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Strait of Magellan

The Strait of Magellan (Spanish: Estrecho de Magallanes), also called the Straits of Magellan, is a navigable sea route in southern Chile separating mainland South America to the north and Tierra del Fuego to the south. The strait is considered the most important natural passage between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. The strait is approximately 570 km (310 nmi; 350 mi) long and 2 km (1.1 nmi; 1.2 mi) wide at its narrowest point. In 1520, the Spanish expedition of the Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan, after whom the strait is named, became the first Europeans to discover it.

Strait of Magellan
The Strait of Magellan at the southern tip of South America
Strait of Magellan
LocationMagallanes Region, Chile
Coordinates54°S 71°W / 54°S 71°W / -54; -71
TypeStrait
Basin countriesChile, Argentina
Max. length570 km (350 mi)
Min. width2 km (1.2 mi)
The Strait of Magellan

Magellan's original name for the strait was Estrecho de Todos los Santos ("Strait of All Saints"). The King of Spain, Emperor Charles V, who sponsored the Magellan-Elcano expedition, changed the name to the Strait of Magellan in honor of Magellan.[1]

The route is difficult to navigate due to frequent narrows and unpredictable winds and currents. Maritime piloting is now compulsory. The strait is shorter and more sheltered than the Drake Passage, the often stormy open sea route around Cape Horn, which is beset by frequent gale-force winds and icebergs.[2] Along with the Beagle Channel, the strait was one of the few sea routes between the Atlantic and Pacific before the construction of the Panama Canal.

History edit

Indigenous navigation edit

Land adjacent to the Strait of Magellan has been inhabited by indigenous Americans for at least 13,000 years. Upon their arrival to the region, they would have encountered native equines (Hippidion), the large ground sloth Mylodon, saber toothed cats (Smilodon) the extinct jaguar subspecies Panthera onca mesembrina, the bear Arctotherium, the superficially camel-like Macrauchenia, the fox-like canid Dusicyon avus and lamine camelids, including the extant vicuña and guanaco. Evidence to suggest that Mylodon, Hippidion and the lamines were hunted has been found at some sites, such as Cueva del Medio.[3]

Historically identifiable indigenous ethnic groups around the strait are the Kawésqar, the Tehuelche, the Selk'nam and Yaghan people. The Kawésqar lived on the western part of the strait's northern coast. To the east of the Kawésqar were the Tehuelche, whose territory extended to the north in Patagonia. To the south of the Tehuelche across the strait lived the Selk'nam, who inhabited the majority of the eastern portion of Tierra del Fuego. To the west of the Selk'nam were the Yaghan people, who inhabited the southernmost part of Tierra del Fuego.[4][5]

All tribes in the area were nomadic hunter-gatherers. The Tehuelche were the only non-maritime culture in the area;[dubious ] they fished and gathered shellfish along the coast during the winter and moved into the southern Andes in the summer to hunt.[6] The tribes of the region saw little European contact until the late 19th century. Later, European-introduced diseases decimated portions of the indigenous population.[7]

It is possible that Tierra del Fuego was connected to the mainland in the Early Holocene (c. 9000 years BP) much in the same way that Riesco Island was back then.[8] A Selk'nam tradition recorded by the Salesian missionary Giuseppe María Beauvoir relate that the Selk'nam arrived in Tierra del Fuego by land, and that the Selk'nam were later unable to return north as the sea had flooded their crossing.[9] Selk'nam migration to Tierra del Fuego is generally thought to have displaced a related non-seafaring people, the Haush that once occupied most of the main island.[10] The Selk'nam, Haush, and Tehuelche are generally thought to be culturally and linguistically related peoples physically distinct from the sea-faring peoples.[10]

According to a Selk'nam myth the strait was created along with the Beagle Channel and Fagnano Lake by slingshots falling on Earth during the fight of Taiyín with a witch who was said to have "retained the waters and the foods".[11]

Magellan edit

 
A replica of Victoria, one of Magellan's ships, in the Museo Nao Victoria, Punta Arenas, Chile

The first European contact in this area was evidently the voyage of Ferdinand Magellan.[12] (A report by António Galvão in 1563 that mentions early charts showing the strait as "Dragon's Tail" has led to speculation that there might have been earlier contact, but this is generally discounted.)[12][13][a]

Magellan led an expedition in the service of the Spanish King, Emperor Charles V, to reach the Spice Islands. His ships became the first to navigate the strait in 1520.[14] The five ships included La Trinidad (110 tons, 55 crew members), under the command of Magellan; La San Antonio (120 tons, 60 crew members) under the command of Juan de Cartagena; La Concepción (90 tons, 45 crew members) under the command of Gaspar de Quezada (Juan Sebastián Elcano served as boatswain); La Victoria (85 tons, 42 crew members) under the command of Luis de Mendoza; and La Santiago (75 tons, 32 crew members), under command of Juan Rodríguez Serrano (João Rodrigues Serrão).[citation needed] Before the passage of the strait (and after the mutiny in Puerto San Julián), Álvaro de Mesquita became captain of the San Antonio, and Duarte Barbosa of the Victoria. Later, Serrão became captain of the Concepcion (the Santiago, sent on a mission to find the passage, was caught in a storm and wrecked). San Antonio, charged to explore Magdalen Sound, failed to return to the fleet, instead sailing back to Spain under Estêvão Gomes, who imprisoned the captain Mesquita.[citation needed]

Magellan's ships entered the strait on All Saints' Day, 1 November 1520. Magellan named the strait Estrecho de Todos los Santos ("Strait of All Saints") and planted a flag to claim the land on behalf of the King of Spain.[15] Magellan's chronicler, Antonio Pigafetta, called it the Patagonian Strait, and others Victoria Strait, commemorating the first ship that entered.[16][17][18] Within seven years, it was being called Estrecho de Magallanes in honor of Magellan.[17][18] The Spanish Empire and the Captaincy General of Chile considered the strait the southern boundary of their territory.[citation needed]

16th century explorations after Magellan edit

 
View of the capitulaciones granted by Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor in 1534

In the 1530s Charles V divided South America and whatever was to be south of it into a series of grants to different conquistadors. The strait of Magellan and the area south of it went to Pedro Sánchez de la Hoz.[19][b]

Pedro de Valdivia, the conquistador of Chile, managed to have Charles V extend his governorship all the way to the northern shores of the strait. Meanwhile, Sánchez de la Hoz was executed in Chile by Francisco de Villagra, one of Valdivia's men.

The first map of the Pacific Ocean, Maris Pacifici from 1589, depicts the strait as the only route between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.[citation needed]

The strait and the conquest of Chile edit

Contemporaries differed in their estimation of the strait's significance. In Europe it was viewed by some as an opportunity and a strategic location to facilitate long-range trade, though Antonio Pigafetta seemed to have understood his voyage through the area as an unrepeatable feat.[20] By contrast, conquistador Pedro de Valdivia, in a letter to Charles V, considered the strait a threat through which rival conquistadors could arrive to challenge his claims.[20]

In 1544 Valdivia commissioned Captain Juan Bautista Pastene to explore the coast from Valparaiso to the Strait of Magellan,[20] and installed his personal secretary Juan de Cárdenas in the expedition to produce a written account of the lands discovered in order to solidify his claims before the King.[20] Although Pastene's expedition reached only the 41st parallel south, well short of the strait, it discovered San Pedro Bay and the mouth of Valdivia River, where Valdivia would later found the city that bears his name.[21][22] As Valdivia consolidated his claims, he mentions in a 1548 letter to the Council of the Indies the possibility of establishing contacts between Chile and Seville through the strait.[20]

García Jofré de Loaiza was the second captain to navigate the strait and the first to discover that Tierra del Fuego was an island. Valdivia then dispatched Francisco de Ulloa to survey and explore the strait, facilitating navigation from Spain to Chile. In October 1553, Ulloa sailed from the city of Valdivia in the first expedition to enter the strait from the west. Ulloa reached Woods Bay, but faced with the steep coastline and lack of provisions and fearing entrapment in the strait during the winter, he turned around, returning to Chilean ports in February 1554.[15]

Valdivia himself never actually reached the strait, as he was killed in 1553 attempting to conquer Araucanía, about 1600 km (994 miles) north of the strait.[20][23]

In October 1557, Governor García Hurtado de Mendoza sent another exploratory squad of 70 men under the command of Juan Ladrillero. They were charged with mapping the coastline and surveying the region's flora, fauna, and ethnography. On August 16, 1558, Ladrillero arrived in the Atlantic Ocean, becoming the first navigator to cross the Strait of Magellan in both directions.[15]

Colonization by the Spanish southward in Chile halted after the conquest of the Chiloé Archipelago in 1567. The Spanish are thought to have lacked incentives for further conquests south.[24] The indigenous populations were sparse and did not engage in the sedentary agricultural life of the Spanish.[24] The harsh climate in the fjords and channels of Patagonia may also have deterred further expansion.[24] Even in Chiloé the Spanish encountered difficulties, having to abandon their initial economic model based on gold mining and "hispanic-mediterranean" agriculture.[25]

Spanish attempt to colonise the strait edit

In 1578 English navigator Francis Drake crossed the strait, creating fear on the Pacific coast that an attack was imminent. In order to seal the passage, the Viceroy of Peru, Francisco de Toledo, sent a squadron with two ships under Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa. They carefully explored the strait, trying to ferret out English invaders, while surveying locations for future fortifications.[15]

Pigafetta had described the strait as a hospitable area with many good ports, "cedar" wood, and abundant shellfish and fish.[20]

In 1584, Sarmiento de Gamboa founded two colonies in the strait: Nombre de Jesús and Ciudad del Rey Don Felipe. The latter was established on the north shore of the strait with 300 settlers.[26][27] That winter, it became known as Puerto del Hambre, or "Port Famine", as most of the settlers died of cold or starvation.[28] When Sir Thomas Cavendish landed at the site of Rey Don Felipe in 1587, he found only ruins of the settlement.

