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Guaitecas Archipelago

Guaitecas Archipelago is a sparsely populated archipelago in the Aisén region of Chile. The archipelago is made up of eight main islands and numerous smaller ones. The eight largest islands are from northwest to southeast: Gran Guaiteca, Ascención, Betecoy, Clotilde, Leucayec, Elvira, Sánchez and Mulchey.[1] The islands have subdued topography compared to the Andes, with Gran Guaiteca containing the archipelago's high point at 369 m (1,211 ft).[1]

Guaitecas Archipelago
Native name:
Archipiélago de las Guaitecas
Guaitecas Archipelago is marked with light blue, Chonos Archipelago with dark blue and Chiloé Archipelago is marked with red.
Geography
Coordinates43°55′17″S 73°49′33″W / 43.921322°S 73.825841°W / -43.921322; -73.825841Coordinates: 43°55′17″S 73°49′33″W / 43.921322°S 73.825841°W / -43.921322; -73.825841
Adjacent toOpen Pacific Ocean, Gulf of Corcovado, Moraleda Channel, Tuamapu Channel, Paso del Chacao
Major islandsGran Guaiteca, Ascención, Betecoy, Clotilde, Leucayec, Elvira, Sánchez, Mulchey
Highest elevation369 m (1211 ft)
Administration
RegionAisén
ProvinceAisén
CommuneGuaitecas
Demographics
Population1,843 (2017)
Ethnic groupsChileans, including Chilote-Huilliches. Formerly: Chonos
Additional information
NGA UFI=-877176

The main settlement in the archipelago is Melinka, a port town with an economy revolving around fishing and salmon aquaculture. Most islands are forested, rocky with recurrent peat bogs. The archipelago waters are renowned for their rich whale and dolphin fauna. The climate is cool, rainy and oceanic. Historically the islands were inhabited by semi-nomad and seafaring Chonos and lay beyond the southernmost outposts of the Spanish Empire. In the second half of the 19th century, the islands became permanently settled as consequence of a wood logging boom centered on Ciprés de las Guaitecas (Pilgerodendron uviferum), a tree named after the archipelago. Culturally the northwestern part of the archipelago is similar to Chiloé Archipelago.[2]

Climate and vegetation

Islas Guaitecas
Climate chart (explanation)
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Average max. and min. temperatures in °C
Precipitation totals in mm
Source: [3]
Imperial conversion
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Average max. and min. temperatures in °F
Precipitation totals in inches

The archipelago has a rainy and cool maritime temperate climate.[4] Mean annual precipitation at Melinka is of 3,173 mm (124.9 in).[4] Mean annual temperature is about 7–9 °C (44.6–48.2 °F).[4] From September to December high tides in combination with storms produce large waves that wash over land depositing sand and gravel onshore.[5]

The main vegetation assemblage of the islands is the Bosque Siempreverde con Turberas de los Chonos (lit. "Chonos Evergreen Forest with Bogs") with the characteristic tree Pilgerodendron uviferum.[4] Other trees in these forests are Nothofagus nitida (coigüe de Chiloé), Metrosideros stipularis (tepú) and Weinmannia trichosperma (tineo).[6] In the ground of the more-less open Pilgerodendron forest cushion plants such as Astelia pumila, Donatia fascicularis and Oreobolus obtusangulus grow.[7] In the western fringes of the archipelago the vegetation is made up of a c. 2-meter (6.6 ft) high shrubland of Pilgerondendron and Nothofagus nitida. Amidst this shrubland, occasional peatlands and forest exists.[8]

Vegetation type changes from the shore towards the island's interior parts. Next to the sea, herbs and occasional wild potatoes grow. This is a zone of regular disturbance that is affected by winter storms.[5] The wild potatoes that grow in the archipelago are mostly found in its western part. Apparently these potatoes do not reproduce by seeds and rarely produce flowers and fruits.[5] Slightly inland from the herbaceous zone follows a belt of brushy thickets. This belt is followed by coastline forest that further away from the coasts gives way to a proper inland forest, which may contain peat bogs.[5]

The archipelago contains 431 —or 2.8%— of Aysén Region's 15,240 ha of Sphagnum bogs.[9]

Wildlife

A variety of whales and dolphins have been spotted in the archipelago waters including: Peale's dolphins, black dolphins, bottlenose dolphins, humpback whales, minke whales and killer whales.[10][11] The Gulf of Corcovado to the north of the archipelago is "arguably the largest feeding and nursing ground for blue whales [...] in the entire Southern Hemisphere".[10] All of this makes Guaitecas Archipelago a privileged place for whale watching.[10]

Geology

The bedrock of the archipelago is varied. In the northwest it is made of metamorphic rock,[1] with rocks such as phyllite, metacherts and greenschist.[1] In the southeast granitoids, lavas and brecciated lavas make most of the bedrock.[1]

The archipelago bears various marks of erosion from the glaciers that repeatedly covered the area during the last 2 million years.[12] Among these marks are the numerous skerries of rôche moutonnées that surround the main islands.[12] Various channels between the islands are fjords shaped by glaciers and moraines in the archipelago are mostly to be found underwater.[13]

A study based on archaeological sites shows an overall trend of uplift in the archipelago during the Holocene Epoch. The archipelago has been uplifted at rates of 0.57 m/ka to 5.42 m/ka during the Holocene.[14]

The archipelago was affected by earthquakes in 1575, 1737, 1837, 1960 and 2016.[14][15] The 1960 earthquake caused some subsidence in the archipelago.[14]

