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Wikipedia

Dior

January 31, 2023

This article is about the company. For the designer, see Christian Dior. For other uses, see Dior (disambiguation).

Christian Dior SE (French: [kʁistjɑ̃ djɔʁ]),[1] commonly known as Dior (stylized DIOR), is a European multinational luxury fashion house[2] controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH. Dior itself holds 42.36% shares and 59.01% of voting rights within LVMH.[7][8]

Christian Dior SE
Headquarters in Paris, France
TypePublic (Societas Europaea)[1]
ISINFR0000130403
IndustryLuxury goods
Founded16 December 1946; 76 years ago (1946-12-16)
FounderChristian Dior
Headquarters30 Avenue Montaigne
Paris, France[2]
Number of locations
210
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Bernard Arnault (chairman)
Antoine Arnault (vice-chairman & CEO)[3]
Maria Grazia Chiuri (creative director)
Kim Jones (creative director)[4]
ProductsClothing, cosmetics, fashion accessories, jewelry, perfumes, spirits, watches, wines
ServicesDepartment stores
Revenue €53.67 billion (2019)[5]
€11.43 billion (2019)[5]
€7.78 billion (2019)[5]
Total assets €93.83 billion (2019)[5]
Total equity €35.71 billion (2019)[5]
Number of employees
163,309 (2019)[5]
Divisions
Subsidiaries
  • Christian Dior Couture[6]
  • LVMH (42.36%)
Websitedior.com

The company was founded in 1946 by French fashion designer Christian Dior, who was originally from Normandy. This brand sells only shoes and clothing that can only be bought in Dior stores. Haute couture is under the Christian Dior Couture division. Pietro Beccari has been the CEO of Christian Dior Couture since 2018.[9]

History

Founding

The House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946[10][6] at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris. However, the current Dior corporation celebrates "1947" as the opening year.[6] Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac.[6][11] Boussac had originally invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston, but Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand.[12] The new couture house became a part of "a vertically integrated textile business" already operated by Boussac.[11] Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees.[11] The company was really a vanity project for Boussac and was a "majorly owned affiliate of Boussac Saint-Freres S.A. Nevertheless, Dior was allowed a then-unusual great part in his namesake label (legal leadership, a non-controlling stake in the firm, and one-third of pretax profits) despite Boussac's reputation as a "control freak". Dior's creativity also negotiated him a good salary.[11]

"New Look"

 
"Bar" suit, 1947, displayed in Moscow, 2011

On 12 February 1947, Christian Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring–Summer 1947. The show of "90 models of his first collection on six mannequins" was presented in the salons of the company's headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne.[6] Originally, the two lines were named "Corolle" and "Huit".[6] However, the new collection went down in fashion history as the "New Look" after the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar Carmel Snow exclaimed, "It's such a new look!"[6][11] The New Look was a revolutionary era for women at the end of the 1940s.[13] When the collection was presented, the editor in chief also showed appreciation by saying; "It's quite a revolution, dear Christian!"[13] The debut collection of Christian Dior is credited with having revived the fashion industry of France.[14] Along with that, the New Look brought back the spirit of haute couture in France as it was considered glamorous and young-looking.[15] "We were witness to a revolution in fashion and to a revolution in showing fashion as well."[16] The silhouette was characterized by a small, nipped-in waist and a full skirt falling below mid-calf length, which emphasized the bust and hips, as epitomized by the 'Bar' suit from the first collection.[17][18] The collection overall showcased more stereotypically feminine designs in contrast to the popular fashions of wartime, with full skirts, tight waists, and soft shoulders. Dior retained some of the masculine aspects as they continued to hold popularity through the early 1940s, but he also wanted to include more feminine style.[19]

The New Look became extremely popular, its full-skirted silhouette influencing other fashion designers well into the 1950s, and Dior gained a number of prominent clients from Hollywood, the United States, and the European aristocracy. As a result, Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after World War II, regained its preeminence.[20][21] The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as a refreshing antidote to the austerity of wartime and de-feminizing uniforms, and was embraced by stylish women such as Princess Margaret in the UK.[citation needed] According to Harold Koda, Dior credited Charles James with inspiring The New Look.[22] Dior's designs from the "New Look" did not only affect the designers in the 1950s, but also more recent designers in the 2000s, including Thom Browne, Miuccia Prada, and Vivienne Westwood. Dior's evening dresses from that time are still referred to by many designers, and they have been seen in different wedding themed catwalks with multiple layers of fabric building up below the small waist (Jojo, 2011). Examples include Vivienne Westwood's Ready-to-Wear Fall/Winter 2011 and Alexander McQueen's Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2011 (Jojo, 2011).[citation needed]

Not everyone was pleased with the New Look, however. Some considered the amount of material to be wasteful, especially after years of cloth rationing.[23] Feminists in particular were outraged, feeling that these corseted designs were restrictive and regressive, and that they took away a woman's independence.[24] There were several protest groups against the designs including, the League of Broke Husbands, made up of 30,000 men who were against the costs associated with the amount of fabric needed for such designs. Fellow designer Coco Chanel remarked, "Only a man who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable."[21] Despite such protests, the New Look was highly influential, continuing to inform the work of other designers and fashion well into the 21st century.[14] For the 60th anniversary of the New Look in 2007, John Galliano revisited it for his Spring-Summer collection for Dior.[25] Galliano used the wasp waist and rounded shoulders, modernised and updated with references to origami and other Japanese influences.[25] In 2012 Raf Simons revisited the New Look for his debut haute couture collection for Dior, wishing to update its ideas for the 21st century in a minimalist but also sensual and sexy manner.[14][26] Simons's work for Dior retained the luxurious fabrics and silhouette, but encouraged self-respect for the woman's body and liberation of expression.[26] The design process for this collection, which was produced in only eight weeks, is documented in Dior and I, presenting Simons's use of technology and modernist re-interpretations.[27]

Dior

 
Dior's NYC Store (2019)

Available references contradict themselves whether Christian Dior Parfums was established in 1947 or 1948. The Dior corporation itself lists the founding of Christian Dior Parfums as 1947, with the launch of its first perfume, Miss Dior.[6] Dior revolutionized the perfumery industry with the launch of the highly popular Miss Dior parfum, which was named after Catherine Dior (Christian Dior's sister).[6] Christian Dior Ltd owned 25%, manager of Coty perfumes held 35%, and Boussac owned 40% of the perfume business, headed by Serge Heftler Louiche.[6] Pierre Cardin was made head of the Dior workshop from 1947 until 1950. In 1948, a New York City Christian Dior Parfums branch was established—this could be the cause of establishment-date issue.[6] The modern Dior corporation also notes that "a luxury ready-to-wear house is established in New York at the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street, the first of its kind," in 1948.[6] In 1949, the "Diorama" perfume is released and[6] by 1949, the New Look line alone made a profit FFr 12.7 million.[11]

Expansion, and death of Christian Dior

 
Eva Perón, the First Lady of Argentina and one of Dior's muses, wears a custom evening gown at the Teatro Colón, 1949.

Expansion from France began by the end of 1949 with the opening of a Christian Dior boutique in New York City. By the end of the year, Dior fashions made up 75% of Paris's fashion exports and 5% of France's total export revenue.[11]

In 1949, Douglas Cox from Melbourne, Australia, travelled to Paris to meet with Christian Dior to discuss the possibility of having Dior pieces made for the Australian market. Christian Dior and Douglas Cox signed a contract for Dior to produce original designs and for Douglas Cox to create them in his Flinders Lane workshop.[28] A young Jill Walker, still in her mid teens, was one of the many workers for Douglas Cox, a couture label now in the headlines in Australian newspapers almost daily. Jill would go onto forming a couture legacy in Melbourne with popular labels such as Jinoel and Marti with husband Noel Kemelfield.[29] The agreement between Dior and Douglas Cox really put Australian dressmaking on the global stage, yet ultimately the 60 Dior models proved to be too avant-garde for the conservative Australian taste. Douglas Cox was unable to continue the contract beyond the single 1949 season making these Dior-Cox couture pieces some of the most rare collectors items in Australian couture.[30]

In 1950, Jacques Rouët, the general manager of Dior Ltd, devised a licensing program to place the now-renowned name of "Christian Dior" visibly on a variety of luxury goods.[11] It was placed first on neckties[6] and soon was applied to hosiery, furs, hats, gloves, handbags, jewelry, lingerie, and scarves.[11] Members of the French Chamber of Couture denounced it as a degrading action for the haute-couture image. Nevertheless, licensing became a profitable move and began a trend to continue "for decades to come",[11] which all couture houses followed.[6]

Also in 1950, Christian Dior was the exclusive designer of Marlene Dietrich's dresses in the Alfred Hitchcock film Stage Fright. In 1951, Dior released his first book, Je Suis Couturier (I am a Couturier) through publishers Editions du Conquistador. Despite the company's strong European following, more than half of its revenue was generated in the United States by this time.[11] Christian Dior Models Limited was created in London in 1952.[6] An agreement was made between the Sydney label House of Youth for Christian Dior New York models.[6] Los Gobelinos in Santiago, Chile, made an agreement with Dior for Christian Dior Paris Haute Couture.[6] The first Dior shoe line was launched in 1953 with the aid of Roger Vivier. The company operated firmly established locations in Mexico, Cuba, Canada, and Italy by the end of 1953.[11] As popularity of Dior goods grew, so did counterfeiting.[11] This illegal business was supported by women who could not afford the luxury goods.

By the mid-1950s, the House of Dior operated a well-respected fashion empire.[11] The first Dior boutique was established in 1954 at 9 Counduit Street. In honour of Princess Margaret and the Duchess of Marlborough, a Dior fashion show was held at the Blenheim Palace in 1954 as well. Christian Dior launched more highly successful fashion lines between the years of 1954 and 1957.[11] However, none came as close to the profound effect of the New Look.[11] Dior opened the Grande Boutique on the corner between Avenue Montaigne and Rue François Ier in 1955.[6] The first Dior lipstick was also released in 1955.[6] 100,000 garments had been sold by the time of the company's 10th anniversary in 1956.[11] Actress Ava Gardner had 14 dresses created for her in 1956 by Christian Dior for the Mark Robson film The Little Hut.

