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First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park

First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park is a Montana state park and National Historic Landmark in Cascade County, Montana in the United States. The park is 1,481 acres (599 ha) and sits at an elevation of 3,773 feet (1,150 m).[1] It is located about 3.5 miles (5.6 km) northwest of the small town of Ulm, which is near the city of Great Falls. First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park contains the Ulm Pishkun (also known as the Ulm Buffalo Jump), a historic buffalo jump utilized by the Native American tribes of North America.[2] It has been described as, geographically speaking, either North America's largest buffalo jump[4][5][6] or the world's largest.[7][8] There is some evidence that it was the most utilized buffalo jump in the world.[9] The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places on December 17, 1974,[10] and designated a National Historic Landmark in August 2015.[11] The former name of the park was derived from the Blackfeet word "Pis'kun," meaning "deep kettle of blood," and the nearby town of Ulm.[12][13][14]

First Peoples Buffalo Jump
State Park
Location in Montana
LocationCascade County, Montana, United States
Nearest cityGreat Falls, Montana
Coordinates47°29′23″N 111°31′45″W / 47.48972°N 111.52917°W / 47.48972; -111.52917[1]
Area1,481 acres (5.99 km2)
Elevation3,773 ft (1,150 m)[1]
DesignationMontana state park
Established1972[2]
Named forA buffalo jump and the First Peoples of Montana
Visitors20,280 (in 2016)[3]
AdministratorMontana Fish, Wildlife & Parks
WebsiteFirst Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park

Although there are more than 300 buffalo kill sites in Montana,[15] First People's Buffalo Jump is one of only three protected buffalo jumps in the state. The other two are Madison Buffalo Jump near Three Forks, and Wahkpa Chu'gn near Havre,[16] both of which are also on the National Register of Historic Places.[10] It may be the largest bison cliff jump in North America.[11]

History edit

Native American use edit

 
Artist's depiction of a buffalo jump in use.

The site's cliff face is approximately 1 mile (1.6 km) long,[5][15][17] and has been variously measured at between 30 and 50 feet (9.1 and 15.2 m) in height.[18] The east–west-trending cliff is composed of sandstone that is part of the bentonitic Taft Hill Member of the Blackleaf Formation.[8]

Archeological research and carbon dating of evidence at the site indicates that Native Americans used the site as early as 500 CE[19] However, in 2011, park archeologists found a point (either a large arrowhead or a spearhead) that initial estimates indicated might be as much as 5,000 years old, which would force a radical revision in the date of earliest use.[20] But this early use appears to be infrequent. Most evidence indicates that the pishkun began to be heavily frequented for hunting purposes around 900 CE.[21]

The site was used as a "buffalo jump," a place where American bison could be driven up a hill and over a cliff.[22] Prior to 1700 CE, Native Americans lacked horses. Because they utilized dogs as hunting companions and for transportation, this time period is known as the "Dog Days" by many tribes.[20] Bison served as a significant food source for many Native American tribes. Killing the animals, however, was difficult, as bison are notoriously difficult to herd or capture, and can be highly aggressive. Buffalo jumps were one way to kill large numbers of the animals at once without many of the risks associated with close-proximity ambush. Once the animals were driven over the cliff and incapacitated, they would be slaughtered and their meat, hides, and bones used by the hunters to feed and clothe their families and to make various tools and weapons. Jumps were rare, as ambush was a far more common killing method.[19] There is conflicting evidence about what time of year the jumps were used most heavily. There is some evidence that bison kills usually occurred between early fall and early spring,[23] but evidence of unborn and young calf skeletons at the site indicate that slaughter may have occurred year-round.[24]

Under the most widely accepted scenario,[24] hunters would slowly encircle a bison herd several miles from the jump and subtly drive them toward the base of the hill leading up to the cliff.[23][24] It's not known how many hunters this required. Archeologists theorize that anywhere from 12 to 100 people may have participated.[23] Low fences (or "drive lines") of rock and braided vines were built to help funnel the bison toward the summit.[24] These fences extended back at least half a mile from the summit.[6] (About 260 stone piles, remnants of these drive lines, still exist near the hilltop.[25] In 2011, remains of the braided vines were also found at the site.)[20] As the bison began moving toward the summit, hunters (perhaps wearing wolf hides) would leap up from their hiding places behind the rock fences and begin making loud noises.[24] This would begin to stampede the herd, so that they could not stop at the cliff face and would plummet over it to their deaths.[24] There are oral history traditions among some tribes about "buffalo runners" – swift, brave young men who would drape themselves in a buffalo robe and race ahead of the herd to help lead them toward the cliff summit.[24] The young man would leap over the cliff and land on a ledge just out of sight below, while the herd would plummet over and past him.[24] Others (primarily women and children) would kill any animals who did not die from the fall, and butcher all the carcasses.[23][24]

 
American bison

The slaughtering process changed over time. An analysis of the deep piles of bone at the site revealed that the earliest hunters probably just stripped the hides and meat off the dead animals.[23] But around 500 CE, Native Americans began using fire pits to cook or dry the meat, then pulverize it and mix it with dried berries and fat to create pemmican.[6][23] Tribespeople also built shallow bowls in the earth and lined them with rock to create primitive cooking pots. These cooking devices (known as "blood kettles") were used to boil bison blood so that it would coagulate and to lessen its susceptibility to spoilage.[26] Other foods would be mixed with the coagulated blood to form a sort of gelatinous food source high in protein and nutrients, or the cooked blood could be used with ground grain to make biscuits.[26]

People came together under temporary leadership to plan and carry out bison drives and in the huge butchering task that followed. Willingness to obey leaders lasted only so long as it was made necessary by the demands of the communal work. Communal hunts required leadership and organization, but neither was carried over as a permanent feature of the sociopolitical system. When the drive and the distribution of dried meat was over the need for leadership was gone, and they returned to informal band organizations[27]

Several Native American tribes have an oral history which includes the First Peoples Buffalo Jump. These include the A'aninin, Assiniboine, Cree, Kalispel, Piegan Blackfeet, Salish, and Shoshoni.[25] Each of these tribes has its own name for this pishkun.[20] There is evidence that other tribes may also have used the pishkun, but this is not conclusive.[25] The site was used heavily throughout this period. There is archeological evidence that members of these tribes camped on and near the pishkun.[28] One indication of how frequented the site was is the bone bed, which extends along the entire length of the cliff[15][29] and is 13 feet (4.0 m) deep.[15][21] An archeological estimate based on the number of bones at the site indicates that at least 6,000 bison died there.[19]

With the arrival of the horse, Native American tribes began hunting buffalo from horseback,[23] and the pishkun fell into disuse around 1700 CE.[21]

Post-Native American use edit

The area that is today known as the state of Montana was made an organized incorporated territory of the United States in 1864 after a series of gold rushes. Settlement of the territory was sparse, especially the area around the pishkun. In 1878, the area containing the First Peoples Buffalo Jump fell under the control of William H. Ulm, a white settler from Indiana who homesteaded a 1,000-acre (400 ha) cattle ranch in the area.[30] The pishkun itself was named Taft Hill.[8] The nearby city of Great Falls was founded in 1883, and the Montana Central Railway arrived from the booming mining town of Butte (passing through Ulm on its way to Great Falls) in October 1887.[31]

The pishkun site became a popular one for members of the public to look for arrowheads and other Native American artifacts.[19] From 1889 to 1905, the pishkun was used as a sandstone quarry.[6][32] Several buildings in Great Falls and Helena were built with sandstone quarried from the site.[32]

The state of Montana obtained the site sometime prior to 1945.[19] From 1945 to 1947, the need for phosphorus (a mineral used in fertilizer and explosives) was high. The state of Montana leased the site for $7,600[19] to the Frost Fertilizer Company, which began "mining" it for bone.[33] More than 150 short tons (140 t) of bones were removed from the site, pulverized, and shipped to the West Coast for use as fertilizer and in explosives manufacturing.[34] The site was one of the two largest pishkuns in the United States mined for bison bone.[33] A second attempt to mine the site for bone was made in the 1950s. But local rancher Earl Monroe, who wished to protect the site from further depredation, leased the land and kept it off-limits to the public.[23]