History

Prehistory

Radiocarbon dating of a shell midden in Gran Guaiteca has yielded an age of about 5,100 years B.P. making this a minimum age for human presence in the archipelago.[16] Lithic artifacts found in the archipelago are usually made of basalt or andesite rock.[17] In Pre-Hispanic and colonial times the archipelago was inhabited by Chonos, who lived as hunter-gatherers traveling by canoe.[14][A] The Chono used the many caves found in the archipelago as cemeteries,[19] where remains were preserved as mummies.[20]

The islands made up the southern limit of Pre-Hispanic agriculture[21] as noted by the mention of the cultivation of potatoes by a Spanish expedition in 1557.[5][B][C]

Colonial Era

The Spanish, who had settled in Chiloé Archipelago since 1567 launched from there numerous southward expeditions over the next two and half centuries.[D] These explorations were driven by religious motives in the case of Jesuits and by rumours about settlements made by rival colonial powers as well the search for the mythical City of the Caesars.[22] In 1662 Jesuit missionary Nicolás Mascardi visited Guaitecas Archipelago constructing a rudimentary church on the islands.[22] In the 1670s the islands were briefly visited by the expeditions of Bartolomé Gallardo and Antonio de Vea. However, efter this last expedition interest in the area by Spanish religious and military authorities waned until the 1740s.[24]

Jesuit Mateo Esteban who visited the islands in the 17th century estimated its population at 170 individuals, 120 of which he managed to gather in a meeting.[25] Following the crushing of the Huilliche rebellion of 1712 in Chiloé a small group of Huilliches went into hiding in Guaitecas Archipelago to avoid harsh Spanish reprimands.[26]

As result of a corsair and pirate menace, Spanish authorities ordered the depopulation of the archipelago to deprive enemies of eventual support from native populations.[27][E] This led to the transfer of Chono population to Chiloé Archipelago in the north while other Chonos moved south of Taitao Peninsula effectively depopulating the territory.[27][23] After this relations between remaining Chonos south of Guaitecas Archipelago and Spaniards and the inhabitants of Chiloé remained hostile up to the 19th century as attested by Enrique Simpson.[23]

18th and early 19th centuries: "Emptyness"

Following the decline of the Chono populations in the archipelago in the 18th century, the area gained a reputation of "emptyness" among Chileans akin to the description of eastern Patagonia as a "desert."[29] However, the islands were often visited and traversed in the 19th century by fishermen, lumberjacks, and hunters from Chiloé.[29] In 1834 during the second voyage of HMS Beagle Robert FitzRoy mapped the archipelago. FitzRoy noted that Puerto Low in the archieplago was permanently inhabited by people from Chiloé, which he did not identify as indigenous.[29] Explorations sanctioned by the Chilean state begun with navy officer Francisco Hudson in 1857,[30] Hudson and German settler Franz Fonck made explorations in Guaitecas Archipelago those years.[31] With Hudson's death in 1859 Francisco Vidal Gormaz continued the explorations, a duty that Enrique Simpson assumed in the 1870s.[30][32]

Simpson mapped Guaitecas Archipelago onboard of the corvette Chacabuco in the 1870s.[31] He found FitzRoy's mapping of the northern part of the archipelago fine writing in 1870 that "Fitzroy's chart, that is quite exact until that point [Melinka 43°53' S], is worthless further ahead...". Thus, south of Melinka Simpson relied more in the late 18th century sketches of José de Moraleda y Montero.[33]

Navy hydrographer Francisco Vidal Gormaz explored and charted the islands in the second half of the 19th century becoming critical of the work of Robert FitzRoy and Charles Darwin whom according to him had failed acknowledge the importance of the Patagonian islands.[29] It is however clear that many of the explored areas were already known to the inhabitants of southern Chiloé who visited these areas for wood, fish or hunting.[31][29]

Pilgerodendron Era

 
Pilgerodendron uviferum was exploited in the 19th and 20th centuries for its highly valued wood.

Felipe Westhoff, a German-Lithuanian immigrant who operated a Pilgerodendron uviferum logging business from Ancud, founded Melinka in 1860.[34][35] This was the first permanent settlement in the archipelago.[34] Chilean authorities granted Westhoff exclusive rights on Pilgerodendron extraction in the archipelago and bestowed him the title of subdelegado marítimo which gave him some duties and authority over the archipelago, in reality it meant little since he did not have the means to enforce the law or his rights.[34] When Westhoff's time spent in the archipelago diminished in the early 1870s the title of subdelegado marítimo passed to his associate Enrique Lagrèze.[34][36] After Westhoff's retirement in the 1870s Ciriaco Álvarez rose to prominence as the foremost Pilgerodendron businessman.[35] The chief export products of Álvarez were poles and vine training stacks that went to northern Chile and Peru.[4][29][37] Álvarez business owned him the nickname of "The King of Pilgerodendron" (Spanish: El Rey del Ciprés)[35] and had great effects on the incipient economic development that came to link the archipelagoes of Chiloé, Guaitecas and Chonos.[29]

Ever since the Pilgerodendron Era the archipelago and the other islands of Patagonia have had a reputation of lawlessness.[38] Felipe Westhoff wrote:[38][20]

...Such amount of people have led to violence, abuses, murder and other crimes, which local authorities have not been able to avert due to lack of armed forces at their disposal (...) That amount of peons, not bound, it can be said, godless and lawless, and without anything that hinder them to carry out their caprices or misdeeds
 
Marine otter was once hunted for its fur by people based in Melinka.

One of the most famous of the early outlaws was Pedro Ñancúpel a pirate who was captured in Melinka in 1886 and bought into justice in Ancud the same year.[38][39]

19th century inhabitants of Melinka were engaged in fur trade.[40] Fur was obtained from southern river otter[citation needed] and marine otter. Hunting was made with the aid of dogs. These hunters travelled often south beyond Taitao Peninsula to obtain furs.[40]

Demography and economy

 
Local carpenter Octavio Chiguay building a boat in Melinka.

