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Leiden

Leiden (Dutch: [ˈlɛidə(n)] (listen); in English and archaic Dutch also Leyden) is a city and municipality in the province of South Holland, Netherlands. The municipality of Leiden has a population of 119,713,[6] but the city forms one densely connected agglomeration with its suburbs Oegstgeest, Leiderdorp, Voorschoten and Zoeterwoude with 206,647 inhabitants. The Netherlands Central Bureau of Statistics (CBS) further includes Katwijk in the agglomeration which makes the total population of the Leiden urban agglomeration 270,879, and in the larger Leiden urban area also Teylingen, Noordwijk, and Noordwijkerhout are included with in total 348,868 inhabitants. Leiden is located on the Oude Rijn, at a distance of some 20 km (12 mi) from The Hague to its south and some 40 km (25 mi) from Amsterdam to its north. The recreational area of the Kaag Lakes (Kagerplassen) lies just to the northeast of Leiden.

Leiden
Zijlpoort on the Zijlsingel
Location in South Holland
Leiden
Location within the Netherlands
Leiden
Location within Europe
Coordinates: 52°10′N 4°29′E / 52.16°N 4.49°E / 52.16; 4.49Coordinates: 52°10′N 4°29′E / 52.16°N 4.49°E / 52.16; 4.49
CountryNetherlands
ProvinceSouth Holland
Government
 • BodyMunicipal council
 • MayorHenri Lenferink (PvdA)
Area
 • Municipality23.27 km2 (8.98 sq mi)
 • Land21.91 km2 (8.46 sq mi)
 • Water1.36 km2 (0.53 sq mi)
Elevation0 m (0 ft)
Population
 (Municipality, January 2021; Urban and Metro, May 2014)[4][5]
 • Municipality124,093
 • Density5,664/km2 (14,670/sq mi)
 • Urban
238,493
 • Metro
344,299
DemonymLeidenaar
Time zoneUTC+1 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+2 (CEST)
Postcode
2300–2334
Area code071
WebsiteOfficial website
Click on the map for a fullscreen view
Topographic map of Leiden

A university city since 1575, Leiden has been one of Europe's most prominent scientific centres for more than four centuries. Leiden is a typical university city, university buildings are scattered throughout the city and the many students from all over the world give the city a bustling, vivid and international atmosphere. Many important scientific discoveries have been made here, giving rise to Leiden's motto: ‘City of Discoveries’. The city houses Leiden University, the oldest university of the Netherlands, and Leiden University Medical Center. Leiden University is one of Europe's top universities, with thirteen Nobel Prize winners. It is a member of the League of European Research Universities and positioned highly in all international academic rankings. It is twinned with Oxford, the location of the United Kingdom's oldest university. Leiden University and Leiden University of Applied Sciences (Leidse Hogeschool) together have around 35,000 students. Modern scientific medical research and teaching started in the early 18th century in Leiden with Boerhaave.

Leiden is a city with a rich cultural heritage, not only in science, but also in the arts. One of the world's most famous painters, Rembrandt, was born and educated in Leiden. Other famous Leiden painters include Lucas van Leyden, Jan van Goyen and Jan Steen.

History

Historical population
YearPop.±% p.a.
13985,000—    
149711,000+0.80%
151414,250+1.53%
157412,456−0.22%
158112,144−0.36%
162244,745+3.23%
163244,000−0.17%
166567,000+1.28%
173270,000+0.07%
175038,105−3.32%
179530,955−0.46%
Source: Lourens & Lucassen 1997, pp. 112–114

Leiden was formed on an artificial hill (today called the Burcht van Leiden) at the confluence of the rivers Oude and Nieuwe Rijn (Old and New Rhine). In the oldest reference to this, from circa 860, the settlement was called Leithon. The name is said to be from Germanic *leitha- "canal" [7] in dative pluralis, thus meaning "at the canals". "Canal" is actually not the completely proper word. A leitha (later "lede") was a human-modified natural river, partly natural, partly artificial.

Leiden has in the past erroneously been associated with the Roman outpost Lugdunum Batavorum. This particular castellum was thought to be located at the Burcht of Leiden, and the city's name was thought to be derived from the Latin name Lugdunum. However the castellum was in fact closer to the town of Katwijk, whereas the Roman settlement near modern-day Leiden was called Matilo.[8]

 
Windmill museum De Valk

The landlord of Leiden, situated in a stronghold on the hill (motte), was initially subject to the Bishop of Utrecht but around 1100 the burgraves became subject to the county of Holland. This county got its name in 1101 from a domain near the stronghold: Holtland or Holland.

Leiden was sacked in 1047 by Emperor Henry III. Early 13th century, Ada, Countess of Holland took refuge here when she was fighting in a civil war against her uncle, William I, Count of Holland. He besieged the stronghold and captured Ada.

Leiden received city rights in 1266. In 1389, its population had grown to about 4,000 persons.

Siege of 1420

In 1420, during the Hook and Cod wars, Duke John III of Bavaria along with his army marched from Gouda in the direction of Leiden in order to conquer the city since Leiden did not pay the new Count of Holland Jacqueline, Countess of Hainaut, his niece and only daughter of Count William VI of Holland.

Burgrave Filips of Wassenaar and the other local noblemen of the Hook faction assumed that the duke would besiege Leiden first and send small units out to conquer the surrounding citadels. But John of Bavaria chose to attack the citadels first.

He rolled the cannons along with his army but one which was too heavy went by ship. By firing at the walls and gates with iron balls the citadels fell one by one. Within a week John of Bavaria conquered the castles of Poelgeest, Ter Does, Hoichmade, de Zijl, ter Waerd, Warmond and de Paddenpoel.

On 24 June the army appeared before the walls of Leiden. On 17 August 1420, after a two-month siege the city surrendered to John of Bavaria. The burgrave Filips of Wassenaar was stripped of his offices and rights and lived out his last years in captivity.

16th to 18th centuries

 
Relief of Leiden (1574), painting by Otto van Veen. Inundated meadows allow the Dutch fleet access to the Spanish infantry positions.
 