As a state park edit

 
Visitor Center
 
A map of First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park as of 2011

The Montana Department of State Lands (now known as the Department of Natural Resources and Conservation) purchased a portion of the site in the 1930s. The lands were made part of the school trust lands – land held in trust for the benefit of the Montana public school system. Under a mandate from the Montana Constitution, these lands must be managed to obtain the maximum benefit possible.[35] Amateur archeological activities began at the site in the 1950s and 1960s, which developed archeological evidence about the importance of the site.[32] The first efforts to establish a state park occurred shortly thereafter but were unsuccessful.[32]

In the early 1970s, the Montana Historical Society leased the portion of the site owned by the state.[23] The historical society turned its lease over to the Montana Fish and Game Commission (now the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks), which in 1972 turned the 160-acre (65 ha) site into a Montana State Historical Monument.[21] The Fish and Game Commission eventually leased the site directly and managed it on behalf of the Department of State Lands.[21] From 1972 until 1998, the only amenities at the site were picnic tables and limited signage below the cliffs.[21] Local private organizations assisted the Fish and Game Commission in maintaining the site.[21] Scientific research, funded almost exclusively by private organizations, was conducted at the site in the 1990s.[21]

The park underwent major expansion in the late 1990s. In 1993, media mogul Ted Turner – who owned large tracts of land in Montana – proposed giving the state of Montana 11,630 acres (4,710 ha) of land near Alder, Montana, and 1,059 acres (429 ha) at the Ulm pishkun in exchange for the state's releasing 7,486 acres (3,029 ha) of land located within Turner's Flying D Ranch (located just north of Yellowstone National Park).[36][37] The Ulm land ran directly along the cliff face and near the base of the hill leading up to the jump.[35] This proposal was rejected, but Turner modified the proposal and asked for just 6,167 acres (2,496 ha) of state-owned land within the Flying D.[36] The state accepted the deal in 1996,[36] but was sued by four sportsmen's groups who argued that the state was gaining access to low-quality fisheries near Alder and losing access to high-quality ones on the Flying D.[37] The district court issued a summary judgment in favor of the state, but the Montana Supreme Court overturned this ruling in Skyline Sportsmen's Association v. Board of Land Commissioners, 286 Mont. 108, 951 P2d 29 (1997), and remanded the case back to the district court for further proceedings.[37] In August 1998, Turner agreed to provide a 20-year conservation easement to give the public access to the fisheries on his land.[37] Four months later, the state Department of Natural Resources and Conservation (DNRC) gave 1,070 acres (430 ha) of land next to the pishkun to the state Fish and Wildlife Commission in exchange for 1,067 acres (432 ha) nearby.[38] The DNRC had gotten the land from Turner, and the swap occurred to help expand the southern portion of the pishkun by more than a mile.[38]

The land swap meant that a number of improvements to the park could now go forward. The Montana FWP had long sought to build an interpretive center at the site, but due to the small amount of land the state owned the project had never received permission.[24] Although the land swap was not yet a done deal, in 1997 the Montana state legislature approved $950,000 for a new visitor center.[39] The center was originally proposed for the top of the cliffs, but Native American tribes opposed that site.[21] Instead, a 6,000-square-foot (560 m2) center was sited at the base of the hill leading up to the cliffs.[23]

A series of major improvements occurred at the site in 1999. Cascade County and the city of Great Falls each contributed $100,000 to widen the 3.5 miles (5.6 km) road leading to the pishkun, and the state spent $300,000 to pave it.[39] When the $2.2 million visitor center opened in May 1999,[2] it was the first pishkun visitor center in the state of Montana and the nation.[9] The DFWP also engaged in a land swap with the DNRC in December 1999, giving away 630 acres (250 ha) of flat land in exchange of 700 acres (280 ha) of DNRC land near the base of the hill leading to the jump.[35] FWP announced that the land swap would allow it to construct hiking trails from the visitor center to the cliff summit.[35]

In February 2000, the site was changed from a state monument to a state park, and named Ulm Pishkun Buffalo Jump State Park.[40] The same year, the All Nations Pishkun Association (ANPA), a group of all Native American tribes in the state, was formed to support the park, provide educational activities there, spread awareness of the park's existence, and encourage visitation to the site.[41]

The park underwent expansion again the following year. In 2001, the state traded some excess land at the southern end of the jump for a private landowner's property near the top of the jump, a transaction which not only connected all parts of the jump for the first time but which also acquired the cliff for almost its entire length.[21] In October, a winter wheat field between the cliff and the visitor center was removed and reseeded with native grass.[25] Trails about 2 miles (3.2 km) long were also constructed in 2001 between the visitor center and the jump cliff.[25]

The park began to reach its present size in 2002. In August, the DFWP leased more than 1,200 acres (490 ha) of DNRC land to the west of the park, doubling the size of the buffalo jump.[42] Additionally, two privately leased portions of land next to the park were turned over to the DFWP as well. The ANPA leased a 360-acre (150 ha) site against the park's border for $2,500 a year, while ANPA secretary Brad Hamlett leased a 900-acre (360 ha) site to the park's south for $1,600 a year.[42][43] The 900-acre section contained the last unprotected segment of the hill as it rose to the cliff face.[44] Both leases were assigned to the DFWP for the term of the lease, which was 10 years (with an option to renew at the end).[42]

 
Wild horses from the Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range, like these, are stabled at First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park.

Development of educational activities at the pishkun occurred in other ways, too. In June 2004, the ANPA, in cooperation with DFWP and DNRC, began housing four Spanish Barb horses at the park.[45] The Barbs were obtained from the Bureau of Land Management's Pryor Mountains Wild Horse Range, and are direct linear descendants of horses brought by the Spanish to North America in the 16th century.[44][45]

Efforts to expand the park even further occurred in 2005. State officials began working on yet another land purchase that would permanently double the size of the park.[44] In March 2005, the DFWP spent $96,500 to eliminate a hairpin turn on Taft Hill Road, reduce the road's grade, and lay new gravel on the road (which enters the park on its west side and provides vehicular access to the cliff face).[46] Park officials also began to worry in 2005 about an infestation of black-tailed prairie dogs. The prairie dogs, which were not native to the area, took over an area about 200 acres (81 ha) in size, denuding it of vegetation and altering the historic appearance of the summit of the buffalo jump.[44] Park officials worried that arrowheads and other artifacts were being exposed by the activity of the prairie dogs, and that tourists were taking these artifacts from the park.[44] The prairie dogs were also destroying the tipi rings and sweat lodges placed at the top of the pishkun.[44] The existence of the prairie dogs was also worrisome because the site was so poorly explored. In the summer of 2005, as park officials relocated a portion of the hiking trail leading to the top of the cliffs, they discovered three "blood kettles" mere feet from the old trail.[26]

The 2005 effort to expand the park culminated in 2006. In July, the Montana Land Board, the state agency which supervises management of the state's school trust lands, agreed to buy the 898 acres (363 ha) of private land adjacent to the park's northern border for $763,000 and turn over a third of the acreage to the Ulm Buffalo Jump State Park.[47][48] Marilyn and Ron Eustace, whose family had owned the property since the 1940s, had originally proposed a 250-acre (100 ha) land swap so that the state park could own more land on top of the cliff.[47] But the state offered to buy the cliff-top land instead, along with the rest of the Eustace family ranch.[47] The property had been the top item on the DFWP acquisition list.[48] The purchase included the portion of the cliff not already owned by DFWP, and a large portion of the cliff and bone bed which had never been mined, quarried, or disturbed.[48][49] Stone and braided vine "drive lines" and some tipi rings also existed on the Eustace land.[49] The purchase was made using funds from the Montana Land Banking program,[48] a program established in 2003 that seeks to manage state lands more effectively, improve the value of state land, increase the earning potential for this land, and/or reduce the risk to school trust land. The Land Board funded the transaction by using a portion of $6.4 million earned from selling an isolated industrial parcel near Kalispell.[50] The Ulm pishkun sale was the first purchase the Land Board had ever made.[50] The 300 acres (120 ha) of land transferred to DFWP was non-productive; DNRC retained the remaining land, and said it intended to lease it for farming or grazing.[50] The addition expanded the park to about 2,043 acres (827 ha).[49] In February 2007, the DFWP purchased a $334,000 permanent conservation easement on 418 acres (169 ha) of the DRNC-owned land.[51] DFWP would pay a lease fee for five years on the land, during which time it would seek funding to pay the easement from the state legislature.[51] The easement was purchased in March 2010.[20][52]

Additional expansion was explored in 2009. In early 2009, the ANPA and Hamlett began seeking a way to have the DNRC transfer the lands they leased to the DFWP, and take it out of production as farmland.[52][53] On March 30, the DFWP agreed to take over the leases for a year.[54] The ANPA and Hamlett suggested that the additional lands be used to house a small group of buffalo,[20] or to provide camp sites for visitors.[54] But no action had been taken as of April 2011.