The main settlement in the archipelago is Melinka on Ascención Island, with 1,411 inhabitants as of 2002. As of 2017 the archipelago had a population of 1,843 inhabitants, a rise of almost 20 percent since the 2002 census.[41] Since 2016, the settlements of Melinka and Repollal have electricity 24 hours per day.[42] Much of the population of Guaitecas Archipelago is of Chilote-Huilliche background.[43]

Since the 1980s, the extraction of sea urchins and locos have featured prominently in the economy.[43] In 1985 the discovery of merluza fishing grounds in Moraleda Channel sparkled a fishing boom.[2][43] This boom had greater impact on more eastwards locations and in Guaitecas Archipelago the inhabitants continued to focus on benthic resources,[43] a tradition shared with Chiloé Archipelago.[2] In the 1990s, salmon aquaculture became an important economic activity leading to leading salmon aquaculture companies to establish facilities in Melinka using the town as operative base.[43][2]

Tourism

On February 3 and 4, a "feria costumbrista" is held at Repollal Alto in Ascención Island.[44]

Fishermen in Melinka offer combined tours of bird watching and whale watching through the archipelago.[10]

Notes

  1. ^ A speculative theory proposed by Ricardo E. Latcham holds that Chono arrived to the Guaitecas Archipelago from Chiloé Archipelago after these were invaded by Huilliche from the mainland in the 13th century.[18]
  2. ^ Later in 1834, during the second voyage of HMS Beagle, Charles Darwin collected potatoes from Guaitecas.[5]
  3. ^ The presence of maize in Guaitecas Archipelago is also mentioned by early Spanish explorers, albeit they may have misidentified the plant.[4]
  4. ^ Spanish authorities organized expeditions in 1578 and 1620, this last expedition reached San Rafael Lake. New southward expeditions followed in 1639, 1641, 1656–60, 1674 and 1675–6. Jesuits based in Chiloé Archipelago visited the islands south of Chiloé in 1609 and in 1613 for the first time they reached Guayaneco Archipelago.[22] More jesuit expeditions followed in 1617, 1622, 1656, 1660, 1662 (Nicolás Mascardi), 1670, 1763, 1766–7 and 1767. As the Jesuits were suppressed Franciscans continued the expeditions in 1778, 1778–79, 1779-80.[22][23]
  5. ^ In the aftermath of the wreck of HMS Wager in 1739 Marquis of the Ensenada briefly considered the establishment of a Spanish fort in Guaitecas Archieplago to guard against British incursions.[28]