17th-century houses along the Herengracht
 
Town hall and bridge (de Koornbrug)
 
The 1852 Sijthoff printing office, Leiden
 
Leiden's west gate, the Morspoort
 
Leiden's east gate, the Zijlpoort
 
The Singel at night, showing the chimney of the Light Factory

Leiden flourished in the 16th and 17th century. At the close of the 15th century the weaving establishments (mainly broadcloth) of Leiden were very important. In the same period, Leiden developed an important printing and publishing industry. The influential printers Lucas van Leyden and Otto van Veen lived here, and so did Christoffel Plantijn. One of Christoffel's pupils was Lodewijk Elzevir (1547–1617), who established the largest bookshop and printing works in Leiden, a business continued by his descendants through 1712 and the name subsequently adopted (in a variant spelling) by contemporary publisher Elsevier.[citation needed]

In 1572, the city sided with the Dutch revolt against Spanish rule and played an important role in the Eighty Years' War. Besieged from May until October 1574 by the Spanish, Leiden was relieved by the cutting of the dikes, thus enabling ships to carry provisions to the inhabitants of the flooded town. As a reward for the heroic defence of the previous year, the University of Leiden was founded by William I of Orange in 1575. Yearly on 3 October, the end of the siege is still celebrated in Leiden. Tradition tells that the citizens were offered the choice between a university and a certain exemption from taxes and chose the university. The siege is notable also for being the first instance in Europe of the issuance of paper money, with paper taken from prayer books being stamped using coin dies when silver ran out.[9]

Leiden is also known as the place where the Pilgrims (as well as some of the first settlers of New Amsterdam)[10][11] lived, they operated a printing press[12] for a time in the early 17th century before their departure to Massachusetts and New Amsterdam in the New World.[13] After the expulsion of the Spaniards, Leiden cloth, Leiden baize and Leiden camlet became familiar terms.[citation needed]

In the 17th century, Leiden prospered, in part because of the impetus to the textile industry by refugees from Flanders. While the city had lost about a third of its 15,000 citizens during the siege of 1574, it quickly recovered to 45,000 inhabitants in 1622, and may have come near to 70,000 circa 1670. During the Dutch Golden Era, Leiden was the second largest city of Holland, after Amsterdam.[14] Particularly due to the work by Herman Boerhaave (1668–1738), it played a crucial role in the establishment of modern chemistry and medicine.

From the late 17th century onwards Leiden slumped, mainly due to the decline of the cloth industries. In the beginning of the 19th century the baize manufacture was altogether given up, although industry remained central to Leiden economy. This decline is painted vividly by the fall in population. The population of Leiden had sunk to 30,000 between 1796 and 1811, and in 1904 was 56,044.[15]

From the 17th to the early 19th century, Leiden was the publishing place of one of the most important contemporary journals, Nouvelles Extraordinaires de Divers Endroits, known also as Gazette de Leyde.[16]

19th and 20th centuries

On 12 January 1807, a catastrophe struck the city when a boat loaded with 17,400 kg (38,360 lb) of gunpowder blew up in the middle of Leiden. 151 people were killed, over 2,000 were injured and some 220 homes were destroyed. King Louis Bonaparte personally visited the city to provide assistance to the victims. Although located in the centre of the city, the area destroyed remained empty for many years. In 1886 the space was turned into a public park, the Van der Werff park.[17]

In 1842, the railroad from Leiden to Haarlem was inaugurated and one year later the railway to The Hague (Den Haag) was completed, resulting in some social and economic improvement. Perhaps the most important piece of Dutch history contributed by Leiden was the Constitution of the Netherlands. Johan Rudolf Thorbecke (1798–1872) wrote the Dutch Constitution in April 1848 in his house at Garenmarkt 9 in Leiden.

Leiden's reputation as the "city of books" continued through the 19th century with the establishment of publishing dynasties by Evert Jan Brill and Albertus Willem Sijthoff.[18] Sijthoff, who rose to prominence in the trade of translated books, wrote a letter in 1899 to Queen Wilhelmina regarding his opposition to becoming a signatory to the Berne Convention for the Protection of Literary and Artistic Works. He felt that international copyright restrictions would stifle the Dutch publishing industry.[19]

 
Leiden grew twelve-fold in size between 1896 and 1981, annexing land from neighboring municipalities.

Leiden began to expand beyond its 17th-century moats around 1896 and the number of citizens surpassed 50,000 in 1900. After 1920, new industries were established in the city, such as the canning and metal industries. During World War II, Leiden was hit hard by Allied bombardments. The areas surrounding the railway station and Marewijk were almost completely destroyed.

The University of Leiden is famous for its many discoveries including Snell's law (by Willebrord Snellius) and the famous Leyden jar, a capacitor made from a glass jar, invented in Leiden by Pieter van Musschenbroek in 1746. Another development was in cryogenics: Heike Kamerlingh Onnes (1913 Nobel prize winner in physics) liquefied helium for the first time (1908) and later managed to reach a temperature of less than one degree above the absolute minimum. Albert Einstein also spent some time at Leiden University during his early to middle career.

Leiden today

The city's biggest and most popular annual festival is celebrated on 3 October and is called simply 3 Oktober. The people of Leiden celebrate the end of the Spanish siege of 1574.[20] It typically takes place over the course of two to three days and includes parades, a hutspot feast, historical reenactments, a funfair and other events. Since 2006, the city has also hosted the annual Leiden International Film Festival.[21]

Leiden has important functions as a shopping and trade centre for communities around the city.

The city also houses the Eurotransplant, the international organization responsible for the mediation and allocation of organ donation procedures in Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Germany, Luxembourg, the Netherlands and Slovenia. Leiden also houses the headquarters of Airbus, a global pan-European aerospace and defence corporation and a leading defence and military contractor worldwide. The group includes Airbus, the leading manufacturer of commercial aircraft worldwide.

Rivers, canals and parks

 
Canal near Leiden - May 1978

The two branches of the Oude Rijn, which enter Leiden on the east, unite in the centre of the city. The city is further intersected by numerous small canals with tree-bordered quays. On the west side of the city, the Hortus Botanicus and other gardens extend along the old Singel, or outer canal. The Leidse Hout park, which contains a small deer park, lies on the northwest border with Oegstgeest. The Van der Werf Park is named after the mayor Pieter Adriaansz. van der Werff [nl], who defended the city against the Spaniards in 1574. The city was beleaguered for months and many died from famine. The open space for the park was formed by the accidental explosion of a ship loaded with gunpowder in 1807, which destroyed hundreds of houses, including that of the Elsevier family of printers.

