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Katmai National Park and Preserve

Katmai National Park and Preserve is an American national park and preserve in southwest Alaska, notable for the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and for its brown bears. The park and preserve encompass 4,093,077 acres (6,395.43 sq mi; 16,564.09 km2), which is between the sizes of Connecticut and New Jersey. Most of the national park is a designated wilderness area. The park is named after Mount Katmai, its centerpiece stratovolcano. The park is located on the Alaska Peninsula, across from Kodiak Island, with headquarters in nearby King Salmon, about 290 miles (470 km) southwest of Anchorage. The area was first designated a national monument in 1918 to protect the area around the major 1912 volcanic eruption of Novarupta, which formed the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, a 40-square-mile (100 km2), 100-to-700-foot-deep (30 to 213 m) pyroclastic flow. The park includes as many as 18 individual volcanoes, seven of which have been active since 1900.

Katmai National Park and Preserve
The summit crater lake of Mount Katmai
Location in Alaska
Location in North America
LocationLake and Peninsula, Kodiak Island, Kenai Peninsula, and Bristol Bay boroughs, Alaska, United States
Nearest cityKing Salmon
Coordinates58°30′N 155°00′W / 58.5°N 155°W / 58.5; -155Coordinates: 58°30′N 155°00′W / 58.5°N 155°W / 58.5; -155
Area4,093,077 acres (16,564.09 km2)[2]
EstablishedDecember 2, 1980
Visitors37,818 (in 2015 – latest count)[3]
Governing bodyNational Park Service
WebsiteKatmai National Park & Preserve
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Map of Katmai National Park and Preserve
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Map of Katmai National Park and surrounding area

Initially designated because of its volcanic history, the monument was left undeveloped and largely unvisited until the 1950s. The monument and surrounding lands became appreciated for their wide variety of wildlife, including an abundance of sockeye salmon and the brown bears that feed upon them. After a series of boundary expansions, the present national park and preserve were established in 1980 under the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act.

Geography

 
3D image of the park created via Landsat data overlaid on a digital elevation model

Katmai occupies the Pacific Ocean side of the Alaska Peninsula, opposite Kodiak Island on the Shelikof Strait. The park's chief features are its coast, the Aleutian Range with a chain of fifteen volcanic mountains across the coastal southeastern part of the park, and a series of large lakes in the flatter western part of the park. The closest significant town to the park is King Salmon, where the park's headquarters is located, about 5 miles (8.0 km) down the Naknek River from the park entrance. The Alaska Peninsula Highway connects Naknek Lake near the entrance to King Salmon, continuing to the mouth of the river at Naknek. The road is not connected to the Alaska road system. Access to the park's interior is by boat on Naknek Lake. Another road runs from Brooks Camp to Three Forks, which overlooks the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. The 497-mile (800 km) long coastline is deeply indented, running from the entrance to the Cook Inlet at Kamishak Bay south to Cape Kubugakli. The mountains run from southwest to northeast, about 15 miles (24 km) inland.[4][5]

The park includes McNeil River State Game Sanctuary and Refuge on Kamishak Bay. The Alagnak River, designated a wild river, originates within the preserve at Kukaklek Lake. The Naknek River, which empties into Bristol Bay, originates within the park. The park adjoins Becharof National Wildlife Refuge to the south.[4] Of the park and preserve's acres, 3,922,529 acres (1,587,391 ha) are in the national park where all sport and subsistence hunting is prohibited. 418,548 acres (169,380 ha) are preserve lands, where both sport and subsistence hunting are permitted. The most commonly hunted species in the preserve includes the brown bear, which has led to some problems about bear hunting due to small preserve population sizes and stalking bears to close limits.[6][7]

The foundation rocks on the Alaska Peninsula are divided by the Bruin Bay Fault into fossiliferous sedimentary rocks of Jurassic and Cretaceous age to the east and metamorphic and igneous rocks to the west. The granite Aleutian Range batholith has intruded through these rocks. The majority of the higher mountains in the park are of volcanic origin. The park has been extensively altered by glaciation, both in the high lands where the mountains have been sculpted by glaciers, and in the lowlands where lakes have been excavated. Outwash plains and terminal moraines are also featured in the park. Soil types vary from rock or volcanic ash of vary depth to deep, wet soils overlain with peat. Although permafrost exists at higher elevations, it is not present in the lowlands.[8]

Two physiographic provinces cover the park. The Aleutian Range province is composed of the Shelikof Strait coastline, about 10 miles (16 km) deep along the coast, the Aleutian Mountain zone, and the lake, or Hudsonian zone. Farther west the Nushagak-Bristol Bay Lowlands province is separated from the Aleutian zone by the Bruin Bay Fault, occupying a small corner of the park.[9]

Volcanoes

 
Fourpeaked Mountain and Mount Douglas

The active volcanoes in the park are Mount Katmai, Novarupta, Trident Volcano, Mount Mageik, Mount Martin and Fourpeaked Mountain. Other volcanoes that have erupted in recent times in geological terms, but not in historical times, are Mount Douglas, Mount Griggs, Snowy Mountain, Mount Denison, Mount Kukak, Devils Desk, Mount Kaguyak, Mount Cerberus, Falling Mountain and Kejulik Volcano.[10] Martin and Mageik produce steam that can be seen from King Salmon, while Trident was active in 1957–1965 and 1968.[8]

 
Novarupta lava dome

The most significant volcanic event in historical times was the simultaneous eruption of Mount Katmai and Novarupta in June 1912. Novarupta's eruption produced a pyroclastic flow that covered a nearby valley with ash as much as 300 feet (91 m) thick. At the same time the summit of Katmai collapsed into a caldera. As the valley deposits cooled, they emitted steam from fissures and fumaroles, earning the name "Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes". As heat has dissipated from the deposits the steam vents have subsided and the valley has been eroded. At present streams have cut canyons as much as 100 feet (30 m) deep, but only 5 to 10 feet (1.5 to 3.0 m) wide.[8] Katmai is a stratovolcano, 6,716 feet (2,047 m) in height, with a large summit caldera. Several glaciers originate from the mountain, and one in the caldera is one of the few to have formed in historical times.[8] The caldera floor is about 250 metres (820 ft) below the rim. The mountain stands on Jurassic sedimentary rocks, and its volcanic components are less than 1,500 feet (460 m) thick.[11] Apart from the 1912 eruption, no significant activity has occurred in historical times.[12] Novarupta is described as a Plinian pyroclastic vent with a plug dome, a 2,000-metre (6,600 ft) diameter crater with a 65-metre (213 ft), 400-metre (1,300 ft) diameter dome in the middle.[13] Its only historical activity was the 1912 eruption.[14]

