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Wikipedia

Maison Margiela

January 31, 2023

Maison Margiela, formerly Maison Martin Margiela, is a French luxury fashion house founded by Belgian designer Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens[1] in 1988 and headquartered in Paris.[2] The house produces both haute couture-inspired artisanal collections and ready-to-wear collections, with the former influencing the designs of the latter.[3] Product lines include womenswear, menswear, fine jewelry, footwear, objects, fragrance,[2] and home goods, among others.[4] Known for deconstructive and avant-garde designs with unconventional materials,[2] Maison Margiela has traditionally held live shows in unusual settings, for example empty metro stations[5] and street corners.[6] Models' faces are often obscured[7] by fabric or long hair to direct attention to the clothes and design.[8] Margiela resigned as creative designer in 2009[9] and John Galliano was appointed to the role in 2014.[10]

Maison Margiela
FormerlyMaison Martin Margiela
TypeSubsidiary
IndustryFashion
Founded1988; 35 years ago (1988) in Paris, France
Founder
Headquarters
Paris
,
France
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Gianfranco Gianangeli (CEO)
John Galliano (Creative Director)
Products
ParentOTB Group
Websitewww.maisonmargiela.com

History

Formation and early years

Maison Margiela was founded by Martin Margiela, a Belgian fashion designer, in 1988. Earlier, Margiela had studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Antwerp,[6] and although he actually graduated a year earlier, in 1979,[4] he is often mistaken for a member of the university's Avant-garde fashion collective the Antwerp Six.[11][8] Among other influences, during the 1980s Margiela and other Belgian designers such as the Antwerp Six were inspired by deconstructive fashions introduced by Japanese avantgardists such as Rei Kawakubo—creator of the label Comme des Garçons.[12] Margiela began utilizing the deconstructive style in the 1980s[13] while a freelance designer in Milan, Italy,[14] and early on his work would often reveal the garments’ structure, for example intentionally exposed linings and seams.[6] In 1984 he became Jean Paul Gaultier’s design assistant in Paris, a role he held until 1987.[2]

In 1988, Martin launched his own self-titled design label Maison Martin Margiela[2] with business partner and fellow designer Jenny Meirens.[6][14] Initially working out of a Paris apartment,[3] they opened their first store in an unmarked white space in Paris,[15] also opening a small studio on 12 Leopoldstraat in Antwerp.[14] New York Magazine wrote that "the designer quickly defined a deconstructed look [with his new label]… Vaguely Dadaist, as if Marcel Duchamp were reincarnated as a fashion designer, Margiela questioned every tenet of fashion and luxury."[15] Vogue would later write that his early ideas "provoked shock and intrigue" in the fashion industry.[2] On the label's garments, simple blank white labels with four white tacks[2] were sewn to signify the brand.[15] Distinct product ranges were given numbers as signifiers, in no particular chronological order.[2]

Early shows and anonymity

 
Previous Maison Margiela logo

With New York Magazine describing the label's early shows as "perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic productions ‘80s Paris fashion is known for,"[15] in 1988, Maison Martin Margiela presented its debut womenswear collection[2] in Paris.[15] for the spring of 1989.[16] Refusing to take bows at his live shows,[7] Margiela began avoiding pictures[15] and began handling all media via fax,[17][6] with interviews taken collectively by the entire design team[17][15] and correspondence signed with "we."[13] Many in the fashion media contended that the anonymity was a publicity stunt, although Maison Martin Margiela asserted that Margiela's anonymity was a reaction to an overly commercialized fashion industry[13][failed verification] and a genuine attempt to return the focus of fashion to the clothing, and not the personas behind it.[17] The press dubbed Margiela the Greta Garbo of fashion as a result, a reference to Garbo's similar avoidance of the spotlight,[11][9] and in 2008 the New York Times called Margiela "fashion's invisible man."[18]

Purchase by OTB

 
Maison Margiela boutique in Beverly Hills, CA

In 1994 the New York Times commented on the company's influence by writing that its "made-over flea-market clothes put an end to the conspicuous consumption [of the fashion industry] of the 1980s." That year Maison Martin Margiela debuted its first period pieces.[19] In 1998, Maison Martin Margiela debuted a menswear collection, known as line 10.[2] Maison Martin Margiela oversaw creative direction of womenswear for the French design house Hermès from 1997[2] until 2003,[2] with the design team[6] working under Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas.[2] After going public in 2002, the majority of Maison Martin Margiela's shares were purchased by the[2][19] OTB Group,[2] a holding company led by Renzo Rosso, also owner of the Italian fashion label Diesel.[2][19] In December 2004, Maison Martin Margiela moved into a new headquarters in an eighteenth-century convent in Paris' 11th arrondissement. The interior of the headquarters and furniture were painted entirely white with emulsion, creating an aged look. In addition to the white surroundings, employees all wear "blouse blanche", white coats traditionally worn by couture craftsmen. The white coats are both a nod to history and aesthetics, as well as an equalizer, as all employees wear them, regardless of title.[13] By the summer of 2008 there were 14 Margiela boutiques.[6]

