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Northern Maramureș

Northern Maramureș (Romanian: Maramureșul de Nord, [maraˈmureʃul de ˈnord]; Hungarian: Észak-Máramaros; Ukrainian: Північна Мараморщина, romanizedPivnichna Maramorshchyna) is a geographic-historical region comprising roughly the eastern half of the Zakarpattia Oblast in southwestern Ukraine, near the border with Romania. Until 1920, it was part of the Maramureș subregion of Transylvania, at which time the former Máramaros County was divided into a northern part (incorporated into Czechoslovakia, the part which is now in Ukraine), and a southern part (incorporated into the Kingdom of Romania).

Northern Maramureș (gold) as part of the Zakarpattia Oblast of Ukraine, with district boundaries shown

From 1920 till 1939, the region belonged to Czechoslovakia, then until 1944 to Hungary, and then until 1991 to the Soviet Union. Since 1991, Northern Maramureș has been part of Ukraine.

The Tisza River is part of the boundary separating Northern Maramureș from Romania.

The majority of the population are Ukrainians (Rusyns, Boykos and Hutsuls - indigenous groups), while a Romanian community, totaling 32,100 according to the 2001 Ukraine census,[1] lives compactly, mostly in some eighteen localities, in Rakhiv and Tiachiv raions (districts), close to the Romanian border. For most of the 20th century, communications between Southern and Northern Maramureș were severed. After the collapse of Communist Regimes in Europe, and through cooperation between the Romanian and Ukrainian governments, the restoration of bridges across the Tisza has begun.

Geography and population edit

Geographic description edit

Maramureș is an almost completely enclosed mountain valley with an area slightly smaller than that of the U.S. state of Connecticut. The only way to enter the region, besides crossing mountain slopes of 1,000 meters to 2,500 meters high, is to follow the river Tisza upstream. To a significant extent, the geography of Maramureș has determined its history and distinctive traditions.

Northern Maramureș includes all of the right bank of the Tisza within the historical region, and small mountain portions on the left bank. Rivers that flow through the region include the Tisza, Rika (Rica), and Tereblia. Lake Sinevir is also located there.

In present-day Zakarpattia Oblast of Ukraine edit

The territory of the Zakarpattia Region of Ukraine is 12,880 km2. It has 1,287,400 inhabitants (1999 data). Zakarpattia is divided into 13 districts and 5 cities.[2] Of these, Northern Maramureș roughly corresponds to 4 districts and one city. Together these have an area of approximately 6,900 km2 and 445,000 inhabitants:[3]

  • the city of Khust (Ukrainian: Хуст, Romanian: Hust), with 35,500 inhabitants
  • the Khust Raion (Ukrainian: Хуст; abbreviated below HU), with 94,800 inhabitants (different from the city)
  • the Mizhhiria Raion (Ukrainian: Міжгір'я; abbreviated below MY), with 50,700 inhabitants
  • the Tiachiv Raion, (Ukrainian: Тячів, Romanian: Teceu; abbreviated below TJ), with 172,700 inhabitants
  • the Rakhiv Raion (Ukrainian: Рахів; Romanian: Rahău; abbreviated below RA), with 91,300 inhabitants

The most important cities and towns of Northern Maramureș are (the district and population are indicated):

  • Bushtyno (Romanian: Bustea, Hungarian: Bustyaháza) TJ; 8,300
  • Dubove (Romanian: Dâmbu, Hungarian: Dombó) TJ; 10,400
  • Jasinja (Romanian: Frăsini, Hungarian: Kőrösmező) RA; 1,500
  • Kobylec'ka Poljana (Romanian: Poiana Cobilei, Hungarian: Gyertyánliget) RA; 3,300
  • Mizhhir'ja (Romanian: Boureni, Hungarian: Ökörmező) MY; 10,200
  • Rachiv (Romanian: Rahău, Hungarian: Rahó) RA; 17,000
  • Solotvyno (Romanian: Slatina, Hungarian: Aknaszlatina) TJ; 9,900
  • Teresva (Romanian: Taras, Hungarian: Taracköz) TJ; 7,600
  • Tiachiv (Romanian: Teceu, Hungarian: Técső) TJ; 11,300
  • Ust'-Chorna (Romanian: Gura Ciornei, Hungarian: Királymező) TJ; 1,500
  • Velykyy Bychkiv (Romanian: Bocicoiu Mare, Hungarian: Nagybocskó) RA; 9,400
  • Vyshkovo (Romanian: Vășcova, Hungarian: Visk) HU; 8,100 (see [1])

The biggest villages in Northern Maramureș are:

  • Bedevlja (Romanian: Bedeu, Hungarian: Bedőháza)
  • Belin (Romanian: Bilin, Hungarian: Bilin)
  • Bila Tserkva (Romanian: Biserica Albă, Hungarian: Tiszafejéregyház)
  • Danylovo (Romanian: Danîlovo, Hungarian: Husztsófalva)
  • Delovoe (Romanian: Trebuşeni, Hungarian: Terebesfejérpatak)
  • Dibrova (Romanian: Apşa de Jos, Hungarian: Alsóapsa)
  • Dovghe (Romanian: Dolha, Hungarian: Dolha)
  • Drahovo (Romanian: Drăgoieşti, Hungarian: Kövesliget)
  • Dulovo (Romanian: Duleşti, Hungarian: Dulfalva)
  • Glibokiy Potik (Romanian: Strâmtura, Hungarian: Szorospatak)
  • Gornichovo (Romanian: Hernicea, Hungarian: Herincse)
  • Grusevo (Romanian: Peri, Hungarian: Szentmihálykörtvélyes)
  • Kaliny (Romanian: Călineştii de Jos, Hungarian: Alsókálinfalva)
  • Kolochava (Romanian: Călacea de Jos, Hungarian: Alsókalocsa)
  • Komsomoljsk (Romanian: Mocra, Hungarian: Németmokra)
  • Kushnica (Romanian: Cuşniţa, Hungarian: Kusnyicza)
  • Negrovec (Romanian: Negrovăţ, Hungarian: Felsőkalocsa)
  • Neresnica (Romanian: Nereşniţa, Hungarian: Nyéresháza)
  • Nizhny Bistrzi (Romanian: Bistra de Jos, Hungarian: Alsóbisztra)
  • Nizhny Selishte (Romanian: Sălişte, Hungarian: Alsószelistye)
  • Olshanj (Romanian: Vulşana, Hungarian: Égermező)
  • Playuts (Probably formerly Vilhovatij) (Romanian: Plăiuţ, Hungarian: Kiscserjés)
  • Prislop (Romanian: Prislopu Mare, Hungarian: Pereszlő)
  • Sredne Vodyane (Romanian: Apşa de Mijloc, Hungarian: Középapsa)
  • Tereblja (Romanian: Talabor, Hungarian: Talaborfalu)
  • Topchino (Romanian: Topcina, Hungarian: Topcsinó)
  • Uglia (Romanian: Uglea, Hungarian: Uglya)
  • Verhne Vodyane (Romanian: Apşa de Sus, Hungarian: Felsőapsa)
  • Vonjgovo (Romanian: Voineşti, Hungarian: Vajnág)
  • Zolotarovo (Romanian: Domneşti, Hungarian: Ötvösfalva)

