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Dumfriesshire

Dumfriesshire or the County of Dumfries or Shire of Dumfries (Scottish Gaelic: Siorrachd Dhùn Phris) is a historic county and registration county in southern Scotland. The Dumfries lieutenancy area covers a similar area to the historic county.

Dumfriesshire
CountryScotland
County townDumfries
Area
 • Total1,063 sq mi (2,753 km2)
 Ranked 8th of 34
Chapman code
DFS

In terms of historic counties it borders Kirkcudbrightshire to the west, Ayrshire to the north-west, Lanarkshire, Peeblesshire and Selkirkshire to the north, and Roxburghshire to the east. To the south is the coast of the Solway Firth, and the English county of Cumberland.

Dumfriesshire has three traditional subdivisions, based on the three main valleys in the county: Annandale, Eskdale and Nithsdale. These had been independent provinces in medieval times but were gradually superseded as administrative areas by the area controlled by the sheriff of Dumfries, or Dumfriesshire. A Dumfriesshire County Council existed from 1890 until 1975.

Since 1975, the area of the historic county has formed part of the Dumfries and Galloway council area for local government purposes.

Geography edit

 
The Lowther Hills

The coastline measures 21 miles (34 km). The county slopes very gradually from the mountainous districts of the Southern Uplands in the north, down to the sea; lofty hills alternating in parts with stretches of tableland or rich fertile holms. At various points within a few miles of the Solway are tracts of moss land, like Craigs Moss, Lochar Moss and Longbridge Moor in the west, and Nutberry Moss in the east, all once under water, but since largely reclaimed.[1]

The principal mountains occur near the northern boundaries, the highest being White Coomb (2,695 ft or 821 m), Hart Fell (2,651 ft or 808 m), Saddle Yoke (2,412 ft or 735 m), Swatte Fell (2,389 ft or 728 m), Lowther Hills (2,377 ft or 725 m), Queensbury (2,285 ft or 696 m) and Ettrick Pen (2,269 ft or 692 m).[1]

The three longest rivers are the River Nith, the River Annan and the River Esk, the basins of which form the great dales by which the county is cloven from north to south — Nithsdale, Annandale and Eskdale. From the point where it enters Dumfriesshire, 16 mi (26 km) from its source near Enoch Hill in Ayrshire, the course of the Nith is mainly south-easterly until it enters the Solway, a few miles below Dumfries. Its total length is 65 mi., and its chief affluents are, on the right, the Kello Water, Euchan Water, Scaur Water, Cluden Water and River Cargen, Cargen, and — on the left — the River Crawick, Carron Water and River Campie.[1]

 
The Devil's Beef Tub near Moffat

The Annan rises near the Devil's Beef Tub, a remarkable chasm in the far north, and after flowing about 40 mi (65 km), mainly in a southerly course, it enters the Solway at Barnkirk Headlands and bays. It receives, on the right, the Kinnel Water (reinforced by the Water of Ae), and — on the left — the Moffat Water, the Dryfe Water and the Water of Milk.[1]

From the confluence of the White Esk (rising near Ettrick Pen) and the Black Esk (rising near Jocks Shoulder, 1,754 ft or 535 m) the Esk flows in a gradually south-easterly direction until it crosses the Border, whence it sweeps to the southwest through the extreme north-western territory of Cumberland and falls into the Solway. Of its total course of 42 mi (78 km), 12 mi (20 km) belong to the White Esk, 20 mi (32 km) are of the Esk proper on Scottish soil and 10 mi (16 km) are of the stream in its English course. On the right the Wauchope Water is the chief affluent, and on the left it receives the Meggat Water, Ewes Water, Tarras Water, Liddel Water and River Lyne — the last being an English tributary, and the previous forming the border between Roxburghshire and Cumberland.[1]

Other rivers are the Lochar Water (18 mi or 29 km), the Kirtle Water (17 mi or 27 km) and the River Sark (12 mi or 19 km), all flowing into the Solway. For one mile (1.6 km) of its course the Esk, and for 7 mi (11 km) of its course the River Sark, form the boundaries between Dumfriesshire and Cumberland.[1] Between the Esk and Sark lies Scots' Dyke, a man-made berm that forms the Anglo-Scottish border, cutting through the area formerly known as the Debatable Lands.[2]