Christian Dior appeared on the cover of TIME dated 4 March 1957. The designer soon afterwards died from a third heart attack on 24 October 1957.[6][11] The captivating impact of Dior's creative fashion genius earned him recognition as one of history's greatest fashion figures.[11] Kevin Almond for Contemporary Fashion wrote that "by the time Dior died his name had become synonymous with taste and luxury."[11]

Dior without Christian Dior: 1957 through the 1970s

The death of the head designer left the House of Dior in chaos, and general manager Jacques Rouët considered shutting down operation worldwide. This possibility was not received graciously by Dior licensees and the French fashion industry; the Maison Dior was too important to the financial stability of the industry to allow such an action. To bring the label back on its feet, Rouët promoted the 21-year-old Yves Saint-Laurent to Artistic Director the same year.[11] Laurent had joined the House's family in 1955 after being picked out by the original designer himself for the position of the first ever and only Head Assistant.[6][11] Laurent initially proved to have been the most appropriate choice after the debut of his first collection for Dior (the mention of Dior from this moment on refers to the company) in 1958.[11] The clothes were as meticulously made and perfectly proportioned as Dior's in the same exquisite fabrics, but their young designer made them softer, lighter and easier to wear. Saint Laurent was hailed as a national hero. Emboldened by his success, his designs became more daring, culminating in the 1960 Beat Look inspired by the existentialists in the Saint-Germain des Près cafés and jazz clubs. His 1960 bohemian look was harshly criticized, and even more in Women's Wear Daily.[11] Marcel Boussac was furious, and in the spring, when Saint Laurent was called up to join the French army—which forced him to leave the House of Dior—the Dior management raised no objection. Saint-Laurent left after the completion of six Dior collections.[6]

 
Christian Dior Haute Couture suit designed by Marc Bohan, spring/summer 1973.
Adnan Ege Kutay Collection

Laurent was replaced at Dior by designer Marc Bohan in late 1960. Bohan instilled his conservative style on the collections. He was credited by Rebecca Arnold as the man who kept the Dior label "at the forefront of fashion while still producing wearable, elegant clothes," and Women's Wear Daily, not surprisingly, claimed that he "rescued the firm."[11] Bohan's designs were very well esteemed by prominent social figures. Actress Elizabeth Taylor ordered twelve Dior dresses from Bohan's Spring-Summer 1961 collection featuring the "Slim Look". The Dior perfume "Diorling" was released in 1963 and the men's fragrance "Eau Sauvage" was released in 1966.[6] Bohan's assistant Philippe Guibourgé launches the first French ready-to-wear collection "Miss Dior" in 1967. This is not to be confused with the already existing New York Ready-to-Wear store established in 1948. Designed by Bohan, "Baby Dior" opens its first boutique in 1967 at 28 Avenue Montaigne. The Christian Dior Coordinated Knit line is released in 1968 and management of the Fashion Furs Department of Christian Dior is taken by Frédéric Castet.[6] This year as well, Dior Parfums was sold to Moët-Hennessy (which would itself become LVMH) due to Boussac's ailing textile company (the still-owner of Dior).[6][11] This, however, had no effect on the House of Dior operations, and so the Christian Dior Cosmetics business was born in 1969 with the creation of an exclusive line.

Following this, Bohan launched the first Christian Dior Homme clothing line in 1970. A new Dior boutique at Parly II was decorated by Gae Aulenti and the "Diorella" perfume was released in 1972. Christian Dior Ready-to-Wear Fur Collection was created in France in 1973, and then manufactured under license in the United States, Canada, and Japan.[6] The first Dior watch "Black Moon" was released in 1975 in collaboration with licensee Benedom. Dior haute-couture graced the bodies of Princess Grace of Monaco, Nicaraguan First Lady Hope Portocarrero, Princess Alexandra of Yugoslavia, and Lady Pamela Hicks (Lord Mountbatten of Burma's younger daughter) for the wedding of The Prince of Wales and Lady Diana Spencer. In 1978, the Boussac Group filed for bankruptcy and so its assets (including those of Christian Dior) were purchased by the Willot Group under the permission of the Paris Trade Court.[6] The perfume "Dioressence" was released in 1979.[6]

Arrival of businessman Arnault

 
A simple Dior Haute Couture evening gown designed by Marc Bohan, from the Spring 1983 collection

In 1980, Dior released the men's fragrance "Jules".[6] After the Willot Group went into bankruptcy in 1981, Bernard Arnault and his investment group purchased it for "one symbolic franc" in December 1984.[6][11] The Dior perfume "Poison" was launched in 1985. That same year, Arnault became chairman, chief executive officer, and managing director of the company.[6] On assuming leadership, Arnault did away with the company's mediocre textile operations, to focus on the Bon Marché department store and Christian Dior Couture. Operations for Christian Dior drastically changed for the better under Arnault. He repositioned it as the holding company Christian Dior S.A. of the Dior Couture fashion business.[11] On the 40th anniversary of Dior's first collection, the Paris Fashion Museum dedicated an exhibition to Christian Dior.[6] In 1988, Arnault's Christian Dior S.A.'s took a 32% equity stake into the share capital of Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton through its subsidiary Jacques Rober, creating what would become one of the leading and most influential luxury goods companies in the world. Under this milestone merger, the operations of Christian Dior Couture and Christian Dior Parfums were once again united. Italian-born Gianfranco Ferré replaced Bohan as head designer in 1989.[11] The first such non-Frenchman, Ferré left behind traditional Dior associations of flirtation and romance, and introduced concepts and a style described as "refined, sober and strict."[11] Ferré headed design for Haute Couture, Haute Fourrure, Women's Ready-to-Wear, Ready-to-Wear Furs and Women's Accessories collections. His first collection was awarded the Dé d'Or in 1989.[6] That year, a boutique was opened in Hawaii and the LVMH stake by Jacques Rober rose to 44%.[6]

Further Dior boutiques were opened in 1990 in upscale New York City, Los Angeles, and Tokyo shopping districts. The stake in LVMH rose again, to 46%.[6] Another collection of watches named "Bagheera" – inspired by the round design of the "Black Moon" watches – was also released in 1990. Having fired the company's managing executive Beatrice Bongbault in December 1990, Arnault took up that position until September 1991, when he placed former Bon Marché president Phillipe Vindry at the post.[11] In 1991, Christian Dior was listed on the spot market and then on the Paris Stock Exchange's monthly settlement market, and the perfume "Dune" was launched.[6] Vindry dropped ready-to-wear prices by 10%. Still, a wool suit from Dior would come with a price label of USD 1,500.[11] 1990 revenue for Dior was USD 129.3 million, with a net income of $22 million.[11] Dior was now reorganized into three categories: 1) women's ready-to-wear, lingerie, and children's wear 2) accessories and jewelry 3) menswear. Licensees and franchised boutiques were starting to be reduced, to increase the company's control over brand product. Licensing was in fact reduced by nearly half because Arnault and Vindry opted "for quality and exclusivity over quantity and accessibility."[11] Wholly company-owned boutiques now opened in Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Cannes, and Waikiki, adding to its core stores located in New York City, Hawaii, Paris and Geneva. This held a potential to increase direct sales and profit margins while maintaining high-profile locations."[11] In 1992, Dior Homme was placed under the artistic direction of Patrick Lavoix, and the "Miss Dior" perfume was relaunched.[6] Francois Baufume succeeded Vindry in 1993 and continued to reduce licenses of the Dior name.[11]

 
Leather gloves by Christian Dior

The production of Dior Haute Couture was spun off into a subsidiary named Christian Dior Couture in 1995.[6] Also, the "La Parisienne" watch model was released – embodied in the watch "Parisian Chic". By that year, revenue for the label rose to USD 177 million, with a net income of USD 26.9 million.[11] Under the influence of Anna Wintour, editor and chief of Vogue, CEO Arnault appointed British designer John Galliano to replace Gianfranco Ferré in 1997 (Galliano on CBS News: "without Anna Wintour I would certainly not be at the house of Dior").[6][31] This choice of a British designer, once again instead of a French one, is said to have "ruffled some French feathers". Arnault himself stated that he "would have preferred a Frenchman", but that "talent has no nationality".[11] He even compared Galliano to Christian Dior himself, noting that "Galliano has a creative talent very close to that of Christian Dior. He has the same extraordinary mixture of romanticism, feminism, and modernity that symbolised Monsieur Dior. In all of his creations – his suits, his dresses – one finds similarities to the Dior style."[11] Galliano sparked further interest in Dior with somewhat controversial fashion shows, such as "Homeless Show" (models dressed in newspapers and paper bags) or "S&M Show".[11] Meanwhile, Dior licenses were being reduced further by new president and CEO Sidney Toledano.[11] On 15 October 1997, the Dior headquarters store on Avenue Montaigne was reopened –it had been closed and remodeled by Peter Marino – in a celebrity-studded event including Nicole Kidman, Demi Moore and Jacques Chirac. That year, Christian Dior Couture also took over all thirteen boutique franchises from Japan's Kanebo.[6]

In May 1998, another Dior boutique was opened in Paris. This time the store opened its doors on the Left Bank, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Also this year, Victoire de Castellane became lead designer of Dior Fine Jewellery and the first Dior Fine Jewellery boutique opened in New York City. Paris itself would witness the opening of the first Parisian Dior Fine Jewellery boutique the following year, at 28 Avenue Montaigne.[6] The perfume "J'adore" was released in 1999,[6] and on 5 October 1999, Galliano released the Dior Spring-Summer 2000 ready-to-wear fashion show, debuting the new Saddle bag. In the same year, Dior's long watch partner Benedom joined the LVMH group. In 2000, Galliano's leadership was extended to Ready to wear, accessories, advertising and communications. The first campaign under his leadership was photographed by Nick Knight and featured two women simulating intercourse.

While other brands in the late 1990s, notably Gucci,[32] had resorted to porn chic as a mean to draw attention, Dior ads had such an impact that porn chic became a trend in most fashion ads. Galliano ignited the escalation of porno chic advertisements, which culminated with Ungaro's zoophilic ads,[33] shot by Mario Sorrenti, and Gucci's ads, which featured a model with pubic hair shaped like the signature Gucci logo. As a matter of fact, it is considered that Galliano had revolutionized Dior more through his advertising campaigns than through his designs.[34][35]

On 17 July 2000, Dior Homme lead designer Patrick Lavoix was replaced by Hedi Slimane. Notable Dior releases that year were watches such as the distinctive "Malice", which features bracelets made of "CD" links, as well as the "Riva". Hedi left Dior Homme in 2007 and replaced by Kris Van Assche.

21st century

In 2001, the Dior Homme boutique on 30 Avenue Montaigne reopened with a new "contemporary masculine concept" instilled by its designer Hedi Slimane. Slimane used this concept in the creation of his first Dior Homme collection.[6] Soon, Dior Homme gained prominent male clientele including Brad Pitt and Mick Jagger.[11]

John Galliano then began to release his own Dior watches in 2001, beginning with the "Chris 47 Aluminum" line, marking a new era in Dior watch design. Next, the "Malice" and "Riva" watches were redesigned with precious stones to create the "Malice Sparkling" and "Riva Sparkling" spin-off collections. Inspired by the Spring-Summer 2002 Ready-to-Wear collection, Dior released the "Dior 66" watch, breaking many feminine traditional expectations in design.

 
The Dior flagship boutique in the upscale Ginza shopping district of Tokyo. First opened in 2004.