In historical Maramureș edit

Northern Maramureș is historically and geographically close to southern Maramureș, and together form the historical region of Maramureș (Romanian: Maramureș, Hungarian: Máramaros). Between 1870 and 1918, Máramaros (north and south) was a county in the Transleitanian part of Austria-Hungary. It was divided into 10 rural districts (Hungarian: járás, Romanian: plase) and 1 urban district (Hungarian: rendezett tanácsú város, Romanian: plasă urbană):

Northern Maramureș Southern Maramureș
Sziget / Sighet /- (rural district)
Dolha / Dolha / Dovhe (capital: Dolha / Dolha / Dovhe) Izavölgy / Iza / - (capital: Dragomérfalva / Dragomireşti / -)
Huszt / Hust / Khust (capital: Huszt / Hust / Khust) Sugatag / Şugatag / - (capital: Aknasugatag / Ocna Şugatag / -)
Ökörmező / Boureni / Mizhhir'ya (capital: Ökörmező / Boureni / Mizhhir'ya) Visó / Vişeu / -(capital: Felsővisó / Vişeu de Sus / -)
Taracviz / Taras / Teresva (capital: Taracköz / Taras / Teresva) Sziget / Sighet /- (urban district; capital: Máramarossziget / Sighetu Marmaţiei / -)
Técső / Teceu / Tiachiv (capital: Técső / Teceu / Tiachiv)
Tiszavölgy / Tisa / Tissa (capital: Rahó / Rahău / Rakhiv)

Note: All names are written in the following order: Hungarian / Romanian / Ukrainian.

 
Máramaros vármegye (county) in 1912 (map in Hungarian).

Dolha, Huszt, Ökörmező, Taracviz, Técső, and Tiszavölgy districts each had a Ukrainian majority (with Tiszavölgy having a specifically Hutsul majority). The rural Sziget district, along with Izavölgy, Sugatag, and Visó districts each had a Romanian majority, while the urban Sziget district was mixed Hungarian/Romanian. There was a significant Ukrainian minority in Visó, and significant Romanian minorities in Huszt, Taracviz, Técső, and Tiszavölgy districts. Visó also contained a significant German minority ("Zipser") around the city of Felsővisó (Romanian: Vișeu de Sus; German: Oberwischau).

The six districts in the left-hand column were apportioned to Czechoslovakia in 1920. In 1938, Hungary regained their southern portion by the terms of the First Vienna Award and then seized the rest in March 1939. In 1944 they went to the Soviet Union. Since 1991 they have been part of Ukraine. The four districts in the right-hand column were given to Romania, where they have remained ever since, except for 1940–1944, when they were again in Hungary by the terms of the Second Vienna Award. The rural Sziget (Sighet) district, despite being ethnically homogeneously Romanian, was divided: the part north of the Tisza river followed the same fate as the Ukrainian districts, while the part south of the Tisza, the same as the Romanian ones. More than half of the Romanian minority in the present Zakarpattia Oblast resides in what before 1920 was the rural Sziget district.

The total area of Maramureș county was 10,354.9 km2, of which 6,974 km2 became the northern part and 3,381 km2 became the southern part. The approximately 160 localities were divided as follows: slightly less than 100 joined the north, and slightly more than 60 joined the south. in 1920, the south had a population of approximately 155,000. A majority of the inhabitants were Romanian, with Jewish, Hungarian, Ukrainian and German minorities. The north at the same time had a population of about 220,000, including some 20,000 Romanians.

According to the 1910 Austrian census, Máramaros County had a population which by language was:

  • Ruthenian, 159,489
  • Romanian, 84,510
  • German, 59,552
  • Hungarian, 52,964.

A substantial part of the German and Hungarian-speaking population were in fact Jews.

In Carpathian Ruthenia edit

Carpathian Ruthenia, i.e., the region inhabited by Rusyns (Ruthenians) in Austria-Hungary, spread over some two-thirds of the historic counties of Ung, Bereg, and Ugocsa (the remaining one third are respectively Slovak, Hungarian, and Romanian), and from the 16th century also gradually over a part (up to half) of Maramureș county. Therefore, in texts dealing with the period after 1600, Northern Maramureș is sometimes included in historic Carpathian Ruthenia, historic Ruszinszko, or Pidkarpadska Rus', as opposed to earlier texts, when it is not.[4]

Demographic data edit

 
Ethnic map of Zakarpattia Oblast in 2001.
  mixed Ukrainians and Russians
Census year Total population of
Pidkarpadska Rus' / Zakarpattia
Total population of
the 4 raions and Khust
Ukrainians Romanians
(official numbers[5])
1880 408,971 16,713
1921 604,745 220,000 140,000 20,000
1930 734,315
1959 920,170 18,346
1970 1,056,000 23,454
1979 1,155,000 27,155
1989 1,245,000 29,485
2001 c. 1,255,000 32,100

Romanian localities in Northern Maramureș edit

In Northern Maramureș, there are anywhere between ca. 32,000 (according to official Ukrainian sources), ca. 40,000 (according to most Romanian sources), to over 50,000[6] Romanians living today in a compact area of about 300 km2, in 17 villages and one town, separated from Romania only by the river Tisza. This compactly Romanian-inhabited region, which itself separates the Hutsul areas (most of the Rakhiv raion/district) in the east from the rest of Zakarpattia, corresponds exactly to the north-Tisza part of the former rural district of Sighet in Máramaros County before 1920 (see map). These 18 localities, with their quasi-total Romanian population, are (population data from the 2001 Ukrainian census):