Loch Skeen in the north (1750 ft or 533 m above the sea) and the group of lochs around Lochmaben, are the principal lakes. There are few glens so named in the shire, but the passes of Dalveen, Enterkin and Menock, leading up from Nithsdale to the Lowther and other hills, yield to few glens in Scotland in the wild grandeur of their scenery. For part of the way Enterkin Pass runs between mountains rising sheer from the burn to a height of nearly 2,000 ft (610 m) Loch Skene finds an outlet in Tail Burn, the water of which at a short distance from the lake leaps from a height of 200 ft (61 m) in a fine waterfall, known as the Grey Mare's Tail. A much smaller but picturesque fall of the same name, also known as Crichope Linn, occurs on the Crichope near Thornhill. Mineral waters are found at Moffat, Hartfell Spa, some three miles (5 km) farther north, Closeburn and Brow on the Solway.[1]

Geology edit

The greater portion of the county of Dumfries belongs to the Silurian tableland of the south of Scotland which contains representatives of all the divisions of that system from the Arenig to the Ludlow rocks.[1]

By far the largest area is occupied by strata of Tarannon and Llandovery age which cover a belt of country from 20 to 25 mi (32 to 40 km) across from Drumlanrig Castle in the north to Torthorwald in the south. Consisting of massive grits, sometimes conglomeratic, greywackes, flags and shales, these beds are repeated by innumerable folds frequently inverted, striking northeast and southwest and usually dipping towards the northwest. In the midst of this belt there are lenticular bands of older strata of Arenig, Llandeilo, Caradoc and Llandovery age composed of fine sediments such as cherts, black and grey shales, white clays and flags, which come to the surface along anticlinal folds and yield abundant graptolites characteristic of these divisions.[1]

These black shale bands are typically developed in Moffatdale; indeed the three typical sections chosen by Charles Lapworth to illustrate his three great groups:

(1) the Glenkill shales (Upper Llandeilo),
(2) the Hartfell shales (Caradoc),
(3) Birkhill shales (Lower Llandovery) occur respectively in the Glenkill Burn north of Kirkmichael, on Hartfell and in Dobbs Linn near St Mary's Loch in the basin of the river Annan.[1]

In the extreme northwest of the county between Drumlanrig Castle and Dalveen Pass in the south and the Spango and Kello Waters on the north, there is a broad development of Arenig, Liandeilo and Caradoc strata, represented by Radiolarian cherts, black shales, grits, conglomerates, greywackes and shales which rise from underneath the central Tarannon belt and are repeated by innumerable folds, in the cores of the arches of Arenig cherts there are diabase lavas, tuffs and agglomerates which are typically represented on Bail Hill east of Kirkconnel. Along the southern margin of the Tarannon belt, the Wenlock and Ludlow rocks follow in normal order, the boundary between the two being defined by a line extending from the head of the Ewes Water in Eskdale, southwest by Lockerbie to Mouswald. These consist of greywackes, flags and shales with bands of dark graptolite shales, the finer sediments being often well ground. They are likewise repeated by inverted folds, the axial planes being usually inclined to the southeast. The Silurian tableland in the northwest of the county is pierced by intrusive igneous rocks in the form of dikes and bosses, which are regarded as of Lower Old Red Sandstone age. Of these, the granite mass of Spango Water, northeast of Kirkconnel, is an excellent example. Along the northwest margin of the county, on the north side of the fault bounding the Silurian tableland, the Lower Old Red Sandstone occurs, where it consists of sandstones and conglomerates associated with contemporaneous volcanic rocks. The Upper Old Red Sandstone forms a narrow strip on the south side of the Silurian tableland, resting uncomfortably on the Silurian rocks and passing upwards into the Carboniferous formation. It stretches from the county boundary east of the Ewes Water, southwest by Langholm to Birrenswark. Along this line these Upper Red sandstones and shales are overlaid by a thin zone of volcanic rocks which point to contemporaneous volcanic action in this region at the beginning of the Carboniferous period. Some of the vents from which these igneous materials may have been discharged are found along the watershed between Liddesdale and Teviotdale in Roxburghshire.[1]

The strata of Carboniferous age are found in three areas:

(1) between Sanquhar and Kirkconnel,
(2) at Closeburn near Thornhill,
(3) in the district between Liddesdale and Ruthwell.[1]

In the first two instances (Sanquhar and Thornhill) the Carboniferous sediments lie in hollows worn out of the old Silurian tableland. In the Sanquhar basin the strata belong to the Coal Measures, and include several valuable coal-seams which are probably the southern prolongations of the members of this division in Ayrshire. At the S.E. limit of the Sanquhar Coalfield there are patches of the Carboniferous Limestone series, but towards the N. these are overlapped by the Coal Measures which thus rest directly on the Silurian platform. At Closeburn and Barjarg there are beds of marine limestone, associated with sandstones and shales which probably represent marine bands in the Carboniferous Limestone series.[1]

