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Intramuros

Intramuros (Latin for "inside the walls") is the 0.67-square-kilometer (0.26 sq mi) historic walled area within the city of Manila, the capital of the Philippines. It is administered by the Intramuros Administration with the help of the city government of Manila.[2]

Intramuros
District of Manila and Historic Walled City
Nickname(s): 
Old Manila; the Walled City
Motto(s): 
Insigne y siempre leal
Distinguished and ever loyal
Intramuros
Coordinates: 14°35′29″N 120°58′25″E / 14.59147°N 120.97356°E / 14.59147; 120.97356Coordinates: 14°35′29″N 120°58′25″E / 14.59147°N 120.97356°E / 14.59147; 120.97356
CountryPhilippines
RegionNational Capital Region
CityManila
Congressional District5th District of Manila
SettledJune 12, 1571 (1571-June-12)
Founded byMiguel López de Legazpi
Government
 • Administrator of IntramurosGuiller Asido
Area
 • Total0.67 km2 (0.26 sq mi)
Population
 (2015)[1]
 • Total5,935
 • Density8,900/km2 (23,000/sq mi)
Time zoneUTC+08:00 (Philippine Standard Time)
Zip codes
1002
Area codes2
Websiteintramuros.gov.ph

Present-day Intramuros comprises a centuries-old historic district, entirely surrounded by fortifications, that was considered at the time of the Spanish Empire to be the entire City of Manila. Other towns and arrabales (suburbs) located beyond the walls that are now districts of Manila were referred to as extramuros, Latin for "outside the walls",[3][4] and were independent towns that were only incorporated into the city of Manila during the early 20th century. Intramuros served as the seat of government of the Captaincy General of the Philippines, a component realm of the Spanish Empire, housing the colony's governor-general from its founding in 1571 until 1865, and the Real Audiencia of Manila until the end of Spanish rule during the Philippine Revolution of 1898.

The walled city was also considered the religious and educational center of the Spanish East Indies. The original campuses of the University of Santo Tomas, the oldest university in Asia, and the Ateneo de Manila, were in Intramuros before transferring in 1927 and 1932 respectively; today the area still contains the main campuses of the University of the City of Manila, the Colegio de San Juan de Letran, Mapúa University, Philippine Nautical Training Colleges, the Colegio de Santa Rosa, and the Manila High School.[5] Intramuros was also an economic center; its port in what is now Plaza Mexico was the Asian hub of the Manila galleon trade, carrying goods to and from Acapulco in what is now Mexico.

Construction of the Spanish walled city began under the orders of the Spanish imperial government in the late 16th century to protect the city from foreign invasions, replacing the old prehispanic settlement of Maynila along the shores of the Manila Bay, by the entrance to the Pasig River. Near the mouth of the Pasig River is Fort Santiago, which, along with a series of bulwarks and gates, fortified the city from repeated invasions. During the early 20th century, under the administration of American colonial authorities, land reclamation and the construction of the Manila South Port subsequently moved the coastline westward and obscured the walls and fort from the bay, while the moat surrounding the fortifications was drained and turned into a recreational golf course.

The Battle of Manila in 1945 entirely flattened Intramuros. As the occupying Japanese Imperial Army made their last stand against the victorious efforts of Allied soldiers and Filipino guerrillas, heavy artillery bombardment destroyed its eight churches, walls, universities, houses, and government buildings constructed for centuries in Spanish colonial architecture; only the San Agustín Church, the oldest standing church in the Philippines, survived intact and was later made a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Though reconstruction efforts began immediately after the war, many of its original landmarks are still lost today; under the Intramuros Administration, Intramuros is still in the process of postwar reconstruction and revival of its cultural heritage.

Intramuros, including Fort Santiago, was designated a National Historical Landmark in 1951. The fortifications of Intramuros, under the name Fortifications of Manila, were declared National Cultural Treasures by the National Museum of the Philippines, owing to its historic and cultural significance.[6] San Agustín Church, one of four UNESCO World Heritage Sites under the entry Baroque Churches of the Philippines, is located within Intramuros. Several Philippine government agencies are headquartered in Intramuros; the Bureau of the Treasury is located in the Ayuntamiento, the old municipal hall of Manila, while the Commission on Elections is housed in an office building at Plaza Roma at the site of the old governor's palace. Several offices of the Catholic Church, including the Archdiocese of Manila and the Catholic Bishops' Conference of the Philippines, are also found at or near Manila Cathedral.

History

Pre-Hispanic period

The strategic location of Manila along the bay and at the mouth of Pasig River made it an ideal location for the Tagalog tribes and kingdoms to trade with merchants from what would be today's China, India, Borneo, and Indonesia.

At present-day Fort Santiago is where the polity of Maynila was located.

Spanish Colonial Period (1571–1898)

Spanish conquest of Manila (1571–1762)

 
The sketch of the Plaza de Roma Manila by Fernando Brambila, a member of the Malaspina Expedition during their stop in Manila in 1792
 
Plaza Santo Tomas is where the Santo Domingo Church, Colegio de Santa Rosa and the original University of Santo Tomas were built during the Spanish Colonial Period

In 1564, Spanish explorers led by Miguel López de Legazpi sailed from New Spain (now Mexico), and arrived on the island of Cebu on February 13, 1565, establishing the first Spanish colony in the Philippines. Having heard from the natives about the rich resources in Manila, Legazpi dispatched two of his lieutenant-commanders, Martín de Goiti and Juan de Salcedo, to explore the island of Luzon. The Spaniards arrived on the island of Luzon in 1570. After quarrels and misunderstandings between the Muslim natives and the Spaniards, they fought for control of the land and settlements. After several months of warfare the natives were defeated, and the Spaniards made a peace pact with the councils of Rajah Sulaiman III, Lakan Dula, and Rajah Matanda who handed over Manila to the Spaniards.

 
An 1851 map of Intramuros

Legazpi declared the area of Manila as the new capital of the Spanish colony on June 24, 1571, because of its strategic location and rich resources. He also proclaimed the sovereignty of the Monarchy of Spain over the whole archipelago. King Philip II of Spain delighted at the new conquest achieved by Legazpi and his men, awarding the city a coat of arms and declaring it as: Ciudad Insigne y Siempre Leal (English: "Distinguished and Ever Loyal City"). It was settled and became the political, military, and religious center of the Spanish Empire in Asia.

Construction of the city walls

The city was in constant danger of natural and man-made disasters and worse, attacks from foreign invaders. In 1574, a fleet of Chinese pirates led by Limahong attacked the city and destroyed it before the Spaniards drove them away. The colony had to be rebuilt again by the survivors.[7] These attacks prompted the construction of the wall.

The city of stone began during the rule of Governor-General Santiago de Vera.[8] The city was planned and executed by Jesuit Priest Antonio Sedeno[7] in accordance to the Laws of the Indies, and was approved by King Philip II's Royal Ordinance that was issued in San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Spain. The succeeding governor-general, Gómez Pérez Dasmariñas brought with him from Spain the royal instructions to carry into effect the said decree stating that "to enclose the city with stone and erect a suitable fort at the junction of the sea and river". Leonardo Iturriano, a Spanish military engineer specializing in fortifications, headed the project. Chinese and Filipino workers built the walls.

 
Main entrance of Fort Santiago, Intramuros

Fort Santiago was rebuilt and a circular fort, known as Nuestra Senora de Guia, was erected to defend the land and sea on the southwestern side of the city. Funds came from a monopoly on playing cards and fines imposed on its excessive play. Chinese goods were taxed for two years. Designed by Geronimo Tongco and Pedro Jusepe,[9] construction of the walls began on 1590 and continued under many governor-generals until 1872. By the middle of 1592, Dasmarinas wrote the King about the satisfactory development of the new walls and fortification.[10] Since the construction was carried on during different periods and often far apart, the walls were not built according to any uniform plan.[8]

Improvements continued during the terms of the succeeding Governor-Generals. Governor-General Juan de Silva executed certain work on the fortifications in 1609 which was improved by Juan Niño de Tabora in 1626, and by Diego Fajardo Chacón in 1644. The erection of the Baluarte de San Diego was also completed that year. This bastion, shaped like an "ace of spades" is the southernmost point of the wall and the first of the large bastions added to the encircling walls, then of no great height nor of finished construction.[11] It was the former site of Nuestra Señora de Guia, the very first stone fort of Manila.[12] Ravelins and reductos were added to strengthen weak areas and serve as outer defenses. A moat was built around the city with the Pasig River serving as a natural barrier on one side. By the 18th century, the city was totally enclosed. The last construction works were completed by the start of the 19th century.[10]

Inside colonial Intramuros

 
Plaza de Roma was the main square of the Walled City
 
Casa Manila is an example of Bahay na bato architecture

The main square of the city of Manila was Plaza Mayor (later known as Plaza McKinley then Plaza de Roma) in front of the Manila Cathedral. East of the plaza was the Ayuntamiento (City Hall) and facing it was the Palacio del Gobernador, the official residence of the Spanish viceroyalties to the Philippines. An earthquake on June 3, 1863, destroyed the three buildings and much of the city. The residence of the Governor-General was moved to Malacañang Palace located about 3 km (1.9 mi) up on the Pasig River. The two previous buildings were later rebuilt but not the Governor's Palace.