Buildings of interest

Because of the economic decline from the end of the 17th until the middle of the 19th century, much of the 16th- and 17th-century city centre is still intact. It is the second largest 17th-century town centre in the Netherlands, the largest being Amsterdam's city centre.

A hundred buildings in the centre are decorated with large murals of poetry, part of a wall poem project active from 1992, and still ongoing.[22][23]

Fortifications

At the strategically important junction of the two arms of the Oude Rijn stands the old castle de Burcht, a circular tower built on an earthen mound. The mound probably was a refuge against high water before a small wooden fortress was built on top of it in the 11th century. The citadel is a so-called motte-and-bailey castle.[24] Of Leiden's old city gates only two are left, the Zijlpoort and the Morspoort,[25] both dating from the end of the 17th century. Apart from one small watch tower on the Singel nothing is left of the town's city walls. Another former fortification is the Gravensteen. Built as a fortress in the 13th century it has since served as house, library and prison.[26] Presently it is one of the university's buildings.

Churches

 

The chief of Leiden's numerous churches are the Hooglandse Kerk (or the church of St Pancras, built in the 15th century and containing a monument to Pieter Adriaansz. van der Werff) and the Pieterskerk (church of St Peter (1315)) with monuments to Scaliger, Boerhaave and other famous scholars. From a historical perspective the Marekerk is interesting too. Arent van 's Gravesande designed that church in 1639. Other fine examples of his work in Leiden are in the Stedelijk Museum De Lakenhal (the municipal museum of fine arts), and the Bibliotheca Thysiana. The growing city needed another church and the Marekerk was the first Protestant church to be built in Leiden (and in Holland) after the Reformation. It is an example of Dutch Classicism. In the drawings by Van 's Gravesande the pulpit is the centrepiece of the church. The pulpit is modelled after the one in the Nieuwe Kerk at Haarlem (designed by Jacob van Campen). The building was first used in 1650, and is still in use. The Heilige Lodewijkkerk is first catholic church in Leiden that was built after the Reformation. This church was given to the Catholics after the gunpowder explosion in 1807, which killed 150 inhabitants and destroyed a large part of the city centre.[27][28] The 'Waalse Kerk' (Breestraat 63) was originally part of the Katharina Hospital. In 1584 it became the church of Protestant refugees from the Southern Netherlands (Brugge) and France. Later churches in the centre include the St. Joseph in expressionistic style.

University buildings

 
The 1860 Leiden Observatory, after restoration (2013)

The city centre contains many buildings that are in use by the University of Leiden. The Academy Building is housed in a former 16th-century convent. Among the institutions connected with the university are the national institution for East Indian languages, ethnology and geography; the botanical gardens, founded in 1587; the observatory (1860); the museum of antiquities (Rijksmuseum van Oudheden); and the ethnographical museum, of which P. F. von Siebold's Japanese collection was the nucleus (Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde). This collection is now housed in a separate museum called the SieboldHuis. The Bibliotheca Thysiana occupies an old Renaissance building of the year 1655. It is especially rich in legal works and vernacular chronicles. Noteworthy are also the many special collections at Leiden University Library among which those of the Society of Dutch Literature (1766) and the collection of casts and engravings. In recent years the university has built the Leiden Bio Science Park at the city's outskirts to accommodate the Science departments.[citation needed]

 
De Waag (1900)

Other buildings

  • Stadhuis (City Hall), a 16th-century building that was badly damaged by a fire in 1929 but has its Renaissance façade designed by Lieven de Key still standing
  • Gemeenlandshuis van Rijnland (1596, restored in 1878)
  • De Waag (weigh house in Dutch), built by Pieter Post
  • Gravensteen – a former 15th century jail at the Gerecht square (former court-house)
  • Stedelijk Gymnasium (aka Latijnse School) – the old gymnasium (1599)
  • Stadstimmerwerf – the city carpenter's yard and wharf (1612), both built by Lieven de Key (c. 1560–1627)
  • Heilige Geest Weeshuis (a former Holy Spirit Orphanage) – a complex of 16th century buildings.
  • Molen de Valk – a corn-grinding windmill, now home to a museum (1743)
  • Pesthuis, which was built during 1657–1661 at that time just outside the city for curing patients suffering the bubonic plague. However, after it was built the feared disease did not occur in the Netherlands anymore so it was never used for its original purpose. The building has been used as a military hospital, prison, national asylum and army museum. Until 2019, it served as the entrance of Naturalis. This museum, one of the largest natural history museums in the world, was recently renovated and is a building of interest in itself.[29]

Culture

Museums

Public transport

 
Leiden, central railway station

Bus transport in Leiden is provided by Arriva.[30]

Railway stations within the municipality of Leiden are:

Notable inhabitants

The following is a selection of important Leidenaren throughout history:

 
William II, Count of Holland in the Lakenhal

Public officials and scholars

The arts

 
Rembrandt van Rijn, ca.1655
 
Willem van de Velde II, ca.1660)
 
Leoni Jansen, 2013

Science

 
Herman Boerhaave
 
Johannes Diderik van der Waals

Sport

 
Alfons Groenendijk, 2017
 
Kjeld Nuis, 2018
 
Buurtpoes Bledder

Others

International relations

Twin cities – sister cities

Leiden is twinned with:

Miscellaneous

 
Eastern gate 'Zijlpoort' at the Singel
 
The poem on Leiden's Stadhuis

Nae zWarte HVnger-noot
GebraCht had tot de doot
bInaest zes-dVIzent MensChen;
aLst god den heer Verdroot
gaf hI Vns Weder broot
zo VeeL WI CVnsten WensChen.

(Dutch: "When the Black Famine had brought to the death nearly six thousand persons, then God the Lord repented, and gave bread again as much as we could wish".)[69]

Sports

  • Zorg en Zekerheid Leiden is the basketball club of Leiden. In 2011, 2013 and 2021 they won the National Title, in 2010 and 2012 the National Cup and in 2011 and 2012 the National Super Cup. The club also played in the FIBA EuroChallenge and reached the Second Round (Best 16) in 2011/2012.