The most important development of Carboniferous strata occurs between Liddesdale and Ruthwell. In the valleys of the Liddel and the Esk the following zones are represented, which are given in ascending order:

(1) The Whita Sandstone,
(2) the Cementstone group,
(3) the Fell Sandstone,
(4) the Glencartholm Volcanic Group,
(5) Marine limestone group with Coal-seams,
(6) Millstone Grit,
(7) Rowanburn coal group,
(8) Byreburn coal group,
(9) Red Sandstones of Canonbie yielding plants characteristic of the Upper Coal Measures.[1]

The coal seams of the Rowanburn field have been chiefly wrought, and in view of their exhaustion bores have been sunk to prove the coals beneath the red sandstone of upper Carboniferous age. From a palaeontological point of view the Glencartholm volcanic zone is of special interest, as the calcareous shale associated with the tuffs has yielded a large number of new species of fishes, decapod crustaceans, phyllopods and scorpions. The Triassic rocks rest uncomfortably on all older formations within the county. In the tract along the Solway Firth they repose on the folded and eroded edges of the Carboniferous strata, and when traced westwards to the Dumfries basin they rest directly on the Silurian platform. They occur in five areas:

(1) between Annan and the mouth of the Esk (the Scottish portion of the Solway Basin),
(2) the Dumfries basin (Lower Nithsdale),
(3) the Thornhill basin (Middle Nithsdale),
(4) the Lochmaben basin (Middle Annandale),
(5) Upper Annandale.[1]

The strata consist of breccias, falsebedded sandstones and mans, the sandstones being extensively quarried for building purposes. In the sandstones of Corncockle Moor reptilian footprints have been obtained. In the Thornhill basin there is a thin zone of volcanic rocks at the base of this series which are evidently on-the horizon of the lavas beneath the Mauchline sandstones in Ayrshire. In the Sanquhar basin there are small outliers of lavas probably of this age and several vents filled with agglomerate from which these igneous materials in the Thornhill basin may have been derived. There are several striking examples of basalt dikes of Tertiary age, one having been traced from the Lead Hills south-east by Moffat, across Eskdalemuir to the English border.[1]

Climate and industries edit

The climate is mild, with a mean annual temperature of around 9 °C (48 °F) (January, 3.6 °C (38.5 °F); July, 15.3 °C (59.5 °F)), and the average annual rainfall is 53 in. Towards the middle of the 18th century farmers began to raise stock for the south, and a hundred years later 20,000 head of heavy cattle were sent yearly to the English markets. The Galloways, which were the breed in vogue at first, have been to a large extent replaced by shorthorns and Ayrshire dairy cattle. Sheep breeding, of later origin, has attained to remarkable dimensions, the walks in the higher hilly country being given over to Cheviots, and the richer pasture of the low-lying farms being reserved for half-bred lambs, a cross of Cheviots and Leicesters or other long-woolled rams. Pig-feeding, once important, has declined before the imports of bacon from foreign countries. Horse breeding is pursued on a considerable scale. Grain crops, of which oats are the principal, show a downward tendency. Arable farms range from 100 acres (0.40 km2) to 300 acres (0.4 to 1.2 km2), and pastoral from 300 to 3000 acres (1.2 to 12 km2).[1]

In general the industries are only of local importance and mostly confined to Dumfries and a few of the larger towns. Langholm is famous for its tweeds; breweries and distilleries are found at Annan, Sanquhar and elsewhere; some shipping is carried on at Annan and Dumfries; and the salmon fisheries of the Nith and Annan and the Solway Firth are of value.[1]

Communications edit

 
Annan railway station, built in 1848

As built, the Glasgow and South Western Railway from Glasgow to Carlisle runs through Nithsdale to Dumfries, practically following the course of the River Nith, then on to Annan and lower Annandale to the English border at Gretna. A branch was built from Dumfries to Moniaive, the Cairn Valley Light Railway, but this closed in 1949.

The Caledonian Railway from Carlisle to Glasgow runs through Annandale, which threw off at Beattock a small branch to Moffat, now closed. At Lockerbie a cross-country line to Dumfries (now closed), and at Kirtlebridge a line that ultimately crossed the Solway to Bowness which is also closed.