Inside the walls were other Roman Catholic churches, the oldest being San Agustin Church (Augustinians) built in 1607. The other churches built by the different religious orders – San Nicolas de Tolentino Church (Recollects), San Francisco Church (Franciscans), Third Venerable Order Church (Third Order of St. Francis), Santo Domingo Church (Dominican), Lourdes Church (Capuchins), and the San Ignacio Church (Jesuits) – has made the small walled city the City of Churches. Intramuros was the center of large educational institutions in the country.[3] Convents and church-run schools were established by the different religious orders. The Dominicans established the Universidad de Santo Tomás in 1611 and the Colegio de San Juan de Letrán in 1620. The Jesuits established the Universidad de San Ignacio in 1590, the first university in the country, but closed in 1768 following the expulsion of the Jesuits in the country. After the Jesuits were allowed to return to the Philippines, they established the Ateneo Municipal de Manila in 1859.[13] In the initial period of colonization, there were a total of 1200 Spanish families living in the vicinity of Intramuros, 600 Spanish families within the walls and another 600 living in the suburbs outside Intramuros. In addition to this were about 400 Spanish soldiers garrisoned at the walled city.[14]

American period (1898–1946)

 
1902 photo taking by a US Military Personnel showing Spanish artillery
 
Aerial view of the Walled City, 1939

After the end of the Spanish–American War, Spain surrendered the Philippines and several other territories to the United States as part of the terms of the Treaty of Paris for $20 million. The American flag was raised at Fort Santiago on August 13, 1898, indicating the start of American rule over the city. The Ayuntamiento became the seat of the Philippine Commission of the United States in 1901 while Fort Santiago became the headquarters of the Philippine Division of the United States Army.

The Americans made drastic changes to the city, such as in 1903, when the walls from the Santo Domingo Gate up to the Almacenes Gate were removed as the wharf on the southern bank of the Pasig River was improved. The stones removed were used for other construction happening around the city. The walls were also breached in four areas to ease access to the city: the southwestern end of Calle Aduana (now Andres Soriano Jr. Ave.); the eastern end of Calle Anda; the northeastern end of Calle Victoria (previously known as Calle de la Escuela); and the southeastern end of Calle Palacio (now General Luna Street). The double moats that surrounded Intramuros were deemed unsanitary and were filled in with mud dredged from Manila Bay where the present Port of Manila is now located. The moats were transformed into a municipal golf course by the city.

Reclamations for the construction of the Port of Manila, the Manila Hotel, and Rizal Park obscured the old walls and skyline of the city from the Manila Bay.[15] The Americans also founded the first school under the new government, the Manila High School, on June 11, 1906, along Victoria Street.[16]

In 1936, Commonwealth Act No. 171 was passed requiring that all future buildings to be constructed in Intramuros adopt Spanish colonial type architecture.

World War II and Japanese occupation

 
Destruction of the Walled City in the aftermath of the Battle of Manila.

In December 1941, the Imperial Japanese Army invaded the Philippines. The first casualties in Intramuros brought by the war were the destruction of Santo Domingo Church and the original University of Santo Tomas campus during an assault. The whole city of Manila was declared by General Douglas MacArthur as an "Open City" as Manila was indefensible.

In 1945, the battle for the liberation of Manila began when American troops tried to occupy Manila in January 1945. Intense urban fighting occurred between the combined American and Filipino troops under the United States Army and Philippine Commonwealth Army including recognized guerrillas, against the 30,000 Japanese defenders. As the battle continued, both sides inflicted heavy damage on the city culminating with the Manila massacre by Japanese troops. The Imperial Japanese Army was pushed back, eventually retreating into the Intramuros district. General MacArthur, though opposed to the bombing of the walled city, approved the heavy shelling which resulted in deaths of over 16,665 Japanese alone within Intramuros.[17] Two of the eight gates of Intramuros were badly damaged by American tanks. The bombings leveled most of Intramuros leaving only 5% of the city structures; the walls lost 40% to the bombings.[18][19] Over 100,000 Filipino men, women and children died from February 3 to March 3, 1945, during the Battle of Manila.

At the end of World War II, all of the buildings and structures in Intramuros were destroyed, with only the damaged San Agustin Church still standing.[19][20][21]

Contemporary period (1946–present)

 
Intramuros and South Harbor in 2018
 
The Bayleaf Intramuros Hotel is an exemplary model for adaptive reuse of postwar buildings.

In 1951, Intramuros was declared a historical monument and Fort Santiago, a national shrine with Republic Act 597, with the policy of restoring, reconstructing, and urban planning of Intramuros. In 1956, Republic Act 1607 declared Intramuros a "commercial, residential and educational district", opening up the district to development disregarding the historicity of the area. The same law also repealed Commonwealth Act No. 171 and Republic Act No. 597. Several laws and decrees also followed but results were deemed unsatisfactory due to limited funds.[22]

In 1979, the Intramuros Administration (IA) was created by virtue of Presidential Decree No. 1616, signed by President Ferdinand Marcos on April 10 of that year.[23]

Since then, the IA has been slowly restoring the walls, the sub-features of the fortification, and the city within. The remaining five original gates have been restored or rebuilt: Isabel II Gate, Parian Gate, Real Gate, Santa Lucía Gate and the Postigo Gate. The entrances made by the Americans by breaching the walls at four locations are now spanned by walkways thereby creating a connection, seamless in design and character to the original walls. Buildings destroyed during the war were subsequently rebuild: Manila Cathedral was rebuilt and was opened to the public in 1958, Ayuntamiento de Manila was rebuilt in 2013, while the San Ignacio Church and Convent is currently being reconstructed as the Museo de Intramuros.

In January 2015, during Pope Francis's visit to the Philippines, he led a mass at the Manila Cathedral that was attended by an estimated 2,000 bishops, priests and religious leaders of the Philippine Catholic Church.[24] Anthology, an annual 3-day festival about architecture and design, was first launched in June 2016 at Intramuros. Since then, it has been renting Fort Santiago as a venue where seminars and other activities were held, with guest speakers from local and international people from the field of architecture and design.[25] It is made possible through the partnership of WTA Architecture + Design Studio and the Intramuros Administration, who are also responsible for the critically acclaimed the Book Stop Intramuros located in Plaza Roma.

The Department of Tourism along with the Intramuros Administration launched the first major project of the newly created Faith Sector that focuses on the historic and cultural religious wealth of the Walled City. For the 2018 lenten season, seven religious destinations can be visited. For the first time since World War II, Visita Iglesia is once again possible in Intramuros. The seven destinations are the Manila Cathedral, San Agustin Church, San Ignacio Church, Guadalupe Shrine in Fort Santiago, Knights of Columbus Fr. Willman Chapel, Lyceum of the Philippines University Chapel, and the Mapua University Chapel. The event pays homage to the original seven churches during the prewar Intramuros.[26][27] The 2018 lenten season event draws over 1 million people from both foreign and local tourists in Intramuros.[28][29] The Intramuros Administration, together with the Royal Danish Embassy in Manila, and Felta Multimedia, Inc., opened the iMake History Fortress at the Baluarte de Santa Barbara in Fort Santiago last March 19, 2018. The facility is the first history-based Lego education center in the world.[30]

The COVID-19 pandemic in March 2020 caused the Intramuros Administration to temporarily close several sites within Intramuros including Fort Santiago, Museo de Intramuros, and Casa Manila.[31]

City walls

 
Atop City Walls of Intramuros

The outline of the defensive wall of Intramuros is irregular in shape, following the contours of Manila Bay and the curvature of the Pasig River. The Muralla walls covered an area of 64 hectares (160 acres) of land, surrounded by 8 feet (2.4 m) thick stones and high walls that rise to 22 feet (6.7 m). The walls stretched to an estimated 3-5 kilometers in length. An inner moat (foso) surrounds the perimeter of the wall and an outer moat (contrafoso) surrounds the walls that face the city.

Defense structures

 
Watchtower of the Baluarte de San Andres

Several bulwarks (baluarte), ravelins (ravellin) and redoubts (reductos) are strategically located along the massive walls of Intramuros following the design of medieval fortifications. The seven bastions (clockwise, from Fort Santiago) are the Bastions of Tenerias, Aduana, San Gabriel, San Lorenzo, San Andres, San Diego, and Plano.[32] The bastions were constructed at different periods of time, the reason for the differences in style. The oldest bastion is the Bastion de San Diego, which was built in 1587.