  • in Teceu (Tiachiv) district (raion)
    • the town of Ocna Slatina (Ukrainian: Solotvyno, Hungarian: Aknaszlatina), a new village first mentioned ca. 1360 (the old one was burned down by the Tatars in 1241); 9,700 inhabitants and 2,200 households
    • Apşa de Jos (Ukrainian: Dibrova, Hungarian: Alsóapsa), first mentioned in 1387; includes Valea-Malului; 8,339 inhabitants and 2,300 households
    • Strâmtura (Ukrainian: Glibokiy Potik, Hungarian: Szurdok), 5,743 inhabitants, 1,398 households
    • Teteş (Ukrainian: Topchino, Hungarian: Topcsinó), 2,240 inhabitants, 610 households
    • Peri (Ukrainian: Grusevo, Hungarian: Szentmihálykörtveliés, i.e. St. Michael Monastery), first mentioned ca. 1200
    • Podișor (Ukrainian: Podishor)
    • Bescău
    • Cărbuneşti
    • Bouţul Mare
    • Bouţul Mic
  • in Rahău (Rakhiv) district (raion)
    • Biserica Albă (Ukrainian: Belaia Ţercovi, Hungarian: Tiszafejéregyhaz) 1373
    • Apşa de Mijloc (Ukrainian: Sredne Vodyane, Hungarian: Kösépapsa) 1406
    • Apşa de Sus (Ukrainian: Verhne Vodyane, Hungarian: Felsöapsa)
    • Apşiţa Veche (Ukrainian: Voditsa, Hungarian: Kisapsa)
    • Dobric (Ukrainian: Dobrik, Hungarian: Dobrikdülő)
    • Plăiuţ (Ukrainian: Playuts, Hungarian: Plajuc)
    • Strâmba (Ukrainian: Strimba, Hungarian: Almáspatak)
    • Paladi

Some Romanians also live in localities of Northern Maramureș outside the above compact area:

although far fewer than in previous centuries.

Note: There are also Romanians in the two major Zakarpattian cities, Uzhhorod and Mukachevo, as well as in the town of Korolevo (Romanian: Craia), in Vinogradovo raion, which are not in Maramureș, but respectively in Ung, Bereg, and Ugocsa. There are also two other Romanian villages:

  • Poroshkovo (Romanian: Poroșcovo, Hungarian: Poroskő), Perechyn Raion, near Munţii Păduroşi, 45 km NE of Ujgorod, 3000 inhabitants, and
  • Myrcha (Romanian: Mircea), Velykyi Berezin raion, 35 km N of Ujgorod, 1500 inhabitants.

The two villages are 40 km one from the other, in the northwest of Zakarpattia, which is not part of Northern Maramureș, but of the former Ung County. They are the last remnants of the Vlachs (Romanians) who inhabited present-day Hungary and Zakarpattia before the arrival of the Slavs (6th-8th centuries) and Hungarians (9th century), when they were isolated and afterwards assimilated. Their Ukrainian neighbors also call the inhabitants of these two villages volokhi or loshkarini, Slavic names for Romanians no longer in current use.[7]

History edit

Maramureș before the split edit

In the Middle Ages, Maramureș had a Romanian population, organized into the Voivodeship of Maramureș with a voevod elected from among the village noblemen (Romanian: knezi). The majority of the peasants in the region were free and went by a regional term specific only to Maramureş: nămeşi (from neam, clan), and only a minority were serfs (first serfs mentioned in documents in 1405).

In the more mountainous villages and hamlets, the main dwelling was raising sheep, which implied constant moving in search of new pastures to accommodate raising stocks. As a consequence, between 10th and 13th centuries, modern mountainous regions of eastern and central Slovakia saw a migration of Vlach (Romanian) shepherds from Maramureş, eventually assimilated. Another similar migration occurred in the 14th century with destination the mountainous southeasternmost corner of modern Poland. The new migrants were given special rights known as Jus Valahicum, and a century later serious local feuds occurred when these rights were abolished and the Vlachs were assimilated. A significant portion of the heritage of Gorals comes from the assimilated Vlachs. Other migrants who advanced along the Carpathian range between the 14th and 17th centuries became known as Moravian Vlachs. On their way they gradually lost their original language with the exception of some Romanian words they use in their Czech and Slovak dialect, but they preserved much of their culture (especially folklore, songs and costumes) and economic base, namely sheep breeding. In 1644, during the Thirty Years War, they were crushed by Albrecht von Wallenstein.

In the 14th century, several groups of Maramureș noblemen with their warriors (Romanian: viteji) established themselves in modern northern Moldavia, and were the driving force that led to the creation of that principality in 1345 (by Dragoş of Bedeu, former voevod of Maramureş), and its independence in 1359 (up to 3,000 families in strength, led by Bogdan of Cuhea, the voevod of Maramureș who previously led a 20-year-old campaign to avoid the Voevodat of Maramureș being turned and organized as a County (Comitatus), as King Louis of Anjou of Hungary strove for and eventually succeeded).

The Comitatus of Máramaros was formally established in the Kingdom of Hungary in 1303. In late 14th and early 15th century, count-voevod Drag of Bedeu, Dragoş' grandson, raise to eventually become one of the 10 peers of the Kingdom of Hungary that in 1386 enthroned Sigismund of Luxembourg as King, who in turn in not yet clear circumstances confiscated in 1404 all the estate of Drag and his family in Maramureș (over 50 villages), and forced them to resettle in a small estate in Szatmar. In 1391, Drag and his brother Balc were responsible for obtaining from the Patriarch of Constantinople raising of the New Rum Monastery of Saint Michael the Archangel of Peri (modern village of Grushevo in Northern Maramureș on the bank of the Tisza) to the rank of Stauropegic Bishopric, this being the first Romanian (non-rural) bishopric, with jurisdiction over eight nearby counties.

Since the 15th century, local nobility was largely assimilated within the Hungarian nobility, adopted Catholicism and Hungarian language. In 1526, after the collapse of the Kingdom of Hungary at the hands of the Ottoman Turks, Máramaros, along with the whole of modern Transcarpathia, was incorporated into the semi-independent Principality of Transylvania, which became a Habsburg domain in 1687, and at the in 1867 was included in the Hungarian part of Austria-Hungary.