See also

References

Citations

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Sources

  • Lourens, Piet; Lucassen, Jan (1997). Inwonertallen van Nederlandse steden ca. 1300–1800. Amsterdam: NEHA. ISBN 9057420082.

Further reading

External links

  • Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Leiden" . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 16 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press.
  • Official website  
  • Scenic video 'Leiden Sleutelstad' ('Leiden, city of keys') (time lapse)

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Leyden redirects here For other uses see Leyden disambiguation Leiden Dutch ˈlɛide n listen in English and archaic Dutch also Leyden is a city and municipality in the province of South Holland Netherlands The municipality of Leiden has a population of 119 713 6 but the city forms one densely connected agglomeration with its suburbs Oegstgeest Leiderdorp Voorschoten and Zoeterwoude with 206 647 inhabitants The Netherlands Central Bureau of Statistics CBS further includes Katwijk in the agglomeration which makes the total population of the Leiden urban agglomeration 270 879 and in the larger Leiden urban area also Teylingen Noordwijk and Noordwijkerhout are included with in total 348 868 inhabitants Leiden is located on the Oude Rijn at a distance of some 20 km 12 mi from The Hague to its south and some 40 km 25 mi from Amsterdam to its north The recreational area of the Kaag Lakes Kagerplassen lies just to the northeast of Leiden LeidenCity and municipalityZijlpoort on the ZijlsingelFlagCoat of armsLocation in South HollandLeidenLocation within the NetherlandsShow map of NetherlandsLeidenLocation within EuropeShow map of EuropeCoordinates 52 10 N 4 29 E 52 16 N 4 49 E 52 16 4 49 Coordinates 52 10 N 4 29 E 52 16 N 4 49 E 52 16 4 49CountryNetherlandsProvinceSouth HollandGovernment 1 BodyMunicipal council MayorHenri Lenferink PvdA Area 2 Municipality23 27 km2 8 98 sq mi Land21 91 km2 8 46 sq mi Water1 36 km2 0 53 sq mi Elevation 3 0 m 0 ft Population Municipality January 2021 Urban and Metro May 2014 4 5 Municipality124 093 Density5 664 km2 14 670 sq mi Urban238 493 Metro344 299DemonymLeidenaarTime zoneUTC 1 CET Summer DST UTC 2 CEST Postcode2300 2334Area code071WebsiteOfficial websiteClick on the map for a fullscreen viewTopographic map of Leiden A university city since 1575 Leiden has been one of Europe s most prominent scientific centres for more than four centuries Leiden is a typical university city university buildings are scattered throughout the city and the many students from all over the world give the city a bustling vivid and international atmosphere Many important scientific discoveries have been made here giving rise to Leiden s motto City of Discoveries The city houses Leiden University the oldest university of the Netherlands and Leiden University Medical Center Leiden University is one of Europe s top universities with thirteen Nobel Prize winners It is a member of the League of European Research Universities and positioned highly in all international academic rankings It is twinned with Oxford the location of the United Kingdom s oldest university Leiden University and Leiden University of Applied Sciences Leidse Hogeschool together have around 35 000 students Modern scientific medical research and teaching started in the early 18th century in Leiden with Boerhaave Leiden is a city with a rich cultural heritage not only in science but also in the arts One of the world s most famous painters Rembrandt was born and educated in Leiden Other famous Leiden painters include Lucas van Leyden Jan van Goyen and Jan Steen Contents 1 History 1 1 Siege of 1420 1 2 16th to 18th centuries 1 3 19th and 20th centuries 1 4 Leiden today 2 Rivers canals and parks 3 Buildings of interest 3 1 Fortifications 3 2 Churches 3 3 University buildings 3 4 Other buildings 4 Culture 4 1 Museums 5 Public transport 6 Notable inhabitants 6 1 Public officials and scholars 6 2 The arts 6 3 Science 6 4 Sport 6 5 Others 7 International relations 7 1 Twin cities sister cities 8 Miscellaneous 9 Sports 10 See also 11 References 11 1 Citations 11 2 Sources 12 Further reading 13 External linksHistory EditSee also Timeline of Leiden Historical populationYearPop p a 13985 000 149711 000 0 80 151414 250 1 53 157412 456 0 22 158112 144 0 36 162244 745 3 23 163244 000 0 17 166567 000 1 28 173270 000 0 07 175038 105 3 32 179530 955 0 46 Source Lourens amp Lucassen 1997 pp 112 114Leiden was formed on an artificial hill today called the Burcht van Leiden at the confluence of the rivers Oude and Nieuwe Rijn Old and New Rhine In the oldest reference to this from circa 860 the settlement was called Leithon The name is said to be from Germanic leitha canal 7 in dative pluralis thus meaning at the canals Canal is actually not the completely proper word A leitha later lede was a human modified natural river partly natural partly artificial Leiden has in the past erroneously been associated with the Roman outpost Lugdunum Batavorum This particular castellum was thought to be located at the Burcht of Leiden and the city s name was thought to be derived from the Latin name Lugdunum However the castellum was in fact closer to the town of Katwijk whereas the Roman settlement near modern day Leiden was called Matilo 8 Windmill museum De Valk The landlord of Leiden situated in a stronghold on the hill motte was initially subject to the Bishop of Utrecht but around 1100 the burgraves became subject to the county of Holland This county got its name in 1101 from a domain near the stronghold Holtland or Holland Leiden was sacked in 1047 by Emperor Henry III Early 13th century Ada Countess of Holland took refuge here when she was fighting in a civil war against her uncle William I Count of Holland He besieged the stronghold and captured Ada Leiden received city rights in 1266 In 1389 its population had grown to about 4 000 persons Siege of 1420 Edit In 1420 during the Hook and Cod wars Duke John III of Bavaria along with his army marched from Gouda in the direction of Leiden in order to conquer the city since Leiden did not pay the new Count of Holland Jacqueline Countess of Hainaut his niece and only daughter of Count William VI of Holland Burgrave Filips of Wassenaar and the other local noblemen of the Hook faction assumed that the duke would besiege Leiden first and send small units out to conquer the surrounding citadels But John of Bavaria chose to