The men's fragrance "Higher" was released in 2001, followed by the perfume "Addict" in 2002. The company then opened Milan's first Dior Homme boutique on 20 February 2002. By 2002, 130 locations were in full operation.[11] On 3 June 2002, Slimane was presented with the "International Designer of the Year" award by the CFDA. Until 2002, Kanebo was the Christian Dior ready-to-wear license holder in Japan and, when the license expired, Christian Dior was able to profitable directly sell its ready-to-wear and accessories in its own boutiques.[36] The "Chris 47 Steel" watch was released in 2003 as a cousin of the original "Chris 47 Aluminum". Bernard Arnault, Hélène Mercier-Arnault, and Sidney Toledano witnessed the opening of the Dior flagship boutique in the Omotesandō district of Tokyo on 7 December 2003. The second Dior flagship store was opened in the upscale Ginza shopping district of Tokyo in 2004.[6] An exclusive Dior Homme boutique was opened also that year in Paris on Rue Royale, and it presented the entire Dior Homme collection. A second Dior Fine Jewelry boutique in Paris was opened at 8 Place Vendôme.[6] A Christian Dior boutique was opened in Moscow after the company took control of licensed operations of its Moscow agent.[6]

The designer of Dior Fine Jewelry Victoire de Castellane launched her own watch named "Le D de Dior" (French: "The D of Dior"). signifying the entrance of Dior watches into its collection of fine Jewelry. This watch was designed for women but made use of many design features which are typically thought of as masculine. Slimane next released a watch for the Dior Homme collection called "Chiffre Rouge." This special watch included the signature look of Dior Homme: "Watch design and technology match each other inseparably, to create the perfect expression of Dior Homme's artistic excellence and to increase the watchmaking legitimacy of Dior timepieces." De Castellane then launched her second line of watches called "La Baby de Dior". The design for this line was meant to be more feminine with more of a "jewelry look."

 
Dior Omotesandō, 2007
 
Dior sign in the Debenhams store in Sutton, London, England

The "Miss Dior Chérie" perfume and the "Dior Homme" fragrance were released in 2005.[6] Galliano released his "Dior Christal" watches in which he combined steel and blue sapphires to create a "creative and innovative collection." Christian Dior S.A. then celebrated the 13th anniversary of Dior Watches in 2005, and, in April of that year, its "Chiffre Rouge" collection was recognized by the World Watches and Jewelry Show in Basel, Switzerland. Also in the year, the fashion house also celebrated the 100th anniversary of the birthday of designer Christian Dior.[6] An exhibition, "Christian Dior: Man of the Century," was held in the Dior Museum in Granville, Normandy.

In 2006, the Dior watch booth was dedicated to the Dior Canework. This pattern was made by designer Christian Dior and based on the Napoleon III chairs used in his fashion shows.

In 2007, Kris Van Assche was appointed as the new artistic director of Dior Homme. Van Assche presented his first collection later that year.[6] The 60th Anniversary of the founding of the Maison Dior was officially celebrated in 2007 as well.[6]

By February 2011, the House of Dior was in scandal after accusations of John Galliano making anti-Semitic remarks made international headlines: the company found itself in a "public relations nightmare."[37] Galliano was fired in March and the scheduled presentation of his Fall-Winter 2011/2012 ready-to-wear collection went ahead without him, amid the controversy, on 4 March.[38] Before the start of the show, chief executive Sydney Toledano gave a sentimental speech on the values of Christian Dior and alluded to the family's ties to The Holocaust.[39] The show closed with the staff of the atelier coming out to accept applause in the absence of their artistic director. (The previous January 2011 presentation of Spring-Summer 2011 haute-couture was the last appearance of Galliano on the Dior runway.) The company went on ahead and appointed Bill Gaytten as head designer interim in absence of artistic director.[40] Gaytten had worked under Galliano for Dior and for the John Galliano label. The first haute-couture collection (for the Fall-Winter 2011 season) under Gaytten's management was presented in July and was received with mainly negative reviews.[41][42] Meanwhile, speculation remained for months as it was unknown who would be selected to replace Galliano. During its 13-month period of having no artistic director, Dior began undergoing subtle changes in its designs as the influence of the theatrical and flamboyant Galliano faded. The all-new resigned dior.com was launched in late 2011.

There is a subtext to this New New Look that goes beyond respect for the house's esteemed founder. In one fell swoop, John Galliano has been all but removed from the Dior history books. By making a visual connection between his era and that of Christian Dior himself, Raf Simons has redrawn the line of succession. The unimpeachable codes of Dior are illustrated for a new generation; the bias-cut dresses and Kabuki styling of Galliano downgraded to a footnote.

—Critic surmising the meaning of Simons' premier collection for Dior[43]

On 23 January 2012, Gaytten presented his second haute-couture collection (for the Spring-Summer 2012 season) for Dior and it was much better received than his first collection.[44]

Belgian designer Raf Simons was announced, on 11 April 2012, as the new artistic director of Christian Dior. Simons was known for his minimalist designs,[43] and this contrasted against the dramatic previous designs of Dior under Galliano. Furthermore, Simons was seen to have emerged as a "dark horse" amid the names of other designers who were considered high contenders.[37] To emphasize the appropriate choice of Simons as the right designer, the company ostentatiously made comparisons between Simons and the original designer Christian Dior.[45] Reportedly, Bernard Arnault and fellow executives at Dior and LVMH were keen to move Dior from the Galliano years.[37] Simons spent much time in the Dior archives[46] and familiarizing himself with haute-couture (as he had no previous background in that niche of fashion).[37] Simons was then scheduled to debut his designs in July. Meanwhile, Gaytten's Spring-Summer 2012 haute-couture collection was presented as the first Dior haute-couture show ever to be held in China on 14 April in Shanghai;[47] and it was a mark of the company's devotion to its presence in the Chinese market.

 
Cosmetics counter at New Zealand department store Smith & Caughey's in Auckland, New Zealand

The show was the last presentation by Gaytten for Dior, and he remained as head designer for the John Galliano label.[48]

On 3 May, the Dior: Secret Garden – Versailles promotional film was launched.[49] It was highly buzzed about throughout various industry and social media sources as it was a display of Dior through its transition. Simons presented his first ever collection for the company – the Fall-Winter 2012 haute-couture collection – on 2 July. A major highlight of the fall-winter 2012 haute-couture shows,[37][46][50] the collection was called by the company as "the new couture" and made reference to the start of a new Dior through the work of Simons "wiping the [haute couture] slate clean and starting again from scratch."[51] The designer's collection "made more references to Mr Dior than to the house of Dior"[43] with pieces harkening back to themes Dior's post-WWII designs introduced to fashion.[37] Simons, who rarely makes himself available for interviews, gave an interview published by the company through its Dior Mag online feature.[52] While previous runway presentations under Galliano were held at the Musée Rodin, Simons' show was held at a private residence, near the Arc de Triomphe, with the address only disclosed to select top-clients, celebrities, journalists, and other personnel exclusively invited in a discreet affair.[53] High-profile figures in attendance included designers Azzedine Alaïa,[37][46] Pierre Cardin,[37][54] Alber Elbaz (Lanvin designer),[37][43][46] Diane von Fürstenberg,[37][43][54] Marc Jacobs,[37][43][54] Christopher Kane,[37][43] Olivier Theyskens,[46] Riccardo Tisci,[37][54] Donatella Versace;[37][43][46][54] and Princess Charlene of Monaco,[37] actresses Marion Cotillard,[37] Mélanie Laurent,[37] Jennifer Lawrence,[37] Sharon Stone; film producer Harvey Weinstein;[46] and Dior chairman Arnault with his daughter.[37] Live satellite feed of the show was provided on DiorMag online and Twitter was also implemented for real time communication.[53] By then, it was also known that the company had purchased the Parisian embroidery firm Maison Vermont sometime earlier in 2012.[43]

In March 2015 it was announced that Rihanna was chosen as the official spokeswoman for Dior; this makes her the first black woman to take the spokeswoman position at Dior.[55] In 2015, Israeli model Sofia Mechetner was chosen to be the new face of Dior.[56]

In 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri was named the women's artistic director for Dior.[57]

In April 2016 a new Dior flagship boutique opened in San Francisco, with a party hosted by Jaime King.[58]

In 2017, Dior renovated and expanded its Madrid store. The brand celebrated the opening of the new boutique in a masked ball attended by a number of Spanish celebrities like Alejandro Gómez Palomo.[59]

In March 2018, Kim Jones was named the men's artistic director for the house.[60] Under his management Dior has made several high profile streetwear collaborations. Jones first show for Dior featured American artist and designer Brian Donnelly aka KAWS. Thereafter followed collaborations with Raymond Pettibon, 1017 ALYX 9SM, Yoon Ahn, Hajime Sorayama, Daniel Arsham, Sacai and most recently Shawn Stussy, creator of the legendary streetwear brand Stüssy.[61]

In October 2019, Dior apologized to China for using a map of China that excluded Taiwan.[62]

On 11 March 2022, 30 Avenue Montaigne has once again opened its doors to the public.[63] The property was closed for two years for a major renovation led by architect Peter Marino.[63] Historically, 30 Avenue Montaigne is the place where Christian Dior showcased his first collection.[63]

In January 2023, it was announced Delphine Arnault would assume the role of chairperson and CEO, beginning in February.[64]

Celebrity ambassadors

Dior has created strong partnerships with Hollywood celebrities and social media influencers, working closely with these individuals to reach more demographics and re-establish its identity as a new, modern brand, despite the fact that it has been around for a while.[65] This has allowed the brand to portray a more populist image and attract a wider audience.[66] The brand has worked with and dressed contemporary style icons like Jennifer Lawrence and Lupita Nyong'o, who may resonate with millennials.[67] Dior has effectively implemented social media into their marketing communication strategy, in which images and videos from campaigns are shared on both the official Dior profile, and on the celebrity ambassadors' social media pages.