Access, services, and wildlife edit

 
The buffalo jump

Entrance to the north end of the park is via Taft Hill Road (which approaches the base of the cliff), McIver Road from West Central in Great Falls; and to the east end via Ulm-Vaughn Road (which leads to the visitor's center, the slope up the hill, and the summit of the cliffs).[32] A 2-mile-long (3.2 km) trail leads from the visitor's center to the cliff summit and back again, and includes signage about the buffalo jump along the way as well as a tipi ring (a ring of stones which indicate that a tipi was once held in place there).[32] There are drinking water facilities, garbage cans, and public restrooms throughout the park.[55]

First Peoples Buffalo Jump is managed by Region Four of the Montana state park system, and as of 2005 the park was operated by a full-time park manager, one full-time and two seasonal park rangers, and a part-time maintenance worker.[56] The 1,481-acre (599 ha) park is open year-round.[55] The park is reached by road by traveling 10 miles (16 km) south of Great Falls on Interstate 15, taking the Ulm exit, and then traveling 3.5 miles (5.6 km) on Ulm-Vaughn Road.[55] Alternately, from Great Falls, it can be accessed via West Central Avenue, connecting to McIver Road. After 8.5 miles at the T, turn left onto Ulm Vaughn Rd. after a half mile, at the first turn in the road, you will arrive at the north entrance. Or continue on Ulm Vaughn Road to the road leading to the top of the jump or until you see the sign for the Visitor Center. During the summer (May–October) the park is open daily 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.; in the winter it is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.[55] Montana residents do not need to pay a fee to access the park, but non-residents must pay a $5.00 fee for automobiles or a $3.00 fee for accessing the park via foot or bicycle.[55]

The visitor's center consists of a main hall describing Native American buffalo culture and how buffalo hunts were organized, a room displaying archeological finds from the site, a gift shop, and restrooms.[32] A picnic area is adjacent to the visitor center.[32] The fields nearby are also available for use by the public.[32] Visitors can see a stuffed bison bull, cow, and calf; a life-size tipi made of buffalo hides; and a 160-foot (49 m) mural depicting the surrounding landscape.[9] The importance of bison in modern culture is also emphasized, and visitors can view a buffalo nickel coin and a football helmet adorned with the image of a bison.[9] The visitor center exhibits were updated in 2006 to improve even further their historical accuracy.[57] In 2009, eight new murals were unveiled which updated and provided more information about Montana's Native American tribes.[58]

Many artifacts such as arrowheads, pieces of pottery, bone knives, and bone scrapers can be found exposed or only slightly buried at First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park.[25] It is illegal to disturb these items, dig them up, or remove them from the park. Park rangers should be alerted to the location of these items when they are discovered.

Plants and animals edit

 
The prairie rattlesnake can be found at First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park. Visitors are advised to wear heavy hiking boots when visiting the park.

A wide variety of plants and animals can be found at the pishkun. Among the plant species which grow there are blue grama, bluebunch wheatgrass, needle-and-thread grass, and prickly pear cactus.[25] Wildlife which can be seen there include American badgers, black-tailed prairie dogs, burrowing owls, coyotes, curlews, ferruginous hawks, golden eagles, gopher snakes, gray partridges, great horned owls, larks, mice, mountain cottontails, mule deer, pheasants, porcupines, pronghorns, raccoons, racer snakes, red-tailed hawks, Richardson's ground squirrels, sharp-tailed grouse, striped skunks, Swainson's hawks, western rattlesnakes, and yellow-bellied marmots.[25]

Hunting with bow and arrow is available on a limited basis within the park (although hunting with firearms is not). Bow hunting is limited to those areas furthest away from the trails and other visitor areas.[58] Hunters primarily stalk antelope and mule deer within the park.[58] Hunting in the park boundaries is not common; only 25 hunting permits were issued by the park in 2008.[58]

Visitors are cautioned to be on the lookout for prairie rattlesnakes, which frequent the site. Visitors are asked to wear heavy hiking boots, watch small children closely, and keep pets on a leash.[59]

Events edit

The Native American Cultural Fair is held in the park in late September of each year.[23] The event features an art show (which often features hand-made Native American decorative art and fancy dress), traditional Native American games, songs, demonstrations of buffalo hide tanning, and lectures and demonstrations of traditional Native American culture, stories, and culture.[23]

Since 2000, the park has also held an atlatl contest each September. The event, which draws participants from throughout the American West, features both accuracy and distance contests as well as atlatl-making courses.[23]

In 2008, the University of Great Falls began hosting an annual Buffalo Jump Fun Run each Memorial Day weekend. The event includes a 3-mile (4.8 km) walk, a 6.25-mile (10.06 km) run, and a half-marathon.[60]

In popular culture edit

In 2000, University of Idaho music professor Dan Bukvich composed "Buffalo Jump Ritual," a symphonic piece inspired by a 1998 visit Bukvich made to the park.[61] Commissioned by the Montana Bandmasters Association for the 2000 all-state high school band competition, "Buffalo Jump Ritual" utilizes Native American instruments and melodies, as well as rocks crashing against one another as percussion.[61] In 2009, the nearby town of Ulm named its annual founding day anniversary event "Ulm Buffalo Days" in honor of the nearby pishkun.[62] The Jumping Buffalo Cafe in Ulm is also named for the site.[62]

