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Kangchenjunga

Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā and Khangchendzonga, is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in a section of the Himalayas, the Kangchenjunga Himal, which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River.[1][3] It lies in the border region between Nepal and Mangan district, Sikkim state of India, with three of the five peaks, namely Main, Central and South, directly on the border,[4] and the peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal's Taplejung District.[5]

Kangchenjunga
Nepali: कञ्चनजङ्घा, romanized: Kanchanjanghā
Kangchenjunga from Pelling, Sikkim, India
Highest point
Elevation8,586 m (28,169 ft)[1]
Ranked 3rd
Prominence3,922 m (12,867 ft)[2]
Ranked 29th
Isolation124 km (77 mi) 
Listing
Coordinates27°42′09″N 88°08′48″E / 27.70250°N 88.14667°E / 27.70250; 88.14667Coordinates: 27°42′09″N 88°08′48″E / 27.70250°N 88.14667°E / 27.70250; 88.14667[2]
Geography
Kangchenjunga
Location of Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga (Koshi Province)
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga (India)
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga (Nepal)
Location
Parent rangeHimalayas
Climbing
First ascent25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band on British Kangchenjunga expedition
(First winter ascent 11 January 1986 by Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki)
Easiest routeglacier/snow/ice climb

Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations and measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga was the third-highest mountain.[6]

The Kangchenjunga is a sacred mountain in Sikkim and was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition. They stopped just short of the true summit, keeping a promise given to Tashi Namgyal, the Chogyal of Sikkim, that the top of the mountain would remain inviolate.[7] The Indian side of the mountain is off-limits to climbers. In 2016, the adjoining Khangchendzonga National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Etymology

Kangchenjunga is the official spelling adopted by Douglas Freshfield, Alexander Mitchell Kellas and the Royal Geographical Society that gives the best indication of the Tibetan pronunciation. Freshfield referred to the spelling used by the Indian Government since the late 19th century.[3] Alternative spellings include Kanchenjunga, Khangchendzonga and Kangchendzönga.[8][9][10]

The brothers Hermann, Adolf and Robert Schlagintweit explained the local name 'Kanchinjínga' meaning “The five treasures of the high snow” as originating from the Tibetan word "gangs" pronounced [kaŋ] meaning snow, ice; "chen" pronounced [tɕen] meaning great; "mzod" meaning treasure; "lnga" meaning five.[11] Local Lhopo people believe that the treasures are hidden but reveal themselves to the devout when the world is in peril; the treasures comprise salt, gold, turquoise and precious stones, sacred scriptures, invincible armor or ammunition, grain and medicine.[12]

Protected areas

The Kangchenjunga landscape is a complex of three distinct ecoregions: the eastern Himalayan broad-leaved and coniferous forests, the Eastern Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows and the Terai-Duar savanna and grasslands.[13] The Kangchenjunga transboundary landscape is shared by Nepal, India, Bhutan and China, and comprises 14 protected areas with a total of 6,032 km2 (2,329 sq mi):[14]

These protected areas are habitats for many globally significant plant species such as rhododendrons and orchids and many endangered flagship species such as snow leopard (Panthera uncia), Asian black bear (Ursus thibetanus), red panda (Ailurus fulgens), white-bellied musk deer (Moschus leucogaster), blood pheasant (Ithaginis cruentus) and chestnut-breasted partridge (Arborophila mandellii).[14]

Geography

 
Panorama of the Kangchenjunga massif from Tiger Hill, Darjeeling

The Kangchenjunga Himal section of the Himalayas lies both in Nepal and India and encompasses 16 peaks over 7,000 m (23,000 ft). In the north, it is limited by the Lhonak Chu, Goma Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. The western limit runs from the Jongsang La down the Gingsang and Kangchenjunga glaciers and the rivers of Ghunsa and Tamur.[1] Kanchenjunga rises about 20 km (12 mi) south of the general alignment of the Great Himalayan range about 125 km (78 mi) east-southeast of Mount Everest as the crow flies. South of the southern face of Kanchenjunga runs the 3,000–3,500-metre-high (9,800–11,500 ft) Singalila Ridge that separates Sikkim from Nepal and northern West Bengal.[15]

Kangchenjunga and its satellite peaks form a huge mountain massif.[16] The massif's five highest peaks are listed in the following table.

Name of peak Height (m) Height (ft) Location Prominence (m) Prominence (ft) Nearest Higher Neighbor Location (political)
Kangchenjunga Main[2] 8,586 28,169 27°42′11″N 88°08′52″E / 27.70306°N 88.14778°E / 27.70306; 88.14778 3,922 12,867 Mount Everest – South Summit Mangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangchenjunga West (Yalung Kang)[17] 8,505 27,904 27°42′18″N 88°08′12″E / 27.70500°N 88.13667°E / 27.70500; 88.13667 135 443 Kangchenjunga Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangchenjunga Central[18] 8,482 27,828 27°41′46″N 88°09′04″E / 27.69611°N 88.15111°E / 27.69611; 88.15111 32 105 Kangchenjunga South Mangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangchenjunga South[19] 8,494 27,867 27°41′30″N 88°09′15″E / 27.69167°N 88.15417°E / 27.69167; 88.15417 119 390 Kangchenjunga Mangan district, Sikkim, India / Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
Kangbachen[20] 7,903 25,928 27°42′42″N 88°06′30″E / 27.71167°N 88.10833°E / 27.71167; 88.10833 103 337 Kangchenjunga West Taplejung, Koshi Province, Nepal
 
Kangchenjunga map by Garwood, 1903[3]
 
Southwest (Yalung) face of Kangchenjunga seen from Nepal

The main ridge of the massif runs from north-northeast to south-southwest and forms a watershed to several rivers.[16] Together with ridges running roughly from east to west they form a giant cross.[3] These ridges contain a host of peaks between 6,000 and 8,586 m (19,685 and 28,169 ft). The northern section includes Yalung Kang, Kangchenjunga Central and South, Kangbachen, Kirat Chuli and Gimmigela Chuli, and runs up to the Jongsang La. The eastern ridge in Sikkim includes Siniolchu. The southern section runs along the Nepal–Sikkim border and includes Kabru I to III.[1] This ridge extends southwards to the Singalila Ridge.[21] The western ridge culminates in the Kumbhakarna, also known as Jannu.[1]

Four main glaciers radiate from the peak, pointing roughly to the northeast, southeast, northwest and southwest. The Zemu glacier in the northeast and the Talung glacier in the southeast drain to the Teesta River; the Yalung glacier in the southwest and the Kangchen glacier in the northwest drain to the Arun and Kosi rivers.[22] The glaciers spread over the area above approximately 5,000 m (16,000 ft), and the glacialized area covers about 314 km2 (121 sq mi) in total.[23] There are 120 glaciers in the Kanchenjunga Himal, of which 17 are debris-covered. Between 1958 and 1992, more than half of 57 examined glaciers had retreated, possibly due to rising of air temperature.[24]

Kangchenjunga Main is the highest elevation of the Brahmaputra River basin, which forms part of the southeast Asian monsoon regime and is among the globally largest river basins.[25] Kangchenjunga is one of six peaks above 8,000 m (26,000 ft) located in the basin of the Kosi River, which is among the largest tributaries of the Ganges.[26] The Kangchenjunga massif forms also part of the Ganges Basin.[27]

Although it is the third highest peak in the world, Kangchenjunga is only ranked 29th by topographic prominence, a measure of a mountain's independent stature. The key col for Kangchenjunga lies at a height of 4,664 metres (15,302 ft), along the watershed boundary between Arun and Brahmaputra rivers in Tibet.[28] It is, however, the fourth-most-prominent peak in the Himalayas, after Everest, and the western and eastern anchors of the Himalaya, Nanga Parbat and Namcha Barwa, respectively.[29]

Climbing routes

 
Kanchenjunga-north from base camp in Nepal

There are four climbing routes to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga, three of which are in Nepal from the southwest, northwest, and northeast, and one from northeastern Sikkim in India. To date, the northeastern route from Sikkim has been successfully used only three times. The Indian government has banned expeditions to Kanchenjunga; therefore, this route has been closed since 2000.[30]