An example of this success is seen in the Secret Garden campaign featuring Rihanna.[68] In this campaign, Rihanna is seen dancing to a song from her album (Only If For a Night) through a hall of mirrors.[69] By being associated with Rihanna's song, the company created a sense of association with her brand, which was beneficial to the company as she was ranked as the most marketable celebrity in 2016.[70] Despite the reach not being completely suitable to the Dior target audience, collaborating with the likes of Rihanna allowed the company to engage with more of the market, as Rihanna's social media following is four times larger than that of the fashion house.[66]

Below are some of the celebrity ambassadors who have fronted Dior campaigns:

Fashion shows

Fashion show Date Models in order of appearance Soundtrack Theme Creative director
Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear 20 January 2020 Maria Grazia Chiuri
Pre-Fall 2020 11 December 2019
Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear 30 September 2016
Resort 2017 31 May 2016 Serge Ruffieux & Lucie Meier
Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear 4 March 2016
Spring 2003 Couture 19 January 2003 John Galliano
Spring 2001 Ready-to-Wear —
Fall 2000 Couture 28 July 2000
Fall 2000 Ready-to-Wear 28 February 2000
Spring 2000 Ready-to-Wear —
Fall 1999 Couture 19 July 1999
Spring 1998 Couture —

Financial data

Financial data in € millions[104]
Year 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Revenue 29.881 30.984 35.081 37.968 43.666
Net Income 3.926 3.883 6.165 4.164 5.753
Assets 55.555 61.161 60.030 62.904 72.762
Employees 2535 2780 3033 3100 3800

Criticism

2000s

In 2000, Galliano's collection inspired by homeless people drew criticism, but also attention, to the house of Dior.[105]

2010s

In early 2011, scandal arose when John Galliano was accused of making anti-semitic comments after drinking in Paris. Footage was released of the designer under the influence of alcohol saying "I love Hitler" and "People like you would be dead today. Your mothers, your forefathers would be fucking gassed and dead" to a non-Jewish woman.[106] In France, it is against the law to make anti-semitic remarks, and is punishable by up to six months in prison.[106] On 1 March 2011, Christian Dior officially announced that it had fired Galliano amidst the controversy.[107]

Plagiarism and cultural appropriation controversies

2017

In 2017, Dior was accused of cultural appropriation by directly plagiarizing a Bihor coat, a traditional Romanian vest, by using the same colour and patterns in its pre-fall collection; Dior had presented it as their original designs without giving any credit to the people of Bihor nor crediting the Romanian people as source of inspiration.[108][109] As a result, Romanian people were outraged and to fight against this cultural appropriation, a compaign was launched by Romanian fashion magazine Beau Monde who then recruited native craftsmen and fashion designers from Bihor to create a new line of fashion.[108] The cover of the Beau Monde magazine read:[109]

Don't let traditions go out of stock. Support the fashion from Bihor and buy authentic creations from Bihorcouture.com

— Beau Monde

Thus, the online platform named Bihor Couture was launched; Bihor Couture also publicly shamed Dior for "theft" and sold original artisan-made versions of the traditional Romanian vest.[108]

2022

Main article: Mamianqun: Dior controversy 2022

In April 2022, Dior released a new midi-skirt in Seoul, Dior's art director Maria Grazia Chiuri described the 2022 Fall collection design was inspired by school uniform (including pleated skirts), also in honour of Catherine Dior.[110] This new skirt was plain black wrap-around skirt which was made of two panels of fabric which was sewn to the waistband of the skirt; it featured four flat panels with no pleats (one at each side of each panel of fabric) and pleats; it was constructed in an overlapping fashion such that there was two overlapping flat surface at the back and front and side pleats when worn.[111][110] On its official website page, this skirt was described as "a hallmark Dior silhouette, the mid-length skirt is updated with a new elegant and modern variation [...]".[112]

 
Example of a midi-mamianqun designed by Chinese Hanfu fashion designers, a 21st century modified version of the Ming dynasty-style, modern, worn by a Hanfu enthusiast, photograph taken on the 29 March 2022

Three month later, this skirt was noticed by some Hanfu enthusiasts, who criticized it as being created by copying the mamianqun design.[113] They also indicated that this skirt have the exact same cut and construction as the mamianqun with only its length being the difference from the orthodox-style and historical mamianqun of the Ming dynasty (1368–1644 AD).[110][114] It was, however, noted by Chinese netizens that the 21st modified, modern version of the mamianqun, also included midi-mamianqun, had been designed in the past years by Chinese Hanfu designers.[115][114]

Dior decided to stop this sale in Mainland China to avoid controversy. On July 23, about 50 Chinese overseas students in Paris, France, made a protest in front of a Dior flagship store at the Champs-Élysée,[116][117] they used the slogan "Dior, Stop Cultural Appropriation" and "This is a traditional Chinese dress" written with a mixture of French and English;[118] they also called for other overseas students from the United Kingdom and the United States for relay, the Communist Youth League of China also expressed support for this protest.[119] There are also more than 10 Chinese democratic activists lifted banners writing "Skirt Rights Is Bigger Than Human Rights" etc. for anti-ptotest. And both sides started a conflict with each other. Chinese news media initially have no mention for anti-protest but focused on cultural embezzling accuse.[120] Chinese network also spread a theory that the democracy activists were composed by Taiwanese.[121]

Some French news media commented this was largely due to Dior does not describe its origin for sale with transparency, most criticize views argued that Dior did not respect to Chinese traditions.[122] According to the Journal du Luxe, a French news media, the adoption of the mamianqun cut and construction design by Dior was not the main issue of the debate and critics but rather on the absence of transparency surrounding the origins of the inspirations behind the skirt design.[122] Some Chinese netizens also criticized Dior on Weibo with comments, such as "Was Dior inspired by Taobao?"[123] while another Instagram user commented on the official Dior account:[122]

"Les références culturelles à notre pays [Chine] sont plus que bienvenues mais cela ne signifie pas pour autant que vous pouvez détourner notre culture et nier le fait que cette jupe est chinoise!" [transl. "Taking cultural references from our country [China] is more than welcomed; however, this does not meaning that you can appropriate our culture and deny the fact that this skirt is Chinese!"].

— Instagram user, in Journal du Luxe

Dior was accused of cultural appropriation for a second time in July 2022 for due to its usage of pattern print which looks like the huaniaotu (Chinese: 花鸟图; lit. 'bird-and-flower painting') into its 2022 autumn and winter ready-to-wear collection having introduced it as being Dior's signature motif Jardin d'Hiver, which was inspired by Christian Dior's wall murals;[124] the huaniaotu is a traditional Chinese painting theme which belong to the Chinese scholar-artist style in Chinese painting and originated in the Tang dynasty.[125]

Ownership and shareholdings

At the end of 2010, the only declared major shareholder in Christian Dior S.A. was Groupe Arnault SAS, the family holding company of Bernard Arnault. The group's control amounted to 69.96% of Dior's stock and 82.86% of its voting rights.[126] The remaining shares are considered free float.[126]

Christian Dior S.A. held 42.36% of the shares of LVMH and 59.01% of its voting rights at the end of 2010. Arnault held an additional 5.28% of shares and 4.65% of votes directly.[7]

Creative directors

Retail locations

 
Dior boutique in Buenos Aires, Argentina

The company operates a total of 210 locations as of September 2010[citation needed]:

  • Asia: 109
  • Africa: 1 (Casablanca, Morocco)
  • Caribbean: 1 (San Juan, Puerto Rico)
  • Europe: 45
  • Central America (Panama): 1
  • Middle East: 8
  • North America (Canada, Mexico, and the United States): 48
  • Oceania: 6
  • South America (Brazil, Argentina): 4

See also

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  120. ^ "중국인 유학생이 파리 '디올' 매장 앞에서 시위하는 이유는?". 서울신문 (in Korean). 25 July 2022.
  121. ^ 汉良 (24 July 2022). "巴黎中国留学生抗议迪奥抄袭 反示威者讽刺：裙子比人权重要？". See Hua Daily News (in Chinese).
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  123. ^ "$3,800 Dior Skirt Accused of Appropriating Chinese Culture". www.vice.com. Retrieved 3 August 2022.
  124. ^ Looi, Sylvia (4 August 2022). "In less than a month, French fashion brand Dior accused of cultural appropriation again". Malay Mail. Retrieved 4 August 2022.
  125. ^ "Flower-and-Bird Paintings". en.chinaculture.org. Retrieved 4 August 2022.
  126. ^ a b (PDF). Christian Dior. Archived from the original (PDF) on 3 October 2011. Retrieved 29 May 2011. Shareholdings p. 33; employees p. 57; financials pp. 100–102.

Further reading

  • Jackson, Lesley. The New Look: Design in the Fifties. London: Thames & Hudson, 1991. ISBN 0-500-27644-7.

External links

 
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Christian Dior S.A..
  • Official website
  • Dior – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory
  • Christian Dior at Chicago History Museum Digital Collections 15 January 2015 at the Wayback Machine
  • "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. 29 July 2015.
  • Christian Dior, exhibition catalog fully online as PDF from The Metropolitan Museum of Art