See also edit

Footnotes edit

  1. ^ a b c "First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park". Geographic Names Information System. United States Geological Survey. January 1, 1995. Retrieved October 26, 2011.
  2. ^ a b c "Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan: Final". Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks. December 2005. p. iv. Retrieved June 30, 2020.
  3. ^ "2016 Annual Visitation Report". Montana State Parks. Retrieved June 30, 2018.
  4. ^ Alberta-Montana Heritage Partnership, p. 272; Gale, p. 143; Gottberg, Harris, and Haselsteiner, p. 579.
  5. ^ a b Robison, p. 13.
  6. ^ a b c d Baumler, p. 15.
  7. ^ Wilson, p. 256; Wright, p. 7; Conklin, p. 40; Gilles, p. 52.
  8. ^ a b c Schalla and Johnson, p. 60.
  9. ^ a b c d Puckett, Karl. "Historic Buffalo Jump Site." Great Falls Tribune. May 30, 1999.
  10. ^ a b Puckett, Karl. "Bison Kill Site Yields Terrific Old Treasures." Great Falls Tribune. July 5, 1999.
  11. ^ a b Sherman, David. "First Peoples Buffalo Jump designated as National Historic Landmark". KTVQ. Retrieved October 30, 2017.
  12. ^ Aarstad et al., p. 272.
  13. ^ "Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan: Final". Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks. December 2005. p. 1. Retrieved June 30, 2020.
  14. ^ In March 1999, the Blackfeet tribe of Montana asked that the public and state officials begin calling the site by a new name, Kakpayta Peyasu Pishkun (or Listening Thunder Pishkun). However, state officials said that since the site was used by many tribes and not just the Blackfeet, the old name would stay. See: Puckett, Karl. "Group Says It Changed the Name of Ulm Pishkun." Great Falls Tribune. March 8, 1999.
  15. ^ a b c d Punke, p. 35.
  16. ^ Graf, p. 20
  17. ^ Halliday and Chehak, p. 283.
  18. ^ Fifer, p. 111; Dunn and Kennedy, p. 367; Engel, Engel, and Swan, p. 251.
  19. ^ a b c d e f Puckett, Karl. "Whites, Indians Alike See Pishkun as Bridge Between Their Cultures." Great Falls Tribune. March 19, 1999.
  20. ^ a b c d e f "Buffalo Jump Expansion Unearths Gems." Great Falls Tribune. March 27, 2011. Accessed 2011-05-12.
  21. ^ a b c d e f g h i j "Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan: Final". Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks. December 2005. p. 2. Retrieved June 30, 2020.
  22. ^ A "bison kill site" is any place where bison were killed by Native American peoples. However, most of these sites are dead-end canyons, narrow or steep defiles, steep-sided watering holes, and similar places where buffalo could be trapped. These sites made it difficult for a bison to escape, allowing the native hunter to more safely kill the animal or pen one or several animals up for slaughter at leisure. Not all bison kill sites are buffalo jumps; a buffalo jump is a specific type of bison kill site.
  23. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m . Archived from the original on July 2, 2011. Retrieved May 18, 2011.
  24. ^ a b c d e f g h i j Hobbs, Nancy. "The Sacred Buffalo Jump." Salt Lake Tribune. May 30, 1999.
  25. ^ a b c d e f g h "Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan: Final". Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks. December 2005. p. 3. Retrieved June 30, 2020.
  26. ^ a b c Lee, Sonja. "Ancient Blood Kettles Discovered." Great Falls Tribune. February 15, 2006.
  27. ^ Archaeology of Native North America, 2010, Dean R. Snow, Prentice-Hall, New York. pp. 259-260
  28. ^ "Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan: Final". Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks. December 2005. pp. 3–4. Retrieved June 30, 2020.
  29. ^ Rinella, p. 150.
  30. ^ Cheney, p. 229; Coleman, Travis. "Current and Past Ulm Residents Reminisce on Town's 120th Birthday." Great Falls Tribune. June 14, 2009.
  31. ^ Hidy, Hidy, and Scott, pp. 57-60.
  32. ^ a b c d e f g h i "Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan: Final". Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks. December 2005. p. 4. Retrieved June 30, 2020.
  33. ^ a b Davis, p. 284.
  34. ^ Flannery, p. 323; Patent and Muñoz, p. 23.
  35. ^ a b c d Puckett, Karl. "Land Deal Would Put Pishkun in FWP Hands." Great Falls Tribune. December 29, 1999.
  36. ^ a b c Skyline Sportsmen's Association v. Board of Land Commissioners, 286 Mont. 108, 951 P2d 29 (1997).
  37. ^ a b c d "Turner Public-Access Agreement Settles Cherry Creek Lawsuit." Associated Press. August 27, 1998.
  38. ^ a b "Land Trade Between Two Agencies Gets OK." Associated Press. December 21, 1998.
  39. ^ a b Puckett, Karl. "Funds Found to Pave Road to Ulm Pishkun." Great Falls Tribune. March 3, 1999.
  40. ^ Clayton, Kathryn. "Montana Has New State Park." Deseret News. February 20, 2000.
  41. ^ Perez, Jennifer. "Tepees Bring Blessing to Ulm Pishkun." Great Falls Tribune. June 2, 2002.
  42. ^ a b c Miller, Jared. "Ulm Pishkun Doubles Its Acreage, Kicks Off Fund Raising." Great Falls Tribune. August 14, 2002.
  43. ^ "Group Seeks to Expand State Park Near Ulm." Associated Press. January 25, 2005. Accessed 2011-05-18.
  44. ^ a b c d e f Newhouse, Eric. "Pishkun Could Double in Size." Great Falls Tribune. January 24, 2005.
  45. ^ a b "Work Horses Placed Near Park to Enhance History Lesson." Associated Press. June 28, 2004.
  46. ^ Lee, Sonja. "Crews Tackle Road to Ulm Buffalo Jump." Great Falls Tribune. March 27, 2005.
  47. ^ a b c "Land Board Recommends Buying Land Near Ulm Pishkun." Associated Press/ July 28, 2006. Accessed 2011-05-18.
  48. ^ a b c d Newhouse, Eric. "State to Buy Second Half of Ulm Pishkun." Great Falls Tribune. July 27, 2006.
  49. ^ a b c "Pishkun Makes Jump Toward the Future." Great Falls Tribune. October 20, 2006.
  50. ^ a b c Newhouse, Eric. "New Program Enables 900-Acre Addition." Great Falls Tribune. October 18, 2006.
  51. ^ a b "FWP Buys Ulm Pishkun Easement." Great Falls Tribune. February 22, 2007.
  52. ^ a b "First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Expands." Great Falls Tribune. March 28, 2010.
  53. ^ "Buffalo Jump Park Expanding Boundaries." Great Falls Tribune. March 29, 2009.
  54. ^ a b Gallagher, Susan. "Agency Looking Into State Park Expansion." Associated Press. March 31, 2009. Accessed 2011-05-18.
  55. ^ a b c d e "First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park". Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife & Parks. Retrieved September 19, 2012.
  56. ^ "Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan: Final". Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks. December 2005. p. 5. Retrieved June 30, 2020.
  57. ^ "Ulm Pishkun Visitor Center Update in Works." Great Falls Tribune. March 19, 2006.
  58. ^ a b c d "Pishkun's Panels Illuminate the Past." Great Falls Tribune. August 23, 2009.
  59. ^ Ecke, Richard. "Ulm Pishkun Unveiled for Legislators." Great Falls Tribune. March 14, 1999.
  60. ^ Dodd, Jeni. "Early Registration for UGF Buffalo Jump Fun Run Ends May 26." Great Falls Tribune. May 22, 2009.
  61. ^ a b Wilmot, Paula. "All-State High School Band to Play 'Buffalo Jump Ritual'." Great Falls Tribune. October 20, 2000.
  62. ^ a b Dodd, Jeni. "Ulm Buffalo Days Celebration Is Today and Saturday." Great Falls Tribune. June 12, 2009.

Bibliography edit

  • Aarstad, Rich; Arguimbau, Ellen; Baumler, Ellen; Prosild, Charlene L.; and Shovers, Brian. Montana Place Names From Alzada to Zortman. Helena, Mont.: Montana Historical Society Press, 2009.
  • Alberta-Montana Heritage Partnership. Alberta-Montana Discovery Guide: Museums, Parks & Historic Sites. Edmonton, Alb.: The Partnership, 1997.
  • Baumler, Ellen. Montana Moments: History on the Go. Helena, Mont.: Montana Historical Society Press, 2010.
  • Cheney, Roberta Carkeek. Names on the Face of Montana: The Story of Montana's Place Names. Missoula, Mont.: University of Montana, 1971.
  • Conklin, David G. Montana History Weekends: Fifty-Two Adventures in History. Guilford, Conn. : Globe Pequot Press, 2002.
  • Davis, Leslie B. "The 20th-Century Commercial Mining of Northern Plains Bison Kills." In Bison Procurement and Utilization: A Symposium. Leslie B. Davis and Michael Wilson, eds. Lincoln, Neb.: Plains Anthropologist, 1978.
  • Dunn, Jerry Camarillo and Kennedy, Roger G. The Rocky Mountain States. New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 1989.
  • Engel, Jeff; Engel, Sherol; and Swan, James A. Chasing the Hunter's Dream: 1001 of the World's Best Duck Marshes, Deer Runs, Elk Meadows, Pheasant Fields, Bear Woods, Safaris, and Extraordinary Hunts. New York: HarperCollins Publishers, 2007.
  • Fifer, Barbara. Along the Trail With Lewis and Clark. Helena, Mont.: Montana Magazine, 2001.
  • Flannery, Timothy. The Eternal Frontier: An Ecological History of North America and Its Peoples. London: Heinemann, 2001.
  • Gale, Kira. Lewis and Clark Road Trips: Exploring the Trail Across America. Omaha, Neb.: River Junction Press, 2006.
  • Gilles, T.J. "History, Horizons, and Hi-Line." In Montana Weekender Road Trips. Helena, Mont.: Montana Magazine, 1999.
  • Gottberg, John; Harris, Richard; and Haselsteiner, Fran. Hidden Rockies: The Adventurer's Guide. Berkeley, Calif.: Ulysses Press, 1995.
  • Graf, Mike. Montana. Mankato, Minn.: Capstone Press, 2004.
  • Halliday, Jan and Chehak, Gail. Native Peoples of the Northwest: A Traveler's Guide to Land, Art, and Culture. Seattle: Sasquatch Books, 2000.
  • Hidy, Ralph W.; Hidy, Muriel E.; and Scott, Roy V. The Great Northern Railway: A History. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2004.
  • Patent, Dorothy Hinshaw and Muñoz, William. The Buffalo and the Indians: A Shared Destiny. New York: Clarion Books, 2006.
  • Punke, Michael. Last Stand: George Bird Grinnell, the Battle to Save the Buffalo, and the Birth of the New West. New York: Smithsonian Books, 2007.
  • Rinella, Steven. American Buffalo: In Search of a Lost Icon. New York: Spiegel & Grau, 2008.
  • Robison, Ken. Cascade County and Great Falls. Charleston, S.C.: Arcadia Publishing, 2011.
  • Schalla, Robert A. and Johnson, Eric H. Montana/Alberta Thrust Belt and Adjacent Foreland. Billings, Mont.: Montana Geological Society, 2000.
  • Wilson, Garrett. Frontier Farewell: The 1870s and the End of the Old West. Regina, Sask.: University of Regina, Canadian Plains Research Center, 2007.
  • Wright, John B. Montana Places: Exploring Big Sky Country. Mesilla, N.M.: New Mexico Geographical Society, 2000.