New design team and collections

In October 2009, it was announced that Martin Margiela had resigned as creative director of Maison Martin Margiela, to varied speculation about the reasons.[2][18] Following Margiela's departure, the anonymous design team continued to design the label, with no single creative director in place.[2] CEO Giovanni Pungetti stated that "we want to stay avant-garde, and provocative, but without a new creative director. It’s a challenge. We know this. We will probably make mistakes, but the most important thing is to learn from them." The company expanded its homewares and interior design business in 2010,[9] and in July 2011 the house designed several concept hotel suites for La Maison Champs-Élysées in Paris.[2]

By the fall of 2014, sources estimated that the brand generated about $126 million in annual revenues, with around 50 directly owned stores. In October 2014 it was announced that John Galliano would take the position of creative director,[10] after having previously served in that position at Givenchy, Dior, and his eponymous line, John Galliano.[20] As reported by the Guardian, Margiela's only directions to the new director were "make it your own."[21] Giving rare interviews in the interim,[22] Galliano presented his debut collection for Maison Margiela in January 2015, to broadly positive reviews.[20] Coinciding with Galliano's debut collection, it was revealed that the house had dropped "Martin" from its name, in favor of "Maison Margiela." A spokesperson for Maison Margiela said that the name change "represented an evolution of the house."[23] With Galliano focusing on the haute couture element of the company, by the end of 2015 revenues were up 30%.[21]

Stores

 
A Maison Martin Margiela store in Paris, France, 2012

Prior to the brand's acquisition by OTB Group in 2002, its stores were not listed in the phone directory, and Margiela's name did not appear outside the shops.[18] By the summer of 2008 there were 14 Margiela boutiques operating internationally, with expansion in Dubai, Hong Kong, Moscow and Munich taking place over the subsequent six months.[6] In late 2009 the brand opened a "pop-up store" at the Art Basel Miami Beach art fair.[19] The number of standalone stores had grown to 17 by 2010, with 21 "shop-in-shops" internationally.[9] As of 2017, Maison Margiela has stores in countries such as France, the United Kingdom, Belgium, China, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, the United States, and Thailand.[24]

Products

Maison Margiela assigns each of its product ranges a number from 0 to 23 as a reference code, with no particular chronological order. Examples include fine jewelry (12), footwear (22), eyewear (8), objects (13) and fragrance (3).[2] The house produces both artisanal collections and ready-to-wear collections, with the former inspiring the designs of the latter.[3] With formal allegiance to no particular fashion movement,[17] Maison Margiela's designs are famous for deconstructionist traits[11] such as exposed seams, being oversized and upcycling garments.[25] Other deconstructionist tactics Maison Margiela has utilized include using traditional fabric linings as the outer layers of garments,[16] and the label's 1988 debut womenswear collection[2] included what The Independent described as "a leather butcher's apron reworked into a seductive evening gown," and an old tulle dress worked into several tailored jackets.[16] Other work with unconventional materials has included clothes fashioned of plastic carrier bags and wire coat hangers,[7] trouser suits made from 1970s upholstery fabrics, tops made with leather gloves, and jewelry made of colored ice such that clothes are dyed as the jewelry melts.[2]

 
Trompe-l'œil print jersey dresses by Maison Martin Margiela, Spring/Summer 1996 (left) and 2012 H&M reissue (right)

First shown in 1989[26] and introduced in 1992,[18] one of the company's more recognized pieces[12] is the Tabi boot, an interpretation of the traditional split Japanese tabi sock which separates the large toe.[26] In 1994 Maison Margiela debuted its first period pieces, with a line of "complete reproductions," after building its previous collection entirely from its archives.[19] Maison Margiela debuted a menswear collection in 1998, known as line 10.[2]

Martin Margiela was creative director for womenswear of the French design house Hermès from 1997[2] until 2003,[2] with the Maison Martin Margiela team's[6] designs for Hermès unveiled twice a year in Hermes’ rue St-Honoré store.[6] The Independent called the collections "understated," with both "loose-fitting masculine tailoring" and "black crêpe evening dresses," among other items.[6] New York MAgazine in turn described the designs as "quiet explorations of luxury that focused on classic clothes with subtle but masterful twists."[15] Maison Martin Margiela debuted its first haute couture collection in 2006.[2] In November 2008 the brand launched a small jewelry and eyewear collection including its first pair of sunglasses, described as "an impenetrable black band that wraps right around the face."[6] The house's first fragrance was created in collaboration with L’Oreal, debuting in 2009.[6] Maison Margiela debuted a capsule collection for H&M in 2012, consisting largely of reissued pieces from the Margiela archives.[27] The company collaborated with Converse on shoe designs in 2013,[28] and has also worked with the watch brand G-Shock[29] and collaborated with Swarovski on ready-to-wear jewelry in 2013.[30]

On 26 September 2018, after the spring/summer 2019 show, Maison Margiela's new fragrance, Mutiny was launched. Nose Dominique Ropion took six years to come up with a fragrance that reflects Galliano's vision of the Maison Margiela women. Willow Smith, Teddy Quinlivan, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Sasha Lane, Princess Nokia and Molly Bair are the chosen “Mutinist” ambassadors, who will be representing the diversity and individuality of the fragrance.[31]

