper Michigan s Source Negaunee Michigan WLUC TV Retrieved May 17 2020 Peterson Jane December 7 2019 Breweries provide a sense of community for Marquette residents The Oakland Press Archived from the original on December 7 2019 Retrieved May 17 2020 Mack Julie September 19 2019 Michigan s top 50 beer brewers based on 2018 in state sales MLive Retrieved May 17 2020 Dave Leip s Atlas of U S Presidential Elections Retrieved December 19 2016 MI US President 2020 11 03 Geoelectionsourcampaigns com Election results 2016 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 2012 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 2008 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 2004 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 2000 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 1996 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 1992 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 1988 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 1984 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 1980 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 1976 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 1972 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 1968 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 1964 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Election results 1960 Dave Leip s U S Election Atlas Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1956 Geoelections xlsx file for 15 Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1952 Geoelections xlsx file for 15 Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1948 Geoelections xlsx file for 30 including full minor party figures Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1944 Geoelections xlsx file for 15 Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1940 Geoelections xlsx file for 15 Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1936 Geoelections xlsx file for 15 Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1932 Geoelections xlsx file for 15 Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1928 Geoelections xlsx file for 15 Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1924 Geoelections xlsx file for 30 including full minor party figures Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1920 Geoelections xlsx file for 30 including full minor party figures Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1916 Geoelections xlsx file for 30 including full minor party figures Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1912 Geoelections xlsx file for 15 Popular Vote for Theodore Roosevelt at the Presidential Election for 1912 Geoelections xlsx file for 15 Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1908 Geoelections xlsx file for 30 including full minor party figures Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1904 Geoelections xlsx file for 30 including full minor party figures Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1900 Geoelections xlsx file for 30 including full minor party figures Popular Vote at the Presidential Election for 1896 Geoelections xlsx file for 30 including full minor party figures Popular Vote at the Presidential Election of 1924 for Robert M La Follette Geoelections xlsx file for 15 Archived copy Archived from the original on February 18 2013 Retrieved June 3 2013 a href Template Cite web html title Template Cite web cite web a CS1 maint archived copy as title link Archived copy Archived from the original on May 18 2013 Retrieved June 3 2013 a href Template Cite web html title Template Cite web cite web a CS1 maint archived copy as title link Archived copy Archived from the original on January 21 2013 Retrieved January 3 2013 a href Template Cite web html title Template Cite web cite web a CS1 maint archived copy as title link The Dominic J Jacobetti Collection Archived from the original on September 7 2006 Retrieved November 6 2006 Hart John amp Jamieson Bob August 8 1975 Headline 51st State NBC Evening News Retrieved November 6 2006 Pine Mountain Ski Jump Suicide Hill Hyde Charles K 1993 Historic Highway Bridges of Michigan Detroit Wayne State University Press pp 159 60 ISBN 978 0 8143 2448 6 Office of Federal Lands Highway December 18 2009 Forest Highways Federal Highway Administration Archived from the original on August 18 2010 Retrieved July 28 2010 Great Lakes Circle Tour Great Lakes Commission July 5 2005 Archived from the original on July 25 2010 Retrieved July 18 2010 Staff February 5 2010 Drive Home Our Heritage Heritage Routes Michigan Department of Transportation Archived from the original on March 14 2010 Retrieved May 7 2011 M 134 in UP Tapped as Pure Michigan s First Byway Detroit Free Press Associated Press October 14 2015 Archived from the original on August 19 2016 Retrieved October 15 2015 Sawyer Airport Sawyer Airport Retrieved July 18 2010 Transportation in the Upper Peninsula Robinson Ray 2002 Rockne of Notre Dame New York Oxford University Press p 70 ISBN 978 0 19 515792 5 Bernstein Jeremy 2007 Plutonium A History of the World s Most Dangerous Element Washington DC Joseph Henry Press p 74 ISBN 978 0 309 10296 4 Detroit News Archived from the original on July 10 2012 Further reading EditBinder David September 14 1995 Upper Peninsula Journal Yes They re Yoopers and Proud of It The New York Times Burt Williams A amp Hubbard Bela 1846 Reports on the Mineral Region of Lake Superior Buffalo L Danforth ISBN 978 0 665 51009 0 Bela Hubbard 113 pages Harrison Jim November 30 2013 Imprint My Upper Peninsula The New York Times Retrieved November 30 2013 Lankton Larry 2010 Hollowed Ground Copper Mining and Community Building on Lake Superior 1840s 1990s Detroit Wayne State University Press 376 pages Magnaghi Russell M amp Marsden Michael T eds 1997 A Sense of Place Michigan s Upper Peninsula Essays in Honor of William and Margery Vandament Northern Michigan University Press ISBN 978 0 918616 20 3 270 pages Magnaghi Russell M 2017 Upper Peninsula of Michigan A History Marquette Michigan 906 Heritage ISBN 978 1 387 01681 5 OCLC 993581790 Reddicliffe Steve July 27 2017 36 Hours in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan The New York Times Rydholm C Fred 1989 Superior Heartland A Backwoods History Vol I II Ann Arbor Michigan Braun Brumfield ISBN 978 0 963 99482 0 External links Edit Wikimedia Commons has media related to Upper Peninsula Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Upper Peninsula Upper Peninsula of Michigan Travel Western Upper Peninsula of Michigan Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Upper Peninsula of Michigan amp oldid 1152805379, wikipedia, wiki, book, 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