External links edit

  • First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks
  • First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Trail Map Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks

first, peoples, buffalo, jump, state, park, montana, state, park, national, historic, landmark, cascade, county, montana, united, states, park, acres, sits, elevation, feet, located, about, miles, northwest, small, town, which, near, city, great, falls, contai. First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park is a Montana state park and National Historic Landmark in Cascade County Montana in the United States The park is 1 481 acres 599 ha and sits at an elevation of 3 773 feet 1 150 m 1 It is located about 3 5 miles 5 6 km northwest of the small town of Ulm which is near the city of Great Falls First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park contains the Ulm Pishkun also known as the Ulm Buffalo Jump a historic buffalo jump utilized by the Native American tribes of North America 2 It has been described as geographically speaking either North America s largest buffalo jump 4 5 6 or the world s largest 7 8 There is some evidence that it was the most utilized buffalo jump in the world 9 The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places on December 17 1974 10 and designated a National Historic Landmark in August 2015 11 The former name of the park was derived from the Blackfeet word Pis kun meaning deep kettle of blood and the nearby town of Ulm 12 13 14 First Peoples Buffalo Jump State ParkLocation in MontanaLocationCascade County Montana United StatesNearest cityGreat Falls MontanaCoordinates47 29 23 N 111 31 45 W 47 48972 N 111 52917 W 47 48972 111 52917 1 Area1 481 acres 5 99 km2 Elevation3 773 ft 1 150 m 1 DesignationMontana state parkEstablished1972 2 Named forA buffalo jump and the First Peoples of MontanaVisitors20 280 in 2016 3 AdministratorMontana Fish Wildlife amp ParksWebsiteFirst Peoples Buffalo Jump State ParkAlthough there are more than 300 buffalo kill sites in Montana 15 First People s Buffalo Jump is one of only three protected buffalo jumps in the state The other two are Madison Buffalo Jump near Three Forks and Wahkpa Chu gn near Havre 16 both of which are also on the National Register of Historic Places 10 It may be the largest bison cliff jump in North America 11 Contents 1 History 1 1 Native American use 1 2 Post Native American use 1 3 As a state park 2 Access services and wildlife 2 1 Plants and animals 2 2 Events 3 In popular culture 4 See also 5 Footnotes 6 Bibliography 7 External linksHistory editNative American use edit nbsp Artist s depiction of a buffalo jump in use The site s cliff face is approximately 1 mile 1 6 km long 5 15 17 and has been variously measured at between 30 and 50 feet 9 1 and 15 2 m in height 18 The east west trending cliff is composed of sandstone that is part of the bentonitic Taft Hill Member of the Blackleaf Formation 8 Archeological research and carbon dating of evidence at the site indicates that Native Americans used the site as early as 500 CE 19 However in 2011 park archeologists found a point either a large arrowhead or a spearhead that initial estimates indicated might be as much as 5 000 years old which would force a radical revision in the date of earliest use 20 But this early use appears to be infrequent Most evidence indicates that the pishkun began to be heavily frequented for hunting purposes around 900 CE 21 The site was used as a buffalo jump a place where American bison could be driven up a hill and over a cliff 22 Prior to 1700 CE Native Americans lacked horses Because they utilized dogs as hunting companions and for transportation this time period is known as the Dog Days by many tribes 20 Bison served as a significant food source for many Native American tribes Killing the animals however was difficult as bison are notoriously difficult to herd or capture and can be highly aggressive Buffalo jumps were one way to kill large numbers of the animals at once without many of the risks associated with close proximity ambush Once the animals were driven over the cliff and incapacitated they would be slaughtered and their meat hides and bones used by the hunters to feed and clothe their families and to make various tools and weapons Jumps were rare as ambush was a far more common killing method 19 There is conflicting evidence about what time of year the jumps were used most heavily There is some evidence that bison kills usually occurred between early fall and early spring 23 but evidence of unborn and young calf skeletons at the site indicate that slaughter may have occurred year round 24 Under the most widely accepted scenario 24 hunters would slowly encircle a bison herd several miles from the jump and subtly drive them toward the base of the hill leading up to the cliff 23 24 It s not known how many hunters this required Archeologists theorize that anywhere from 12 to 100 people may have participated 23 Low fences or drive lines of rock and braided vines were built to help funnel the bison toward the summit 24 These fences extended back at least half a mile from the summit 6 About 260 stone piles remnants of these drive lines still exist near the hilltop 25 In 2011 remains of the braided vines were also found at the site 20 As the bison began moving toward the summit hunters perhaps wearing wolf hides would leap up from their hiding places behind the rock fences and begin making loud noises 24 This would begin to stampede the herd so that they could not stop at the cliff face and would plummet over it to their deaths 24 There are oral history traditions among some tribes about buffalo runners swift brave young men who would drape themselves in a buffalo robe and race ahead of the herd to help lead them toward the cliff summit 24 The young man would leap over the cliff and land on a ledge just out of sight below while the herd would plummet over and past him 24 Others primarily women and children would kill any animals who did not die from the fall and butcher all the carcasses 23 24 nbsp American bisonThe slaughtering process changed over time An analysis of the deep piles of bone at the site revealed that the earliest hunters probably just stripped the hides and meat off the dead animals 23 But around 500 CE Native Americans began using fire pits to cook or dry the meat then pulverize it and mix it with dried berries and fat to create pemmican 6 23 Tribespeople also built shallow bowls in the earth and lined them with rock to create primitive cooking pots These cooking devices known as blood kettles were used to boil bison blood so that it would coagulate and to lessen its susceptibility to spoilage 26 Other foods would be mixed with the coagulated blood to form a sort of gelatinous food source high in protein and nutrients or the cooked blood could be used with ground grain to make biscuits 26 People came together under temporary leadership to plan and carry out bison drives and in the huge butchering task that followed Willingness to obey leaders lasted only so long as it was made necessary by the demands of the communal work Communal hunts required leadership and organization but neither was carried over as a permanent feature of the sociopolitical system When the drive and the distribution of dried meat was over the need for leadership was gone and they returned to informal band organizations 27 Several Native American tribes have an oral history which includes the First Peoples Buffalo Jump These include the A aninin Assiniboine Cree Kalispel Piegan Blackfeet Salish and Shoshoni 25 Each of these tribes has its own name for this pishkun 20 There is evidence that other tribes may also have used the pishkun but this is not conclusive 25 The site was used heavily throughout this period There is archeological evidence that members of these tribes camped on and near the pishkun 28 One indication of how frequented the site was is the bone bed which extends along the entire length of the cliff 15 29 and is 13 feet 4 0 m deep 15 21 An archeological estimate based on the number of bones at the site indicates that at least 6 000 bison died there 19 With the arrival of the horse Native American tribes began hunting buffalo from horseback 23 and the pishkun fell into disuse around 1700 CE 21 Post Native American use edit The area that is today known as the state of Montana was made an organized incorporated territory of the United States in 1864 after a series of gold rushes Settlement of the territory was sparse especially the area around the pishkun In 1878 the area containing the First Peoples Buffalo Jump fell under the control of William H Ulm a white settler from Indiana who homesteaded a 1 000 acre 400 ha cattle ranch in the area 30 The pishkun itself was named Taft Hill 8 The nearby city of Great Falls was founded in 1883 and the Montana Central