Climbing history

 
Painting of Kanchinjínga as seen from the Singalila Ridge by Hermann Schlagintweit, 1855[31]
 
Sunset on Kangchenjunga, 1905[32]
 
South face of Kangchenjunga seen from Goecha La, Sikkim at 4,940 m (16,210 ft)
 
Kangchenjunga seen from Darjeeling War Memorial
 
Kangchenjunga and surrounding peaks at sunset from ISS, December 2019

Early reconnaissances and attempts

  • Between April 1848 and February 1849, Joseph Dalton Hooker explored parts of northern Sikkim and eastern Nepal, mainly to collect plants and study the distribution of Himalayan flora. He was based in Darjeeling, and made repeated excursions in the river valleys and into the foothills of Kangchenjunga up to an altitude of 15,620 ft (4,760 m).[33]
  • In spring 1855, the German explorer Hermann Schlagintweit travelled to Darjeeling but was not allowed to proceed further north due to the Third Nepal–Tibet War. In May, he explored the Singalila Ridge up to the peak of Tonglo for a meteorological survey.[31]
  • In 1879, Sarat Chandra Das and Lama Ugyen-gyatso crossed into Tibet west of "Kanchanjinga" via eastern Nepal and the Tashilhunpo Monastery en route to Lhasa. They returned along the same route in 1881.[34]
  • In 1883, a party of William Woodman Graham together with two Swiss mountaineers climbed in the area of Kangchenjunga. They were the first who ascended Kabru within 30–40 ft (9.1–12.2 m) below the summit. They crossed the Kang La pass and climbed a peak of nearly 19,000 ft (5,800 m) from which they examined Jannu. They concluded it was too late in the year for an attempt and returned once again to Darjeeling.[35]
  • Between October 1885 and January 1886, Rinzin Namgyal surveyed the unexplored north and west sides of Kangchenjunga. He was the first native surveyor to map the circuit of Kangchenjunga and provided sketches of each side of the peak and the adjoining valleys. He also defined the frontiers of Nepal, Tibet and Sikkim in this area.[36]
  • In 1899, British mountaineer Douglas Freshfield set out with his party comprising the Italian photographer Vittorio Sella. They were the first mountaineers to examine the lower and upper ramparts, and the great western face of Kangchenjunga, rising from the Kangchenjunga Glacier.[3]
  • In 1905, a party headed by Aleister Crowley made the first attempt at climbing the mountain. Aleister Crowley had been part of the team attempting the 1902 ascent of K2. The team reached an estimated altitude of 6,500 m (21,300 ft) on the southwest side of the mountain before turning back. The exact height reached is somewhat unclear; Crowley stated that on 31 August, "We were certainly over 21,000 ft (6,400 m) and possibly over 22,000 ft (6,700 m)", when the team was forced to retreat to Camp 5 by the risk of avalanche. On 1 September, they evidently went further; some members of the team, Reymond, Pache and Salama, "got over the bad patch" that had forced them to return to Camp 5 the day before, and progressed "out of sight and hearing" before returning to Crowley and the men with packs, who could not cross the dangerous section unassisted with their burdens. It is not clear how far Reymond, Pache and Salama had ascended—but in summarizing, Crowley ventured "We had reached a height of approximately 25,000 ft (7,600 m)." Attempting a "mutinous" late-in-the-day descent from Camp 5 to Camp 3, climber Alexis Pache (who earlier that day had been one of three to ascend possibly higher than any before), and three local porters, were killed in an avalanche.[37] Despite the insistence of one of the men that "the demon of Kangchenjunga was propitiated with the sacrifice", Crowley decided the accident and its ramifications made it impossible to continue the expedition.[32]
  • In 1907, two Norwegians set about climbing Jongri via the Kabru glacier to the south, an approach apparently rejected by Graham's party. Progress was very slow, partly because of problems with supplies and porters, and presumably also lack of fitness and acclimatisation. However, from a high camp at about 22,600 ft (6,900 m) they were eventually able to reach a point 50 or 60 ft (15 or 18 m) below the summit before they were turned back by strong winds.[35]
  • In 1929, the German Paul Bauer led an expedition team that reached 7,400 m (24,300 ft) on the northeast spur before being turned back by a five-day storm.[38]
  • In May 1929, the American E. F. Farmer left Darjeeling with native porters, crossed the Kang La into Nepal and climbed up towards the Talung Saddle. When his porters refused to go any further, he climbed alone further upwards through drifting mists but did not return.[16]
  • In 1930, Günter Dyhrenfurth led an international expedition comprising the German Uli Wieland, Austrian Erwin Schneider and Englishman Frank Smythe who attempted to climb Kangchenjunga. They failed because of poor weather and snow conditions.[16]
  • In 1931, Paul Bauer led a second German expedition team who attempted the northeast spur before being turned back by bad weather, illnesses and deaths. The team, including Peter Aufschnaiter, retreated after climbing 300 m higher than the 1929 attempt.[38]
  • In 1954, John Kempe led a party comprising J. W. Tucker, S. R. Jackson, G. C. Lewis, T. H. Braham and medical officer D. S. Mathews. They explored the upper Yalung glacier with the intention to discover a practicable route to the great ice-shelf that runs across the southwest face of Kangchenjunga.[39] This reconnaissance led to the route used by the successful 1955 expedition.[40]

First ascent

 
A sign board on the last traversable road to Kangchenjunga
 
First ascent reunion of 1990– front (left to right): Neil Mather, John Angelo Jackson, Charles Evans and Joe Brown, and rear (left to right): Tony Streather, Norman Hardie, George Band and Professor John Clegg

In 1955, Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent on 25 May, followed by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather on 26 May. The full team also included John Clegg (team doctor), Charles Evans (team leader), John Angelo Jackson, Neil Mather and Tom Mackinnon.[8] The ascent proved that Aleister Crowley's 1905 route (also investigated by the 1954 reconnaissance) was viable. The route starts on the Yalung Glacier to the southwest of the peak, and climbs the Yalung Face, which is 3,000 metres (10,000 ft) high. The main feature of this face is the "Great Shelf", a large sloping plateau at around 7,500 metres (24,600 ft), covered by a hanging glacier. The route is almost entirely on snow, glacier and one icefall; the summit ridge itself can involve a small amount of travel on rock. The first ascent expedition made six camps above their base camp, two below the Shelf, two on it, and two above it. They started on 18 April, and everyone was back to base camp by 28 May.[41] Other members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Mackinnon.[42]

Other notable ascents

Kangchenjunga 3D animation
  • 1973 Yutaka Ageta and Takeo Matsuda of the Japanese expedition summited Kangchenjunga West, also called Yalung Kang, by climbing the southwestern ridge. Matsuda never returned to camp and his body was never found. The expedition concluded that he had fallen during descent when he was separated from Ageta.[43]
  • 1977 The second ascent of Kangchenjunga, by an Indian Army team led by Colonel Narendra Kumar. They completed the northeast spur, the difficult ridge that defeated German expeditions in 1929 and 1931.[44]
  • 1978 Polish teams made the first successful ascents of the summits Kangchenjunga South (Wojciech Wróż and Eugeniusz Chrobak, 19 May) and Kangchenjunga Central (Wojciech Brański, Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich, Kazimierz Olech, 22 May).[45]
  • 1979 The third ascent, on 16 May, and the first without oxygen, by Doug Scott, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker, establishing a new route on the North Ridge.[46]
  • 1992 Carlos Carsolio made the only summit that year. It was in a solo climb without supplementary oxygen.[47]
  • 1995 Benoît Chamoux, Pierre Royer and their Sherpa guide Riku disappeared on 6 October near the summit.[48]
  • 1998 Ginette Harrison was the first woman to climb Kangchenjunga's North Face.[49]
  • 2009 Edurne Pasaban, a Spanish mountaineer, reached the summit, becoming the first woman to summit twelve eight-thousanders.[50]
  • In May 2009, Kinga Baranowska was the first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga.[51]
  • In 2011, Tunç Fındık became the first Turkish man to reach the peak of Kangchenjunga, his seventh eight thousander, with Swiss partner Guntis Brandts via the British 1955 SW Face route.[52][53]
  • In 2011, Indian mountaineers Basanta Singha Roy and Debasish Biswas of Mountaineers' Association of Krishnanagar (MAK), West Bengal, India, successfully scaled Kangchenjunga Main on 20 May 2011.[54]
  • In May 2013, five climbers including Hungarian Zsolt Erőss and Péter Kiss reached the summit, but disappeared during the descent.[55]
  • In May 2014, Bulgarian Boyan Petrov reached the peak without the use of supplemental oxygen. Petrov is a diabetic.[56]
  • In May 2014, Chhanda Gayen became the first Indian woman to summit. She was killed by an avalanche on the descent.[57]
  • In May 2022, Indian climber Narayanan Iyer died during a summit push on the mountain.[58]