The ethnic composition of Maramureș started to diversify already in the Middle Ages with the arrival of German colonists that founded or re-built five cities: Visc, Teceu, Câmpulung, Bocicoi, and Sighet. The adoption of Hungarian language and the Catholic faith in the 15th century (then a Protestant one in the 16th century) by the Transylvanian nobility created a linguistically and religiously distinct upper class which ruled the area. Since the 16th century, Ukrainian peasants moved from nearby Bereg and Ugocsa counties, and from Polish Galicia. The Ukrainization of some villages in Northern Maramureș was strengthened by the long jurisdictional disputes in 18th century between the Greek Catholic Bishopric of Muncach (Ukrainian) and Orthodox Bishopric of Peri (Romanian), later also with participation of Romanian Greek Catholics. In the 19th century the region was also settled by numerous Jews who arrived from Galicia. The Ukrainian population of Northern Maramureș is also diverse: Hutsuls in the east, Boiko in northwest, and Rusyn in the western part, in Tisza valley, the former two originating from Galicia, and the latter from Bereg and Ugocsa.

After the defeat of the Central Powers in World War I, the northern part of the comitatus (about 60% of the territory) became part of Carpathian Ruthenia within the newly formed Czechoslovakia. The southern part (40%, including the former capital Sighetu Marmaţiei) became part of Romania. This division was confirmed by the Treaty of Trianon in 1920.[8]

Northern Maramureș after the split edit

Just before World War II, the region was part of the briefly independent Carpatho-Ukraine in March 1939, but this republic, comprising the part of Carpathian Ruthenia not given to Hungary by the First Vienna Award a few months earlier, was almost immediately annexed by Horthyst Hungary, which in 1940 also annexed the Romanian part of Maramureș following the Second Vienna Award. After the war, in 1945 the formerly Czechoslovakian Maramureș was transferred to the Soviet Union, and in 1946 it was included in the Zakarpattia Oblast of the Ukrainian SSR. The latter after the dissolution of the Soviet Union became the independent Ukraine.

Historic monuments and heritage sites edit

 
The 1887 marker near Rakhiv claiming the location being the Geographical centre of Europe.

Churches, monasteries and sites edit

  • St. Michael the Archangel Monastery, Peri (1215), became the first Romanian bishopric on 13 August 1391, by the efforts of voivodes Drag and Balcu, grandsons of the famous voivode Dragoş, in the village of Peri (Grushevo), Tiachiv (Teceu) district (in the Romanian country)
  • Church of the Nativity (Steblivka) (1797) in the village of Steblivka, Khust district (in the Rusyn country)
  • St. Michael's Church (Crainicova) (1666–1668) in the village of Crainicova, Khust district (in the Rusyn country)
  • Church of the Holy Spirit (Colochava) (17th century) near the villages of Colochava and Horb, Mizhhirsky district (in the Rusyn country)
  • Church (1776) in the village of Apşa de Jos (Dibrova), Tiachiv (Teceu) district (in the Romanian country)
  • St. Nicholas Church (Seredny Vodany) (1428) in the village of Apsa de Mijloc (Seredny Vodany), Rahiv (Rahau) district (in the Romanian country)
  • Strukivska Church (1824) in the village of Yasinia, Rahiv district (in the Hutsul country)
  • Horian Rotunda, 12th-14th centuries (don't know where)
  • 1887 marker near Rakhiv claiming the location being the geographical centre of Europe

Feudal nobility edit

A considerable part of Maramureș's history was associated in past centuries with well-known feudal families of Europe. From the 14th to the 19th century:

  • Rozhoni (owners of the village of Dovhe/Dolha),
  • Pereni (owners of Sevljus and 117 villages in the nearby county of Ugocea/Ugocsa),
  • Dovhay (owners of Dovhe/Dolha, Soymy/Şoimi, Kyshnytsya/Cuşniţa, Volove, Siltse, Irshava, in all 20 villages in the nearby county of Bereg),
  • Dragoş (Drahush) (Ocna Slatina/Solotvyno), and 5 villages in later centuries, while in the time of the brothers Balcu (Balka) and Drag (Draha) they owned Korolevo/Craia (this town is in Ugocea), Khust/Hust, Tyachiv/Teceu, Iza, and 32 villages along the Tisza/Tysa/Tisa and Tereblya/Tereblea rivers (all these in Maramureș),
  • Urmezeyi (27 villages in Maramureș),
  • Bilkey-Iloshvay (24 villages in Maramureș),
  • Pohani (villages along the lower reaches of the rivers Tereblya/Tereblea and Teresva/Taras in Maramureș),
  • Hunyadi (Corvin) (32 villages and two towns in the nearby counties of Ugocea/Ugocsa and Bereg).

Other prominent feudal families of 16th-19th centuries were Karoli, Teleki, Toldi, Kornish, Stoyko, Fisher, Reyti, and Soplontsay.

People and traditions edit

The people of Maramureș are generally tougher and swifter, the sense of justice and honor is very keen for them. They have, and perhaps for good reasons, great pride in their specificity, and even in their toughness, since in few other places are ancient Romanian traditions preserved to such an extent. Their wooden churches are quite beautiful. Every village has its separate set of traditions, and every little valley has a name that begins with "The Country of ..." [citation needed].

See also edit

Notes edit

  1. ^ National composition of population; Zakarpattia region
  2. ^ The former are further subdivided into 6 towns, 20 town-type villages, 297 incorporated villages and 282 unincorporated villages.
  3. ^ Approximately 100 towns and villages)
  4. ^ Rusyns, who inhabited these regions from the 8th century, must not be confused historically and especially culturally with the Lemko, Boiko, and Hutsul peoples, who in the 16th century moved to the mountain-crest regions of Carpathian Ruthenia from Galicia, although they are confused in the Austria-Hungary censuses (and are identical linguistically). All these ethnic groups converged during the 19th century to form a new ethnicity, Ukrainians, although Rusyn emigrants (to the USA, the Americas, Yugoslavia, etc.) from before the establishment of the Ukrainian ethnicity generally retained the name Rusyns, or sometimes even Boiko, Lemko, and Hutsul.)
  5. ^ Romanians have constantly argued that considerable portions of their ethnicity after 1939 are being recorded as Moldovans.
  6. ^ Zakarpattia Oblast, Zakarpattya, Transcarpathian Oblast
  7. ^ . www.dacoromania1.go.ro. Archived from the original on 2 March 2005. Retrieved 12 January 2022.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
  8. ^ Marian Nicolae Tomi, Maramureşul istoric în date, Editura Grinta, Cluj-Napoca, 2005, ISBN 973-7924-83-5