Live shows

Maison Margiela is known for showcasing collections in atypical settings and manners,[6] with The New York Times describing the shows as "alternately electrifying or humorous or sexy or just plain weird."[18] According to New York Magazine, early shows were "perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic productions ‘80s Paris fashion is known for," as well as "radically personal and humanistic expressions about clothes [at a time] when fashion otherwise seemed estranged from everyday realities."[15] Maison Margiela's runway shows are notable in that the models' faces are often obscured by hoods,[7] fabric or long hair, in an attempt to direct attention to the clothes and away from the models themselves.[8] In 1989 Maison Margiela staged a collection on a playground in the outskirts of Paris. With local children interacting with the models in an unrehearsed way[15] and a first-come, first-served seating arrangement, according to Business of Fashion, "the critics loathed it. The industry loved it."[26] Continuing to stage catwalks in unusual places, in spring 1992 a show in an abandoned Paris metro station featured models walking down staircases lined with candles,[5] and according to The Independent, other settings have included round dining tables arranged in neglected warehouses, stairwells of old town houses, and disused subway cars.[6]

Although the house has a reputation for avoiding booking celebrity models,[7] for spring of 1993 models such as Cecilia Chancellor and Kate Moss showcased "minimalism paired with Victoriana."[11] 1993 also saw a show with models weaving among a brass band on the runway,[15] and in 1994 the label staged a collection based on what Barbie’s wardrobe would look like full size.[18] Models sat amongst the audience in 1995,[11] and on another occasion, in 1997 the company used a map to invite the fashion press to a street corner in France, and then had the models and a Belgian brass band showcase the newest collection after disembarking from an AEC Routemaster bus.[6] Vogue also related that "one show challenged editors and buyers to seat themselves according to their perceived importance, while another saw models wheeled out on trolleys."[2] According to Vogue, for two seasons in 1998 the label made do without live models, in one case instead using marionettes by Jane How.[11]

 
Kanye West wearing a mask and wardrobe by Maison Margiela on his 2013 Yeezus tour

Maison Martin Margiela was invited to show their first haute couture collection in Paris by The Chamber Syndicale in May 2006.[2] The house then held its 20th anniversary show in September 2008[32] in Paris,[10] featuring a catwalk with a walking birthday cake and "an oom-pah band surrounded by Margiela's lab-coated assistants."[16] Clothing was described as "coats made of synthetic wigs, bodysuits that fused parts of trench coats and tuxedo jackets, and mirrored tights made to look like disco balls."[18] The house designed Kanye West’s tour wardrobe in 2013 for his Yeezus tour.[33]

The spring show of 2014 "melded sweet, pioneer styles like floral house dresses with edgier fare like nude bodysuits and oversize Willy Wonka sunglasses."[10] In early 2015 the house premiered its first two collections with Galliano as head designer, initially the brand's "artisanal" collection. The second collection comprised 30 outfits including neon accessors, "Mary-Jane shoes and fake-fur slippers, short skirts, long coats, patent finishes."[20] Galliano upheld house tradition by not taking a post-show bow, although he was in attendance at the shows.[34] The July 2016 show by the house featured items such as military coats, a parachute dress, neon face paint,[35] and 19th-century garments.[36] In September 2016, Maison Margiela partnered with Barneys New York for its fall windows on Madison Avenue, creating four vignettes to reflect the house's recent artisans and ready-to-wear collections.[3]

Retrospectives and exhibits

The Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp (MoMu) held a retrospective on the label's work in 2008,[17] moving the exhibit to Somerset House in London two years later.[2] In 2017, MoMu showcased the 12 collections the label had produced while Margiela was appointed by Jean-Louis Dumas to work with Hermès.[37]

Documentaries

In early 2015 filmmaker Alison Chernick released The Artist is Absent, a short biopic on Martin Margiela that launched at the Tribeca Film Festival.[7][38] In November 2019, director Reiner Holzemer premiered the documentary 'Martin Margiela: In His Own Words'. Co-produced by Aminata and Holzemer (who had previously worked on a documentary by Dries Van Noten), it was called "the definitive study of this elusive, technically gifted designer " in Hollywood Reporter.[39] He notably explained his withdrawal from the public eye and his desire to remain a designer, rather than "a creative director who directs his assistants". Typically, he is not shown on-screen.