Despite improved climbing gear the fatality rate of climbers attempting to summit Kanchenjunga is high. Since the 1990s, more than 20% of people died while climbing Kanchenjunga's main peak.[59]

Tourism

 
Kanchenjunga from Tiger Hill at dawn
 
Kanchenjunga as seen from Gangtok, Sikkim

Because of its remote location in Nepal and the difficulty involved in accessing it from India, the Kangchenjunga region is not much explored by trekkers. It has, therefore, retained much of its pristine beauty. In Sikkim too, trekking into the Kangchenjunga region has just recently been permitted. The Goecha La trek is gaining popularity amongst tourists. It goes to the Goecha La Pass, located right in front of the huge southeast face of Kangchenjunga. Another trek to Green Lake Basin has recently[when?] been opened for trekking. This trek goes to the Northeast side of Kangchenjunga along the famous Zemu Glacier. The film Singalila in the Himalaya is a journey around Kangchenjunga.

 
Kangchenjunga sunrise from Jalpaiguri

In myth

 
Five Treasures of Snow

The area around Kangchenjunga is said to be home to a mountain deity, called Dzö-nga[60] or "Kangchenjunga Demon", a type of yeti or rakshasa. A British geological expedition in 1925 spotted a bipedal creature which they asked the locals about, who referred to it as the "Kangchenjunga Demon".[61]

For generations, there have been legends recounted by the inhabitants of the areas surrounding Kanchenjunga, both in Sikkim and in Nepal, that there is a valley of immortality hidden on its slopes. These stories are well known to both the original inhabitants of the area, the Lepcha people and Limbu people, and those of the Tibetan Buddhist cultural tradition. In Tibetan, this valley is known as Beyul Demoshong. In 1962, a Tibetan Lama by the name of Tulshuk Lingpa led over 300 followers into the high snow slopes of Kanchenjunga, to ‘open the way’ to Beyul Demoshong. The story of this expedition is recounted in the 2011 book A Step Away from Paradise.[62]

 
Kangchenjunga seen from Tetulia, Panchagarh, Northern Bangladesh

In literature

 
East face of Kangchenjunga, from near the Zemu Glacier, Sikkim
  • In the Swallows and Amazons series of books by Arthur Ransome, a high mountain (unnamed in the books) is given the name "Kanchenjunga" by the children when they climb it in 1931.
  • In The Epic of Mount Everest, first published in 1926, Sir Francis Younghusband: " For natural beauty Darjiling (Darjeeling) is surely unsurpassed in the world. From all countries travellers come there to see the famous view of Kangchenjunga, 28,150 feet (8,580 m) in height, and only 40 miles (64 km) distant. Darjiling (Darjeeling) itself is 7,000 feet (2,100 m) above sea-level and is set in a forest of oaks, magnolia, rhododendrons, laurels and sycamores. And through these forests, the observer looks down the steep mountain-sides to the Rangeet River only 1,000 feet (300 m) above sea-level, and then up and up through tier after tier of forest-clad ranges, each bathed in a haze of deeper and deeper purple, till the line of snow is reached; and then still up to the summit of Kangchenjunga, now so pure and ethereal we can scarcely believe it is part of the solid earth on which we stand; and so high it seems part of the very sky itself."
  • In 1999, official James Bond author Raymond Benson published High Time to Kill. In this story, a microdot containing a secret formula for aviation technology is stolen by a society called the Union. During their escape, their plane crashes on the slopes of Kangchenjunga. James Bond becomes part of a climbing expedition in order to retrieve the formula.
  • The Inheritance of Loss by Kiran Desai, which won the 2006 Man Booker Prize, is set partly in Kalimpong, a hill station situated near Kangchenjunga.
  • In Legend of the Galactic Heroes by Yoshiki Tanaka, which won the Seiun Award for "Best Novel of the Year" in 1988 and was adapted into an anime series by Kitty Films, the capital and holiest temple of the Terraist Cult is on Earth beneath the rubble of Kangchenjunga.
  • Michelle Paver's 2016 ghost story Thin Air concerns a fictional expedition to climb Kangchenjunga in 1935, and an earlier (also fictional) expedition in 1906.
  • The book Round Kangchenjunga – A Narrative of Mountain Travel and Exploration by Douglas Freshfield gives a complete account of his travel around Kangchenjunga.
  • Susan Jagannath's book Chasing Himalayan Dreams: A trek in the shadow of Kanchenjunga and Everest details her 61km, 6-day trek up and around Kangchenjunga.

Further reading

 
View of Kangchenjunga as seen from Darjeeling
 
North face of Kangchenjunga from Pang Pema, Nepal
  • Joseph Dalton Hooker 1855. Himalayan Journals. Assistant-director of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew.
  • Laurence Waddell 1899. Among The Himalayas. Travels in Sikkim. Book includes the exploration of the south of Kangchenjunga.
  • Paul Bauer 1937. Himalayan Campaign. Blackwell is the story of Bauer's two attempts in 1929 and 1931, republished as Kangchenjunga Challenge (William Kimber, 1955).
  • Paul Bauer "The German Attack on Kangchenjunga", The Himalayan Journal, 1930 Vol. II.
  • Lieut. Col. H.W. Tobin "Exploration and Climbing in The Sikkim Himalaya", The Himalayan Journal, April 1930 Vol. II. Provides the early exploration and climbing attempts on Kangchenjunga.
  • Prof. G. O. Dyhrenfurth "The International Himalayan Expedition, 1930", The Himalayan Journal, April 1931, Vol. III. Details their attempt on Kangchenjunga.
  • H.W. Tilman The ascent of Nanda Devi, 7 June 1937, Cambridge University Press. Relates the story of their intention to climb Kangchenjunga.
  • Irving, R. L. G. 1940. Ten Great Mountains. London, J. M. Dent & Sons
  • John Angelo Jackson 1955. More than Mountains Book containing data on the 1954 Kangchenjunga reconnaissance. Jackson was also a team member of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955, also relates the Daily Mail "Abominable Snowman" or Yeti Expedition, when the first trek from Everest to Kangchenjunga was accomplished * . Relevant pages 97 onwards with two detailed maps.
  • Charles Evans Kangchenjunga The Untrodden Peak, Hodder & Stoughton, Leader of the 1955 expedition. Principal of the University College of North Wales, Bangor. Foreword by His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, K.G.
  • Joe Brown, The Hard Years, tells his version of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955.
  • Colonel Narinder Kumar 1978. Kangchenjunga: First ascent from the north-east spur. Vision books. Includes the second ever ascent of Kangchenjunga and the first from the northeast spur on the Indian side of the mountain. See also Himalayan Journal Vol. 36 and 50th Anniversary Edition
  • Peter Boardman 1982. Sacred Summits: A Climber's Year. Includes the 1979 ascent of Kangchenjunga with Joe Tasker and Doug Scott. Also in The Himalayan Journal Vol 36.
  • John Angelo Jackson 2005. Adventure Travels in the Himalaya. Indus Publishing. Recounts in more detail the first ascent of Kangchenjunga.
  • Simon Pierse 2005. Kangchenjunga: Imaging a Himalayan Mountain. University of Wales, School of Art Press, ISBN 978-1-899095-22-3. An anthology of word and image published to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the first ascents of Kangchenjunga. Well illustrated with reproductions of paintings, prints and photographs describing the climbing history and cultural significance of the mountain. Preface by George Band.