The fortifications of Intramuros comprises several parts, the front facing the sea and the river, which were less elaborate and complex, and the three-sided land front with its corresponding bastions. Fort Santiago was built at the northwest tip where the sea and river converge, and this functioned as a citadel. Fort Santiago has significantly served as military headquarters of Spanish, British, United States and Japan during different eras throughout the Philippine history.

In Fort Santiago, there are bastions on each corner of the triangular fort. The Baluarte de Santa Bárbara faces the bay and Pasig River; Baluarte de San Miguel, faces the bay; and the Medio Baluarte de San Francisco, which faces the Pasig River.[33]

Gates

 
The current Puerta Real (Royal Gate) was built in 1780 and was restored in 1969 with additional works made in 1989

Before the American Era, entrance to the city was through eight gates or Puertas namely (clockwise, from Fort Santiago) Puerta Almacenes, Puerta de la Aduana, Puerta de Santo Domingo, Puerta Isabel II, Puerta del Parian, Puerta Real, Puerta Sta. Lucia, and Puerta del Postigo.[34] Three of the gates were destroyed. Two of them, the Almacenes Gate and the Santo Domingo/Customs Gate, were destroyed by the American engineers when they open up the northern part of the walls to the wharves. The Banderas Gate was destroyed during an earthquake and was never rebuilt. Formerly, drawbridges were raised and the city was closed and under sentinels from 11:00 pm till 4:00 am. It continued so until 1852, when, in consequence of the earthquake of that year, it was decreed that the gates should thenceforth remain open night and day.[32]

Existing gates

English Spanish Description Orientation
Isabel II Gate Puerta de Isabel II Opened in 1861. Damaged during the Battle of Manila. Restored in 1966. North
Parián Gate Puerta del Parián Built in 1593. Damaged during the Battle of Manila. Restoration began on 1967 and was completed in 1982. East
Postigo Gate Puerta de Postigo Built in 1662. Damaged during the Battle of Manila. Restored in 1968. West
Royal Gate Puerta Real Built in 1663. Damaged during the Battle of Manila. Restored in 1969 with additional work made in 1989. South
Santa Lucia Gate Puerta de Santa Lucia Built in 1603. Destroyed during the Battle of Manila. Reconstructed in 1982. West

Destroyed gates

English Spanish Description Orientation
Almacenes Gate Puerta de Almacenes Built in 1690. Demolished in 1903 by American engineers for widening the river wharves along Intramuros. North
Banderas Gate Puerta de Banderas Constructed in 1662. It was destroyed during an earthquake and was never rebuilt. West
Santo Domingo Gate/Customs Gate Puerta de Santo Domingo/Puerta de Aduana Built in the 18th century during the renovation of the riverside defenses. It opened to the river wharves, but the American engineers tore down the gate & part of the Muralla walls in 1903 to open a road to Intramuros from Magallanes Drive. North

Present day Intramuros

Intramuros is the only district of Manila where old Spanish-era influences are still plentiful. Fort Santiago is now a well-maintained park and popular tourist destination. Adjacent to Fort Santiago is the reconstructed Maestranza Wall, which was removed by the Americans in 1903 to widen the wharves thus opening the city to Pasig River. One of the future plans of the Intramuros Administration is to complete the perimeter walls that surround the city making it completely circumnavigable from the walkway on top of the walls.[35]

There has been minimal commercialization occurring within the district, despite restoration efforts. A few fast food establishments set up shop at the turn of the 21st century, catering mostly to the student population within Intramuros. Shipping companies have also set up offices inside the district. Concerts, tours and exhibitions are frequently held within Intramuros to draw both local and foreign tourists.

Education

The center of education since the colonial period, Manila — particularly Intramuros — is home to several Philippine universities and colleges as well as its oldest ones. It served as the home of the University of Santo Tomas (1611), Colegio de San Juan de Letran (1620), Ateneo de Manila University (1859), Lyceum of the Philippines University and Mapúa University. The University of Santo Tomas transferred to a new campus at Sampaloc in 1927, and Ateneo left Intramuros for Loyola Heights, Quezon City (while still retaining "de Manila" in its name) in 1952.

New non-sectarian schools were established and built over the ruins after the war. The Pamantasan ng Lungsod ng Maynila, established in 1965 by the city government of Manila, was built at the site of the old Cuartel España (Spanish Barracks). The Lyceum of the Philippines University, a private university founded in 1952 by Philippine President Jose P. Laurel, was built over the lot of San Juan de Dios Hospital. The hospital moved out to Roxas Boulevard in Pasay. Mapúa Institute of Technology, which was founded in 1925 in Quiapo, Manila moved in Intramuros after the war. Its postwar campus was built on the location of the destroyed San Francisco Church and the Third Venerable Order Church at the corner of San Francisco and Solana Streets. The three new educational institutions, along with Colegio de San Juan de Letran formed an academic cooperation called the Intramuros Consortium.

Churches

Intramuros, as the seat of religious and political power during the colonial period, was the home to eight grand churches built by different religious orders. All but one of these churches were destroyed in the Battle of Manila. Only San Agustin Church, the oldest building in existence in Manila completed in 1607, was the only structure inside the Walled City not to be destroyed during the war. The Manila Cathedral, the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila, was reconstructed thereafter in 1958. The other religious orders reconstructed their churches outside Intramuros after the war. The Dominicans rebuilt Santo Domingo Church on Quezon Avenue in Quezon City. The Augustinian Recollects moved to their other church, the San Sebastian Church (now Basilica), 2.5-kilometer (1.6 mi) northeast of the Muralla, walled city. The Capuchins moved the Lourdes Church in 1951 to the corner of Kanlaon St. and Retiro St. (now Amoranto Ave.) in Quezon City. It was declared a National Shrine in 1997. The Order of Saint John of God moved to Roxas while the Order of Poor Clares in Aurora Boulevard. The San Ignacio Church and Convent is now currently being reconstructed as Museo de Intramuros, an ecclesiastical museum.


Monuments and statues

World War II as well as natural and man-made disasters destroyed a great many old buildings and statues throughout the country. It is by sheer luck that many Spanish period monuments have continued to survive the passage of time. The following are the ones we could still see today in Intramuros.

Monuments and statues in Intramuros
Name Image Location / GPS Coordinates Designers Year Notes
Adolfo López Mateos Statue Plaza Mexico
14°35′39″N 120°58′28″E / 14.59417°N 120.97444°E / 14.59417; 120.97444 (Plaza Mexico)
Anda Monument   Anda Circle 1871 Originally located at Plaza Maestranza near Fort Santiago. In 1957, the whole monument was transferred outside Intramuros to Bonifacio Drive, where it now stands in Anda Circle. In recent years it has been painted over, with the lower level vandalized with graffiti.
Benavides Monument Plaza Santo Tomas Tony Noël 1889 Replica; the undamaged original statue was transferred in 1946 to the Sampaloc Campus of the University of Santo Tomas, now fronting the Main Building. Its original marble pedestal had been completely obliterated during the Battle of Manila in 1945.
King Charles IV Monument   Plaza de Roma
14°35′32″N 120°58′23″E / 14.59222°N 120.97306°E / 14.59222; 120.97306 (King Charles IV Monument)
King Philip II Statue Plaza de España
14°35′36″N 120°58′28″E / 14.59333°N 120.97444°E / 14.59333; 120.97444 (King Philip II Statue)
Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument   Bonifacio Drive opposite the Manila Hotel Agustí Querol Subirats 1929 In 2012, some of its metal ornaments had been stolen and unscrupulously sold as scrap metal.
Memorare – Manila 1945 Memorial (Shrine of Freedom) Plazuela de Santa Isabel 1995 The inscription for the memorial was penned by National Artist for Literature Nick Joaquin.
Queen Isabel II Statue   Puerta Isabel II Ponciano Ponzano 1860 Formerly located at Plaza Rajah Sulayman in front of Malate Church. The statue was transferred in 1975 at the front of Puerta Isabel II during the visit of the then Prince Juan Carlos of Spain.
Rizal Statue Rizal Shrine

Structures before and after World War II

Name (Prewar) Image Name (Postwar) Image Note
Churches
Lourdes Church
(1892-1945)
El Amanecer Building  
San Francisco Church
(1739-1945)
  Mapúa University Campus
(Since 1956)
 