 
Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes

Trident is a complex of three stratovolcanoes, the highest of which is 3,599 feet (1,097 m) tall, standing up to 1,894 feet (577 m) above their base.[15] Trident has been intermittently active in historical times, primarily between 1953 and 1974. During that time about 0.7 cubic kilometers of material was erupted to form a new peak called Southwest Trident from the former site of a large fumarolic pit.[16] Mount Martin is 6,102 feet (1,860 m) high, standing on a 1,400-metre (4,600 ft) high ridge near Mount Mageik, partly overlapping the much older Alagogshak volcano.[17] The summit has a 300-metre (980 ft) diameter crater, containing fumaroles and sometimes a crater lake. A large lava flow extends from the mountain to fill the upper part of Angle Creek's valley with about five cubic kilometers of material.[18] There have been no significant eruptions from Martin, but the summit emits steam and the volcano is the site of earthquake swarms.[19] Mageik stands on the same sedimentary rocks as Martin. The composite structure has four vents, the highest at 7,103 feet (2,165 m) and three subsidiary vent cones. A small crater hold a lake and fumaroles on the highest cone's flank.[20] Apart from steaming there has been no recent activity, but there was a large debris avalanche in 1912, probably associated with the eruption of Katmai, amounting to between 0.05 and 0.10 cubic kilometer in volume.[21] Fourpeaked Mountain is a stratovolcano with a probable vent at the summit. Much of the 6,903-foot (2,104 m) mountain is covered by Fourpeaked Glacier.[22] Fourpeaked produced phreatic eruptions in September 2006.[23]

 
Trident volcano

Mount Griggs is a 7,602-foot (2,317 m) stratovolcano near Novarupta, and somewhat to the northwest of the otherwise straight line of volcanoes in Katmai. The flat-topped mountain has three concentric craters, the largest 1,500 metres (4,900 ft) wide. The mountain's geochemistry differs from its neighbors. Griggs has active sulfurous fumaroles.[24] Snowy Mountain is a small volcano 7,090 feet (2,160 m) tall, with ten significant glaciers covering almost all of the mountain. Roughly a third to half of the mountain has been eroded by glacial action. The volcano has two vents about 4 kilometres (2.5 mi) apart, and active fumaroles at the tallest summit.[25] Mount Denison is a 7,605-foot (2,318 m) peak with four related vents at the head of three glaciers,[26] the tallest point in the park.[9] Mount Kukak is another ice-covered volcano, 6,693 feet (2,040 m) tall. It has a strong fumarole field near the summit.[27] Devils Desk is a heavily eroded stratovolcano, 6,411 feet (1,954 m) high.[28] Kaguyak is a stratovolcano truncated by a caldera, like Katmai. The highest peak is 2,956 feet (901 m), with a 2.5-kilometre (1.6 mi) diameter crater lake. There are two large domes within the caldera and two on the flanks.[29] Mount Douglas is a 7,021-foot (2,140 m) stratovolcano, extensively eroded by ice, with a small acidic crater lake at its summit.[30] 7,454-foot (2,272 m) Mount Steller is located between Kukak and Denison, with an unknown number of vents in ice-covered terrain.[31] Kejulik is a 4,977-foot (1,517 m) eroded volcanic remnant.[32] None of these volcanoes have exhibited significant behavior in historic times.

Activities

 
A brown bear in Hallo Bay, Katmai National Park, Alaska

Activities at Katmai include hiking, backpacking, camping, backcountry skiing, fishing, kayaking, boat tours, and interpretive programs.

Katmai is also well known for Alaskan brown bears and the sockeye salmon that attract both bears and people. Katmai contains the world's largest protected brown bear population, estimated to number about 2,200.[33] Bears are especially likely to congregate at the Brooks Falls viewing platform when the salmon are spawning, and many well known photographs of Alaskan brown bears have been taken there. The salmon arrive early at Brooks Falls compared to other streams, and between 43 and 70 individual bears have been documented at the falls in July and an equal number of bears are seen in the lower river in September.[34] The coastal areas such as Hallo Bay, Kukak Bay, Kuliak Bay, Kaflia Bay, Geographic Harbor and Chiniak Bay also host very high population densities of bears year-round, due to the availability of clams and edible coastal sedge as well as salmon and other fish. Other hotspots include Swikshak Lagoon, American Creek, and in the preserve, Moraine Creek and Funnel Creek.[35]

 
Grizzly bear fishing for salmon at Brooks Falls, Alaska

The vast majority of Katmai visitors come to Brooks Camp, one of the only developed areas of the park, and few venture further than the bear viewing platforms and the adjacent Brooks Camp area. Rangers at the park are extremely careful not to allow bears to obtain human food or get into confrontations with humans. As a result, bears in Katmai Park are uniquely unafraid of and uninterested in humans,[34] and will allow people to approach (and photograph) much more closely than bears elsewhere. The bears of Brooks Camp can be seen on computers and smartphones via webcams pioneered by the National Park Service.[36][37] July and September are by far the best months for viewing brown bears in the Brooks Camp area.

Lodging is available in the park at Brooks Camp and Grosvenor Lodge and at several other lodges scattered around the park on inholdings.[38]

Climate

According to the Köppen climate classification system, Katmai National Park and Preserve has a subarctic climate (Dfc) with cool summers and year around precipitation. Dfc climates are defined by their coldest month averaging below 32 °F (0 °C), 1–3 months averaging above 50 °F (10 °C), all months with average temperatures below 71.6 °F (22.0 °C) and no significant precipitation difference between seasons. According to the United States Department of Agriculture, the Plant Hardiness zone at Brooks Falls at 92 feet (28 m) elevation is 3b with an average annual extreme minimum temperature of −30.9 °F (−34.9 °C).[39]

Ecosystems

 
Bear catches salmon at Brooks Falls

Weather at Katmai is variable, though reliably rainy or drizzly. Summer high temperatures average about 63 °F (17 °C) and winter lows are between −4 and 40 °F (−20 and 4 °C). Fall is somewhat drier than the rest of the year, and warm days can occur year-round. Rainfall is heaviest near the coast, with up to 60 inches (150 cm), and lighter to the west.[40] The park supports 29 mammal species, 137 bird species, 24 freshwater fish species and four anadromous fish species.[9]

Mammal species that inhabit Katmai include snowshoe hare, moose, timber wolf, brown bear, coyote, beaver, lynx, wolverine, river otter, mink, Arctic and red fox species, weasel, porcupine, and marten. Marine mammals include the harbor seal, sea lion, sea otter, beluga whale, killer whale and gray whale. Caribou are occasionally within the park during winter seasons.[41]

The most important fish in the park are sockeye salmon, which feed bears, bald eagles and others during their spawning runs in the park's rivers. Salmon enter the Naknek River drainage from Bristol Bay in June and July and spawn from August to October.[42]

The park also supports a variety of plant communities. Common wildflowers that grow in the park include beachhead iris, nootka lupine, and woolly geranium.[43]

History

Precontact period and archaeology

Prehistoric artifacts have been found dating to about 6,000 years before the present near the old Katmai village on the park's south coast. A number of other sites have been found along the coast, notably those of Kaguyak and Kukak, with occupation into historic times. Some of these, including sites "49 AF 3" near Kanatak and "49 MK 10", present clear evidence of habitation up to the 1912 eruption, but have not been investigated in detail.[44][45] The Amalik Bay Archeological District is a major area containing evidence of some of the earliest human activity in the area, with finds dating back more than 7,000 years.

Inland, Brooks Camp is a significant archaeological site dating to about 4500 BP, listed on the National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) in 1977 and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1993. A village abandoned after the 1912 eruption at the mouth of the Savonoski River is documented as the "Old Savonoski Site", while a more extensive district of sites is located near the mouth of the Grosvenor River. The "DIL-161 Site" is located in the watershed of the Alagnak River, and shows evidence of habitation in the first millennium.

