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Jewels of Anne of Denmark

January 07, 2023

The jewels of Anne of Denmark (1572–1619), wife of James VI and I and queen consort of Scotland and England, are known from accounts and inventories, and their depiction in portraits by artists including Paul van Somer.[1] A few pieces survive. Some modern historians prefer the name "Anna" to "Anne", following the spelling of numerous examples of her signature.

Anne of Denmark, depicted with a diamond aigrette and pearl hair attire, by John de Critz, 1605

Goldsmiths and jewellers

James VI and Anne of Denmark were married by proxy in August 1589 and in person when they met at Oslo. Lord Dingwall and the King's proxy, the Earl Marischal bought a jewel in Denmark, given to her at "the time of the contracting of the marriage".[2] A diamond ring was involved in these ceremonies, described as "a great ring of gold enamelled set with five diamonds, hand in hand in the midst, called the espousall ring of Denmark". This ring, and a gold jewel with the crowned initials "J.A.R" picked out in diamonds, were earmarked as important Scottish jewels and brought to England by King James in 1603, in the keeping of his favourite, Sir George Home.[3]

James' goldsmiths returned some royal pieces to him at Leith before he set out, jewels they held as pledges for loans.[4] While he was in Denmark, James VI ordered his chancellor, John Maitland of Thirlestane to give jewels to Christian IV and his mother Sophie of Mecklenburg, to other royals at the wedding of Elisabeth of Denmark and Henry Julius, Duke of Brunswick-Lüneburg on 19 April 1590, and to the admiral Peder Munk. These gifts included four great table diamonds and two great rubies set in gold rings which the master of the royal wardrobe William Keith of Delny had brought to Denmark.[5]

When Anne of Denmark arrived in Scotland in May 1590 the city of Edinburgh organised a ceremony of Royal Entry.[6] The queen was led to various sites in the town, and finally a rich jewel was lowered to her on a length of silk ribbon from the Netherbow Gate. This jewel, comprising a large emerald and diamond set in gold with pendant pearls, had been enlarged and remade by David Gilbert, a nephew of Michael Gilbert, from an older royal jewel which James VI had pledged to the town for a loan.[7] The jewel was called the "A", probably referring to the crowned initial or cipher of "A" embroidered with gold thread on its purple velvet case.[8] Soon after her coronation, the Earl of Worcester came as ambassador to Scotland from Elizabeth I. He brought Anne a richly wrought cloak set with jewels, a carkat of pearls with a tablet (a necklace), and a clock or watch.[9]

She brought a German jeweller Jacob Kroger with her to Scotland in May 1590. Kroger is known to have made fixing and buttons for the queen's costume, he described his work to an English border official John Carey in 1594.[10] Kroger fled to England with some of the queen's jewels and a French stable worker called Guillaume Martin. He was returned to Edinburgh and executed.[11] He may have been replaced by a French goldsmith called "Clei" of whom little is known.[12]

When Anne of Denmark was pregnant in December 1593, it was said that James VI gave Anne of Denmark the "greatest part of his jewels",[13] possibly including the large table-cut diamond and cabochon ruby pendant known as the "Great H of Scotland" which had belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots.[14] Her son, Prince Henry, was born at Stirling Castle on 19 February. On 8 April 1594, possibly marking her "churching", James VI gave Anne a gold garnishing or headdress made by Thomas Foulis with two rubies and 24 diamonds, and an opal ring.[15]

In August 1594 her son Prince Henry was baptised at Stirling Castle. Joachim von Bassewitz was sent by Anne's grandfather, the Duke of Mecklenburg, with a gold chain or necklace for the queen, described as "very fair and antique". By antique it was meant the piece was made in modern classicising renaissance style. The necklace comprised rubies, chrysolites, and hyacinths set in roses. Bassewitz explained that it represented the combined English roses of York and Lancaster. It was suitable to wear on the front of gown "made after the French fashion, as the Queene now doth use".[16]

Adam Crusius, the ambassador from the Duke of Brunswick brought his master's miniature portrait in a locket with his name set in diamonds and a scene of the death of Actaeon watched by Diana and her nymphs, his blood running from the "byting of the Doggs" picked out with polished rubies.[17] A large pendant showing a scene of Diana and Actaeon is depicted worn on the sleeve in a 1589 portrait of Frances Brydges, Lady Chandos, by Hieronimo Custodis at Woburn Abbey.[18]

It was customary at the Scottish court to give gifts on News Years Day. In January 1596, James VI gave Anne of Denmark a pair of gold bracelets set with stones and pearls, a ruby ring, and a tablet and carcan set with diamonds and rubies. The gifts were supplied by the goldsmith and financier Thomas Foulis from the money James VI received as a subsidy from Elizabeth I and the custom duty of the Scottish gold mines.[19] In January 1600, James gave her a great emerald set around with diamonds and another jewel set with 29 diamonds, and in January 1601 a gift provided by George Heriot cost £1,333 Scots.[20]

Anne of Denmark owned clothes embroidered with pearls.[21] In 1597 she ordered an elaborate gown embroidered with jet beads and buttons which proved too heavy to wear and her tailor was ordered to start again.[22]

George Heriot

From the early 1590s, George Heriot sold pieces to Anne of Denmark, and he was appointed goldsmith to the Queen on 17 July 1597.[23] In August 1599 Heriot was paid £400 Sterling from the English annuity, a sum of money which Queen Elizabeth sent to Scotland, for jewels delivered to Anne of Denmark. He also provided items of embroidered costume and hats to the queen and her children.[24] Several of her Scottish accounts and bills were checked and paid by William Schaw, Chamberlain of Dumfermline.[25] Itemised jewels include a diamond feather with an emerald to wear in a hat, "ane fethir for ane hatt quherein thair is sett ane greit Imerod & ane uther Jewell conteining lxxiij dyamentis".[26]

A surviving chain or necklace thought to have been made in Edinburgh for an Edinburgh merchant or his wife, resembles a design by Corvinianus Saur, an Augsburg jeweller who worked for Christian IV in 1596 and became his court jeweller in 1613. This piece may demonstrate close links in fashion between the royal courts of Scotland and Denmark, and the upper reaches of Edinburgh society. The links of the necklace, held in a private collection, have a central diamond surrounded by open gold work enamelled black with a simple crown.[27]

Heriot and loans to the King and Queen

George Heriot made loans to Anne of Denmark, often secured on jewels. On 29 July 1601 he returned a feather or aigrette of rubies and diamonds set around an emerald which she had pledged for a loan.[28] A request for a loan (not dated) written by Anne survives, "Gordg Heriott, I ernestlie dissyr youe present to send me tua hundrethe pundes withe all expidition becaus I man hest me away presentlie, Anna R."[29]

A letter from James VI to Mark Kerr of Newbattle of June 1599 mentions that he had instructed John Preston of Fentonbarns to repay from tax receipts a sum of money advanced on the security of some of the queen's jewels to George Heriot. James VI required "the relief of our said dearest bedfellow's jewels engaged". Preston however, had reserved the money for the costs of an embassy to France. As the departure of his ambassador was delayed, James VI wanted Mark Kerr to ensure that Heriot was now paid. The King thought the transaction "touched us so nearly in honour". The letter is often quoted as an example of the queen's extravagance although it does not mention that this particular loan, which James was anxious to repay from his revenue, had been made to the queen.[30]

A warrant from James VI dated July 1598 to the treasurer, Walter Stewart of Blantyre, requests 3,000 merks to be used to redeem jewels belonging to the queen pledged by his direction and command. The money was given to Andrew Stewart, Lord Ochiltree, who paid off a loan (possibly from Heriot) and redeemed two of the queen's jewels.[31] James VI borrowed £6,720 from Heriot for which he pledged a jewel set with 74 diamonds, probably one of his own hat feathers.[32] In 1603, Anne pledged a jewel with 73 diamonds, with a thin table diamond and two emeralds, to Heriot as security for a debt to him of £7,539-13s-4d Scots. After the Union of the Crowns, she continued to obtain jewels and loans from Heriot, occasionally ordering the chamberlain of her estates, Lord Carew, to make repayments.[33]

A gold cross, with seven diamonds and two rubies, pawned by Anne of Denmark to Heriot in May 1609, seems to be mentioned in several earlier inventories and accounts, and probably had belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots and her mother, Mary of Guise.[34] In March 1613, to finance her progress to Bath, Anne pawned a "fair round jewel" with a diamond to Heriot for £1,200. The jewel was delivered to "Lady Rommeny", Rebecca Romney, the widow of a London merchant, by George Abercromby, a gentleman of the wardrobe.[35]

Heriot and the court in England

Heriot's surviving bills for jewellery supplied to Anna of Denmark mostly date from 1605 to 1615, totalling around £40,000. One account was audited by Justinian Povey in February 1617.[36] Her servants Jean Drummond, Margaret Hartsyde and Dorothea Silking often dealt with him and made payments on her behalf.[37] Hartsyde and Silking looked after the jewels that Anne wore, and may have dressed her. When she moved from place to place on progress, her jewels were kept secure by William Bell, clerk of the jewel coffers.[38] She frequently wore a miniature portrait of Isabella Clara Eugenia and Heriot mended its locket case twice.[39] She was less keen on full size portraits of the Archduchess and her husband and considered giving them away to a friend in Scotland.[40]

Surviving pieces made by Heriot for Anne include a gold miniature case set with her initials in diamonds, now held by the Fitzwilliam Museum, which the queen may have gifted to her lady-in-waiting Anne Livingstone,[41] and a pair of earrings which include the enamelled face of an African man, in a private collection.[42] The earrings were itemised by Heriot in 1609 as "two pendants made as more's heads and all sett with diamonds price £70." She also had "a pendant with a Moore's head".[43][44][45] She had African servants attending her horse, in Scotland and in England.[46] These pieces may have reflected her fascination with the representation of African people in the theatre, as in her Masque of Blackness.[47][48] Elizabethan aristocrats had also worn jewellery decorated with images of African or Moorish people, in 1561 the Earl of Pembroke owned a brooch with an agate cameo of "a woman morens hedde with a white launde upon the hedde", and the "Gresley Jewel" includes an onyx cameo of this description and two gold African archers.[49] Such cameos were supplied by a London goldsmith, John Mabbe.[50]

Heriot provided a chain of gems and pearls with her portrait miniature which Anne of Denmark gave to the Spanish ambassador, the Count of Villamediana in October 1605, and she gave his senior companion, the Constable of Castile, a rather more expensive diamond encrusted locket made by John Spilman containing her portrait and James'.[51] Heriot made the diamond-set jewel which the queen presented to Jane Meautys on her wedding to Sir William Cornwallis in 1610.[52] Heriot also supplied jewels to Prince Henry.[53]

 
Detail of a portrait by Paul van Somer showing Anne of Denmark wearing the crossbow, a head tire with pearls, and other jewels, National Portrait Gallery, London

Heriot made jewels for Anne of Denmark with ciphers or initials picked out with diamonds; "S" presumably for her mother, Sophie of Mecklenburg-Güstrow, "C4" for her brother Christian IV of Denmark, and "AR" for herself.[54] Christian sent a diamond "C4" to Anne in June 1611, a gift noted by the Venetian ambassador Antonio Foscarini.[55][56] Some jewels made for Christian IV were designed by a Hamburg goldsmith, Jacob Mores (died 1612). His drawings include pieces with diamond-set initials and monograms.[57]

Such jewels with ciphers were depicted in Anne of Denmar's portraits, especially those by Paul van Somer, Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger, and in miniature by Isaac Oliver.[58][59] Portraits of other women in the queen's circle depict jewelled miniature cases or lockets with an "A", "AR" or "R" for "Anna Regina", including those of Margaret Hay, Countess of Dunfermline, and Elizabeth Grey, Countess of Kent and Anne Livingstone.[60]

The miniature case in the Fitzwilliam has two monograms, one set with diamonds and the other in enamel. "CAR" and "AA", with the closed "S", the "s fermé" or "fermesse", a symbol used in correspondence of the period as a mark of affection.[61] The "S" would also have alluded to Anne's mother, Sophie of Mecklenburg.[62][63][64] The case also includes a "CC" cipher, for Christian IV. Heriot supplied a jewel "with an A and two CC sett with diamonds".[65]

In October 1620, King James gave one of Anne of Denmark's lockets to an ambassador from Savoy, the Marquis Villa. It was set with diamonds and contained portraits of the king and queen, the Elector Palatine, and his wife Elizabeth, and was worth about 2,000 crowns.[66] Such jewellery, emphasising family relationships, was commissioned by Anne's family. A gold bracelet with crowned and enamelled "AC" ciphers surviving at Rosenborg Castle may have been Christian IV's gift to his wife Anna Cathrine.[67]

Goldsmiths and gifts

Anne of Denmark also obtained jewels in the 1590s from another Edinburgh goldsmith Thomas Foulis, including a pair of bracelets set with gemstones and pearls, and a "tablet all diamonds" with a "carcan of diamonds and rubies". These were New Year's Day gifts from King James.[68] Foulis and his partner Robert Jousie were involved in collecting the King's English subsidy in London, and bought a sapphire engraved with Queen Elizabeth's portrait for Anne of Denmark in 1598 made by Cornelius Dreghe, an associate of Abraham Harderet.[69] Cornelius "Draggie" turned up in Edinburgh in 1601, attempting to set up a weaver's workshop to exploit generous subsidies for expert craftsmen, but the other weavers protested he was a lapidary, not a weaver.[70]

 
Margaret Hay, Countess of Dunfermline wears a jewel with an "AR" cipher, Marcus Gheeraerts the younger, Dunedin Public Art Gallery

Other goldsmiths who supplied Anne of Denmark in England include; Arnold Lulls, William Herrick, John Spilman, Nicholas Howker, Abraham der Kinderen, and Abraham Harderet who received an annual fee of £50 as the queen's jeweller.[71] Spilman made a jewel with the "AR" cipher as the queen's gift to the Count of Aremburgh.[72] Nicholas Howker made a chain which Anne of Denmark gave to the Spanish ambassador the Count of Villamediana as his parting gift in February 1606. It comprised gold snakes enamelled green, set with diamonds.[73] Anne of Denmark gave another chain which had 86 elements including 22 green snakes set with small pearls and sparks of ruby to Anne Livingstone.[74]

In 1603 the Earl of Rutland was sent to Denmark as ambassador to announce the successful Union of the Crowns. He bought four jewels in London for £75 as gifts for the Danish royal family, including a gold pelican set with an opal and wings studded with rubies which cost £9.[75] Arnold Lulls made a jewel for Anne of Denmark intended as a gift for Margaret of Austria, Queen of Spain. Charles Howard, 1st Earl of Nottingham presented this jewel depicting the Habsburg emblems of a diamond double eagle and golden fleece to the Queen of Spain in Madrid in May 1605.[76]

Anne gave jewels as gifts at christenings. She gave her lawyer Lawrence Hyde and his wife Barbara a diamond ring.[77]

England and Queen Elizabeth's jewels

At the Union of the Crowns in 1603, King James travelled south towards London leaving Anne of Denmark in Scotland. Scaramelli, a Venetian diplomat in London heard a rumour that Anne of Denmark had given away jewels, costume, and hangings to her ladies remaining in Scotland.[78]