January 31, 2023
dior, this, article, about, company, designer, christian, other, uses, disambiguation, christian, french, kʁistjɑ, djɔʁ, commonly, known, stylized, dior, european, multinational, luxury, fashion, house, controlled, chaired, french, businessman, bernard, arnaul. This article is about the company For the designer see Christian Dior For other uses see Dior disambiguation Christian Dior SE French kʁistjɑ djɔʁ 1 commonly known as Dior stylized DIOR is a European multinational luxury fashion house 2 controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault who also heads LVMH Dior itself holds 42 36 shares and 59 01 of voting rights within LVMH 7 8 Christian Dior SEHeadquarters in Paris FranceTypePublic Societas Europaea 1 Traded asEuronext Paris CDIEuronext 100 componentISINFR0000130403IndustryLuxury goodsFounded16 December 1946 76 years ago 1946 12 16 FounderChristian DiorHeadquarters30 Avenue Montaigne Paris France 2 Number of locations210Area servedWorldwideKey peopleBernard Arnault chairman Antoine Arnault vice chairman amp CEO 3 Maria Grazia Chiuri creative director Kim Jones creative director 4 ProductsClothing cosmetics fashion accessories jewelry perfumes spirits watches winesServicesDepartment storesRevenue 53 67 billion 2019 5 Operating income 11 43 billion 2019 5 Net income 7 78 billion 2019 5 Total assets 93 83 billion 2019 5 Total equity 35 71 billion 2019 5 Number of employees163 309 2019 5 DivisionsChristian Dior CosmeticsDior HommeParfums Christian DiorSubsidiariesChristian Dior Couture 6 LVMH 42 36 Websitedior comThe company was founded in 1946 by French fashion designer Christian Dior who was originally from Normandy This brand sells only shoes and clothing that can only be bought in Dior stores Haute couture is under the Christian Dior Couture division Pietro Beccari has been the CEO of Christian Dior Couture since 2018 9 Contents 1 History 1 1 Founding 1 2 New Look 1 3 Dior 1 4 Expansion and death of Christian Dior 1 5 Dior without Christian Dior 1957 through the 1970s 1 6 Arrival of businessman Arnault 1 7 21st century 1 8 Celebrity ambassadors 2 Fashion shows 3 Financial data 4 Criticism 4 1 2000s 4 2 2010s 5 Plagiarism and cultural appropriation controversies 5 1 2017 5 2 2022 6 Ownership and shareholdings 7 Creative directors 8 Retail locations 9 See also 10 References 11 Further reading 12 External linksHistory EditFounding Edit The House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946 10 6 at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris However the current Dior corporation celebrates 1947 as the opening year 6 Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac 6 11 Boussac had originally invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston but Dior refused wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand 12 The new couture house became a part of a vertically integrated textile business already operated by Boussac 11 Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees 11 The company was really a vanity project for Boussac and was a majorly owned affiliate of Boussac Saint Freres S A Nevertheless Dior was allowed a then unusual great part in his namesake label legal leadership a non controlling stake in the firm and one third of pretax profits despite Boussac s reputation as a control freak Dior s creativity also negotiated him a good salary 11 New Look Edit Bar suit 1947 displayed in Moscow 2011 On 12 February 1947 Christian Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring Summer 1947 The show of 90 models of his first collection on six mannequins was presented in the salons of the company s headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne 6 Originally the two lines were named Corolle and Huit 6 However the new collection went down in fashion history as the New Look after the editor in chief of Harper s Bazaar Carmel Snow exclaimed It s such a new look 6 11 The New Look was a revolutionary era for women at the end of the 1940s 13 When the collection was presented the editor in chief also showed appreciation by saying It s quite a revolution dear Christian 13 The debut collection of Christian Dior is credited with having revived the fashion industry of France 14 Along with that the New Look brought back the spirit of haute couture in France as it was considered glamorous and young looking 15 We were witness to a revolution in fashion and to a revolution in showing fashion as well 16 The silhouette was characterized by a small nipped in waist and a full skirt falling below mid calf length which emphasized the bust and hips as epitomized by the Bar suit from the first collection 17 18 The collection overall showcased more stereotypically feminine designs in contrast to the popular fashions of wartime with full skirts tight waists and soft shoulders Dior retained some of the masculine aspects as they continued to hold popularity through the early 1940s but he also wanted to include more feminine style 19 The New Look became extremely popular its full skirted silhouette influencing other fashion designers well into the 1950s and Dior gained a number of prominent clients from Hollywood the United States and the European aristocracy As a result Paris which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after World War II regained its preeminence 20 21 The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as a refreshing antidote to the austerity of wartime and de feminizing uniforms and was embraced by stylish women such as Princess Margaret in the UK citation needed According to Harold Koda Dior credited Charles James with inspiring The New Look 22 Dior s designs from the New Look did not only affect the designers in the 1950s but also more recent designers in the 2000s including Thom Browne Miuccia Prada and Vivienne Westwood Dior s evening dresses from that time are still referred to by many designers and they have been seen in different wedding themed catwalks with multiple layers of fabric building up below the small waist Jojo 2011 Examples include Vivienne Westwood s Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2011 and Alexander McQueen s Ready to Wear Fall Winter 2011 Jojo 2011 citation needed Not everyone was pleased with the New Look however Some considered the amount of material to be wasteful especially after years of cloth rationing 23 Feminists in particular were outraged feeling that these corseted designs were restrictive and regressive and that they took away a woman s independence 24 There were several protest groups against the designs including the League of Broke Husbands made up of 30 000 men who were against the costs associated with the amount of fabric needed for such designs Fellow designer Coco Chanel remarked Only a man who never was intimate with a woman could design something that uncomfortable 21 Despite such protests the New Look was highly influential continuing to inform the work of other designers and fashion well into the 21st century 14 For the 60th anniversary of the New Look in 2007 John Galliano revisited it for his Spring Summer collection for Dior 25 Galliano used the wasp waist and rounded shoulders modernised and updated with references to origami and other Japanese influences 25 In 2012 Raf Simons revisited the New Look for his debut haute couture collection for Dior wishing to update its ideas for the 21st century in a minimalist but also sensual and sexy manner 14 26 Simons s work for Dior retained the luxurious fabrics and silhouette but encouraged self respect for the woman s body and liberation of expression 26 The design process for this collection which was produced in only eight weeks is documented in Dior and I presenting Simons s use of technology and modernist re interpretations 27 Dior Edit Dior s NYC Store 2019 Available references contradict themselves whether Christian Dior Parfums was established in 1947 or 1948 The Dior corporation itself lists the founding of Christian Dior Parfums as 1947 with the launch of its first perfume Miss Dior 6 Dior revolutionized the perfumery industry with the launch of the highly popular Miss Dior parfum which was named after Catherine Dior Christian Dior s sister 6 Christian Dior Ltd owned 25 manager of Coty perfumes held 35 and Boussac owned 40 of the perfume business headed by Serge Heftler Louiche 6 Pierre Cardin was made head of the Dior workshop from 1947 until 1950 In 1948 a New York City Christian Dior Parfums branch was established this could be the cause of establishment date issue 6 The modern Dior corporation also notes that a luxury ready to wear house is established in New York at the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street the first of its kind in 1948 6 In 1949 the Diorama perfume is released and 6 by 1949 the New Look line alone made a profit FFr 12 7 million 11 Expansion and death of Christian Dior Edit Eva Peron the First Lady of Argentina and one of Dior s muses wears a custom evening gown at the Teatro Colon 1949 Expansion from France began by the end of 1949 with the opening of a Christian Dior boutique in New York City By the end of the year Dior fashions made up 75 of Paris s fashion exports and 5 of France s total export revenue 11 In 1949 Douglas Cox from Melbourne Australia travelled to Paris to meet with Christian Dior to discuss the possibility of having Dior pieces made for the Australian market Christian Dior and Douglas Cox signed a contract for Dior to produce original designs and for Douglas Cox to create them in his Flinders Lane workshop 28 A young Jill Walker still in her mid teens was one of the many workers for Douglas Cox a couture label now in the headlines in Australian newspapers almost daily Jill would go onto forming a couture legacy in Melbourne with popular labels such as Jinoel and Marti with husband Noel Kemelfield 29 The agreement between Dior and Douglas Cox really put Australian dressmaking on the global stage yet ultimately the 60 Dior models proved to be too avant garde for the conservative Australian taste Douglas Cox was unable to continue the contract beyond the single 1949 season making these Dior Cox couture pieces some of the most rare collectors items in Australian couture 30 In 1950 Jacques Rouet the general manager of Dior Ltd devised a licensing program to place the now renowned name of Christian Dior visibly on a variety of luxury goods 11 It was placed first on neckties 6 and soon was applied to hosiery furs hats gloves handbags jewelry lingerie and scarves 11 Members of the French Chamber of Couture denounced it as a degrading action for the haute couture image Nevertheless licensing became a profitable move and began a trend to continue for decades to come 11 which all couture houses followed 6 Also in 1950 Christian Dior was the exclusive designer of Marlene Dietrich s dresses in the Alfred Hitchcock film Stage Fright In 1951 Dior released his first book Je Suis Couturier I am a Couturier through publishers Editions du Conquistador Despite the company s strong European following more than half of its revenue was generated in the United States by this time 11 Christian Dior Models Limited was created in London in 1952 6 An agreement was made between the Sydney label House of Youth for Christian Dior New York models 6 Los Gobelinos in Santiago Chile made an agreement with Dior for Christian Dior Paris Haute Couture 6 The first Dior shoe line was launched in 1953 with the aid of Roger Vivier The company operated firmly established locations in Mexico Cuba Canada and Italy by the end of 1953 11 As popularity of Dior goods grew so did counterfeiting 11 This illegal business was supported by women who could not afford the luxury goods By the mid 1950s the House of Dior operated a well respected fashion empire 11 The first Dior boutique was established in 1954 at 9 Counduit Street In honour of Princess Margaret and the Duchess of Marlborough a Dior fashion show was held at the Blenheim Palace in 1954 as well Christian Dior launched more highly successful fashion lines between the years of 1954 and 1957 11 However none came as close to the profound effect of the New Look 11 Dior opened the Grande Boutique on the corner between Avenue Montaigne and Rue Francois Ier in 1955 6 The first Dior lipstick was also released in 1955 6 100 000 garments had been sold by the time of the company s 10th anniversary in 1956 11 Actress Ava Gardner had 14 dresses created for her in 1956 by Christian Dior for the Mark Robson film The Little Hut Christian Dior appeared on the cover of TIME dated 4 March 1957 The designer soon afterwards died from a third heart attack on 24 October 1957 6 11 The captivating impact of Dior s creative fashion genius earned him recognition as one of history s greatest fashion figures 11 Kevin Almond for Contemporary Fashion wrote that by the time Dior died his name had become synonymous with taste and luxury 11 Dior without Christian Dior 1957 through the 1970s