Russians and Americans

Russians were the first Europeans to arrive in the area in significant numbers, trading in furs. They encountered the Aglegmuit Eskimos on the Bristol Bay side of the peninsula and the Koniag Eskino on the Shelikov Strait side. Katmai Village was the only location within the park where Europeans lived through the mid-19th century, though their numbers were always few. In the latter part of the 19th century a few villages were established inland at Severnosky and along the coast at Douglas and Kukak. American traders operating for the Alaska Commercial Company took the place of the Russians. As sea otters became scarce the trade dried up, and Katmai and Douglas were abandoned in the early 20th century. In the 1890s the region was a route for travelers going to Nome for Nome's short-lived gold rush. Writer Rex Beach was one of these, writing about life on Bristol Bay during the salmon run in The Silver Horde. Prospects for oil, gold and coal received brief attention, then died out by 1912.[9]

 
Pyroclastic flow deposits in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes

By 1898 there were reports of frequent earthquakes in the vicinity of Katmai Pass. These intensified around June 1, 1912, inducing the few local residents to leave. Katmai and Novarupta erupted on June 6 with a noise heard in Fairbanks, 500 miles (800 km) away, and Juneau, 750 miles (1,210 km) distant. Heavy eruptions continued through June 7, then gradually declined from June 8 onwards. Ash fell 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) deep in Kodiak, and ash fell on the Alaskan mainland and eastwards as far as Puget Sound. Atmospheric haze was noted worldwide, and temperatures were depressed in the northern hemisphere during the second half of 1912. Initial reports pinpointed Mount Katmai as the center of eruption. Later reports cast doubt on Katmai's primary role, and it was not until 1954 that Novarupta was found to be the primary volcanic center. The region around the mountains, which had received heavy ashfall, was devastated.[46]

 
Satellite image of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and surrounding area

The National Geographic Society backed five expeditions to Katmai, beginning in 1915 with a trip to Kodiak Island and a short stay on the mainland. The expedition, led by Robert Fiske Griggs, a botanist who was initially interested in the study of plant recolonization. Griggs' follow-up expedition in 1916 discovered and named the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and found Novarupta. The National Geographic Society, delighted with the discoveries, funded a larger expedition in 1917 to make a survey of the region. The subsequent articles published in National Geographic magazine brought the region to prominence in the public, and Griggs began to advocate for the protection of the area in the national park system, backed by the National Geographic Society. At this time legislation to establish Mount McKinley National Park (later renamed Denali National Park) was pending, and the idea of making Katmai a national park was discussed by National Park Service acting director Horace M. Albright and National Geographic Society president Gilbert Hovey Grosvenor. Albright advised that national park legislation was unlikely to pass, suggesting instead that the region be protected as a national monument by the President, using the Antiquities Act of 1906. After some negotiation, and after a 1918 expedition opined that the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes was a permanent feature, a proclamation was prepared to protect 1,080,000 acres (440,000 ha) around Mount Katmai, the valley, and the most of Iliuk Arm of Naknek Lake. Although only a third the area of the present park and preserve, the monument was nevertheless half the size of Yellowstone National Park from the outset. President Woodrow Wilson signed the proclamation of Katmai National Monument on September 24, 1918.[46]

National monument

The proclamation had little immediate effect, other than grumbling from territorial officials. A 1923 expedition found that the region had little exploitable mineral potential. Tourists in the early 1920s amounted to a few dozen. No National Park Service staff were assigned to the site, which was in theory administered by Mount McKinley. By 1928 more visitors arrived. The most prominent among them was Father Bernard R. Hubbard, an explorer of Alaska who gained fame as "The Glacier Priest". Hubbard documented the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes in movies that he showed at lectures until the 1950s. At the same time, the Park Service became aware that Katmai was among the best habitat for grizzlies in Alaska, and that the monument should be expanded to protect them and the prolific salmon spawning grounds. In 1931 President Herbert Hoover issued a proclamation expanding the monument under the Antiquities Act to 2,697,590 acres (1,091,680 ha), more than doubling it in size and creating the largest single Park Service unit. Crucially, the expanded monument included the falls at Brooks Camp, while avoiding lands along the coast thought to have potential oil deposits.[47]

In 1937 a ranger was finally assigned to Katmai, seconded to the monument from Mount McKinley, spending most of June trying to get there and one day in the monument before returning to Mount McKinley. In 1939 the United States Bureau of Fisheries established an encampment at the Brooks Lake outlet, having previously blasted out part of the falls in 1921. At about the same time the Park Service became concerned about illegal trapping in the monument, asking the Alaska Fish and Game Commission to send wardens to patrol the area. Several trappers were apprehended, and Park Service personnel visited the monument, sending back positive reports on the scenery and wildlife. These reports, and efforts to make poaching more difficult, led to another boundary adjustment that included the islands in the Shelikof Strait and Cook Inlet within 5 miles (8.0 km) of the old boundary, signed by President Franklin D. Roosevelt on August 4, 1941, which increased the monument's area by several thousand acres.[47]

 
Mountains of the Aleutian Range from a floatplane flying to Brooks Camp

Poaching increased after World War II. At the same time, Alaskan territorial interests sought to have the monument disestablished or reduced in size to allow mining and fishing, because the activity at the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes had declined, and because the Park Service had made no effort to develop the monument for visitors. These proposals were turned aside, and in 1950 a seasonal ranger was assigned to Katmai.[47] William Nancarrow built a small camp at Brooks River. By the mid-1950s the Park Service embarked on its Mission 66 program to expand visitor services. Katmai was to receive a headquarters at King Salmon, a visitor center at Valley Junction in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, ranger stations, campgrounds, modest roads and dock facilities on the lakes. An airstrip was also proposed for Brooks Camp. The airstrip was not built, but a road from Brooks Camp to the valley was built. In the early 1960s a road was proposed that would run across the peninsula through the park, connecting to King Salmon. The Park Service was opposed. The 1964 Alaska earthquake stalled the proposal for several years, resurfacing in 1968 with local support. However, the Park Service opposed the plans and the road project was set aside. In the meantime headquarters facilities were developed at King Salmon. In 1967 the state of Alaska set aside the McNeil River State Game Sanctuary with 85,000 acres (34,000 ha) under protection to safeguard the bear fishing grounds on the river, adjacent to Katmai. McNeil River was declared a National Natural Landmark in 1968.[48][49] In the 1990s a state game refuge, with 120,000 acres (49,000 ha) was established to the north of the sanctuary to protect Chenik Lake, which supported a smaller fish run, attracting bears. The refuge and the expanded 128,000 acres (52,000 ha) sanctuary have remained closed to hunting, despite an unsuccessful 2005 attempt by Governor Frank Murkowski and again in 2007 by Sarah Palin's Board of Game. Recently there have been proposals to merge the sanctuary and refuge into Katmai.[50]