References

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  2. ^ a b c d Saavedra Gallo, Gonzalo (2011). "Tensiones modernizantes y condicionantes culturales del desarrollo en el borde costero del Sur Austral chileno" [Modernizing tensions and cultural conditioners of development in the south austral Chilean coastal seaboard]. Revista Lider (in Spanish). 19: 201–219.
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  5. ^ a b c d e f Contreras, Andrés; Ciampi, Luigi; Padulosi, Stefano; Spooner, David M. (1993). "Potato germplasm collecting expedition to the Guaitecas and Chonos Archipelagos, Chile, 1990". Potato Research. 36 (4): 309–316. doi:10.1007/bf02361797. S2CID 6759459.
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  17. ^ Cárdenas et al. 1991, p. 111
  18. ^ Cárdenas et al. 1991, p. 34
  19. ^ Cárdenas et al. 1991, p. 123
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  23. ^ a b c Caballero, Vásquez; Felipe, Ricardo. "Aau, el secreto de los chono" (PDF). Retrieved January 24, 2019. {{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)
  24. ^ Urbina Carrasco, María Ximena (2010). "La navegación por los canales australes en la Patagonia Occidental insular en los siglos coloniales: La ruta del istmo de Ofqui" [Navigation on the Austral channels in the islands of Western Patagonia during colonial centuries: The route of the isthmus of Ofqui]. Magallania (in Spanish). 38 (2): 41–67. doi:10.4067/S0718-22442010000200003. Retrieved December 21, 2019.
  25. ^ Urbina Burgos, Rodolfo (2007). "El pueblo chono: de vagabundo y pagano a cristiano y sedentario mestizado" (PDF). Orbis incognitvs: avisos y legados del Nuevo Mundo (in Spanish). Huelva: Universidad de Huelva. pp. 325–346. ISBN 9788496826243.
  26. ^ Trivero Rivera, Alberto (2007). La virgen de los Poyas: ¿Desde Nahuelhuapí hasta Achao? (in Spanish). pp. 1–28.
  27. ^ a b Ibar Bruce, Jorge (1960). "Ensayo sobre los indios Chonos e interpretación de sus toponimías". Anales de la Universidad de Chile (in Spanish). 117: 61–70.
  28. ^ Urbina Carrasco, María Ximena (2014). "El frustrado fuerte de Tenquehuen en el archipiélago de los Chonos, 1750: Dimensión chilota de un conflicto hispano-británico". Historia. 47 (I). Retrieved 28 January 2016.
  29. ^ a b c d e f g Núñez, Andrés G.; Molina O., Raúl; Aliste A., Enrique; Bello A., Álvaro (2016). "Silencios geográficos de Patagonia-Aysén: Territorio, nomadismo y perspectivas para re-pensar los margenes de la nación en el siglo XIX" [Geographical silences in Patagonia-Aysén: Territory, nomadism and perspectives for re-thinking the margins of Chile in the nineteenth century]. Magallania (in Spanish). 44 (2): 107–130. doi:10.4067/S0718-22442016000200006. Retrieved December 10, 2018.
  30. ^ a b Exploradores y colonos en Aysén (1870-1927)
  31. ^ a b c Bello Maldonado, Álvaro (2017). "Exploración, conocimiento geográfico y nación: La "creación" de la Patagonia Occidental y Aysén a fines del siglo XIX" (PDF). In Núñez, Andrés; Aliste, Enrique; Bello Maldonado, Álvaro; Osorio, Mauricio (eds.). Imaginarios geográficos, prácticas y discursos de frontera: Aisén-Patagonia desde el texto de la nación. GEOlibros (in Spanish). Impresión Gráfica LOM. pp. 61–86. ISBN 978-956-14-2064-9.
  32. ^ Sepúlveda Ortíz, Jorge (1998), (PDF), Revista de Marina (in Spanish): 1–20, archived from the original (PDF) on 2019-01-23, retrieved 2019-01-23
  33. ^ Simpson, E. (1874). Esploraciones hechas por la Corbeta Chacabuco al mando del capitán de fragata don Enrique M. Simpson en los Archipiélagos de Guaitecas, Chonos i Taitao. Santiago. Imprenta Nacional.
  34. ^ a b c d Morales B., Diego (2014). "El negocio de la madera: comerciantes y "hacheros" de Chiloé, 1850-1875" [Timber business: woodcutters and merchants of Chiloé, 1850-1875]. Magallania (in Spanish). 42 (2): 41–60. doi:10.4067/S0718-22442014000200003. Retrieved January 10, 2019.
  35. ^ a b c "¿Quién era Felipe Westhoff Rodhius?". eldivisadero.cl (in Spanish). Diario El Divisadero. July 28, 2012. Retrieved January 10, 2019.
  36. ^ Cavada, F. (1914). Chiloé y los chilotes (in Spanish). Santiago: Imprenta Universitaria.
  37. ^ Otero, Luis (2006). La huella del fuego: Historia de los bosques nativos. Poblamiento y cambios en el paisaje del sur de Chile (in Spanish). Pehuén Editores. ISBN 956-16-0409-4.
  38. ^ a b c Marín Lleucún, Alejandro (2015). "Puerto Gala y Puerto Gaviota (1985-1993): Una mirada desde el triángulo de la violencia" [Port of Gala and Port of Gaviota (1985-1993): A look from the triangle of violence]. Magallania (in Spanish). 43 (2). Retrieved January 10, 2019.
  39. ^ Cárdenas Álvarez, Renato (January 17, 2005). "La historia del pirata chilote Pedro Ñancúpel" (in Spanish). El Llanquihue. Retrieved January 10, 2019. Cuando es capturado en Melinka ya era una leyenda porque había evadido la persecución.
  40. ^ a b Álvarez A., Ricardo; Navarro P., Magdalena; Saavedra G., Gonzalo; Donoso C., Cristián (2015). "Referencias exploratorias sobre el lago Presidente Ríos, para sortear el Istmo de Ofqui, Península de Taitao, Región de Aysén" [Exploratory references on Presidente Ríos lake, for routes round the Ofqui Isthmus, Taitao Peninsula, Aysén Region, Chile]. Magallania (in Spanish). 43 (1): 91–101. doi:10.4067/S0718-22442015000100006. Retrieved December 21, 2019.
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Bibliography

External links

  • Islands of Chile @ United Nations Environment Programme
  • World island information @ WorldIslandInfo.com
  • South America Island High Points above 1000 meters
  • Amateur Radio Expedition XR7T
  • United States Hydrographic Office, South America Pilot (1916)