attack the citadels first He rolled the cannons along with his army but one which was too heavy went by ship By firing at the walls and gates with iron balls the citadels fell one by one Within a week John of Bavaria conquered the castles of Poelgeest Ter Does Hoichmade de Zijl ter Waerd Warmond and de Paddenpoel On 24 June the army appeared before the walls of Leiden On 17 August 1420 after a two month siege the city surrendered to John of Bavaria The burgrave Filips of Wassenaar was stripped of his offices and rights and lived out his last years in captivity 16th to 18th centuries Edit Relief of Leiden 1574 painting by Otto van Veen Inundated meadows allow the Dutch fleet access to the Spanish infantry positions 17th century houses along the Herengracht Town hall and bridge de Koornbrug The 1852 Sijthoff printing office Leiden Leiden s west gate the Morspoort Leiden s east gate the Zijlpoort The Singel at night showing the chimney of the Light Factory Leiden flourished in the 16th and 17th century At the close of the 15th century the weaving establishments mainly broadcloth of Leiden were very important In the same period Leiden developed an important printing and publishing industry The influential printers Lucas van Leyden and Otto van Veen lived here and so did Christoffel Plantijn One of Christoffel s pupils was Lodewijk Elzevir 1547 1617 who established the largest bookshop and printing works in Leiden a business continued by his descendants through 1712 and the name subsequently adopted in a variant spelling by contemporary publisher Elsevier citation needed In 1572 the city sided with the Dutch revolt against Spanish rule and played an important role in the Eighty Years War Besieged from May until October 1574 by the Spanish Leiden was relieved by the cutting of the dikes thus enabling ships to carry provisions to the inhabitants of the flooded town As a reward for the heroic defence of the previous year the University of Leiden was founded by William I of Orange in 1575 Yearly on 3 October the end of the siege is still celebrated in Leiden Tradition tells that the citizens were offered the choice between a university and a certain exemption from taxes and chose the university The siege is notable also for being the first instance in Europe of the issuance of paper money with paper taken from prayer books being stamped using coin dies when silver ran out 9 Leiden is also known as the place where the Pilgrims as well as some of the first settlers of New Amsterdam 10 11 lived they operated a printing press 12 for a time in the early 17th century before their departure to Massachusetts and New Amsterdam in the New World 13 After the expulsion of the Spaniards Leiden cloth Leiden baize and Leiden camlet became familiar terms citation needed In the 17th century Leiden prospered in part because of the impetus to the textile industry by refugees from Flanders While the city had lost about a third of its 15 000 citizens during the siege of 1574 it quickly recovered to 45 000 inhabitants in 1622 and may have come near to 70 000 circa 1670 During the Dutch Golden Era Leiden was the second largest city of Holland after Amsterdam 14 Particularly due to the work by Herman Boerhaave 1668 1738 it played a crucial role in the establishment of modern chemistry and medicine From the late 17th century onwards Leiden slumped mainly due to the decline of the cloth industries In the beginning of the 19th century the baize manufacture was altogether given up although industry remained central to Leiden economy This decline is painted vividly by the fall in population The population of Leiden had sunk to 30 000 between 1796 and 1811 and in 1904 was 56 044 15 From the 17th to the early 19th century Leiden was the publishing place of one of the most important contemporary journals Nouvelles Extraordinaires de Divers Endroits known also as Gazette de Leyde 16 19th and 20th centuries Edit On 12 January 1807 a catastrophe struck the city when a boat loaded with 17 400 kg 38 360 lb of gunpowder blew up in the middle of Leiden 151 people were killed over 2 000 were injured and some 220 homes were destroyed King Louis Bonaparte personally visited the city to provide assistance to the victims Although located in the centre of the city the area destroyed remained empty for many years In 1886 the space was turned into a public park the Van der Werff park 17 In 1842 the railroad from Leiden to Haarlem was inaugurated and one year later the railway to The Hague Den Haag was completed resulting in some social and economic improvement Perhaps the most important piece of Dutch history contributed by Leiden was the Constitution of the Netherlands Johan Rudolf Thorbecke 1798 1872 wrote the Dutch Constitution in April 1848 in his house at Garenmarkt 9 in Leiden Leiden s reputation as the city of books continued through the 19th century with the establishment of publishing dynasties by Evert Jan Brill and Albertus Willem Sijthoff 18 Sijthoff who rose to prominence in the trade of translated books wrote a letter in 1899 to Queen Wilhelmina regarding his opposition to becoming a signatory to the Berne Convention for the Protection of Literary and Artistic Works He felt that international copyright restrictions would stifle the Dutch publishing industry 19 Leiden grew twelve fold in size between 1896 and 1981 annexing land from neighboring municipalities Leiden began to expand beyond its 17th century moats around 1896 and the number of citizens surpassed 50 000 in 1900 After 1920 new industries were established in the city such as the canning and metal industries During World War II Leiden was hit hard by Allied bombardments The areas surrounding the railway station and Marewijk were almost completely destroyed The University of Leiden is famous for its many discoveries including Snell s law by Willebrord Snellius and the famous Leyden jar a capacitor made from a glass jar invented in Leiden by Pieter van Musschenbroek in 1746 Another development was in cryogenics Heike Kamerlingh Onnes 1913 Nobel prize winner in physics liquefied helium for the first time 1908 and later managed to reach a temperature of less than one degree above the absolute minimum Albert Einstein also spent some time at Leiden University during his early to middle career Leiden today Edit The city s biggest and most popular annual festival is celebrated on 3 October and is called simply 3 Oktober The people of Leiden celebrate the end of the