In April 1603 King James ordered that some of Elizabeth's jewels, and a hairdresser Blanche Swansted, should be sent to Berwick-upon-Tweed so that Anne of Denmark would appear like an English queen as she crossed the border. James reiterated this request, explaining these jewels were to be selected by Elizabeth's household attendants for Anne's "ordinary apparelling and ornament".[79]

On 20 May a commission was appointed to inventory the remaining jewels in Mary Radcliffe's keeping and select the most suitable to be reserved as crown jewels. The remainder was returned to Radcliffe on 28 May.[80] Over the coming year the remaining jewels were carefully examined and sorted.[81] Lady Hatton petitioned to become keeper of the queen's jewels and to help dress her.[82] Most of the jewels in Radcliffe's keeping were transferred to the new keeper, Lady Suffolk, or as "jewels of price" secured in the Tower of London.[83] An inventory of some of Elizabeth's jewels made at this time included a brooch with a miniature of Henry VIII placed under a diamond-set crown and other old pieces like a "pater noster" or rosary of garnet, and a gold honeysuckle valued at £12 which may have a badge of Anne Boleyn.[84]

Many of Queen Elizabeth's jewels were kept by Mary Radcliffe ready for her to wear. On 13 May 1603 King James had asked her to go through the jewels with Catherine Howard, Countess of Suffolk, presumably to make a selection for Anne of Denmark.[85] A note in an inventory dated 19 May 1603 records that James selected a diamond-set gold crossbow on that day, perhaps to send to Anne of Denmark, who was later depicted wearing a crossbow jewel in her hair. The motif may be related to an emblem of Geffrey Whitney, who sees in the crossbow an allegory of the superiority of wit or ingenuity to brute strength.[86] A crossbow jewel in Anne of Denmark's inventory, perhaps the same piece, had a red enamelled heart at the string.[87]

In response to the king's orders, jewels were taken from the Tower of London on 8 June 1603 and delivered to Lady Suffolk, who had been a keeper of Elizabeth's jewels, to give to Anne of Denmark.[88] Anne of Denmark arrived in York on 11 June.[89] A gift of chain of pearls sent north by James to their daughter Princess Elizabeth arrived at York. Anne admired the pearls and swopped them for a set of ruby buttons (which may have once belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots). Years later, Elizabeth gave the ruby buttons to Frances Tyrrell.[90] Lady Anne Clifford noted that Lady Suffolk, who brought jewels from the Tower of London, was with the queen at Dingley on 24 June.[91] Lady Suffolk joined Anne of Denmark's household and became the keeper of her jewels.[92]

The queen normally travelled wearing a face mask to protect her complexion,[93] but in June 1603 she rode towards London without a mask, in order to be seen by her new subjects, and Dudley Carleton wrote, as "for her favour she hath done it some wrong, for in all this journey she hath worn no mask".[94] The French ambassador Christophe de Harlay, Count of Beaumont thought the queen was a Catholic and heard that she secretly wore a little cross at her breast with a relic of the True Cross.[95]

The circlet and the English coronation

 
Ariscratic women dressed in ermine with jewelled coronets, including Helena Snakenborg, Marchioness of Northampton, paid homage to Anne of Denmark at Windsor Castle and at Westminster Abbey in July 1603

One of first formal events involving Anne and her jewels was a reception of her ladies and aristocratic women at Windsor Castle on 2 July 1603, an event held in parallel with the installation of James' Knights of the Garter. The "great ladies" paid homage in turn, "most sumptuous in apparel, and exceeding rich and glorious in jewels".[96] This was probably the day when Elizabeth Carey was sworn in as a lady of the privy chamber and "mistress of the sweet coffers".[97]

The coronation of James and Anne was held on 25 July 1603 at Westminster Abbey, and Anne was provided with a jewelled circlet, made by the London goldsmiths John Spilman and William Herrick. The circlet included gemstones salvaged from Queen Elizabeth's jewels.[98] The bill for making the circlet is held at the library of the University of Edinburgh:[99]

Item, made a rich circulet of gould for the Queene, set with dyamonds, rubyes, saphires, emeraldes and pearles, for the fashion thereof __ cl li [£150].[100]

An Order of Service mentions (in Latin) that her hair would be loose about her shoulders, with the gem-set gold circlet on her head.[101] The circlet was described in detail in March 1630; "A circlet of gold new made for our late dear mother Queen Anne, having in the midst eight fair diamonds of various sorts, eight fair rubies, eight emeralds, and eight sapphires, garnished with thirty two small diamonds, thirty two small rubies, and three-score and four [64] pearls fixed, and on each border thirty two small diamonds and thirty two small rubies".[102]

Despite Spilman and Herrick's work on the circlet and the sacrifice of Elizabeth's jewels, it seems to have made little impact on the diplomatic community, as Scaramelli and Giovanni degli Effetti reported that she went to her coronation on Monday 25 July 1603 with a plain band of gold on her head.[103] A list of jewels requested by William Segar from the Jewel House for the coronation mentions "a circle of gold for the Queen to wear when she goeth to her coronation", perhaps indicating that she did not wear the new circlet that King James had ordered. However, Benjamin von Buwinckhausen, a diplomat from the Duchy of Württemberg, described her seated in Westminster Abbey wearing a heavy coronet set with precious stones.[104]

She was crowned with one of Elizabeth's "wearing crowns".[105] The new circlet was added to the Crown Jewels in March 1606, but remained in Anne's keeping.[106][107]

Jewels at court

In January 1604 a jewel was featured in The Masque of Indian and China Knights at Hampton Court.[108] It was sold to King James by Peter Vanlore, and was perhaps a diamond jewel with a pendant pearl costing £760.[109] At this time, Vanlore sold to James another jewel comprising a large table ruby and two lozenge diamonds, for which he received in part exchange a parcel of Queen Elizabeth's jewels. The parcel included pieces that had been in the keeping of another of Elizabeth's ladies in waiting, the late Catherine Howard, Countess of Nottingham, a combined looking glass and clock with the figure of woman on a pillar wearing a table diamond on her forepart,[110] and items taken from a ship regarded as a prize at sea. The parcel was valued at £5492-11s-2d and Vanlore received a further payment of £11,477 in February.[111] Dudley Carleton heard the jewel in the masque cost James £40,000, more than twice this sum, and presumably an exaggeration.[112] Later in January 1604 an inventory was made of other jewels from Elizabeth's collection still in the keeping of Earl of Nottingham including brooches fashioned like winding serpents set with emeralds.[113] A selection was made of a number of Elizabeth's jewels listed in the Stowe inventory (British Library Stowe 557) on 30 January 1604, presumably for sale or exchange.[114]

 
A 15th or 16th-century coral branch with "serpent's tongues" intended to test for poison, (Vienna, Treasury of the German Order)

Auditor Gofton made a list of 29 jewels formerly in the Jewel House at the Tower of London which King James had given to Anne of Denmark on various occasions.[115] He was rewarded with £20 in November 1614 for his work making inventories of jewels at the Tower over a decade.[116]

In December 1607 King James retrieved some pieces from the Jewel House and sent them to the goldsmiths William Herrick and John Spilman for refurbishment. He gave four pieces to Anne of Denmark; a cup made of unicorn's horn with a gold cover (believed to guard against poison) set with diamonds and pearls, a gold jug or ewer, a salt with a branch set with sapphires and serpent's tongues (really fossilized shark teeth, also a safeguard against poisoning), and a crystal chess board with topaz and crystal pieces.[117]

Anne of Denmark kept a chain or collar made up of three sorts of knots of diamonds, with a pendant like a gold key set with diamonds. This had been given to Elizabeth by the Earl of Leicester in 1584. Anne gave it to her daughter Elizabeth, and she wears it in a portrait by Meirevelt now at the museum of Châlons-sur-Saône. Elizabeth of Bohemia pawned the chain in the 1650s and her son Charles Louis redeemed it.[118] Another collar was made up of letters in "Spanish work", spelling out a Latin motto Gemma preciosior intus - a greater jewel within. At the centre were the Greek letters alpha and omega. This had been Thomas Heneage's gift to Elizabeth in 1589.[119] Anne had it lengthened by John Spilman in July 1610, adding the components of another Spanish work collar. Then in April 1611 Anne ordered Spilman and Nicasius Russell to dismantle parts of it for jewels to adorn table salts and a gold bowl. James may have given the remaining collar to the Duchess of Lennox as a New Year's Day gift in 1622.[120]

Ambassadors and jewels

The Venetian ambassador Nicolò Molin was granted an English coat of arms featuring the wheel of a watermill, punning on his name. He gave Anne of Denmark a gold ring with an aquamarine with the motto "Una gota de aqui de molyne", meaning a drop of water from the mill.[121]

Wiliam Herrick and Arnold Lulls were paid in October 1606 for pearls given by King James to Anne, and for "two pictures of gold set with stone" which she gave to the French ambassador Christophe de Harlay, Count of Beaumont and his wife Anne Rabot.[122] Ambassadors had regular audiences with Anne of Denmark, and their wives also came to see the queen. John Finet described a visit of Isabelle Brûlart, the wife of French ambassador Gaspard Dauvet, Sieur des Marets, at Denmark House in December 1617, although no gifts are mentioned.[123]

Anne and her ladies-in-waiting received gifts from ambassadors. In 1603, the French ambassadors, the Marquis de Rosny and Christophe de Harlay, Count of Beaumont, gave her a mirror of Venice crystal in a gold box set with diamonds, and a gold table clock with diamonds to Lucy Russell, Countess of Bedford, a gold box with the French king's portrait to Lady Rich and a pearl and diamond necklace to "Lady Rosmont". Rosny also gave a diamond ring to "Margaret Aisan, a favourite lady of the queen's bedchamber", this was Margaret Hartsyde, a Scottish servant who lacked the aristocratic status of the other women.[124]

Juan Fernández de Velasco, Constable of Castile, commissioned jewels in Antwerp as gifts to distribute at the English court in 1604. Against the current custom he tried to buy on a sale-or-return basis and was flatly refused.[125] He gave jewels to prominent figures in Anna's houseshold likely to promote the Catholic cause, Lady Anna Hay received a gold anchor studded with 39 diamonds, and Jean Drummond an aigrette studded with 75 diamonds, both pieces supplied by a Brussels jeweller Jean Guiset.[126][127]

King James and Anne sent a variety of gifts to Brussels in 1605, including deer, dogs, horses and caparisons, and Anne sent the Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia embroidered waistcoats and pillow-cases, which she politely declared were finer than any Spanish needlework.[128] After the Gunpowder plot, the Queen of Spain sent an embassy to congratulate the royal family on their safe deliverance, bringing Anne a Spanish-style satin robe embellished with gilt leather, with 48 long gold tags or aglets (at 3 inches, longer than those used in England), with chains and necklaces of gold beads all filled with scented ambergris.[129] Scent was a feature of Spanish diplomacy, Villamediana brought a perfumer in 1603.[130] In January 1604 Marie de' Medici, Queen of France sent Anne of Denmark a cabinet inset with panels scented with musk and ambergris to make a "sweet savour". The drawers were full of flowers for setting in head attires and other jewels.[131] A similar item was listed in 1619 at Denmark House, a "cabinet of pomander" containing a "curious suite of pomander" in a store room next to the little bedchamber.[132]

In May 1613 Anne went to Bath to take the waters for her health. The ambassador of Savoy started to follow her bringing a gift of a crystal casket mounted with silver gilt, but gave up and returned to London. He had brought lions and other live beasts for King James.[133]

Descriptions of the queen and her jewels

 
Playwright Elizabeth Cary wears her hair in petals, a style worn by Anne of Denmark in 1617, MFAH

Ambassadors frequently described Anne of Denmark's magnificent appearance. The Venetian diplomats Piero Duodo and Nicolo Molin had an audience with Anne of Denmark at Wilton House in November 1603, she was seated under a canopy, covered with jewels and strings of pearls.[134] The Constable of Castille saw Anne of Denmark at Whitehall Palace on 25 August 1604. She was sitting on a throne with a canopy or cloth of estate decorated with rubies, emeralds, and hyacinths watching dancing. On 28 August he had his formal audience with the queen who was attended by twenty beautiful Maids of Honour.[135]

The Venetian ambassador Zorzi Giustinian wrote that the queen and her ladies' pearls and jewels were a highlight of The Masque of Beauty.[136] Giustinian thought such an abundant and splendid display could not be rivalled by another royal court.[137] Antonio Foscarini admired her pearls at the wedding of Princess Elizabeth in 1613, she wore "in her hair a number of pear-shaped pearls, the most beautiful in the world".[138] She wore diamonds all over her white satin costume so that she appeared ablaze.[139] The jewels were thought to be worth £400,000.[140]

In December 1617 Orazio Busino, the chaplain of Piero Contarini, described Anne of Denmark at Somerset House. She was seated under a canopy of gold brocade. Her costume was pink and gold, low cut at the front in an oval shape, and her farthingale was four feet wide. Her hair was dressed with diamonds and other jewels and extended in rays, or like the petals of a sunflower, with artificial hair.[141]

Ben Jonson mentioned jewels worn by nine female performers on 14 January 1608 at the "Throne of Beauty" in his account of The Masque of Beauty, "the habit and dressing for the fashion was most curious, and so exceeding riches, that the throne whereon they sat seemed to be a mine of light, struck from their jewels and their garments".[142] Anne wore a collar of diamonds and ciphers of "P" and "M" which had belonged to Mary I of England.[143] Busino gave a description of the jewels and costume of aristocrats and ladies in waiting in the audience at the masque on 6 January 1617, Jonson's The Vision of Delight;

every box was filled notably with most noble and richly arrayed ladies, in number some 600 and more according to the general estimate; the dresses being of such variety in cut and colour as to be indescribable; the most delicate plumes over their heads, springing from their foreheads or in their hands serving as fans; strings of jewels on their necks and bosoms and in their girdles and apparel in such quantity that they looked like so many queens, so that at the beginning, with but little light, such as that of the dawn or of the evening twilight, the splendour of their diamonds and other jewels was so brilliant that they looked like so many stars ... The dress peculiar to these ladies is very handsome ... behind it hangs wellnigh from the neck down to the ground, with long, close sleeves and waist ... The farthingale also plays its part. The plump and buxom display their bosoms very liberally, and those who are lean go muffled up to the throat. All wear men's shoes or at least very low slippers. They consider the mask as indispensable for their face as bread at table, but they lay it aside willingly at these public entertainments".[144]

The audience on that night included Lady Anne Clifford, Lady Ruthin, the Countess of Pembroke, the Countess of Arundel, Pocahontas and Tomocomo.[145] Costume worn at court was expensive, in December 1617 Anne Clifford gave Anne of Denmark a satin skirt with £100 worth of embroidery.[146]

In portraits, Anne of Denmark and her contemporaries are seen to wear jewels suspended from the ear by shoelaces, or black cords. As a male fashion, this use of laces was mocked by the poet Samuel Rowlands in 1609.[147] Rowlands suggests that a "lowly minded youth" would crave the "shoe-string" of a courtesan to wear as a favour for his ear.[148]