When George B. Hartzog Jr. became director of the National Park Service in 1964 he commissioned a report on Alaskan public lands, entitled Operation Great Land. The study identified 39 site that might become preserves or recreation lands, and it recommended that Katmai be expanded somewhat to the west and substantially to the north. The boundary adjustments were amended to a westward expansion of 94,547 acres (38,262 ha) that President Lyndon B. Johnson signed in 1968, producing anger in Alaska. In 1971 Katmai finally gained a full-time, on-site park superintendent. Also in 1971, Congress passed the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act (ANCSA), which established a framework to divide up Alaska's federal lands. ANCSA established a timetable for claims, withdrawals and designations, requiring the Park Service to come up with a plan for future park units. The Park Service proposed 33,000,000 acres (13,000,000 ha) of new park lands, among them a 1,218,490-acre (493,110 ha) expansion of Katmai. Through the mid-1970s a variety of proposals were circulated for expansion and wilderness designation. At the same time, concerns were raised about the withdrawal of game lands from sport hunting, and the ability of local residents to continue to practice subsistence hunting. To address these concerns, legislation was proposed to create national preserve lands that would confer protection while allowing regulated sport hunting. Early versions of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) proposed Katmai National Park and Preserve as a combination of park and preserve lands. This legislation was stalled in Congress by 1978. Because a deadline was approaching for state selection of public lands, President Jimmy Carter used his authority under the Antiquities Act to expand Katmai by 1,370,000 acres (550,000 ha) on December 1, 1978, mainly on the northern side of the monument.[48]

National park and preserve

 
Katmai National Park Geologic map, where nig is the Episode I valley-filling ignimbrite of June 6–7, 1912, and nrd is the Novarupta rhyolite dome

It took two more years for Congress to act on a final ANILCA bill. On December 2, 1980, the final bill established Katmai National Park and Preserve with 1,037,000 acres (420,000 ha) of additional park, bringing it to 3,674,529.33 acres (1,487,029.26 ha) and 308,000 acres (125,000 ha) of preserve, with 3,384,358 acres (1,369,601 ha) of wilderness lands.[51][48] Unlike most ANILCA parks, the legislation for Katmai did not grant subsistence hunting access to national park lands, only to the preserve.[52] Sport and subsistence hunting is prohibited in Katmai National Park but allowed in the preserve.

Environmental Issues

Exxon Valdez oil spill

The grounding of the oil tanker Exxon Valdez in Prince William Sound on March 24, 1989, produced extensive contamination of the Katmai coastline. By early April, oil had reached Kenai Fjords National Park. Oil reached Cape Douglas in Katmai on April 26 and points southwards in the following week. In early May, a variety of dredges and skimmer vessels were working in the Shelikof Strait, but 90% of the Katmai coastline was oiled. The worst-hit areas were Cape Chiniak and Chiniak Lagoon, Hallo Bay Beach and its lagoon, Cape Gull and Kaflia Bay, and Cape Douglas. Casualties in birds alone were estimated at 8,400 dead birds. Work resumed in 1990, with smaller efforts in 1991 to catch the last oil.[52]

Administrative

The superintendent of Katmai is also responsible for Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve and Alagnak Wild River.[53]

List of superintendents

  • Gilbert E. Blinn 3/1971 – 6/1979
  • Roy M. Sanborn (acting) 6/1979 – 9/1979
  • David K. Morris 9/1979 – 4/1987
  • James R. Pepper (acting) 7/1987 – 8/1987
  • Gilbert R. (Ray) Bane 8/1987 - 3/1990
  • James F. Ryan (acting) 3/1990 – 6/1990
  • Alan D. Eliason 6/1990 – 7/1993
  • Will Tipton (acting) 8/1993-12/1993
  • William Pierce 12/1993 – 1998 (moved to Anchorage in 1996)
  • Deborah O. Liggett 10/1998 - 7/2003
  • Joe Fowler (acting) 8/2003 – 11/2003
  • Joe Fowler 11/2003 – 4/2005
  • Steve Frye 6/2005- 3/2006
  • Troy Hamon (acting) 4/2006 – 7/2006
  • Ralph Moore 7/2006 – 10/2012
  • Diane Chung 2013 – 2016
  • Karen Bradford 2016 – 2017
  • Mark Sturm 2017 – Present

See also

References

  1. ^ "Protected Area Profile for Katmai from the World Database of Protected Areas". protectedplanet.net. UN World Conservation Monitoring Centre and the IUCN. Retrieved September 7, 2021.
  2. ^ "Listing of acreage – December 31, 2011" (XLSX). Land Resource Division, National Park Service. Retrieved March 7, 2012. (National Park Service Acreage Reports)
  3. ^ "NPS Annual Recreation Visits Report". National Park Service. Retrieved March 7, 2019.
  4. ^ a b "Map of Katmai National Park and Preserve" (PDF). National Park Service. Retrieved March 3, 2013.
  5. ^ "Coasts/Shorelines". Katmai National Park and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved March 3, 2013.
  6. ^ "Katmai Preserve Bear Hunt". National Parks Traveler.
  7. ^ "Katmai Hunting". National Park Service.
  8. ^ a b c d "Geologic Activities". Katmai National Park and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  9. ^ a b c d Norris, Ch. 1
  10. ^ "Volcanoes & Lava Flows". Katmai National Park and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved March 3, 2013.
  11. ^ "Mount Katmai description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  12. ^ "Katmai reported activity". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  13. ^ "Novarupta description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  14. ^ "Novarupta reported activity". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  15. ^ "Trident Volcano description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  16. ^ "Trident reported activity". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  17. ^ "Alagogshak". Alaska Volcano Observatory. U.S. Geological Survey. Retrieved February 15, 2019.
  18. ^ "Mount Martin description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  19. ^ "Mount Martin reported activity". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  20. ^ "Mount Mageik description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  21. ^ "Mageik reported activity". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  22. ^ "Fourpeaked Mountain description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  23. ^ "Fourpeaked reported activity". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  24. ^ "Mount Griggs description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  25. ^ "Snowy Mountain description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  26. ^ "Mount Denison description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory.
  27. ^ "Kukak Volcano description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  28. ^ "Devils Desk description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  29. ^ "Kaguyak Crater description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  30. ^ "Mount Douglas description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  31. ^ "Mount Steller description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  32. ^ "Kejulik description and information". Alaska Volcano Observatory. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  33. ^ "Plan Your Visit - Katmai National Park & Preserve". National Park Service. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  34. ^ a b "Brown Bears of Katmai". Katmai National Park and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  35. ^ "Bear Watching in Katmai National Park and Preserve". National Park Service. Retrieved March 4, 2013.
  36. ^ "Brooks Falls Bearcam". October 10, 2022.
  37. ^ "Live Webstream Captures Fishing Bears | American Forests". American Forests. Retrieved July 26, 2012.
  38. ^ "Lodging". Katmai National Park and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved March 3, 2013.
  39. ^ . United States Department of Agriculture. Archived from the original on July 4, 2019. Retrieved July 12, 2019.
  40. ^ "Weather". Katmai National Park and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  41. ^ "Animals". Katmai National Park and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  42. ^ "Fish". Katmai National Park and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved March 5, 2013.
  43. ^ "Wildflowers - Katmai National Park & Preserve (U.S. National Park Service)". www.nps.gov. Retrieved January 11, 2022.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  44. ^ Bohannon, Charles (1975). National Register nomination for Archeological Site 49-MK-10 (redacted); available by request from the National Park Service.
  45. ^ Bohannon, Charles (1975). National Register nomination for Archeological Site 49-AF-3 (redacted); available by request from the National Park Service.
  46. ^ a b Norris, Ch. 2
  47. ^ a b c Norris, Ch. 3
  48. ^ a b c Norris, Ch. 4
  49. ^ The Grizzly Almanac, pg. 166.
  50. ^ "Friends of McNeil River, Home". Friends of McNeil River. Retrieved January 31, 2015.
  51. ^ "Wilderness Connect". wilderness.net. Retrieved August 31, 2019.
  52. ^ a b Norris, Ch. 5
  53. ^ "Superintendent Named for Katmai National Park". Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved March 3, 2013.