From Dumfries westwards there were rail communications on the 'Port Road' to Castle Douglas, Newton Stewart, Stranraer and Portpatrick, with branches to Kirkcudbright and Wigtown all closed and lifted.

The North British Railway's Waverley route, to Edinburgh from Carlisle was closed in the 1960s. There are vague plans to reopen this line to Carlisle as a continuation of the new rail link from Edinburgh to Tweedbank opened in 2015. Until 1967 the North British Railway sent a short line to Langholm (via Canonbie and Gilnockie) from Riddings Junction in Cumberland, giving access to Carlisle. The last passenger train ran on the Langholm branch on 26 March 1967, the last freight service on 17 September in the same year, and the track was lifted shortly thereafter.

There is also an extensive local bus and coach network throughout the county, centred on Dumfries.

There are no commercial airports in the county.

Settlements edit

 
Annan
 
Dumfries
 
Dunscore
 
Langholm
 
Lochmaben
 
Moffat
 
Wanlockhead

History edit

 
The Ruthwell Cross
 
County Buildings, the former headquarters of Dumfriesshire County Council, and since 1975 the headquarters of Dumfries and Galloway Council.

Archaeological remains from the neolithic and Bronze Age include stone circles (as in Dunscore and Eskdalemuir), tumuli and cairns (Closeburn), and sculptured stones (Dornock).[1] A number of bank barrows and cursus have recently been discovered.

The British tribe which inhabited this part of Scotland was called by the Romans Selgovae. They have left many signs of their presence, such as hill forts and camps (Dryfesdale). The country around Moffat especially is rich in remains.[1]

There are traces of the Roman roads which ran by Dalveen Pass into Clydesdale and up the Annan to Tweeddale, and the ruins of Blatobulgium at Birrens is one of the best-preserved examples of a Roman camp. Roman altars, urns, and coins are found in many places.[1]

After the withdrawal of Roman power from Britain, the situation in Dumfries is not clear. The Selgovae were pressured by the power of Strathclyde, by Scots from Ireland, and the Angles from Northumberland. There is little writing preserved from this time, and that which did is ecclesiastical in nature. Archaeology, although rich on the ground, has rarely been investigated, and place names, used as an indication of influence, are still argued over by academics.

In the parish church of Ruthwell (pron. Rivvel: the rood, or cross, well) is preserved an ancient Anglo-Saxon cross which tells in Runic characters the story of the Crucifixion. The Saxon conquest of Dumfriesshire does not seem to have been thorough in the West, the people of Nithsdale and elsewhere maintaining some Celtic institutions up to the time of David I, although this is not certain.[1] Around 50 fragments of gilt bronze mounts found in Dumfriesshire and now at the national museum were probably originally attached to a portable wooden cross, c. 750 – c. 800AD.[3][4]

As a Border county Dumfriesshire was the scene of stirring deeds at various epochs, especially in the days of Robert Bruce. Edward I besieged Caerlaverock Castle, and the factions of Bruce (who was lord of Annandale), John Comyn and John Baliol were at constant feud. The Border clans were always at strife. There is record of a bloody fight in Dryfesdale in 1593, when the Johnstones slew 700 Maxwells, and, overtaking the fugitives at Lockerbie, there massacred most of the remnant. These factions embroiled the dalesmen until the 18th century. The highlands of the shire afforded retreat to the persecuted Covenanters, who, at Sanquhar, published in 1680 their declaration against the king, anticipating the principles of the glorious Revolution by several years. Prince Charles Edward’s ambition left the shire comparatively untouched, for the Jacobite sentiment made little appeal to the people.[1]

 
Craigenputtock House 1829

Dumfriesshire is inseparably connected with the name of Robert Burns, who farmed at Ellisland Farm on the Nith for three years, and spent the last five years of his life in Dumfries. Thomas Carlyle was born at Ecclefechan, in a house still standing, and was buried beside his parents in the kirkyard of the old Secession church (now the United Free). His farm of Craigenputtock was left to Edinburgh University in order to found the John Welsh bursaries in classics and mathematics.[1]

Folk history suggests that at Holywood, near Dumfries, there stand the relic of the grove of sacred oaks from which the place derived its name, and a stone circle known locally as the Twelve Apostles.[1]

In 1988 Dumfriesshire was the site of the Lockerbie bombing, in which a bomb exploded on an aircraft flying over the town of Lockerbie, killing a total of 270 people. It remains the worst single terrorist attack in British history.[5]