See also

References

  1. ^ "Jenny Meirens", Wikipedia (in Dutch), 2021-07-12, retrieved 2022-10-20
  2. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac Leaper, Caroline (October 15, 2012), "Martin Margiela", Vogue, retrieved 25 September 2015
  3. ^ a b c d Yotka, Steff (September 2, 2016), "The Designer Is Present! John Galliano Discusses His Maison Margiela Window Collaboration at Barneys New York", Vogue, retrieved February 15, 2017
  4. ^ a b . www.thefashionlaw.com. The Fashion Law. November 21, 2016. Archived from the original on February 18, 2017. Retrieved February 17, 2017.
  5. ^ a b Yotka, Steff (November 10, 2015), "The Sound of Margiela: Frédéric Sanchez Remembers Creating the Soundtracks for Martin Margiela's First Shows", Vogue, retrieved February 17, 2017
  6. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p "Martin Margiela: Fashion's invisible superstar", The Independent, 16 July 2008, retrieved February 12, 2017
  7. ^ a b c d e f Cartner-Morley, Jess (April 27, 2015), "Margiela documentary: The Artist is Absent – what do we learn about the Greta Garbo of fashion?", The Guardian, retrieved February 15, 2017
  8. ^ a b c The Artist Is Absent: A Short Film On Martin Margiela. YouTube. 27 April 2015. Retrieved 25 September 2015.
  9. ^ a b c d Oxberry, Eve (December 9, 2009), "Martin Margiels Exits Margiela", Drapers Online, retrieved February 15, 2017
  10. ^ a b c d Socha, Miles (6 October 2014). "John Galliano Joins Maison Martin Margiela". Women's Wear Daily. New York. Retrieved 6 October 2014.
  11. ^ a b c d e f Borrelli-Persson, Laird (November 10, 2015), "From the Archives: 14 Shows from the Man, the Myth, the Legend Martin Margiela", Vogue, retrieved February 15, 2017
  12. ^ a b Becho, Anabela (2016), "How radical Japanese fashion inspired Belgium's avant garde", Dazed, retrieved February 17, 2017
  13. ^ a b c d "Inside Martin Margiela's All-White Maison". Another Magazine. 28 April 2015. Retrieved 25 September 2015.
  14. ^ a b c Agerman, Johanna (April 2009), , Icon, archived from the original on February 16, 2017, retrieved February 15, 2017
  15. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Lewis, Jeremy (April 17, 2015), "A Peek Behind the Martin Margiela Mystique", New York Magazine, retrieved February 15, 2017
  16. ^ a b c d Walker, Harriet (6 December 2009). "Out of sight, not out of mind: Celebrating two decades of Martin Margiela magic". The Independent. London. Retrieved 6 December 2009.
  17. ^ a b c d e Kusoth Studio, Joseph (September 1, 2008), "Maison Martin Margiela", Interview Magazine, retrieved February 15, 2017
  18. ^ a b c d e f g Wilson, Eric (1 October 2008). "Fashion World Studies Margiela's Looks and His Next Move". The New York Times.
  19. ^ a b c d e Menkes, Suzy (December 8, 2009), "Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded", The New York Times, retrieved February 12, 2017
  20. ^ a b c Ostler, Catherine (April 24, 2015), "John Galliano is Back and Ready to Take Over the Fashion World", Newsweek.com, retrieved 2015-09-26
  21. ^ a b Cochrane, Lauren (July 6, 2016), "Maison Margiela: topsy-turvy designs with historical depth", The Guardian, retrieved February 17, 2017
  22. ^ , Fashion & Luxury, December 22, 2016, archived from the original on 2017-01-10, retrieved February 17, 2017
  23. ^ "Maison Margiela Changes Name Loses Martin". Vogue UK. 14 January 2015. Retrieved 25 September 2015.
  24. ^ , Maison Margiela, 2017, archived from the original on May 26, 2018, retrieved February 17, 2017
  25. ^ Menkes, Suzy (6 September 1994). "Martin Margiela". The New York Times. Retrieved 6 December 2009.
  26. ^ a b c O’Mahony, Richard (February 16, 2016), "Remembered: The Game-Changing Martin Margiela Show of 1989", Business of Fashion, retrieved February 17, 2017
  27. ^ . GQ. Archived from the original on 26 September 2015. Retrieved 25 September 2015.
  28. ^ Evans, Jonathan (September 6, 2013), "Converse and Maison Martin Margiela Redefine the White Sneaker", Esquire, retrieved February 15, 2017
  29. ^ Bhasin, Kim (August 31, 2016), "How Does G-Shock Compete in a World of Fitbits and Apple Watches?", Bloomberg, retrieved February 15, 2017
  30. ^ Swarovski Crystals: Atelier Swarovski, Maison Martin Margiela Collaborate on Jewelry Collection, 2013
  31. ^ "Meet Maison Margiela's New Fragrance Mutiny". Vogue. Retrieved 26 September 2018.
  32. ^ Mower, Sarah (November 10, 2015), "Margiela, Mon Amour", Vogue, retrieved February 17, 2017
  33. ^ Alexander, Ella (November 6, 2013), "Why Margiela Teamed Up With Kanye", Vogue, retrieved February 12, 2017
  34. ^ Cartner-Morley, Jess (March 2, 2016), "John Galliano takes Maison Margiela non-traditional", The Guardian, retrieved February 17, 2017
  35. ^ Dacre, Karen (July 6, 2016), "John Galliano offers a point of extreme difference at the end of couture week with latest Maison Margiela spectacle", The Standard, retrieved February 17, 2017
  36. ^ Adamson, Thomas (July 6, 2016), "Paris haute couture fashion week reaches creative climax in Maison Margiela and Elie Saab", National Post, retrieved February 17, 2017
  37. ^ Singer, Olivia (April 27, 2015), "The Artist is Absent: Martin Margiela", Another Magazine, retrieved February 12, 2017
  38. ^ . Vogue. Archived from the original on 14 August 2015. Retrieved 25 September 2015.
  39. ^ "New Martin Margiela Documentary Chronicles Fashion's Most Elusive Designer". The Hollywood Reporter. 15 November 2019. Retrieved 2019-11-17.