Decorative arts: table fountains, salts, and clocks

 
In this portrait by Marcus Gheeraerts, Anne of Denmark wears a double cross set with diamonds. A double cross and a double cross of the Order of Jerusalem were listed in her inventory.[149] The crowned "s fermé" or "fermesse" at the collar was a symbol used in correspondence as a mark of affection, and was also the initial of Anne's mother, Sophie of Mecklenburg

The Welsh-born goldsmith John Williams supplied a "fountain of silver gilt, well chased, containing one basin with two tops, one of them being three satyres or wild men, the other a woman with a sail or flag". The fountain had three taps or cocks decorated with mermaids. It was used at Somerset House, known in her time as "Denmark House". The wild men were heraldic supporters of the Danish royal arms.[150] A table fountain formerly thought to have belonged to Anne's sister-in-law Anna Kathrine (1575-1612), wife of Christian IV, but now known to date from 1648, survives at Rosenborg Castle. It features the story of Actaeon and Diana and was designed to dispense distilled and perfumed waters.[151]

At Denmark House, she had a green enamelled palm tree with a crown and a Latin epigram in gilt letters on the queen's fruitfulness as matriarch of the Stuart succession, composed by her secretary, the poet William Fowler, and based on his anagram of her name; "Anna Brittanorum Regina" - "In anna regnantium arbor".[152][153] The anagram was printed in Henry Peacham's Minerva Brittana (London, 1612), attributed to Fowler, with an image of an olive tree bearing the initials of her three children, Henry, Charles, and Elizabeth.[154] The verse on the tree was:

Perpetuo vernans arbor regnantium in Anna,
Fert fructum et frondes, germine laeta vivo.
Anna's ever flourishing tree,
Bearing fruit and leaves, her happy life continues.[155]

William Fowler's own translation was:

Freshe budding blooming trie,
from ANNA faire which springs,
Growe on blist birth with leaves and fruit,
from branche to branche in kings.[156]

Sir Robert Cecil had referred to Anne of Denmark's children as "your royall branches" in May 1603.[157] The figurative image of Anne of Denmark as a fruitful vine, an olive tree with four branches, was used in a speech made in Parliament after the Gunpowder Plot by Thomas Egerton, 1st Viscount Brackley as Lord Chancellor.[158] The palm tree was admired and described by John Ernest I, Duke of Saxe-Weimar who visited London in 1613.[159] The object seems to have been a salt combined with a clock, described in 1620 with other items of the queen's tableware scheduled for sale as; " a salt of gold in pieces, having a clock within crystal, the foot of same being gold triangle wise, the cover thereof being a castle, and out of the same castle a green tree, the flowers being diamonds and rubies in roses, the same clock salt and crystal garnished with gold, diamonds, and rubies, wanting a dial in the same clock".[160]

Another unusual clock at Denmark House was made in the form of a tortoise of silver-gilt, with 16 flat pearls and 11 smaller pearls forming the shell, with emeralds on the head, neck, and tail, and a clock mounted in its body.[161] When Anne of Denmark was pregnant with her daughter Mary she moved in January 1605 for her confinement or lying-in to special lodgings at Greenwich Palace. A magnificent cupboard of gilt plate was provided for her Privy Chamber.[162] She kept one piece for later use, a "jug of crystal garnished with silver gilt, with a phoenix in the top in a crown, the handle like a horse's head".[163] Following the birth of Princess Mary, King James gave her a diamond jewel and two dozen buttons worth £1550, provided by Arnold Lulls and Philip Jacobson.[164] In February 1612 Christian IV sent her a mirror framed in gold, sprinkled with diamonds, pearls and jewels.[165]

The inventory of 1606

 
Princess Elizabeth, aged about 10 years old, wearing a wire framed attire, by Robert Peake the Elder
 
Anne of Denmark's gold monster with a woman on his back may have been inspired by images like a print by Albrecht Dürer
 
James VI and I gave Anne of Denmark the ruby from the hat badge he called the 'Mirror of Great Britain'

The inventory is held by the National Library of Scotland and includes over 400 items, including pieces inherited from Queen Elizabeth, and gifts from King James and Christian IV. It is not clear if any of the jewels had belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots. The inventory lists the jewels as they were kept, in numbered chests with individual index letters. Contemporary notes added to the inventory record that many pieces were broken up to provide gems to set in tableware. Such pieces were often given to ambassadors as gifts.[166] A necklace of knots of pearls, some set with rubies, was given to the queen's daughter Princess Mary. After the child's death it was given to her nurse.[167]

A "feather" jewel with seven spriggs was deprecated because its stones were topazes set in imitation of diamonds and its pearls, though "fair and round", were Scottish. A note in the inventory shows that when it was dismantled for its gold the topazes were kept back to show the queen.[168] Diamonds were taken from three bracelets when Anne wanted them for new aglet tags. She changed her mind and the diamonds were kept (for a time) in a chest with other loose stones and pearls.[169]

An "attire" for the queen's hair was described in detail; "An Attire for the heade made of wire with hair colour silk, having eleven spiggs, upon every sprigg a great Pearl fastened with silver wire, the middle pearl being the greatest, the gold not going through it, in weight __ 2oz 3dwt 21grs."[170] A portrait medal struck in gold and silver, thought to commemorate her English coronation, represents her jewelled hairstyle in England.[171] Some attires were supplied by tire-makers, shortly before leaving Scotland Anne appointed John Taylor as her tire-maker.[172] Her young companion, Anne Livingstone, recorded the purchase of an attire in similar fashion for herself in 1604, "ane wyer to my haed with nyne pykis" (9 peaks), with a "perewyk of hair to cover the wyr".[173] Livingstone was a member of the household of Princess Elizabeth, whose portraits show these wire framed attires.[174] Anne of Denmark's inventory records gifts of jewels to Livingstone when she left the court and returned to Scotland to marry Sir Alexander Seton of Foulstruther, who was made Earl of Eglinton.[175]

A portrait of Anne of Denmark by Paul van Somer in the National Portrait Gallery, London shows a central jewel in the queen's hair possibly attached to the red ribbon-covered wire of the attire, or more likely pinned in the hair with a bodkin. It comprises a large table-cut diamond with a tuft of feathers, with a pear pearl and a ruby drop beneath. This may be the jewel called the "Portugal diamond" or the "Mirror of France".[176] The "Mirror of Portugal" was acquired by Queen Elizabeth from António, Prior of Crato and re-used by Anne of Denmark with the "Cobham pearl".[177] King James wore the Portugal diamond on his hat on 27 May 1603.[178] The ruby may be the one listed in Elizabeth's 1587 inventory, "to be worne on the forehead".[179]

Anne's 1606 inventory includes, "A faire and great table Diamond being the Diamond of Portingale, set in a plaine thinne Collet of gold, with a very small carnation silk Lace [and] pearl pendant". The inventory notes that John Spilman added a gold bodkin shank or stalk.[180] The Portugal diamond and the Cobham pearl were recorded later in the seventeenth century by drawings made by Thomas Cletcher, a jeweller of The Hague. Cletcher drew jewels belonging to Henrietta Maria during her exile. His album is held by the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen.[181]

Jewels with an Annunciation scene and Diana with three nymphs and Actaeon, probably elements from the lockets given to Anne at baptism of Prince Henry in 1594, were listed together in 1606. The Annunciation was given to Anne Livingstone. Diana and Actaeon was scrapped by Nicasius Russell to make a basin and ewer in 1609.[182]

A jewel in the inventory, dismantled for its diamonds and gold in 1610, depicted a woman on the back of a monster "half a man and half a dragons taile". It was suspended by three chains from a gold knop.[183] The piece may have been inspired by images such as Albrecht Dürer's enigmatic sea monster.[184]

A ruby from the Mirror of Great Britain

King James gave Anne of Denmark the ruby from the jewel known as the 'Mirror of Great Britain' as a New Year's Day gift in January 1608 set in an aigrette with twenty eight small diamonds.[185] The ruby may have been replaced by a diamond to make the 'Mirror of Great Britain' into a symmetric jewel, like the hat badge of King James later drawn by Thomas Cletcher.[186] Contarini noted King James wearing a hat badge with 'five diamonds of extraordinary size' at dinner in February 1610, perhaps the 'Mirror of Great Britain' in this alternative configuration. The Mirror's pendant diamond was the famous Sancy.[187]

Jewels, drawings, and Arthur Bodren

A note in the inventory mentions that Anne of Denmark came to the Jewel House herself on 21 July 1610 to select jewels.[188] A letter dated 23 August 1618 gives an insight into the commissioning of jewels and the re-use of old pieces. It was sent by an unknown courtier to Arthur Bodren, a French servant and page of the bedchamber to Anne of Denmark who kept accounts. He gave money to Inigo Jones for the queen's building works at Greenwich and Oatlands.[189] George Heriot delivered "little things" for the queen to "Arthur Bodrane" of the bedchamber.[190]

The writer had received a message and a "pattern", a drawing, made by Mr Halle for a new jewel. He went to the royal Jewel House to find suitable jewels and rubies to use in the new piece. An old diamond bracelet had the right size stones, but Nicasius Russell had already taken any suitable rubies to set in gold plate for the table. He found a "border", with larger diamonds to send to the queen for approval. Halle told him that would please the queen, who "did mislike of the greater diamonds in his pattern in regard they were too little".[191]

A note written in the 1606 inventory next to an entry for a diamond "girdle or border" identifies it as the piece selected for Bodren to send to Anne of Denmark at Hampton Court in 1618. Arthur Bodren went on to serve Henrietta Maria. He died in 1632 and left legacies to several members of her household including 20 shillings each to Jeffrey Hudson and Little Sara.[192] Contemporary drawings of jewels by a London goldsmith Arnold Lulls survive in the Victoria and Albert Museum.[193]

Anne of Denmark pawned some of her most valuable diamonds in March 1615 for £3,000. The goldsmith John Spilman made record drawings of the cut of eleven stones and indicated the settings of two. He noted them as eight table diamonds set in gold enamelled black, one diamond resembling a glass window quarry, and two lozenge diamonds cut in facets.[194]

Disposal of a royal collection

In her lifetime, Anne give jewels to her friends and supporters. Jewels and lockets that were gifts from Anne of Denmark are mentioned in wills and inventories. In 1640 the Laird of Glenorchy at Balloch Castle had a "round jewell of gold sett with precious stanes conteining twentie nyne diamonds and four great rubbies, quhilk [which] Queene Anna of worthie memorie Queene of Great Britane France and Irland gave to umquhill [the late] Sir Duncane Campbell of Glenurquhy. Item ane gold ring sett with ane great diamond schapine [shaped] lyke a heart and four uther small diamonds, quhilk the said Queene Anna of worthie memorie gave to the said Sir Duncane".[195] Anne of Denmark sent the "round jewel" to the Laird of Glenorchy in 1607 to wear in his hat.[196]

She did not leave a will bequeathing her jewels. In the years before her death, Prince Charles asked her to make her will, leaving her jewels to him, which did not please King James at all.[197][198] The lawyer Edward Coke made a note at Denmark House on 19 January 1619 that she wished her "rich stuff, jewels, and plate" to be annexed to the crown, added to the Crown Jewels.[199]

An inventory of her jewels and plate was made after her death by Sir Lionel Cranfield on 19 April 1619.[200] Anne had played the virginals, and the case of one instrument at Denmark House was made of green velvet embroidered with pearls.[201] Soon after the inventory was made, the queen's French page Piero Hugon and the "Dutch maid Anna" were taken to the Tower of London accused of stealing jewels.[202] George Heriot produced "models" or drawings of missing jewels which he had supplied to the queen, said to be worth £63,000.[203] The goldsmith and financier Peter Vanlore advanced £18,000 on some of the remaining jewels to pay the costs of the king's summer progress.[204]

King James directed his officers to sell some minor items from Anne's collection and wardrobe in July 1619, including fabrics and gowns that had belonged to former queens. Some "jewels, precious stones, plate, and ornaments" had already been sold. The next sales were to include "loose and ragged pearls, some parcels of silver plate, together with broken and ends of silver, linen which hath been much worn, cabinets, remnants of stuff of all sorts, old robes and garments of former queens of this realm".[205] Anne's collection also included some of the clothes of Henry VIII.[206]

King James asked Cranfield to bring a selection of jewels to him from the Tower of London in March 1623, including the queen's fine pendant diamonds, and jewels "fittest for the wearing of women".[207] In 1623 these and others jewels were sent to Spain during the Spanish Match, some with Francis Stewart including the "Portugal diamond".[208] An inventory was made in May 1625 of a chest of her remaining jewels, including the circlet, the crown used at her Scottish coronation in 1590, and a head attire with nine great round pearls.[209] Jewels including the circlet were acquired and sold in 1630 by James Maxwell, 1st Earl of Dirletoun.[210] The crown of the Scottish queens, possibly made for Mary of Guise by John Mosman in 1540 was in the Tower of London in 1649, described as a "small crown found in an iron chest, formerly in the Lord Cottington's charge".[211]

Charles I gave Princess Mary a crystal casting bottle set with rubies and diamonds with a chain featuring his mother's "AR" cipher at her marriage to the Prince of Orange on 30 April 1641.[212]

Jewel thieves

Servants of Anne of Denmark were accused and convicted of stealing her jewels on several occasions, Jacob Kroger in 1594, Margaret Hartsyde in 1608, Piero Hugon and "Dutch maid Anna" in 1619.[213] Dorothy Silken was alleged to have taken gilt plate.[214] "Dutch maid Anna" was probably the favourite domestic servant "Mistress Anna" or Anna Kaas, who was said to have received the queen's valuable linen at her death, despite being "so mean a gentlewoman".[215] "Danish Anna" was with the queen at Hampton Court at her deathbed.[216]

A chest of the queen's jewels discovered at Denmark House in 1621 is mentioned in the royal jewel inventories, and 37 diamonds from these "secret jewels" were used to decorate a miniature of King James sent to Elizabeth of Bohemia.[217] This find is sometimes connected with the theft by Piero Hugon and Danish Anna.[218]