The Spanish failure to colonize the Strait of Magellan made the Chiloé Archipelago key in protecting western Patagonia from foreign intrusions.[29] Valdivia, reestablished in 1645, and Chiloé acted as sentries, and as hubs where the Spanish collected intelligence from all over Patagonia.[30]

In 1599 it took five ships under Simon de Cordes and his pilot William Adams four months to traverse the strait; Sebalt de Weert returned before reaching the end.

17th century explorations edit

In 1616, Dutch travelers, including Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire, discovered Cape Horn and recognized the southern end of Tierra del Fuego. Years later, a Spanish expedition commanded by brothers Bartolomé and Gonzalo Nodal verified this discovery[15] making in the way also the first circumnavigation of Tierra del Fuego.[31] After this there would be 150 years before the next ship from Spain would traverse the strait.[31] By 1620, one hundred years after European discovery, at least 55 ships had traversed the strait including 23 Spanish, 17 English and 15 Dutch.[31]

John Narborough's 1670 explorations in Patagonia caused the Spanish to launch various maritime expeditions to western Patagonia from 1674 to 1676.[32][33] In the last and largest one, Pascual de Iriate led a party to Evangelistas Islets at the western entrance to the strait. At Evangelistas sixteen men of the party disappeared on February 17 including the son of Pascual de Iriarte.[34][35] The ill-fated men had attempted to reach one of the islets to install a metal plaque indicating the King of Spain's ownership of the territory.[35] Viceroy of Peru Baltasar de la Cueva issued orders to the governments of Chile, Chiloé and Río de la Plata to inquire about the men who disappeared at Evangelistas Islets.[36] However no information about their fate came forth and it is presumed that the boat wrecked in the same storm that forced the remaining party to leave the area.[36][37] Overall a total of 16–17 men perished in it.[24][37][35] While by 1676 rumours about English bases in Western Patagonia had been dispelled, that year new rumours appeared claiming that England was preparing an expedition to settle the Straits of Magellan.[38] The focus of Spanish attention to repel tentative English settlements shifted from the Pacific coast of Patagonia to the Straits of Magellan and Tierra del Fuego.[38] Such a change, from the western archipelagoes to the strait, meant that any English settlement could be approached by Spain by land from the north, which was not the case for the islands in western Patagonia.[38]

In February 1696, the first French expedition under the command of M. de Gennes reached the Strait of Magellan. The expedition is described by the French explorer, engineer, and hydrographer François Froger [fr] in his A Relation of a Voyage (1699).

18th century explorations edit

In the 18th century further explorations were done by English explorers John Byron and James Cook. The French sent Louis Antoine de Bougainville and Jules Dumont d'Urville.[15] By 1770 the focus of a potential conflict between Spain and Britain had shifted from the strait to Falkland Islands.

19th century edit

Explorations edit

From 1826 to 1830, the strait was explored and thoroughly charted by Phillip Parker King, who commanded the British survey vessel HMS Adventure. In consort with HMS Beagle, King surveyed the complex coasts around the strait. A report on the survey was presented at two meetings of the Geographical Society of London in 1831.[16][39] In connection to these explorations Robert FitzRoy came to suggest the establishment of a British base in strait to aid travel between the British Isles and Australia.[40]

The 1837 French expedition of Dumont D'Urville surveyed the area of Puerto del Hambre and the navigational conditions in the Strait of Magellan.[41] In a report the expedition recommended that a French colony be established at the strait to support future traffic along the route.[41]

Richard Charles Mayne commanded HMS Nassau on a survey expedition to the strait from 1866 to 1869.[42] The naturalist on the voyage was Robert Oliver Cunningham.[43] Charles Darwin requested the Lords of the Admiralty to ask Mayne to collect several boatloads of fossils of extinct quadruped species. Admiral Sulivan had previously discovered an astonishingly rich accumulation of fossil bones not far from the strait. These remains apparently belonged to a more ancient period than collections made by Darwin on HMS Beagle and other naturalists, and therefore were of great scientific interest. Many of these fossils were collected with the aid of hydrographer Richards R. N. and deposited in the British Museum.[44] The Admiralty compiled advice to mariners of the strait in 1871.[45]

Incorporation into Chile edit

Chile took possession of the Strait of Magellan on May 23, 1843. President Manuel Bulnes ordered this expedition after consulting the Chilean libertador Bernardo O'Higgins, who feared an occupation by Great Britain or France. The first Chilean settlement, Fuerte Bulnes, was situated in a forested zone on the north side of the strait, and was later abandoned. In 1848, Punta Arenas was founded farther north, where the Magellanic forests meet the Patagonian plains. In Tierra del Fuego, across the strait from Punta Arenas, the village of Porvenir emerged during the Tierra del Fuego gold rush in the late 19th century. Until the opening of the Panama Canal, the town was an important supply stop for mariners.[2] It has been claimed that Chile's annexation of the area originated from a fear of occupation by Great Britain or France.[16][46]

In the Boundary treaty of 1881 between Chile and Argentina, Argentina effectively recognized Chilean sovereignty over the Strait of Magellan. Argentina had previously claimed all of the strait, or at least the eastern third of it.

In the Treaty of Peace and Friendship of 1984 between Chile and Argentina the conflicts between two countries were settled and Argentina ratified the strait as Chilean.[47]

Steamship navigation edit

In 1840, the Pacific Steam Navigation Company became the first to use steamships for commercial traffic in the strait.[16] Until the Panama Canal opened in 1914, the Strait of Magellan was the main route for steamships traveling from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific. It was often considered safer than the Drake Passage separating Cape Horn from Antarctica, as the Drake Passage is notorious for turbulent and unpredictable weather, and is frequented by icebergs and sea ice. Ships in the strait, protected by Tierra del Fuego to the south and the coast of continental South America to the north, crossed with relative ease, and Punta Arenas became a primary refueling port that provided coal for steamships in transit. The Strait's curving channel, with widths varying between 1.9 and 22 miles (3 to 35 km), experiences unpredictable winds and tidal currents,[48] leading sailing ships to prefer the Drake Passage, where they had more room to maneuver.[49])

20th century to present edit

in 1900, Joshua Slocum was the first documented person to have single-handedly sailed the strait. He experienced a 40-day hiatus in the strait due to storms and adverse weather,[c] while piloting the gaff-rigged sloop oyster boat Spray in the first solo global circumnavigation. He wrote about the experience in Sailing Alone Around the World.[51][52]

In 1976, American open water swimmer Lynne Cox became the first person to swim across the strait. Almost 40 years later, on January 17, 2014, Hunter Wright became the youngest person to swim across the strait at age 17.[16]

In June 2004, the USS Ronald Reagan was the first nuclear-powered aircraft carrier to navigate the strait.[16]

Features edit

 
Map showing the extent of the Patagonian Ice Sheet in the Strait of Magellan area during the Last Glacial Period. Selected modern settlements are shown with yellow dots.

The strait is approximately 570 km (310 nmi; 350 mi) long and 2 km (1.1 nmi; 1.2 mi) wide at its narrowest point (Carlos III Island, west of Cape Froward).[53] The northwestern portion of the strait is connected with other sheltered waterways via the Smyth Channel. This area is similar to the Inside Passage of Alaska. South of Cape Froward, the principal shipping route follows the Magdalena Channel. The climate is generally foggy and cold, and the course is convoluted with several narrow passages. It is several hundred miles shorter than the Drake Passage, but sailing ships, particularly clipper ships, prefer the latter. Its major port is Punta Arenas, a transshipment point for Chilean mutton situated on the Brunswick Peninsula.[54] Exemplifying the difficulty of the passage, it took Magellan 38 days to complete the crossing.[16]

The eastern opening is a wide bay on the border of Chile and Argentina between Punta Dúngeness on the mainland and Cabo del Espíritu Santo ("Cape of the Holy Spirit") on Tierra del Fuego, the border as defined in the Treaty of Peace and Friendship of 1984 between Chile and Argentina. Immediately west are Primera Angostura and Segunda Angostura, narrows formed by two terminal moraines of different ages.[55] The Primera Angostura is the closest approach of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego to mainland South America. Farther west lies Magdalena Island, part of Los Pingüinos Natural Monument. The strait's southern boundary in the east follows first the shoreline of the Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, then the northern end of the Canal Whiteside and the shoreline of Dawson Island.