Edit The death of the head designer left the House of Dior in chaos and general manager Jacques Rouet considered shutting down operation worldwide This possibility was not received graciously by Dior licensees and the French fashion industry the Maison Dior was too important to the financial stability of the industry to allow such an action To bring the label back on its feet Rouet promoted the 21 year old Yves Saint Laurent to Artistic Director the same year 11 Laurent had joined the House s family in 1955 after being picked out by the original designer himself for the position of the first ever and only Head Assistant 6 11 Laurent initially proved to have been the most appropriate choice after the debut of his first collection for Dior the mention of Dior from this moment on refers to the company in 1958 11 The clothes were as meticulously made and perfectly proportioned as Dior s in the same exquisite fabrics but their young designer made them softer lighter and easier to wear Saint Laurent was hailed as a national hero Emboldened by his success his designs became more daring culminating in the 1960 Beat Look inspired by the existentialists in the Saint Germain des Pres cafes and jazz clubs His 1960 bohemian look was harshly criticized and even more in Women s Wear Daily 11 Marcel Boussac was furious and in the spring when Saint Laurent was called up to join the French army which forced him to leave the House of Dior the Dior management raised no objection Saint Laurent left after the completion of six Dior collections 6 Christian Dior Haute Couture suit designed by Marc Bohan spring summer 1973 Adnan Ege Kutay Collection Laurent was replaced at Dior by designer Marc Bohan in late 1960 Bohan instilled his conservative style on the collections He was credited by Rebecca Arnold as the man who kept the Dior label at the forefront of fashion while still producing wearable elegant clothes and Women s Wear Daily not surprisingly claimed that he rescued the firm 11 Bohan s designs were very well esteemed by prominent social figures Actress Elizabeth Taylor ordered twelve Dior dresses from Bohan s Spring Summer 1961 collection featuring the Slim Look The Dior perfume Diorling was released in 1963 and the men s fragrance Eau Sauvage was released in 1966 6 Bohan s assistant Philippe Guibourge launches the first French ready to wear collection Miss Dior in 1967 This is not to be confused with the already existing New York Ready to Wear store established in 1948 Designed by Bohan Baby Dior opens its first boutique in 1967 at 28 Avenue Montaigne The Christian Dior Coordinated Knit line is released in 1968 and management of the Fashion Furs Department of Christian Dior is taken by Frederic Castet 6 This year as well Dior Parfums was sold to Moet Hennessy which would itself become LVMH due to Boussac s ailing textile company the still owner of Dior 6 11 This however had no effect on the House of Dior operations and so the Christian Dior Cosmetics business was born in 1969 with the creation of an exclusive line Following this Bohan launched the first Christian Dior Homme clothing line in 1970 A new Dior boutique at Parly II was decorated by Gae Aulenti and the Diorella perfume was released in 1972 Christian Dior Ready to Wear Fur Collection was created in France in 1973 and then manufactured under license in the United States Canada and Japan 6 The first Dior watch Black Moon was released in 1975 in collaboration with licensee Benedom Dior haute couture graced the bodies of Princess Grace of Monaco Nicaraguan First Lady Hope Portocarrero Princess Alexandra of Yugoslavia and Lady Pamela Hicks Lord Mountbatten of Burma s younger daughter for the wedding of The Prince of Wales and Lady Diana Spencer In 1978 the Boussac Group filed for bankruptcy and so its assets including those of Christian Dior were purchased by the Willot Group under the permission of the Paris Trade Court 6 The perfume Dioressence was released in 1979 6 Arrival of businessman Arnault Edit A simple Dior Haute Couture evening gown designed by Marc Bohan from the Spring 1983 collection In 1980 Dior released the men s fragrance Jules 6 After the Willot Group went into bankruptcy in 1981 Bernard Arnault and his investment group purchased it for one symbolic franc in December 1984 6 11 The Dior perfume Poison was launched in 1985 That same year Arnault became chairman chief executive officer and managing director of the company 6 On assuming leadership Arnault did away with the company s mediocre textile operations to focus on the Bon Marche department store and Christian Dior Couture Operations for Christian Dior drastically changed for the better under Arnault He repositioned it as the holding company Christian Dior S A of the Dior Couture fashion business 11 On the 40th anniversary of Dior s first collection the Paris Fashion Museum dedicated an exhibition to Christian Dior 6 In 1988 Arnault s Christian Dior S A s took a 32 equity stake into the share capital of Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton through its subsidiary Jacques Rober creating what would become one of the leading and most influential luxury goods companies in the world Under this milestone merger the operations of Christian Dior Couture and Christian Dior Parfums were once again united Italian born Gianfranco Ferre replaced Bohan as head designer in 1989 11 The first such non Frenchman Ferre left behind traditional Dior associations of flirtation and romance and introduced concepts and a style described as refined sober and strict 11 Ferre headed design for Haute Couture Haute Fourrure Women s Ready to Wear Ready to Wear Furs and Women s Accessories collections His first collection was awarded the De d Or in 1989 6 That year a boutique was opened in Hawaii and the LVMH stake by Jacques Rober rose to 44 6 Further Dior boutiques were opened in 1990 in upscale New York City Los Angeles and Tokyo shopping districts The stake in LVMH rose again to 46 6 Another collection of watches named Bagheera inspired by the round design of the Black Moon watches was also released in 1990 Having fired the company s managing executive Beatrice Bongbault in December 1990 Arnault took up that position until September 1991 when he placed former Bon Marche president Phillipe Vindry at the post 11 In 1991 Christian Dior was listed on the spot market and then on the Paris Stock Exchange s monthly settlement market and the perfume Dune was launched 6 Vindry dropped ready to wear prices by 10 Still a wool suit from Dior would come with a price label of USD 1 500 11 1990 revenue for Dior was USD 129 3 million with a net income of 22 million 11 Dior was now reorganized into three categories 1 women s ready to wear lingerie and children s wear 2 accessories and jewelry 3 menswear Licensees and franchised boutiques were starting to be reduced to increase the company s control over brand product Licensing was in fact reduced by nearly half because Arnault and Vindry opted for quality and exclusivity over quantity and accessibility 11 Wholly company owned boutiques now opened in Hong Kong Singapore Kuala Lumpur Cannes and Waikiki adding to its core stores located in New York City Hawaii Paris and Geneva This held a potential to increase direct sales and profit margins while maintaining high profile locations 11 In 1992 Dior Homme was placed under the artistic direction of Patrick Lavoix and the Miss Dior perfume was relaunched 6 Francois Baufume succeeded Vindry in 1993 and continued to reduce licenses of the Dior name 11 Leather gloves by Christian Dior The production of Dior Haute Couture was spun off into a subsidiary named Christian Dior Couture in 1995 6 Also the La Parisienne watch model was released embodied in the watch Parisian Chic By that year revenue for the label rose to USD 177 million with a net income of USD 26 9 million 11 Under the influence of Anna Wintour editor and chief of Vogue CEO Arnault appointed British designer John Galliano to replace Gianfranco Ferre in 1997 Galliano on CBS News without Anna Wintour I would certainly not be at the house of Dior 6 31 This choice of a British designer once again instead of a French one is said to have ruffled some French feathers Arnault himself stated that he would have preferred a Frenchman but that talent has no nationality 11 He even compared Galliano to Christian Dior himself noting that Galliano has a creative talent very close to that of Christian Dior He has the same extraordinary mixture of romanticism feminism and modernity that symbolised Monsieur Dior In all of his creations his suits his dresses one finds similarities to the Dior style 11 Galliano sparked further interest in Dior with somewhat controversial fashion shows such as Homeless Show models dressed in newspapers and paper bags or S amp M Show 11 Meanwhile Dior licenses were being reduced further by new president and CEO Sidney Toledano 11 On 15 October 1997 the Dior headquarters store on Avenue Montaigne was reopened it had been closed and remodeled by Peter Marino in a celebrity studded event including Nicole Kidman Demi Moore and Jacques Chirac That year Christian Dior Couture also took over all thirteen boutique franchises from Japan s Kanebo 6 In May 1998 another Dior boutique was opened in Paris This time the store opened its doors on the Left Bank Place Saint Germain des Pres Also this year Victoire de Castellane became lead designer of Dior Fine Jewellery and the first Dior Fine Jewellery boutique opened in New York City Paris itself would witness the opening of the first Parisian Dior Fine Jewellery boutique the following year at 28 Avenue Montaigne 6 The perfume J adore was released in 1999 6 and on 5 October 1999 Galliano released the Dior Spring Summer 2000 ready to wear fashion show debuting the new Saddle bag In the same year Dior s long watch partner Benedom joined the LVMH group In 2000 Galliano s leadership was extended to Ready to wear accessories advertising and communications The first campaign under his leadership was photographed by Nick Knight and featured two women simulating intercourse While other brands in the late 1990s notably Gucci 32 had resorted to porn chic as a mean to draw attention Dior ads had such an impact that porn chic became a trend in most fashion ads Galliano ignited the escalation of porno chic advertisements which culminated with Ungaro s zoophilic ads 33 shot by Mario Sorrenti and Gucci s ads which featured a model with pubic hair shaped like the signature Gucci logo As a matter of fact it is considered that Galliano had revolutionized Dior more through his advertising campaigns than through his designs 34 35 On 17 July 2000 Dior Homme lead designer Patrick Lavoix was replaced by Hedi Slimane Notable Dior releases that year were watches such as the distinctive Malice which features bracelets made of CD links as well as the Riva Hedi left Dior Homme in 2007 and replaced by Kris Van Assche 21st century Edit In 2001 the Dior Homme boutique on 30 Avenue Montaigne reopened with a new contemporary masculine concept instilled by its designer Hedi Slimane Slimane used this concept in the creation of his first Dior Homme collection 6 Soon Dior Homme gained prominent male clientele including Brad Pitt and Mick Jagger 11 John Galliano then began to release his own Dior watches in 2001 beginning with the Chris 47 Aluminum line marking a new era in Dior watch design Next the Malice and Riva watches were redesigned with precious stones to create the Malice Sparkling and Riva Sparkling spin off collections Inspired by the Spring Summer 2002 Ready to Wear collection Dior released the Dior 66 watch breaking many feminine traditional expectations in design The Dior flagship boutique in the upscale Ginza shopping district of Tokyo First opened in 2004 The men s fragrance Higher was released in 2001 followed by the perfume Addict in 2002 The company then opened Milan s first Dior Homme boutique on 20 February 2002 By 2002 130 locations were in full operation 11 On 3 June 2002 Slimane was presented with the International Designer of the Year award by the CFDA Until 2002 Kanebo was the Christian Dior ready to wear license holder in Japan and when the license expired Christian Dior was able to profitable directly sell its ready to wear and accessories in its own boutiques 36 The Chris 47 Steel watch was released in 2003 as a cousin of the original Chris 47 Aluminum Bernard Arnault Helene Mercier Arnault and Sidney Toledano witnessed the opening of the Dior flagship boutique in the Omotesandō district of Tokyo on 7 December 2003 The second Dior flagship store was opened in the upscale Ginza shopping district of Tokyo in 2004 6 An exclusive Dior Homme boutique was opened also that year in Paris on Rue Royale and it presented the entire Dior Homme collection A second Dior Fine Jewelry boutique in Paris was opened at 8 Place Vendome 6 A Christian Dior boutique was opened in Moscow after the company