San Ignacio Church and Convent
(1899-1945)
  Museo de Intramuros
(Since 2018)
  The church and convent is being reconstructed as the Museo de Intramuros.
San Nicolas de Tolentino Church
(1739-1945)
Manila Bulletin Headquarters  
Santo Domingo Church
(1868-1945)
Bank of the Philippine Islands, Benlife Building, and Tuazon Building  
Third Venerable Order Church
(1733-1945)
  Mapúa University Chapel  
Schools and Convents
Ateneo de Manila University
(1859-1932)
  Tent   Transferred to its Padre Faura Campus (now Robinsons Place Manila) after a fire destroyed its Intramuros Campus in 1932. The school again transferred to its Loyola Heights Campus in 1976–77.
Beaterio de la Compania Light and Sound Museum Rebuilt as the Light and Sound Museum
Beaterio-Colegio de Santa Catalina Colegio de San Juan de Letran Campus   The school and convent transferred to its new campus in Legarda Street, Sampaloc. Its Intramuros lot was acquired by the Colegio de San Juan de Letran to expand its postwar campus.
Colegio de Santa Isabel
(1632-1945)
Vacant Lot, and Plazuela de Santa Isabel Colegio de Santa Isabel transferred to its new postwar campus on Taft Avenue just outside the city walls.
Real Colegio de Santa Potenciana   National Commission for Culture and the Arts, Philippine Red Cross (Manila Chapter), Philippine Veterans Building, and the Insurance Center Building
Santa Clara Monastery Vacant Lot
University of Santo Tomas   BF Condominiums   UST transferred to its Sampaloc Campus in 1927. The College of Law remained at Intramuros. However, after the war, the university decided not to rebuild its Intramuros Campus.
Other Buildings
Cuartel de España
(Spanish Barracks)
University of the City of Manila  
Hospital de San Juan de Dios Lyceum of the Philippines University  
Palacio de Santa Potenciana Philippine Red Cross  

Barangays

Intramuros is made up of five Barangays numbered 654, 655, 656, 657 and 658. These five barangays only serve the welfare of the city's constituents because they have no executive and legislative power. The Intramuros Administration oversee the day-to-day administration of the district, including the issuance of building permits, traffic re-routing, among others.

Barangays 654, 655, and 656 are part of Zone 69 of the City of Manila and barangays 657 and 658 are part of Zone 70.

Barangays of Intramuros
Barangay Population (2015)[1]
Barangay 654 1,137
Barangay 655 1,671
Barangay 656 369
Barangay 657 677
Barangay 658 2,081

Intramuros Administration

 
Modernist buildings can also be seen in Intramuros (bottom). The district has been criticized as an example of inauthentic Spanish colonial period design.

The Intramuros Administration (IA) is an agency of the Department of Tourism that is mandated to orderly restore, administer, and develop the historic walled area of Intramuros that is situated within the modern City of Manila as well as to insure that the 16th to 19th century Philippine-Spanish architecture remains the general architectural style of the walled area.[36] Its office is located at Palacio del Gobernador in Plaza Roma.[37]

Criticism

After World War II, all buildings inside Intramuros were destroyed, with only the San Agustin Church left standing. Intramuros was rebuilt with Spanish colonial style. Numerous architects, urban planners and professors are critical of the way Intramuros was restored, describing it as frozen in time. Others, however are comparing it to a theme park that is inspired by the Spanish colonial period.[citation needed]

Buildings and structures in Intramuros were criticized for not being authentic in their design that is supposed to be inspired by the Bahay na Bato or the prevailing prewar architectural style. Several design elements from the Spanish colonial period were not present in the postwar building constructions. There are also no buildings from the Spanish colonial period inside Intramuros that is a candidate for adaptive reuse since all of them were destroyed during the war. Despite the design flaws, construction and remodeling of several buildings were approved by the Intramuros Administration.[citation needed]

Gallery

See also

Spanish forts of the Philippines

Intramuros Administration

Points of interest

Intramuros-related history

References

Citations

  1. ^ a b "Highlights of the Philippine Population 2015 Census of Population". Philippine Statistics Authority. Retrieved July 11, 2017.
  2. ^ "Presidential Decree No. 1616, s. 1979". Official Gazette of the Republic of the Philippines. Retrieved July 12, 2017.
  3. ^ a b Journal of American Folklore, Volumes 17-18. United States: American Folklore Society. 1904. p. 283. ISBN 1248746058. Retrieved August 12, 2012.
  4. ^ O'Connell, Daniel (1908). Manila, the Pearl of the Orient. Manila Merchants' Association. p. 20. ISBN 0217014798. Retrieved August 12, 2012.
  5. ^ "SCHOOLS - INTRAMUROS JOURNEY". discoverintramuros.weebly.com. Retrieved June 18, 2020.
  6. ^ Sembrano, Edgar Allan M. (October 8, 2018). "Intramuros, Fort San Antonio Abad declared National Cultural Treasures". Philippine Daily Inquirer. Retrieved November 12, 2018.
  7. ^ a b Torres, Jose Victor (2005). Ciudad Murada, A Walk Through Historic Intramuros. Vibal Publishing House. p. 5. ISBN 971-07-2276-X.
  8. ^ a b U.S. War Department 1903, p. 435.
  9. ^ "Escolta Maestros: 6 Filipino architects who shaped the old CBD". April 16, 2018.
  10. ^ a b Torres, Jose Victor (2005). Ciudad Murada, A Walk Through Historic Intramuros. Vibal Publishing House. p. 6. ISBN 971-07-2276-X.
  11. ^ U.S. War Department 1903, p. 436.
  12. ^ "Baluarte de San Diego". Intramuros, the Walled City. Retrieved on November 13, 2011.
  13. ^ "History". Ateneo de Manila University. Retrieved on October 11, 2012.
  14. ^ Barrows, David (2014). "A History of the Philippines". Guttenburg Free Online E-books. 1: 179. Within the walls, there were some six hundred houses of a private nature, most of them built of stone and tile, and an equal number outside in the suburbs, or “arrabales,” all occupied by Spaniards (“todos son vivienda y poblacion de los Españoles”). This gives some twelve hundred Spanish families or establishments, exclusive of the religious, who in Manila numbered at least one hundred and fifty, the garrison, at certain times, about four hundred trained Spanish soldiers who had seen service in Holland and the Low Countries, and the official classes.
  15. ^ City of Manila. "Annual Report of the City of Manila, 1905", p.71. Manila Bureau of Printing.
  16. ^ "Manila High School". The Historical Marker Database. Retrieved on October 11, 2012.
  17. ^ Ramsey, Russell Wilcox (1993). "On Law & Country", pg. 41. Braden Publishing Company, Boston.
  18. ^ Esperanza Bunag Gatbonton. (PDF). Philippine Academic Consortium for Latin American Studies. Archived from the original (PDF) on December 24, 2013. Retrieved December 23, 2013.
  19. ^ a b . The Battling Bastards of Bataan (battlingbastardsbataan.com). Archived from the original on August 20, 2010. Retrieved August 7, 2010.
  20. ^ Bernad, Miguel A. . California, USA: Philippine American Literary House (palhbooks.com). PALH Book. Archived from the original on June 19, 2010. Retrieved August 7, 2010.
  21. ^ Quezon III, Manuel L. (February 7, 2007). . Jeddah, Saudi Arabia: Arab News Online (archive.arabnews.com). Opinion. Archived from the original on March 30, 2012. Retrieved August 7, 2010.
  22. ^ "History of Intramuros". Intramuros, the Walled City. Retrieved on September 14, 2011.
  23. ^ "Presidential Decree no. 1616". The LawPhil Project. Retrieved on April 4, 2012.
  24. ^ Pedrasa, Ira (December 6, 2014). "Manila Cathedral: The basilica of popes". ABS-CBN News. Retrieved April 6, 2019.
  25. ^ "Anthology: Stories About Architecture". WTA Architecture + Design Studio. Retrieved April 6, 2019.
  26. ^ Tantiangco, Aya (March 16, 2018). "Seven stops for Visita Iglesia in Intramuros open for the first time since WWII". GMA News. GMA News Online. Retrieved March 20, 2018.
  27. ^ Rocamora, Joyce Ann L. (March 15, 2018). "3 big Lenten events lined up in Intramuros". Philippine News Agency. Retrieved March 20, 2018.
  28. ^ Arnaldo, Ma. Stella F. (April 3, 2018). "Intramuros welcomed 1 million Catholic faithful during Holy Week". BusinessMirror. Retrieved April 4, 2018.
  29. ^ "Faith tourism: 1 million people visited Intramuros during Holy Week". ABS-CBN News. April 2, 2018. Retrieved April 4, 2018.
  30. ^ "iMake History Fortress LEGO Education Center opens in Intramuros". Intramuros Administration. Retrieved April 26, 2018.
  31. ^ "Rizal Park, Intramuros sites temporarily closed amid COVID-19 spread". Manila Bulletin. Retrieved March 16, 2020.
  32. ^ a b U.S. War Department 1903, p.443.
  33. ^ "Intramuros Walkthrough". Intramuros, the Walled City. Retrieved on October 1, 2011.
  34. ^ "IA Trivia - Eight main gates of Intramuros". Intramuros, the Walled City. Retrieved on September 14, 2011.
  35. ^ philstarcom (June 18, 2010). "Maestranza Wall Restoration". YouTube.com. Retrieved on 2011-09-18.
  36. ^ FY OPIF 2009 (PDF). Department of Budget and Management. 2009. p. 494. Retrieved November 15, 2017.
  37. ^ "Contact Us". Intramuros Administration. Retrieved November 15, 2017.