Bibliography

  • Norris, Frank B. (1996) Isolated Paradise: An Administrative History of the Katmai and Aniakchak NPS Units, Alaska, National Park Service

External links

katmai, national, park, preserve, american, national, park, preserve, southwest, alaska, notable, valley, thousand, smokes, brown, bears, park, preserve, encompass, acres, which, between, sizes, connecticut, jersey, most, national, park, designated, wilderness. Katmai National Park and Preserve is an American national park and preserve in southwest Alaska notable for the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and for its brown bears The park and preserve encompass 4 093 077 acres 6 395 43 sq mi 16 564 09 km2 which is between the sizes of Connecticut and New Jersey Most of the national park is a designated wilderness area The park is named after Mount Katmai its centerpiece stratovolcano The park is located on the Alaska Peninsula across from Kodiak Island with headquarters in nearby King Salmon about 290 miles 470 km southwest of Anchorage The area was first designated a national monument in 1918 to protect the area around the major 1912 volcanic eruption of Novarupta which formed the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes a 40 square mile 100 km2 100 to 700 foot deep 30 to 213 m pyroclastic flow The park includes as many as 18 individual volcanoes seven of which have been active since 1900 Katmai National Park and PreserveIUCN category II national park 1 The summit crater lake of Mount KatmaiLocation in AlaskaShow map of AlaskaLocation in North AmericaShow map of North AmericaLocationLake and Peninsula Kodiak Island Kenai Peninsula and Bristol Bay boroughs Alaska United StatesNearest cityKing SalmonCoordinates58 30 N 155 00 W 58 5 N 155 W 58 5 155 Coordinates 58 30 N 155 00 W 58 5 N 155 W 58 5 155Area4 093 077 acres 16 564 09 km2 2 EstablishedDecember 2 1980Visitors37 818 in 2015 latest count 3 Governing bodyNational Park ServiceWebsiteKatmai National Park amp Preserveclass notpageimage Map of Katmai National Park and Preserve class notpageimage Map of Katmai National Park and surrounding areaInitially designated because of its volcanic history the monument was left undeveloped and largely unvisited until the 1950s The monument and surrounding lands became appreciated for their wide variety of wildlife including an abundance of sockeye salmon and the brown bears that feed upon them After a series of boundary expansions the present national park and preserve were established in 1980 under the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act Contents 1 Geography 1 1 Volcanoes 2 Activities 3 Climate 4 Ecosystems 5 History 5 1 Precontact period and archaeology 5 2 Russians and Americans 5 3 National monument 5 4 National park and preserve 6 Environmental Issues 6 1 Exxon Valdez oil spill 7 Administrative 7 1 List of superintendents 8 See also 9 References 10 Bibliography 11 External linksGeography Edit 3D image of the park created via Landsat data overlaid on a digital elevation model Katmai occupies the Pacific Ocean side of the Alaska Peninsula opposite Kodiak Island on the Shelikof Strait The park s chief features are its coast the Aleutian Range with a chain of fifteen volcanic mountains across the coastal southeastern part of the park and a series of large lakes in the flatter western part of the park The closest significant town to the park is King Salmon where the park s headquarters is located about 5 miles 8 0 km down the Naknek River from the park entrance The Alaska Peninsula Highway connects Naknek Lake near the entrance to King Salmon continuing to the mouth of the river at Naknek The road is not connected to the Alaska road system Access to the park s interior is by boat on Naknek Lake Another road runs from Brooks Camp to Three Forks which overlooks the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes The 497 mile 800 km long coastline is deeply indented running from the entrance to the Cook Inlet at Kamishak Bay south to Cape Kubugakli The mountains run from southwest to northeast about 15 miles 24 km inland 4 5 The park includes McNeil River State Game Sanctuary and Refuge on Kamishak Bay The Alagnak River designated a wild river originates within the preserve at Kukaklek Lake The Naknek River which empties into Bristol Bay originates within the park The park adjoins Becharof National Wildlife Refuge to the south 4 Of the park and preserve s acres 3 922 529 acres 1 587 391 ha are in the national park where all sport and subsistence hunting is prohibited 418 548 acres 169 380 ha are preserve lands where both sport and subsistence hunting are permitted The most commonly hunted species in the preserve includes the brown bear which has led to some problems about bear hunting due to small preserve population sizes and stalking bears to close limits 6 7 The foundation rocks on the Alaska Peninsula are divided by the Bruin Bay Fault into fossiliferous sedimentary rocks of Jurassic and Cretaceous age to the east and metamorphic and igneous rocks to the west The granite Aleutian Range batholith has intruded through these rocks The majority of the higher mountains in the park are of volcanic origin The park has been extensively altered by glaciation both in the high lands where the mountains have been sculpted by glaciers and in the lowlands where lakes have been excavated Outwash plains and terminal moraines are also featured in the park Soil types vary from rock or volcanic ash of vary depth to deep wet soils overlain with peat Although permafrost exists at higher elevations it is not present in the lowlands 8 Two physiographic provinces cover the park The Aleutian Range province is composed of the Shelikof Strait coastline about 10 miles 16 km deep along the coast the Aleutian Mountain zone and the lake or Hudsonian zone Farther west the Nushagak Bristol Bay Lowlands province is separated from the Aleutian zone by the Bruin Bay Fault occupying a small corner of the park 9 Volcanoes Edit Fourpeaked Mountain and Mount Douglas The active volcanoes in the park are Mount Katmai Novarupta Trident Volcano Mount Mageik Mount Martin and Fourpeaked Mountain Other volcanoes that have erupted in recent times in geological terms but not in historical times are Mount Douglas Mount Griggs Snowy Mountain Mount Denison Mount Kukak Devils Desk Mount Kaguyak Mount Cerberus Falling Mountain and Kejulik Volcano 10 Martin and Mageik produce steam that can be seen from King Salmon while Trident was active in 1957 1965 and 1968 8 Novarupta lava dome The most significant volcanic event in historical times was the simultaneous eruption of Mount Katmai and Novarupta in June 1912 Novarupta s eruption produced a pyroclastic flow that covered a nearby valley with ash as much as 300 feet 91 m thick At the same time the summit of Katmai collapsed into a caldera As the valley deposits cooled they emitted steam from fissures and fumaroles earning the name Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes As heat has dissipated from the deposits the steam vents have subsided and the valley has been eroded At present streams have cut canyons as much as 100 feet 30 m deep but only 5 to 10 feet 1 5 to 3 0 m wide 8 Katmai is a stratovolcano 6 716 feet 2 047 m in height with a large summit caldera Several glaciers originate from the mountain and one in the caldera is one of the few to have formed in historical times 8 The caldera floor is about 250 metres 820 ft below the rim The mountain stands on Jurassic sedimentary rocks and its volcanic components are less than 1 500 feet 460 m thick 11 Apart from the 1912 eruption no significant activity has occurred in historical times 12 Novarupta is described as a Plinian pyroclastic vent with a plug dome a 2 000 metre 6 600 ft diameter crater with a 65 metre 213 ft 400 metre 1 300 ft diameter dome in the middle 13 Its only historical activity was the 1912 eruption 14 Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Trident is a complex of three stratovolcanoes the highest of which is 3 599 feet 1 097 m tall standing up to 1 894 feet 577 m above their base 15 Trident has been intermittently active in historical times primarily between 1953 and 1974 During that time about 0 7 cubic kilometers of material was erupted to form a new peak called Southwest Trident from the former site of a large fumarolic pit 16 Mount Martin is 6 102 feet 1 860 m high standing on a 1 400 metre 4 600 ft high ridge near Mount Mageik partly overlapping