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Haute couture

May 07, 2023

"Couturier" redirects here. For other uses, see Couturier (disambiguation).
"High fashion" redirects here. For the song, see High Fashion (song).

Haute couture (/ˌoʊt kuːˈtjʊər/ (listen); French pronunciation: ​[ot kutyʁ]; French for 'high sewing', 'high dressmaking') is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design that is constructed by hand from start-to-finish. Beginning in the mid-nineteenth century, Paris became the centre of a growing industry that focused on making outfits from high-quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable of sewers—often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.[1][2] Couture translates literally from French as "dressmaking", sewing, or needlework[3] and is also used as a common abbreviation of haute couture and can often refer to the same thing in spirit.[4] Haute translates literally to "high".

Pierre Balmain adjusting a dress on model Ruth Ford in 1947 (photographed by Carl Van Vechten)

Terminology

 
The annual Met Gala, held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on the Upper East Side of Manhattan and organized by Vogue high-fashion magazine, hosts the largest haute couture fashion night annually.

The term haute couture originally referred to Englishman Charles Frederick Worth's work, produced in Paris in the mid-19th century.[2] In France, the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris based in Paris. The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture is defined as "the regulating commission that determines which fashion houses are eligible to be true haute couture houses". Their rules state that only "those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves" of the label haute couture.[5] The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne is an association of Parisian couturiers founded in 1868 as an outgrowth of medieval guilds that regulate its members in regard to counterfeiting of styles, dates of openings for collections, number of models presented, relations with press, questions of law and taxes, and promotional activities. Formation of the organization was brought about by Charles Frederick Worth. An affiliated school was organized in 1930 called L'Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. The school helps bring new designers to help the "couture" houses that are still present today. Since 1975, this organization has worked within the Federation Francaise, de couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Createurs de Mode.[6]

More rigorous criteria for haute couture were established in 1945.[7] To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture must follow specific rules:[5]

  • design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings;
  • have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen staff members full-time;
  • have at least 20 full-time technical people, in at least one workshop (atelier); and
  • present a collection of at least 50 original designs to the public every fashion season (twice, in January and July of each year), of both day and evening garments.

The term is also used loosely to describe all high-fashion, custom-fitted clothing, whether it is produced in the fashion capitals of New York City, Paris, and Milan. In either case, the term can refer to the fashion houses or fashion designers that create exclusive and often trend-setting fashions or to the fashions created. The term haute couture has also taken on further popular meanings referring to non-dressmaking activities, such as production of fine art and music.[8]

History in France

 
Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2011–2012 Fashion Show by Karl Lagerfeld
 
Chanel Haute Couture jacket, Fall/Winter 1961

Haute couture can be referenced back as early as the 17th century.[9] Rose Bertin, the French fashion designer to Queen Marie Antoinette, can be credited for bringing fashion and haute couture to French culture.[10] Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was then copied by local dressmakers. Stylish women also ordered dresses in the latest Parisian fashion to serve as models.

As railroads and steamships made European travel easier, it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories. French fitters and dressmakers were commonly thought to be the best in Europe, and real Parisian garments were considered better than local imitations.[11][citation needed]

A couturier (French: [ku.ty.ʁje]) is an establishment or person involved in the clothing fashion industry who makes original garments to order for private clients. A couturier may make what is known as haute couture.[12] Such a person usually hires patternmakers and machinists for garment production, and is either employed by exclusive boutiques or is self-employed.[citation needed]

The couturier Charles Frederick Worth is widely considered the father of haute couture as it is known today.[13][14] Although born in Bourne, Lincolnshire, England, Worth made his mark in the French fashion industry.[2] Revolutionizing how dressmaking had been previously perceived, Worth made it so the dressmaker became the artist of garnishment: a fashion designer. While he created one-of-a-kind designs to please some of his titled or wealthy customers, he is best known for preparing a portfolio of designs that were shown on live models at the House of Worth. Clients selected one model, specified colours and fabrics, and had a duplicate garment tailor-made in Worth's workshop. Worth combined individual tailoring with a standardization more characteristic of the ready-to-wear clothing industry, which was also developing during this period.

Following in Worth's footsteps were Callot Soeurs, Patou, Poiret, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel, Mainbocher, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior. Some of these fashion houses still exist today, under the leadership of modern designers.

In the 1960s, a group of young protégés who had trained under more senior and established fashion designers including Dior and Balenciaga left these established couture houses and opened their own establishments. The most successful of these young designers were Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges, Ted Lapidus, and Emanuel Ungaro. Japanese native and Paris-based Hanae Mori was also successful in establishing her own line.