Sources

  • U.S. War Department (1903). "Annual Reports of the War Department, 1903 Vol. III". Washington Government Printing Office, 1901.

External links

  • Intramuros Administration – Official website
  •   Geographic data related to Intramuros at OpenStreetMap

intramuros, latin, inside, walls, square, kilometer, historic, walled, area, within, city, manila, capital, philippines, administered, administration, with, help, city, government, manila, district, manila, historic, walled, cityclockwise, from, left, manila, . Intramuros Latin for inside the walls is the 0 67 square kilometer 0 26 sq mi historic walled area within the city of Manila the capital of the Philippines It is administered by the Intramuros Administration with the help of the city government of Manila 2 IntramurosDistrict of Manila and Historic Walled CityClockwise from top left Manila Cathedral Baluarte de San Diego Plaza San Luis Complex Palacio del Gobernador Fort Santiago San Agustin ChurchLogo of the Intramuros AdministrationNickname s Old Manila the Walled CityMotto s Insigne y siempre lealDistinguished and ever loyalIntramurosCoordinates 14 35 29 N 120 58 25 E 14 59147 N 120 97356 E 14 59147 120 97356 Coordinates 14 35 29 N 120 58 25 E 14 59147 N 120 97356 E 14 59147 120 97356CountryPhilippinesRegionNational Capital RegionCityManilaCongressional District5th District of ManilaSettledJune 12 1571 1571 June 12 Founded byMiguel Lopez de LegazpiGovernment Administrator of IntramurosGuiller AsidoArea Total0 67 km2 0 26 sq mi Population 2015 1 Total5 935 Density8 900 km2 23 000 sq mi Time zoneUTC 08 00 Philippine Standard Time Zip codes1002Area codes2Websiteintramuros wbr gov wbr phPresent day Intramuros comprises a centuries old historic district entirely surrounded by fortifications that was considered at the time of the Spanish Empire to be the entire City of Manila Other towns and arrabales suburbs located beyond the walls that are now districts of Manila were referred to as extramuros Latin for outside the walls 3 4 and were independent towns that were only incorporated into the city of Manila during the early 20th century Intramuros served as the seat of government of the Captaincy General of the Philippines a component realm of the Spanish Empire housing the colony s governor general from its founding in 1571 until 1865 and the Real Audiencia of Manila until the end of Spanish rule during the Philippine Revolution of 1898 The walled city was also considered the religious and educational center of the Spanish East Indies The original campuses of the University of Santo Tomas the oldest university in Asia and the Ateneo de Manila were in Intramuros before transferring in 1927 and 1932 respectively today the area still contains the main campuses of the University of the City of Manila the Colegio de San Juan de Letran Mapua University Philippine Nautical Training Colleges the Colegio de Santa Rosa and the Manila High School 5 Intramuros was also an economic center its port in what is now Plaza Mexico was the Asian hub of the Manila galleon trade carrying goods to and from Acapulco in what is now Mexico Construction of the Spanish walled city began under the orders of the Spanish imperial government in the late 16th century to protect the city from foreign invasions replacing the old prehispanic settlement of Maynila along the shores of the Manila Bay by the entrance to the Pasig River Near the mouth of the Pasig River is Fort Santiago which along with a series of bulwarks and gates fortified the city from repeated invasions During the early 20th century under the administration of American colonial authorities land reclamation and the construction of the Manila South Port subsequently moved the coastline westward and obscured the walls and fort from the bay while the moat surrounding the fortifications was drained and turned into a recreational golf course The Battle of Manila in 1945 entirely flattened Intramuros As the occupying Japanese Imperial Army made their last stand against the victorious efforts of Allied soldiers and Filipino guerrillas heavy artillery bombardment destroyed its eight churches walls universities houses and government buildings constructed for centuries in Spanish colonial architecture only the San Agustin Church the oldest standing church in the Philippines survived intact and was later made a UNESCO World Heritage Site Though reconstruction efforts began immediately after the war many of its original landmarks are still lost today under the Intramuros Administration Intramuros is still in the process of postwar reconstruction and revival of its cultural heritage Intramuros including Fort Santiago was designated a National Historical Landmark in 1951 The fortifications of Intramuros under the name Fortifications of Manila were declared National Cultural Treasures by the National Museum of the Philippines owing to its historic and cultural significance 6 San Agustin Church one of four UNESCO World Heritage Sites under the entry Baroque Churches of the Philippines is located within Intramuros Several Philippine government agencies are headquartered in Intramuros the Bureau of the Treasury is located in the Ayuntamiento the old municipal hall of Manila while the Commission on Elections is housed in an office building at Plaza Roma at the site of the old governor s palace Several offices of the Catholic Church including the Archdiocese of Manila and the Catholic Bishops Conference of the Philippines are also found at or near Manila Cathedral Contents 1 History 1 1 Pre Hispanic period 1 2 Spanish Colonial Period 1571 1898 1 2 1 Spanish conquest of Manila 1571 1762 1 2 2 Construction of the city walls 1 2 3 Inside colonial Intramuros 1 3 American period 1898 1946 1 3 1 World War II and Japanese occupation 1 4 Contemporary period 1946 present 2 City walls 2 1 Defense structures 3 Gates 3 1 Existing gates 3 2 Destroyed gates 4 Present day Intramuros 4 1 Education 4 2 Churches 4 3 Monuments and statues 5 Structures before and after World War II 6 Barangays 7 Intramuros Administration 7 1 Criticism 8 Gallery 9 See also 10 References 10 1 Citations 10 2 Sources 11 External linksHistory EditMain article History of Manila Pre Hispanic period Edit For the polity of Maynila see Maynila historical polity The strategic location of Manila along the bay and at the mouth of Pasig River made it an ideal location for the Tagalog tribes and kingdoms to trade with merchants from what would be today s China India Borneo and Indonesia At present day Fort Santiago is where the polity of Maynila was located Spanish Colonial Period 1571 1898 Edit Further information History of the Philippines 1521 1898 Spanish conquest of Manila 1571 1762 Edit This section does not cite any sources Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources Unsourced material may be challenged and removed December 2020 Learn how and when to remove this template message The sketch of the Plaza de Roma Manila by Fernando Brambila a member of the Malaspina Expedition during their stop in Manila in 1792 Plaza Santo Tomas is where the Santo Domingo Church Colegio de Santa Rosa and the original University of Santo Tomas were built during the Spanish Colonial Period In 1564 Spanish explorers led by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi sailed from New Spain now Mexico and arrived on the island of Cebu on February 13 1565 establishing the first Spanish colony in the Philippines Having heard from the natives about the rich resources in Manila Legazpi dispatched two of his lieutenant commanders Martin de Goiti and Juan de Salcedo to explore the island of Luzon The Spaniards arrived on the island of Luzon in 1570 After quarrels and misunderstandings between the Muslim natives and the Spaniards they fought for control of the land and settlements After several months of warfare the natives were defeated and the Spaniards made a peace pact with the councils of Rajah Sulaiman III Lakan Dula and Rajah Matanda who handed over Manila to the Spaniards A 1734 map of Intramuros from the Carta Hydrographica y Chorographica de las Yslas Filipinas An 1851 map of Intramuros Legazpi declared the area of Manila as the new capital of the Spanish colony on June 24 1571 because of its strategic location and rich resources He also proclaimed the sovereignty of the Monarchy of Spain over the whole archipelago King Philip II of Spain delighted at the new conquest achieved by Legazpi and his men awarding the city a coat of arms and declaring it as Ciudad Insigne y Siempre Leal English Distinguished and Ever Loyal City It was settled and became the political military and religious center of the Spanish Empire in Asia Construction of the city walls Edit Puerta de Santa Lucia in 1873 Baluarte de San Diego The city was in constant danger of natural and man made disasters and worse attacks from foreign invaders In 1574 a fleet of Chinese pirates led by Limahong attacked the city and destroyed it before the Spaniards drove them away The colony had to be rebuilt again by the survivors 7 These attacks prompted the construction of the wall The city of stone began during the rule of Governor General Santiago de Vera 8 The city was planned and executed by Jesuit Priest Antonio Sedeno 7 in accordance to the Laws of the Indies and was approved by King Philip II s Royal Ordinance that was issued in San Lorenzo de El Escorial Spain The succeeding governor general Gomez Perez Dasmarinas brought with him from Spain the royal instructions to carry into effect the said decree stating that to enclose the city with stone and erect a suitable fort at the junction of the sea and river Leonardo Iturriano a Spanish military engineer specializing in fortifications headed the project Chinese and Filipino workers built the walls Main entrance of Fort Santiago Intramuros Fort Santiago was rebuilt and a circular fort known as Nuestra Senora de Guia was erected to defend the land and sea on the southwestern side of the city Funds came from a monopoly on playing cards and fines imposed on its excessive play Chinese goods were taxed for two