Administrative history edit

The origins of Dumfriesshire as a county or shire are obscure. There was certainly a shire of Dumfries by 1305, with some suggestion that it had existed from the twelfth century. Annandale and Eskdale retained a degree of independence from the sheriff of Dumfries, leaving the sheriff's practical control focussed on the Nithsdale area until 1747 when the separate jurisdictions of Annandale and Eskdale were ended under the Heritable Jurisdictions (Scotland) Act 1746.[6]

Commissioners of Supply were created in 1667 for each shire, and formed the main administrative body for the area until county councils were created in 1890 under the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889. The 1889 act also led to a review of boundaries of many of Scotland's counties; in the case of Dumfriesshire the two parishes of Moffat and Kirkpatrick-Juxta which had previously both straddled Dumfriesshire and Lanarkshire were brought entirely within Dumfriesshire.[7] Dumfriesshire County Council was based at County Buildings in English Street.[8] In May 1975 the county council was abolished and its functions were transferred to Dumfries and Galloway Regional Council under the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973. Two lower-tier district councils were created from parts of Dumfriesshire, being Annandale and Eskdale covering the east of the county and Nithsdale covering the west of the county and a small part of neighbouring Kirkcudbrightshire.[9]

For lieutenancy purposes, the last lord-lieutenant of the county of Dumfriesshire was made lord-lieutenant for the combined area of the Nithsdale and Annandale and Eskdale districts when the reforms came into effect in 1975.[10] The districts were abolished in 1996, with their functions passing to Dumfries and Galloway Council. The Dumfries lieutenancy area continues to cover the combined area of the pre-1996 Nithsdale and Annandale and Eskdale districts.[11]

Historical population figures edit

 
Dumfriesshire Civil Parish map. Published 1854. https://archive.org/stream/imperialgazettee01wils#page/n542/mode/1up Boundaries outlined in red

The population in 1891 was 74,245, and in 1901, 72,371, when there were 176 persons who spoke Gaelic and English.[1]

Of the chief towns:

  • Annan (pop. in 1901, 4,309 pop. in 1951 4,631, in 2001 8,389),
  • Dumfries (pop. in 1901, 14,440, pop. in 1951 26,322, in 2001 37,846),
  • Langholm (pop. in 1901, 3,142, pop. in 1951 2,404, in 2001 2,311),
  • Lockerbie (pop. in 1901, 2,358, pop. in 1951 2,621, in 2001 4,009),
  • Moffat (pop. in 1901, 2,530, pop. in 1951 2,114).

Places of interest edit

Outdoor activities edit

There are three of the world class 7Stanes[12] mountain biking centres in Dumfriesshire at Dalbeattie, Mabie and Ae. The Sustrans Route 7[13] long-distance cycle route also runs through the Dumfriesshire. There is excellent hill walking in the Moffat Hills.[14] The Southern Upland Way[15] coast to coast walk passes through Dumfriesshire and the 53 mile long Annandale Way[16] travels from the Solway Firth into the Moffat hills near the Devil's Beef Tub. There is also sailing on Castle Loch at Lochmaben.[17]

People edit

Notable people from Dumfriesshire include:

References edit

Primary sources edit

  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z   One or more of the preceding sentences incorporates text from a publication now in the public domainChisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Dumfriesshire". Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 8 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 663.
  2. ^ Wickham-Jones, C. R. (2009), The Landscape of Scotland. Stroud : The History Press. ISBN 978-0-7524-1484-3. pp. 157 - 158.
  3. ^ National Museum of Scotland.
  4. ^ Wegner 2006, pp. 59–80.
  5. ^ . panamair.org. 2007. Archived from the original on 26 March 2008. Retrieved 8 June 2008.
  6. ^ Chalmers, George (1824). "Of its establishment as a Shire". Caledonia. London. pp. 68–70. Retrieved 6 December 2022.
  7. ^ Shennan, Hay (1892). Boundaries of counties and parishes in Scotland as settled by the Boundary Commissioners under the Local Government (Scotland) Act, 1889. Edinburgh: W. Green. p. 337. Retrieved 6 December 2022.
  8. ^ Historic Environment Scotland. "English Street, County Buildings (LB26174)". Retrieved 18 July 2021.
  9. ^ "Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973", legislation.gov.uk, The National Archives, 1973 c. 65, retrieved 22 November 2022
  10. ^ "The Lord-Lieutenants Order 1975", legislation.gov.uk, The National Archives, SI 1975/428, retrieved 27 November 2022
  11. ^ "The Lord-Lieutenants (Scotland) Order 1996", legislation.gov.uk, The National Archives, SI 1996/731, retrieved 25 November 2022
  12. ^ Website for the 7Stanes Mountain Bike Trails.
  13. ^ Route 7 on Sustrans website 10 March 2013 at the Wayback Machine
  14. ^ Website with walking routes in the Moffat hills
  15. ^ . Archived from the original on 29 April 2012. Retrieved 23 February 2012.
  16. ^ Annandale Way website
  17. ^ Annandale Sailing Club's website