The western part of the strait leads northwest from the northern end of the Magdalena Channel to the strait's Pacific entrance. This is flanked on the south by Capitán Aracena Island, Clarence Island, Santa Inés Island, Desolación Island (Cabo Pilar), and other smaller islands, and on the north by Brunswick Peninsula, Riesco Island, Muñoz Gamero Peninsula, Manuel Rodriguez Island, and other minor islands of the Queen Adelaide Archipelago. Two narrow channels connect the strait with Seno Otway and Seno Skyring. A broader channel, Smyth Channel, leads north from the strait between Muñoz Gamero Peninsula and Manuel Rodriguez Island. Francisco Coloane Marine and Coastal Protected Area, a sanctuary for humpback whales, is located in this area. This part of the strait lies on the elongated Magallanes-Fagnano Fault, which marks a plate boundary between the South American Plate and the Scotia Plate. This fault continues southward under Almirantazgo Fjord and then below Fagnano Lake.[56] Possibly, new tourism industries could be established in the eastern part of the strait for watching southern right whales,[57] as the number of observations in the area has increased in recent years.[58][59]

In the more well-defined northeastern course of the strait various bays stand out in its geography. Pecket Bay (Spanish: bahía Pecket) is a shallow and somewhat closed bay in the strait located near where Brunswick Peninsula is as narrowest. San Gregorio Bay (Spanish: bahía San Gregorio) is an open bay located in the north coast of the strait.[60] Opposite Pecket Bay is Gente Grande Bay (Spanish: bahía Gente Grande) in Tierra del Fuego.[60]

Tides and weather edit

On the Atlantic side, the strait is characterized by semidiurnal macrotides with mean and spring tide ranges of 7.1 and 9.0 m, respectively. On the Pacific side, tides are mixed and mainly semidiurnal, with mean and spring tide ranges of 1.1 and 1.2 m, respectively.[61] There is enormous tidal energy potential in the strait.[62] The strait is prone to Williwaws, "a sudden violent, cold, katabatic gust of wind descending from a mountainous coast of high latitudes to the sea".[63][d]

Place names edit

The place names of the area around the strait come from a variety of languages. Many are from Spanish and English, and several are from the Ona language, adapted to Spanish phonology and spelling.[64] Examples include Timaukel (a hamlet at the east side of Tierra del Fuego), Carukinka (the end of the Almirantazgo Fjord), Anika (a channel located at 54° 7' S and 70° 30' W), and Arska (the north side of the Dawson Island).

Magellan named the strait Todos los Santos,[15] as he began his voyage through the strait on November 1, 1520, the day of "All Saints" (Todos los Santos in Spanish). Charles V renamed it Estrecho de Magallanes.[citation needed] Magellan named the island on the south side of the strait Tierra del Fuego, which the Yaghan people called Onaisín in the Yaghan language. Magellan also gave the name Patagones to the mainland Indians, and their land was subsequently known as Patagonia.[citation needed]

Bahía Cordes is named for the Dutch pirate Baltazar de Cordes.[65]

The Strait of Magellan Park, 52 km (32 mi) south of Punta Arenas, is a 250 ha (620-acre) protected area.[66]

Lighthouses in the strait edit

 
The County of Peebles and Cavenga are used as a breakwater for the harbour at Punta Arenas.

The National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency lists 41 lighthouses in the waterway. Some of them are more than a century old, and some are declared Monumento Nacional ("national monument"). Among the most notable lighthouses are: County of Peebles hulk, the world's first four-masted, iron-hulled "full-rig ship",[67] used now as a breakwater for the harbour at Punta Arenas; the San Isidro lighthouse, restored in 2004 and is now a museum and lodge;[68] and the Evangelistas Lighthouse, located at the western mouth of the strait and built by George Slight, who wrote on his arrival in 1934:

I never imagined seeing something so wild and desolate as those emerging dark rocks in the middle of the raging waves. To see these stormy craggy rocks was frightening. With a dim light on the horizon we could see large waves crashing heavily in the western part of the islands: a vision that hardly anyone can imagine ...[69]

This strait is one of the region's most popular tourist destinations. Several cruise companies ply its waters, and the lighthouses, including Magdalena Island Light, are popular attractions.[16]

Environment edit

Numerous protected systems are located around the strait (S.P.: Sistema Protegido; B.N.P: Bienes Nacionales Protegidos):[70]

  • B.N.P. Isla Carlos III
  • B.N.P. Islote Rupert
  • S.P. Cabo Espíritu Santo
  • S.P. Cabo Froward
  • S.P. Cabo Posesión
  • S.P. Estepa Húmeda Kampenaiken Tres Chorrillos
  • S.P. Isla Dawson
  • S.P. Península Muñoz Gamero
  • S.P. Reservas Biológicas de Río Cóndor
  • S.P. San Gregorio
  • S.P. San Juan
  • S.P. Timaukel

Traffic edit

 
Port of Punta Arenas in winter

The strait provides a well-protected inland waterway sheltered from rough weather and high seas, allowing for safe navigation. Ships sail through the strait from the Pacific to the Atlantic and back, from the oceans to the Beagle Channel through the Magdalena Channel, Cockburn Channel, Paso Brecknock or Canal Ocasión, Ballenero Channel, O'Brien Channel, Paso Timbales, northwest arm of the Beagle Channel and the Beagle Channel and back, and also to cross the strait from north to south and back.[clarification needed] This is the case for all traffic between the Chile and Argentina and the cities in Tierra del Fuego, Porvenir, Cerro Sombrero, Timaukel, Ushuaia, and Río Grande.

In 2008, 571 Chilean ships and 1,681 non-Chilean ships sailed through the strait.[71] Piloting is compulsory for sailing the strait. As one authority notes, "The Pilotage Regulations of the Chilean Hydrographic and Oceanographic Service ('the Regulations") provide that pilotage through the Magellan Strait is compulsory", with limited exceptions for local traffic. Who pays the fees for the pilot is subject to interpretation, however.[72][73]

Navigation status edit

Article 35 of the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea states that "Nothing in this Part affects: ... the legal regime in straits in which passage is regulated in whole or in part by long-standing international conventions in force specifically relating to such straits". Article V of the Boundary treaty of 1881 between Chile and Argentina established a legal regime for the Strait of Magellan, and in a diplomatic letter to major shipping nations in 1873, Chile promised freedom of navigation through and neutrality within the strait.[74][75]

Gallery edit

See also edit

Footnotes edit

  1. ^ See also: Pre-Columbian trans-oceanic contact theories, Exploration of North America, Waldseemüller map, Madoc, and Norse colonization of North America
  2. ^ Later this has served Chilean and Argentine governments to claim Terra Australis, and Tierra del Fuego and by extension the continent of Antarctica was in effect claimed by Spain and that an animus occupandi existed on the part of Spain in the lands south of the strait.[19] Spain's sovereignty claim over this territory was internationally recognized with the Inter caetera bull of 1493 and the Treaty of Tordesillas of 1494.[19]
  3. ^ In Port Angosto, Strait of Magellan, the Spray was re-rigged as a yawl by adding a jigger.[50]
  4. ^ The Aleutian Islands exhibit the same phenomenon.[63]