Spanish siege of 1574 20 It typically takes place over the course of two to three days and includes parades a hutspot feast historical reenactments a funfair and other events Since 2006 the city has also hosted the annual Leiden International Film Festival 21 Leiden has important functions as a shopping and trade centre for communities around the city The city also houses the Eurotransplant the international organization responsible for the mediation and allocation of organ donation procedures in Austria Belgium Croatia Germany Luxembourg the Netherlands and Slovenia Leiden also houses the headquarters of Airbus a global pan European aerospace and defence corporation and a leading defence and military contractor worldwide The group includes Airbus the leading manufacturer of commercial aircraft worldwide Rivers canals and parks Edit Canal near Leiden May 1978 The two branches of the Oude Rijn which enter Leiden on the east unite in the centre of the city The city is further intersected by numerous small canals with tree bordered quays On the west side of the city the Hortus Botanicus and other gardens extend along the old Singel or outer canal The Leidse Hout park which contains a small deer park lies on the northwest border with Oegstgeest The Van der Werf Park is named after the mayor Pieter Adriaansz van der Werff nl who defended the city against the Spaniards in 1574 The city was beleaguered for months and many died from famine The open space for the park was formed by the accidental explosion of a ship loaded with gunpowder in 1807 which destroyed hundreds of houses including that of the Elsevier family of printers Buildings of interest EditBecause of the economic decline from the end of the 17th until the middle of the 19th century much of the 16th and 17th century city centre is still intact It is the second largest 17th century town centre in the Netherlands the largest being Amsterdam s city centre A hundred buildings in the centre are decorated with large murals of poetry part of a wall poem project active from 1992 and still ongoing 22 23 Shakespeare on a Leiden wall Langston Hughes on a Leiden wall e e cummings Waring CuneyFortifications Edit This section does not cite any sources Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources Unsourced material may be challenged and removed May 2011 Learn how and when to remove this template message At the strategically important junction of the two arms of the Oude Rijn stands the old castle de Burcht a circular tower built on an earthen mound The mound probably was a refuge against high water before a small wooden fortress was built on top of it in the 11th century The citadel is a so called motte and bailey castle 24 Of Leiden s old city gates only two are left the Zijlpoort and the Morspoort 25 both dating from the end of the 17th century Apart from one small watch tower on the Singel nothing is left of the town s city walls Another former fortification is the Gravensteen Built as a fortress in the 13th century it has since served as house library and prison 26 Presently it is one of the university s buildings Churches Edit Hooglandse Kerk Leiden Sint Lodewijkskerk The chief of Leiden s numerous churches are the Hooglandse Kerk or the church of St Pancras built in the 15th century and containing a monument to Pieter Adriaansz van der Werff and the Pieterskerk church of St Peter 1315 with monuments to Scaliger Boerhaave and other famous scholars From a historical perspective the Marekerk is interesting too Arent van s Gravesande designed that church in 1639 Other fine examples of his work in Leiden are in the Stedelijk Museum De Lakenhal the municipal museum of fine arts and the Bibliotheca Thysiana The growing city needed another church and the Marekerk was the first Protestant church to be built in Leiden and in Holland after the Reformation It is an example of Dutch Classicism In the drawings by Van s Gravesande the pulpit is the centrepiece of the church The pulpit is modelled after the one in the Nieuwe Kerk at Haarlem designed by Jacob van Campen The building was first used in 1650 and is still in use The Heilige Lodewijkkerk is first catholic church in Leiden that was built after the Reformation This church was given to the Catholics after the gunpowder explosion in 1807 which killed 150 inhabitants and destroyed a large part of the city centre 27 28 The Waalse Kerk Breestraat 63 was originally part of the Katharina Hospital In 1584 it became the church of Protestant refugees from the Southern Netherlands Brugge and France Later churches in the centre include the St Joseph in expressionistic style University buildings Edit The 1860 Leiden Observatory after restoration 2013 The city centre contains many buildings that are in use by the University of Leiden The Academy Building is housed in a former 16th century convent Among the institutions connected with the university are the national institution for East Indian languages ethnology and geography the botanical gardens founded in 1587 the observatory 1860 the museum of antiquities Rijksmuseum van Oudheden and the ethnographical museum of which P F von Siebold s Japanese collection was the nucleus Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde This collection is now housed in a separate museum called the SieboldHuis The Bibliotheca Thysiana occupies an old Renaissance building of the year 1655 It is especially rich in legal works and vernacular chronicles Noteworthy are also the many special collections at Leiden University Library among which those of the Society of Dutch Literature 1766 and the collection of casts and engravings In recent years the university has built the Leiden Bio Science Park at the city s outskirts to accommodate the Science departments citation needed De Waag 1900 Other buildings Edit Stadhuis City Hall a 16th century building that was badly damaged by a fire in 1929 but has its Renaissance facade designed by Lieven de Key still standing Gemeenlandshuis van Rijnland 1596 restored in 1878 De Waag weigh house in Dutch built by Pieter Post Gravensteen a former 15th century jail at the Gerecht square former court house Stedelijk Gymnasium aka Latijnse School the old gymnasium 1599 Stadstimmerwerf the city carpenter s yard and wharf 1612 both built by Lieven de Key c 1560 1627 Heilige Geest Weeshuis a former Holy Spirit Orphanage a complex of 16th century buildings Molen de Valk a corn grinding windmill now home to a museum 1743 Pesthuis