Railway arrived from the booming mining town of Butte passing through Ulm on its way to Great Falls in October 1887 31 The pishkun site became a popular one for members of the public to look for arrowheads and other Native American artifacts 19 From 1889 to 1905 the pishkun was used as a sandstone quarry 6 32 Several buildings in Great Falls and Helena were built with sandstone quarried from the site 32 The state of Montana obtained the site sometime prior to 1945 19 From 1945 to 1947 the need for phosphorus a mineral used in fertilizer and explosives was high The state of Montana leased the site for 7 600 19 to the Frost Fertilizer Company which began mining it for bone 33 More than 150 short tons 140 t of bones were removed from the site pulverized and shipped to the West Coast for use as fertilizer and in explosives manufacturing 34 The site was one of the two largest pishkuns in the United States mined for bison bone 33 A second attempt to mine the site for bone was made in the 1950s But local rancher Earl Monroe who wished to protect the site from further depredation leased the land and kept it off limits to the public 23 As a state park edit nbsp Visitor Center nbsp A map of First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park as of 2011The Montana Department of State Lands now known as the Department of Natural Resources and Conservation purchased a portion of the site in the 1930s The lands were made part of the school trust lands land held in trust for the benefit of the Montana public school system Under a mandate from the Montana Constitution these lands must be managed to obtain the maximum benefit possible 35 Amateur archeological activities began at the site in the 1950s and 1960s which developed archeological evidence about the importance of the site 32 The first efforts to establish a state park occurred shortly thereafter but were unsuccessful 32 In the early 1970s the Montana Historical Society leased the portion of the site owned by the state 23 The historical society turned its lease over to the Montana Fish and Game Commission now the Montana Department of Fish Wildlife and Parks which in 1972 turned the 160 acre 65 ha site into a Montana State Historical Monument 21 The Fish and Game Commission eventually leased the site directly and managed it on behalf of the Department of State Lands 21 From 1972 until 1998 the only amenities at the site were picnic tables and limited signage below the cliffs 21 Local private organizations assisted the Fish and Game Commission in maintaining the site 21 Scientific research funded almost exclusively by private organizations was conducted at the site in the 1990s 21 The park underwent major expansion in the late 1990s In 1993 media mogul Ted Turner who owned large tracts of land in Montana proposed giving the state of Montana 11 630 acres 4 710 ha of land near Alder Montana and 1 059 acres 429 ha at the Ulm pishkun in exchange for the state s releasing 7 486 acres 3 029 ha of land located within Turner s Flying D Ranch located just north of Yellowstone National Park 36 37 The Ulm land ran directly along the cliff face and near the base of the hill leading up to the jump 35 This proposal was rejected but Turner modified the proposal and asked for just 6 167 acres 2 496 ha of state owned land within the Flying D 36 The state accepted the deal in 1996 36 but was sued by four sportsmen s groups who argued that the state was gaining access to low quality fisheries near Alder and losing access to high quality ones on the Flying D 37 The district court issued a summary judgment in favor of the state but the Montana Supreme Court overturned this ruling in Skyline Sportsmen s Association v Board of Land Commissioners 286 Mont 108 951 P2d 29 1997 and remanded the case back to the district court for further proceedings 37 In August 1998 Turner agreed to provide a 20 year conservation easement to give the public access to the fisheries on his land 37 Four months later the state Department of Natural Resources and Conservation DNRC gave 1 070 acres 430 ha of land next to the pishkun to the state Fish and Wildlife Commission in exchange for 1 067 acres 432 ha nearby 38 The DNRC had gotten the land from Turner and the swap occurred to help expand the southern portion of the pishkun by more than a mile 38 The land swap meant that a number of improvements to the park could now go forward The Montana FWP had long sought to build an interpretive center at the site but due to the small amount of land the state owned the project had never received permission 24 Although the land swap was not yet a done deal in 1997 the Montana state legislature approved 950 000 for a new visitor center 39 The center was originally proposed for the top of the cliffs but Native American tribes opposed that site 21 Instead a 6 000 square foot 560 m2 center was sited at the base of the hill leading up to the cliffs 23 A series of major improvements occurred at the site in 1999 Cascade County and the city of Great Falls each contributed 100 000 to widen the 3 5 miles 5 6 km road leading to the pishkun and the state spent 300 000 to pave it 39 When the 2 2 million visitor center opened in May 1999 2 it was the first pishkun visitor center in the state of Montana and the nation 9 The DFWP also engaged in a land swap with the DNRC in December 1999 giving away 630 acres 250 ha of flat land in exchange of 700 acres 280 ha of DNRC land near the base of the hill leading to the jump 35 FWP announced that the land swap would allow it to construct hiking trails from the visitor center to the cliff summit 35 In February 2000 the site was changed from a state monument to a state park and named Ulm Pishkun Buffalo Jump State Park 40 The same year the All Nations Pishkun Association ANPA a group of all Native American tribes in the state was formed to support the park provide educational activities there spread awareness of the park s existence and encourage visitation to the site 41 The park underwent expansion again the following year In 2001 the state traded some excess land at the southern end of the jump for a private landowner s property near the top of the jump a transaction which not only connected all parts of the jump for the first time but which also acquired the cliff for almost its entire length 21 In October a winter wheat field between the cliff and the visitor center was removed and reseeded with native grass 25 Trails about 2 miles 3 2 km long were also constructed in 2001 between the visitor center and the jump cliff 25 The park began to reach its present size in 2002 In August the DFWP leased more than 1 200 acres 490 ha of DNRC land to the west of the park doubling the size of the buffalo jump 42 Additionally two privately leased portions of land next to the park were turned over to the DFWP as well The ANPA leased a 360 acre 150 ha site against the park s border for 2 500 a year while ANPA secretary Brad Hamlett leased a 900 acre 360 ha site to the park s south for 1 600 a year 42 43 The 900 acre section contained the last unprotected segment of the hill as it rose to the cliff face 44 Both leases were assigned to the DFWP for the term of the lease which was 10 years with an option to renew at the end 42 nbsp Wild horses from the Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range like these are stabled at First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Development of educational activities at the pishkun occurred in other ways too In June 2004 the ANPA in cooperation with DFWP and DNRC began housing four Spanish Barb horses at the park 45 The Barbs were obtained from the Bureau of Land Management s Pryor Mountains Wild Horse Range and are direct linear descendants of horses brought by the Spanish to North America in the 16th century 44 45 Efforts to expand the park even further occurred in 2005 State officials began working on yet another land purchase that would permanently double the size of the park 44 In March 2005 the DFWP spent 96 500 to eliminate a hairpin turn on Taft Hill Road reduce the road s grade and lay new gravel on the road which enters the park on its west side and provides vehicular access to the cliff face 46 Park officials also began to worry in 2005 about an infestation of black tailed prairie dogs The prairie dogs which were not native to the area took over an area about 200 acres 81 ha in size denuding it of vegetation and altering the historic appearance of the summit of the buffalo jump 44 Park officials worried that arrowheads and other artifacts were being exposed by the activity of the prairie dogs and that tourists were taking these artifacts from the park 44 The prairie dogs were also destroying the tipi rings and sweat lodges placed at the top of the pishkun 44 The existence of the prairie dogs was also worrisome because the site was so poorly explored In the summer of 2005 as park officials