Secondary sources edit

  • National Museum of Scotland. Fragments of gilt bronze mounts, From Dumfriesshire. National Museum Scotland.
  • Wegner, Timo (2006). James Williams; R. McEwen (eds.). (PDF). Vol. Transactions of the Dumfriesshire and Galloway Natural History and Antiquarian Society (Third series volume LXXX ed.). Council of the Society. pp. 59–80. Archived from the original (PDF) on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 5 January 2017.

Further reading edit

  • W. M'Dowall, History of the Burgh of Dumfries (Edinburgh, 1887);
  • Sir Herbert Maxwell, Dumfries and Galloway (Edinburgh and London, 1897);
  • J. Macdonald and J. Barbour, Birrens and its Antiquities (Dumfries, 1897);
  • Sir William Fraser, The Book of Carlaverock (Edinburgh, 1873); The Douglas Book (Edinburgh, 1885);
  • The Annandale Book (Edinburgh, 1894);
  • G. Neilson, Annandale under the Bruces (Annan, 1887);
  • C. T. Ramage, Drumlanrig Castle and the Douglases (Dumfries, 1876).

External links edit

55°10′N 3°30′W / 55.167°N 3.500°W / 55.167; -3.500

dumfriesshire, county, dumfries, shire, dumfries, scottish, gaelic, siorrachd, dhùn, phris, historic, county, registration, county, southern, scotland, dumfries, lieutenancy, area, covers, similar, area, historic, county, historic, countycountryscotlandcounty,. Dumfriesshire or the County of Dumfries or Shire of Dumfries Scottish Gaelic Siorrachd Dhun Phris is a historic county and registration county in southern Scotland The Dumfries lieutenancy area covers a similar area to the historic county DumfriesshireHistoric countyCountryScotlandCounty townDumfriesArea Total1 063 sq mi 2 753 km2 Ranked 8th of 34Chapman codeDFSIn terms of historic counties it borders Kirkcudbrightshire to the west Ayrshire to the north west Lanarkshire Peeblesshire and Selkirkshire to the north and Roxburghshire to the east To the south is the coast of the Solway Firth and the English county of Cumberland Dumfriesshire has three traditional subdivisions based on the three main valleys in the county Annandale Eskdale and Nithsdale These had been independent provinces in medieval times but were gradually superseded as administrative areas by the area controlled by the sheriff of Dumfries or Dumfriesshire A Dumfriesshire County Council existed from 1890 until 1975 Since 1975 the area of the historic county has formed part of the Dumfries and Galloway council area for local government purposes Contents 1 Geography 2 Geology 3 Climate and industries 4 Communications 5 Settlements 6 History 6 1 Administrative history 7 Historical population figures 8 Places of interest 9 Outdoor activities 10 People 11 References 11 1 Primary sources 11 2 Secondary sources 11 3 Further reading 12 External linksGeography edit nbsp The Lowther HillsThe coastline measures 21 miles 34 km The county slopes very gradually from the mountainous districts of the Southern Uplands in the north down to the sea lofty hills alternating in parts with stretches of tableland or rich fertile holms At various points within a few miles of the Solway are tracts of moss land like Craigs Moss Lochar Moss and Longbridge Moor in the west and Nutberry Moss in the east all once under water but since largely reclaimed 1 The principal mountains occur near the northern boundaries the highest being White Coomb 2 695 ft or 821 m Hart Fell 2 651 ft or 808 m Saddle Yoke 2 412 ft or 735 m Swatte Fell 2 389 ft or 728 m Lowther Hills 2 377 ft or 725 m Queensbury 2 285 ft or 696 m and Ettrick Pen 2 269 ft or 692 m 1 The three longest rivers are the River Nith the River Annan and the River Esk the basins of which form the great dales by which the county is cloven from north to south Nithsdale Annandale and Eskdale From the point where it enters Dumfriesshire 16 mi 26 km from its source near Enoch Hill in Ayrshire the course of the Nith is mainly south easterly until it enters the Solway a few miles below Dumfries Its total length is 65 mi and its chief affluents are on the right the Kello Water Euchan Water Scaur Water Cluden Water and River Cargen Cargen and on the left the River Crawick Carron Water and River Campie 1 nbsp The Devil s Beef Tub near MoffatThe Annan rises near the Devil s Beef Tub a remarkable chasm in the far north and after flowing about 40 mi 65 km mainly in a southerly course it enters the Solway at Barnkirk Headlands and bays It receives on the right the Kinnel Water reinforced by the Water of Ae and on the left the Moffat Water the Dryfe Water and the Water of Milk 1 From the confluence of the White Esk rising near Ettrick Pen and the Black Esk rising near Jocks Shoulder 1 754 ft or 535 m the Esk flows in a gradually south easterly