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  110. ^ See TNA SP 14/6 f.21 for a description of this mirror, for a comparable clock & mirror see A. Collins, Jewels and Plate of Queen Elizabeth, p. 268-9 no. 7.
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  168. ^ Diana Scarisbrick, 'Anne of Denmark's Jewellery Inventory', Archaeologia, vol. CIX (1991), p. 237.
  169. ^ Diana Scarisbrick, 'Anne of Denmark's Jewellery Inventory', pp. 231 nos. 355-7, 236 no. 398.
  170. ^ Diana Scarisbrick, 'Anne of Denmark's Jewellery Inventory', p. 197.
  171. ^ See external links.
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  175. ^ Diana Scarisbrick, 'Anne of Denmark's Jewellery Inventory', pp. 200, 212-3, 226: Jemma Field, Anna of Denmark: The Material and Visual Culture of the Stuart Courts (Manchester, 2020), p. 140.
  176. ^ Janet Arnold, Princely Magnificence: Court Jewels of the Renaissance (London, 1980), p. 108.
  177. ^ Diana Scarisbrick, Tudor and Jacobean Jewellery (London, 1995), pp. 67, 72: Thomas Rymer, Foedera, vol. 7 part 1 (Hague, 1739), p. 75
  178. ^ Horatio Brown, Calendar State Papers, Venice: 1603-1607, vol. 10 (London, 1900), p. 39 no. 66.
  179. ^ Janet Arnold, Princely Magnificence: Court Jewels of the Renaissance (London, 1980), p. 108.
  180. ^ Diana Scarisbrick, 'Anne of Denmark's Jewellery Inventory', p. 223.
  181. ^ John Hayward, 'The Arnold Lulls Book of Jewels and the Court Jewellers of Anne of Denmark', Archaeologia, 108 (1986), pp. 234-6.
  182. ^ Diana Scarisbrick, 'Anne of Denmark's Jewellery Inventory', p. 223.
  183. ^ Diana Scarisbrick, 'Anne of Denmark's Jewellery Inventory', p. 223 no. 367.
  184. ^ Dürer, 'Sea monster', RCT
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  186. ^ John Hayward, 'The Arnold Lulls Book of Jewels and the Court Jewellers of Anne of Denmark', Archaeologia, 108 (1986), p. 235, pl. 87c: Jack Ogden, Diamonds: An Early History of the King of Gems (Yale, 2018), p. 190.
  187. ^ Horatio Brown, Calendar State Papers, Venice: 1607-1610, vol. 11 (London, 1904), p. 430 no. 801.
  188. ^ Diana Scarisbrick, 'Anne of Denmark's Jewellery Inventory', Archaeologia, vol. CIX (1991), p. 215.
  189. ^ HMC Salisbury Hatfield, vol. 24 (London, 1976), p. 67: George H Chettle, 'Appendix 4: Extracts from the building accounts', in Survey of London Monograph 14, the Queen's House, Greenwich (London, 1937), pp. 97-113. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/bk14/pp97-113 [accessed 29 April 2021].
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  192. ^ Diana Scarisbrick, 'Anne of Denmark's Jewellery Inventory', Archaeologia, vol. CIX (1991), p. 228: TNA PROB 11/161/622, will of "Arthur Bodrey".
  193. ^ John Hayward, 'The Arnold Lulls Book of Jewels and the Court Jewellers of Anne of Denmark', Archaeologia, 108 (1986), p. 228.
  194. ^ Calendar State Papers Domestic, James I: 1611-1618, p. 61: TNA SP14/80 f.88.
  195. ^ Cosmo Innes, Black Book of Taymouth: Papers from the Breadalbane Charter Room (Edinburgh, 1855), p. 346: Compare Scarisbrick 'Inventory', p. 218 no. 264.
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  200. ^ HMC 4th Report: De La Warre (London, 1874), p. 302, the present location of this copy is unclear: see also Duchy of Cornwall Office Bound MSS: Inrollments of Patents, 1618-20.
  201. ^ Andrew Ashbee, Records of English Court Music, 1603-1625, vol. 4 (1991), p. 206.
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  203. ^ Thomas Birch & Folkestone Williams, Court and Times of James the First, vol. 2 (London, 1848), p. 167.
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  208. ^ Lesley Ellis Miller, 'Dress to Impress: Prince Charles plays Madrid', Alexander Samson, The Spanish Match: Prince Charles's Journey to Madrid (Ashgate, 2006), pp. 27-50: Thomas Rymer, Foedera, vol. 17 (London, 1717), pp. 508-12.
  209. ^ Calendar of State Papers Domestic, Charles I, 1625-1626, p. 137 citing SP 16/8 f.105.
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  218. ^ Raymond Walter Needham, Somerset House: Past and Present (London, 1877), p. 80.

External links

  • 'Anna of Denmark, and The Eglinton Jewel', National Galleries of Scotland
  • 'Anna of Denmasrk and pearls', National Galleries of Scotland
  • Depicting Anna of Denmark: Images of Anna of Denmark: 1574-1603, Sara Ayres and Joseph Massey
  • Depicting Anna of Denmark: Images of Anna of Denmark, The English and Irish Accession, Sara Ayres and Joseph B.R. Massey
  • Gold medal commemorating the English coronation of Queen Anne, 1603, Royal Museums Greenwich
  • Silver medal commemorating the English coronation of Queen Anne, British Museum
  • Portrait of Anna of Denmark, 1595, circle of Adrian Vanson, National Galleries of Scotland
  • Portrait of Anna of Denmark, circa 1605 with diamond and cabochon ruby pendant, after John de Critz, Sotheby's, 23 September 2020 lot 97
  • Portrait of Anna of Denmark, circa 1605 with diamond and cabochon ruby pendant, after John de Critz, Government Art Collection
  • Portrait of Anna of Denmark, circa 1605 with diamond and cabochon ruby pendant, after John de Critz, Colchester and Ipswich Museums Service
  • Portrait of Anna of Denmark, after John de Critz, Blickling Hall, National Trust
  • Portrait of Anna of Denmark, John de Critz, National Portrait Gallery, London
  • Portrait of Anna of Denmark, with a diamond aigrette and pear pearl tire, circle of John de Critz, St John's College Cambridge
  • Portrait of Anna of Denmark, dated 1614, attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the younger, Royal Collection, Holyrood Palace
  • Portrait of Anna of Denmark, Paul van Somer, Royal Collection
  • Portrait of Anna of Denmark, after John de Critz, National Galleries Scotland
  • Miniature of Anna of Denmark, Isaac Oliver, National Portrait Gallery, London
  • Portrait of Anne of Denmark, anonymous oil on panel, National Galleries Scotland
  • Elizabeth Cary, 1st Viscountess Falkland, Paul Van Somer, MFAH