Lacroix is one of the fashion houses to have been started in the late 20th century. Other new houses have included Jean-Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler. Due to the high expenses of producing haute couture collections, Lacroix and Mugler have since ceased their haute couture activities.[15]

For all these fashion houses, custom clothing is no longer the main source of income, often costing much more than it earns through direct sales; it only adds the aura of fashion to their ventures in ready-to-wear clothing and related luxury products such as shoes and perfumes, and licensing ventures that earn greater returns for the company. It is their ready-to-wear collections that are available to a wider audience, adding a splash of glamour and the feel of haute couture to more wardrobes.[16] Fashion houses still create custom clothing for publicity, for example providing items to celebrity events such as the Met Gala.[17]

Members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture

Main article: List of grand couturiers

Official members [18]

Correspondent members (foreign)

Guest members

Recent guest members have included the fashion houses of Cathy Pill, Gerald Watelet [fr], Nicolas Le Cauchois [fr][19] and Ma Ke (Wuyong).[20] In the 2008/2009 Fall/Winter Haute Couture week, Emanuel Ungaro showed as an Official Member.

Former members

Fabrics

Silk

Textiles refer to the fabric or medium being used by designers to create an article of clothing. Silk originates from China where the "Silk worm" was found to live. Asian elite began the use of silk in high fashion since the classical ages. As time went on, silk began to be traded leading to the creation of the "Silk Road" to be formed, which was a boost to China's economy.[21] The value of silk is distinguished by the form of its use, such as it being used as currency.[22] Silk type of fabric is composed of fibers that are produced by the silkworm mainly found only in China.[22] There are various kinds of silks, used by designers, found in the textile world, such as dupioni, China, brocade, Jacquard, and satin silk.[23] These various kinds of silks are often used to produce certain styles of clothing. For example, Chiffon silk is used to create draping due to the fact that this silk is a thinner silk than others. Allowing for easier movement and flow of the fabric, thus creating an easier process for draping.[23]

Wool

Wool is the textile fiber obtained from animals such as sheep, camels, camelids, goats, or other hairy mammals.[24] Wool was first discovered and used mainly for protection against cold weather.[25] Not all types are acceptable or considered "fine" wool. For instance, fine wool is found only within four breeds of sheep, the other fifteen are not considered to be "fine".[23] Dying wool is a delicate procedure due to the fact that wool easily absorbs colour, so it is important to be cautious in order not to ruin the wool.[23] Some of the higher-end wools are alpaca, angora, mohair, cashmere, camel hair, and vicuña wool; each of these wools has a different texture and softness.[23]

References

  1. ^ "Haute Couture | Fashion A–Z". The Business of Fashion. Retrieved 11 October 2018.
  2. ^ a b c Kelly, Lakenya (4 February 2017). . The Dapifer. Archived from the original on 8 July 2017. Retrieved 10 June 2017.
  3. ^ . The Odd Portrait. 29 November 2016. Archived from the original on 8 October 2021. Retrieved 29 November 2016.
  4. ^ "What is Haute Couture?". Haute Couture News. Retrieved 19 February 2011.
  5. ^ a b Thomas, Pauline Weston. "Chambre Syndicale History and Development – Fashion History". Fashion-Era. Retrieved 15 July 2015.
  6. ^ Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey; Tortora, Phyllis (2002). The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion (3rd ed.). New York: Fairchild Books. ISBN 978-1-5636-7235-4.
  7. ^ "Bloomsbury Fashion Central -". www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com. Retrieved 8 March 2017.
  8. ^ "Wuyong – Dancing In A Haute Couture Debut | The Fashion Blog". Fashion-blog.us. Retrieved 15 July 2015.
  9. ^ Steele, Valerie, ed. (2010). The Berg Companion to Fashion. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic. p. 393. ISBN 978-1-8478-8563-0.
  10. ^ Nudelman, Zoya (2009). The Art of Couture Sewing. London: Bloomsbury Academic. p. 2. ISBN 978-1-5636-7539-3.
  11. ^ "French Fashion - Free Essays". www.essays24.com. Retrieved 6 July 2022.
  12. ^ "Merriam-Webster".
  13. ^ Shaeffer 2001, p. 12
  14. ^ Kent, Jacqueline C. (2003). Business Builders in Fashion. Minneapolis: The Oliver Press, Inc. p. 21. ISBN 978-1-8815-0880-9.
  15. ^ End of a fairytale: Christian Lacroix fashion house to strip down. The Guardian. Retrieved 21 October 2014
  16. ^ Chevalier, Michel (2012). Luxury Brand Management. Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 978-1-118-17176-9.
  17. ^ Meltzer, Marisa (19 September 2013). "Get Me Wardrobe!". The New York Times. p. E1.
  18. ^ "Haute Couture".
  19. ^ . Archived from the original on 17 June 2008. Retrieved 27 June 2008.
  20. ^ . Archived from the original on 1 July 2008. Retrieved 27 June 2008.
  21. ^ "Silk in Antiquity". World History Encyclopedia. Retrieved 14 June 2019.
  22. ^ a b "silk | Definition & History". Encyclopædia Britannica. Retrieved 14 June 2019.
  23. ^ a b c d e Nudelman, Zoya (10 March 2016). The Art of Couture Sewing. ISBN 9781609018313. OCLC 911180187.
  24. ^ "Wool | animal fibre". Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved 14 June 2019.
  25. ^ www.sheepcentre.co.uk https://www.sheepcentre.co.uk/wool.htm. Retrieved 14 June 2019. {{cite web}}: Missing or empty |title= (help)