References edit

External links edit

northern, maramureș, romanian, maramureșul, nord, maraˈmureʃul, ˈnord, hungarian, Észak, máramaros, ukrainian, Північна, Мараморщина, romanized, pivnichna, maramorshchyna, geographic, historical, region, comprising, roughly, eastern, half, zakarpattia, oblast,. Northern Maramureș Romanian Maramureșul de Nord maraˈmureʃul de ˈnord Hungarian Eszak Maramaros Ukrainian Pivnichna Maramorshina romanized Pivnichna Maramorshchyna is a geographic historical region comprising roughly the eastern half of the Zakarpattia Oblast in southwestern Ukraine near the border with Romania Until 1920 it was part of the Maramureș subregion of Transylvania at which time the former Maramaros County was divided into a northern part incorporated into Czechoslovakia the part which is now in Ukraine and a southern part incorporated into the Kingdom of Romania Northern Maramureș gold as part of the Zakarpattia Oblast of Ukraine with district boundaries shown From 1920 till 1939 the region belonged to Czechoslovakia then until 1944 to Hungary and then until 1991 to the Soviet Union Since 1991 Northern Maramureș has been part of Ukraine The Tisza River is part of the boundary separating Northern Maramureș from Romania The majority of the population are Ukrainians Rusyns Boykos and Hutsuls indigenous groups while a Romanian community totaling 32 100 according to the 2001 Ukraine census 1 lives compactly mostly in some eighteen localities in Rakhiv and Tiachiv raions districts close to the Romanian border For most of the 20th century communications between Southern and Northern Maramureș were severed After the collapse of Communist Regimes in Europe and through cooperation between the Romanian and Ukrainian governments the restoration of bridges across the Tisza has begun Contents 1 Geography and population 1 1 Geographic description 1 2 In present day Zakarpattia Oblast of Ukraine 1 3 In historical Maramureș 1 4 In Carpathian Ruthenia 1 5 Demographic data 1 6 Romanian localities in Northern Maramureș 2 History 2 1 Maramureș before the split 2 2 Northern Maramureș after the split 3 Historic monuments and heritage sites 3 1 Churches monasteries and sites 3 2 Feudal nobility 3 3 People and traditions 4 See also 5 Notes 6 References 7 External linksGeography and population editGeographic description edit Maramureș is an almost completely enclosed mountain valley with an area slightly smaller than that of the U S state of Connecticut The only way to enter the region besides crossing mountain slopes of 1 000 meters to 2 500 meters high is to follow the river Tisza upstream To a significant extent the geography of Maramureș has determined its history and distinctive traditions Northern Maramureș includes all of the right bank of the Tisza within the historical region and small mountain portions on the left bank Rivers that flow through the region include the Tisza Rika Rica and Tereblia Lake Sinevir is also located there In present day Zakarpattia Oblast of Ukraine edit The territory of the Zakarpattia Region of Ukraine is 12 880 km2 It has 1 287 400 inhabitants 1999 data Zakarpattia is divided into 13 districts and 5 cities 2 Of these Northern Maramureș roughly corresponds to 4 districts and one city Together these have an area of approximately 6 900 km2 and 445 000 inhabitants 3 the city of Khust Ukrainian Hust Romanian Hust with 35 500 inhabitants the Khust Raion Ukrainian Hust abbreviated below HU with 94 800 inhabitants different from the city the Mizhhiria Raion Ukrainian Mizhgir ya abbreviated below MY with 50 700 inhabitants the Tiachiv Raion Ukrainian Tyachiv Romanian Teceu abbreviated below TJ with 172 700 inhabitants the Rakhiv Raion Ukrainian Rahiv Romanian Rahău abbreviated below RA with 91 300 inhabitants The most important cities and towns of Northern Maramureș are the district and population are indicated Bushtyno Romanian Bustea Hungarian Bustyahaza TJ 8 300 Dubove Romanian Dambu Hungarian Dombo TJ 10 400 Jasinja Romanian Frăsini Hungarian Korosmezo RA 1 500 Kobylec ka Poljana Romanian Poiana Cobilei Hungarian Gyertyanliget RA 3 300 Mizhhir ja Romanian Boureni Hungarian Okormezo MY 10 200 Rachiv Romanian Rahău Hungarian Raho RA 17 000 Solotvyno Romanian Slatina Hungarian Aknaszlatina TJ 9 900 Teresva Romanian Taras Hungarian Tarackoz TJ 7 600 Tiachiv Romanian Teceu Hungarian Tecso TJ 11 300 Ust Chorna Romanian Gura Ciornei Hungarian Kiralymezo TJ 1 500 Velykyy Bychkiv Romanian Bocicoiu Mare Hungarian Nagybocsko RA 9 400 Vyshkovo Romanian Vășcova Hungarian Visk HU 8 100 see 1 The biggest villages in Northern Maramureș are Bedevlja Romanian Bedeu Hungarian Bedohaza Belin Romanian Bilin Hungarian Bilin Bila Tserkva Romanian Biserica Albă Hungarian Tiszafejeregyhaz Danylovo Romanian Danilovo Hungarian Husztsofalva Delovoe Romanian Trebuseni Hungarian Terebesfejerpatak Dibrova Romanian Apsa de Jos Hungarian Alsoapsa Dovghe Romanian Dolha Hungarian Dolha Drahovo Romanian Drăgoiesti Hungarian Kovesliget Dulovo Romanian Dulesti Hungarian Dulfalva Glibokiy Potik Romanian Stramtura Hungarian Szorospatak Gornichovo Romanian Hernicea Hungarian Herincse Grusevo Romanian Peri Hungarian Szentmihalykortvelyes Kaliny Romanian Călinestii de Jos Hungarian Alsokalinfalva Kolochava Romanian Călacea de Jos Hungarian Alsokalocsa Komsomoljsk Romanian Mocra Hungarian Nemetmokra Kushnica Romanian Cusniţa Hungarian Kusnyicza Negrovec Romanian Negrovăţ Hungarian Felsokalocsa Neresnica Romanian Neresniţa Hungarian Nyereshaza Nizhny Bistrzi Romanian Bistra de Jos Hungarian Alsobisztra Nizhny Selishte Romanian Săliste Hungarian Alsoszelistye Olshanj Romanian Vulsana Hungarian Egermezo Playuts Probably formerly Vilhovatij Romanian Plăiuţ Hungarian Kiscserjes Prislop Romanian Prislopu Mare Hungarian Pereszlo Sredne Vodyane Romanian Apsa de Mijloc Hungarian Kozepapsa Tereblja Romanian Talabor Hungarian Talaborfalu Topchino Romanian Topcina Hungarian Topcsino Uglia Romanian Uglea Hungarian Uglya Verhne Vodyane Romanian Apsa de Sus Hungarian Felsoapsa Vonjgovo Romanian Voinesti Hungarian Vajnag Zolotarovo Romanian Domnesti Hungarian Otvosfalva In historical Maramureș edit Northern Maramureș is historically and geographically close to southern Maramureș and together form the historical region of Maramureș Romanian Maramureș