External links

 
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Maison Margiela.
  • www.maisonmargiela.com

January 31, 2023
maison, margiela, formerly, maison, martin, margiela, french, luxury, fashion, house, founded, belgian, designer, martin, margiela, jenny, meirens, 1988, headquartered, paris, house, produces, both, haute, couture, inspired, artisanal, collections, ready, wear. Maison Margiela formerly Maison Martin Margiela is a French luxury fashion house founded by Belgian designer Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens 1 in 1988 and headquartered in Paris 2 The house produces both haute couture inspired artisanal collections and ready to wear collections with the former influencing the designs of the latter 3 Product lines include womenswear menswear fine jewelry footwear objects fragrance 2 and home goods among others 4 Known for deconstructive and avant garde designs with unconventional materials 2 Maison Margiela has traditionally held live shows in unusual settings for example empty metro stations 5 and street corners 6 Models faces are often obscured 7 by fabric or long hair to direct attention to the clothes and design 8 Margiela resigned as creative designer in 2009 9 and John Galliano was appointed to the role in 2014 10 Maison MargielaFormerlyMaison Martin MargielaTypeSubsidiaryIndustryFashionFounded1988 35 years ago 1988 in Paris FranceFounderMartin MargielaJenny MeirensHeadquartersParis FranceArea servedWorldwideKey peopleGianfranco Gianangeli CEO John Galliano Creative Director ProductsClothingfashion accessoriesfootwearjewelryperfumeshomewaresParentOTB GroupWebsitewww wbr maisonmargiela wbr com Contents 1 History 1 1 Formation and early years 1 2 Early shows and anonymity 1 3 Purchase by OTB 1 4 New design team and collections 2 Stores 3 Products 4 Live shows 4 1 Retrospectives and exhibits 4 2 Documentaries 5 See also 6 References 7 External linksHistory EditFormation and early years Edit Maison Margiela was founded by Martin Margiela a Belgian fashion designer in 1988 Earlier Margiela had studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Antwerp 6 and although he actually graduated a year earlier in 1979 4 he is often mistaken for a member of the university s Avant garde fashion collective the Antwerp Six 11 8 Among other influences during the 1980s Margiela and other Belgian designers such as the Antwerp Six were inspired by deconstructive fashions introduced by Japanese avantgardists such as Rei Kawakubo creator of the label Comme des Garcons 12 Margiela began utilizing the deconstructive style in the 1980s 13 while a freelance designer in Milan Italy 14 and early on his work would often reveal the garments structure for example intentionally exposed linings and seams 6 In 1984 he became Jean Paul Gaultier s design assistant in Paris a role he held until 1987 2 In 1988 Martin launched his own self titled design label Maison Martin Margiela 2 with business partner and fellow designer Jenny Meirens 6 14 Initially working out of a Paris apartment 3 they opened their first store in an unmarked white space in Paris 15 also opening a small studio on 12 Leopoldstraat in Antwerp 14 New York Magazine wrote that the designer quickly defined a deconstructed look with his new label Vaguely Dadaist as if Marcel Duchamp were reincarnated as a fashion designer Margiela questioned every tenet of fashion and luxury 15 Vogue would later write that his early ideas provoked shock and intrigue in the fashion industry 2 On the label s garments simple blank white labels with four white tacks 2 were sewn to signify the brand 15 Distinct product ranges were given numbers as signifiers in no particular chronological order 2 Early shows and anonymity Edit Previous Maison Margiela logo With New York Magazine describing the label s early shows as perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic productions 80s Paris fashion is known for 15 in 1988 Maison Martin Margiela presented its debut womenswear collection 2 in Paris 15 for the spring of 1989 16 Refusing to take bows at his live shows 7 Margiela began avoiding pictures 15 and began handling all media via fax 17 6 with interviews taken collectively by the entire design team 17 15 and correspondence signed with we 13 Many in the fashion media contended that the anonymity was a publicity stunt although Maison Martin Margiela asserted that Margiela s anonymity was a reaction to an overly commercialized fashion industry 13 failed verification and a genuine attempt to return the focus of fashion to the clothing and not the personas behind it 17 The press dubbed Margiela the Greta Garbo of fashion as a result a reference to Garbo s similar avoidance of the spotlight 11 9 and in 2008 the New York Times called Margiela fashion s invisible man 18 Purchase by OTB Edit Maison Margiela boutique in Beverly Hills CA In 1994 the New York Times commented on the company s influence by writing that its made over flea market clothes put an end to the conspicuous consumption of the fashion industry of the 1980s That year Maison Martin Margiela debuted its first period pieces 19 In 1998 Maison Martin Margiela debuted a menswear collection known as line 10 2 Maison Martin Margiela oversaw creative direction of womenswear for the French design house Hermes from 1997 2 until 2003 2 with the design team 6 working under Hermes chairman Jean Louis Dumas 2 After going public in 2002 the majority of Maison Martin Margiela s shares were purchased by the 2 19 OTB Group 2 a holding company led by Renzo Rosso also owner