guaitecas, archipelago, sparsely, populated, archipelago, aisén, region, chile, archipelago, made, eight, main, islands, numerous, smaller, ones, eight, largest, islands, from, northwest, southeast, gran, guaiteca, ascención, betecoy, clotilde, leucayec, elvir. Guaitecas Archipelago is a sparsely populated archipelago in the Aisen region of Chile The archipelago is made up of eight main islands and numerous smaller ones The eight largest islands are from northwest to southeast Gran Guaiteca Ascencion Betecoy Clotilde Leucayec Elvira Sanchez and Mulchey 1 The islands have subdued topography compared to the Andes with Gran Guaiteca containing the archipelago s high point at 369 m 1 211 ft 1 Guaitecas ArchipelagoNative name Archipielago de las GuaitecasGuaitecas Archipelago is marked with light blue Chonos Archipelago with dark blue and Chiloe Archipelago is marked with red GeographyCoordinates43 55 17 S 73 49 33 W 43 921322 S 73 825841 W 43 921322 73 825841 Coordinates 43 55 17 S 73 49 33 W 43 921322 S 73 825841 W 43 921322 73 825841Adjacent toOpen Pacific Ocean Gulf of Corcovado Moraleda Channel Tuamapu Channel Paso del ChacaoMajor islandsGran Guaiteca Ascencion Betecoy Clotilde Leucayec Elvira Sanchez MulcheyHighest elevation369 m 1211 ft AdministrationChileRegionAisenProvinceAisenCommuneGuaitecasDemographicsPopulation1 843 2017 Ethnic groupsChileans including Chilote Huilliches Formerly ChonosAdditional informationNGA UFI 877176The main settlement in the archipelago is Melinka a port town with an economy revolving around fishing and salmon aquaculture Most islands are forested rocky with recurrent peat bogs The archipelago waters are renowned for their rich whale and dolphin fauna The climate is cool rainy and oceanic Historically the islands were inhabited by semi nomad and seafaring Chonos and lay beyond the southernmost outposts of the Spanish Empire In the second half of the 19th century the islands became permanently settled as consequence of a wood logging boom centered on Cipres de las Guaitecas Pilgerodendron uviferum a tree named after the archipelago Culturally the northwestern part of the archipelago is similar to Chiloe Archipelago 2 Contents 1 Climate and vegetation 1 1 Wildlife 2 Geology 3 History 3 1 Prehistory 3 2 Colonial Era 3 3 18th and early 19th centuries Emptyness 3 4 Pilgerodendron Era 4 Demography and economy 4 1 Tourism 5 Notes 6 References 7 External linksClimate and vegetation EditIslas GuaitecasClimate chart explanation J F M A M J J A S O N D 119 12 7 117 12 8 91 11 7 153 8 5 229 7 3 280 6 2 207 4 1 272 6 4 162 6 3 132 9 4 108 11 4 131 11 7 Average max and min temperatures in C Precipitation totals in mmSource 3 Imperial conversionJFMAMJJASOND 4 7 54 45 4 6 54 46 3 6 52 45 6 46 41 9 45 37 11 43 36 8 1 39 34 11 43 39 6 4 43 37 5 2 48 39 4 3 52 39 5 2 52 45 Average max and min temperatures in F Precipitation totals in inchesThe archipelago has a rainy and cool maritime temperate climate 4 Mean annual precipitation at Melinka is of 3 173 mm 124 9 in 4 Mean annual temperature is about 7 9 C 44 6 48 2 F 4 From September to December high tides in combination with storms produce large waves that wash over land depositing sand and gravel onshore 5 The main vegetation assemblage of the islands is the Bosque Siempreverde con Turberas de los Chonos lit Chonos Evergreen Forest with Bogs with the characteristic tree Pilgerodendron uviferum 4 Other trees in these forests are Nothofagus nitida coigue de Chiloe Metrosideros stipularis tepu and Weinmannia trichosperma tineo 6 In the ground of the more less open Pilgerodendron forest cushion plants such as Astelia pumila Donatia fascicularis and Oreobolus obtusangulus grow 7 In the western fringes of the archipelago the vegetation is made up of a c 2 meter 6 6 ft high shrubland of Pilgerondendron and Nothofagus nitida Amidst this shrubland occasional peatlands and forest exists 8 Vegetation type changes from the shore towards the island s interior parts Next to the sea herbs and occasional wild potatoes grow This is a zone of regular disturbance that is affected by winter storms 5 The wild potatoes that grow in the archipelago are mostly found in its western part Apparently these potatoes do not reproduce by seeds and rarely produce flowers and fruits 5 Slightly inland from the herbaceous zone follows a belt of brushy thickets This belt is followed by coastline forest that further away from the coasts gives way to a proper inland forest which may contain peat bogs 5 The archipelago contains 431 or 2 8 of Aysen Region s 15 240 ha of Sphagnum bogs 9 Wildlife Edit A variety of whales and dolphins have been spotted in the archipelago waters including Peale s dolphins black dolphins bottlenose dolphins humpback whales minke whales and killer whales 10 11 The Gulf of Corcovado to the north of the archipelago is arguably the largest feeding and nursing ground for blue whales in the entire Southern Hemisphere 10 All of this makes Guaitecas Archipelago a privileged place for whale watching 10 Geology EditFurther information Chonos Metamorphic Complex Traiguen Formation and Llanquihue glaciation The bedrock of the archipelago is varied In the northwest it is made of metamorphic rock 1 with rocks such as phyllite metacherts and greenschist 1 In the southeast granitoids lavas and brecciated lavas make most of the bedrock 1 The archipelago bears various marks of erosion from the glaciers that repeatedly covered the area during the last 2 million years 12 Among these marks are the numerous skerries of roche moutonnees that surround the main islands 12 Various channels between the islands are fjords shaped by glaciers and moraines in the archipelago are mostly to be found underwater 13 A study based on archaeological sites shows an overall trend of uplift in the archipelago during the Holocene Epoch The archipelago has been uplifted at rates of 0 57 m ka to 5 42 m ka during the Holocene 14 The archipelago was affected by earthquakes in 1575 1737 1837 1960 and 2016 