Hungarian Maramaros Between 1870 and 1918 Maramaros north and south was a county in the Transleitanian part of Austria Hungary It was divided into 10 rural districts Hungarian jaras Romanian plase and 1 urban district Hungarian rendezett tanacsu varos Romanian plasă urbană Northern Maramureș Southern Maramureș Sziget Sighet rural district Dolha Dolha Dovhe capital Dolha Dolha Dovhe Izavolgy Iza capital Dragomerfalva Dragomiresti Huszt Hust Khust capital Huszt Hust Khust Sugatag Sugatag capital Aknasugatag Ocna Sugatag Okormezo Boureni Mizhhir ya capital Okormezo Boureni Mizhhir ya Viso Viseu capital Felsoviso Viseu de Sus Taracviz Taras Teresva capital Tarackoz Taras Teresva Sziget Sighet urban district capital Maramarossziget Sighetu Marmaţiei Tecso Teceu Tiachiv capital Tecso Teceu Tiachiv Tiszavolgy Tisa Tissa capital Raho Rahău Rakhiv Note All names are written in the following order Hungarian Romanian Ukrainian nbsp Maramaros varmegye county in 1912 map in Hungarian Dolha Huszt Okormezo Taracviz Tecso and Tiszavolgy districts each had a Ukrainian majority with Tiszavolgy having a specifically Hutsul majority The rural Sziget district along with Izavolgy Sugatag and Viso districts each had a Romanian majority while the urban Sziget district was mixed Hungarian Romanian There was a significant Ukrainian minority in Viso and significant Romanian minorities in Huszt Taracviz Tecso and Tiszavolgy districts Viso also contained a significant German minority Zipser around the city of Felsoviso Romanian Vișeu de Sus German Oberwischau The six districts in the left hand column were apportioned to Czechoslovakia in 1920 In 1938 Hungary regained their southern portion by the terms of the First Vienna Award and then seized the rest in March 1939 In 1944 they went to the Soviet Union Since 1991 they have been part of Ukraine The four districts in the right hand column were given to Romania where they have remained ever since except for 1940 1944 when they were again in Hungary by the terms of the Second Vienna Award The rural Sziget Sighet district despite being ethnically homogeneously Romanian was divided the part north of the Tisza river followed the same fate as the Ukrainian districts while the part south of the Tisza the same as the Romanian ones More than half of the Romanian minority in the present Zakarpattia Oblast resides in what before 1920 was the rural Sziget district The total area of Maramureș county was 10 354 9 km2 of which 6 974 km2 became the northern part and 3 381 km2 became the southern part The approximately 160 localities were divided as follows slightly less than 100 joined the north and slightly more than 60 joined the south in 1920 the south had a population of approximately 155 000 A majority of the inhabitants were Romanian with Jewish Hungarian Ukrainian and German minorities The north at the same time had a population of about 220 000 including some 20 000 Romanians According to the 1910 Austrian census Maramaros County had a population which by language was Ruthenian 159 489 Romanian 84 510 German 59 552 Hungarian 52 964 A substantial part of the German and Hungarian speaking population were in fact Jews In Carpathian Ruthenia edit Carpathian Ruthenia i e the region inhabited by Rusyns Ruthenians in Austria Hungary spread over some two thirds of the historic counties of Ung Bereg and Ugocsa the remaining one third are respectively Slovak Hungarian and Romanian and from the 16th century also gradually over a part up to half of Maramureș county Therefore in texts dealing with the period after 1600 Northern Maramureș is sometimes included in historic Carpathian Ruthenia historic Ruszinszko or Pidkarpadska Rus as opposed to earlier texts when it is not 4 Demographic data edit nbsp Ethnic map of Zakarpattia Oblast in 2001 Ukrainians Hungarians Romanians mixed Ukrainians and Russians Census year Total population of Pidkarpadska Rus Zakarpattia Total population of the 4 raions and Khust Ukrainians Romanians official numbers 5 1880 408 971 16 713 1921 604 745 220 000 140 000 20 000 1930 734 315 1959 920 170 18 346 1970 1 056 000 23 454 1979 1 155 000 27 155 1989 1 245 000 29 485 2001 c 1 255 000 32 100 Romanian localities in Northern Maramureș edit In Northern Maramureș there are anywhere between ca 32 000 according to official Ukrainian sources ca 40 000 according to most Romanian sources to over 50 000 6 Romanians living today in a compact area of about 300 km2 in 17 villages and one town separated from Romania only by the river Tisza This compactly Romanian inhabited region which itself separates the Hutsul areas most of the Rakhiv raion district in the east from the rest of Zakarpattia corresponds exactly to the north Tisza part of the former rural district of Sighet in Maramaros County before 1920 see map These 18 localities with their quasi total Romanian population are population data from the 2001 Ukrainian census in Teceu Tiachiv district raion the town of Ocna Slatina Ukrainian Solotvyno Hungarian Aknaszlatina a new village first mentioned ca 1360 the old one was burned down by the Tatars in 1241 9 700 inhabitants and 2 200 households Apsa de Jos Ukrainian Dibrova Hungarian Alsoapsa first mentioned in 1387 includes Valea Malului 8 339 inhabitants and 2 300 households Stramtura Ukrainian Glibokiy Potik Hungarian Szurdok 5 743 inhabitants 1 398 households Tetes Ukrainian Topchino Hungarian Topcsino 2 240 inhabitants 610 households Peri Ukrainian Grusevo Hungarian Szentmihalykortvelies i e St Michael Monastery first mentioned ca 1200 Podișor Ukrainian Podishor Bescău Cărbunesti Bouţul Mare Bouţul Mic in Rahău Rakhiv district raion Biserica Albă Ukrainian Belaia Ţercovi Hungarian Tiszafejeregyhaz 1373 Apsa de Mijloc Ukrainian Sredne Vodyane Hungarian Kosepapsa 1406 Apsa de Sus Ukrainian Verhne Vodyane Hungarian Felsoapsa Apsiţa Veche Ukrainian Voditsa Hungarian Kisapsa Dobric Ukrainian Dobrik Hungarian Dobrikdulo Plăiuţ Ukrainian Playuts Hungarian Plajuc Stramba Ukrainian Strimba Hungarian Almaspatak Paladi Some Romanians also live in localities of Northern Maramureș outside the above compact area the town of Taras Teresva the village of Bedeu Bedevlya the city of Teceu Tiachiv the town of Bustina Bushtino the village of Visc Vishkove the town of Bocicoiu Mare Velykyy Bychkiv the city