of the Italian fashion label Diesel 2 19 In December 2004 Maison Martin Margiela moved into a new headquarters in an eighteenth century convent in Paris 11th arrondissement The interior of the headquarters and furniture were painted entirely white with emulsion creating an aged look In addition to the white surroundings employees all wear blouse blanche white coats traditionally worn by couture craftsmen The white coats are both a nod to history and aesthetics as well as an equalizer as all employees wear them regardless of title 13 By the summer of 2008 there were 14 Margiela boutiques 6 New design team and collections Edit In October 2009 it was announced that Martin Margiela had resigned as creative director of Maison Martin Margiela to varied speculation about the reasons 2 18 Following Margiela s departure the anonymous design team continued to design the label with no single creative director in place 2 CEO Giovanni Pungetti stated that we want to stay avant garde and provocative but without a new creative director It s a challenge We know this We will probably make mistakes but the most important thing is to learn from them The company expanded its homewares and interior design business in 2010 9 and in July 2011 the house designed several concept hotel suites for La Maison Champs Elysees in Paris 2 By the fall of 2014 sources estimated that the brand generated about 126 million in annual revenues with around 50 directly owned stores In October 2014 it was announced that John Galliano would take the position of creative director 10 after having previously served in that position at Givenchy Dior and his eponymous line John Galliano 20 As reported by the Guardian Margiela s only directions to the new director were make it your own 21 Giving rare interviews in the interim 22 Galliano presented his debut collection for Maison Margiela in January 2015 to broadly positive reviews 20 Coinciding with Galliano s debut collection it was revealed that the house had dropped Martin from its name in favor of Maison Margiela A spokesperson for Maison Margiela said that the name change represented an evolution of the house 23 With Galliano focusing on the haute couture element of the company by the end of 2015 revenues were up 30 21 Stores Edit A Maison Martin Margiela store in Paris France 2012 Prior to the brand s acquisition by OTB Group in 2002 its stores were not listed in the phone directory and Margiela s name did not appear outside the shops 18 By the summer of 2008 there were 14 Margiela boutiques operating internationally with expansion in Dubai Hong Kong Moscow and Munich taking place over the subsequent six months 6 In late 2009 the brand opened a pop up store at the Art Basel Miami Beach art fair 19 The number of standalone stores had grown to 17 by 2010 with 21 shop in shops internationally 9 As of 2017 Maison Margiela has stores in countries such as France the United Kingdom Belgium China Germany Hong Kong Italy Japan South Korea Taiwan the United States and Thailand 24 Products EditMaison Margiela assigns each of its product ranges a number from 0 to 23 as a reference code with no particular chronological order Examples include fine jewelry 12 footwear 22 eyewear 8 objects 13 and fragrance 3 2 The house produces both artisanal collections and ready to wear collections with the former inspiring the designs of the latter 3 With formal allegiance to no particular fashion movement 17 Maison Margiela s designs are famous for deconstructionist traits 11 such as exposed seams being oversized and upcycling garments 25 Other deconstructionist tactics Maison Margiela has utilized include using traditional fabric linings as the outer layers of garments 16 and the label s 1988 debut womenswear collection 2 included what The Independent described as a leather butcher s apron reworked into a seductive evening gown and an old tulle dress worked into several tailored jackets 16 Other work with unconventional materials has included clothes fashioned of plastic carrier bags and wire coat hangers 7 trouser suits made from 1970s upholstery fabrics tops made with leather gloves and jewelry made of colored ice such that clothes are dyed as the jewelry melts 2 Trompe l œil print jersey dresses by Maison Martin Margiela Spring Summer 1996 left and 2012 H amp M reissue right First shown in 1989 26 and introduced in 1992 18 one of the company s more recognized pieces 12 is the Tabi boot an interpretation of the traditional split Japanese tabi sock which separates the large toe 26 In 1994 Maison Margiela debuted its first period pieces with a line of complete reproductions after building its previous collection entirely from its archives 19 Maison Margiela debuted a menswear collection in 1998 known as line 10 2 Martin Margiela was creative director for womenswear of the French design house Hermes from 1997 2 until 2003 2 with the Maison Martin Margiela team s 6 designs for Hermes unveiled twice a year in Hermes rue St Honore store 6 The Independent called the collections understated with both loose fitting masculine tailoring and black crepe evening dresses among other items 6 New York MAgazine in turn described the designs as quiet explorations of luxury that focused on classic clothes with subtle but masterful twists 15 Maison Martin Margiela debuted its first haute couture collection in 2006 2 In November 2008 the brand launched a small jewelry and eyewear collection including its first pair of sunglasses described as an impenetrable black band that wraps right around the face 6 The house s first