The above Himalayan Journal references were all also reproduced in the "50th Anniversary of the First Ascent of Kangchenjunga" The Himalayan Club, Kolkata Section 2005.

  • Pema Wangchuk and Mita Zulca Khangchendzonga: Sacred Summit. The book details the stories and legends celebrated by the communities living in the Kangchenjunga's shadow, goes over the exploits of the early explorers and mountaineers. Chapters cover what Khangchendzonga means to Buddhism, mapping, early explorers, Alexander Kellas, early expeditions, the first ascent in 1955, the Indian Army ascent (1977), the second British ascent (1979), women climbers, the Tiger climbers, the yeti and more. Profusely illustrated with many period photos.
  • The Geographer at High Altitudes, Climbing on the Himalaya and other Mountain Ranges, By J. Norman Collie, F.R.S. Edinburgh: David Douglas. 1902.
  • The Glaciers of Kangchenjunga Douglas Freshfield The Geographical Journal, Vol. 19, No. 4 Apr 1902, pp. 453–472
  • C. K. Howard-Bury. 1922. "The Mount Everest Expedition". The Geographical Journal 59 (2): 81–99.
  • "General Bruce's Illness a Serious handicap" The Times, (British) World Copyright, Lt. R.F.Norton, 19 April 1924. Expedition in the Kangchenjunga area.
  • Account of a Photographic Expedition to the Southern Glaciers of Kangchenjunga in the Sikkim Himalaya, N. A. Tombazi, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 67, No. 1 Jan 1926, pp. 74–76
  • An Adventure to Kangchenjunga, Hugh Boustead, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 69, No. 4 (Apr. 1927), pp. 344–350
  • The Times Literary Supplement, Thursday, 11 December 1930. "The Kangchenjunga Adventure", F.S. Smythe.
  • Im Kampf um den Himalaja, Paul Bauer. The Kangchenjunga Adventure, F. S. Smythe, Himalaya: Unsere Expedition, G. O. Dyhrenfurth. 1930
  • The Times Literary Supplement, Thursday, 9 April 1931. "Kangchenjunga", Paul Bauer.
  • The Imperial Gazetteer of India. Vol. XXVI, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 79, No. 1 Jan 1932, pp. 53–56
  • Recent Heroes of Modern Adventure, T. C. Bridges; H. Hessell Tiltman, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 81, No. 6 Jun 1933, p. 568
  • Paul Bauer 1931. Um Den Kantsch: der zweite deutsche Angriff auf den Kangchendzönga, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 81, No. 4 Apr 1933, pp. 362–363
  • Paul Bauer; Sumner Austin 1938. Himalayan Campaign: The German Attack on Kangchenjunga, The Geographical Journal, Vol. 91, No. 5: 478
  • Charles Evans 1956. "Kangchenjunga: The Untrodden Peak". The Times Literary Supplement.
  • Lou Whittaker, Memoirs of a Mountain guide, 1994

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d e Carter, H. A. (1985). "Classification of the Himalaya" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. 27 (59): 109–141.
  2. ^ a b c d Jurgalski, E.; de Ferranti, J.; Maizlish, A. (2000–2005). "High Asia II – Himalaya of Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim and adjoining region of Tibet". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 16 May 2019.
  3. ^ a b c d e Freshfield, D. W. (1903). Round Kangchenjunga: a narrative of mountain travel and exploration. London: Edward Arnold.
  4. ^ Gurung, H. & Shrestha, R. K. (1994). Nepal Himalaya Inventory. Kathmandu: Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation.
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External links

  • Kangchenjunga page on Himalaya-Info.org (German)
  • Kangchenjunga page on Summitpost.org
  • Kangchenjunga History for a more detailed up to date account of the mountain's history and ascents.
  • "Kāngchenjunga, India/Nepal" on Peakbagger
  • . Peakware.com. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. – photos
  • Glacier Research Image Project presents photos tracking 24 years of changes in glaciers at Kangchenjunga.
  • Mtxplore Mountain Statistics Statistics of Kangchenjunga.