January 07, 2023
jewels, anne, denmark, jewels, anne, denmark, 1572, 1619, wife, james, queen, consort, scotland, england, known, from, accounts, inventories, their, depiction, portraits, artists, including, paul, somer, pieces, survive, some, modern, historians, prefer, name,. The jewels of Anne of Denmark 1572 1619 wife of James VI and I and queen consort of Scotland and England are known from accounts and inventories and their depiction in portraits by artists including Paul van Somer 1 A few pieces survive Some modern historians prefer the name Anna to Anne following the spelling of numerous examples of her signature Anne of Denmark depicted with a diamond aigrette and pearl hair attire by John de Critz 1605 Contents 1 Goldsmiths and jewellers 1 1 George Heriot 1 2 Heriot and loans to the King and Queen 1 3 Heriot and the court in England 1 4 Goldsmiths and gifts 1 5 England and Queen Elizabeth s jewels 1 6 The circlet and the English coronation 1 7 Jewels at court 1 8 Ambassadors and jewels 1 9 Descriptions of the queen and her jewels 1 10 Decorative arts table fountains salts and clocks 2 The inventory of 1606 3 A ruby from the Mirror of Great Britain 4 Jewels drawings and Arthur Bodren 5 Disposal of a royal collection 5 1 Jewel thieves 6 References 7 External linksGoldsmiths and jewellers Edit Anne of Denmark Nicholas Hilliard James VI and Anne of Denmark were married by proxy in August 1589 and in person when they met at Oslo Lord Dingwall and the King s proxy the Earl Marischal bought a jewel in Denmark given to her at the time of the contracting of the marriage 2 A diamond ring was involved in these ceremonies described as a great ring of gold enamelled set with five diamonds hand in hand in the midst called the espousall ring of Denmark This ring and a gold jewel with the crowned initials J A R picked out in diamonds were earmarked as important Scottish jewels and brought to England by King James in 1603 in the keeping of his favourite Sir George Home 3 James goldsmiths returned some royal pieces to him at Leith before he set out jewels they held as pledges for loans 4 While he was in Denmark James VI ordered his chancellor John Maitland of Thirlestane to give jewels to Christian IV and his mother Sophie of Mecklenburg to other royals at the wedding of Elisabeth of Denmark and Henry Julius Duke of Brunswick Luneburg on 19 April 1590 and to the admiral Peder Munk These gifts included four great table diamonds and two great rubies set in gold rings which the master of the royal wardrobe William Keith of Delny had brought to Denmark 5 When Anne of Denmark arrived in Scotland in May 1590 the city of Edinburgh organised a ceremony of Royal Entry 6 The queen was led to various sites in the town and finally a rich jewel was lowered to her on a length of silk ribbon from the Netherbow Gate This jewel comprising a large emerald and diamond set in gold with pendant pearls had been enlarged and remade by David Gilbert a nephew of Michael Gilbert from an older royal jewel which James VI had pledged to the town for a loan 7 The jewel was called the A probably referring to the crowned initial or cipher of A embroidered with gold thread on its purple velvet case 8 Soon after her coronation the Earl of Worcester came as ambassador to Scotland from Elizabeth I He brought Anne a richly wrought cloak set with jewels a carkat of pearls with a tablet a necklace and a clock or watch 9 She brought a German jeweller Jacob Kroger with her to Scotland in May 1590 Kroger is known to have made fixing and buttons for the queen s costume he described his work to an English border official John Carey in 1594 10 Kroger fled to England with some of the queen s jewels and a French stable worker called Guillaume Martin He was returned to Edinburgh and executed 11 He may have been replaced by a French goldsmith called Clei of whom little is known 12 When Anne of Denmark was pregnant in December 1593 it was said that James VI gave Anne of Denmark the greatest part of his jewels 13 possibly including the large table cut diamond and cabochon ruby pendant known as the Great H of Scotland which had belonged to Mary Queen of Scots 14 Her son Prince Henry was born at Stirling Castle on 19 February On 8 April 1594 possibly marking her churching James VI gave Anne a gold garnishing or headdress made by Thomas Foulis with two rubies and 24 diamonds and an opal ring 15 In August 1594 her son Prince Henry was baptised at Stirling Castle Joachim von Bassewitz was sent by Anne s grandfather the Duke of Mecklenburg with a gold chain or necklace for the queen described as very fair and antique By antique it was meant the piece was made in modern classicising renaissance style The necklace comprised rubies chrysolites and hyacinths set in roses Bassewitz explained that it represented the combined English roses of York and Lancaster It was suitable to wear on the front of gown made after the French fashion as the Queene now doth use 16 Adam Crusius the ambassador from the Duke of Brunswick brought his master s miniature portrait in a locket with his name set in diamonds and a scene of the death of Actaeon watched by Diana and her nymphs his blood running from the byting of the Doggs picked out with polished rubies 17 A large pendant showing a scene of Diana and Actaeon is depicted worn on the sleeve in a 1589 portrait of Frances Brydges Lady Chandos by Hieronimo Custodis at Woburn Abbey 18 It was customary at the Scottish court to give gifts on News Years Day In January 1596 James VI gave Anne of Denmark a pair of gold bracelets set with stones and pearls a ruby ring and a tablet and carcan set with diamonds and rubies The gifts were supplied by the goldsmith and financier Thomas Foulis from the money James VI received as a subsidy from Elizabeth I and the custom duty of the Scottish gold mines 19 In January 1600 James gave her a great emerald set around with diamonds and another jewel set with 29 diamonds and in January 1601 a gift provided by George Heriot cost 1 333 Scots 20 Anne of Denmark owned clothes embroidered with pearls 21 In 1597 she ordered an elaborate gown embroidered with jet beads and buttons which proved too heavy to wear and her tailor was ordered to start again 22 George Heriot Edit From the early 1590s George Heriot sold pieces to Anne of Denmark and he was appointed goldsmith to the Queen on 17 July 1597 23 In August 1599 Heriot was paid 400 Sterling from the English annuity a sum of money which Queen Elizabeth sent to Scotland for jewels delivered to Anne of Denmark He also provided items of embroidered costume and hats to the queen and her children 24 Several of her Scottish accounts and bills were checked and paid by William Schaw Chamberlain of Dumfermline 25 Itemised jewels include a diamond feather with an emerald to wear in a hat ane fethir for ane hatt quherein thair is sett ane greit Imerod amp ane uther Jewell conteining lxxiij dyamentis 26 A surviving chain or necklace thought to have been made in Edinburgh for an Edinburgh merchant or his wife resembles a design by Corvinianus Saur an Augsburg jeweller who worked for Christian IV in 1596 and became his court jeweller in 1613 This piece may demonstrate close links in fashion between the royal courts of Scotland and Denmark and the upper reaches of Edinburgh society The links of the necklace held in a private collection have a central diamond surrounded by open gold work enamelled black with a simple crown 27 Heriot and loans to the King and Queen Edit George Heriot made loans to Anne of Denmark often secured on jewels On 29 July 1601 he returned a feather or aigrette of rubies and diamonds set around an emerald which she had pledged for a loan 28 A request for a loan not dated written by Anne survives Gordg Heriott I ernestlie dissyr youe present to send me tua hundrethe pundes withe all expidition becaus I man hest me away presentlie Anna R 29 A letter from James VI to Mark Kerr of Newbattle of June 1599 mentions that he had instructed John Preston of Fentonbarns to repay from tax receipts a sum of money advanced on the security of some of the queen s jewels to George Heriot James VI required the relief of our said dearest bedfellow s jewels engaged Preston however had reserved the money for the costs of an embassy to France As the departure of his ambassador was delayed James VI wanted Mark Kerr to ensure that Heriot was now paid The King thought the transaction touched us so nearly in honour The letter is often quoted as an example of the queen s extravagance although it does not mention that this particular loan which James was anxious to repay from his revenue had been made to the queen 30 A warrant from James VI dated July 1598 to the treasurer Walter Stewart of Blantyre requests 3 000 merks to be used to redeem jewels belonging to the queen pledged by his direction and command The money was given to Andrew Stewart Lord Ochiltree who paid off a loan possibly from Heriot and redeemed two of the queen s jewels 31 James VI borrowed 6 720 from Heriot for which he pledged a jewel set with 74 diamonds probably one of his own hat feathers 32 In 1603 Anne pledged a jewel with 73 diamonds with a thin table diamond and two emeralds to Heriot as security for a debt to him of 7 539 13s 4d Scots After the Union of the Crowns she continued to obtain jewels and loans from Heriot occasionally ordering the chamberlain of her estates Lord Carew to make repayments 33 A gold cross with seven diamonds and two rubies pawned by Anne of Denmark to Heriot in May 1609 seems to be mentioned in several earlier inventories and accounts and probably had belonged to Mary Queen of Scots and her mother Mary of Guise 34 In March 1613 to finance her progress to Bath Anne pawned a fair round jewel with a diamond to Heriot for 1 200 The jewel was delivered to Lady Rommeny Rebecca Romney the widow of a London merchant by George Abercromby a gentleman of the wardrobe 35 Heriot and the court in England Edit Heriot s surviving bills for jewellery supplied to Anna of Denmark mostly date from 1605 to 1615 totalling around 40 000 One account was audited by Justinian Povey in February 1617 36 Her servants Jean Drummond Margaret Hartsyde and Dorothea Silking often dealt with him and made payments on her behalf 37 Hartsyde and Silking looked after the jewels that Anne wore and may have dressed her When she moved from place to place on progress her jewels were kept secure by William Bell clerk of the jewel coffers 38 She frequently wore a miniature portrait of Isabella Clara Eugenia and Heriot mended its locket case twice 39 She was less keen on full size portraits of the Archduchess and her husband and considered giving them away to a friend in Scotland 40 Surviving pieces made by Heriot for Anne include a gold miniature case set with her initials in diamonds now held by the Fitzwilliam Museum which the queen may have gifted to her lady in waiting Anne Livingstone 41 and a pair of earrings which include the enamelled face of an African man in a private collection 42 The earrings were itemised by Heriot in 1609 as two pendants made as more s heads and all sett with diamonds price 70 She also had a pendant with a Moore s head 43 44 45 She had African servants attending her horse in Scotland and in England 46 These pieces may have reflected her fascination with the representation of African people in the theatre as in her Masque of Blackness 47 48 Elizabethan aristocrats had also worn jewellery decorated with images of African or Moorish people in 1561 the Earl of Pembroke owned a brooch with an agate cameo of a woman morens hedde with a white launde upon the hedde and the Gresley Jewel includes an onyx cameo of this description and two gold African archers 49 Such cameos were supplied by a London goldsmith John Mabbe 50 Heriot provided a chain of gems and pearls with her portrait miniature which Anne of Denmark gave to the Spanish ambassador the Count of Villamediana in October 1605 and she gave his senior companion the Constable of Castile a rather more expensive diamond encrusted locket made by John Spilman containing her portrait and James 51 Heriot made the diamond set jewel which the queen presented to Jane Meautys on her wedding to Sir William Cornwallis in 1610 52 Heriot also supplied jewels to Prince Henry 53 Anne of Denmark after Paul van Somer RCT Detail of a portrait by Paul van Somer showing Anne of Denmark wearing the crossbow a head tire with pearls and other jewels National Portrait Gallery London Heriot made jewels for Anne of Denmark with ciphers or initials picked out with diamonds S presumably for her mother Sophie of Mecklenburg Gustrow C4 for her brother Christian IV of Denmark and AR for herself 54 Christian sent a diamond C4 to Anne in June 1611 a gift noted by the Venetian ambassador Antonio Foscarini 55 56 Some jewels made for Christian IV were designed by a Hamburg goldsmith Jacob Mores died 1612 His drawings include pieces with diamond set initials and monograms 57 Such jewels with ciphers were depicted in Anne of Denmar s portraits especially those by Paul van Somer Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger and in miniature by Isaac Oliver 58 59 Portraits of other women in the queen s circle depict jewelled miniature cases or lockets with an A AR or R for Anna Regina including those of Margaret Hay Countess of Dunfermline and Elizabeth Grey Countess of Kent and Anne Livingstone 60 The miniature case in the Fitzwilliam has two monograms one set with diamonds and the other in enamel CAR and AA with the closed S the s ferme or fermesse a symbol used in correspondence of the period as a mark of affection 61 The S would also have alluded to Anne s mother Sophie of Mecklenburg 62 63 64 The case also includes a CC cipher for Christian IV Heriot supplied a jewel with an A and two CC sett with diamonds 65 In October 1620 King James gave one of Anne of Denmark s lockets to an ambassador from Savoy the Marquis Villa It was set with diamonds and contained portraits of the king and queen the Elector Palatine and his wife Elizabeth and was worth about 2 000 crowns 66 Such jewellery emphasising family relationships was commissioned by Anne s family A gold bracelet with crowned and enamelled AC ciphers surviving at Rosenborg Castle may have been Christian IV s gift to his wife Anna Cathrine 67 Goldsmiths and gifts Edit Anne of Denmark also obtained jewels in the 1590s from another Edinburgh goldsmith Thomas Foulis including a pair of bracelets set with gemstones and pearls and a tablet all diamonds with a carcan of diamonds and rubies These were New Year s Day gifts from King James 68 Foulis and his partner Robert Jousie were involved in collecting the King s English subsidy in London and bought a sapphire engraved with Queen Elizabeth s portrait for Anne of Denmark in 1598 made by Cornelius Dreghe an associate of Abraham Harderet 69 Cornelius Draggie turned up in Edinburgh in 1601 attempting to set up a weaver s workshop to exploit generous subsidies for expert craftsmen but the other weavers protested he was a lapidary not a weaver 70 Margaret Hay Countess of Dunfermline wears a jewel with an AR cipher Marcus Gheeraerts the younger Dunedin Public Art Gallery Other goldsmiths who supplied Anne of Denmark in England include Arnold Lulls William Herrick John Spilman Nicholas Howker Abraham der Kinderen and Abraham Harderet who received an annual fee of 50 as the queen s jeweller 71 Spilman made a jewel with the AR cipher as the queen s gift to the Count of Aremburgh 72 Nicholas Howker made a chain which Anne of Denmark gave to the Spanish ambassador the Count of Villamediana as his parting gift in February 1606 It comprised gold snakes enamelled green set with diamonds 73 Anne of Denmark gave another chain which had 86 elements including 22 green snakes set with small pearls and sparks of ruby to Anne Livingstone 74 In 1603 the Earl of Rutland was sent to Denmark as ambassador to announce the successful Union of the Crowns He bought four jewels in London for 75 as gifts for the Danish royal family including a gold pelican set with an opal and wings studded with rubies which cost 9 75 Arnold Lulls made a jewel for Anne of Denmark intended as a gift for Margaret of Austria Queen of Spain Charles Howard 1st Earl of Nottingham presented this jewel depicting the Habsburg emblems of a diamond double eagle and golden fleece to the Queen of Spain in Madrid in May 1605 76 Anne gave jewels as gifts at christenings She gave her lawyer Lawrence Hyde and his wife Barbara a diamond ring 77 England and Queen Elizabeth s jewels Edit At the Union of the Crowns in 1603 King James travelled south towards London leaving Anne of Denmark in Scotland Scaramelli a Venetian diplomat in London heard a rumour that Anne of Denmark had given away jewels costume and hangings to her ladies remaining in Scotland 78 In April 1603 King James ordered that some of Elizabeth s jewels and a hairdresser Blanche Swansted should be sent to Berwick upon Tweed so that Anne of Denmark would appear like an English queen as she crossed the border James reiterated this request explaining these jewels were to be selected by Elizabeth s household attendants for Anne s ordinary apparelling and ornament 79 On 20 May a commission was appointed to inventory the remaining jewels in Mary Radcliffe s keeping and select the most suitable to be reserved as crown jewels The remainder was returned to Radcliffe on 28 May 80 Over the coming year the remaining jewels were carefully examined and sorted 81 Lady Hatton petitioned to become keeper of the queen s jewels and to help dress her 82 Most of the jewels in Radcliffe s keeping were transferred to the new keeper Lady Suffolk or as jewels of price secured in the Tower of London 83 An inventory of some of Elizabeth s jewels made at this time included a brooch with a miniature of Henry VIII placed under a diamond set crown and other old pieces like a pater noster or rosary of garnet and a gold honeysuckle valued at 12 which may have a badge of Anne Boleyn 84 Many of Queen Elizabeth s jewels were kept by Mary Radcliffe ready for her to wear On 13 May 1603 King James had asked her to go through the jewels with Catherine Howard Countess of Suffolk presumably to make a selection for Anne of Denmark 85 A note in an inventory