years Designed by Geronimo Tongco and Pedro Jusepe 9 construction of the walls began on 1590 and continued under many governor generals until 1872 By the middle of 1592 Dasmarinas wrote the King about the satisfactory development of the new walls and fortification 10 Since the construction was carried on during different periods and often far apart the walls were not built according to any uniform plan 8 Improvements continued during the terms of the succeeding Governor Generals Governor General Juan de Silva executed certain work on the fortifications in 1609 which was improved by Juan Nino de Tabora in 1626 and by Diego Fajardo Chacon in 1644 The erection of the Baluarte de San Diego was also completed that year This bastion shaped like an ace of spades is the southernmost point of the wall and the first of the large bastions added to the encircling walls then of no great height nor of finished construction 11 It was the former site of Nuestra Senora de Guia the very first stone fort of Manila 12 Ravelins and reductos were added to strengthen weak areas and serve as outer defenses A moat was built around the city with the Pasig River serving as a natural barrier on one side By the 18th century the city was totally enclosed The last construction works were completed by the start of the 19th century 10 Inside colonial Intramuros Edit Plaza de Roma was the main square of the Walled City Casa Manila is an example of Bahay na bato architecture The main square of the city of Manila was Plaza Mayor later known as Plaza McKinley then Plaza de Roma in front of the Manila Cathedral East of the plaza was the Ayuntamiento City Hall and facing it was the Palacio del Gobernador the official residence of the Spanish viceroyalties to the Philippines An earthquake on June 3 1863 destroyed the three buildings and much of the city The residence of the Governor General was moved to Malacanang Palace located about 3 km 1 9 mi up on the Pasig River The two previous buildings were later rebuilt but not the Governor s Palace Inside the walls were other Roman Catholic churches the oldest being San Agustin Church Augustinians built in 1607 The other churches built by the different religious orders San Nicolas de Tolentino Church Recollects San Francisco Church Franciscans Third Venerable Order Church Third Order of St Francis Santo Domingo Church Dominican Lourdes Church Capuchins and the San Ignacio Church Jesuits has made the small walled city the City of Churches Intramuros was the center of large educational institutions in the country 3 Convents and church run schools were established by the different religious orders The Dominicans established the Universidad de Santo Tomas in 1611 and the Colegio de San Juan de Letran in 1620 The Jesuits established the Universidad de San Ignacio in 1590 the first university in the country but closed in 1768 following the expulsion of the Jesuits in the country After the Jesuits were allowed to return to the Philippines they established the Ateneo Municipal de Manila in 1859 13 In the initial period of colonization there were a total of 1200 Spanish families living in the vicinity of Intramuros 600 Spanish families within the walls and another 600 living in the suburbs outside Intramuros In addition to this were about 400 Spanish soldiers garrisoned at the walled city 14 American period 1898 1946 Edit 1902 photo taking by a US Military Personnel showing Spanish artillery Aerial view of the Walled City 1939 After the end of the Spanish American War Spain surrendered the Philippines and several other territories to the United States as part of the terms of the Treaty of Paris for 20 million The American flag was raised at Fort Santiago on August 13 1898 indicating the start of American rule over the city The Ayuntamiento became the seat of the Philippine Commission of the United States in 1901 while Fort Santiago became the headquarters of the Philippine Division of the United States Army The Americans made drastic changes to the city such as in 1903 when the walls from the Santo Domingo Gate up to the Almacenes Gate were removed as the wharf on the southern bank of the Pasig River was improved The stones removed were used for other construction happening around the city The walls were also breached in four areas to ease access to the city the southwestern end of Calle Aduana now Andres Soriano Jr Ave the eastern end of Calle Anda the northeastern end of Calle Victoria previously known as Calle de la Escuela and the southeastern end of Calle Palacio now General Luna Street The double moats that surrounded Intramuros were deemed unsanitary and were filled in with mud dredged from Manila Bay where the present Port of Manila is now located The moats were transformed into a municipal golf course by the city Reclamations for the construction of the Port of Manila the Manila Hotel and Rizal Park obscured the old walls and skyline of the city from the Manila Bay 15 The Americans also founded the first school under the new government the Manila High School on June 11 1906 along Victoria Street 16 In 1936 Commonwealth Act No 171 was passed requiring that all future buildings to be constructed in Intramuros adopt Spanish colonial type architecture World War II and Japanese occupation Edit Destruction of the Walled City in the aftermath of the Battle of Manila In December 1941 the Imperial Japanese Army invaded the Philippines The first casualties in Intramuros brought by the war were the destruction of Santo Domingo Church and the original University of Santo Tomas campus during an assault The whole city of Manila was declared by General Douglas MacArthur as an Open City as Manila was indefensible In 1945 the battle for the liberation of Manila began when American troops tried to occupy Manila in January 1945 Intense urban fighting occurred between the combined American and Filipino troops under the United States Army and Philippine Commonwealth Army including recognized guerrillas against the 30 000 Japanese defenders As the battle continued both sides inflicted heavy damage on the city culminating with the Manila massacre by Japanese troops The Imperial Japanese Army was pushed back eventually retreating into the Intramuros district General MacArthur though opposed to the bombing of the walled city approved the heavy shelling which resulted in deaths of over 16 665 Japanese alone within Intramuros 17 Two of the eight gates of Intramuros were badly damaged by American tanks The bombings leveled most of Intramuros leaving only 5 of the city structures the walls lost 40 to the bombings 18 19 Over 100 000 Filipino men women and children died from February 3 to March 3 1945 during the Battle of Manila At the end of World War II all of the buildings and structures in Intramuros were destroyed with only the damaged San Agustin Church still standing 19 20 21 Contemporary period 1946 present Edit Ayuntamiento de Manila Intramuros and South Harbor in 2018 The Bayleaf Intramuros Hotel is an exemplary model for adaptive reuse of postwar buildings In 1951 Intramuros was declared a historical monument and Fort Santiago a national shrine with Republic Act 597 with the policy of restoring reconstructing and urban planning of Intramuros In 1956 Republic Act 1607 declared Intramuros a commercial residential and educational district opening up the district to development disregarding the historicity of the area The same law also repealed Commonwealth Act No 171 and Republic Act No 597 Several laws and decrees also followed but results were deemed unsatisfactory due to limited funds 22 In 1979 the Intramuros Administration IA was created by virtue of Presidential Decree No 1616 signed by President Ferdinand Marcos on April 10 of that year 23 Since then the IA has been slowly restoring the walls the sub features of the fortification and the city within The remaining five original gates have been restored or rebuilt Isabel II Gate Parian Gate Real Gate Santa Lucia Gate and the Postigo Gate The entrances made by the Americans by breaching the walls at four locations are now spanned by walkways thereby creating a connection seamless in design and character to the original walls Buildings destroyed during the war were subsequently rebuild Manila Cathedral was rebuilt and was opened to the public in 1958 Ayuntamiento de Manila was rebuilt in 2013 while the San Ignacio Church and Convent is currently being reconstructed as the Museo de Intramuros In January 2015 during Pope Francis s visit to the Philippines he led a mass at the Manila Cathedral that was attended by an estimated 2 000 bishops priests and religious leaders of the Philippine Catholic Church 24 Anthology an annual 3 day festival about architecture and design was first launched in June 2016 at Intramuros Since then it has been renting Fort Santiago as a venue where seminars and other activities were held with guest speakers from local and international people from the field of architecture and design 25 It is made possible through the partnership of WTA Architecture Design Studio and the Intramuros Administration who are also responsible for the critically acclaimed the Book Stop Intramuros located in Plaza Roma The Department of Tourism along with the Intramuros Administration launched the first major project of the newly created Faith Sector that focuses on the historic and cultural religious wealth of the Walled City For the 2018 lenten season seven religious destinations can be visited For the first time since World War II Visita Iglesia is once again possible in Intramuros The seven destinations are the Manila Cathedral San Agustin Church San Ignacio Church Guadalupe Shrine in Fort Santiago Knights of Columbus Fr Willman Chapel Lyceum of the Philippines University Chapel and the Mapua University Chapel The event pays homage to the original seven churches during the prewar Intramuros 26 27 The 2018 lenten season event draws over 1 million people from both foreign and local tourists in Intramuros 28 29 The Intramuros Administration together with the Royal Danish Embassy in Manila and Felta Multimedia Inc