of Hust Khust although far fewer than in previous centuries Note There are also Romanians in the two major Zakarpattian cities Uzhhorod and Mukachevo as well as in the town of Korolevo Romanian Craia in Vinogradovo raion which are not in Maramureș but respectively in Ung Bereg and Ugocsa There are also two other Romanian villages Poroshkovo Romanian Poroșcovo Hungarian Porosko Perechyn Raion near Munţii Pădurosi 45 km NE of Ujgorod 3000 inhabitants and Myrcha Romanian Mircea Velykyi Berezin raion 35 km N of Ujgorod 1500 inhabitants The two villages are 40 km one from the other in the northwest of Zakarpattia which is not part of Northern Maramureș but of the former Ung County They are the last remnants of the Vlachs Romanians who inhabited present day Hungary and Zakarpattia before the arrival of the Slavs 6th 8th centuries and Hungarians 9th century when they were isolated and afterwards assimilated Their Ukrainian neighbors also call the inhabitants of these two villages volokhi or loshkarini Slavic names for Romanians no longer in current use 7 History editMaramureș before the split edit Main article History of Maramureș In the Middle Ages Maramureș had a Romanian population organized into the Voivodeship of Maramureș with a voevod elected from among the village noblemen Romanian knezi The majority of the peasants in the region were free and went by a regional term specific only to Maramures nămesi from neam clan and only a minority were serfs first serfs mentioned in documents in 1405 In the more mountainous villages and hamlets the main dwelling was raising sheep which implied constant moving in search of new pastures to accommodate raising stocks As a consequence between 10th and 13th centuries modern mountainous regions of eastern and central Slovakia saw a migration of Vlach Romanian shepherds from Maramures eventually assimilated Another similar migration occurred in the 14th century with destination the mountainous southeasternmost corner of modern Poland The new migrants were given special rights known as Jus Valahicum and a century later serious local feuds occurred when these rights were abolished and the Vlachs were assimilated A significant portion of the heritage of Gorals comes from the assimilated Vlachs Other migrants who advanced along the Carpathian range between the 14th and 17th centuries became known as Moravian Vlachs On their way they gradually lost their original language with the exception of some Romanian words they use in their Czech and Slovak dialect but they preserved much of their culture especially folklore songs and costumes and economic base namely sheep breeding In 1644 during the Thirty Years War they were crushed by Albrecht von Wallenstein In the 14th century several groups of Maramureș noblemen with their warriors Romanian viteji established themselves in modern northern Moldavia and were the driving force that led to the creation of that principality in 1345 by Dragos of Bedeu former voevod of Maramures and its independence in 1359 up to 3 000 families in strength led by Bogdan of Cuhea the voevod of Maramureș who previously led a 20 year old campaign to avoid the Voevodat of Maramureș being turned and organized as a County Comitatus as King Louis of Anjou of Hungary strove for and eventually succeeded The Comitatus of Maramaros was formally established in the Kingdom of Hungary in 1303 In late 14th and early 15th century count voevod Drag of Bedeu Dragos grandson raise to eventually become one of the 10 peers of the Kingdom of Hungary that in 1386 enthroned Sigismund of Luxembourg as King who in turn in not yet clear circumstances confiscated in 1404 all the estate of Drag and his family in Maramureș over 50 villages and forced them to resettle in a small estate in Szatmar In 1391 Drag and his brother Balc were responsible for obtaining from the Patriarch of Constantinople raising of the New Rum Monastery of Saint Michael the Archangel of Peri modern village of Grushevo in Northern Maramureș on the bank of the Tisza to the rank of Stauropegic Bishopric this being the first Romanian non rural bishopric with jurisdiction over eight nearby counties Since the 15th century local nobility was largely assimilated within the Hungarian nobility adopted Catholicism and Hungarian language In 1526 after the collapse of the Kingdom of Hungary at the hands of the Ottoman Turks Maramaros along with the whole of modern Transcarpathia was incorporated into the semi independent Principality of Transylvania which became a Habsburg domain in 1687 and at the in 1867 was included in the Hungarian part of Austria Hungary The ethnic composition of Maramureș started to diversify already in the Middle Ages with the arrival of German colonists that founded or re built five cities Visc Teceu Campulung Bocicoi and Sighet The adoption of Hungarian language and the Catholic faith in the 15th century then a Protestant one in the 16th century by the Transylvanian nobility created a linguistically and religiously distinct upper class which ruled the area Since the 16th century Ukrainian peasants moved from nearby Bereg and Ugocsa counties and from Polish Galicia The Ukrainization of some villages in Northern Maramureș was strengthened by the long jurisdictional disputes in 18th century between the Greek Catholic Bishopric of Muncach Ukrainian and Orthodox Bishopric of Peri Romanian later also with participation of Romanian Greek Catholics In the 19th century the region was also settled by numerous Jews who arrived from Galicia The Ukrainian population of Northern Maramureș is also diverse Hutsuls in the east Boiko in northwest and Rusyn in the western part in Tisza valley the former two originating from Galicia and the latter from Bereg and Ugocsa After the defeat of the Central Powers in World War I the northern part of the comitatus about 60 of the territory became part of Carpathian Ruthenia within the newly formed Czechoslovakia The southern part 40 including the former capital Sighetu Marmaţiei became part of Romania This division was confirmed by the Treaty of Trianon in 1920 8 Northern Maramureș after the split edit Just before World War II the region was part of the briefly independent Carpatho Ukraine in March 1939 but this republic comprising the part of Carpathian Ruthenia not given to