took control of licensed operations of its Moscow agent 6 The designer of Dior Fine Jewelry Victoire de Castellane launched her own watch named Le D de Dior French The D of Dior signifying the entrance of Dior watches into its collection of fine Jewelry This watch was designed for women but made use of many design features which are typically thought of as masculine Slimane next released a watch for the Dior Homme collection called Chiffre Rouge This special watch included the signature look of Dior Homme Watch design and technology match each other inseparably to create the perfect expression of Dior Homme s artistic excellence and to increase the watchmaking legitimacy of Dior timepieces De Castellane then launched her second line of watches called La Baby de Dior The design for this line was meant to be more feminine with more of a jewelry look Dior Omotesandō 2007 Dior sign in the Debenhams store in Sutton London England The Miss Dior Cherie perfume and the Dior Homme fragrance were released in 2005 6 Galliano released his Dior Christal watches in which he combined steel and blue sapphires to create a creative and innovative collection Christian Dior S A then celebrated the 13th anniversary of Dior Watches in 2005 and in April of that year its Chiffre Rouge collection was recognized by the World Watches and Jewelry Show in Basel Switzerland Also in the year the fashion house also celebrated the 100th anniversary of the birthday of designer Christian Dior 6 An exhibition Christian Dior Man of the Century was held in the Dior Museum in Granville Normandy In 2006 the Dior watch booth was dedicated to the Dior Canework This pattern was made by designer Christian Dior and based on the Napoleon III chairs used in his fashion shows In 2007 Kris Van Assche was appointed as the new artistic director of Dior Homme Van Assche presented his first collection later that year 6 The 60th Anniversary of the founding of the Maison Dior was officially celebrated in 2007 as well 6 By February 2011 the House of Dior was in scandal after accusations of John Galliano making anti Semitic remarks made international headlines the company found itself in a public relations nightmare 37 Galliano was fired in March and the scheduled presentation of his Fall Winter 2011 2012 ready to wear collection went ahead without him amid the controversy on 4 March 38 Before the start of the show chief executive Sydney Toledano gave a sentimental speech on the values of Christian Dior and alluded to the family s ties to The Holocaust 39 The show closed with the staff of the atelier coming out to accept applause in the absence of their artistic director The previous January 2011 presentation of Spring Summer 2011 haute couture was the last appearance of Galliano on the Dior runway The company went on ahead and appointed Bill Gaytten as head designer interim in absence of artistic director 40 Gaytten had worked under Galliano for Dior and for the John Galliano label The first haute couture collection for the Fall Winter 2011 season under Gaytten s management was presented in July and was received with mainly negative reviews 41 42 Meanwhile speculation remained for months as it was unknown who would be selected to replace Galliano During its 13 month period of having no artistic director Dior began undergoing subtle changes in its designs as the influence of the theatrical and flamboyant Galliano faded The all new resigned dior com was launched in late 2011 There is a subtext to this New New Look that goes beyond respect for the house s esteemed founder In one fell swoop John Galliano has been all but removed from the Dior history books By making a visual connection between his era and that of Christian Dior himself Raf Simons has redrawn the line of succession The unimpeachable codes of Dior are illustrated for a new generation the bias cut dresses and Kabuki styling of Galliano downgraded to a footnote Critic surmising the meaning of Simons premier collection for Dior 43 On 23 January 2012 Gaytten presented his second haute couture collection for the Spring Summer 2012 season for Dior and it was much better received than his first collection 44 Belgian designer Raf Simons was announced on 11 April 2012 as the new artistic director of Christian Dior Simons was known for his minimalist designs 43 and this contrasted against the dramatic previous designs of Dior under Galliano Furthermore Simons was seen to have emerged as a dark horse amid the names of other designers who were considered high contenders 37 To emphasize the appropriate choice of Simons as the right designer the company ostentatiously made comparisons between Simons and the original designer Christian Dior 45 Reportedly Bernard Arnault and fellow executives at Dior and LVMH were keen to move Dior from the Galliano years 37 Simons spent much time in the Dior archives 46 and familiarizing himself with haute couture as he had no previous background in that niche of fashion 37 Simons was then scheduled to debut his designs in July Meanwhile Gaytten s Spring Summer 2012 haute couture collection was presented as the first Dior haute couture show ever to be held in China on 14 April in Shanghai 47 and it was a mark of the company s devotion to its presence in the Chinese market Cosmetics counter at New Zealand department store Smith amp Caughey s in Auckland New Zealand The show was the last presentation by Gaytten for Dior and he remained as head designer for the John Galliano label 48 On 3 May the Dior Secret Garden Versailles promotional film was launched 49 It was highly buzzed about throughout various industry and social media sources as it was a display of Dior through its transition Simons presented his first ever collection for the company the Fall Winter 2012 haute couture collection on 2 July A major highlight of the fall winter 2012 haute couture shows 37 46 50 the collection was called by the company as the new couture and made reference to the start of a new Dior through the work of Simons wiping the haute couture slate clean and starting again from scratch 51 The designer s collection made more references to Mr Dior than to the house of Dior 43 with pieces harkening back to themes Dior s post WWII designs introduced to fashion 37 Simons who rarely makes himself available for interviews gave an interview published by the company through its Dior Mag online feature 52 While previous runway presentations under Galliano were held at the Musee Rodin Simons show was held at a private residence near the Arc de Triomphe with the address only disclosed to select top clients celebrities journalists and other personnel exclusively invited in a discreet affair 53 High profile figures in attendance included designers Azzedine Alaia 37 46 Pierre Cardin 37 54 Alber Elbaz Lanvin designer 37 43 46 Diane von Furstenberg 37 43 54 Marc Jacobs 37 43 54 Christopher Kane 37 43 Olivier Theyskens 46 Riccardo Tisci 37 54 Donatella Versace 37 43 46 54 and Princess Charlene of Monaco 37 actresses Marion Cotillard 37 Melanie Laurent 37 Jennifer Lawrence 37 Sharon Stone film producer Harvey Weinstein 46 and Dior chairman Arnault with his daughter 37 Live satellite feed of the show was provided on DiorMag online and Twitter was also implemented for real time communication 53 By then it was also known that the company had purchased the Parisian embroidery firm Maison Vermont sometime earlier in 2012 43 In March 2015 it was announced that Rihanna was chosen as the official spokeswoman for Dior this makes her the first black woman to take the spokeswoman position at Dior 55 In 2015 Israeli model Sofia Mechetner was chosen to be the new face of Dior 56 In 2016 Maria Grazia Chiuri was named the women s artistic director for Dior 57 In April 2016 a new Dior flagship boutique opened in San Francisco with a party hosted by Jaime King 58 In 2017 Dior renovated and expanded its Madrid store The brand celebrated the opening of the new boutique in a masked ball attended by a number of Spanish celebrities like Alejandro Gomez Palomo 59 In March 2018 Kim Jones was named the men s artistic director for the house 60 Under his management Dior has made several high profile streetwear collaborations Jones first show for Dior featured American artist and designer Brian Donnelly aka KAWS Thereafter followed collaborations with Raymond Pettibon 1017 ALYX 9SM Yoon Ahn Hajime Sorayama Daniel Arsham Sacai and most recently Shawn Stussy creator of the legendary streetwear brand Stussy 61 In October 2019 Dior apologized to China for using a map of China that excluded Taiwan 62 On 11 March 2022 30 Avenue Montaigne has once again opened its doors to the public 63 The property was closed for two years for a major renovation led by architect Peter Marino 63 Historically 30 Avenue Montaigne is the place where Christian Dior showcased his first collection 63 In January 2023 it was announced Delphine Arnault would assume the role of chairperson and CEO beginning in February 64 Celebrity ambassadors Edit Dior has created strong partnerships with Hollywood celebrities and social media influencers working closely with these individuals to reach more demographics and re establish its identity as a new modern brand despite the fact that it has been around for a while 65 This has allowed the brand to portray a more populist image and attract a wider audience 66 The brand has worked with and dressed contemporary style icons like Jennifer Lawrence and Lupita Nyong o who may resonate with millennials 67 Dior has effectively implemented social media into their marketing communication strategy in which images and videos from campaigns are shared on both the official Dior profile and on the celebrity ambassadors social media pages An example of this success is seen in the Secret Garden campaign featuring Rihanna 68 In this campaign Rihanna is seen dancing to a song from her album Only If For a Night through a hall of mirrors 69 By being associated with Rihanna s song the company created a sense of association with her brand which was beneficial to the company as she was ranked as the most marketable celebrity in 2016 70 Despite the reach not being completely suitable to the Dior target audience collaborating with the likes of Rihanna allowed the company to engage with more of the market as Rihanna s social media following is four times larger than that of the fashion house 66 Below are some of the celebrity ambassadors who have fronted Dior campaigns Isabelle Adjani Poison perfume 1985 1990s 71 Carla Bruni Lady Dior handbag 1996 72 Milla Jovovich Hypnotic Poison perfume 1999 2000 73 Charlize Theron J Adore Dior perfume 2004 present Sharon Stone Capture skincare 2005 present 74 Monica Bellucci Dior cosmetics 2006 2010 75 76 Lady Dior handbag 2006 2007 Hypnotic Poison perfume 2009 2010 77 Eva Green Midnight Poison 2007 2008 78 Marion Cotillard Lady Dior handbag 2008 2017 79 80 Miss Dior handbag 2011 81 Jude Law Dior Homme fragrance 2008 2012 82 Natalie Portman Miss Dior fragrance Dior cosmetics 2010 present 83 84 Melanie Laurent Hypnotic Poison perfume 2011 present 85 Mila Kunis Miss Dior handbag 2012 86 Jennifer Lawrence Miss Dior handbag 2012 present 87 Joy by Dior fragrance 2018 present 88 Robert Pattinson Dior Homme fragrance 2013 present 89 Rihanna Diorama bag J adore Dior perfume Dior sunglasses 2015 present 90 91 Johnny Depp Dior Sauvage fragrance 2015 present 92 Angelababy DiorAmour collection 2017 present 93 Cara Delevingne DIOR Addict Stellar Shine Lipstick BE DIOR BE PINK 2019 94 95 Kim Jisoo Dior Global Fashion Muse 2020 present Dior Global Ambassador for Fashion and Beauty 2021 present 96 Yara Shahidi Dior Global Brand Ambassador 2021 present Face of Dior for Fashion and Cosmetics 2021 present 97 98 Oh Se hun Face of Dior for Fashion 2021 present 99 better source needed Kylian Mbappe brand ambassador of the men s collection including Sauvage fragrance 100 Cha Eun woo Dior Beauty Global ambassador for Dior Capture Totale the new Serum 2023 present 101 102 Park Jimin Dior Global Ambassador 2023 present 103 Fashion shows EditFashion show Date Models in order of appearance Soundtrack Theme Creative directorSpring 2020 Ready to Wear 20 January 2020 Maria Grazia ChiuriPre Fall 2020 11 December 2019Spring 2017 Ready to Wear 30 September 2016Resort 2017 31 May 2016 Serge Ruffieux amp Lucie MeierFall 2016 Ready to Wear 4 March 2016Spring 2003 Couture 19 January 2003 John GallianoSpring 2001 Ready to Wear Fall 2000 Couture 28 July 2000Fall 2000 Ready to Wear 28 February 2000Spring 2000 Ready to Wear Fall 1999 Couture 19 July 1999Spring 1998 Couture Financial data EditFinancial data in millions 104 Year 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017Revenue 29 881 30 984 35 081 37 968 43 666Net Income 3 926 3 883 6 165 4 164 5 753Assets 55 555 61 161 60 030 62 904 72 762Employees 2535 2780 3033 3100 3800Criticism Edit2000s Edit In 2000 Galliano s collection inspired by homeless people drew