fragrance was created in collaboration with L Oreal debuting in 2009 6 Maison Margiela debuted a capsule collection for H amp M in 2012 consisting largely of reissued pieces from the Margiela archives 27 The company collaborated with Converse on shoe designs in 2013 28 and has also worked with the watch brand G Shock 29 and collaborated with Swarovski on ready to wear jewelry in 2013 30 On 26 September 2018 after the spring summer 2019 show Maison Margiela s new fragrance Mutiny was launched Nose Dominique Ropion took six years to come up with a fragrance that reflects Galliano s vision of the Maison Margiela women Willow Smith Teddy Quinlivan Hanne Gaby Odiele Sasha Lane Princess Nokia and Molly Bair are the chosen Mutinist ambassadors who will be representing the diversity and individuality of the fragrance 31 Live shows EditMaison Margiela is known for showcasing collections in atypical settings and manners 6 with The New York Times describing the shows as alternately electrifying or humorous or sexy or just plain weird 18 According to New York Magazine early shows were perhaps more like art happenings than the thematic and operatic productions 80s Paris fashion is known for as well as radically personal and humanistic expressions about clothes at a time when fashion otherwise seemed estranged from everyday realities 15 Maison Margiela s runway shows are notable in that the models faces are often obscured by hoods 7 fabric or long hair in an attempt to direct attention to the clothes and away from the models themselves 8 In 1989 Maison Margiela staged a collection on a playground in the outskirts of Paris With local children interacting with the models in an unrehearsed way 15 and a first come first served seating arrangement according to Business of Fashion the critics loathed it The industry loved it 26 Continuing to stage catwalks in unusual places in spring 1992 a show in an abandoned Paris metro station featured models walking down staircases lined with candles 5 and according to The Independent other settings have included round dining tables arranged in neglected warehouses stairwells of old town houses and disused subway cars 6 Although the house has a reputation for avoiding booking celebrity models 7 for spring of 1993 models such as Cecilia Chancellor and Kate Moss showcased minimalism paired with Victoriana 11 1993 also saw a show with models weaving among a brass band on the runway 15 and in 1994 the label staged a collection based on what Barbie s wardrobe would look like full size 18 Models sat amongst the audience in 1995 11 and on another occasion in 1997 the company used a map to invite the fashion press to a street corner in France and then had the models and a Belgian brass band showcase the newest collection after disembarking from an AEC Routemaster bus 6 Vogue also related that one show challenged editors and buyers to seat themselves according to their perceived importance while another saw models wheeled out on trolleys 2 According to Vogue for two seasons in 1998 the label made do without live models in one case instead using marionettes by Jane How 11 Kanye West wearing a mask and wardrobe by Maison Margiela on his 2013 Yeezus tour Maison Martin Margiela was invited to show their first haute couture collection in Paris by The Chamber Syndicale in May 2006 2 The house then held its 20th anniversary show in September 2008 32 in Paris 10 featuring a catwalk with a walking birthday cake and an oom pah band surrounded by Margiela s lab coated assistants 16 Clothing was described as coats made of synthetic wigs bodysuits that fused parts of trench coats and tuxedo jackets and mirrored tights made to look like disco balls 18 The house designed Kanye West s tour wardrobe in 2013 for his Yeezus tour 33 The spring show of 2014 melded sweet pioneer styles like floral house dresses with edgier fare like nude bodysuits and oversize Willy Wonka sunglasses 10 In early 2015 the house premiered its first two collections with Galliano as head designer initially the brand s artisanal collection The second collection comprised 30 outfits including neon accessors Mary Jane shoes and fake fur slippers short skirts long coats patent finishes 20 Galliano upheld house tradition by not taking a post show bow although he was in attendance at the shows 34 The July 2016 show by the house featured items such as military coats a parachute dress neon face paint 35 and 19th century garments 36 In September 2016 Maison Margiela partnered with Barneys New York for its fall windows on Madison Avenue creating four vignettes to reflect the house s recent artisans and ready to wear collections 3 Retrospectives and exhibits Edit The Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp MoMu held a retrospective on the label s work in 2008 17 moving the exhibit to Somerset House in London two years later 2 In 2017 MoMu showcased the 12 collections the label had produced while Margiela was appointed by Jean Louis Dumas to work with Hermes 37 Documentaries Edit In early 2015 filmmaker Alison Chernick released The Artist is Absent a short biopic on Martin Margiela that launched at the Tribeca Film Festival 7 38 In November 2019 director Reiner Holzemer premiered the documentary Martin Margiela In His Own Words Co produced by Aminata and Holzemer who had previously worked on a documentary by Dries Van Noten it was called the definitive study of this elusive technically gifted designer in Hollywood Reporter 39 He notably explained his withdrawal from the public eye and his desire to remain a designer