opened the iMake History Fortress at the Baluarte de Santa Barbara in Fort Santiago last March 19 2018 The facility is the first history based Lego education center in the world 30 The COVID 19 pandemic in March 2020 caused the Intramuros Administration to temporarily close several sites within Intramuros including Fort Santiago Museo de Intramuros and Casa Manila 31 City walls Edit Atop City Walls of Intramuros The outline of the defensive wall of Intramuros is irregular in shape following the contours of Manila Bay and the curvature of the Pasig River The Muralla walls covered an area of 64 hectares 160 acres of land surrounded by 8 feet 2 4 m thick stones and high walls that rise to 22 feet 6 7 m The walls stretched to an estimated 3 5 kilometers in length An inner moat foso surrounds the perimeter of the wall and an outer moat contrafoso surrounds the walls that face the city Defense structures Edit Watchtower of the Baluarte de San Andres Several bulwarks baluarte ravelins ravellin and redoubts reductos are strategically located along the massive walls of Intramuros following the design of medieval fortifications The seven bastions clockwise from Fort Santiago are the Bastions of Tenerias Aduana San Gabriel San Lorenzo San Andres San Diego and Plano 32 The bastions were constructed at different periods of time the reason for the differences in style The oldest bastion is the Bastion de San Diego which was built in 1587 The fortifications of Intramuros comprises several parts the front facing the sea and the river which were less elaborate and complex and the three sided land front with its corresponding bastions Fort Santiago was built at the northwest tip where the sea and river converge and this functioned as a citadel Fort Santiago has significantly served as military headquarters of Spanish British United States and Japan during different eras throughout the Philippine history In Fort Santiago there are bastions on each corner of the triangular fort The Baluarte de Santa Barbara faces the bay and Pasig River Baluarte de San Miguel faces the bay and the Medio Baluarte de San Francisco which faces the Pasig River 33 Gates EditMain article Gates of Intramuros The current Puerta Real Royal Gate was built in 1780 and was restored in 1969 with additional works made in 1989 Before the American Era entrance to the city was through eight gates or Puertas namely clockwise from Fort Santiago Puerta Almacenes Puerta de la Aduana Puerta de Santo Domingo Puerta Isabel II Puerta del Parian Puerta Real Puerta Sta Lucia and Puerta del Postigo 34 Three of the gates were destroyed Two of them the Almacenes Gate and the Santo Domingo Customs Gate were destroyed by the American engineers when they open up the northern part of the walls to the wharves The Banderas Gate was destroyed during an earthquake and was never rebuilt Formerly drawbridges were raised and the city was closed and under sentinels from 11 00 pm till 4 00 am It continued so until 1852 when in consequence of the earthquake of that year it was decreed that the gates should thenceforth remain open night and day 32 Existing gates Edit English Spanish Description OrientationIsabel II Gate Puerta de Isabel II Opened in 1861 Damaged during the Battle of Manila Restored in 1966 NorthParian Gate Puerta del Parian Built in 1593 Damaged during the Battle of Manila Restoration began on 1967 and was completed in 1982 EastPostigo Gate Puerta de Postigo Built in 1662 Damaged during the Battle of Manila Restored in 1968 WestRoyal Gate Puerta Real Built in 1663 Damaged during the Battle of Manila Restored in 1969 with additional work made in 1989 SouthSanta Lucia Gate Puerta de Santa Lucia Built in 1603 Destroyed during the Battle of Manila Reconstructed in 1982 WestDestroyed gates Edit English Spanish Description OrientationAlmacenes Gate Puerta de Almacenes Built in 1690 Demolished in 1903 by American engineers for widening the river wharves along Intramuros NorthBanderas Gate Puerta de Banderas Constructed in 1662 It was destroyed during an earthquake and was never rebuilt WestSanto Domingo Gate Customs Gate Puerta de Santo Domingo Puerta de Aduana Built in the 18th century during the renovation of the riverside defenses It opened to the river wharves but the American engineers tore down the gate amp part of the Muralla walls in 1903 to open a road to Intramuros from Magallanes Drive NorthPresent day Intramuros Edit Aduana Building ruins Intramuros is the only district of Manila where old Spanish era influences are still plentiful Fort Santiago is now a well maintained park and popular tourist destination Adjacent to Fort Santiago is the reconstructed Maestranza Wall which was removed by the Americans in 1903 to widen the wharves thus opening the city to Pasig River One of the future plans of the Intramuros Administration is to complete the perimeter walls that surround the city making it completely circumnavigable from the walkway on top of the walls 35 There has been minimal commercialization occurring within the district despite restoration efforts A few fast food establishments set up shop at the turn of the 21st century catering mostly to the student population within Intramuros Shipping companies have also set up offices inside the district Concerts tours and exhibitions are frequently held within Intramuros to draw both local and foreign tourists Education Edit See also Intramuros Consortium The center of education since the colonial period Manila particularly Intramuros is home to several Philippine universities and colleges as well as its oldest ones It served as the home of the University of Santo Tomas 1611 Colegio de San Juan de Letran 1620 Ateneo de Manila University 1859 Lyceum of the Philippines University and Mapua University The University of Santo Tomas transferred to a new campus at Sampaloc in 1927 and Ateneo left Intramuros for Loyola Heights Quezon City while still retaining de Manila in its name in 1952 New non sectarian schools were established and built over the ruins after the war The Pamantasan ng Lungsod ng Maynila established in 1965 by the city government of Manila was built at the site of the old Cuartel Espana Spanish Barracks The Lyceum of the Philippines University a private university founded in 1952 by Philippine President Jose P Laurel was built over the lot of San Juan de Dios Hospital The hospital moved out to Roxas Boulevard in Pasay Mapua Institute of Technology which was founded in 1925 in Quiapo Manila moved in Intramuros after the war Its postwar campus was built on the location of the destroyed San Francisco Church and the Third Venerable Order Church at the corner of San Francisco and Solana Streets The three new educational institutions along with Colegio de San Juan de Letran formed an academic cooperation called the Intramuros Consortium Colegio de San Juan de Letran Colegio de Santa Rosa Lyceum of the Philippines University Manila High School Aerial photo of the Campus of Mapua University University of the City of ManilaChurches Edit Intramuros as the seat of religious and political power during the colonial period was the home to eight grand churches built by different religious orders All but one of these churches were destroyed in the Battle of Manila Only San Agustin Church the oldest building in existence in Manila completed in 1607 was the only structure inside the Walled City not to be destroyed during the war The Manila Cathedral the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila was reconstructed thereafter in 1958 The other religious orders reconstructed their churches outside Intramuros after the war The Dominicans rebuilt Santo Domingo Church on Quezon Avenue in Quezon City The Augustinian Recollects moved to their other church the San Sebastian Church now Basilica 2 5 kilometer 1 6 mi northeast of the Muralla walled city The Capuchins moved the Lourdes Church in 1951 to the corner of Kanlaon St and Retiro St now Amoranto Ave in Quezon City It was declared a National Shrine in 1997 The Order of Saint John of God moved to Roxas while the Order of Poor Clares in Aurora Boulevard The San Ignacio Church and Convent is now currently being reconstructed as Museo de Intramuros an ecclesiastical museum Manila Cathedral is the seat of Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila The basilica has merited a papal endorsement from Pope Gregory XIII and three apostolic visits from Pope Paul VI Pope John Paul II and Pope Francis The San Agustin Church a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the collective title Baroque Churches of the Philippines Monuments and statues Edit World War II as well as natural and man made disasters destroyed a great many old buildings and statues throughout the country It is by sheer luck that many Spanish period monuments have continued to survive the passage of time The following are the ones we could still see today in Intramuros Monuments and statues in Intramuros Name Image Location GPS Coordinates Designers Year NotesAdolfo Lopez Mateos Statue Plaza Mexico14 35 39 N 120 58 28 E 14 59417 N 120 97444 E 14 59417 120 97444 Plaza Mexico Anda Monument Anda Circle 1871 Originally located at Plaza Maestranza near Fort Santiago In 1957 the whole monument was transferred outside Intramuros to Bonifacio Drive where it now stands in Anda Circle In recent years it has been painted over with the lower level vandalized with graffiti Benavides Monument Plaza Santo Tomas Tony Noel 1889 Replica the undamaged original statue was transferred in 1946 to the Sampaloc Campus of the University of Santo Tomas now fronting the Main Building Its original marble pedestal had been completely obliterated during the Battle of Manila in 1945 King Charles IV Monument Plaza de Roma14 35 32 N 120 58 23 E 14 59222 N 120 97306 E 14 59222 120 97306 King Charles IV Monument King Philip II Statue Plaza de Espana14 35 36 N 120 58 28 E 14 59333 N 120 97444 E 14 59333 120 97444 King Philip II Statue Legazpi Urdaneta Monument Bonifacio Drive opposite the Manila Hotel Agusti Querol Subirats 1929 In 2012 some of its metal ornaments had been