Bibliography

  • Lynam, Ruth (ed.) Couture: An Illustrated History of the Great Paris Designers and their Creations (Doubleday & Co., 1972)
  • Shaeffer, Claire B. (2001). Couture Sewing Techniques. Newtown, Connecticut: Taunton Press. ISBN 978-1-5615-8497-0.

External links

  • Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode official website

May 07, 2023
haute, couture, couturier, redirects, here, other, uses, couturier, disambiguation, high, fashion, redirects, here, song, high, fashion, song, ʊər, listen, french, pronunciation, kutyʁ, french, high, sewing, high, dressmaking, creation, exclusive, custom, fitt. Couturier redirects here For other uses see Couturier disambiguation High fashion redirects here For the song see High Fashion song Haute couture ˌ oʊ t k uː ˈ tj ʊer listen French pronunciation ot kutyʁ French for high sewing high dressmaking is the creation of exclusive custom fitted high end fashion design that is constructed by hand from start to finish Beginning in the mid nineteenth century Paris became the centre of a growing industry that focused on making outfits from high quality expensive often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable of sewers often using time consuming hand executed techniques 1 2 Couture translates literally from French as dressmaking sewing or needlework 3 and is also used as a common abbreviation of haute couture and can often refer to the same thing in spirit 4 Haute translates literally to high Pierre Balmain adjusting a dress on model Ruth Ford in 1947 photographed by Carl Van Vechten Contents 1 Terminology 2 History in France 3 Members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture 3 1 Official members 18 3 2 Correspondent members foreign 3 3 Guest members 3 4 Former members 4 Fabrics 4 1 Silk 4 2 Wool 5 References 5 1 Bibliography 6 External linksTerminology Edit The annual Met Gala held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on the Upper East Side of Manhattan and organized by Vogue high fashion magazine hosts the largest haute couture fashion night annually The term haute couture originally referred to Englishman Charles Frederick Worth s work produced in Paris in the mid 19th century 2 In France the term haute couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et d industrie de Paris based in Paris The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture is defined as the regulating commission that determines which fashion houses are eligible to be true haute couture houses Their rules state that only those companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the Ministry for Industry are entitled to avail themselves of the label haute couture 5 The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne is an association of Parisian couturiers founded in 1868 as an outgrowth of medieval guilds that regulate its members in regard to counterfeiting of styles dates of openings for collections number of models presented relations with press questions of law and taxes and promotional activities Formation of the organization was brought about by Charles Frederick Worth An affiliated school was organized in 1930 called L Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture The school helps bring new designers to help the couture houses that are still present today Since 1975 this organization has worked within the Federation Francaise de couture du Pret a Porter des Couturiers et des Createurs de Mode 6 More rigorous criteria for haute couture were established in 1945 7 To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture must follow specific rules 5 design made to order for private clients with one or more fittings have a workshop atelier in Paris that employs at least fifteen staff members full time have at least 20 full time technical people in at least one workshop atelier and present a collection of at least 50 original designs to the public every fashion season twice in January and July of each year of both day and evening garments The term is also used loosely to describe all high fashion custom fitted clothing whether it is produced in the fashion capitals of New York City Paris and Milan In either case the term can refer to the fashion houses or fashion designers that create exclusive and often trend setting fashions or to the fashions created The term haute couture has also taken on further popular meanings referring to non dressmaking activities such as production of fine art and music 8 History in France EditThis section needs additional citations for verification Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources in this section Unsourced material may be challenged and removed July 2015 Learn how and when to remove this template message Chanel Haute Couture Fall Winter 2011 2012 Fashion Show by Karl Lagerfeld Chanel