kangchenjunga, other, uses, disambiguation, also, spelled, kanchenjunga, kanchanjanghā, khangchendzonga, third, highest, mountain, world, summit, lies, section, himalayas, himal, which, bounded, west, tamur, river, north, lhonak, river, jongsang, east, teesta,. For other uses see Kangchenjunga disambiguation Kangchenjunga also spelled Kanchenjunga Kanchanjangha and Khangchendzonga is the third highest mountain in the world Its summit lies at 8 586 m 28 169 ft in a section of the Himalayas the Kangchenjunga Himal which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La and in the east by the Teesta River 1 3 It lies in the border region between Nepal and Mangan district Sikkim state of India with three of the five peaks namely Main Central and South directly on the border 4 and the peaks West and Kangbachen in Nepal s Taplejung District 5 KangchenjungaNepali कञ चनजङ घ romanized KanchanjanghaKangchenjunga from Pelling Sikkim IndiaHighest pointElevation8 586 m 28 169 ft 1 Ranked 3rdProminence3 922 m 12 867 ft 2 Ranked 29thIsolation124 km 77 mi ListingEight thousanderSeven Third SummitsList of mountains in IndiaList of mountains in NepalCountry high point India Ultra prominent peakCoordinates27 42 09 N 88 08 48 E 27 70250 N 88 14667 E 27 70250 88 14667 Coordinates 27 42 09 N 88 08 48 E 27 70250 N 88 14667 E 27 70250 88 14667 2 GeographyKangchenjungaLocation of KangchenjungaShow map of SikkimKangchenjungaKangchenjunga Koshi Province Show map of Koshi ProvinceKangchenjungaKangchenjunga India Show map of IndiaKangchenjungaKangchenjunga Nepal Show map of NepalLocationTaplejung District NepalMangan district Sikkim India 2 Parent rangeHimalayasClimbingFirst ascent25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band on British Kangchenjunga expedition First winter ascent 11 January 1986 by Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki Easiest routeglacier snow ice climbUntil 1852 Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world but calculations and measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that Mount Everest known as Peak XV at the time is actually higher After allowing for further verification of all calculations it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga was the third highest mountain 6 The Kangchenjunga is a sacred mountain in Sikkim and was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band who were part of the 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition They stopped just short of the true summit keeping a promise given to Tashi Namgyal the Chogyal of Sikkim that the top of the mountain would remain inviolate 7 The Indian side of the mountain is off limits to climbers In 2016 the adjoining Khangchendzonga National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site Contents 1 Etymology 2 Protected areas 3 Geography 4 Climbing routes 5 Climbing history 5 1 Early reconnaissances and attempts 5 2 First ascent 5 3 Other notable ascents 6 Tourism 7 In myth 8 In literature 9 Further reading 10 See also 11 References 12 External linksEtymology EditKangchenjunga is the official spelling adopted by Douglas Freshfield Alexander Mitchell Kellas and the Royal Geographical Society that gives the best indication of the Tibetan pronunciation Freshfield referred to the spelling used by the Indian Government since the late 19th century 3 Alternative spellings include Kanchenjunga Khangchendzonga and Kangchendzonga 8 9 10 The brothers Hermann Adolf and Robert Schlagintweit explained the local name Kanchinjinga meaning The five treasures of the high snow as originating from the Tibetan word gangs pronounced kaŋ meaning snow ice chen pronounced tɕen meaning great mzod meaning treasure lnga meaning five 11 Local Lhopo people believe that the treasures are hidden but reveal themselves to the devout when the world is in peril the treasures comprise salt gold turquoise and precious stones sacred scriptures invincible armor or ammunition grain and medicine 12 Protected areas EditThe Kangchenjunga landscape is a complex of three distinct ecoregions the eastern Himalayan broad leaved and coniferous forests the Eastern Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows and the Terai Duar savanna and grasslands 13 The Kangchenjunga transboundary landscape is shared by Nepal India Bhutan and China and comprises 14 protected areas with a total of 6 032 km2 2 329 sq mi 14 Nepal Kanchenjunga Conservation Area Sikkim India Khangchendzonga National Park Varsey Rhododendron Sanctuary Fambong Lho Wildlife Sanctuary Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary Maenam Wildlife Sanctuary Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary and Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary Darjeeling India Jore Pokhri Wildlife Sanctuary Singalila National Park Senchal Wildlife Sanctuary Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary and Neora Valley National Park Bhutan Torsa Strict Nature ReserveThese protected areas are habitats for many globally significant plant species such as rhododendrons and orchids and many endangered flagship species such as snow leopard Panthera uncia Asian black bear Ursus thibetanus red panda Ailurus fulgens white bellied musk deer Moschus leucogaster blood pheasant Ithaginis cruentus and chestnut breasted partridge Arborophila mandellii 14 Geography Edit Panorama of the Kangchenjunga massif from Tiger Hill Darjeeling The Kangchenjunga Himal section of the Himalayas lies both in Nepal and India and encompasses 16 peaks over 7 000 m 23 000 ft In the north it is limited by the Lhonak Chu Goma Chu and Jongsang La and in the east by the Teesta River The western limit runs from the Jongsang La down the Gingsang and Kangchenjunga glaciers and the rivers of Ghunsa and Tamur 1 Kanchenjunga rises about 20 km 12 mi south of the general alignment of the Great Himalayan range about 125 km 78 mi east southeast of Mount Everest as the crow flies South of the southern face of Kanchenjunga runs the 3 000 3 500 metre high 9 800 11 500 ft Singalila Ridge that separates Sikkim from Nepal and northern West Bengal 15 Kangchenjunga and its satellite peaks form a huge mountain massif 16 The massif s five highest peaks are listed in the following table Name of peak Height m Height ft Location Prominence m Prominence ft Nearest Higher Neighbor Location political Kangchenjunga Main 2 8 586 28 169 27 42 11 N 88 08 52 E 27 70306 N 88 14778 E 27 70306 88 14778 3 922 12 867 Mount Everest South Summit Mangan district Sikkim India Taplejung Koshi Province NepalKangchenjunga West Yalung Kang 17 8 505 27 904 27 42 18 N 88 08 12 E 27 70500 N 88 13667 E 27 70500 88 13667 135 443 Kangchenjunga Taplejung Koshi Province NepalKangchenjunga Central 18 8 482 27 828 27 41 46 N 88 09 04 E 27 69611 N 88 15111 E 27 69611 88 15111 32 105 Kangchenjunga South Mangan district Sikkim India Taplejung Koshi Province NepalKangchenjunga South 19 8 494 27 867 27 41 30 N 88 09 15 E 27 69167 N 88 15417 E 27 69167 88 15417 119 390 Kangchenjunga Mangan district Sikkim India Taplejung Koshi Province NepalKangbachen 20 7 903 25 928 27 42 42 N 88 06 30 E 27 71167 N 88 10833 E 27 71167 88 10833 103 337 Kangchenjunga West Taplejung Koshi Province Nepal Kangchenjunga map by Garwood 1903 3 Southwest Yalung face of Kangchenjunga seen from Nepal The main ridge of the massif runs from north northeast to south southwest and forms a watershed to several rivers 16 Together with ridges running roughly from east to west they form a giant cross 3 These ridges contain a host of peaks between 6 000 and 8 586 m 19 685 and 28 169 ft The northern section includes Yalung Kang Kangchenjunga Central and South Kangbachen Kirat Chuli and Gimmigela Chuli and runs up to the Jongsang La The eastern ridge in Sikkim includes Siniolchu The southern section runs along the Nepal Sikkim border and includes Kabru I to III 1 This ridge extends southwards to the Singalila Ridge 21 The western ridge culminates in the Kumbhakarna also known as Jannu 1 Four main glaciers radiate from the peak pointing roughly to the northeast southeast northwest and southwest The Zemu glacier in the northeast and the Talung glacier in the southeast drain to the Teesta River the Yalung glacier in the southwest and the Kangchen glacier in the northwest drain to the Arun and Kosi rivers 22 The glaciers spread over the area above approximately 5 000 m 16 000 ft and the glacialized area covers about 314 km2 121 sq mi in total 23 There are 120 glaciers in the Kanchenjunga Himal of which 17 are debris covered Between 1958 and 1992 more than half of 57 examined glaciers had retreated possibly due to rising of air temperature 24 Kangchenjunga Main is the highest elevation of the Brahmaputra River basin which forms part of the southeast Asian monsoon regime and is among the globally largest river basins 25 Kangchenjunga is one of six peaks above 8 000 m 26 000 ft located in the basin of the Kosi River which is among the largest tributaries of the Ganges 26 The Kangchenjunga massif forms also part of the Ganges Basin 27 Although it is the third highest peak in the world Kangchenjunga is only ranked 29th by topographic prominence a measure of a mountain s independent stature The key col for Kangchenjunga lies at a height of 4 664 metres 15 302 ft along the watershed boundary between Arun