relocated a portion of the hiking trail leading to the top of the cliffs they discovered three blood kettles mere feet from the old trail 26 The 2005 effort to expand the park culminated in 2006 In July the Montana Land Board the state agency which supervises management of the state s school trust lands agreed to buy the 898 acres 363 ha of private land adjacent to the park s northern border for 763 000 and turn over a third of the acreage to the Ulm Buffalo Jump State Park 47 48 Marilyn and Ron Eustace whose family had owned the property since the 1940s had originally proposed a 250 acre 100 ha land swap so that the state park could own more land on top of the cliff 47 But the state offered to buy the cliff top land instead along with the rest of the Eustace family ranch 47 The property had been the top item on the DFWP acquisition list 48 The purchase included the portion of the cliff not already owned by DFWP and a large portion of the cliff and bone bed which had never been mined quarried or disturbed 48 49 Stone and braided vine drive lines and some tipi rings also existed on the Eustace land 49 The purchase was made using funds from the Montana Land Banking program 48 a program established in 2003 that seeks to manage state lands more effectively improve the value of state land increase the earning potential for this land and or reduce the risk to school trust land The Land Board funded the transaction by using a portion of 6 4 million earned from selling an isolated industrial parcel near Kalispell 50 The Ulm pishkun sale was the first purchase the Land Board had ever made 50 The 300 acres 120 ha of land transferred to DFWP was non productive DNRC retained the remaining land and said it intended to lease it for farming or grazing 50 The addition expanded the park to about 2 043 acres 827 ha 49 In February 2007 the DFWP purchased a 334 000 permanent conservation easement on 418 acres 169 ha of the DRNC owned land 51 DFWP would pay a lease fee for five years on the land during which time it would seek funding to pay the easement from the state legislature 51 The easement was purchased in March 2010 20 52 Additional expansion was explored in 2009 In early 2009 the ANPA and Hamlett began seeking a way to have the DNRC transfer the lands they leased to the DFWP and take it out of production as farmland 52 53 On March 30 the DFWP agreed to take over the leases for a year 54 The ANPA and Hamlett suggested that the additional lands be used to house a small group of buffalo 20 or to provide camp sites for visitors 54 But no action had been taken as of April 2011 Access services and wildlife edit nbsp The buffalo jumpEntrance to the north end of the park is via Taft Hill Road which approaches the base of the cliff McIver Road from West Central in Great Falls and to the east end via Ulm Vaughn Road which leads to the visitor s center the slope up the hill and the summit of the cliffs 32 A 2 mile long 3 2 km trail leads from the visitor s center to the cliff summit and back again and includes signage about the buffalo jump along the way as well as a tipi ring a ring of stones which indicate that a tipi was once held in place there 32 There are drinking water facilities garbage cans and public restrooms throughout the park 55 First Peoples Buffalo Jump is managed by Region Four of the Montana state park system and as of 2005 the park was operated by a full time park manager one full time and two seasonal park rangers and a part time maintenance worker 56 The 1 481 acre 599 ha park is open year round 55 The park is reached by road by traveling 10 miles 16 km south of Great Falls on Interstate 15 taking the Ulm exit and then traveling 3 5 miles 5 6 km on Ulm Vaughn Road 55 Alternately from Great Falls it can be accessed via West Central Avenue connecting to McIver Road After 8 5 miles at the T turn left onto Ulm Vaughn Rd after a half mile at the first turn in the road you will arrive at the north entrance Or continue on Ulm Vaughn Road to the road leading to the top of the jump or until you see the sign for the Visitor Center During the summer May October the park is open daily 8 a m to 6 p m in the winter it is open from 10 a m to 4 p m 55 Montana residents do not need to pay a fee to access the park but non residents must pay a 5 00 fee for automobiles or a 3 00 fee for accessing the park via foot or bicycle 55 The visitor s center consists of a main hall describing Native American buffalo culture and how buffalo hunts were organized a room displaying archeological finds from the site a gift shop and restrooms 32 A picnic area is adjacent to the visitor center 32 The fields nearby are also available for use by the public 32 Visitors can see a stuffed bison bull cow and calf a life size tipi made of buffalo hides and a 160 foot 49 m mural depicting the surrounding landscape 9 The importance of bison in modern culture is also emphasized and visitors can view a buffalo nickel coin and a football helmet adorned with the image of a bison 9 The visitor center exhibits were updated in 2006 to improve even further their historical accuracy 57 In 2009 eight new murals were unveiled which updated and provided more information about Montana s Native American tribes 58 Many artifacts such as arrowheads pieces of pottery bone knives and bone scrapers can be found exposed or only slightly buried at First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park 25 It is illegal to disturb these items dig them up or remove them from the park Park rangers should be alerted to the location of these items when they are discovered Plants and animals edit nbsp The prairie rattlesnake can be found at First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Visitors are advised to wear heavy hiking boots when visiting the park A wide variety of plants and animals can be found at the pishkun Among the plant species which grow there are blue grama bluebunch wheatgrass needle and thread grass and prickly pear cactus 25 Wildlife which can be seen there include American badgers black tailed prairie dogs burrowing owls coyotes curlews ferruginous hawks golden eagles gopher snakes gray partridges great horned owls larks mice mountain cottontails mule deer pheasants porcupines pronghorns raccoons racer snakes red tailed hawks Richardson s ground squirrels sharp tailed grouse striped skunks Swainson s hawks western rattlesnakes and yellow bellied marmots 25 Hunting with bow and arrow is available on a limited basis within the park although hunting with firearms is not Bow hunting is limited to those areas furthest away from the trails and other visitor areas 58 Hunters primarily stalk antelope and mule deer within the park 58 Hunting in the park boundaries is not common only 25 hunting permits were issued by the park in 2008 58 Visitors are cautioned to be on the lookout for prairie rattlesnakes which frequent the site Visitors are asked to wear heavy hiking boots watch small children closely and keep pets on a leash 59 Events edit The Native American Cultural Fair is held in the park in late September of each year 23 The event features an art show which often features hand made Native American decorative art and fancy dress traditional Native American games songs demonstrations of buffalo hide tanning and lectures and demonstrations of traditional Native American culture stories and culture 23 Since 2000 the park has also held an atlatl contest each September The event which draws participants from throughout the American West features both accuracy and distance contests as well as atlatl making courses 23 In 2008 the University of Great Falls began hosting an annual Buffalo Jump Fun Run each Memorial Day weekend The event includes a 3 mile 4 8 km walk a 6 25 mile 10 06 km run and a half marathon 60 In popular culture editIn 2000 University of Idaho music professor Dan Bukvich composed Buffalo Jump Ritual a symphonic piece inspired by a 1998 visit Bukvich made to the park 61 Commissioned by the Montana Bandmasters Association for the 2000 all state high school band competition Buffalo Jump Ritual utilizes Native American instruments and melodies as well as rocks crashing against one another as percussion 61 In 2009 the nearby town of Ulm named its annual founding day anniversary event Ulm Buffalo Days in honor of the nearby pishkun 62 The Jumping Buffalo Cafe in Ulm is also named for the site 62 See also editList of National Historic Landmarks in Montana National Register of Historic Places listings in Cascade County MontanaFootnotes edit a b c First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Geographic Names Information System United States Geological Survey January 1 1995 Retrieved October 26 2011 a b c Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan Final Montana Fish Wildlife amp Parks December 2005 p iv Retrieved June 30 2020 2016 Annual Visitation Report Montana State Parks