14 15 The 1960 earthquake caused some subsidence in the archipelago 14 History EditSee also History of Chiloe and Maritime history of Chile Prehistory Edit See also Colonial Chile Radiocarbon dating of a shell midden in Gran Guaiteca has yielded an age of about 5 100 years B P making this a minimum age for human presence in the archipelago 16 Lithic artifacts found in the archipelago are usually made of basalt or andesite rock 17 In Pre Hispanic and colonial times the archipelago was inhabited by Chonos who lived as hunter gatherers traveling by canoe 14 A The Chono used the many caves found in the archipelago as cemeteries 19 where remains were preserved as mummies 20 The islands made up the southern limit of Pre Hispanic agriculture 21 as noted by the mention of the cultivation of potatoes by a Spanish expedition in 1557 5 B C Colonial Era Edit The Spanish who had settled in Chiloe Archipelago since 1567 launched from there numerous southward expeditions over the next two and half centuries D These explorations were driven by religious motives in the case of Jesuits and by rumours about settlements made by rival colonial powers as well the search for the mythical City of the Caesars 22 In 1662 Jesuit missionary Nicolas Mascardi visited Guaitecas Archipelago constructing a rudimentary church on the islands 22 In the 1670s the islands were briefly visited by the expeditions of Bartolome Gallardo and Antonio de Vea However efter this last expedition interest in the area by Spanish religious and military authorities waned until the 1740s 24 Jesuit Mateo Esteban who visited the islands in the 17th century estimated its population at 170 individuals 120 of which he managed to gather in a meeting 25 Following the crushing of the Huilliche rebellion of 1712 in Chiloe a small group of Huilliches went into hiding in Guaitecas Archipelago to avoid harsh Spanish reprimands 26 As result of a corsair and pirate menace Spanish authorities ordered the depopulation of the archipelago to deprive enemies of eventual support from native populations 27 E This led to the transfer of Chono population to Chiloe Archipelago in the north while other Chonos moved south of Taitao Peninsula effectively depopulating the territory 27 23 After this relations between remaining Chonos south of Guaitecas Archipelago and Spaniards and the inhabitants of Chiloe remained hostile up to the 19th century as attested by Enrique Simpson 23 18th and early 19th centuries Emptyness Edit Following the decline of the Chono populations in the archipelago in the 18th century the area gained a reputation of emptyness among Chileans akin to the description of eastern Patagonia as a desert 29 However the islands were often visited and traversed in the 19th century by fishermen lumberjacks and hunters from Chiloe 29 In 1834 during the second voyage of HMS Beagle Robert FitzRoy mapped the archipelago FitzRoy noted that Puerto Low in the archieplago was permanently inhabited by people from Chiloe which he did not identify as indigenous 29 Explorations sanctioned by the Chilean state begun with navy officer Francisco Hudson in 1857 30 Hudson and German settler Franz Fonck made explorations in Guaitecas Archipelago those years 31 With Hudson s death in 1859 Francisco Vidal Gormaz continued the explorations a duty that Enrique Simpson assumed in the 1870s 30 32 Simpson mapped Guaitecas Archipelago onboard of the corvette Chacabuco in the 1870s 31 He found FitzRoy s mapping of the northern part of the archipelago fine writing in 1870 that Fitzroy s chart that is quite exact until that point Melinka 43 53 S is worthless further ahead Thus south of Melinka Simpson relied more in the late 18th century sketches of Jose de Moraleda y Montero 33 Navy hydrographer Francisco Vidal Gormaz explored and charted the islands in the second half of the 19th century becoming critical of the work of Robert FitzRoy and Charles Darwin whom according to him had failed acknowledge the importance of the Patagonian islands 29 It is however clear that many of the explored areas were already known to the inhabitants of southern Chiloe who visited these areas for wood fish or hunting 31 29 Pilgerodendron Era Edit Pilgerodendron uviferum was exploited in the 19th and 20th centuries for its highly valued wood Felipe Westhoff a German Lithuanian immigrant who operated a Pilgerodendron uviferum logging business from Ancud founded Melinka in 1860 34 35 This was the first permanent settlement in the archipelago 34 Chilean authorities granted Westhoff exclusive rights on Pilgerodendron extraction in the archipelago and bestowed him the title of subdelegado maritimo which gave him some duties and authority over the archipelago in reality it meant little since he did not have the means to enforce the law or his rights 34 When Westhoff s time spent in the archipelago diminished in the early 1870s the title of subdelegado maritimo passed to his associate Enrique Lagreze 34 36 After Westhoff s retirement in the 1870s Ciriaco Alvarez rose to prominence as the foremost Pilgerodendron businessman 35 The chief export products of Alvarez were poles and vine training stacks that went to northern Chile and Peru 4 29 37 Alvarez business owned him the nickname of The King of Pilgerodendron Spanish El Rey del Cipres 35 and had great effects on the incipient economic development that came to link the archipelagoes of Chiloe Guaitecas and Chonos 29 Ever since the Pilgerodendron Era the archipelago and the other islands of Patagonia have had a reputation of lawlessness 38 Felipe Westhoff wrote 38 20 Such amount of people have led to violence abuses murder and other crimes which local authorities have not been able to avert due to lack of armed forces at their disposal That amount of peons not bound it can be said godless and lawless and without anything that hinder them to carry out their caprices or misdeeds Marine otter was once hunted for its fur by people based in Melinka One of the most famous of the early outlaws