Haute Couture jacket Fall Winter 1961 Haute couture can be referenced back as early as the 17th century 9 Rose Bertin the French fashion designer to Queen Marie Antoinette can be credited for bringing fashion and haute couture to French culture 10 Visitors to Paris brought back clothing that was then copied by local dressmakers Stylish women also ordered dresses in the latest Parisian fashion to serve as models As railroads and steamships made European travel easier it was increasingly common for wealthy women to travel to Paris to shop for clothing and accessories French fitters and dressmakers were commonly thought to be the best in Europe and real Parisian garments were considered better than local imitations 11 citation needed A couturier French ku ty ʁje is an establishment or person involved in the clothing fashion industry who makes original garments to order for private clients A couturier may make what is known as haute couture 12 Such a person usually hires patternmakers and machinists for garment production and is either employed by exclusive boutiques or is self employed citation needed The couturier Charles Frederick Worth is widely considered the father of haute couture as it is known today 13 14 Although born in Bourne Lincolnshire England Worth made his mark in the French fashion industry 2 Revolutionizing how dressmaking had been previously perceived Worth made it so the dressmaker became the artist of garnishment a fashion designer While he created one of a kind designs to please some of his titled or wealthy customers he is best known for preparing a portfolio of designs that were shown on live models at the House of Worth Clients selected one model specified colours and fabrics and had a duplicate garment tailor made in Worth s workshop Worth combined individual tailoring with a standardization more characteristic of the ready to wear clothing industry which was also developing during this period Following in Worth s footsteps were Callot Soeurs Patou Poiret Vionnet Fortuny Lanvin Chanel Mainbocher Schiaparelli Balenciaga and Dior Some of these fashion houses still exist today under the leadership of modern designers In the 1960s a group of young proteges who had trained under more senior and established fashion designers including Dior and Balenciaga left these established couture houses and opened their own establishments The most successful of these young designers were Yves Saint Laurent Pierre Cardin Andre Courreges Ted Lapidus and Emanuel Ungaro Japanese native and Paris based Hanae Mori was also successful in establishing her own line Lacroix is one of the fashion houses to have been started in the late 20th century Other new houses have included Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler Due to the high expenses of producing haute couture collections Lacroix and Mugler have since ceased their haute couture activities 15 For all these fashion houses custom clothing is no longer the main source of income often costing much more than it earns through direct sales it only adds the aura of fashion to their ventures in ready to wear clothing and related luxury products such as shoes and perfumes and licensing ventures that earn greater returns for the company It is their ready to wear collections that are available to a wider audience adding a splash of glamour and the feel of haute couture to more wardrobes 16 Fashion houses still create custom clothing for publicity for example providing items to celebrity events such as the Met Gala 17 Members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture EditMain article List of grand couturiers Official members 18 Edit Adeline Andre Alexandre Vauthier Alexis Mabille Balmain Bouchra Jarrar Chanel Dior Franck Sorbier Giambattista Valli Givenchy Jean Paul Gaultier Julien Fournie Maison Margiela Rabih Kayrouz Schiaparelli Stephane RollandCorrespondent members foreign Edit Atelier Versace Azzedine Alaia Elie Saab Fendi Couture Giorgio Armani Prive Iris Van Herpen Ulyana Sergeenko Valentino Viktor amp RolfGuest members Edit Balenciaga Christopher Josse Georges Hobeika Imane Ayissi Julie de Libran Rad Hourani Rahul Mishra Ralph amp Russo RR331 Ronald van der Kemp Yuima Nakazato Zuhair Murad Javi MadridRecent guest members have included the fashion houses of Cathy Pill Gerald Watelet fr Nicolas Le Cauchois fr 19 and Ma Ke Wuyong 20 In the 2008 2009 Fall Winter Haute Couture week Emanuel Ungaro showed as an Official Member Former members Edit Anne Valerie Hash Balenciaga Callot Soeurs Marie Louise Carven Christian Lacroix Emilio Pucci Escada Frank Sorbier Germaine Lecomte Gres Guy Laroche Hanae Mori Jacques Fath Jacques Griffe Jacques Heim Jean Patou Jean Louis Scherrer Joseph Lanvin Lecoanet Hemant Loris Azzaro Louis Feraud Lucien Lelong Louise Cheruit Mad Carpentier Madeleine