References edit

  1. ^ Crum, Haley. "The Man Who Sailed the World". Smithsonianmag.com. Smithsonian Institution. from the original on October 23, 2019. Retrieved October 23, 2019.
  2. ^ a b "Straight Of Magellan – Map & Description". worldatlas.com. from the original on October 19, 2019. Retrieved October 19, 2019.
  3. ^ Villavicencio, Natalia A.; Lindsey, Emily L.; Martin, Fabiana M.; Borrero, Luis A.; Moreno, Patricio I.; Marshall, Charles R.; Barnosky, Anthony D. (February 2016). "Combination of humans, climate, and vegetation change triggered Late Quaternary megafauna extinction in the Última Esperanza region, southern Patagonia, Chile". Ecography. 39 (2): 125–140. Bibcode:2016Ecogr..39..125V. doi:10.1111/ecog.01606. ISSN 0906-7590.
  4. ^ "Strait of Magellan, a voyage throughout History XVI-XXI centuries". magellanstraittravel. Magellan Strait Travel. from the original on October 22, 2019. Retrieved October 23, 2019.
  5. ^ de la Fuente, C.; Ávila-Arcos, M. C.; Galimany, J.; Carpenter, M. L.; Homburger, J. R.; Blanco, A.; Contreras, P.; Cruz Dávalos, D.; Reyes, O.; San Roman, M.; Moreno-Estrada, A.; Campos, P. F.; Eng, C.; Huntsman, S.; Burchard, E. G.; Malaspinas, A. S.; Bustamante, C. D.; Willerslev, E.; Llop, E.; Verdugo, R. A.; Moraga, M. (2018). "Genomic insights into the origin and diversification of late maritime hunter-gatherers from the Chilean Patagonia". Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America. 115 (17): E4006–E4012. Bibcode:2018PNAS..115E4006D. doi:10.1073/pnas.1715688115. PMC 5924884. PMID 29632188.
  6. ^ Espinoza, María Cecilia (November 27, 2003). "RIGHTS-CHILE: A 'New Deal' for Indigenous Groups". ipsnews. Inter Press Service. from the original on October 23, 2019. Retrieved October 23, 2019.
  7. ^ Benson, Andrew; Aeberhard, Danny (November 15, 2010). The Rough Guide to Argentina (4th ed.). Rough Guides. p. 501. ISBN 978-1-84836-521-6.
  8. ^ Mostny, Grete (2011) [1981]. Prehistoria de Chile (in Spanish) (17th ed.). Santiago: Editorial Universitaria. p. 21. ISBN 978-956-11-1703-7.
  9. ^ "Selk'nam". La enciclopedia de ciencias y tecnologías en Argentina (in Spanish). December 1, 2013. from the original on April 28, 2021. Retrieved December 23, 2020.
  10. ^ a b Chapman, Anne; Hester, Thomas R. (1973). "New data on the archaeology of the Haush: Tierra del Fuego". Journal de la Société des Américaniste. 62: 185–208. doi:10.3406/jsa.1973.2088.
  11. ^ Montecino Aguirre, Sonia (2015). "Canal de Beagle". Mitos de Chile: Enciclopedia de seres, apariciones y encantos (in Spanish). Catalonia. p. 125. ISBN 978-956-324-375-8.
  12. ^ a b Richardson, William A.R. (2003). "South America on Maps before Columbus? Martellus's 'Dragon's Tail' Peninsula". Imago Mundi. 55: 25–37. doi:10.1080/0308569032000097477. S2CID 129171245. For some decades a group of scholars in Latin America has been claiming that this so-called 'Dragon's Tail' peninsula is really a pre-Columbian map of South America. In this paper, the cartographical and place-name evidence is examined, showing that the identification has not been proved, and that perceived similarities between the river and coastal outlines on this 'Dragon's Tail' peninsula and those of South America are fortuitous.
  13. ^ de Zurara, Prestage & Beazley 2010, p. cxiv.
  14. ^ "Ferdinand Magellan, Discovery of the Strait of Magellan". Encyclopædia Britannica. from the original on August 7, 2020. Retrieved October 18, 2019.
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  24. ^ a b c d Urbina Carrasco, Ximena (2016). "Interacciones entre españoles de Chiloé y Chonos en los siglos XVII y XVIII: Pedro y Francisco Delco, Ignacio y Cristóbal Talcapillán y Martín Olleta" [Interactions between Spaniards of Chiloé and Chonos in the XVII and XVII centuries: Pedro and Francisco Delco, Ignacio and Cristóbal Talcapillán and Martín Olleta] (PDF). Chungara (in Spanish). 48 (1): 103–114. (PDF) from the original on February 24, 2021. Retrieved December 21, 2019.
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  26. ^ (in Spanish). Archived from the original on March 9, 2008. Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa, según Amancio Landín, uno de sus más reputados biógrafos, nació en Pontevedra, hacia 1532. Julio Guillén --el marino-académico--, por su parte, dice que es posible fuera Colegial Mayor en la Universidad de Alcalá de Henares, ciudad que fue --asegura-- cuna del gran marino español. Este, no ha dejado aclarada la duda sobre su origen geográfico, pues afirmó ser natural de ambos lugares.
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  37. ^ a b Barros Arana 1884, p. 119
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  39. ^ King, P. P. (1839), FitzRoy, Robert (ed.), Narrative of the surveying voyages of His Majesty's Ships Adventure and Beagle between the years 1826 and 1836, describing their examination of the southern shores of South America, and the Beagle's circumnavigation of the globe. Proceedings of the first expedition, 1826–30, under the command of Captain P. Parker King, R.N., F.R.S., vol. I, London: Henry Colburn, from the original on May 5, 2011, retrieved August 15, 2016. – p. 563 September 15, 2016, at the Wayback Machine: Some Observations relating to the Southern Extremity of South America, Tierra del Fuego, and the Strait of Magalhaens; made during the Survey of those Coasts in his Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1830. By Captain Phillip Parker King, F.R.S., Commander of the Expedition; "read before the Geographical Society of London on the 25th of April and 9th of May 1831; and ... printed in the Journal of that Society for the same year."
  40. ^ Talbott, Robert D. (1974). A history of the Chilean boundaries (A Replica ed.). The Iowa State University Press. p. 75. ISBN 0-8138-0305-5.
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  42. ^ Dictionary of national biography. Edited by Leslie Stephen and Sidney Lee. 63 vols. and 2 supplements (6 vols.). London: Smith, Elder & Co. 1885--1912
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  44. ^ Letter from B.J. Sulivan, 27 June 1866 and nn. 6 and 7 in the Darwin Letters. See:[1] February 11, 2023, at the Wayback Machine, [2] February 11, 2023, at the Wayback Machine
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  46. ^ Talbott, Robert D. (November 1967). "The Chilean Boundary in the Strait of Magellan". The Hispanic American Historical Review. 47 (4). Duke University Press: 519–531. doi:10.2307/2510673. JSTOR 2510673.
  47. ^ John Ranson García (December 2011). "CONDICIÓN JURÍDICA DEL ESTRECHO DE MAGALLANES". Revista Chilena de Derecho (in Spanish). 38 (3): 457–485. doi:10.4067/S0718-34372011000300003. from the original on August 7, 2020. Retrieved March 11, 2020. Chile succeeded in making Argentina's claim to the existence of an "Argentine Strait of Magellan" disappear, which that country postulated in a small triangle to the east of the Dungeness - Espiritu Santo line, enclosing Espiritu Santo with Cape Virgins, when Argentina recognized that the eastern end of the Strait of Magellan is that straight line, but at a high price, since it generated Argentina's jurisdiction over all waters, soils and subsoils to the east of the Dungeness - Espiritu Santo line, in Atlantic waters
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  68. ^ . hosteriafarosanisidro.cl. Archived from the original on September 16, 2013.
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  73. ^ Chilean Navy, , Strait of Magellan, Chilean Channels and Fiords; Regulations and information for Piloting. Routes (in Spanish), Chilean Navy, archived from the original on October 8, 2012, retrieved April 16, 2013, Pilotage is compulsory for navigating inner waters, between Canal de Chacao and Cabo de Hornos.
  74. ^ Morris 1989, pp. 68, 104.
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Bibliography edit

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  • Bergreen, Laurence (October 14, 2003). Over the Edge of the World. Harper Perennial. p. 194. ISBN 978-0-06-621173-2.
  • de Zurara, Gomes Eanes; Prestage, Edgar; Beazley, C.R. (2010). The Chronicle of the Discovery and Conquest of Guinea. Vol. 2. New York, NY: Hayklut Society; Cambridge University Press. p. cxiv. ISBN 978-1-108-01390-1.
  • Cumming, Bill (2009). Gone: A chronicle of the seafarers & fabulous clipper ships of R. & J. Craig of Glasgow: Craig's "Counties". Glasgow: Brown, Son, and Ferguson. ISBN 978-1-84927-013-7.
  • Cunningham, Robert Oliver (January 26, 2012) [1871]. Notes on the Natural History of the Strait of Magellan and West Coast of Patagonia Made During the Voyage of H.M.S. Nassau in the Years 1866, 67, 68, & 69. London, Edinburgh, Cambridge, Dublin, Glasgow, Cambridge: Printed by R. Clark for Edmonson & Douglas, Hamilton, Adams & Co., MacMillan & Co., M'Glashan & Gill, James Macalhose, Cambridge University Press. ISBN 978-1-108-04185-0.
  • Galvaão, António; Hakluyt, Richard (2004) [1862]. The Discoveries of the World from their First Original unto the Year of Our Lord 1555. Works issued by the Hakluyt Society. Vol. Issue 30. Kessinger Publishing. ISBN 978-0-7661-9022-1. {{cite book}}: |volume= has extra text (help) Based on the 1601 English translation, sub ann. 1428.
  • Markham, Clements R., ed. (May 15, 2017) [1911]. Early Spanish Voyages to the Strait of Magellan. Hakluyt Society second series. Vol. XXVII. London, U.K.: Routledge, Ashgate Publishing. ISBN 978-1-317-14670-4.
  • Markham, Clements R., ed. (2016) [1895]. Narratives of the voyages of Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa to the Straits of Magellan. Translated by Markham, Clements R. Hakluyt Society.
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  • Mayne, Richard C. (1871). Sailing Directions for Magellan Strait, and Channels Leading to the Gulf of Peñas. Hydrogaphic Office, Admiralty. pp. 37–84.
  • Morris, Michael (July 27, 1989). The Strait of Magellan. International Straits of the World. Dordrecht, Boston, Norwell, MA: M. Nijhoff (sold and distributed in the U.S. and Canada by Kluwer Academic Publishers). pp. 68–104. ISBN 978-0-7923-0181-3.
  • Murphy, Patrick J.; Coye, Ray W. (2013). Mutiny and Its Bounty: Leadership Lessons from the Age of Discovery. New Haven, CT; London, UK: Yale University Press. ISBN 978-0-300-17028-3.
  • Ponce, Jose Vargas; de Córdoba, Antonio; Alcalá-Galiano, Dionisio; Belmonte, Alejandro (1820) [1760–1821]. A Voyage of Discovery to the Strait of Magellan: With an account of the manners and customs of the inhabitants; and of the natural productions of Patagonia; undertaken, by order of the King of Spain (illustrated, reprint ed.). Neele & Son, Biblio Bazaar. ISBN 978-1-371-28632-3.
  • Slocum, Joshua (January 1, 2009) [1900]. Sailing Alone Around the World. The Floating Press. pp. 80–90.
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Further reading edit