criticism but also attention to the house of Dior 105 2010s Edit In early 2011 scandal arose when John Galliano was accused of making anti semitic comments after drinking in Paris Footage was released of the designer under the influence of alcohol saying I love Hitler and People like you would be dead today Your mothers your forefathers would be fucking gassed and dead to a non Jewish woman 106 In France it is against the law to make anti semitic remarks and is punishable by up to six months in prison 106 On 1 March 2011 Christian Dior officially announced that it had fired Galliano amidst the controversy 107 Plagiarism and cultural appropriation controversies Edit2017 Edit In 2017 Dior was accused of cultural appropriation by directly plagiarizing a Bihor coat a traditional Romanian vest by using the same colour and patterns in its pre fall collection Dior had presented it as their original designs without giving any credit to the people of Bihor nor crediting the Romanian people as source of inspiration 108 109 As a result Romanian people were outraged and to fight against this cultural appropriation a compaign was launched by Romanian fashion magazine Beau Monde who then recruited native craftsmen and fashion designers from Bihor to create a new line of fashion 108 The cover of the Beau Monde magazine read 109 Don t let traditions go out of stock Support the fashion from Bihor and buy authentic creations from Bihorcouture com Beau Monde Thus the online platform named Bihor Couture was launched Bihor Couture also publicly shamed Dior for theft and sold original artisan made versions of the traditional Romanian vest 108 2022 Edit Main article Mamianqun Dior controversy 2022 In April 2022 Dior released a new midi skirt in Seoul Dior s art director Maria Grazia Chiuri described the 2022 Fall collection design was inspired by school uniform including pleated skirts also in honour of Catherine Dior 110 This new skirt was plain black wrap around skirt which was made of two panels of fabric which was sewn to the waistband of the skirt it featured four flat panels with no pleats one at each side of each panel of fabric and pleats it was constructed in an overlapping fashion such that there was two overlapping flat surface at the back and front and side pleats when worn 111 110 On its official website page this skirt was described as a hallmark Dior silhouette the mid length skirt is updated with a new elegant and modern variation 112 Example of a midi mamianqun designed by Chinese Hanfu fashion designers a 21st century modified version of the Ming dynasty style modern worn by a Hanfu enthusiast photograph taken on the 29 March 2022 Three month later this skirt was noticed by some Hanfu enthusiasts who criticized it as being created by copying the mamianqun design 113 They also indicated that this skirt have the exact same cut and construction as the mamianqun with only its length being the difference from the orthodox style and historical mamianqun of the Ming dynasty 1368 1644 AD 110 114 It was however noted by Chinese netizens that the 21st modified modern version of the mamianqun also included midi mamianqun had been designed in the past years by Chinese Hanfu designers 115 114 Dior decided to stop this sale in Mainland China to avoid controversy On July 23 about 50 Chinese overseas students in Paris France made a protest in front of a Dior flagship store at the Champs Elysee 116 117 they used the slogan Dior Stop Cultural Appropriation and This is a traditional Chinese dress written with a mixture of French and English 118 they also called for other overseas students from the United Kingdom and the United States for relay the Communist Youth League of China also expressed support for this protest 119 There are also more than 10 Chinese democratic activists lifted banners writing Skirt Rights Is Bigger Than Human Rights etc for anti ptotest And both sides started a conflict with each other Chinese news media initially have no mention for anti protest but focused on cultural embezzling accuse 120 Chinese network also spread a theory that the democracy activists were composed by Taiwanese 121 Some French news media commented this was largely due to Dior does not describe its origin for sale with transparency most criticize views argued that Dior did not respect to Chinese traditions 122 According to the Journal du Luxe a French news media the adoption of the mamianqun cut and construction design by Dior was not the main issue of the debate and critics but rather on the absence of transparency surrounding the origins of the inspirations behind the skirt design 122 Some Chinese netizens also criticized Dior on Weibo with comments such as Was Dior inspired by Taobao 123 while another Instagram user commented on the official Dior account 122 Les references culturelles a notre pays Chine sont plus que bienvenues mais cela ne signifie pas pour autant que vous pouvez detourner notre culture et nier le fait que cette jupe est chinoise transl Taking cultural references from our country China is more than welcomed however this does not meaning that you can appropriate our culture and deny the fact that this skirt is Chinese Instagram user in Journal du Luxe Dior was accused of cultural appropriation for a second time in July 2022 for due to its usage of pattern print which looks like the huaniaotu Chinese 花鸟图 lit bird and flower painting into its 2022 autumn and winter ready to wear collection having introduced it as being Dior s signature motif Jardin d Hiver which was inspired by Christian Dior s wall murals 124 the huaniaotu is a traditional Chinese painting theme which belong to the Chinese scholar artist style in Chinese painting and originated in the Tang dynasty 125 Ownership and shareholdings EditAt the end of 2010 the only declared major shareholder in Christian Dior S A was Groupe Arnault SAS the family holding company of Bernard Arnault The group s control amounted to 69 96 of Dior s stock and 82 86 of its voting rights 126 The remaining shares are considered free float 126 Christian Dior S A held 42 36 of the shares of LVMH and 59 01 of its voting rights at the end of 2010 Arnault held an additional 5 28 of shares and 4 65 of votes directly 7 Creative directors EditChristian Dior 1946 1957 Yves Saint Laurent 1957 1960 Marc Bohan 1960 1989 Gianfranco Ferre 1989 1997 John Galliano 1997 2011 Bill Gaytten 2011 2012 Raf Simons 2012 2015 Serge Ruffieux amp Lucie Meier 2015 2016 Maria Grazia Chiuri women s 2016 present Hedi Slimane men s 2000 2007 Kris Van Assche men s 2007 2018 Kim Jones men s 2018 presentRetail locations Edit Dior boutique in Buenos Aires Argentina The company operates a total of 210 locations as of September 2010 citation needed Asia 109 Africa 1 Casablanca Morocco Caribbean 1 San Juan Puerto Rico Europe 45 Central America Panama 1 Middle East 8 North America Canada Mexico and the United States 48 Oceania 6 South America Brazil Argentina 4See also EditPortals Companies Fashion FranceReferences Edit a b Christian Dior SE bylaws PDF dior finance com Retrieved 9 September 2020 a b Christian Dior Infogreffe Retrieved 9 September 2020 Pietro Beccari The Business of Fashion Retrieved 1 May 2021 Paton Elizabeth 19 March 2018 Dior Confirms Kim Jones as Men s Wear Artistic Director The New York Times 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Brands Celebrate Chinese Valentine s Day WeChat Style Jing Daily 17 August 2017 Archived from the original on 9 January 2019 Retrieved 9 January 2018 Exclusive Be Dior Be Pink Introducing The New Dior Addict Stellar Shine Campaign With Cara Delevingne Grazia Australia Archived from the original on 15 April 2019 Retrieved 15 April 2019 Murdoch Smith Lauren 7 March 2019 Cara Delevingne Talks Pink Punk And Her New Campaign For Dior Addict Stellar Shine British Vogue Archived from the original on 15 April 2019 Retrieved 15 April 2019 Blackpink Member Jisoo is Dior s New Fashion and Beauty Ambassador Women s Wear Daily 6 March 2021 Archived from the original on 1 May 2021 Retrieved 6 March 2021 Ilchi Layla 2 July 2021 Yara Shahidi Named Dior Global Brand Ambassador WWD Retrieved 11 December 2021 Davis Jessica 2 July 2021 Dior names Yara Shahidi as global brand ambassador Harper s BAZAAR Retrieved 11 December 2021 Singer actor and Dior Global Ambassador Sehun tuned in to discover DiorMenFall 2022 Twitter com 9 December 2021 Retrieved 9 December 2021 Harrison Jovi Kylian Mbappe is Dior s new Brand Ambassador Da Man Retrieved 23 December 2021 Cite web title Dior Official on Twitter Cutting a dashing figure in black Dior Beauty ambassador Cha Eunwoo was the picture of elegance as he arrived at the DiorSS23 by Maria Grazia Chiuri show on dior com ss2023 in Paris earlier PFW url https twitter com dior status 1574818645439643648 Dior Beauty Official on Instagram The House of Dior is pleased to welcome Eunwo o c as the first global ambassador for Dior Capture Totale the new Serum DiorBeauty DiorSkincare DiorCaptureTotale CaptureIt Instagram Retrieved 18 January 2023 Bhondve Neha 17 January 2023 Cha Eun Woo Becomes The Global Ambassador Of Christian Dior Beauty JazmineMedia Retrieved 22 January 2023 Diderich Joelle 16 January 2023 EXCLUSIVE Dior Signs BTS Member Jimin as Global Ambassador WWD Retrieved 18 January 2023 Christian Dior Bilanz Gewinn und Umsatz Christian Dior Geschaftsbericht 883123 wallstreet online de Archived from the original on 5 November 2018 Retrieved 5 November 2018 Dowd Maureen 23 January 2000 Liberties Haute Homeless The New York Times Archived from the original on 17 February 2011 Retrieved 8 March 2011 a b John Galliano anti Semitic rant caught on video Slurs on camera I love Hitler Archived 2 March 2011 at the Wayback Machine Nydailynews com 28 February 2011 Retrieved 11 March 2011 Keaten Jamey 3 January 2011 Galliano fired after reportedly praising Hitler in rant MSNBC Retrieved 11 March 2011 a b c Brown Sass Vacca Federica 9 December 2022 Cultural sustainability in fashion reflections on craft and sustainable development models Sustainability Science Practice and Policy 18 1 590 600 doi 10 1080 15487733 2022 2100102 ISSN 1548 7733 S2CID 251340649 a b Romanian people sued Dior for copying their folk clothing in his collection Nationalclothing org nationalclothing org Retrieved 4 August 2022 a b c Hu Denni 18 July 2022 Dior Sparks Online Criticism for Traditional Chinese Dressing Design WWD Retrieved 3 August 2022 Cultural Appropriation I bought Dior s 3800 skirt amp It is a copycat of Chinese Mamianqun retrieved 3 August 2022 Dior faces criticisms over new skirt resembling ancient Chinese clothing www marketing interactive com Retrieved 3 August 2022 迪奥抄袭 引热议 网友 公开抄袭中国马面裙 Changjiang Cloud in Chinese China 16 July 2022 a b Yuanyuan Zhao 19 July 2022 Dior accused of appropriating Chinese culture with 3 800 skirt SupChina Retrieved 3 August 2022 Koetse Manya Mamianqun Gate Dior Accused of Cultural Appropriation for Copying Design of Traditional Chinese Skirt Retrieved 3 August 2022 留法中国学生抗议迪奥 文化挪用 Deutsch Welle in Chinese China 24 July 2022 曾婷瑄 23 July 2022 巴黎中國留學生抗議Dior抄襲 反示威者 裙子比人權重要 CNA in Chinese Taiwan Paris Oscar Holland Dior accused of culturally appropriating centuries old Chinese skirt CNN Retrieved 3 August 2022 Shamuratov J Alimbaev M 30 May 2022 The significance of technology in teaching l2 Renessans v paradigme novacij obrazovaniya i tehnologij v XXI veke 1 214 216 doi 10 47689 innovations in edu vol iss1 pp214 216 ISSN 2277 3010 S2CID 249361979 중국인 유학생이 파리 디올 매장 앞에서 시위하는 이유는 서울신문 in Korean 25 July 2022 汉良 24 July 2022 巴黎中国留学生抗议迪奥抄袭 反示威者讽刺 裙子比人权重要 See Hua Daily News in Chinese a b c Dior une polemique entre appropriation et transparence culturelle journalduluxe fr in French 21 July 2022 3 800 Dior Skirt Accused of Appropriating Chinese Culture www vice com Retrieved 3 August 2022 Looi Sylvia 4 August 2022 In less than a month French fashion brand Dior accused of cultural appropriation again Malay Mail Retrieved 4 August 2022 Flower and Bird Paintings en chinaculture org Retrieved 4 August 2022 a b Annual Report 2010 PDF Christian Dior Archived from the original PDF on 3 October 2011 Retrieved 29 May 2011 Shareholdings p 33 employees p 57 financials pp 100 102 Further reading EditJackson Lesley The New Look Design in the Fifties London Thames amp Hudson 1991 ISBN 0 500 27644 7 External links Edit Wikimedia Commons has media related to Christian Dior S A Official website Dior brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory Christian Dior at Chicago History Museum Digital Collections Archived 15 January 2015 at the Wayback Machine Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies Victoria and Albert Museum 29 July 2015 Christian Dior exhibition catalog fully online as PDF from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Dior amp oldid 1136691957 22New Look 22, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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