Retrieved June 30 2018 Alberta Montana Heritage Partnership p 272 Gale p 143 Gottberg Harris and Haselsteiner p 579 a b Robison p 13 a b c d Baumler p 15 Wilson p 256 Wright p 7 Conklin p 40 Gilles p 52 a b c Schalla and Johnson p 60 a b c d Puckett Karl Historic Buffalo Jump Site Great Falls Tribune May 30 1999 a b Puckett Karl Bison Kill Site Yields Terrific Old Treasures Great Falls Tribune July 5 1999 a b Sherman David First Peoples Buffalo Jump designated as National Historic Landmark KTVQ Retrieved October 30 2017 Aarstad et al p 272 Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan Final Montana Fish Wildlife amp Parks December 2005 p 1 Retrieved June 30 2020 In March 1999 the Blackfeet tribe of Montana asked that the public and state officials begin calling the site by a new name Kakpayta Peyasu Pishkun or Listening Thunder Pishkun However state officials said that since the site was used by many tribes and not just the Blackfeet the old name would stay See Puckett Karl Group Says It Changed the Name of Ulm Pishkun Great Falls Tribune March 8 1999 a b c d Punke p 35 Graf p 20 Halliday and Chehak p 283 Fifer p 111 Dunn and Kennedy p 367 Engel Engel and Swan p 251 a b c d e f Puckett Karl Whites Indians Alike See Pishkun as Bridge Between Their Cultures Great Falls Tribune March 19 1999 a b c d e f Buffalo Jump Expansion Unearths Gems Great Falls Tribune March 27 2011 Accessed 2011 05 12 a b c d e f g h i j Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan Final Montana Fish Wildlife amp Parks December 2005 p 2 Retrieved June 30 2020 A bison kill site is any place where bison were killed by Native American peoples However most of these sites are dead end canyons narrow or steep defiles steep sided watering holes and similar places where buffalo could be trapped These sites made it difficult for a bison to escape allowing the native hunter to more safely kill the animal or pen one or several animals up for slaughter at leisure Not all bison kill sites are buffalo jumps a buffalo jump is a specific type of bison kill site a b c d e f g h i j k l m Auchly Bruce Where the Buffalo Fell Montana Outdoors September October 2003 Archived from the original on July 2 2011 Retrieved May 18 2011 a b c d e f g h i j Hobbs Nancy The Sacred Buffalo Jump Salt Lake Tribune May 30 1999 a b c d e f g h Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan Final Montana Fish Wildlife amp Parks December 2005 p 3 Retrieved June 30 2020 a b c Lee Sonja Ancient Blood Kettles Discovered Great Falls Tribune February 15 2006 Archaeology of Native North America 2010 Dean R Snow Prentice Hall New York pp 259 260 Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan Final Montana Fish Wildlife amp Parks December 2005 pp 3 4 Retrieved June 30 2020 Rinella p 150 Cheney p 229 Coleman Travis Current and Past Ulm Residents Reminisce on Town s 120th Birthday Great Falls Tribune June 14 2009 Hidy Hidy and Scott pp 57 60 a b c d e f g h i Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan Final Montana Fish Wildlife amp Parks December 2005 p 4 Retrieved June 30 2020 a b Davis p 284 Flannery p 323 Patent and Munoz p 23 a b c d Puckett Karl Land Deal Would Put Pishkun in FWP Hands Great Falls Tribune December 29 1999 a b c Skyline Sportsmen s Association v Board of Land Commissioners 286 Mont 108 951 P2d 29 1997 a b c d Turner Public Access Agreement Settles Cherry Creek Lawsuit Associated Press August 27 1998 a b Land Trade Between Two Agencies Gets OK Associated Press December 21 1998 a b Puckett Karl Funds Found to Pave Road to Ulm Pishkun Great Falls Tribune March 3 1999 Clayton Kathryn Montana Has New State Park Deseret News February 20 2000 Perez Jennifer Tepees Bring Blessing to Ulm Pishkun Great Falls Tribune June 2 2002 a b c Miller Jared Ulm Pishkun Doubles Its Acreage Kicks Off Fund Raising Great Falls Tribune August 14 2002 Group Seeks to Expand State Park Near Ulm Associated Press January 25 2005 Accessed 2011 05 18 a b c d e f Newhouse Eric Pishkun Could Double in Size Great Falls Tribune January 24 2005 a b Work Horses Placed Near Park to Enhance History Lesson Associated Press June 28 2004 Lee Sonja Crews Tackle Road to Ulm Buffalo Jump Great Falls Tribune March 27 2005 a b c Land Board Recommends Buying Land Near Ulm Pishkun Associated Press July 28 2006 Accessed 2011 05 18 a b c d Newhouse Eric State to Buy Second Half of Ulm Pishkun Great Falls Tribune July 27 2006 a b c Pishkun Makes Jump Toward the Future Great Falls Tribune October 20 2006 a b c Newhouse Eric New Program Enables 900 Acre Addition Great Falls Tribune October 18 2006 a b FWP Buys Ulm Pishkun Easement Great Falls Tribune February 22 2007 a b First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Expands Great Falls Tribune March 28 2010 Buffalo Jump Park Expanding Boundaries Great Falls Tribune March 29 2009 a b Gallagher Susan Agency Looking Into State Park Expansion Associated Press March 31 2009 Accessed 2011 05 18 a b c d e First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Montana Department of Fish Wildlife amp Parks Retrieved September 19 2012 Ulm Pishkun State Park Management Plan Final Montana Fish Wildlife amp Parks December 2005 p 5 Retrieved June 30 2020 Ulm Pishkun Visitor Center Update in Works Great Falls Tribune March 19 2006 a b c d Pishkun s Panels Illuminate the Past Great Falls Tribune August 23 2009 Ecke Richard Ulm Pishkun Unveiled for Legislators Great Falls Tribune March 14 1999 Dodd Jeni Early Registration for UGF Buffalo Jump Fun Run Ends May 26 Great Falls Tribune May 22 2009 a b Wilmot Paula All State High School Band to Play Buffalo Jump Ritual Great Falls Tribune October 20 2000 a b Dodd Jeni Ulm Buffalo Days Celebration Is Today and Saturday Great Falls Tribune June 12 2009 Bibliography editAarstad Rich Arguimbau Ellen Baumler Ellen Prosild Charlene L and Shovers Brian Montana Place Names From Alzada to Zortman Helena Mont Montana Historical Society Press 2009 Alberta Montana Heritage Partnership Alberta Montana Discovery Guide Museums Parks amp Historic Sites Edmonton Alb The Partnership 1997 Baumler Ellen Montana Moments History on the Go Helena Mont Montana Historical Society Press 2010 Cheney Roberta Carkeek Names on the Face of Montana The Story of Montana s Place Names Missoula Mont University of Montana 1971 Conklin David G Montana History Weekends Fifty Two Adventures in History Guilford Conn Globe Pequot Press 2002 Davis Leslie B The 20th Century Commercial Mining of Northern Plains Bison Kills In Bison Procurement and Utilization A Symposium Leslie B Davis and Michael Wilson eds Lincoln Neb Plains Anthropologist 1978 Dunn Jerry Camarillo and Kennedy Roger G The Rocky Mountain States New York Stewart Tabori amp Chang 1989 Engel Jeff Engel Sherol and Swan James A Chasing the Hunter s Dream 1001 of the World s Best Duck Marshes Deer Runs Elk Meadows Pheasant Fields Bear Woods Safaris and Extraordinary Hunts New York HarperCollins Publishers 2007 Fifer Barbara Along the Trail With Lewis and Clark Helena Mont Montana Magazine 2001 Flannery Timothy The Eternal Frontier An Ecological History of North America and Its Peoples London Heinemann 2001 Gale Kira Lewis and Clark Road Trips Exploring the Trail Across America Omaha Neb River Junction Press 2006 Gilles T J History Horizons and Hi Line In Montana Weekender Road Trips Helena Mont Montana Magazine 1999 Gottberg John Harris Richard and Haselsteiner Fran Hidden Rockies The Adventurer s Guide Berkeley Calif Ulysses Press 1995 Graf Mike Montana Mankato Minn Capstone Press 2004 Halliday Jan and Chehak Gail Native Peoples of the Northwest A Traveler s Guide to Land Art and Culture Seattle Sasquatch Books 2000 Hidy Ralph W Hidy Muriel E and Scott Roy V The Great Northern Railway A History Minneapolis University of Minnesota Press 2004 Patent Dorothy Hinshaw and Munoz William The Buffalo and the Indians A Shared Destiny New York Clarion Books 2006 Punke Michael Last Stand George Bird Grinnell the Battle to Save the Buffalo and the Birth of the New West New York Smithsonian Books 2007 Rinella Steven American Buffalo In Search of a Lost Icon New York Spiegel amp Grau 2008 Robison Ken Cascade County and Great Falls Charleston S C Arcadia Publishing 2011 Schalla Robert A and Johnson Eric H Montana Alberta Thrust Belt and Adjacent Foreland Billings Mont Montana Geological Society 2000 Wilson Garrett Frontier Farewell The 1870s and the End of the Old West Regina Sask University of Regina Canadian Plains Research Center 2007 Wright John B Montana Places Exploring Big Sky Country Mesilla N M New Mexico Geographical Society 2000 External links edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Montana Fish Wildlife amp Parks First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park Trail Map Montana Fish Wildlife amp Parks Retrieved from https en wikipedia org 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