the much older Alagogshak volcano 17 The summit has a 300 metre 980 ft diameter crater containing fumaroles and sometimes a crater lake A large lava flow extends from the mountain to fill the upper part of Angle Creek s valley with about five cubic kilometers of material 18 There have been no significant eruptions from Martin but the summit emits steam and the volcano is the site of earthquake swarms 19 Mageik stands on the same sedimentary rocks as Martin The composite structure has four vents the highest at 7 103 feet 2 165 m and three subsidiary vent cones A small crater hold a lake and fumaroles on the highest cone s flank 20 Apart from steaming there has been no recent activity but there was a large debris avalanche in 1912 probably associated with the eruption of Katmai amounting to between 0 05 and 0 10 cubic kilometer in volume 21 Fourpeaked Mountain is a stratovolcano with a probable vent at the summit Much of the 6 903 foot 2 104 m mountain is covered by Fourpeaked Glacier 22 Fourpeaked produced phreatic eruptions in September 2006 23 Trident volcano Mount Griggs is a 7 602 foot 2 317 m stratovolcano near Novarupta and somewhat to the northwest of the otherwise straight line of volcanoes in Katmai The flat topped mountain has three concentric craters the largest 1 500 metres 4 900 ft wide The mountain s geochemistry differs from its neighbors Griggs has active sulfurous fumaroles 24 Snowy Mountain is a small volcano 7 090 feet 2 160 m tall with ten significant glaciers covering almost all of the mountain Roughly a third to half of the mountain has been eroded by glacial action The volcano has two vents about 4 kilometres 2 5 mi apart and active fumaroles at the tallest summit 25 Mount Denison is a 7 605 foot 2 318 m peak with four related vents at the head of three glaciers 26 the tallest point in the park 9 Mount Kukak is another ice covered volcano 6 693 feet 2 040 m tall It has a strong fumarole field near the summit 27 Devils Desk is a heavily eroded stratovolcano 6 411 feet 1 954 m high 28 Kaguyak is a stratovolcano truncated by a caldera like Katmai The highest peak is 2 956 feet 901 m with a 2 5 kilometre 1 6 mi diameter crater lake There are two large domes within the caldera and two on the flanks 29 Mount Douglas is a 7 021 foot 2 140 m stratovolcano extensively eroded by ice with a small acidic crater lake at its summit 30 7 454 foot 2 272 m Mount Steller is located between Kukak and Denison with an unknown number of vents in ice covered terrain 31 Kejulik is a 4 977 foot 1 517 m eroded volcanic remnant 32 None of these volcanoes have exhibited significant behavior in historic times Activities Edit A brown bear in Hallo Bay Katmai National Park Alaska Activities at Katmai include hiking backpacking camping backcountry skiing fishing kayaking boat tours and interpretive programs Katmai is also well known for Alaskan brown bears and the sockeye salmon that attract both bears and people Katmai contains the world s largest protected brown bear population estimated to number about 2 200 33 Bears are especially likely to congregate at the Brooks Falls viewing platform when the salmon are spawning and many well known photographs of Alaskan brown bears have been taken there The salmon arrive early at Brooks Falls compared to other streams and between 43 and 70 individual bears have been documented at the falls in July and an equal number of bears are seen in the lower river in September 34 The coastal areas such as Hallo Bay Kukak Bay Kuliak Bay Kaflia Bay Geographic Harbor and Chiniak Bay also host very high population densities of bears year round due to the availability of clams and edible coastal sedge as well as salmon and other fish Other hotspots include Swikshak Lagoon American Creek and in the preserve Moraine Creek and Funnel Creek 35 Grizzly bear fishing for salmon at Brooks Falls Alaska The vast majority of Katmai visitors come to Brooks Camp one of the only developed areas of the park and few venture further than the bear viewing platforms and the adjacent Brooks Camp area Rangers at the park are extremely careful not to allow bears to obtain human food or get into confrontations with humans As a result bears in Katmai Park are uniquely unafraid of and uninterested in humans 34 and will allow people to approach and photograph much more closely than bears elsewhere The bears of Brooks Camp can be seen on computers and smartphones via webcams pioneered by the National Park Service 36 37 July and September are by far the best months for viewing brown bears in the Brooks Camp area Lodging is available in the park at Brooks Camp and Grosvenor Lodge and at several other lodges scattered around the park on inholdings 38 Climate EditAccording to the Koppen climate classification system Katmai National Park and Preserve has a subarctic climate Dfc with cool summers and year around precipitation Dfc climates are defined by their coldest month averaging below 32 F 0 C 1 3 months averaging above 50 F 10 C all months with average temperatures below 71 6 F 22 0 C and no significant precipitation difference between seasons According to the United States Department of Agriculture the Plant Hardiness zone at Brooks Falls at 92 feet 28 m elevation is 3b with an average annual extreme minimum temperature of 30 9 F 34 9 C 39 Ecosystems Edit Bear catches salmon at Brooks Falls Weather at Katmai is variable though reliably rainy or drizzly Summer high temperatures average about 63 F 17 C and winter lows are between 4 and 40 F 20 and 4 C Fall is somewhat drier than the rest of the year and warm days can occur year round Rainfall is heaviest near the coast with up to 60 inches 150 cm and lighter to the west 40 The park supports 29 mammal species 137 bird species 24 freshwater fish species and four anadromous fish species 9 Mammal species that inhabit Katmai include snowshoe hare moose timber wolf brown bear coyote beaver lynx wolverine river otter mink Arctic and red fox species weasel porcupine and marten Marine mammals include the harbor seal sea lion sea otter beluga whale killer whale and gray whale Caribou are occasionally within the park during winter seasons 41 The most important fish in the park are sockeye salmon which feed bears bald eagles and others during their spawning runs in the park s rivers Salmon enter the Naknek River drainage from Bristol Bay in June and July and spawn from August to October 42 The park also supports a variety of plant communities Common wildflowers that grow in the park include beachhead iris nootka lupine and woolly geranium 43 History EditPrecontact period and archaeology Edit Prehistoric artifacts have been found dating to about 6 000 years before the present near the old Katmai village on the park s south coast A number of other sites have been found along the coast notably those of Kaguyak and Kukak with occupation into historic times Some of these including sites 49 AF 3 near Kanatak and 49 MK 10 present clear evidence of habitation up to the 1912 eruption but have not been investigated in detail 44 45 The Amalik Bay Archeological District is a major area containing evidence of some of the earliest human activity in the area with finds dating back more than 7 000 years Inland Brooks Camp is a significant archaeological site dating to about 4500 BP listed on the National Register of Historic Places NRHP in 1977 and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1993 A village abandoned after the 1912 eruption at the mouth of the Savonoski River is documented as the Old Savonoski Site while a more extensive district of sites is located near the mouth of the Grosvenor River The DIL 161 Site is located in the watershed of the Alagnak River and shows evidence of habitation in the first millennium Russians and Americans Edit Russians were the first Europeans to arrive in the area in significant numbers trading in furs They encountered the Aglegmuit Eskimos on the Bristol Bay side of the peninsula and the Koniag Eskino on the Shelikov Strait side Katmai Village was the only location within the park where Europeans lived through the mid 19th century though their numbers were always few In the latter part of the 19th century a few villages were established inland at Severnosky and along the coast at Douglas and Kukak American traders operating for the Alaska Commercial Company took the place of the Russians As sea otters became scarce the trade dried up and Katmai and Douglas were abandoned in the early 20th