and Brahmaputra rivers in Tibet 28 It is however the fourth most prominent peak in the Himalayas after Everest and the western and eastern anchors of the Himalaya Nanga Parbat and Namcha Barwa respectively 29 Climbing routes Edit Kanchenjunga north from base camp in Nepal There are four climbing routes to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga three of which are in Nepal from the southwest northwest and northeast and one from northeastern Sikkim in India To date the northeastern route from Sikkim has been successfully used only three times The Indian government has banned expeditions to Kanchenjunga therefore this route has been closed since 2000 30 Climbing history Edit Painting of Kanchinjinga as seen from the Singalila Ridge by Hermann Schlagintweit 1855 31 Sunset on Kangchenjunga 1905 32 South face of Kangchenjunga seen from Goecha La Sikkim at 4 940 m 16 210 ft Kangchenjunga seen from Darjeeling War Memorial Kangchenjunga and surrounding peaks at sunset from ISS December 2019 Early reconnaissances and attempts Edit Between April 1848 and February 1849 Joseph Dalton Hooker explored parts of northern Sikkim and eastern Nepal mainly to collect plants and study the distribution of Himalayan flora He was based in Darjeeling and made repeated excursions in the river valleys and into the foothills of Kangchenjunga up to an altitude of 15 620 ft 4 760 m 33 In spring 1855 the German explorer Hermann Schlagintweit travelled to Darjeeling but was not allowed to proceed further north due to the Third Nepal Tibet War In May he explored the Singalila Ridge up to the peak of Tonglo for a meteorological survey 31 In 1879 Sarat Chandra Das and Lama Ugyen gyatso crossed into Tibet west of Kanchanjinga via eastern Nepal and the Tashilhunpo Monastery en route to Lhasa They returned along the same route in 1881 34 In 1883 a party of William Woodman Graham together with two Swiss mountaineers climbed in the area of Kangchenjunga They were the first who ascended Kabru within 30 40 ft 9 1 12 2 m below the summit They crossed the Kang La pass and climbed a peak of nearly 19 000 ft 5 800 m from which they examined Jannu They concluded it was too late in the year for an attempt and returned once again to Darjeeling 35 Between October 1885 and January 1886 Rinzin Namgyal surveyed the unexplored north and west sides of Kangchenjunga He was the first native surveyor to map the circuit of Kangchenjunga and provided sketches of each side of the peak and the adjoining valleys He also defined the frontiers of Nepal Tibet and Sikkim in this area 36 In 1899 British mountaineer Douglas Freshfield set out with his party comprising the Italian photographer Vittorio Sella They were the first mountaineers to examine the lower and upper ramparts and the great western face of Kangchenjunga rising from the Kangchenjunga Glacier 3 In 1905 a party headed by Aleister Crowley made the first attempt at climbing the mountain Aleister Crowley had been part of the team attempting the 1902 ascent of K2 The team reached an estimated altitude of 6 500 m 21 300 ft on the southwest side of the mountain before turning back The exact height reached is somewhat unclear Crowley stated that on 31 August We were certainly over 21 000 ft 6 400 m and possibly over 22 000 ft 6 700 m when the team was forced to retreat to Camp 5 by the risk of avalanche On 1 September they evidently went further some members of the team Reymond Pache and Salama got over the bad patch that had forced them to return to Camp 5 the day before and progressed out of sight and hearing before returning to Crowley and the men with packs who could not cross the dangerous section unassisted with their burdens It is not clear how far Reymond Pache and Salama had ascended but in summarizing Crowley ventured We had reached a height of approximately 25 000 ft 7 600 m Attempting a mutinous late in the day descent from Camp 5 to Camp 3 climber Alexis Pache who earlier that day had been one of three to ascend possibly higher than any before and three local porters were killed in an avalanche 37 Despite the insistence of one of the men that the demon of Kangchenjunga was propitiated with the sacrifice Crowley decided the accident and its ramifications made it impossible to continue the expedition 32 In 1907 two Norwegians set about climbing Jongri via the Kabru glacier to the south an approach apparently rejected by Graham s party Progress was very slow partly because of problems with supplies and porters and presumably also lack of fitness and acclimatisation However from a high camp at about 22 600 ft 6 900 m they were eventually able to reach a point 50 or 60 ft 15 or 18 m below the summit before they were turned back by strong winds 35 In 1929 the German Paul Bauer led an expedition team that reached 7 400 m 24 300 ft on the northeast spur before being turned back by a five day storm 38 In May 1929 the American E F Farmer left Darjeeling with native porters crossed the Kang La into Nepal and climbed up towards the Talung Saddle When his porters refused to go any further he climbed alone further upwards through drifting mists but did not return 16 In 1930 Gunter Dyhrenfurth led an international expedition comprising the German Uli Wieland Austrian Erwin Schneider and Englishman Frank Smythe who attempted to climb Kangchenjunga They failed because of poor weather and snow conditions 16 In 1931 Paul Bauer led a second German expedition team who attempted the northeast spur before being turned back by bad weather illnesses and deaths The team including Peter Aufschnaiter retreated after climbing 300 m higher than the 1929 attempt 38 In 1954 John Kempe led a party comprising J W Tucker S R Jackson G C Lewis T H Braham and medical officer D S Mathews They explored the upper Yalung glacier with the intention to discover a practicable route to the great ice shelf that runs across the southwest face of Kangchenjunga 39 This reconnaissance led to the route used by the successful 1955 expedition 40 First ascent Edit Main article 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition A sign board on the last traversable road to Kangchenjunga First ascent reunion of 1990 front left to right Neil Mather John Angelo Jackson Charles Evans and Joe Brown and rear left to right Tony Streather Norman Hardie George Band and Professor John Clegg In 1955 Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent on 25 May followed by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather on 26 May The full team also included John Clegg team doctor Charles Evans team leader John Angelo Jackson Neil Mather and Tom Mackinnon 8 The ascent proved that Aleister Crowley s 1905 route also investigated by the 1954 reconnaissance was viable The route starts on the Yalung Glacier to the southwest of the peak and climbs the Yalung Face which is 3 000 metres 10 000 ft high The main feature of this face is the Great Shelf a large sloping plateau at around 7 500 metres 24 600 ft covered by a hanging glacier The route is almost entirely on snow glacier and one icefall the summit ridge itself can involve a small amount of travel on rock The first ascent expedition made six camps above their base camp two below the Shelf two on it and two above it They started on 18 April and everyone was back to base camp by 28 May 41 Other members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Mackinnon 42 Other notable ascents Edit source source source source Kangchenjunga 3D animation 1973 Yutaka Ageta and Takeo Matsuda of the Japanese expedition summited Kangchenjunga West also called Yalung Kang by climbing the southwestern ridge Matsuda never returned to camp and his body was never found The expedition concluded that he had fallen during descent when he was separated from Ageta 43 1977 The second ascent of Kangchenjunga by an Indian Army team led by Colonel Narendra Kumar They completed the northeast spur the difficult ridge that defeated German expeditions in 1929 and 1931 44 1978 Polish teams made the first successful ascents of the summits Kangchenjunga South Wojciech Wroz and Eugeniusz Chrobak 19 May and Kangchenjunga Central Wojciech Branski Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich Kazimierz Olech 22 May 45 1979 The third ascent on 16 May and the first without oxygen by Doug Scott Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker establishing a new route on the North Ridge 46 1992 Carlos Carsolio made the only summit that year It was in a solo climb without supplementary oxygen 47 1995 Benoit Chamoux Pierre Royer and their Sherpa guide Riku disappeared on 6 October near the summit 48 1998 Ginette Harrison was the first woman to climb Kangchenjunga s North Face 49 2009 Edurne Pasaban a Spanish mountaineer reached the summit becoming the first woman to summit twelve eight thousanders 50 In May 2009 Kinga Baranowska was the first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga 51 In 2011 Tunc Findik became the first Turkish man to reach the peak of Kangchenjunga his seventh eight thousander with Swiss partner Guntis Brandts via the British 1955 SW Face route 52 53 In 2011 Indian mountaineers Basanta Singha Roy and Debasish Biswas of Mountaineers Association of Krishnanagar MAK West Bengal India successfully scaled Kangchenjunga Main on 20 May 2011 54 