which was built during 1657 1661 at that time just outside the city for curing patients suffering the bubonic plague However after it was built the feared disease did not occur in the Netherlands anymore so it was never used for its original purpose The building has been used as a military hospital prison national asylum and army museum Until 2019 it served as the entrance of Naturalis This museum one of the largest natural history museums in the world was recently renovated and is a building of interest in itself 29 Culture EditMuseums Edit Rijksmuseum van Oudheden National Museum of Antiquities Museum Volkenkunde National Museum of Ethnology Naturalis Biodiversity Center Rijksmuseum Boerhaave Stedelijk Museum de Lakenhal Japan Museum Sieboldhuis Museum de Valk Leiden American Pilgrim Museum Corpus in Oegstgeest but almost directly next to the border with Leiden Hortus Botanicus Leiden Museum Het Leids Weverhuis Young Rembrandt Studio Erfgoed Leiden en Omstreken Anatomisch Museum LeidenPublic transport Edit Leiden central railway station Bus transport in Leiden is provided by Arriva 30 Railway stations within the municipality of Leiden are Leiden Centraal Leiden Lammenschans De VinkNotable inhabitants EditSee also Category People from Leiden The following is a selection of important Leidenaren throughout history William II Count of Holland in the Lakenhal Public officials and scholars Edit William II Count of Holland 1228 1256 Count of Holland 1234 1256 Floris V Count of Holland 1254 1296 Count of Holland and Zeeland 1256 1296 John of Leiden 1509 1536 leader of the Anabaptist Munster Rebellion 31 William Brewster 1568 1644 pilgrim Mayflower passenger in 1620 32 Daniel Heinsius 1580 1655 a famous scholar of the Dutch Renaissance 33 William Bradford 1590 1657 pilgrim leader of the American Plymouth Colony in Massachusetts 34 Franciscus Junius 1591 1677 a pioneer of Germanic philology 35 Isaac Elzevir 1596 1651 a Dutch publisher and printer co founder of House of Elzevir 36 Love Brewster 1611 1650 1 pilgrim and founder of Bridgewater Massachusetts Isaac Vossius 1618 1689 a scholar manuscript collector and Canon at Windsor Castle 37 Nicolaas Heinsius the Elder 1620 1681 a Dutch classical scholar and poet 38 Johann Bachstrom 1688 1742 writer scientist and Lutheran theologian Gottfried Freiherr van Swieten 1733 1803 diplomat friend and patron of several great composers Jan Bake 1787 1864 a Dutch philologist and critic 39 Reinhart Dozy 1820 1883 a Dutch scholar of Arabic of Huguenot origin 40 Cornelis Tiele 1830 1902 a Dutch theologian and scholar 41 J P B de Josselin de Jong 1886 1964 a museum curator founding father of modern Dutch anthropology and structural anthropology and an academic Hans de Koster 1914 1992 a Dutch politician diplomat and businessman twins Alfred Kossmann 1922 1998 a poet and prose writer amp Ernst Kossmann 1922 2003 an historian Leendert Ginjaar 1928 2003 a Dutch politician and chemist Laurens Jan Brinkhorst born 1937 a retired Dutch politician and diplomat Ankie Broekers Knol born 1946 a Dutch politician jurist and Minister Carel Stolker born 1954 rector magnificus and president of Leiden University from 2013 until 2021 Princess Laurentien of the Netherlands born 1966 the wife of Prince Constantijn Kajsa Ollongren born 1967 a Dutch Swedish politician Deputy Prime Minister of the Netherlands Julius Terpstra born 1989 a Dutch politicianThe arts Edit Rembrandt van Rijn ca 1655 Willem van de Velde II ca 1660 Leoni Jansen 2013 Cornelis Engebrechtsz ca 1462 1527 an early Dutch painter 42 Lucas van Leyden 1494 1533 a Dutch painter and printmaker in engraving and woodcut Jan van Goyen 1596 1656 a Dutch landscape painter 43 Justus van Egmont 1601 1674 a painter and tapestry designer Rembrandt van Rijn 1606 1669 a Dutch draughtsman painter and printmaker 44 Willem van de Velde the Elder 1610 11 1693 a Dutch Golden Age seascape painter 45 Frans Post 1612 1680 a Dutch Golden Age painter Gerard Dou 1613 1675 a Dutch Golden Age painter 46 Jan Steen ca 1626 1679 a Dutch Golden Age genre painter 47 Gabriel Metsu 1629 1667 painter of history paintings still life portraits and genre works 48 Willem van de Velde the Younger 1633 1707 a Dutch marine painter 49 Frans van Mieris the Elder 1635 1681 a Dutch Golden Age genre and portrait painter 50 Jan Gaykema Jacobsz 1798 1875 a Dutch painter draughtsman and botanical illustrator Jan Elias Kikkert 1843 1925 a Dutch lithographer and watercolorist of street scenes of Leiden Coenraad V Bos 1875 1955 a Dutch pianist an accompanist to singers of lieder Theo van Doesburg 1883 1931 a Dutch artist founder and leader of De Stijl Ernst Winar 1894 1978 a Dutch actor and film director 51 Nina Foch 1924 2008 a Dutch American actress and drama teacher 52 Michel Waisvisz 1949 2008 a Dutch composer performer inventor of experimental electronic musical instruments and artistic director of STEIM 1981 2008 Leoni Jansen born 1955 a TV personality and anchor woman singer and stage director 53 Daniel Reuss born 1961 a Dutch conductor primarily a choral conductor Isa Hoes born 1967 a Dutch actress and voice actress 54 Eva Dorrepaal born 1970 a Dutch actress 55 Armin van Buuren born 1976 a Dutch DJ record producer and remixer 56 Carice van Houten born 1976 a Dutch actress and singer 57 Dyro born 1992 a Dutch DJ and Electronic dance music producerScience Edit Herman Boerhaave Johannes Diderik van der Waals Rembert Dodoens 1517 1585 botanist died in Leiden Charles de L Ecluse 1526 1609 botanist horticulturist and director of Hortus Botanicus Leiden Ludolph van Ceulen 1540 1610 mathematician computed the number p pi Willebrord Snellius 1580 1626 a Dutch astronomer and mathematician 58 Herman Boerhaave 1668 1738 a botanist chemist Christian humanist and physician 59 Bernhard Siegfried Albinus 1697 1770 a German born Dutch anatomist 60 Gerard van Swieten 1700 1772 a Dutch physician personal physician of Maria Theresa Petrus Camper FRS 1722 1789 a Dutch physician anatomist physiologist midwife zoologist anthropologist palaeontologist and a naturalist 61 Philipp Franz von Siebold 1796 1866 a German physician and botanist studied Japanese flora and fauna 62 Johannes Diderik van der Waals 1837 1923 a Dutch theoretical physicist winner of the 1910 Nobel prize in Physics Hendrik Lorentz 1853 1928 a Dutch physicist joint winner of the 1902 Nobel Prize in Physics Heike Kamerlingh Onnes 1853 1926 a Dutch physicist and winner of the 1913 Nobel prize in Physics Willem