century In the 1890s the region was a route for travelers going to Nome for Nome s short lived gold rush Writer Rex Beach was one of these writing about life on Bristol Bay during the salmon run in The Silver Horde Prospects for oil gold and coal received brief attention then died out by 1912 9 Pyroclastic flow deposits in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes By 1898 there were reports of frequent earthquakes in the vicinity of Katmai Pass These intensified around June 1 1912 inducing the few local residents to leave Katmai and Novarupta erupted on June 6 with a noise heard in Fairbanks 500 miles 800 km away and Juneau 750 miles 1 210 km distant Heavy eruptions continued through June 7 then gradually declined from June 8 onwards Ash fell 6 to 12 inches 15 to 30 cm deep in Kodiak and ash fell on the Alaskan mainland and eastwards as far as Puget Sound Atmospheric haze was noted worldwide and temperatures were depressed in the northern hemisphere during the second half of 1912 Initial reports pinpointed Mount Katmai as the center of eruption Later reports cast doubt on Katmai s primary role and it was not until 1954 that Novarupta was found to be the primary volcanic center The region around the mountains which had received heavy ashfall was devastated 46 Satellite image of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and surrounding area The National Geographic Society backed five expeditions to Katmai beginning in 1915 with a trip to Kodiak Island and a short stay on the mainland The expedition led by Robert Fiske Griggs a botanist who was initially interested in the study of plant recolonization Griggs follow up expedition in 1916 discovered and named the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and found Novarupta The National Geographic Society delighted with the discoveries funded a larger expedition in 1917 to make a survey of the region The subsequent articles published in National Geographic magazine brought the region to prominence in the public and Griggs began to advocate for the protection of the area in the national park system backed by the National Geographic Society At this time legislation to establish Mount McKinley National Park later renamed Denali National Park was pending and the idea of making Katmai a national park was discussed by National Park Service acting director Horace M Albright and National Geographic Society president Gilbert Hovey Grosvenor Albright advised that national park legislation was unlikely to pass suggesting instead that the region be protected as a national monument by the President using the Antiquities Act of 1906 After some negotiation and after a 1918 expedition opined that the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes was a permanent feature a proclamation was prepared to protect 1 080 000 acres 440 000 ha around Mount Katmai the valley and the most of Iliuk Arm of Naknek Lake Although only a third the area of the present park and preserve the monument was nevertheless half the size of Yellowstone National Park from the outset President Woodrow Wilson signed the proclamation of Katmai National Monument on September 24 1918 46 National monument Edit The proclamation had little immediate effect other than grumbling from territorial officials A 1923 expedition found that the region had little exploitable mineral potential Tourists in the early 1920s amounted to a few dozen No National Park Service staff were assigned to the site which was in theory administered by Mount McKinley By 1928 more visitors arrived The most prominent among them was Father Bernard R Hubbard an explorer of Alaska who gained fame as The Glacier Priest Hubbard documented the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes in movies that he showed at lectures until the 1950s At the same time the Park Service became aware that Katmai was among the best habitat for grizzlies in Alaska and that the monument should be expanded to protect them and the prolific salmon spawning grounds In 1931 President Herbert Hoover issued a proclamation expanding the monument under the Antiquities Act to 2 697 590 acres 1 091 680 ha more than doubling it in size and creating the largest single Park Service unit Crucially the expanded monument included the falls at Brooks Camp while avoiding lands along the coast thought to have potential oil deposits 47 In 1937 a ranger was finally assigned to Katmai seconded to the monument from Mount McKinley spending most of June trying to get there and one day in the monument before returning to Mount McKinley In 1939 the United States Bureau of Fisheries established an encampment at the Brooks Lake outlet having previously blasted out part of the falls in 1921 At about the same time the Park Service became concerned about illegal trapping in the monument asking the Alaska Fish and Game Commission to send wardens to patrol the area Several trappers were apprehended and Park Service personnel visited the monument sending back positive reports on the scenery and wildlife These reports and efforts to make poaching more difficult led to another boundary adjustment that included the islands in the Shelikof Strait and Cook Inlet within 5 miles 8 0 km of the old boundary signed by President Franklin D Roosevelt on August 4 1941 which increased the monument s area by several thousand acres 47 Mountains of the Aleutian Range from a floatplane flying to Brooks Camp Poaching increased after World War II At the same time Alaskan territorial interests sought to have the monument disestablished or reduced in size to allow mining and fishing because the activity at the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes had declined and because the Park Service had made no effort to develop the monument for visitors These proposals were turned aside and in 1950 a seasonal ranger was assigned to Katmai 47 William Nancarrow built a small camp at Brooks River By the mid 1950s the Park Service embarked on its Mission 66 program to expand visitor services Katmai was to receive a headquarters at King Salmon a visitor center at Valley Junction in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes ranger stations campgrounds modest roads and dock facilities on the lakes An airstrip was also proposed for Brooks Camp The airstrip was not built but a road from Brooks Camp to the valley was built In the early 1960s a road was proposed that would run across the peninsula through the park connecting to King Salmon The Park Service was opposed The 1964 Alaska earthquake stalled the proposal for several years resurfacing in 1968 with local support However the Park Service opposed the plans and the road project was set aside In the meantime headquarters facilities were developed at King Salmon In 1967 the state of Alaska set aside the McNeil River State Game Sanctuary with 85 000 acres 34 000 ha under protection to safeguard the bear fishing grounds on the river adjacent to Katmai McNeil River was declared a National Natural Landmark in 1968 48 49 In the 1990s a state game refuge with 120 000 acres 49 000 ha was established to the north of the sanctuary to protect Chenik Lake which supported a smaller fish run attracting bears The refuge and the expanded 128 000 acres 52 000 ha sanctuary have remained closed to hunting despite an unsuccessful 2005 attempt by Governor Frank Murkowski and again in 2007 by Sarah Palin s Board of Game Recently there have been proposals to merge the sanctuary and refuge into Katmai 50 When George B Hartzog Jr became director of the National Park Service in 1964 he commissioned a report on Alaskan public lands entitled Operation Great Land The study identified 39 site that might become preserves or recreation lands and it recommended that Katmai be expanded somewhat to the west and substantially to the north The boundary adjustments were amended to a westward expansion of 94 547 acres 38 262 ha that President Lyndon B Johnson signed in 1968 producing anger in Alaska In 1971 Katmai finally gained a full time on site park superintendent Also in 1971 Congress passed the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act ANCSA which established a framework to divide up Alaska s federal lands ANCSA established a timetable for claims withdrawals and designations requiring the Park Service to come up with a plan for future park units The Park Service proposed 33 000 000 acres 13 000 000 ha of new park lands among them a 1 218 490 acre 493 110 ha expansion of Katmai