rather than a creative director who directs his assistants Typically he is not shown on screen See also EditList of fashion designers Belgium List of grands couturiersReferences Edit Jenny Meirens Wikipedia in Dutch 2021 07 12 retrieved 2022 10 20 a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac Leaper Caroline October 15 2012 Martin Margiela Vogue retrieved 25 September 2015 a b c d Yotka Steff September 2 2016 The Designer Is Present John Galliano Discusses His Maison Margiela Window Collaboration at Barneys New York Vogue retrieved February 15 2017 a b About Margiela the Man Behind the Brand www thefashionlaw com The Fashion Law November 21 2016 Archived from the original on February 18 2017 Retrieved February 17 2017 a b Yotka Steff November 10 2015 The Sound of Margiela Frederic Sanchez Remembers Creating the Soundtracks for Martin Margiela s First Shows Vogue retrieved February 17 2017 a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p Martin Margiela Fashion s invisible superstar The Independent 16 July 2008 retrieved February 12 2017 a b c d e f Cartner Morley Jess April 27 2015 Margiela documentary The Artist is Absent what do we learn about the Greta Garbo of fashion The Guardian retrieved February 15 2017 a b c The Artist Is Absent A Short Film On Martin Margiela YouTube 27 April 2015 Retrieved 25 September 2015 a b c d Oxberry Eve December 9 2009 Martin Margiels Exits Margiela Drapers Online retrieved February 15 2017 a b c d Socha Miles 6 October 2014 John Galliano Joins Maison Martin Margiela Women s Wear Daily New York Retrieved 6 October 2014 a b c d e f Borrelli Persson Laird November 10 2015 From the Archives 14 Shows from the Man the Myth the Legend Martin Margiela Vogue retrieved February 15 2017 a b Becho Anabela 2016 How radical Japanese fashion inspired Belgium s avant garde Dazed retrieved February 17 2017 a b c d Inside Martin Margiela s All White Maison Another Magazine 28 April 2015 Retrieved 25 September 2015 a b c Agerman Johanna April 2009 Martin Margiela Icon archived from the original on February 16 2017 retrieved February 15 2017 a b c d e f g h i j k Lewis Jeremy April 17 2015 A Peek Behind the Martin Margiela Mystique New York Magazine retrieved February 15 2017 a b c d Walker Harriet 6 December 2009 Out of sight not out of mind Celebrating two decades of Martin Margiela magic The Independent London Retrieved 6 December 2009 a b c d e Kusoth Studio Joseph September 1 2008 Maison Martin Margiela Interview Magazine retrieved February 15 2017 a b c d e f g Wilson Eric 1 October 2008 Fashion World Studies Margiela s Looks and His Next Move The New York Times a b c d e Menkes Suzy December 8 2009 Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded The New York Times retrieved February 12 2017 a b c Ostler Catherine April 24 2015 John Galliano is Back and Ready to Take Over the Fashion World Newsweek com retrieved 2015 09 26 a b Cochrane Lauren July 6 2016 Maison Margiela topsy turvy designs with historical depth The Guardian retrieved February 17 2017 In rare interview John Galliano explains how Maison Margiela helps him be freer and more calm Fashion amp Luxury December 22 2016 archived from the original on 2017 01 10 retrieved February 17 2017 Maison Margiela Changes Name Loses Martin Vogue UK 14 January 2015 Retrieved 25 September 2015 Find a store Maison Margiela 2017 archived from the original on May 26 2018 retrieved February 17 2017 Menkes Suzy 6 September 1994 Martin Margiela The New York Times Retrieved 6 December 2009 a b c O Mahony Richard February 16 2016 Remembered The Game Changing Martin Margiela Show of 1989 Business of Fashion retrieved February 17 2017 Maison Martin Margiela collaborates with H amp M GQ co uk GQ Archived from the original on 26 September 2015 Retrieved 25 September 2015 Evans Jonathan September 6 2013 Converse and Maison Martin Margiela Redefine the White Sneaker Esquire retrieved February 15 2017 Bhasin Kim August 31 2016 How Does G Shock Compete in a World of Fitbits and Apple Watches Bloomberg retrieved February 15 2017 Swarovski Crystals Atelier Swarovski Maison Martin Margiela Collaborate on Jewelry Collection 2013 Meet Maison Margiela s New Fragrance Mutiny Vogue Retrieved 26 September 2018 Mower Sarah November 10 2015 Margiela Mon Amour Vogue retrieved February 17 2017 Alexander Ella November 6 2013 Why Margiela Teamed Up With Kanye Vogue retrieved February 12 2017 Cartner Morley Jess March 2 2016 John Galliano takes Maison Margiela non traditional The Guardian retrieved February 17 2017 Dacre Karen July 6 2016 John Galliano offers a point of extreme difference at the end of couture week with latest Maison Margiela spectacle The Standard retrieved February 17 2017 Adamson Thomas July 6 2016 Paris haute couture fashion week reaches creative climax in Maison Margiela and Elie Saab National Post retrieved February 17 2017 Singer Olivia April 27 2015 The Artist is Absent Martin Margiela Another Magazine retrieved February 12 2017 Martin Margiela Documentary Tribeca Film Festival Shorts Yoox Vogue Vogue Archived from the original on 14 August 2015 Retrieved 25 September 2015 New Martin Margiela Documentary Chronicles Fashion s Most Elusive Designer The Hollywood Reporter 15 November 2019 Retrieved 2019 11 17 External links Edit Wikimedia Commons has media related to Maison Margiela www maisonmargiela com Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Maison Margiela amp oldid 1122115859, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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