dated 19 May 1603 records that James selected a diamond set gold crossbow on that day perhaps to send to Anne of Denmark who was later depicted wearing a crossbow jewel in her hair The motif may be related to an emblem of Geffrey Whitney who sees in the crossbow an allegory of the superiority of wit or ingenuity to brute strength 86 A crossbow jewel in Anne of Denmark s inventory perhaps the same piece had a red enamelled heart at the string 87 In response to the king s orders jewels were taken from the Tower of London on 8 June 1603 and delivered to Lady Suffolk who had been a keeper of Elizabeth s jewels to give to Anne of Denmark 88 Anne of Denmark arrived in York on 11 June 89 A gift of chain of pearls sent north by James to their daughter Princess Elizabeth arrived at York Anne admired the pearls and swopped them for a set of ruby buttons which may have once belonged to Mary Queen of Scots Years later Elizabeth gave the ruby buttons to Frances Tyrrell 90 Lady Anne Clifford noted that Lady Suffolk who brought jewels from the Tower of London was with the queen at Dingley on 24 June 91 Lady Suffolk joined Anne of Denmark s household and became the keeper of her jewels 92 The queen normally travelled wearing a face mask to protect her complexion 93 but in June 1603 she rode towards London without a mask in order to be seen by her new subjects and Dudley Carleton wrote as for her favour she hath done it some wrong for in all this journey she hath worn no mask 94 The French ambassador Christophe de Harlay Count of Beaumont thought the queen was a Catholic and heard that she secretly wore a little cross at her breast with a relic of the True Cross 95 The circlet and the English coronation Edit Ariscratic women dressed in ermine with jewelled coronets including Helena Snakenborg Marchioness of Northampton paid homage to Anne of Denmark at Windsor Castle and at Westminster Abbey in July 1603 One of first formal events involving Anne and her jewels was a reception of her ladies and aristocratic women at Windsor Castle on 2 July 1603 an event held in parallel with the installation of James Knights of the Garter The great ladies paid homage in turn most sumptuous in apparel and exceeding rich and glorious in jewels 96 This was probably the day when Elizabeth Carey was sworn in as a lady of the privy chamber and mistress of the sweet coffers 97 The coronation of James and Anne was held on 25 July 1603 at Westminster Abbey and Anne was provided with a jewelled circlet made by the London goldsmiths John Spilman and William Herrick The circlet included gemstones salvaged from Queen Elizabeth s jewels 98 The bill for making the circlet is held at the library of the University of Edinburgh 99 Item made a rich circulet of gould for the Queene set with dyamonds rubyes saphires emeraldes and pearles for the fashion thereof cl li 150 100 An Order of Service mentions in Latin that her hair would be loose about her shoulders with the gem set gold circlet on her head 101 The circlet was described in detail in March 1630 A circlet of gold new made for our late dear mother Queen Anne having in the midst eight fair diamonds of various sorts eight fair rubies eight emeralds and eight sapphires garnished with thirty two small diamonds thirty two small rubies and three score and four 64 pearls fixed and on each border thirty two small diamonds and thirty two small rubies 102 Despite Spilman and Herrick s work on the circlet and the sacrifice of Elizabeth s jewels it seems to have made little impact on the diplomatic community as Scaramelli and Giovanni degli Effetti reported that she went to her coronation on Monday 25 July 1603 with a plain band of gold on her head 103 A list of jewels requested by William Segar from the Jewel House for the coronation mentions a circle of gold for the Queen to wear when she goeth to her coronation perhaps indicating that she did not wear the new circlet that King James had ordered However Benjamin von Buwinckhausen a diplomat from the Duchy of Wurttemberg described her seated in Westminster Abbey wearing a heavy coronet set with precious stones 104 She was crowned with one of Elizabeth s wearing crowns 105 The new circlet was added to the Crown Jewels in March 1606 but remained in Anne s keeping 106 107 Jewels at court Edit In January 1604 a jewel was featured in The Masque of Indian and China Knights at Hampton Court 108 It was sold to King James by Peter Vanlore and was perhaps a diamond jewel with a pendant pearl costing 760 109 At this time Vanlore sold to James another jewel comprising a large table ruby and two lozenge diamonds for which he received in part exchange a parcel of Queen Elizabeth s jewels The parcel included pieces that had been in the keeping of another of Elizabeth s ladies in waiting the late Catherine Howard Countess of Nottingham a combined looking glass and clock with the figure of woman on a pillar wearing a table diamond on her forepart 110 and items taken from a ship regarded as a prize at sea The parcel was valued at 5492 11s 2d and Vanlore received a further payment of 11 477 in February 111 Dudley Carleton heard the jewel in the masque cost James 40 000 more than twice this sum and presumably an exaggeration 112 Later in January 1604 an inventory was made of other jewels from Elizabeth s collection still in the keeping of Earl of Nottingham including brooches fashioned like winding serpents set with emeralds 113 A selection was made of a number of Elizabeth s jewels listed in the Stowe inventory British Library Stowe 557 on 30 January 1604 presumably for sale or exchange 114 A 15th or 16th century coral branch with serpent s tongues intended to test for poison Vienna Treasury of the German Order Auditor Gofton made a list of 29 jewels formerly in the Jewel House at the Tower of London which King James had given to Anne of Denmark on various occasions 115 He was rewarded with 20 in November 1614 for his work making inventories of jewels at the Tower over a decade 116 In December 1607 King James retrieved some pieces from the Jewel House and sent them to the goldsmiths William Herrick and John Spilman for refurbishment He gave four pieces to Anne of Denmark a cup made of unicorn s horn with a gold cover believed to guard against poison set with diamonds and pearls a gold jug or ewer a salt with a branch set with sapphires and serpent s tongues really fossilized shark teeth also a safeguard against poisoning and a crystal chess board with topaz and crystal pieces 117 Anne of Denmark kept a chain or collar made up of three sorts of knots of diamonds with a pendant like a gold key set with diamonds This had been given to Elizabeth by the Earl of Leicester in 1584 Anne gave it to her daughter Elizabeth and she wears it in a portrait by Meirevelt now at the museum of Chalons sur Saone Elizabeth of Bohemia pawned the chain in the 1650s and her son Charles Louis redeemed it 118 Another collar was made up of letters in Spanish work spelling out a Latin motto Gemma preciosior intus a greater jewel within At the centre were the Greek letters alpha and omega This had been Thomas Heneage s gift to Elizabeth in 1589 119 Anne had it lengthened by John Spilman in July 1610 adding the components of another Spanish work collar Then in April 1611 Anne ordered Spilman and Nicasius Russell to dismantle parts of it for jewels to adorn table salts and a gold bowl James may have given the remaining collar to the Duchess of Lennox as a New Year s Day gift in 1622 120 Ambassadors and jewels Edit The Venetian ambassador Nicolo Molin was granted an English coat of arms featuring the wheel of a watermill punning on his name He gave Anne of Denmark a gold ring with an aquamarine with the motto Una gota de aqui de molyne meaning a drop of water from the mill 121 Wiliam Herrick and Arnold Lulls were paid in October 1606 for pearls given by King James to Anne and for two pictures of gold set with stone which she gave to the French ambassador Christophe de Harlay Count of Beaumont and his wife Anne Rabot 122 Ambassadors had regular audiences with Anne of Denmark and their wives also came to see the queen John Finet described a visit of Isabelle Brulart the wife of French ambassador Gaspard Dauvet Sieur des Marets at Denmark House in December 1617 although no gifts are mentioned 123 Anne and her ladies in waiting received gifts from ambassadors In 1603 the French ambassadors the Marquis de Rosny and Christophe de Harlay Count of Beaumont gave her a mirror of Venice crystal in a gold box set with diamonds and a gold table clock with diamonds to Lucy Russell Countess of Bedford a gold box with the French king s portrait to Lady Rich and a pearl and diamond necklace to Lady Rosmont Rosny also gave a diamond ring to Margaret Aisan a favourite lady of the queen s bedchamber this was Margaret Hartsyde a Scottish servant who lacked the aristocratic status of the other women 124 Juan Fernandez de Velasco Constable of Castile commissioned jewels in Antwerp as gifts to distribute at the English court in 1604 Against the current custom he tried to buy on a sale or return basis and was flatly refused 125 He gave jewels to prominent figures in Anna s houseshold likely to promote the Catholic cause Lady Anna Hay received a gold anchor studded with 39 diamonds and Jean Drummond an aigrette studded with 75 diamonds both pieces supplied by a Brussels jeweller Jean Guiset 126 127 King James and Anne sent a variety of gifts to Brussels in 1605 including deer dogs horses and caparisons and Anne sent the Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia embroidered waistcoats and pillow cases which she politely declared were finer than any Spanish needlework 128 After the Gunpowder plot the Queen of Spain sent an embassy to congratulate the royal family on their safe deliverance bringing Anne a Spanish style satin robe embellished with gilt leather with 48 long gold tags or aglets at 3 inches longer than those used in England with chains and necklaces of gold beads all filled with scented ambergris 129 Scent was a feature of Spanish diplomacy Villamediana brought a perfumer in 1603 130 In January 1604 Marie de Medici Queen of France sent Anne of Denmark a cabinet inset with panels scented with musk and ambergris to make a sweet savour The drawers were full of flowers for setting in head attires and other jewels 131 A similar item was listed in 1619 at Denmark House a cabinet of pomander containing a curious suite of pomander in a store room next to the little bedchamber 132 In May 1613 Anne went to Bath to take the waters for her health The ambassador of Savoy started to follow her bringing a gift of a crystal casket mounted with silver gilt but gave up and returned to London He had brought lions and other live beasts for King James 133 Descriptions of the queen and her jewels Edit Playwright Elizabeth Cary wears her hair in petals a style worn by Anne of Denmark in 1617 MFAH Ambassadors frequently described Anne of Denmark s magnificent appearance The Venetian diplomats Piero Duodo and Nicolo Molin had an audience with Anne of Denmark at Wilton House in November 1603 she was seated under a canopy covered with jewels and strings of pearls 134 The Constable of Castille saw Anne of Denmark at Whitehall Palace on 25 August 1604 She was sitting on a throne with a canopy or cloth of estate decorated with rubies emeralds and hyacinths watching dancing On 28 August he had his formal audience with the queen who was attended by twenty beautiful Maids of Honour 135 The Venetian ambassador Zorzi Giustinian wrote that the queen and her ladies pearls and jewels were a highlight of The Masque of Beauty 136 Giustinian thought such an abundant and splendid display could not be rivalled by another royal court 137 Antonio Foscarini admired her pearls at the wedding of Princess Elizabeth in 1613 she wore in her hair a number of pear shaped pearls the most beautiful in the world 138 She wore diamonds all over her white satin costume so that she appeared ablaze 139 The jewels were thought to be worth 400 000 140 In December 1617 Orazio Busino the chaplain of Piero Contarini described Anne of Denmark at Somerset House She was seated under a canopy of gold brocade Her costume was pink and gold low cut at the front in an oval shape and her farthingale was four feet wide Her hair was dressed with diamonds and other jewels and extended in rays or like the petals of a sunflower with artificial hair 141 Ben Jonson mentioned jewels worn by nine female performers on 14 January 1608 at the Throne of Beauty in his account of The Masque of Beauty the habit and dressing for the fashion was most curious and so exceeding riches that the throne whereon they sat seemed to be a mine of light struck from their jewels and their garments 142 Anne wore a collar of diamonds and ciphers of P and M which had belonged to Mary I of England 143 Busino gave a description of the jewels and costume of aristocrats and ladies in waiting in the audience at the masque on 6 January 1617 Jonson s The Vision of Delight every box was filled notably with most noble and richly arrayed ladies in number some 600 and more according to the general estimate the dresses being of such variety in cut and colour as to be indescribable the most delicate plumes over their heads springing from their foreheads or in their hands serving as fans strings of jewels on their necks and bosoms and in their girdles and apparel in such quantity that they looked like so many queens so that at the beginning with but little light such as that of the dawn or of the evening twilight the splendour of their diamonds and other jewels was so brilliant that they looked like so many stars The dress peculiar to these ladies is very handsome behind it hangs wellnigh from the neck down to the ground with long close sleeves and waist The farthingale also plays its part The plump and buxom display their bosoms very liberally and those who are lean go muffled up to the throat All wear men s shoes or at least very low slippers They consider the mask as indispensable for their face as bread at table but they lay it aside willingly at these public entertainments 144 The audience on that night included Lady Anne Clifford Lady Ruthin the Countess of Pembroke the Countess of Arundel Pocahontas and Tomocomo 145 Costume worn at court was expensive in December 1617 Anne Clifford gave Anne of Denmark a satin skirt with 100 worth of embroidery 146 In portraits Anne of Denmark and her contemporaries are seen to wear jewels suspended from the ear by shoelaces or black cords As a male fashion this use of laces was mocked by the poet Samuel Rowlands in 1609 147 Rowlands suggests that a lowly minded youth would crave the shoe string of a courtesan to wear as a favour for his ear 148 Decorative arts table fountains salts and clocks Edit In this portrait by Marcus Gheeraerts Anne of Denmark wears a double cross set with diamonds A double cross and a double cross of the Order of Jerusalem were listed in her inventory 149 The crowned s ferme or fermesse at the collar was a symbol used in correspondence as a mark of affection and was also the initial of Anne s mother Sophie of Mecklenburg The Welsh born goldsmith John Williams supplied a fountain of silver gilt well chased containing one basin with two tops one of them being three satyres or wild men the other a woman with a sail or flag The fountain had three taps or cocks decorated with mermaids It was used at Somerset House known in her time as Denmark House The wild men were heraldic supporters of the Danish royal arms 150 A table fountain formerly thought to have belonged to Anne s sister in law Anna Kathrine 1575 1612 wife of Christian IV but now known to date from 1648 survives at Rosenborg Castle It features the story of Actaeon and Diana and was designed to dispense distilled and perfumed waters 151 At Denmark House she had a green enamelled palm tree with a crown and a Latin epigram in gilt letters on the queen s fruitfulness as matriarch of the Stuart succession composed by her secretary the poet William Fowler and based on his anagram of her name Anna Brittanorum Regina In anna regnantium arbor 152 153 The anagram was printed in Henry Peacham s Minerva Brittana London 1612 attributed to Fowler with an image of an olive tree bearing the initials of her three children Henry Charles and Elizabeth 154 The verse on the tree was Perpetuo vernans arbor regnantium in Anna Fert fructum et frondes germine laeta vivo Anna s ever flourishing tree Bearing fruit and leaves her happy life continues 155 William Fowler s own translation was Freshe budding blooming trie from ANNA faire which springs Growe on blist birth with leaves and fruit from branche to branche in kings 156 Sir Robert Cecil had referred to Anne of Denmark s children as your royall branches in May 1603 157 The figurative image of Anne of Denmark as a fruitful vine an olive tree with four branches was used in a speech made in Parliament after the Gunpowder Plot by Thomas Egerton 1st Viscount Brackley as Lord Chancellor 158 The palm tree was admired and described by John Ernest I Duke of Saxe Weimar who visited London in 1613 159 The object seems to have been a salt combined with a clock described in 1620 with other items of the queen s tableware scheduled for sale as a salt of gold in pieces having a clock within crystal the foot of same being gold triangle wise the cover thereof being a castle and out of the same castle a green tree the flowers being diamonds and rubies in roses the same clock salt and crystal garnished with gold diamonds and rubies wanting a dial in the same clock 160 Another unusual clock at Denmark House was made in the form of a tortoise of silver gilt with 16 flat pearls and 11 smaller pearls forming the shell with emeralds on the head neck and tail and a clock mounted in its body 161 When Anne of Denmark was pregnant with her daughter Mary she moved in January 1605 for her confinement or lying in to special lodgings at Greenwich Palace A magnificent cupboard of gilt plate was provided for her Privy Chamber 162 She kept one piece for later use a jug of crystal garnished with silver gilt with a phoenix in the top in a crown the handle like a horse s head 163 Following the birth of Princess Mary King James gave her a diamond