Vionnet Madeleine Vramant Maggy Rouff Mainbocher Marcel Rochas Marcelle Chaumont Nina Ricci Paco Rabanne Paul Poiret Philippe et Gaston Pierre Balmain Pierre Cardin Robert Piguet Ted Lapidus Thierry Mugler Torrente fr Vera Borea Yiqing Yin Yves Saint LaurentFabrics EditSilk Edit Textiles refer to the fabric or medium being used by designers to create an article of clothing Silk originates from China where the Silk worm was found to live Asian elite began the use of silk in high fashion since the classical ages As time went on silk began to be traded leading to the creation of the Silk Road to be formed which was a boost to China s economy 21 The value of silk is distinguished by the form of its use such as it being used as currency 22 Silk type of fabric is composed of fibers that are produced by the silkworm mainly found only in China 22 There are various kinds of silks used by designers found in the textile world such as dupioni China brocade Jacquard and satin silk 23 These various kinds of silks are often used to produce certain styles of clothing For example Chiffon silk is used to create draping due to the fact that this silk is a thinner silk than others Allowing for easier movement and flow of the fabric thus creating an easier process for draping 23 Wool Edit Wool is the textile fiber obtained from animals such as sheep camels camelids goats or other hairy mammals 24 Wool was first discovered and used mainly for protection against cold weather 25 Not all types are acceptable or considered fine wool For instance fine wool is found only within four breeds of sheep the other fifteen are not considered to be fine 23 Dying wool is a delicate procedure due to the fact that wool easily absorbs colour so it is important to be cautious in order not to ruin the wool 23 Some of the higher end wools are alpaca angora mohair cashmere camel hair and vicuna wool each of these wools has a different texture and softness 23 References Edit Haute Couture Fashion A Z The Business of Fashion Retrieved 11 October 2018 a b c Kelly Lakenya 4 February 2017 What Does Couture Mean Definition and French Translation The Dapifer Archived from the original on 8 July 2017 Retrieved 10 June 2017 What is Haute Couture The Odd Portrait 29 November 2016 Archived from the original on 8 October 2021 Retrieved 29 November 2016 What is Haute Couture Haute Couture News Retrieved 19 February 2011 a b Thomas Pauline Weston Chambre Syndicale History and Development Fashion History Fashion Era Retrieved 15 July 2015 Calasibetta Charlotte Mankey Tortora Phyllis 2002 The Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion 3rd ed New York Fairchild Books ISBN 978 1 5636 7235 4 Bloomsbury Fashion Central www bloomsburyfashioncentral com Retrieved 8 March 2017 Wuyong Dancing In A Haute Couture Debut The Fashion Blog Fashion blog us Retrieved 15 July 2015 Steele Valerie ed 2010 The Berg Companion to Fashion Oxford Bloomsbury Academic p 393 ISBN 978 1 8478 8563 0 Nudelman Zoya 2009 The Art of Couture Sewing London Bloomsbury Academic p 2 ISBN 978 1 5636 7539 3 French Fashion Free Essays www essays24 com Retrieved 6 July 2022 Merriam Webster Shaeffer 2001 p 12 Kent Jacqueline C 2003 Business Builders in Fashion Minneapolis The Oliver Press Inc p 21 ISBN 978 1 8815 0880 9 End of a fairytale Christian Lacroix fashion house to strip down The Guardian Retrieved 21 October 2014 Chevalier Michel 2012 Luxury Brand Management Singapore John Wiley amp Sons ISBN 978 1 118 17176 9 Meltzer Marisa 19 September 2013 Get Me Wardrobe The New York Times p E1 Haute Couture Haute Couture Spring Summer 2008 Definitive schedule Archived from the original on 17 June 2008 Retrieved 27 June 2008 Haute Couture Fall Winter 2008 2009 Definitive schedule Archived from the original on 1 July 2008 Retrieved 27 June 2008 Silk in Antiquity World History Encyclopedia Retrieved 14 June 2019 a b silk Definition amp History Encyclopaedia Britannica Retrieved 14 June 2019 a b c d e Nudelman Zoya 10 March 2016 The Art of Couture Sewing ISBN 9781609018313 OCLC 911180187 Wool animal fibre Encyclopedia Britannica Retrieved 14 June 2019 www sheepcentre co uk https www sheepcentre co uk wool htm Retrieved 14 June 2019 a href Template Cite web html title Template Cite web cite web a Missing or empty title help Bibliography Edit Lynam Ruth ed Couture An Illustrated History of the Great Paris Designers and their Creations Doubleday amp Co 1972 Shaeffer Claire B 2001 Couture Sewing Techniques Newtown Connecticut Taunton Press ISBN 978 1 5615 8497 0 External links EditFederation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode official website Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Haute couture amp oldid 1153424004, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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