In May 2013 five climbers including Hungarian Zsolt Eross and Peter Kiss reached the summit but disappeared during the descent 55 In May 2014 Bulgarian Boyan Petrov reached the peak without the use of supplemental oxygen Petrov is a diabetic 56 In May 2014 Chhanda Gayen became the first Indian woman to summit She was killed by an avalanche on the descent 57 In May 2022 Indian climber Narayanan Iyer died during a summit push on the mountain 58 Despite improved climbing gear the fatality rate of climbers attempting to summit Kanchenjunga is high Since the 1990s more than 20 of people died while climbing Kanchenjunga s main peak 59 Tourism EditSee also Tourism in North East India Kanchenjunga from Tiger Hill at dawn Kanchenjunga as seen from Gangtok Sikkim Because of its remote location in Nepal and the difficulty involved in accessing it from India the Kangchenjunga region is not much explored by trekkers It has therefore retained much of its pristine beauty In Sikkim too trekking into the Kangchenjunga region has just recently been permitted The Goecha La trek is gaining popularity amongst tourists It goes to the Goecha La Pass located right in front of the huge southeast face of Kangchenjunga Another trek to Green Lake Basin has recently when been opened for trekking This trek goes to the Northeast side of Kangchenjunga along the famous Zemu Glacier The film Singalila in the Himalaya is a journey around Kangchenjunga Kangchenjunga sunrise from JalpaiguriIn myth Edit Five Treasures of Snow The area around Kangchenjunga is said to be home to a mountain deity called Dzo nga 60 or Kangchenjunga Demon a type of yeti or rakshasa A British geological expedition in 1925 spotted a bipedal creature which they asked the locals about who referred to it as the Kangchenjunga Demon 61 For generations there have been legends recounted by the inhabitants of the areas surrounding Kanchenjunga both in Sikkim and in Nepal that there is a valley of immortality hidden on its slopes These stories are well known to both the original inhabitants of the area the Lepcha people and Limbu people and those of the Tibetan Buddhist cultural tradition In Tibetan this valley is known as Beyul Demoshong In 1962 a Tibetan Lama by the name of Tulshuk Lingpa led over 300 followers into the high snow slopes of Kanchenjunga to open the way to Beyul Demoshong The story of this expedition is recounted in the 2011 book A Step Away from Paradise 62 Kangchenjunga seen from Tetulia Panchagarh Northern BangladeshIn literature Edit East face of Kangchenjunga from near the Zemu Glacier Sikkim In the Swallows and Amazons series of books by Arthur Ransome a high mountain unnamed in the books is given the name Kanchenjunga by the children when they climb it in 1931 In The Epic of Mount Everest first published in 1926 Sir Francis Younghusband For natural beauty Darjiling Darjeeling is surely unsurpassed in the world From all countries travellers come there to see the famous view of Kangchenjunga 28 150 feet 8 580 m in height and only 40 miles 64 km distant Darjiling Darjeeling itself is 7 000 feet 2 100 m above sea level and is set in a forest of oaks magnolia rhododendrons laurels and sycamores And through these forests the observer looks down the steep mountain sides to the Rangeet River only 1 000 feet 300 m above sea level and then up and up through tier after tier of forest clad ranges each bathed in a haze of deeper and deeper purple till the line of snow is reached and then still up to the summit of Kangchenjunga now so pure and ethereal we can scarcely believe it is part of the solid earth on which we stand and so high it seems part of the very sky itself In 1999 official James Bond author Raymond Benson published High Time to Kill In this story a microdot containing a secret formula for aviation technology is stolen by a society called the Union During their escape their plane crashes on the slopes of Kangchenjunga James Bond becomes part of a climbing expedition in order to retrieve the formula The Inheritance of Loss by Kiran Desai which won the 2006 Man Booker Prize is set partly in Kalimpong a hill station situated near Kangchenjunga In Legend of the Galactic Heroes by Yoshiki Tanaka which won the Seiun Award for Best Novel of the Year in 1988 and was adapted into an anime series by Kitty Films the capital and holiest temple of the Terraist Cult is on Earth beneath the rubble of Kangchenjunga Michelle Paver s 2016 ghost story Thin Air concerns a fictional expedition to climb Kangchenjunga in 1935 and an earlier also fictional expedition in 1906 The book Round Kangchenjunga A Narrative of Mountain Travel and Exploration by Douglas Freshfield gives a complete account of his travel around Kangchenjunga Susan Jagannath s book Chasing Himalayan Dreams A trek in the shadow of Kanchenjunga and Everest details her 61km 6 day trek up and around Kangchenjunga Further reading Edit View of Kangchenjunga as seen from Darjeeling North face of Kangchenjunga from Pang Pema Nepal Joseph Dalton Hooker 1855 Himalayan Journals Assistant director of the Royal Botanic Gardens Kew Laurence Waddell 1899 Among The Himalayas Travels in Sikkim Book includes the exploration of the south of Kangchenjunga Paul Bauer 1937 Himalayan Campaign Blackwell is the story of Bauer s two attempts in 1929 and 1931 republished as Kangchenjunga Challenge William Kimber 1955 Paul Bauer The German Attack on Kangchenjunga The Himalayan Journal 1930 Vol II Lieut Col H W Tobin Exploration and Climbing in The Sikkim Himalaya The Himalayan Journal April 1930 Vol II Provides the early exploration and climbing attempts on Kangchenjunga Prof G O Dyhrenfurth The International Himalayan Expedition 1930 The Himalayan Journal April 1931 Vol III Details their attempt on Kangchenjunga H W Tilman The ascent of Nanda Devi 7 June 1937 Cambridge University Press Relates the story of their intention to climb Kangchenjunga Irving R L G 1940 Ten Great Mountains London J M Dent amp Sons John Angelo Jackson 1955 More than Mountains Book containing data on the 1954 Kangchenjunga reconnaissance Jackson was also a team member of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955 also relates the Daily Mail Abominable Snowman or Yeti Expedition when the first trek from Everest to Kangchenjunga was accomplished 1 Relevant pages 97 onwards with two detailed maps Charles Evans Kangchenjunga The Untrodden Peak Hodder amp Stoughton Leader of the 1955 expedition Principal of the University College of North Wales Bangor Foreword by His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh K G Joe Brown The Hard Years tells his version of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955 Colonel Narinder Kumar 1978 Kangchenjunga First ascent from the north east spur Vision books Includes the second ever ascent of Kangchenjunga and the first from the northeast spur on the Indian side of the mountain See also Himalayan Journal Vol 36 and 50th Anniversary Edition Peter Boardman 1982 Sacred Summits A Climber s Year Includes the 1979 ascent of Kangchenjunga with Joe Tasker and Doug Scott Also in The Himalayan Journal Vol 36 John Angelo Jackson 2005 Adventure Travels in the Himalaya Indus Publishing Recounts in more detail the first ascent of Kangchenjunga Simon Pierse 2005 Kangchenjunga Imaging a Himalayan Mountain University of Wales School of Art Press ISBN 978 1 899095 22 3 An anthology of word and image published to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the first ascents of Kangchenjunga Well illustrated with reproductions of paintings prints and photographs describing the climbing history and cultural significance of the mountain Preface by George Band The above Himalayan Journal references were all also reproduced in the 50th Anniversary of the First Ascent of Kangchenjunga The Himalayan Club Kolkata Section 2005 Pema Wangchuk and Mita Zulca Khangchendzonga Sacred Summit The book details the stories and legends celebrated by the communities living in the Kangchenjunga s shadow goes over the exploits of the early explorers and mountaineers Chapters cover what Khangchendzonga means to Buddhism mapping early explorers Alexander Kellas early expeditions the first ascent in 1955 the Indian Army ascent 1977 the second British ascent 1979 women climbers the Tiger climbers the yeti and more Profusely illustrated with many period photos The Geographer at High Altitudes Climbing on the Himalaya and other Mountain Ranges By J Norman Collie F R S Edinburgh David Douglas 1902 The Glaciers of Kangchenjunga Douglas Freshfield The Geographical Journal Vol 19 No 4 Apr 1902 pp 453 472 C K Howard Bury 1922 The Mount Everest Expedition The Geographical Journal 59 2 81 99 General Bruce s Illness a Serious handicap The Times British World Copyright Lt R F Norton 19 April 1924 Expedition in the Kangchenjunga area Account of a Photographic Expedition to the Southern Glaciers of Kangchenjunga in the Sikkim Himalaya N A Tombazi The Geographical Journal Vol 67 No 1 Jan 1926 pp 74 76 An Adventure to Kangchenjunga Hugh Boustead The Geographical Journal Vol 69 No 4 Apr 1927 pp 344 350 The Times Literary Supplement Thursday 11 December 1930 The Kangchenjunga Adventure F S Smythe Im Kampf um den Himalaja Paul Bauer The Kangchenjunga Adventure F S Smythe Himalaya Unsere Expedition G O