Einthoven 1860 1927 a Dutch physician and physiologist Pieter Zeeman 1865 1943 a Dutch physicist joint winner of the 1902 Nobel Prize in Physics Willem de Sitter 1872 1934 a Dutch mathematician physicist and astronomer Albert Einstein 1879 1955 lecturer researcher at Leiden University variously between 1916 and 1930 Paul Ehrenfest 1880 1933 an Austrian Dutch theoretical physicist contributed to statistical mechanics Geertruida de Haas Lorentz 1885 1973 a female Dutch physicist worked on Brownian motion and electrical noise theory Jan Oort 1900 1992 a Dutch astronomer pioneer in radio astronomy Hendrik Casimir 1909 2000 a Dutch physicist Ewine van Dishoeck born 1955 a Dutch astronomer chemist molecular astrophysicist and academic Ariel Cabello 2014 Present Born in Argentina in 1980 Physicist amp Music Expert at Catawiki com 63 Sport Edit Alfons Groenendijk 2017 Kjeld Nuis 2018 Willem Slijkhuis 1923 2003 a Dutch middle distance runner won two bronze medals in the 1948 Summer Olympics Sandra Le Poole born 1959 a retired field hockey player team gold medallist at the 1984 Summer Olympics Ronald Florijn born 1961 a former rower twice team gold medallist at the 1988 and 1996 Summer Olympics Carina Benninga born 1962 amp Taco van den Honert born 1966 former Dutch field hockey players team gold medallist at the 1984 Summer Olympics and team bronze medallist at the 1988 Summer Olympics Alfons Groenendijk born 1964 a former footballer with 413 club caps and current manager Gerritjan Eggenkamp born 1975 a Dutch rower team silver medallist at the 2004 Summer Olympics Rodney Glunder born 1975 a retired kickboxer mixed martial artist professional wrestler and boxer Tim de Cler born 1978 a Dutch former footballer with 361 club caps Erik van den Doel born 1979 a Dutch chess Grandmaster Merel Witteveen born 1985 a sailor team silver medallist at the 2008 Summer Olympics Biurakn Hakhverdian born 1985 amp Iefke van Belkum born 1986 Dutch water polo players team gold medallist at the 2008 Summer Olympics Gegard Mousasi born 1985 a Dutch mixed martial artist and former kickboxer Laurine van Riessen born 1987 a long track speed skater and track cyclist bronze medallist at the 2010 Winter Olympics Kjeld Nuis born 1989 a Dutch speed skater world record holder and gold medallist at the 2018 Winter Olympics over 1000 metre and 1500 metre Buurtpoes Bledder Chantal de Ridder born 1989 a Dutch football striker 46 caps with the Netherlands women s national football team Esmee Visser born 1996 a long distance speed skater gold medallist in the 2018 Winter Olympics in the women s 5000 metresOthers Edit Maria Swanenburg 1839 1915 a Dutch serial killer murdered at least 27 people and suspected of killing more than 90 Aemilianus van Heel 1907 1938 a Franciscan friar who served as a missionary in China Marinus van der Lubbe 1909 1934 executed for the Reichstag fire in Berlin in 1933 Buurtpoes Bledder 2011 2013 a male domestic cat media star for his exploits in the city 64 Kirtie Ramdas born 1980 Dutch television presenter and actressInternational relations EditTwin cities sister cities Edit Leiden is twinned with Buffalo City Eastern Cape South Africa Juigalpa Chontales Nicaragua Krefeld North Rhine Westphalia Germany Nagasaki Japan Oxford United Kingdom 65 Torun Poland 66 Miscellaneous Edit Eastern gate Zijlpoort at the Singel The coat of arms of Leiden is two red keys crossed in an X shape on a white background These keys are the Keys of Heaven held by St Peter for whom a large church in the city centre is named Because of this coat of arms Leiden is referred to as the Sleutelstad the key city 67 For a time Leiden held the title The Coldest Place on Earth because of the developments in cryogenics in a laboratory there Heike Kamerlingh Onnes 1913 Nobel prize winner in physics liquefied helium for the first time 1908 and later managed to reach a temperature of less than one degree above Absolute zero The Norwegian cheese nokkelost key cheese is named after the keys in coat of arms of Leyden as it is a variation of Leyden cheese The following places and things are named after this city Leyden New York USA Leyden Massachusetts USA 68 Leyden Township Cook County Illinois USA Leiden scale for measuring extreme low temperatures Factor V Leiden is named after the city of Leiden where it was discovered in 1994 The Leyden jar a capacitor made from a glass jar was invented here by Pieter van Musschenbroek in 1746 It was actually first invented by Ewald Georg von Kleist the year before but the name Leyden jar stuck Leiden s Stadhuis Town Hall has a poem in the form of a cryptogram on its facade that records the date 1574 in Roman numerals the year of the Black Famine or Spanish siege W equals two Vs The poem on Leiden s Stadhuis Nae zWarte HVnger noot GebraCht had tot de doot bInaest zes dVIzent MensChen aLst god den heer Verdroot gaf hI Vns Weder broot zo VeeL WI CVnsten WensChen Dutch When the Black Famine had brought to the death nearly six thousand persons then God the Lord repented and gave bread again as much as we could wish 69 Sports EditZorg en Zekerheid Leiden is the basketball club of Leiden In 2011 2013 and 2021 they won the National Title in 2010 and 2012 the National Cup and in 2011 and 2012 the National Super Cup The club also played in the FIBA EuroChallenge and reached the Second Round Best 16 in 2011 2012 See also Edit Geography portal Netherlands portalLeiden Classical A distributed computing project Oudt Leyden former Michelin starred restaurant Wireless 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Archived from the original on 5 February 2015 Retrieved 5 February 2015 Gannett Henry 1905 The Origin of Certain Place Names in the United States U S Government Printing Office p 186 Handbook to Holland 7th ed Ward Lock 1925 p 92 Sources Edit Lourens Piet Lucassen Jan 1997 Inwonertallen van Nederlandse steden ca 1300 1800 Amsterdam NEHA ISBN 9057420082 Further reading EditFurther information Bibliography of the history of LeidenExternal links Edit Wikimedia Commons has media related to Leiden Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Leiden Chisholm Hugh ed 1911 Leiden Encyclopaedia Britannica Vol 16 11th ed Cambridge University Press Official website Scenic video Leiden Sleutelstad Leiden city of keys time lapse Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Leiden amp oldid 1135299253, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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