direction until it crosses the Border whence it sweeps to the southwest through the extreme north western territory of Cumberland and falls into the Solway Of its total course of 42 mi 78 km 12 mi 20 km belong to the White Esk 20 mi 32 km are of the Esk proper on Scottish soil and 10 mi 16 km are of the stream in its English course On the right the Wauchope Water is the chief affluent and on the left it receives the Meggat Water Ewes Water Tarras Water Liddel Water and River Lyne the last being an English tributary and the previous forming the border between Roxburghshire and Cumberland 1 Other rivers are the Lochar Water 18 mi or 29 km the Kirtle Water 17 mi or 27 km and the River Sark 12 mi or 19 km all flowing into the Solway For one mile 1 6 km of its course the Esk and for 7 mi 11 km of its course the River Sark form the boundaries between Dumfriesshire and Cumberland 1 Between the Esk and Sark lies Scots Dyke a man made berm that forms the Anglo Scottish border cutting through the area formerly known as the Debatable Lands 2 Loch Skeen in the north 1750 ft or 533 m above the sea and the group of lochs around Lochmaben are the principal lakes There are few glens so named in the shire but the passes of Dalveen Enterkin and Menock leading up from Nithsdale to the Lowther and other hills yield to few glens in Scotland in the wild grandeur of their scenery For part of the way Enterkin Pass runs between mountains rising sheer from the burn to a height of nearly 2 000 ft 610 m Loch Skene finds an outlet in Tail Burn the water of which at a short distance from the lake leaps from a height of 200 ft 61 m in a fine waterfall known as the Grey Mare s Tail A much smaller but picturesque fall of the same name also known as Crichope Linn occurs on the Crichope near Thornhill Mineral waters are found at Moffat Hartfell Spa some three miles 5 km farther north Closeburn and Brow on the Solway 1 Geology editThe greater portion of the county of Dumfries belongs to the Silurian tableland of the south of Scotland which contains representatives of all the divisions of that system from the Arenig to the Ludlow rocks 1 By far the largest area is occupied by strata of Tarannon and Llandovery age which cover a belt of country from 20 to 25 mi 32 to 40 km across from Drumlanrig Castle in the north to Torthorwald in the south Consisting of massive grits sometimes conglomeratic greywackes flags and shales these beds are repeated by innumerable folds frequently inverted striking northeast and southwest and usually dipping towards the northwest In the midst of this belt there are lenticular bands of older strata of Arenig Llandeilo Caradoc and Llandovery age composed of fine sediments such as cherts black and grey shales white clays and flags which come to the surface along anticlinal folds and yield abundant graptolites characteristic of these divisions 1 These black shale bands are typically developed in Moffatdale indeed the three typical sections chosen by Charles Lapworth to illustrate his three great groups 1 the Glenkill shales Upper Llandeilo 2 the Hartfell shales Caradoc 3 Birkhill shales Lower Llandovery occur respectively in the Glenkill Burn north of Kirkmichael on Hartfell and in Dobbs Linn near St Mary s Loch in the basin of the river Annan 1 In the extreme northwest of the county between Drumlanrig Castle and Dalveen Pass in the south and the Spango and Kello Waters on the north there is a broad development of Arenig Liandeilo and Caradoc strata represented by Radiolarian cherts black shales grits conglomerates greywackes and shales which rise from underneath the central Tarannon belt and are repeated by innumerable folds in the cores of the arches of Arenig cherts there are diabase lavas tuffs and agglomerates which are typically represented on Bail Hill east of Kirkconnel Along the southern margin of the Tarannon belt the Wenlock and Ludlow rocks follow in normal order the boundary between the two being defined by a line extending from the head of the Ewes Water in Eskdale southwest by Lockerbie to Mouswald These consist of greywackes flags and shales with bands of dark graptolite shales the finer sediments being often well ground They are likewise repeated by inverted folds the axial planes being usually inclined to the southeast The Silurian tableland in the northwest of the county is pierced by intrusive igneous rocks in the form of dikes and bosses which are regarded as of Lower Old Red Sandstone age Of these the granite mass of Spango Water northeast of Kirkconnel is an excellent example Along the northwest margin of the county on the north side of the fault bounding the Silurian tableland the Lower Old Red Sandstone