Dyhrenfurth 1930 The Times Literary Supplement Thursday 9 April 1931 Kangchenjunga Paul Bauer The Imperial Gazetteer of India Vol XXVI The Geographical Journal Vol 79 No 1 Jan 1932 pp 53 56 Recent Heroes of Modern Adventure T C Bridges H Hessell Tiltman The Geographical Journal Vol 81 No 6 Jun 1933 p 568 Paul Bauer 1931 Um Den Kantsch der zweite deutsche Angriff auf den Kangchendzonga The Geographical Journal Vol 81 No 4 Apr 1933 pp 362 363 Paul Bauer Sumner Austin 1938 Himalayan Campaign The German Attack on Kangchenjunga The Geographical Journal Vol 91 No 5 478 Charles Evans 1956 Kangchenjunga The Untrodden Peak The Times Literary Supplement Lou Whittaker Memoirs of a Mountain guide 1994See also EditList of elevation extremes by countryPortals Mountains India NepalReferences Edit a b c d e Carter H A 1985 Classification of the Himalaya PDF American Alpine Journal 27 59 109 141 a b c d Jurgalski E de Ferranti J Maizlish A 2000 2005 High Asia II Himalaya of Nepal Bhutan Sikkim and adjoining region of Tibet Peaklist org Retrieved 16 May 2019 a b c d e Freshfield D W 1903 Round Kangchenjunga a narrative of mountain travel and exploration London Edward Arnold Gurung H amp Shrestha R K 1994 Nepal Himalaya Inventory Kathmandu Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation Bhuju U R Shakya P R Basnet T B Shrestha S 2007 Nepal Biodiversity Resource Book Protected Areas Ramsar Sites and World Heritage Sites PDF Kathmandu Nepal International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development Ministry of Environment Science and Technology in cooperation with United Nations Environment Programme Regional Office for Asia and the Pacific ISBN 978 92 9115 033 5 Gillman P 1993 Everest The Best Writing and Pictures from Seventy Years of Human Endeavour Boston Little Brown and Company p 208 ISBN 978 0316904896 Kapadia H 2001 Across Peaks and Passes in Darjeeling and Sikkim New Delhi Indus Publishing Company ISBN 978 8173871269 a b Band G 1955 Kanchenjunga Climbed The Geographical Magazine Vol 28 pp 422 438 Nirash N 1982 The Lepchas of Sikkim PDF Bulletin of Tibetology 18 2 18 23 Denjongpa A B 2002 Kangchendzonga Secular and Buddhist perceptions of the mountain deity of Sikkim among the Lhopos PDF Bulletin of Tibetology 38 5 37 De Schlagintweit H de Schlagintweit A de Schlagintweit R 1863 IV Names explained Results of a Scientific Mission to India and High Asia undertaken between the years MDCCCLIV and MDCCCLVIII by order of the court of Directors of the Honourable East India Company Volume III London Brockhaus Leipzig and Trubner amp Co p 207 Scheid C S 2014 Hidden land and changing landscape Narratives about Mount Khangchendzonga among the Lepcha and the Lhopo Journal of the Irish Society for the Academic Study of Religions 1 1 66 89 Wikramanayake E D ed 2001 Ecoregion based Conservation in the Eastern Himalaya Identifying Important Areas for Biodiversity Conservation Kathmandu World Wildlife Fund and International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development ISBN 978 9993394006 a b Chettri N Bajracharya B amp Thapa R 2008 Feasibility Assessment for Developing Conservation Corridors in the Kangchenjunga Landscape PDF In Chettri N Shakya B amp Sharma E eds Biodiversity Conservation in the Kangchenjunga Landscape Kathmandu International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development pp 21 30 Dhar O N Nandargi Shobha 2000 An appraisal of precipitation distribution around the Everest and Kanchenjunga peaks in the Himalayas Weather 55 7 223 234 Bibcode 2000Wthr 55 223D doi 10 1002 j 1477 8696 2000 tb04065 x S2CID 121273656 a b c d Smythe F S 1930 The Kangchenjunga adventure Victor Gollancz Ltd London Peakbagger com 1987 2012 Yalung Kang Peakbagger com 1987 2012 Kanchenjunga Central Peakbagger com 1987 2012 Kanchenjunga South Peakbagger com 1987 2012 Kangbachen Mason K 1932 The Recent Assaults on Kangchenjunga Review The Geographical Journal 80 5 439 445 Freshfield D W 1902 The Glaciers of Kangchenjunga The Geographical Journal 19 453 475 Asahi K 1999 Data on inventoried glaciers and its distribution in eastern part of Nepal Himalaya Data Report 2 Basic studies for assessing the impacts of the global warming on the Himalayan cryosphere 1994 1998 Institute for Hydrospheric Atmospheric Sciences Nagoya University and Department of Hydrology and Meteorology HMG Nepal Ashahi K Watanabe T 2000 Past and recent glacier fluctuations in Kanchenjunga Himal Nepal Journal of Nepal Geological Society 22 481 490 Bajracharya S R Palash W Shrestha M S Khadgi V R Duo C Das P J amp Dorji C 2015 Systematic Evaluation of Satellite Based Rainfall Products over the Brahmaputra Basin for Hydrological Applications Advances in Meteorology 398687 Shijin W amp Tao Z 2014 Spatial change detection of glacial lakes in the Koshi River Basin the Central Himalayas Environmental Earth Sciences 72 11 4381 4391 Peakbagger com 1987 2015 Kangchenjunga India Nepal Retrieved 11 May 2014 Key Col for Kangchenjunga Peakbagger com Retrieved 3 April 2016 World Top 100 by Prominence Peakbagger com Retrieved 3 April 2016 Harding Luke 2000 Climbers banned from sacred peak The Guardian ISSN 0261 3077 Retrieved 16 October 2017 a b Schlagintweit H v 1871 Die Singhalila Kette zwischen Sikkim und Nepal Reisen in Indien und Hochasien Eine Darstellung der Landschaft der Kultur und Sitten der Bewohner in Verbindung mit klimatischen und geologischen Verhaltnissen Zweiter Band Jena Hermann Costenoble a b Crowley A 1979 Chapter 52 The Confessions of Aleister Crowley An Autohagiography London Boston Routledge amp Kegan Paul ISBN 0 7100 0175 4 Hooker J D 1854 Himalayan journals or Notes of a naturalist in Bengal the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas the Khasia Mountains amp c London John Murray Das S C 1902 A Journey to Lhasa and central Tibet New York London E P Dutton amp Company John Murray a b Blaser W amp Hughes G 2009 Kabru 1883 A Reassessment PDF The Alpine Journal 114 219 228 Ward M 2001 Early Exploration of Kangchenjunga and South Tibet by the pundits Rinzin Namgyal Sarat Chandra Das and Lama Ugyen Gyatso PDF The Alpine Journal 106 191 196 Isserman M amp Weaver S 2008 Fallen Giants a history of Himalayan mountaineering from the age of empire to the age of extremes Devon Duke amp Company pp 61 63 ISBN 978 0 300 11501 7 a b Bauer P 1955 Kangchenjunga Challenge William Kimber London Braham T H 1955 1956 Kangchenjunga Reconnaissance 1954 The Himalayan Journal 19 Archived from the original on 6 January 2014 Braham T H 1996 Kangchenjunga The 1954 Reconnaissance PDF The Alpine Journal 101 33 35 Evans C Band G 1956 Kangchenjunga Climbed The Geographical Journal 122 1 1 12 doi 10 2307 1791469 JSTOR 1791469 Perrin J 2005 Obituary John Jackson Key climber and trainer of British mountaineers The Guardian Retrieved 31 October 2013 Higuchi H 1975 The First Ascent of Yalung Kang PDF Alpine Journal 17 27 Retrieved 30 July 2020 Kumar N 1978 Kangchenjunga from the East American Alpine Journal Retrieved 30 July 2020 Wojciech Wroz Swieta gora Sikkimu Warszawa Sport i Turystyka 1982 ISBN 83 217 2377 2 in Polish Scott D K 1980 Kangchenjunga from the North American Alpine Journal 22 53 437 444 by Explorersweb AdventureStats Retrieved 14 June 2011 Braham Trevor 1996 Forty Years after the First Ascent of Kangchenjunga PDF The Alpine Journal 57 58 Ginette Harrison Everest History List of Kangchenjunga ascents 8000ers com 2008 Retrieved 14 June 2011 Mysza 2009 Kinga Baranowska zdobyla Kangchenjunge Archived 11 March 2013 at the Wayback Machine wspinanie pl 18 May 2009 Tunc Findik zirvede Cnnturk 2011 UIAA 2014 Member spotlight Freedom lies in the mountains for Turkish climber Tunc Findik International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Archived from the original on 8 October 2014 Mountaineers Association MAK Retrieved 23 October 2017 5 climbers feared dead on world s 3rd highest peak NBC News 2013 Retrieved 14 January 2014 Bulgarian Mountaineer Boyan Petrov Climbs Kangchenjunga Summit Novinite Retrieved 23 October 2017 Ace mountaineers from across the country hail Gayen s effort 2014 Retrieved 1 August 2019 Indian climber dies in Nepal hiking official Reuters 2022 Hansen L 2012 5 Mountains Deadlier Than Everest Archived from the original on 23 September 2015 Anna Belikci Denjongpa Kangchendzonga Secular and Buddhist perceptions of the mountain deity of Sikkim among the Lhopos The Abominable Snowman Bear Cat or Creature myfoxdfw com 2010 Archived from the original on 6 August 2010 Shor Thomas 2017 A Step Away from Paradise USA City Lion Press ISBN 9780999291894 External links Edit Wikimedia Commons has media related to Kangchenjunga Kangchenjunga page on Himalaya Info org German Kangchenjunga page on Summitpost org Kangchenjunga History for a more detailed up to date account of the mountain s history and ascents Kangchenjunga India Nepal on Peakbagger Kangchenjunga Peakware com Archived from the original on 4 March 2016 photos Glacier Research Image Project presents photos tracking 24 years of changes in glaciers at Kangchenjunga Mtxplore Mountain Statistics Statistics of Kangchenjunga Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Kangchenjunga amp oldid 1151515864, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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