jewel and two dozen buttons worth 1550 provided by Arnold Lulls and Philip Jacobson 164 In February 1612 Christian IV sent her a mirror framed in gold sprinkled with diamonds pearls and jewels 165 The inventory of 1606 Edit Princess Elizabeth aged about 10 years old wearing a wire framed attire by Robert Peake the Elder Anne of Denmark s gold monster with a woman on his back may have been inspired by images like a print by Albrecht Durer James VI and I gave Anne of Denmark the ruby from the hat badge he called the Mirror of Great Britain The inventory is held by the National Library of Scotland and includes over 400 items including pieces inherited from Queen Elizabeth and gifts from King James and Christian IV It is not clear if any of the jewels had belonged to Mary Queen of Scots The inventory lists the jewels as they were kept in numbered chests with individual index letters Contemporary notes added to the inventory record that many pieces were broken up to provide gems to set in tableware Such pieces were often given to ambassadors as gifts 166 A necklace of knots of pearls some set with rubies was given to the queen s daughter Princess Mary After the child s death it was given to her nurse 167 A feather jewel with seven spriggs was deprecated because its stones were topazes set in imitation of diamonds and its pearls though fair and round were Scottish A note in the inventory shows that when it was dismantled for its gold the topazes were kept back to show the queen 168 Diamonds were taken from three bracelets when Anne wanted them for new aglet tags She changed her mind and the diamonds were kept for a time in a chest with other loose stones and pearls 169 An attire for the queen s hair was described in detail An Attire for the heade made of wire with hair colour silk having eleven spiggs upon every sprigg a great Pearl fastened with silver wire the middle pearl being the greatest the gold not going through it in weight 2oz 3dwt 21grs 170 A portrait medal struck in gold and silver thought to commemorate her English coronation represents her jewelled hairstyle in England 171 Some attires were supplied by tire makers shortly before leaving Scotland Anne appointed John Taylor as her tire maker 172 Her young companion Anne Livingstone recorded the purchase of an attire in similar fashion for herself in 1604 ane wyer to my haed with nyne pykis 9 peaks with a perewyk of hair to cover the wyr 173 Livingstone was a member of the household of Princess Elizabeth whose portraits show these wire framed attires 174 Anne of Denmark s inventory records gifts of jewels to Livingstone when she left the court and returned to Scotland to marry Sir Alexander Seton of Foulstruther who was made Earl of Eglinton 175 A portrait of Anne of Denmark by Paul van Somer in the National Portrait Gallery London shows a central jewel in the queen s hair possibly attached to the red ribbon covered wire of the attire or more likely pinned in the hair with a bodkin It comprises a large table cut diamond with a tuft of feathers with a pear pearl and a ruby drop beneath This may be the jewel called the Portugal diamond or the Mirror of France 176 The Mirror of Portugal was acquired by Queen Elizabeth from Antonio Prior of Crato and re used by Anne of Denmark with the Cobham pearl 177 King James wore the Portugal diamond on his hat on 27 May 1603 178 The ruby may be the one listed in Elizabeth s 1587 inventory to be worne on the forehead 179 Anne s 1606 inventory includes A faire and great table Diamond being the Diamond of Portingale set in a plaine thinne Collet of gold with a very small carnation silk Lace and pearl pendant The inventory notes that John Spilman added a gold bodkin shank or stalk 180 The Portugal diamond and the Cobham pearl were recorded later in the seventeenth century by drawings made by Thomas Cletcher a jeweller of The Hague Cletcher drew jewels belonging to Henrietta Maria during her exile His album is held by the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen 181 Jewels with an Annunciation scene and Diana with three nymphs and Actaeon probably elements from the lockets given to Anne at baptism of Prince Henry in 1594 were listed together in 1606 The Annunciation was given to Anne Livingstone Diana and Actaeon was scrapped by Nicasius Russell to make a basin and ewer in 1609 182 A jewel in the inventory dismantled for its diamonds and gold in 1610 depicted a woman on the back of a monster half a man and half a dragons taile It was suspended by three chains from a gold knop 183 The piece may have been inspired by images such as Albrecht Durer s enigmatic sea monster 184 A ruby from the Mirror of Great Britain EditKing James gave Anne of Denmark the ruby from the jewel known as the Mirror of Great Britain as a New Year s Day gift in January 1608 set in an aigrette with twenty eight small diamonds 185 The ruby may have been replaced by a diamond to make the Mirror of Great Britain into a symmetric jewel like the hat badge of King James later drawn by Thomas Cletcher 186 Contarini noted King James wearing a hat badge with five diamonds of extraordinary size at dinner in February 1610 perhaps the Mirror of Great Britain in this alternative configuration The Mirror s pendant diamond was the famous Sancy 187 Jewels drawings and Arthur Bodren EditA note in the inventory mentions that Anne of Denmark came to the Jewel House herself on 21 July 1610 to select jewels 188 A letter dated 23 August 1618 gives an insight into the commissioning of jewels and the re use of old pieces It was sent by an unknown courtier to Arthur Bodren a French servant and page of the bedchamber to Anne of Denmark who kept accounts He gave money to Inigo Jones for the queen s building works at Greenwich and Oatlands 189 George Heriot delivered little things for the queen to Arthur Bodrane of the bedchamber 190 The writer had received a message and a pattern a drawing made by Mr Halle for a new jewel He went to the royal Jewel House to find suitable jewels and rubies to use in the new piece An old diamond bracelet had the right size stones but Nicasius Russell had already taken any suitable rubies to set in gold plate for the table He found a border with larger diamonds to send to the queen for approval Halle told him that would please the queen who did mislike of the greater diamonds in his pattern in regard they were too little 191 A note written in the 1606 inventory next to an entry for a diamond girdle or border identifies it as the piece selected for Bodren to send to Anne of Denmark at Hampton Court in 1618 Arthur Bodren went on to serve Henrietta Maria He died in 1632 and left legacies to several members of her household including 20 shillings each to Jeffrey Hudson and Little Sara 192 Contemporary drawings of jewels by a London goldsmith Arnold Lulls survive in the Victoria and Albert Museum 193 Anne of Denmark pawned some of her most valuable diamonds in March 1615 for 3 000 The goldsmith John Spilman made record drawings of the cut of eleven stones and indicated the settings of two He noted them as eight table diamonds set in gold enamelled black one diamond resembling a glass window quarry and two lozenge diamonds cut in facets 194 Disposal of a royal collection EditIn her lifetime Anne give jewels to her friends and supporters Jewels and lockets that were gifts from Anne of Denmark are mentioned in wills and inventories In 1640 the Laird of Glenorchy at Balloch Castle had a round jewell of gold sett with precious stanes conteining twentie nyne diamonds and four great rubbies quhilk which Queene Anna of worthie memorie Queene of Great Britane France and Irland gave to umquhill the late Sir Duncane Campbell of Glenurquhy Item ane gold ring sett with ane great diamond schapine shaped lyke a heart and four uther small diamonds quhilk the said Queene Anna of worthie memorie gave to the said Sir Duncane 195 Anne of Denmark sent the round jewel to the Laird of Glenorchy in 1607 to wear in his hat 196 She did not leave a will bequeathing her jewels In the years before her death Prince Charles asked her to make her will leaving her jewels to him which did not please King James at all 197 198 The lawyer Edward Coke made a note at Denmark House on 19 January 1619 that she wished her rich stuff jewels and plate to be annexed to the crown added to the Crown Jewels 199 An inventory of her jewels and plate was made after her death by Sir Lionel Cranfield on 19 April 1619 200 Anne had played the virginals and the case of one instrument at Denmark House was made of green velvet embroidered with pearls 201 Soon after the inventory was made the queen s French page Piero Hugon and the Dutch maid Anna were taken to the Tower of London accused of stealing jewels 202 George Heriot produced models or drawings of missing jewels which he had supplied to the queen said to be worth 63 000 203 The goldsmith and financier Peter Vanlore advanced 18 000 on some of the remaining jewels to pay the costs of the king s summer progress 204 King James directed his officers to sell some minor items from Anne s collection and wardrobe in July 1619 including fabrics and gowns that had belonged to former queens Some jewels precious stones plate and ornaments had already been sold The next sales were to include loose and ragged pearls some parcels of silver plate together with broken and ends of silver linen which hath been much worn cabinets remnants of stuff of all sorts old robes and garments of former queens of this realm 205 Anne s collection also included some of the clothes of Henry VIII 206 King James asked Cranfield to bring a selection of jewels to him from the Tower of London in March 1623 including the queen s fine pendant diamonds and jewels fittest for the wearing of women 207 In 1623 these and others jewels were sent to Spain during the Spanish Match some with Francis Stewart including the Portugal diamond 208 An inventory was made in May 1625 of a chest of her remaining jewels including the circlet the crown used at her Scottish coronation in 1590 and a head attire with nine great round pearls 209 Jewels including the circlet were acquired and sold in 1630 by James Maxwell 1st Earl of Dirletoun 210 The crown of the Scottish queens possibly made for Mary of Guise by John Mosman in 1540 was in the Tower of London in 1649 described as a small crown found in an iron chest formerly in the Lord Cottington s charge 211 Charles I gave Princess Mary a crystal casting bottle set with rubies and diamonds with a chain featuring his mother s AR cipher at her marriage to the Prince of Orange on 30 April 1641 212 Jewel thieves Edit Servants of Anne of Denmark were accused and convicted of stealing her jewels on several occasions Jacob Kroger in 1594 Margaret Hartsyde in 1608 Piero Hugon and Dutch maid Anna in 1619 213 Dorothy Silken was alleged to have taken gilt plate 214 Dutch maid Anna was probably the favourite domestic servant Mistress Anna or Anna Kaas who was said to have received the queen s valuable linen at her death despite being so mean a gentlewoman 215 Danish Anna was with the queen at Hampton Court at her deathbed 216 A chest of the queen s jewels discovered at Denmark House in 1621 is mentioned in the royal jewel inventories and 37 diamonds from these secret jewels were used to decorate a miniature of King James sent to Elizabeth of Bohemia 217 This find is sometimes connected with the theft by Piero Hugon and Danish Anna 218 References Edit David Howarth Images of Rule Art and Politics in the English Renaissance 1485 1649 Macmillan 1997 pp 127 131 Miles Kerr Peterson amp Michael Pearce James VI s English Subsidy and Danish Dowry Accounts Scottish History Society Miscellany XVI Woodbridge 2020 p 36 Letter from King James to the Earl Marischal congratulating him and requesting he buy a jewel 1 August 1589 Folger Shakespeare Library X c 108 Thomas Thomson Collection of Inventories Edinburgh 1815 p 329 Clara Steeholm amp Hardy Steeholm James I of England The Wisest Fool in Christendom New York 1938 p 127 Miles Kerr Peterson amp Michael Pearce James VI s English Subsidy and Danish Dowry Accounts 1588 1596 Scottish History Society Miscellany XVI Woodbridge 2020 pp 38 57 8 George Duncan Gibb Life and Times of Robert Gib Lord of Carriber vol 1 London 1874 p 296 See also the payments listed British Library Add MS 33531 f 290r Daniel Wilson Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Time vol 1 Edinburgh 1891 pp 113 115 Maureen M Meikle Anna Of Denmark s Coronation And Entry Into Edinburgh Sixteenth Century Scotland Essays in Honour of Michael Lynch Brill 2008 p 290 Giovanna Guidicini Triumphal Entries and Festivals in Early Modern Scotland Brepols 2020 Thomas Thomson Collection of Inventories Edinburgh 1815 pp 310 12 David Masson Register of the Privy Seal of Scotland 1585 1592 vol 4 Edinburgh 1881 p 420 Marguerite Wood Extracts from the Burgh Records of Edinburgh 1589 1603 vol 6 Edinburgh 1927 pp 4 7 20 David Calderwood History of the Kirk vol 5 p 97 James Thomson Gibson Craig Marriage of King James the Sixth Edinburgh 1838 p 42 David Moysie Memoirs of the Affairs of Scotland Edinburgh 1830 p 84 Joseph Bain Calendar of Border Papers vol 1 Edinburgh 1894 pp 538 9 Mary Anne Everett Green Calendar State Papers Domestic Addenda 1580 1625 London 1872 pp 364 5 TNA SP15 33 30 32 Memoirs of George Heriot Edinburgh 1822 p 12 quoting Diarey of Robert Birrel Edinburgh 1798 p 48 Maureen Meikle A meddlesome princess Anna of Denmark and Scottish court politics 1589 1603 Julian Goodare amp Michael Lynch The Reign of James VI East Linton Tuckwell 2000 p 130 Annie I Cameron Calendar State Papers Scotland 1593 1595 vol 11 Edinburgh 1936 p 237 Miles Kerr Peterson amp Michael Pearce James VI s English Subsidy and Danish Dowry Accounts Scottish History Society Miscellany XVI Woodbridge 2020 p 76 Michael Pearce Anna of Denmark Fashioning a Danish Court in Scotland Court Historian 24 2 2019 p 150 Thomas Rymer Foedera vol 16 London 1715 pp 263 4 British Library Cotton Caligula D II f 176v Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 226 no 322 Jane Ashelford Dress in the Age of Elizabeth London 1988 pp 99 100 Miles Kerr Peterson amp Michael Pearce James VI s English Subsidy and Danish Dowry Accounts Scottish History Society Miscellany XVI Woodbridge 2020 pp 84 5 Letters to King James the Sixth from the Queen Prince Henry Prince Charles etc Edinburgh 1835 pp lxxv lxxviii Calendar State Papers Domestic Addenda 1580 1625 London 1872 p 368 See TNA SP15 33 46 Jemma Field Female dress Erin Griffey Early Modern Court Culture Routledge 2022 p 399 William Steven History of George Heriot s Hospital Edinburgh 1872 p 289 HMC 9th Report Lord Elphinstone part 2 London 1884 p 196 William Fraser Elphinstone Family Book vol 2 Edinburgh 1897 p 140 Inventory of Original Documents in the Archives of George Heriot s Hospital Edinburgh 1857 p 16 NRS GD421 1 3 7 National Records of Scotland catalogue NRS GD421 1 3 15 Diana Scarisbrick in Rosalind Marshall amp George Dalgleish The Art of Jewellery in Scotland Edinburgh 1991 p 27 William Steven History of George Heriot s Hospital Edinburgh 1872 p 7 Inventory of Original Documents in the Archives of George Heriot s Hospital Edinburgh 1857 p 18 no 19 NRS GD421 1 3 19 Ethel Carleton Williams Anne of Denmark London 1970 p 68 National Records of Scotland GD421 1 3 4 Maureen Meikle A meddlesome princess Anna of Denmark and Scottish court politics 1589 1603 Julian Goodare amp Michael Lynch The Reign of James VI East Linton Tuckwell 2000 p 137 James Orchard Halliwell Letters of the Kings of England vol 2 London 1846 pp 96 7 Heriot s Hospital papers NRS GD421 1 3 2 Analecta Scotica 2nd series Edinburgh 1837 p 382 3 See also NRS GD421 2 28 and GD421 2 29 a pledge of the feather and GD18 3107 request for loan of 2 000 merks David Masson Register of the Privy Council vol 6 Edinburgh 1884 pp 128 9 Bruce Lenman Jacobean Goldsmith Jewellers as Credit Creators The Cases of James Mossman James Cockie and George Heriot Scottish Historical Review 74 198 part October 1995 p 171 Archibald Constable Memoirs of George Heriot Edinburgh 1822 p 197 Accounts of Treasurer vol 11 Edinburgh 1915 pp xxxi xxxii 237 Archibald Constable Memoirs of George Heriot Edinburgh 1822 p 198 Daniel Packer Jewels of Blacknesse at the Jacobean Court Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes vol 75 2012 p 201 fn 1 Archibald Constable Memoirs of George Heriot Edinburgh 1822 pp 205 207 219 227 8 John Pitcher Samuel Daniel s Masque The Vision of the Twelve Goddesses Texts and Payments Medieval amp Renaissance Drama in England vol 26 2013 p 29 Jemma Field Anna of Denmark The Material and Visual Culture of the Stuart Courts Manchester 2020 p 141 Karen Hearn Dynasties London 1995 p 182 HMC Salisbury Hatfield vol 17 London 1938 p 54 Rosalind Marshall amp George Dalgleish The Art of Jewellery in Scotland Edinburgh 1991 pp 9 22 3 Margit Thofner On Magic Time and Exchange The Arts of Sophia of Mecklenburg Gustrow and Anna of Denmark Norway Art History 43 2 2020 pp 385 411 Archibald Constable Memoirs of George Heriot Edinburgh 1822 pp 216 7 See Mor e Moir Dictionary of the Older Scottish Tongue Nandini Das Joao Vicente Melo Haig Z Smith Lauren Working Blackamoor Moor Keywords of Identity Race and Human Mobility in Early Modern England Amsterdam 2021 pp 40 50 Michael Pearce Anna of Denmark Fashioning a Danish Court in Scotland The Court Historian 24 2 2019 pp 143 4 Daniel Packer Jewels of Blacknesse at the Jacobean Court Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes vol 75 2012 pp 201 222 Anthony Gerard Barthelemy Black Face Maligned Race The Representation of Blacks in English Drama from Shakespeare to Southerne Louisiana State UP 1987 pp 20 30 Anna Somers Cocks Princely Magnificence Court Jewels of the Renaissance London 1980 pp 62 3 132 launde was a word for a lawn or linen headdress OED Kim Hall Things of Darkness Economies of Race and Gender in Early Modern England Cornell UP 1996 pp 215 8 Tracey Sowerby Negotiating the Royal Image Portrait Exchanges in Elizabethan and Early Stuart Diplomacy Helen Hackett Early Modern Exchanges Dialogues Between Nations and Cultures Ashgate 2015 p 121 Calendar State Papers Domestic 1603 1610 p 143 Frederick Devon Issues of the Exchequer London 1836 pp 16 29 Frederick