External links edit

strait, magellan, spanish, estrecho, magallanes, also, called, straits, magellan, navigable, route, southern, chile, separating, mainland, south, america, north, tierra, fuego, south, strait, considered, most, important, natural, passage, between, atlantic, pa. The Strait of Magellan Spanish Estrecho de Magallanes also called the Straits of Magellan is a navigable sea route in southern Chile separating mainland South America to the north and Tierra del Fuego to the south The strait is considered the most important natural passage between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans The strait is approximately 570 km 310 nmi 350 mi long and 2 km 1 1 nmi 1 2 mi wide at its narrowest point In 1520 the Spanish expedition of the Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan after whom the strait is named became the first Europeans to discover it Strait of MagellanThe Strait of Magellan at the southern tip of South AmericaStrait of MagellanLocationMagallanes Region ChileCoordinates54 S 71 W 54 S 71 W 54 71TypeStraitBasin countriesChile ArgentinaMax length570 km 350 mi Min width2 km 1 2 mi The Strait of MagellanMagellan s original name for the strait was Estrecho de Todos los Santos Strait of All Saints The King of Spain Emperor Charles V who sponsored the Magellan Elcano expedition changed the name to the Strait of Magellan in honor of Magellan 1 The route is difficult to navigate due to frequent narrows and unpredictable winds and currents Maritime piloting is now compulsory The strait is shorter and more sheltered than the Drake Passage the often stormy open sea route around Cape Horn which is beset by frequent gale force winds and icebergs 2 Along with the Beagle Channel the strait was one of the few sea routes between the Atlantic and Pacific before the construction of the Panama Canal Contents 1 History 1 1 Indigenous navigation 1 2 Magellan 1 3 16th century explorations after Magellan 1 3 1 The strait and the conquest of Chile 1 3 2 Spanish attempt to colonise the strait 1 4 17th century explorations 1 5 18th century explorations 1 6 19th century 1 6 1 Explorations 1 6 2 Incorporation into Chile 1 6 3 Steamship navigation 1 7 20th century to present 2 Features 3 Tides and weather 4 Place names 5 Lighthouses in the strait 6 Environment 7 Traffic 8 Navigation status 9 Gallery 10 See also 11 Footnotes 12 References 13 Bibliography 14 Further reading 15 External linksHistory editIndigenous navigation edit Land adjacent to the Strait of Magellan has been inhabited by indigenous Americans for at least 13 000 years Upon their arrival to the region they would have encountered native equines Hippidion the large ground sloth Mylodon saber toothed cats Smilodon the extinct jaguar subspecies Panthera onca mesembrina the bear Arctotherium the superficially camel like Macrauchenia the fox like canid Dusicyon avus and lamine camelids including the extant vicuna and guanaco Evidence to suggest that Mylodon Hippidion and the lamines were hunted has been found at some sites such as Cueva del Medio 3 Historically identifiable indigenous ethnic groups around the strait are the Kawesqar the Tehuelche the Selk nam and Yaghan people The Kawesqar lived on the western part of the strait s northern coast To the east of the Kawesqar were the Tehuelche whose territory extended to the north in Patagonia To the south of the Tehuelche across the strait lived the Selk nam who inhabited the majority of the eastern portion of Tierra del Fuego To the west of the Selk nam were the Yaghan people who inhabited the southernmost part of Tierra del Fuego 4 5 All tribes in the area were nomadic hunter gatherers The Tehuelche were the only non maritime culture in the area dubious discuss they fished and gathered shellfish along the coast during the winter and moved into the southern Andes in the summer to hunt 6 The tribes of the region saw little European contact until the late 19th century Later European introduced diseases decimated portions of the indigenous population 7 It is possible that Tierra del Fuego was connected to the mainland in the Early Holocene c 9000 years BP much in the same way that Riesco Island was back then 8 A Selk nam tradition recorded by the Salesian missionary Giuseppe Maria Beauvoir relate that the Selk nam arrived in Tierra del Fuego by land and that the Selk nam were later unable to return north as the sea had flooded their crossing 9 Selk nam migration to Tierra del Fuego is generally thought to have displaced a related non seafaring people the Haush that once occupied most of the main island 10 The Selk nam Haush and Tehuelche are generally thought to be culturally and linguistically related peoples physically distinct from the sea faring peoples 10 According to a Selk nam myth the strait was created along with the Beagle Channel and Fagnano Lake by slingshots falling on Earth during the fight of Taiyin with a witch who was said to have retained the waters and the foods 11 Magellan edit nbsp A replica of Victoria one of Magellan s ships in the Museo Nao Victoria Punta Arenas ChileThe first European contact in this area was evidently the voyage of Ferdinand Magellan 12 A report by Antonio Galvao in 1563 that mentions early charts showing the strait as Dragon s Tail has led to speculation that there might have been earlier contact but this is generally discounted 12 13 a Magellan led an expedition in the service of the Spanish King Emperor Charles V to reach the Spice Islands His ships became the first to navigate the strait in 1520 14 The five ships included La Trinidad 110 tons 55 crew members under the command of Magellan La San Antonio 120 tons 60 crew members under the command of Juan de Cartagena La Concepcion 90 tons 45 crew members under the command of Gaspar de Quezada Juan Sebastian Elcano served as boatswain La Victoria 85 tons 42 crew members under the command of Luis de Mendoza and La Santiago 75 tons 32 crew members under command of Juan Rodriguez Serrano Joao Rodrigues Serrao citation needed Before the passage of the strait and after the mutiny in Puerto San Julian Alvaro de Mesquita became captain of the San Antonio and Duarte Barbosa of the Victoria Later Serrao became captain of the Concepcion the Santiago sent on a mission to find the passage was caught in a storm and wrecked San Antonio charged to explore Magdalen Sound failed to return to the fleet instead sailing back to Spain under Estevao Gomes who imprisoned the captain Mesquita citation needed Magellan s ships entered the strait on All Saints Day 1 November 1520 Magellan named the strait Estrecho de Todos los Santos Strait of All Saints and planted a flag to claim the land on behalf of the King of Spain 15 Magellan s chronicler Antonio Pigafetta called it the Patagonian Strait and others Victoria Strait commemorating the first ship that entered 16 17 18 Within seven years it was being called Estrecho de Magallanes in honor of Magellan 17 18 The Spanish Empire and the Captaincy General of Chile considered the strait the southern boundary of their territory citation needed 16th century explorations after Magellan edit nbsp View of the capitulaciones granted by Charles V Holy Roman Emperor in 1534In the 1530s Charles V divided South America and whatever was to be south of it into a series of grants to different conquistadors The strait of Magellan and the area south of it went to Pedro Sanchez de la Hoz 19 b Pedro de Valdivia the conquistador of Chile managed to have Charles V extend his governorship all the way to the northern shores of the strait Meanwhile Sanchez de la Hoz was executed in Chile by Francisco de Villagra one of Valdivia s men The first map of the Pacific Ocean Maris Pacifici from 1589 depicts the strait as the only route between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans citation needed The strait and the conquest of Chile edit Further information Conquest of Chile Contemporaries differed in their estimation of the strait s significance In Europe it was viewed by some as an opportunity and a strategic location to facilitate long range trade though Antonio Pigafetta seemed to have understood his voyage through the area as an unrepeatable feat 20 By contrast conquistador Pedro de Valdivia in a letter to Charles V considered the strait a threat through which rival conquistadors could arrive to challenge his claims 20 In 1544 Valdivia commissioned Captain Juan Bautista Pastene to explore the coast from Valparaiso to the Strait of Magellan 20 and installed his personal secretary Juan de Cardenas in the expedition to produce a written account of the lands discovered in order to solidify his claims before the King 20 Although Pastene s expedition reached only the 41st parallel south well short of the strait it discovered San Pedro Bay and the mouth of Valdivia River where Valdivia would later found the city that bears his name 21 22 As Valdivia consolidated his claims he mentions in a 1548 letter to the Council of the Indies the possibility of establishing contacts between Chile and Seville through the strait 20 Garcia Jofre de Loaiza was the second captain to navigate the strait and the first to discover that Tierra del Fuego was an island Valdivia then dispatched Francisco de Ulloa to survey and explore the strait facilitating navigation from Spain to Chile In October 1553 Ulloa sailed from the city of Valdivia in the first expedition to enter the strait from the west Ulloa reached Woods Bay but faced with the steep coastline and lack of provisions and fearing entrapment in the strait during the winter he turned around returning to Chilean ports in February 1554 15 Valdivia himself