was Pedro Nancupel a pirate who was captured in Melinka in 1886 and bought into justice in Ancud the same year 38 39 19th century inhabitants of Melinka were engaged in fur trade 40 Fur was obtained from southern river otter citation needed and marine otter Hunting was made with the aid of dogs These hunters travelled often south beyond Taitao Peninsula to obtain furs 40 Demography and economy Edit Local carpenter Octavio Chiguay building a boat in Melinka The main settlement in the archipelago is Melinka on Ascencion Island with 1 411 inhabitants as of 2002 As of 2017 the archipelago had a population of 1 843 inhabitants a rise of almost 20 percent since the 2002 census 41 Since 2016 the settlements of Melinka and Repollal have electricity 24 hours per day 42 Much of the population of Guaitecas Archipelago is of Chilote Huilliche background 43 Since the 1980s the extraction of sea urchins and locos have featured prominently in the economy 43 In 1985 the discovery of merluza fishing grounds in Moraleda Channel sparkled a fishing boom 2 43 This boom had greater impact on more eastwards locations and in Guaitecas Archipelago the inhabitants continued to focus on benthic resources 43 a tradition shared with Chiloe Archipelago 2 In the 1990s salmon aquaculture became an important economic activity leading to leading salmon aquaculture companies to establish facilities in Melinka using the town as operative base 43 2 Tourism Edit On February 3 and 4 a feria costumbrista is held at Repollal Alto in Ascencion Island 44 Fishermen in Melinka offer combined tours of bird watching and whale watching through the archipelago 10 Notes Edit A speculative theory proposed by Ricardo E Latcham holds that Chono arrived to the Guaitecas Archipelago from Chiloe Archipelago after these were invaded by Huilliche from the mainland in the 13th century 18 Later in 1834 during the second voyage of HMS Beagle Charles Darwin collected potatoes from Guaitecas 5 The presence of maize in Guaitecas Archipelago is also mentioned by early Spanish explorers albeit they may have misidentified the plant 4 Spanish authorities organized expeditions in 1578 and 1620 this last expedition reached San Rafael Lake New southward expeditions followed in 1639 1641 1656 60 1674 and 1675 6 Jesuits based in Chiloe Archipelago visited the islands south of Chiloe in 1609 and in 1613 for the first time they reached Guayaneco Archipelago 22 More jesuit expeditions followed in 1617 1622 1656 1660 1662 Nicolas Mascardi 1670 1763 1766 7 and 1767 As the Jesuits were suppressed Franciscans continued the expeditions in 1778 1778 79 1779 80 22 23 In the aftermath of the wreck of HMS Wager in 1739 Marquis of the Ensenada briefly considered the establishment of a Spanish fort in Guaitecas Archieplago to guard against British incursions 28 References Edit a b c d e Herve F Thiele R Parada M A 1976 El basamento metamorfico del archipielago de las Guaitecas Aysen Chile PDF Primer Congreso Geologico Chileno in Spanish Santiago a b c d Saavedra Gallo Gonzalo 2011 Tensiones modernizantes y condicionantes culturales del desarrollo en el borde costero del Sur Austral chileno Modernizing tensions and cultural conditioners of development in the south austral Chilean coastal seaboard Revista Lider in Spanish 19 201 219 NASA Earth Observations Data Set Index NASA Retrieved January 30 2016 a b c d e f Torrejon Fernando Bizama Fernando Araneda Alberto Aguayo Mauricio Bertrand Sebastien Urrutia Roberto 2013 Descifrando la historia ambiental de los archipielagos de Aysen Chile El influjo colonial y la explotacion economica mercantil republicana siglos XVI XIX Deciphering the environmental history of the Aysen archipelagos Chile Colonial influence and commercial exploitation during the Republican Era XVI XIX centuries Magallania in Spanish 41 1 29 52 doi 10 4067 S0718 22442013000100002 Retrieved December 11 2018 a b c d e f Contreras Andres Ciampi Luigi Padulosi Stefano Spooner David M 1993 Potato germplasm collecting expedition to the Guaitecas and Chonos Archipelagos Chile 1990 Potato Research 36 4 309 316 doi 10 1007 bf02361797 S2CID 6759459 Reserva Nacional Las Guaitecas conaf cl in Spanish National Forest Corporation Retrieved January 10 2019 Luebert amp Pliscoff pp 192 195 Luebert amp Pliscoff pp 208 209 Villaroel Dagoberto Henriquez Jose Manuel Dominguez Erwin Silva Fernan Martinez MariaPaz Baez John Distribucion geografica de turberas de Sphagnum en la region de Aysen In Dominguez Erwin Martinez Maria Paz eds Funciones y servicios ecosistemicos de las turberas de Sphagnum en la Region de Aysen in Spanish Coyhaique Instituto de Investigacion Agropecuaria Centro Regional de Investigacion Tamel Aike pp 21 47 a b c d Guala Catalan Cesar Hucke Gaete Rodrigo Ruiz Troemel Jorge 2011 Whale Watching Opportunities in Northern Patagonia Chile Pacific News 35 Zamorano Abramson Jose Gibbons Jorge Capella Juan 2010 Diversity and summer distribution of cetaceans in inlet waters of northern Aisen Chile Anales del Instituto de la Patagonia 38 1 151 157 doi 10 4067 S0718 686X2010000100012 Retrieved January 10 2019 a b Bruggen Juan 1935 Informe Geologico sobre la region del Canal de Ofqui PDF Report in Spanish Santiago de Chile Departamento de Minas y Petroleo Ministerio de Fomento pp 4 6 Retrieved December 30 2018 Munoz Cristi Jorge 1956 Chile In Jenks William F ed Handbook of South American Geology p 212 a b c d Reyes Omat Mendez Cesar San Roman Manuel Francois Jean Pierre 2018 Earthquakes and coastal archaeology Assessing shoreline shifts on the southernmost Pacific coast Chonos Archipelago 43 50 46 50 S Chile South America Quaternary International 463 161 175 doi 10 1016 j quaint 2016 10 001 M7 6 39km SSW of Puerto Quellon Chile United States Geological Survey Retrieved December 25 2016 Cardenas et al 1991 p 98 Cardenas et al 1991 p 111 Cardenas et al 1991 p 34 Cardenas et al 1991 p 123 a b Westhoff Felipe 1867 Jeografia i meteorolojia chilena Memoria del subdelegado maritimo del archipielago de los