Hungary by the First Vienna Award a few months earlier was almost immediately annexed by Horthyst Hungary which in 1940 also annexed the Romanian part of Maramureș following the Second Vienna Award After the war in 1945 the formerly Czechoslovakian Maramureș was transferred to the Soviet Union and in 1946 it was included in the Zakarpattia Oblast of the Ukrainian SSR The latter after the dissolution of the Soviet Union became the independent Ukraine Historic monuments and heritage sites edit nbsp The 1887 marker near Rakhiv claiming the location being the Geographical centre of Europe Churches monasteries and sites edit St Michael the Archangel Monastery Peri 1215 became the first Romanian bishopric on 13 August 1391 by the efforts of voivodes Drag and Balcu grandsons of the famous voivode Dragos in the village of Peri Grushevo Tiachiv Teceu district in the Romanian country Church of the Nativity Steblivka 1797 in the village of Steblivka Khust district in the Rusyn country St Michael s Church Crainicova 1666 1668 in the village of Crainicova Khust district in the Rusyn country Church of the Holy Spirit Colochava 17th century near the villages of Colochava and Horb Mizhhirsky district in the Rusyn country Church 1776 in the village of Apsa de Jos Dibrova Tiachiv Teceu district in the Romanian country St Nicholas Church Seredny Vodany 1428 in the village of Apsa de Mijloc Seredny Vodany Rahiv Rahau district in the Romanian country Strukivska Church 1824 in the village of Yasinia Rahiv district in the Hutsul country Horian Rotunda 12th 14th centuries don t know where 1887 marker near Rakhiv claiming the location being the geographical centre of Europe Feudal nobility edit A considerable part of Maramureș s history was associated in past centuries with well known feudal families of Europe From the 14th to the 19th century Rozhoni owners of the village of Dovhe Dolha Pereni owners of Sevljus and 117 villages in the nearby county of Ugocea Ugocsa Dovhay owners of Dovhe Dolha Soymy Soimi Kyshnytsya Cusniţa Volove Siltse Irshava in all 20 villages in the nearby county of Bereg Dragos Drahush Ocna Slatina Solotvyno and 5 villages in later centuries while in the time of the brothers Balcu Balka and Drag Draha they owned Korolevo Craia this town is in Ugocea Khust Hust Tyachiv Teceu Iza and 32 villages along the Tisza Tysa Tisa and Tereblya Tereblea rivers all these in Maramureș Urmezeyi 27 villages in Maramureș Bilkey Iloshvay 24 villages in Maramureș Pohani villages along the lower reaches of the rivers Tereblya Tereblea and Teresva Taras in Maramureș Hunyadi Corvin 32 villages and two towns in the nearby counties of Ugocea Ugocsa and Bereg Other prominent feudal families of 16th 19th centuries were Karoli Teleki Toldi Kornish Stoyko Fisher Reyti and Soplontsay People and traditions edit This section needs expansion You can help by adding to it December 2008 The people of Maramureș are generally tougher and swifter the sense of justice and honor is very keen for them They have and perhaps for good reasons great pride in their specificity and even in their toughness since in few other places are ancient Romanian traditions preserved to such an extent Their wooden churches are quite beautiful Every village has its separate set of traditions and every little valley has a name that begins with The Country of citation needed See also editZakarpattia OblastNotes edit National composition of population Zakarpattia region The former are further subdivided into 6 towns 20 town type villages 297 incorporated villages and 282 unincorporated villages Approximately 100 towns and villages Rusyns who inhabited these regions from the 8th century must not be confused historically and especially culturally with the Lemko Boiko and Hutsul peoples who in the 16th century moved to the mountain crest regions of Carpathian Ruthenia from Galicia although they are confused in the Austria Hungary censuses and are identical linguistically All these ethnic groups converged during the 19th century to form a new ethnicity Ukrainians although Rusyn emigrants to the USA the Americas Yugoslavia etc from before the establishment of the Ukrainian ethnicity generally retained the name Rusyns or sometimes even Boiko Lemko and Hutsul Romanians have constantly argued that considerable portions of their ethnicity after 1939 are being recorded as Moldovans Zakarpattia Oblast Zakarpattya Transcarpathian Oblast Archived copy www dacoromania1 go ro Archived from the original on 2 March 2005 Retrieved 12 January 2022 a href Template Cite web html title Template Cite web cite web a CS1 maint archived copy as title link Marian Nicolae Tomi Maramuresul istoric in date Editura Grinta Cluj Napoca 2005 ISBN 973 7924 83 5References edithttps web archive org web 20040111150911 http www sapanta ro in Romanian https web archive org web 20070209122901 http www sighet ro istorie htm https web archive org web 20070222073656 http all zakarpattya net index html Alexandru Filipascu Istoria Maramuresului 1940 Le Maramoures 1943 Dr Mircea Dogaru Romanii Sacrificiilor istorice Gardianul 26 October 2004 available online Romanian Global News news agency Clubul Maramuresenilor din dreapta Tisei Transcarpaţia Ucraina clubmaramu yahoo com 5 December 2004 https www fotw info flags ua cu39 html http www crwflags com fotw flags ua zk html obl in Romanian https web archive org web 20070206090355 http crestinism ortodox ro html 10 10d sfantul iosif marturisitorul html in Romanian https web archive org web 20060821062920 http www bru ro istorie catort asp id cap10 http www thomasgraz net glass map ethn htm http www thomasgraz net glass map popov htm https www fotw info flags ua cu39 html http www crwflags com fotw flags ua zk html obl in Romanian George Coman Biserica singura scoala de limba romana din Transcarpatia Ziua 24 May 2005 in Romanian Romanii de langă noi Romanii din Transcarpatia Totul despre romanii din maramuresul de nord External links edit in Romanian Marian Nicolae Tomi Maramuresul istoric in date Cluj Napoca 2005 http zakarpattia net in Ukrainian A zoomable map Tracing a Sacred Building Tradition permanent dead link Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Northern Maramureș amp oldid 1217544447, wikipedia, 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