never actually reached the strait as he was killed in 1553 attempting to conquer Araucania about 1600 km 994 miles north of the strait 20 23 In October 1557 Governor Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza sent another exploratory squad of 70 men under the command of Juan Ladrillero They were charged with mapping the coastline and surveying the region s flora fauna and ethnography On August 16 1558 Ladrillero arrived in the Atlantic Ocean becoming the first navigator to cross the Strait of Magellan in both directions 15 Colonization by the Spanish southward in Chile halted after the conquest of the Chiloe Archipelago in 1567 The Spanish are thought to have lacked incentives for further conquests south 24 The indigenous populations were sparse and did not engage in the sedentary agricultural life of the Spanish 24 The harsh climate in the fjords and channels of Patagonia may also have deterred further expansion 24 Even in Chiloe the Spanish encountered difficulties having to abandon their initial economic model based on gold mining and hispanic mediterranean agriculture 25 Spanish attempt to colonise the strait edit Main article Spanish colonization attempt of the Strait of Magellan In 1578 English navigator Francis Drake crossed the strait creating fear on the Pacific coast that an attack was imminent In order to seal the passage the Viceroy of Peru Francisco de Toledo sent a squadron with two ships under Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa They carefully explored the strait trying to ferret out English invaders while surveying locations for future fortifications 15 Pigafetta had described the strait as a hospitable area with many good ports cedar wood and abundant shellfish and fish 20 In 1584 Sarmiento de Gamboa founded two colonies in the strait Nombre de Jesus and Ciudad del Rey Don Felipe The latter was established on the north shore of the strait with 300 settlers 26 27 That winter it became known as Puerto del Hambre or Port Famine as most of the settlers died of cold or starvation 28 When Sir Thomas Cavendish landed at the site of Rey Don Felipe in 1587 he found only ruins of the settlement The Spanish failure to colonize the Strait of Magellan made the Chiloe Archipelago key in protecting western Patagonia from foreign intrusions 29 Valdivia reestablished in 1645 and Chiloe acted as sentries and as hubs where the Spanish collected intelligence from all over Patagonia 30 In 1599 it took five ships under Simon de Cordes and his pilot William Adams four months to traverse the strait Sebalt de Weert returned before reaching the end 17th century explorations edit Further information Garcia de Nodal expedition In 1616 Dutch travelers including Willem Schouten and Jacob Le Maire discovered Cape Horn and recognized the southern end of Tierra del Fuego Years later a Spanish expedition commanded by brothers Bartolome and Gonzalo Nodal verified this discovery 15 making in the way also the first circumnavigation of Tierra del Fuego 31 After this there would be 150 years before the next ship from Spain would traverse the strait 31 By 1620 one hundred years after European discovery at least 55 ships had traversed the strait including 23 Spanish 17 English and 15 Dutch 31 John Narborough s 1670 explorations in Patagonia caused the Spanish to launch various maritime expeditions to western Patagonia from 1674 to 1676 32 33 In the last and largest one Pascual de Iriate led a party to Evangelistas Islets at the western entrance to the strait At Evangelistas sixteen men of the party disappeared on February 17 including the son of Pascual de Iriarte 34 35 The ill fated men had attempted to reach one of the islets to install a metal plaque indicating the King of Spain s ownership of the territory 35 Viceroy of Peru Baltasar de la Cueva issued orders to the governments of Chile Chiloe and Rio de la Plata to inquire about the men who disappeared at Evangelistas Islets 36 However no information about their fate came forth and it is presumed that the boat wrecked in the same storm that forced the remaining party to leave the area 36 37 Overall a total of 16 17 men perished in it 24 37 35 While by 1676 rumours about English bases in Western Patagonia had been dispelled that year new rumours appeared claiming that England was preparing an expedition to settle the Straits of Magellan 38 The focus of Spanish attention to repel tentative English settlements shifted from the Pacific coast of Patagonia to the Straits of Magellan and Tierra del Fuego 38 Such a change from the western archipelagoes to the strait meant that any English settlement could be approached by Spain by land from the north which was not the case for the islands in western Patagonia 38 In February 1696 the first French expedition under the command of M de Gennes reached the Strait of Magellan The expedition is described by the French explorer engineer and hydrographer Francois Froger fr in his A Relation of a Voyage 1699 18th century explorations edit In the 18th century further explorations were done by English explorers John Byron and James Cook The French sent Louis Antoine de Bougainville and Jules Dumont d Urville 15 By 1770 the focus of a potential conflict between Spain and Britain had shifted from the strait to Falkland Islands 19th century edit Explorations edit From 1826 to 1830 the strait was explored and thoroughly charted by Phillip Parker King who commanded the British survey vessel HMS Adventure In consort with HMS Beagle King surveyed the complex coasts around the strait A report on the survey was presented at two meetings of the Geographical Society of London in 1831 16 39 In connection to these explorations Robert FitzRoy came to suggest the establishment of a British base in strait to aid travel between the British Isles and Australia 40 The 1837 French expedition of Dumont D Urville surveyed the area of Puerto del Hambre and the navigational conditions in the Strait of Magellan 41 In a report the expedition recommended that a French colony be established at the strait to support future traffic along the route 41 Richard Charles Mayne commanded HMS Nassau on a survey expedition to the strait from 1866 to 1869 42 The naturalist on the voyage was Robert Oliver Cunningham 43 Charles Darwin requested the Lords of the Admiralty to ask Mayne to collect several boatloads of fossils of extinct quadruped species Admiral Sulivan had previously discovered an astonishingly rich accumulation of fossil bones not far from the strait These remains apparently belonged to a more ancient period than collections made by Darwin on HMS Beagle and other naturalists and therefore were of great scientific interest Many of these fossils were collected with the aid of hydrographer Richards R N and deposited in the British Museum 44 The Admiralty compiled advice to mariners of the strait in 1871 45 Incorporation into Chile edit See also Chilean colonization of the Strait of Magellan Patagonian sheep farming boom and Tierra del Fuego gold rush Chile took possession of the Strait of Magellan on May 23 1843 President Manuel Bulnes ordered this expedition after consulting the Chilean libertador Bernardo O Higgins who feared an occupation by Great Britain or France The first Chilean settlement Fuerte Bulnes was situated in a forested zone on the north side of the strait and was later abandoned In 1848 Punta Arenas was founded farther north where the Magellanic forests meet the Patagonian plains In Tierra del Fuego across the strait from Punta Arenas the village of Porvenir emerged during the Tierra del Fuego gold rush in the late 19th century Until the opening of the Panama Canal the town was an important supply stop for mariners 2 It has been claimed that Chile s annexation of the area originated from a fear of occupation by Great Britain or France 16 46 In the Boundary treaty of 1881 between Chile and Argentina Argentina effectively recognized Chilean sovereignty over the Strait of Magellan Argentina had previously claimed all of the strait or at least the eastern third of it In the Treaty of Peace and Friendship of 1984 between Chile and Argentina the conflicts between two countries were settled and Argentina ratified the strait as Chilean 47 Steamship navigation edit In 1840 the Pacific Steam Navigation Company became the first to use steamships for commercial traffic in the strait 16 Until the Panama Canal opened in 1914 the Strait of Magellan was the main route for steamships traveling from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific It was often considered safer than the Drake Passage separating Cape Horn from Antarctica as the Drake Passage is notorious for turbulent and unpredictable weather and is frequented by icebergs and sea ice Ships in the strait protected by Tierra del Fuego to the south and the coast of continental South America to the north crossed with relative ease and Punta Arenas became a primary refueling port that provided coal for steamships in transit The Strait s curving channel with widths varying between 1 9 and 22 miles 3 to 35 km experiences unpredictable winds and tidal currents 48 leading sailing ships to prefer the Drake Passage where they had more room to maneuver 49 20th century to present edit in 1900 Joshua Slocum was the first documented person to have single handedly sailed the strait He experienced a 40 day hiatus in the strait due to storms and adverse weather c while piloting the gaff rigged sloop oyster boat Spray in the first solo global circumnavigation He wrote about the experience in Sailing Alone Around the World 51 52 In 1976 American open water swimmer Lynne Cox became the