Devon Issues of the Exchequer London 1836 pp 104 5 Peter Cunningham Extracts from the Revels Accounts London 1842 p xi Inventory of Original Documents in the Archives of George Heriot s Hospital Edinburgh 1857 p 15 no 1 Jemma Field A Cipher of A and C set on the one Syde with diamonds Anna of Denmark s Jewellery and the Politics of Dynastic Display Erin Griffey Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe Amsterdam UP 2019 pp 139 160 Jemma Field Anna of Denmark The Material and Visual Culture of the Stuart Courts Manchester 2020 pp 141 3 Horatio Brown Calendar State Papers Venice 1610 1613 vol 12 London 1905 p 162 no 250 Anna Somers Cocks Princely Magnificence Court Jewels of the Renaissance London 1980 pp 128 9 David Howarth Images of Rule Art and Politics in the English Renaissance 1485 1649 Macmillan 1997 pp 127 131 Karen Hearn Dynasties Painting in Tudor and Jacobean England London 1995 p 192 John Hayward The Arnold Lulls Book of Jewels and the Court Jewellers of Anne of Denmark Archaeologia 108 1986 p 233 Jemma Field Anna of Denmark The Material and Visual Culture of the Stuart Courts Manchester 2020 p 165 Rosalind Marshall amp George Dalgleish The Art of Jewellery in Scotland Edinburgh 1991 pp 9 22 3 Rosalind Marshall amp George Dalgleish The Art of Jewellery in Scotland Edinburgh 1991 pp 22 3 Fitzwilliam Museum miniature portrait of Anne of Denmark 3855 Joan Evans A History of Jewellery London 1970 p 127 Elizabeth Goldring Nicholas Hilliard Yale 2019 p 262 pl 231 Jemma Field Anna of Denmark The Material and Visual Culture of the Stuart Courts Manchester 2020 p 142 pl 3 Allen B Hinds Calendar State Papers Venice 1619 1621 vol 16 London 1910 no 79 amp fn Jemma Field Anna of Denmark The Material and Visual Culture of the Stuart Courts Manchester 2020 p 143 Bracelet Rosenborg Castle Miles Kerr Peterson amp Michael Pearce James VI s English Subsidy and Danish Dowry Accounts Scottish History Society Miscellany XVI Woodbridge 2020 pp 76 84 5 Michael Pearce Anna of Denmark Fashioning a Danish Court in Scotland The Court Historian 24 2 2019 p 141 Register of the Privy Council of Scotland vol 6 Edinburgh 1884 pp 306 7 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 194 Walter Scott Collection of Scarce and Valuable Tracts vol 2 London 1809 p 394 Frederick Devon Issues of the Exchequer London 1836 pp 104 5 Frederick Devon Issues of the Exchequer London 1836 p 59 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 200 HMC Duke of Rutland vol 4 London 1905 pp 446 7 Carmen Garcia Frias Checa The Pictorial Representation of Margaret of Austria Queen of Spain Court Historian 27 3 December 2022 p 197 Frederick Charles Cass East Barnet Westminster 1885 p 99 Horatio Brown Calendar State Papers Venice 1603 1607 vol 10 London 1900 p 64 no 91 Henry Ellis Original Letters 1st Series vol 3 London 1824 pp 66 70 James Orchard Halliwell Letters of the Kings of England vol 2 London 1846 pp 101 103 4 Jemma Field Anna of Denmark The Material and Visual Culture of the Stuart Courts Manchester 2020 pp 123 5 Petition of Blanche Swansted TNA SP14 107 f 121 Clara Steeholm amp Hardy Steeholm James I of England The Wisest Fool in Christendom New York 1938 p 218 Janet Arnold Queen Elizabeth s Wardrobe Unlock d Maney 1988 pp 330 334 Calendar State Papers Domestic 1603 1610 London 1857 pp 10 35 TNA SP14 1 f 154 f 169 HMC Salisbury Hatfield vol 15 London 1930 p 388 HMC Salisbury Hatfield London 1930 p 380 Calendar State Papers Domestic 1603 1610 London 1857 p 66 See TNA SP 14 6 f 21 Calendar State Papers Domestic 1603 1610 London 1857 p 8 Janet Arnold Queen Elizabeth s Wardrobe Unlock d Maney 1988 pp 72 3 amp fig 120 329 no 36 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 201 no 80 HMC Salisbury Hatfield vol 15 London 1930 p 380 John Nichols Progresses of James the First vol 1 London 1828 p 170 Nadine Akkerman Correspondence of Elizabeth Stuart Queen of Bohemia vol 1 Oxford 2015 pp 149 50 153 155 6 John Nichols Progresses of James the First vol 1 London 1828 p 174 Mary Anne Everett Green Calendar State Papers Domestic 1603 1610 London 1857 p 66 Jemma Field Dressing a Queen The Wardrobe of Anna of Denmark at the Scottish Court Court Historian 24 2 August 2019 p 163 Maurice Lee Dudley Carleton to John Chamberlain 1603 1624 Rutgers UP 1972 pp 34 5 Pierre Paul Laffleur de Kermaingant L ambassade de France en Angleterre sous Henri IV Mission de Christophe de Harlay Comte de Beaumont Paris 1895 p 148 Edmund Howes Annales or a Generall Chronicle London 1631 p 826 Memoirs of Robert Carey Earl of Monmouth Edinburgh 1808 p 134 Jessica L Malay Anne Clifford s Autobiographical Writing 1590 1676 Manchester 2018 p 21 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 207 CSP Domestic 1603 1610 p 14 Francis Palgrave Ancient Kalendars of the Exchequer vol 2 London 1836 p 300 Archive reveals King s taste for bling University of Edinburgh HMC Laing Manuscripts at the University of Edinburgh vol 1 London 1914 p 95 Laing II 525 f1r John Wickham Legg Coronation Order of James I London 1902 pp 69 100 sine aliquo artificiali opere desuper intexto laxatos circa humeros decentes habes crinum circulum aureum gemmis ornatum gestans in capite Foedera vol 19 London 1732 p 149 Horatio Brown Calendar State Papers Venice 1603 1607 vol 10 London 1900 p 75 no 105 William Brenchley Rye Coronation of James I The Antiquary 22 London 1890 p 20 John Nichols Progresses of James the First vol 4 London 1828 p 1058 British Library Cotton MS Vespasian C XIV i f 136r cited by Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory p 207 John Nichols Progresses of James the First vol 2 London 1828 p 46 Thomas Rymer Foedera vol 16 London 1715 p 643 Maurice Lee Dudley Carleton to John Chamberlain 1603 1624 Rutgers UP 1972 pp 53 4 Martin Wiggins Drama and the Transfer of Power in Renaissance England Oxford 2012 p 55 Frederick Devon Issues of the Exchequer London 1836 p 19 See TNA SP 14 6 f 21 for a description of this mirror for a comparable clock amp mirror see A Collins Jewels and Plate of Queen Elizabeth p 268 9 no 7 Calendar State Papers Domestic 1603 1610 London 1857 p 80 Thomas Rymer Foedera vol 16 London 1715 pp 564 5 Maurice Lee Dudley Carleton to John Chamberlain 1603 1624 Rutgers UP 1972 pp 53 4 Martin Wiggins Drama and the Transfer of Power in Renaissance England Oxford 2012 p 55 Calendar State Papers Domestic 1603 1610 London 1857 p 70 See TNA SP 14 6 f 69 Janet Arnold Queen Elizabeth s Wardrobe Unlock d Maney 1988 pp 327 34 Francis Palgrave Ancient Kalendars of the Exchequer vol 2 London 1836 pp 306 9 HMC Salisbury Hatfield vol 16 London 1933 pp 385 6 Frederick Devon Issues of the Exchequer London 1836 pp 48 9 Frederick Devon Issues of the Exchequer During the Reign of James I London 1836 pp 305 6 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 230 no 352 Diana Scarisbrick Tudor and Jacobean Jewellery London 1995 p 54 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 pp 231 2 nos 360 362 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 235 Tracey Sowerby Negotiating the Royal Image Portrait Exchanges in Elizabethan and Early Stuart Diplomacy Helen Hackett Early Modern Exchanges Dialogues Between Nations and Cultures Ashgate 2015 p 121 Frederick Devon Issues of the Exchequer London 1836 pp 48 9 John Finet Finetti Philoxenis London 1656 p 40 Memoirs of the Duke of Sully vol 2 London 1890 p 421 HMC Salisbury Hatfield vol 16 London 1933 p 85 Gustav Ungerer Juan Pantoja de la Cruz and the Circulation of Gifts Shakespeare Studies vol 26 1998 pp 151 2 oscar Alfredo Ruiz Fernandez England and Spain in the Early Modern Era Royal Love Diplomacy Trade and Naval Relations London 2019 p 134 HMC Salisbury vol 17 London 1938 pp 266 7 Edmund Howes Annales or Generall Chronicle of England London 1615 p 883 James Balfour Annales of Scotland vol 2 Edinburgh 1824 p 14 John Nichols Progresses of James the First vol 2 London 1828 pp 47 8 E K Purnell amp A B Hinds HMC Downshire vol 2 London 1936 pp 423 5 Sara Jayne Steen Letters of Arbella Stuart Oxford 1994 p 182 Edmund Lodge Illustrations of British History vol 3 London 1791 p 227 M Payne Inventory of Denmark House 1619 Journal of the History of Collections 13 1 2001 p 39 Horatio Brown Calendar State Papers Venice 1610 1613 vol 12 London 1905 p 537 no 836 Horatio Brown Calendar State Papers Venice 1603 1607 vol 10 London 1900 p 119 no 166 John Nichols Progresses of James the First vol 4 London 1828 p 1064 Henry Ellis Original Letters 2nd series vol 3 London 1827 p 210 1 citing Relacion de la Jornada de Condestable de Castilla en Londres 1604 Antwerp 1604 Horatio Brown Calendar State Papers Venice 1617 1619 vol 11 London 1904 p 86 no 154 Jemma Field Anna of Denmark Manchester 2020 p 7 Diana Scarisbrick Tudor and Jacobean Jewellery London 1995 p 73 CSP Venice vol 12 p 498 Horatio Brown Calendar State Papers Venice 1610 1613 vol 12 London 1905 p 498 no 775 Edward Rimbault The Old Cheque book Or Book of Remembrance of the Chapel Royal London Camden Society 1872 p 165 Allen Hinds pp 80 1 Stephen Orgel Ben Jonson The Complete Masques Yale 1969 pp 67 9 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 237 no 406 Calendar State Papers Venice 1617 1619 vol 15 London 1909 pp 121 2 no 188 Karen Ordahl Kupperman Indians and English Facing Off in Early America Cornell University Press 2000 p 199 James P P Horn A Land as God Made It Jamestown and the Birth of America New York 2005 p 227 D J H Clifford The Diaries of Lady Anne Clifford Stroud 1990 p 64 Jessica L Malay Anne Clifford s Autobiographical Writing 1590 1676 Manchester 2018 p 69 Rosalind Marshall amp George Dalgleish The Art of Jewellery in Scotland Edinburgh 1991 p 28 Samuel Rowlands Complete Works Doctor Merrie man or Nothing but mirth 1609 vol 2 Glasgow 1880 p 22 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 pp 208 no 157 224 no 311 Arthur J Collins Jewels and Plate of Elizabeth I London 1955 pp 140 384 Carl Christian Torwald Anderson Chronological collection of the kings of Denmark Copenhagen 1878 pp 21 3 Henry Meikle Works of William Fowler vol 1 Edinburgh Scottish Text Society 1914 p 316 Alessandra Petrina Machiavelli in the British Isles Ashgate 2009 p 102 David Bergeron Royal Family Royal Lovers University of Missouri Press 1991 p 66 Minerva Brittana London 1612 p 13 William Brenchley Rye England as Seen by Foreigners London 1865 p 166 Henry Meikle Works of William Fowler vol 1 Edinburgh Scottish Text Society 1914 p 315 Calendar State Papers Domestic 1603 1610 p 12 no 113 SP 14 1 f 255 Harold Spencer Scott Journal of Roger Wilbraham Camden Miscellany 10 London 1902 p 72 Alastair Fowler Literary names Personal names Oxford 2012 p 84 William Brenchley Rye England as Seen by Foreigners London 1865 p 166 Thomas Rymer Foedera vol 7 part 3 Hague 1739 pp 130 132 M Payne Inventory of Denmark House 1619 Journal of the History of Collections 13 1 2001 p 36 Jemma Field Anna of Denmark The Material and Visual Culture of the Stuart Courts Manchester 2020 p 187 John Nichols Progresses of James the First vol 1 London 1828 p 607 Calendar State Papers Domestic 1603 1610 London 1857 p 217 Frederick Devon Issues of the Exchequer London 1836 p 49 Horatio Brown Calendar State Papers Venice 1610 1613 vol 12 London 1905 p 298 no 446 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 193 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery The Old and the New Apollo April 1986 pp 228 236 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 229 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 237 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory pp 231 nos 355 7 236 no 398 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory p 197 See external links Register of the Privy Seal National Archives of Scotland PS1 74 f17r William Fraser Memorials of the Montgomeries vol 2 Edinburgh 1859 pp 245 51 NRS GD3 6 2 no 4 Diana Scarisbrick Tudor and Jacobean Jewellery London 1995 p 73 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory pp 200 212 3 226 Jemma Field Anna of Denmark The Material and Visual Culture of the Stuart Courts Manchester 2020 p 140 Janet Arnold Princely Magnificence Court Jewels of the Renaissance London 1980 p 108 Diana Scarisbrick Tudor and Jacobean Jewellery London 1995 pp 67 72 Thomas Rymer Foedera vol 7 part 1 Hague 1739 p 75 Horatio Brown Calendar State Papers Venice 1603 1607 vol 10 London 1900 p 39 no 66 Janet Arnold Princely Magnificence Court Jewels of the Renaissance London 1980 p 108 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory p 223 John Hayward The Arnold Lulls Book of Jewels and the Court Jewellers of Anne of Denmark Archaeologia 108 1986 pp 234 6 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory p 223 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory p 223 no 367 Durer Sea monster RCT Calendar State Papers Domestic James I 1611 1618 p 30 citing SP14 63 f 116v John Hayward The Arnold Lulls Book of Jewels and the Court Jewellers of Anne of Denmark Archaeologia 108 1986 p 235 pl 87c Jack Ogden Diamonds An Early History of the King of Gems Yale 2018 p 190 Horatio Brown Calendar State Papers Venice 1607 1610 vol 11 London 1904 p 430 no 801 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 215 HMC Salisbury Hatfield vol 24 London 1976 p 67 George H Chettle Appendix 4 Extracts from the building accounts in Survey of London Monograph 14 the Queen s House Greenwich London 1937 pp 97 113 British History Online http www british history ac uk survey london bk14 pp97 113 accessed 29 April 2021 William Steven History of George Heriot s Hospital Edinburgh 1872 p 18 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 195 Diana Scarisbrick Anne of Denmark s Jewellery Inventory Archaeologia vol CIX 1991 p 228 TNA PROB 11 161 622 will of Arthur Bodrey John Hayward The Arnold Lulls Book of Jewels and the Court Jewellers of Anne of Denmark Archaeologia 108 1986 p 228 Calendar State Papers Domestic James I 1611 1618 p 61 TNA SP14 80 f 88 Cosmo Innes Black Book of Taymouth Papers from the Breadalbane Charter Room Edinburgh 1855 p 346 Compare Scarisbrick Inventory p 218 no 264 HMC 4th Report Breadalbane London 1874 p 513 Catalogue of the Harleian Manuscripts p 454 British Library Harley MS 6986 Thomas Birch amp Folkestone Williams Court and Times of James the First vol 2 London 1848 p 146 Calendar State Papers Domestic 1619 1623 p 6 TNA SP14 105 f 68 HMC 4th Report De La Warre London 1874 p 302 the present location of this copy is unclear see also Duchy of Cornwall Office Bound MSS Inrollments of Patents 1618 20 Andrew Ashbee Records of English Court Music 1603 1625 vol 4 1991 p 206 Matthew Payne Inventory of Denmark House 1619 Journal of the History of Collections 13 1 2001 p 25 Thomas Birch amp Folkestone Williams Court and Times of James the First vol 2 London 1848 p 167 Norman Egbert McClure Letters of John Chamberlain vol 2 Philadelphia 1939 p 251 Thomas Rymer Foedera vol 17 London 1717 pp 176 7 M Payne Inventory of Denmark House 1619 Journal of the History of Collections 13 1 2001 pp 25 32 33 35 41 HMC 4th Report De La Warre London 1874 p 286 Lesley Ellis Miller Dress to Impress Prince Charles plays Madrid Alexander Samson The Spanish Match Prince Charles s Journey to Madrid Ashgate 2006 pp 27 50 Thomas Rymer Foedera vol 17 London 1717 pp 508 12 Calendar of State Papers Domestic Charles I 1625 1626 p 137 citing SP 16 8 f 105 Foedera vol 8 part 3 Hague 1742 pp 88 94 Calendar State Papers Domestic Charles I 1629 1631 London 1860 pp 216 7 TNA SP16 163 f 31 Arthur Collins Jewels and Plate of Elizabeth I London 1955 pp 178 9 fn John Brand Inventory of plate in the Jewel House 1649 Archaeologia vol 15 London 1804 p 285 See Society of Antiquaries of London SAL MS 108 and Somerset Heritage Centre DD MI 19 113 printed Antiquarian Repertory vol 1 London 1807 p 79 James Arthur Bennet Account of Papers Relating to the Royal Jewel house Archaeologia 48 London 1884 p 212 Ethel Carleton Williams Anne of Denmark London 1970 p 203 A J Collins Jewels and Plate of Queen Elizabeth London 1955 pp 149 306 John S Brewer Court of King James the First by Godfrey Goodman vol 1 London 1839 p 169 Thomas Birch amp Folkestone Williams Court and Times of James the First vol 2 London 1848 p 144 Calendar State Papers Domestic 1619 1623 p 308 Raymond Walter Needham Somerset House Past and Present London 1877 p 80 External links Edit Anna of Denmark and The Eglinton Jewel National Galleries of Scotland Anna of Denmasrk and pearls National Galleries of Scotland Depicting Anna of Denmark Images of Anna of Denmark 1574 1603 Sara Ayres and Joseph Massey Depicting Anna of Denmark Images of Anna of Denmark The English and Irish Accession Sara Ayres and Joseph B R Massey Gold medal commemorating the English coronation of Queen Anne 1603 Royal Museums Greenwich Silver medal commemorating the English coronation of Queen Anne British Museum Portrait of Anna of Denmark 1595 circle of Adrian Vanson National Galleries of Scotland Portrait of Anna of Denmark circa 1605 with diamond and cabochon ruby pendant after John de Critz Sotheby s 23 September 2020 lot 97 Portrait of Anna of Denmark circa 1605 with diamond and cabochon ruby pendant after John de Critz Government Art Collection Portrait of Anna of Denmark circa 1605 with diamond and cabochon ruby pendant after John de Critz Colchester and Ipswich Museums Service Portrait of Anna of Denmark after John de Critz Blickling Hall National Trust Portrait of Anna of Denmark John de Critz National Portrait Gallery London Portrait of Anna of Denmark with a diamond aigrette and pear pearl tire circle of John de Critz St John s College Cambridge Portrait of Anna of Denmark dated 1614 attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the younger Royal Collection Holyrood Palace Portrait of Anna of Denmark Paul van Somer Royal Collection Portrait of Anna of Denmark after John de Critz National Galleries Scotland Miniature of Anna of Denmark Isaac Oliver National Portrait Gallery London Portrait of Anne of Denmark anonymous oil on panel National Galleries Scotland Elizabeth Cary 1st Viscountess Falkland Paul Van Somer MFAH Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Jewels of Anne of Denmark amp oldid 1129085240, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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