Through the mid 1970s a variety of proposals were circulated for expansion and wilderness designation At the same time concerns were raised about the withdrawal of game lands from sport hunting and the ability of local residents to continue to practice subsistence hunting To address these concerns legislation was proposed to create national preserve lands that would confer protection while allowing regulated sport hunting Early versions of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act ANILCA proposed Katmai National Park and Preserve as a combination of park and preserve lands This legislation was stalled in Congress by 1978 Because a deadline was approaching for state selection of public lands President Jimmy Carter used his authority under the Antiquities Act to expand Katmai by 1 370 000 acres 550 000 ha on December 1 1978 mainly on the northern side of the monument 48 National park and preserve Edit Katmai National Park Geologic map where nig is the Episode I valley filling ignimbrite of June 6 7 1912 and nrd is the Novarupta rhyolite dome It took two more years for Congress to act on a final ANILCA bill On December 2 1980 the final bill established Katmai National Park and Preserve with 1 037 000 acres 420 000 ha of additional park bringing it to 3 674 529 33 acres 1 487 029 26 ha and 308 000 acres 125 000 ha of preserve with 3 384 358 acres 1 369 601 ha of wilderness lands 51 48 Unlike most ANILCA parks the legislation for Katmai did not grant subsistence hunting access to national park lands only to the preserve 52 Sport and subsistence hunting is prohibited in Katmai National Park but allowed in the preserve Environmental Issues EditExxon Valdez oil spill Edit The grounding of the oil tanker Exxon Valdez in Prince William Sound on March 24 1989 produced extensive contamination of the Katmai coastline By early April oil had reached Kenai Fjords National Park Oil reached Cape Douglas in Katmai on April 26 and points southwards in the following week In early May a variety of dredges and skimmer vessels were working in the Shelikof Strait but 90 of the Katmai coastline was oiled The worst hit areas were Cape Chiniak and Chiniak Lagoon Hallo Bay Beach and its lagoon Cape Gull and Kaflia Bay and Cape Douglas Casualties in birds alone were estimated at 8 400 dead birds Work resumed in 1990 with smaller efforts in 1991 to catch the last oil 52 Administrative EditThe superintendent of Katmai is also responsible for Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve and Alagnak Wild River 53 List of superintendents Edit Gilbert E Blinn 3 1971 6 1979 Roy M Sanborn acting 6 1979 9 1979 David K Morris 9 1979 4 1987 James R Pepper acting 7 1987 8 1987 Gilbert R Ray Bane 8 1987 3 1990 James F Ryan acting 3 1990 6 1990 Alan D Eliason 6 1990 7 1993 Will Tipton acting 8 1993 12 1993 William Pierce 12 1993 1998 moved to Anchorage in 1996 Deborah O Liggett 10 1998 7 2003 Joe Fowler acting 8 2003 11 2003 Joe Fowler 11 2003 4 2005 Steve Frye 6 2005 3 2006 Troy Hamon acting 4 2006 7 2006 Ralph Moore 7 2006 10 2012 Diane Chung 2013 2016 Karen Bradford 2016 2017 Mark Sturm 2017 PresentSee also Edit Alaska portalList of national parks of the United States National Register of Historic Places listings in Katmai National Park and Preserve Timothy Treadwell Fat Bear WeekReferences Edit Protected Area Profile for Katmai from the World Database of Protected Areas protectedplanet net UN World Conservation Monitoring Centre and the IUCN Retrieved September 7 2021 Listing of acreage December 31 2011 XLSX Land Resource Division National Park Service Retrieved March 7 2012 National Park Service Acreage Reports NPS Annual Recreation Visits Report National Park Service Retrieved March 7 2019 a b Map of Katmai National Park and Preserve PDF National Park Service Retrieved March 3 2013 Coasts Shorelines Katmai National Park and Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 3 2013 Katmai Preserve Bear Hunt National Parks Traveler Katmai Hunting National Park Service a b c d Geologic Activities Katmai National Park and Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 4 2013 a b c d Norris Ch 1 Volcanoes amp Lava Flows Katmai National Park and Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 3 2013 Mount Katmai description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 4 2013 Katmai reported activity Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 4 2013 Novarupta description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 4 2013 Novarupta reported activity Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 4 2013 Trident Volcano description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 4 2013 Trident reported activity Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 4 2013 Alagogshak Alaska Volcano Observatory U S Geological Survey Retrieved February 15 2019 Mount Martin description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 4 2013 Mount Martin reported activity Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 4 2013 Mount Mageik description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Mageik reported activity Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Fourpeaked Mountain description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Fourpeaked reported activity Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Mount Griggs description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Snowy Mountain description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Mount Denison description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Kukak Volcano description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Devils Desk description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Kaguyak Crater description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Mount Douglas description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Mount Steller description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Kejulik description and information Alaska Volcano Observatory Retrieved March 5 2013 Plan Your Visit Katmai National Park amp Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 4 2013 a b Brown Bears of Katmai Katmai National Park and Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 4 2013 Bear Watching in Katmai National Park and Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 4 2013 Brooks Falls Bearcam October 10 2022 Live Webstream Captures Fishing Bears American Forests American Forests Retrieved July 26 2012 Lodging Katmai National Park and Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 3 2013 USDA Interactive Plant Hardiness Map United States Department of Agriculture Archived from the original on July 4 2019 Retrieved July 12 2019 Weather Katmai National Park and Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 5 2013 Animals Katmai National Park and Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 5 2013 Fish Katmai National Park and Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 5 2013 Wildflowers Katmai National Park amp Preserve U S National Park Service www nps gov Retrieved January 11 2022 a href Template Cite web html title Template Cite web cite web a CS1 maint url status link Bohannon Charles 1975 National Register nomination for Archeological Site 49 MK 10 redacted available by request from the National Park Service Bohannon Charles 1975 National Register nomination for Archeological Site 49 AF 3 redacted available by request from the National Park Service a b Norris Ch 2 a b c Norris Ch 3 a b c Norris Ch 4 The Grizzly Almanac pg 166 Friends of McNeil River Home Friends of McNeil River Retrieved January 31 2015 Wilderness Connect wilderness net Retrieved August 31 2019 a b Norris Ch 5 Superintendent Named for Katmai National Park Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve National Park Service Retrieved March 3 2013 Bibliography EditNorris Frank B 1996 Isolated Paradise An Administrative History of the Katmai and Aniakchak NPS Units Alaska National Park ServiceExternal links Edit Wikimedia Commons has media related to Katmai National Park Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Katmai National Park Official website of the National Park Service Alaska s National Parklands National Park Service Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Katmai National Park and Preserve amp oldid 1152107200 History, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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