first person to swim across the strait Almost 40 years later on January 17 2014 Hunter Wright became the youngest person to swim across the strait at age 17 16 In June 2004 the USS Ronald Reagan was the first nuclear powered aircraft carrier to navigate the strait 16 Features edit nbsp Map showing the extent of the Patagonian Ice Sheet in the Strait of Magellan area during the Last Glacial Period Selected modern settlements are shown with yellow dots The strait is approximately 570 km 310 nmi 350 mi long and 2 km 1 1 nmi 1 2 mi wide at its narrowest point Carlos III Island west of Cape Froward 53 The northwestern portion of the strait is connected with other sheltered waterways via the Smyth Channel This area is similar to the Inside Passage of Alaska South of Cape Froward the principal shipping route follows the Magdalena Channel The climate is generally foggy and cold and the course is convoluted with several narrow passages It is several hundred miles shorter than the Drake Passage but sailing ships particularly clipper ships prefer the latter Its major port is Punta Arenas a transshipment point for Chilean mutton situated on the Brunswick Peninsula 54 Exemplifying the difficulty of the passage it took Magellan 38 days to complete the crossing 16 The eastern opening is a wide bay on the border of Chile and Argentina between Punta Dungeness on the mainland and Cabo del Espiritu Santo Cape of the Holy Spirit on Tierra del Fuego the border as defined in the Treaty of Peace and Friendship of 1984 between Chile and Argentina Immediately west are Primera Angostura and Segunda Angostura narrows formed by two terminal moraines of different ages 55 The Primera Angostura is the closest approach of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego to mainland South America Farther west lies Magdalena Island part of Los Pinguinos Natural Monument The strait s southern boundary in the east follows first the shoreline of the Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego then the northern end of the Canal Whiteside and the shoreline of Dawson Island The western part of the strait leads northwest from the northern end of the Magdalena Channel to the strait s Pacific entrance This is flanked on the south by Capitan Aracena Island Clarence Island Santa Ines Island Desolacion Island Cabo Pilar and other smaller islands and on the north by Brunswick Peninsula Riesco Island Munoz Gamero Peninsula Manuel Rodriguez Island and other minor islands of the Queen Adelaide Archipelago Two narrow channels connect the strait with Seno Otway and Seno Skyring A broader channel Smyth Channel leads north from the strait between Munoz Gamero Peninsula and Manuel Rodriguez Island Francisco Coloane Marine and Coastal Protected Area a sanctuary for humpback whales is located in this area This part of the strait lies on the elongated Magallanes Fagnano Fault which marks a plate boundary between the South American Plate and the Scotia Plate This fault continues southward under Almirantazgo Fjord and then below Fagnano Lake 56 Possibly new tourism industries could be established in the eastern part of the strait for watching southern right whales 57 as the number of observations in the area has increased in recent years 58 59 In the more well defined northeastern course of the strait various bays stand out in its geography Pecket Bay Spanish bahia Pecket is a shallow and somewhat closed bay in the strait located near where Brunswick Peninsula is as narrowest San Gregorio Bay Spanish bahia San Gregorio is an open bay located in the north coast of the strait 60 Opposite Pecket Bay is Gente Grande Bay Spanish bahia Gente Grande in Tierra del Fuego 60 Tides and weather editOn the Atlantic side the strait is characterized by semidiurnal macrotides with mean and spring tide ranges of 7 1 and 9 0 m respectively On the Pacific side tides are mixed and mainly semidiurnal with mean and spring tide ranges of 1 1 and 1 2 m respectively 61 There is enormous tidal energy potential in the strait 62 The strait is prone to Williwaws a sudden violent cold katabatic gust of wind descending from a mountainous coast of high latitudes to the sea 63 d Place names editThe place names of the area around the strait come from a variety of languages Many are from Spanish and English and several are from the Ona language adapted to Spanish phonology and spelling 64 Examples include Timaukel a hamlet at the east side of Tierra del Fuego Carukinka the end of the Almirantazgo Fjord Anika a channel located at 54 7 S and 70 30 W and Arska the north side of the Dawson Island Magellan named the strait Todos los Santos 15 as he began his voyage through the strait on November 1 1520 the day of All Saints Todos los Santos in Spanish Charles V renamed it Estrecho de Magallanes citation needed Magellan named the island on the south side of the strait Tierra del Fuego which the Yaghan people called Onaisin in the Yaghan language Magellan also gave the name Patagones to the mainland Indians and their land was subsequently known as Patagonia citation needed Bahia Cordes is named for the Dutch pirate Baltazar de Cordes 65 The Strait of Magellan Park 52 km 32 mi south of Punta Arenas is a 250 ha 620 acre protected area 66 Lighthouses in the strait editMain articles List of lighthouses and lightvessels in Chile and List of lighthouses in Chile NGA2328 NGA2718 Strait of Magellan 71 68 W nbsp The County of Peebles and Cavenga are used as a breakwater for the harbour at Punta Arenas The National Geospatial Intelligence Agency lists 41 lighthouses in the waterway Some of them are more than a century old and some are declared Monumento Nacional national monument Among the most notable lighthouses are County of Peebles hulk the world s first four masted iron hulled full rig ship 67 used now as a breakwater for the harbour at Punta Arenas the San Isidro lighthouse restored in 2004 and is now a museum and lodge 68 and the Evangelistas Lighthouse located at the western mouth of the strait and built by George Slight who wrote on his arrival in 1934 I never imagined seeing something so wild and desolate as those emerging dark rocks in the middle of the raging waves To see these stormy craggy rocks was frightening With a dim light on the horizon we could see large waves crashing heavily in the western part of the islands a vision that hardly anyone can imagine 69 This strait is one of the region s most popular tourist destinations Several cruise companies ply its waters and the lighthouses including Magdalena Island Light are popular attractions 16 Environment editSee also VLCC Metula oil spill Los Pinguinos Natural Monument Francisco Coloane Marine and Coastal Protected Area Alacalufes National Reserve Magallanes National Reserve and Magellanic subpolar forests Numerous protected systems are located around the strait S P Sistema Protegido B N P Bienes Nacionales Protegidos 70 B N P Isla Carlos III B N P Islote Rupert S P Cabo Espiritu Santo S P Cabo Froward S P Cabo Posesion S P Estepa Humeda Kampenaiken Tres Chorrillos S P Isla Dawson S P Peninsula Munoz Gamero S P Reservas Biologicas de Rio Condor S P San Gregorio S P San Juan S P TimaukelTraffic edit nbsp Port of Punta Arenas in winterThe strait provides a well protected inland waterway sheltered from rough weather and high seas allowing for safe navigation Ships sail through the strait from the Pacific to the Atlantic and back from the oceans to the Beagle Channel through the Magdalena Channel Cockburn Channel Paso Brecknock or Canal Ocasion Ballenero Channel O Brien Channel Paso Timbales northwest arm of the Beagle Channel and the Beagle Channel and back and also to cross the strait from north to south and back clarification needed This is the case for all traffic between the Chile and Argentina and the cities in Tierra del Fuego Porvenir Cerro Sombrero Timaukel Ushuaia and Rio Grande In 2008 571 Chilean ships and 1 681 non Chilean ships sailed through the strait 71 Piloting is compulsory for sailing the strait As one authority notes The Pilotage Regulations of the Chilean Hydrographic and Oceanographic Service the Regulations provide that pilotage through the Magellan Strait is compulsory with limited exceptions for local traffic Who pays the fees for the pilot is subject to interpretation however 72 73 Navigation status editSee also Treaty of Peace and Friendship of 1984 between Chile and Argentina Article 35 of the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea states that Nothing in this Part affects the legal regime in straits in which passage is regulated in whole or in part by long standing international conventions in force specifically relating to such straits Article V of the Boundary treaty of 1881 between Chile and Argentina established a legal regime for the Strait of Magellan and in a diplomatic letter to major shipping nations in 1873 Chile promised freedom of navigation through and neutrality within the strait 74 75 Gallery editStrait of Magellan nbsp Barcaza Melinka at Porvenir port providing a ferry service across the strait between Punta Arenas and Porvenir nbsp The Strait of Magellan at dawn nbsp A true color MODIS satellite image of the strait nbsp U S Navy carrier USS Ronald Reagan in the straitSee also edit nbsp Geography portalAgostini Fjord Archipelagoes of Patagonia Bahia Posesion Beaver eradication in Tierra del Fuego Cape Route Continental Divide of the Americas Exploration of the Pacific Fjords and channels of Chile Geography of Chile Islands of Chile List of Antarctic and subantarctic islands List of fjords channels sounds and straits of Chile List of islands of Chile List of things named after