Chono o Guaitecas Anales de la Universidad de Chile in Spanish XXIX 7 445 450 Retrieved January 12 2019 Bird Junius 1946 The Alacaluf In Steward Julian H ed Handbook of South American Indians Bulletin 143 Vol I Bureau of American Ethnology pp 55 79 a b c d Sepulveda Ortiz Jorge Exploraciones efectuadas en la region de Trapananda antes del siglo XIX PDF Boletin de la Academia de Historia Naval y Maritima de Chile 95 110 Retrieved January 25 2019 a b c Caballero Vasquez Felipe Ricardo Aau el secreto de los chono PDF Retrieved January 24 2019 a href Template Cite journal html title Template Cite journal cite journal a Cite journal requires journal help Urbina Carrasco Maria Ximena 2010 La navegacion por los canales australes en la Patagonia Occidental insular en los siglos coloniales La ruta del istmo de Ofqui Navigation on the Austral channels in the islands of Western Patagonia during colonial centuries The route of the isthmus of Ofqui Magallania in Spanish 38 2 41 67 doi 10 4067 S0718 22442010000200003 Retrieved December 21 2019 Urbina Burgos Rodolfo 2007 El pueblo chono de vagabundo y pagano a cristiano y sedentario mestizado PDF Orbis incognitvs avisos y legados del Nuevo Mundo in Spanish Huelva Universidad de Huelva pp 325 346 ISBN 9788496826243 Trivero Rivera Alberto 2007 La virgen de los Poyas Desde Nahuelhuapi hasta Achao in Spanish pp 1 28 a b Ibar Bruce Jorge 1960 Ensayo sobre los indios Chonos e interpretacion de sus toponimias Anales de la Universidad de Chile in Spanish 117 61 70 Urbina Carrasco Maria Ximena 2014 El frustrado fuerte de Tenquehuen en el archipielago de los Chonos 1750 Dimension chilota de un conflicto hispano britanico Historia 47 I Retrieved 28 January 2016 a b c d e f g Nunez Andres G Molina O Raul Aliste A Enrique Bello A Alvaro 2016 Silencios geograficos de Patagonia Aysen Territorio nomadismo y perspectivas para re pensar los margenes de la nacion en el siglo XIX Geographical silences in Patagonia Aysen Territory nomadism and perspectives for re thinking the margins of Chile in the nineteenth century Magallania in Spanish 44 2 107 130 doi 10 4067 S0718 22442016000200006 Retrieved December 10 2018 a b Exploradores y colonos en Aysen 1870 1927 a b c Bello Maldonado Alvaro 2017 Exploracion conocimiento geografico y nacion La creacion de la Patagonia Occidental y Aysen a fines del siglo XIX PDF In Nunez Andres Aliste Enrique Bello Maldonado Alvaro Osorio Mauricio eds Imaginarios geograficos practicas y discursos de frontera Aisen Patagonia desde el texto de la nacion GEOlibros in Spanish Impresion Grafica LOM pp 61 86 ISBN 978 956 14 2064 9 Sepulveda Ortiz Jorge 1998 Francisco Hudson un destacado marino poco conocido en nuestra historia PDF Revista de Marina in Spanish 1 20 archived from the original PDF on 2019 01 23 retrieved 2019 01 23 Simpson E 1874 Esploraciones hechas por la Corbeta Chacabuco al mando del capitan de fragata don Enrique M Simpson en los Archipielagos de Guaitecas Chonos i Taitao Santiago Imprenta Nacional a b c d Morales B Diego 2014 El negocio de la madera comerciantes y hacheros de Chiloe 1850 1875 Timber business woodcutters and merchants of Chiloe 1850 1875 Magallania in Spanish 42 2 41 60 doi 10 4067 S0718 22442014000200003 Retrieved January 10 2019 a b c Quien era Felipe Westhoff Rodhius eldivisadero cl in Spanish Diario El Divisadero July 28 2012 Retrieved January 10 2019 Cavada F 1914 Chiloe y los chilotes in Spanish Santiago Imprenta Universitaria Otero Luis 2006 La huella del fuego Historia de los bosques nativos Poblamiento y cambios en el paisaje del sur de Chile in Spanish Pehuen Editores ISBN 956 16 0409 4 a b c Marin Lleucun Alejandro 2015 Puerto Gala y Puerto Gaviota 1985 1993 Una mirada desde el triangulo de la violencia Port of Gala and Port of Gaviota 1985 1993 A look from the triangle of violence Magallania in Spanish 43 2 Retrieved January 10 2019 Cardenas Alvarez Renato January 17 2005 La historia del pirata chilote Pedro Nancupel in Spanish El Llanquihue Retrieved January 10 2019 Cuando es capturado en Melinka ya era una leyenda porque habia evadido la persecucion a b Alvarez A Ricardo Navarro P Magdalena Saavedra G Gonzalo Donoso C Cristian 2015 Referencias exploratorias sobre el lago Presidente Rios para sortear el Istmo de Ofqui Peninsula de Taitao Region de Aysen Exploratory references on Presidente Rios lake for routes round the Ofqui Isthmus Taitao Peninsula Aysen Region Chile Magallania in Spanish 43 1 91 101 doi 10 4067 S0718 22442015000100006 Retrieved December 21 2019 1 Indicadores demograficos BCN in Spanish Biblioteca del Congreso Nacional Retrieved December 21 2018 1 800 habitantes de localidades de Melinka y Repollal en comuna de Guaitecas contaran con luz electrica las 24 horas in Spanish Subsecretaria de Desarrollo Regional y Administrativo March 30 2016 Retrieved December 23 2018 a b c d e Saavedra G Gonzalo 2007 Practicas Economicas en las Costas Insulares de Aisen Testimonios de Persistencia y Transformacion PDF Actas del 6º Congreso Chileno de Antropologia VI Congreso Chileno de Antropologia in Spanish Valdivia Colegio de Antropologos de Chile A G pp 1696 1703 Fiesta Costumbrista Repollal Alto Recorre Aysen in Spanish Retrieved December 23 2018 BibliographyCardenas A Renato Montiel Vera Dante Grace Hall Catherine 1991 Los chono y los veliche de Chiloe PDF in Spanish Santiago de Chile Olimpho Luebert Federico Pliscoff Patricio 2017 2006 Sinopsis bioclimatica y vegetacional de Chile in Spanish 2nd ed Santiago de Chile Editorial Universitaria p 381 ISBN 978 956 11 2575 9 External links EditIslands of Chile United Nations Environment Programme World island information WorldIslandInfo com South America Island High Points above 1000 meters Amateur Radio Expedition XR7T United States Hydrographic Office South America Pilot 1916 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Guaitecas Archipelago amp oldid 1151598181, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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