stolen and unscrupulously sold as scrap metal Memorare Manila 1945 Memorial Shrine of Freedom Plazuela de Santa Isabel 1995 The inscription for the memorial was penned by National Artist for Literature Nick Joaquin Queen Isabel II Statue Puerta Isabel II Ponciano Ponzano 1860 Formerly located at Plaza Rajah Sulayman in front of Malate Church The statue was transferred in 1975 at the front of Puerta Isabel II during the visit of the then Prince Juan Carlos of Spain Rizal Statue Rizal ShrineStructures before and after World War II EditName Prewar Image Name Postwar Image NoteChurchesLourdes Church 1892 1945 El Amanecer Building San Francisco Church 1739 1945 Mapua University Campus Since 1956 San Ignacio Church and Convent 1899 1945 Museo de Intramuros Since 2018 The church and convent is being reconstructed as the Museo de Intramuros San Nicolas de Tolentino Church 1739 1945 Manila Bulletin Headquarters Santo Domingo Church 1868 1945 Bank of the Philippine Islands Benlife Building and Tuazon Building Third Venerable Order Church 1733 1945 Mapua University Chapel Schools and ConventsAteneo de Manila University 1859 1932 Tent Transferred to its Padre Faura Campus now Robinsons Place Manila after a fire destroyed its Intramuros Campus in 1932 The school again transferred to its Loyola Heights Campus in 1976 77 Beaterio de la Compania Light and Sound Museum Rebuilt as the Light and Sound MuseumBeaterio Colegio de Santa Catalina Colegio de San Juan de Letran Campus The school and convent transferred to its new campus in Legarda Street Sampaloc Its Intramuros lot was acquired by the Colegio de San Juan de Letran to expand its postwar campus Colegio de Santa Isabel 1632 1945 Vacant Lot and Plazuela de Santa Isabel Colegio de Santa Isabel transferred to its new postwar campus on Taft Avenue just outside the city walls Real Colegio de Santa Potenciana National Commission for Culture and the Arts Philippine Red Cross Manila Chapter Philippine Veterans Building and the Insurance Center BuildingSanta Clara Monastery Vacant LotUniversity of Santo Tomas BF Condominiums UST transferred to its Sampaloc Campus in 1927 The College of Law remained at Intramuros However after the war the university decided not to rebuild its Intramuros Campus Other BuildingsCuartel de Espana Spanish Barracks University of the City of Manila Hospital de San Juan de Dios Lyceum of the Philippines University Palacio de Santa Potenciana Philippine Red Cross Barangays EditIntramuros is made up of five Barangays numbered 654 655 656 657 and 658 These five barangays only serve the welfare of the city s constituents because they have no executive and legislative power The Intramuros Administration oversee the day to day administration of the district including the issuance of building permits traffic re routing among others Barangays 654 655 and 656 are part of Zone 69 of the City of Manila and barangays 657 and 658 are part of Zone 70 Barangays of Intramuros Barangay Population 2015 1 Barangay 654 1 137Barangay 655 1 671Barangay 656 369Barangay 657 677Barangay 658 2 081Intramuros Administration EditMain article Intramuros Administration Modernist buildings can also be seen in Intramuros bottom The district has been criticized as an example of inauthentic Spanish colonial period design The Intramuros Administration IA is an agency of the Department of Tourism that is mandated to orderly restore administer and develop the historic walled area of Intramuros that is situated within the modern City of Manila as well as to insure that the 16th to 19th century Philippine Spanish architecture remains the general architectural style of the walled area 36 Its office is located at Palacio del Gobernador in Plaza Roma 37 Criticism Edit After World War II all buildings inside Intramuros were destroyed with only the San Agustin Church left standing Intramuros was rebuilt with Spanish colonial style Numerous architects urban planners and professors are critical of the way Intramuros was restored describing it as frozen in time Others however are comparing it to a theme park that is inspired by the Spanish colonial period citation needed Buildings and structures in Intramuros were criticized for not being authentic in their design that is supposed to be inspired by the Bahay na Bato or the prevailing prewar architectural style Several design elements from the Spanish colonial period were not present in the postwar building constructions There are also no buildings from the Spanish colonial period inside Intramuros that is a candidate for adaptive reuse since all of them were destroyed during the war Despite the design flaws construction and remodeling of several buildings were approved by the Intramuros Administration citation needed Gallery EditSee also Edit Philippines portalSpanish forts of the PhilippinesIntramuros AdministrationPoints of interest Fort Santiago Gates of Intramuros Manila Cathedral Intramuros Grand Marian Procession San Agustin Church Intramuros ConsortiumIntramuros related history History of Manila Maynila Captaincy General of the PhilippinesReferences EditCitations Edit a b Highlights of the Philippine Population 2015 Census of Population Philippine Statistics Authority Retrieved July 11 2017 Presidential Decree No 1616 s 1979 Official Gazette of the Republic of the Philippines Retrieved July 12 2017 a b Journal of American Folklore Volumes 17 18 United States American Folklore Society 1904 p 283 ISBN 1248746058 Retrieved August 12 2012 O Connell Daniel 1908 Manila the Pearl of the Orient Manila Merchants Association p 20 ISBN 0217014798 Retrieved August 12 2012 SCHOOLS INTRAMUROS JOURNEY discoverintramuros weebly com Retrieved June 18 2020 Sembrano Edgar Allan M October 8 2018 Intramuros Fort San Antonio Abad declared National Cultural Treasures Philippine Daily Inquirer Retrieved November 12 2018 a b Torres Jose Victor 2005 Ciudad Murada A Walk Through Historic Intramuros Vibal Publishing House p 5 ISBN 971 07 2276 X a b U S War Department 1903 p 435 Escolta Maestros 6 Filipino architects who shaped the old CBD April 16 2018 a b Torres Jose Victor 2005 Ciudad Murada A Walk Through Historic Intramuros Vibal Publishing House p 6 ISBN 971 07 2276 X U S War Department 1903 p 436 Baluarte de San Diego Intramuros the Walled City Retrieved on November 13 2011 History Ateneo de Manila University Retrieved on October 11 2012 Barrows David 2014 A History of the Philippines Guttenburg Free Online E books 1 179 Within the walls there were some six hundred houses of a private nature most of them built of stone and tile and an equal number outside in the suburbs or arrabales all occupied by Spaniards todos son vivienda y poblacion de los Espanoles This gives some twelve hundred Spanish families or establishments exclusive of the religious who in Manila numbered at least one hundred and fifty the garrison at certain times about four hundred trained Spanish soldiers who had seen service in Holland and the Low Countries and the official classes City of Manila Annual Report of the City of Manila 1905 p 71 Manila Bureau of Printing Manila High School The Historical Marker Database Retrieved on October 11 2012 Ramsey Russell Wilcox 1993 On Law amp Country pg 41 Braden Publishing Company Boston Esperanza Bunag Gatbonton A SHORT HISTORY AND GUIDE TO INTRAMUROS PDF Philippine Academic Consortium for Latin American Studies Archived from the original PDF on December 24 2013 Retrieved December 23 2013 a b The Sack of Manila The Battling Bastards of Bataan battlingbastardsbataan com Archived from the original on August 20 2010 Retrieved August 7 2010 Bernad Miguel A Genocide in Manila California USA Philippine American Literary House palhbooks com PALH Book Archived from the original on June 19 2010 Retrieved August 7 2010 Quezon III Manuel L February 7 2007 The Warsaw of Asia How Manila was Flattened in WWII Jeddah Saudi Arabia Arab News Online archive arabnews com Opinion Archived from the original on March 30 2012 Retrieved August 7 2010 History of Intramuros Intramuros the Walled City Retrieved on September 14 2011 Presidential Decree no 1616 The LawPhil Project Retrieved on April 4 2012 Pedrasa Ira December 6 2014 Manila Cathedral The basilica of popes ABS CBN News Retrieved April 6 2019 Anthology Stories About Architecture WTA Architecture Design Studio Retrieved April 6 2019 Tantiangco Aya March 16 2018 Seven stops for Visita Iglesia in Intramuros open for the first time since WWII GMA News GMA News Online Retrieved March 20 2018 Rocamora Joyce Ann L March 15 2018 3 big Lenten events lined up in Intramuros Philippine News Agency Retrieved March 20 2018 Arnaldo Ma Stella F April 3 2018 Intramuros welcomed 1 million Catholic faithful during Holy Week BusinessMirror Retrieved April 4 2018 Faith tourism 1 million people visited Intramuros during Holy Week ABS CBN News April 2 2018 Retrieved April 4 2018 iMake History Fortress LEGO Education Center opens in Intramuros Intramuros Administration Retrieved April 26 2018 Rizal Park Intramuros sites temporarily closed amid COVID 19 spread Manila Bulletin Retrieved March 16 2020 a b U S War Department 1903 p 443 Intramuros Walkthrough Intramuros the Walled City Retrieved on October 1 2011 IA Trivia Eight main gates of Intramuros Intramuros the Walled City Retrieved on September 14 2011 philstarcom June 18 2010 Maestranza Wall Restoration YouTube com Retrieved on 2011 09 18 FY OPIF 2009 PDF Department of Budget and Management 2009 p 494 Retrieved November 15 2017 Contact Us Intramuros Administration Retrieved November 15 2017 Sources Edit U S War Department 1903 Annual Reports of the War Department 1903 Vol III Washington Government Printing Office 1901 External links EditIntramuros at Wikipedia s sister projects Media from Commons Travel information from Wikivoyage Data from Wikidata Intramuros Administration Official website Geographic data related to Intramuros at OpenStreetMap Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Intramuros amp oldid 1128482851, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, 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