Ferdinand Magellan Magallanes Region Monte Sarmiento Punta Arenas Timeline of the Magellan Elcano circumnavigation Transit passageFootnotes edit See also Pre Columbian trans oceanic contact theories Exploration of North America Waldseemuller map Madoc and Norse colonization of North America Later this has served Chilean and Argentine governments to claim Terra Australis and Tierra del Fuego and by extension the continent of Antarctica was in effect claimed by Spain and that an animus occupandi existed on the part of Spain in the lands south of the strait 19 Spain s sovereignty claim over this territory was internationally recognized with the Inter caetera bull of 1493 and the Treaty of Tordesillas of 1494 19 In Port Angosto Strait of Magellan the Spray was re rigged as a yawl by adding a jigger 50 The Aleutian Islands exhibit the same phenomenon 63 References edit Crum Haley The Man Who Sailed the World Smithsonianmag com Smithsonian Institution Archived from the original on October 23 2019 Retrieved October 23 2019 a b Straight Of Magellan Map amp Description worldatlas com Archived from the original on October 19 2019 Retrieved October 19 2019 Villavicencio Natalia A Lindsey Emily L Martin Fabiana M Borrero Luis A Moreno Patricio I Marshall Charles R Barnosky Anthony D February 2016 Combination of humans climate and vegetation change triggered Late Quaternary megafauna extinction in the Ultima Esperanza region southern Patagonia Chile Ecography 39 2 125 140 Bibcode 2016Ecogr 39 125V doi 10 1111 ecog 01606 ISSN 0906 7590 Strait of Magellan a voyage throughout History XVI XXI centuries magellanstraittravel Magellan Strait Travel Archived from the original on October 22 2019 Retrieved October 23 2019 de la Fuente C Avila Arcos M C Galimany J Carpenter M L Homburger J R Blanco A Contreras P Cruz Davalos D Reyes O San Roman M Moreno Estrada A Campos P F Eng C Huntsman S Burchard E G Malaspinas A S Bustamante C D Willerslev E Llop E Verdugo R A Moraga M 2018 Genomic insights into the origin and diversification of late maritime hunter gatherers from the Chilean Patagonia Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America 115 17 E4006 E4012 Bibcode 2018PNAS 115E4006D doi 10 1073 pnas 1715688115 PMC 5924884 PMID 29632188 Espinoza Maria Cecilia November 27 2003 RIGHTS CHILE 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doi 10 1080 0308569032000097477 S2CID 129171245 For some decades a group of scholars in Latin America has been claiming that this so called Dragon s Tail peninsula is really a pre Columbian map of South America In this paper the cartographical and place name evidence is examined showing that the identification has not been proved and that perceived similarities between the river and coastal outlines on this Dragon s Tail peninsula and those of South America are fortuitous de Zurara Prestage amp Beazley 2010 p cxiv Ferdinand Magellan Discovery of the Strait of Magellan Encyclopaedia Britannica Archived from the original on August 7 2020 Retrieved October 18 2019 a b c d e f g Navegantes europeos en el estrecho de Magallanes Discovery and recognition of the territory European navigators in the Strait of Magellan Memoria Chilena in Spanish Archived from the original on January 21 2022 Retrieved October 20 2019 a b c d e f g h Little known Facts About the Hazardous Strait of Magellan 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superstratum in the toponymy of the south of Chile Philological Studies in Spanish 33 55 67 doi 10 4067 S0071 17131998003300004 Archived from the original on April 21 2014 Retrieved September 4 2013 Martinic 1977 Strait of Magellan Park Archived from the original on April 22 2019 Retrieved October 18 2019 Cumming 2009 Hosteria Faro san Isidro hosteriafarosanisidro cl Archived from the original on September 16 2013 Quoted at Bell Rock Bicentennial Biographies 200 bellrock org uk June 26 1934 Archived from the original on October 21 2013 Retrieved September 18 2013 Mapas ambientales de Ministerio de Obras Publicas Archived May 19 2013 at the Wayback Machine retrieved on 26 August 2013 Estrecho De Magallanes Web directemar cl Archived from the original on October 2 2013 Retrieved September 18 2013 Web alert Magellan Strait Pilotage is it compulsory and who should pay the fees The Standard Club Charles Taylor P L C February 23 2015 Archived from the original on October 18 2019 Retrieved October 18 2019 Chilean Navy General piloting regulations and information Strait of Magellan Chilean Channels and Fiords Regulations and information for Piloting Routes in Spanish Chilean Navy archived from the original on October 8 2012 retrieved April 16 2013 Pilotage is compulsory for navigating inner waters between Canal de Chacao and Cabo de Hornos Morris 1989 pp 68 104 See also Chilean note to the UN Law of Sea Declaracion formulada al momento de la ratificacion PDF in Spanish p 9 Archived PDF from the original on March 3 2016 Retrieved June 29 2017 Bibliography editBarros Arana Diego 2000 1884 Capitulo VI Historia General de Chile in Spanish 2 ed Santiago Chile Editorial Universitaria ISBN 978 956 11 1535 4 Bergreen Laurence October 14 2003 Over the Edge of the World Harper Perennial p 194 ISBN 978 0 06 621173 2 de Zurara Gomes Eanes Prestage Edgar Beazley C R 2010 The Chronicle of the Discovery and Conquest of Guinea Vol 2 New York NY Hayklut Society Cambridge University Press p cxiv ISBN 978 1 108 01390 1 Cumming Bill 2009 Gone A chronicle of the seafarers amp fabulous clipper ships of R amp J Craig of Glasgow Craig s Counties Glasgow Brown Son and Ferguson ISBN 978 1 84927 013 7 Cunningham Robert Oliver January 26 2012 1871 Notes on the Natural History of the Strait of Magellan and West Coast of Patagonia Made During the Voyage of H M S Nassau in the Years 1866 67 68 amp 69 London Edinburgh Cambridge Dublin Glasgow Cambridge Printed by R Clark for Edmonson amp Douglas Hamilton Adams amp Co MacMillan amp Co M Glashan amp Gill James Macalhose Cambridge University Press ISBN 978 1 108 04185 0 Galvaao Antonio Hakluyt Richard 2004 1862 The Discoveries of the World from their First Original unto the Year of Our Lord 1555 Works issued by the Hakluyt Society Vol Issue 30 Kessinger Publishing ISBN 978 0 7661 9022 1 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a volume has extra text help Based on the 1601 English translation sub ann 1428 Markham Clements R ed May 15 2017 1911 Early Spanish Voyages to the Strait of Magellan Hakluyt Society second series Vol XXVII London U K Routledge Ashgate Publishing ISBN 978 1 317 14670 4 Markham Clements R ed 2016 1895 Narratives of the voyages of Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa to the Straits of Magellan Translated by Markham Clements R Hakluyt Society Martinic Mateo 1977 Historia del Estrecho de Magallines PDF in Spanish Santiago Andres Bello ISBN 978 956 16 0402 5 Retrieved October 16 2019 Mayne Richard C 1871 Sailing Directions for Magellan Strait and Channels Leading to the Gulf of Penas Hydrogaphic Office Admiralty pp 37 84 Morris Michael July 27 1989 The Strait of Magellan International Straits of the World Dordrecht Boston Norwell MA M Nijhoff sold and distributed in the U S and Canada by Kluwer Academic Publishers pp 68 104 ISBN 978 0 7923 0181 3 Murphy Patrick J Coye Ray W 2013 Mutiny and Its Bounty Leadership Lessons from the Age of Discovery New Haven CT London UK Yale University Press ISBN 978 0 300 17028 3 Ponce Jose Vargas de Cordoba Antonio Alcala Galiano Dionisio Belmonte Alejandro 1820 1760 1821 A Voyage of Discovery to the Strait of Magellan With an account of the manners and customs of the inhabitants and of the natural productions of Patagonia undertaken by order of the King of Spain illustrated reprint ed Neele amp Son Biblio Bazaar ISBN 978 1 371 28632 3 Slocum Joshua January 1 2009 1900 Sailing Alone Around the World The Floating Press pp 80 90 Slocum Joshua March 1 2009 1900 Scher Rod ed The Annotated Sailing Alone Around the World Dobbs Ferry NY Sheridan House ISBN 978 1 57409 275 2 de Vea Antonio 1886 Expedicion de Antonio de Vea Anuario Hidrografico de la Marina de Chile in Spanish Valparaiso pp 539 596 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link Further reading editKent Rockwell March 10 2000 Voyaging Southward from the Strait of Magellan Hardcover Hanover New Hampshire University Press of New England ISBN 978 0 8195 6409 2 Parr Charles McKew 1953 So Noble a Captain The Life and Times of Ferdinand Magellan New York Thomas Y Crowell Robertson James Alexander Pigafetta Antonio August 8 2015 Magellan s Voyage Around the World Hardcover Andesite Press ISBN 978 1 298 53871 0 External links edit nbsp Media related to Strait of Magellan at Wikimedia Commons nbsp Media related to Ship Lord Londsdale a wreckship at Wikimedia Commons The First Map of the Strait of Magellan 1520 from 1800 in English and Latin Map of the Strait of Magellan and Part of the Land of Fire Prepared in 1786 in English and Spanish via World Digital Archive Ministerio de Obras Publicas de Chile 2012 Maps of all regions of Chile Cartas camineras 2010 in 200 dpi and 70 dpi resolution available Maps in Spanish Government of Chile archived from the original on September 4 2012 retrieved April 20 2013 Nov 1 1520 to Nov 28 1520 Ferdinand Magellan discovers and explores Strait of Magellan World History Project Satellite image Strait of Magellan via Google Maps United States Hydrographic Office South America Pilot 1916 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Strait of Magellan amp oldid 1217090926, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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