occurs where it consists of sandstones and conglomerates associated with contemporaneous volcanic rocks The Upper Old Red Sandstone forms a narrow strip on the south side of the Silurian tableland resting uncomfortably on the Silurian rocks and passing upwards into the Carboniferous formation It stretches from the county boundary east of the Ewes Water southwest by Langholm to Birrenswark Along this line these Upper Red sandstones and shales are overlaid by a thin zone of volcanic rocks which point to contemporaneous volcanic action in this region at the beginning of the Carboniferous period Some of the vents from which these igneous materials may have been discharged are found along the watershed between Liddesdale and Teviotdale in Roxburghshire 1 The strata of Carboniferous age are found in three areas 1 between Sanquhar and Kirkconnel 2 at Closeburn near Thornhill 3 in the district between Liddesdale and Ruthwell 1 In the first two instances Sanquhar and Thornhill the Carboniferous sediments lie in hollows worn out of the old Silurian tableland In the Sanquhar basin the strata belong to the Coal Measures and include several valuable coal seams which are probably the southern prolongations of the members of this division in Ayrshire At the S E limit of the Sanquhar Coalfield there are patches of the Carboniferous Limestone series but towards the N these are overlapped by the Coal Measures which thus rest directly on the Silurian platform At Closeburn and Barjarg there are beds of marine limestone associated with sandstones and shales which probably represent marine bands in the Carboniferous Limestone series 1 The most important development of Carboniferous strata occurs between Liddesdale and Ruthwell In the valleys of the Liddel and the Esk the following zones are represented which are given in ascending order 1 The Whita Sandstone 2 the Cementstone group 3 the Fell Sandstone 4 the Glencartholm Volcanic Group 5 Marine limestone group with Coal seams 6 Millstone Grit 7 Rowanburn coal group 8 Byreburn coal group 9 Red Sandstones of Canonbie yielding plants characteristic of the Upper Coal Measures 1 The coal seams of the Rowanburn field have been chiefly wrought and in view of their exhaustion bores have been sunk to prove the coals beneath the red sandstone of upper Carboniferous age From a palaeontological point of view the Glencartholm volcanic zone is of special interest as the calcareous shale associated with the tuffs has yielded a large number of new species of fishes decapod crustaceans phyllopods and scorpions The Triassic rocks rest uncomfortably on all older formations within the county In the tract along the Solway Firth they repose on the folded and eroded edges of the Carboniferous strata and when traced westwards to the Dumfries basin they rest directly on the Silurian platform They occur in five areas 1 between Annan and the mouth of the Esk the Scottish portion of the Solway Basin 2 the Dumfries basin Lower Nithsdale 3 the Thornhill basin Middle Nithsdale 4 the Lochmaben basin Middle Annandale 5 Upper Annandale 1 The strata consist of breccias falsebedded sandstones and mans the sandstones being extensively quarried for building purposes In the sandstones of Corncockle Moor reptilian footprints have been obtained In the Thornhill basin there is a thin zone of volcanic rocks at the base of this series which are evidently on the horizon of the lavas beneath the Mauchline sandstones in Ayrshire In the Sanquhar basin there are small outliers of lavas probably of this age and several vents filled with agglomerate from which these igneous materials in the Thornhill basin may have been derived There are several striking examples of basalt dikes of Tertiary age one having been traced from the Lead Hills south east by Moffat across Eskdalemuir to the English border 1 Climate and industries editThe climate is mild with a mean annual temperature of around 9 C 48 F January 3 6 C 38 5 F July 15 3 C 59 5 F and the average annual rainfall is 53 in Towards the middle of the 18th century farmers began to raise stock for the south and a hundred years later 20 000 head of heavy cattle were sent yearly to the English markets The Galloways which were the breed in vogue at first have been to a large extent replaced by shorthorns and Ayrshire dairy cattle Sheep breeding of later origin has attained to remarkable dimensions the walks in the higher hilly country being given over to Cheviots and the richer pasture of the low lying farms being reserved for half bred lambs a cross of Cheviots and Leicesters or other long woolled rams Pig feeding once important has declined before the imports of bacon from foreign countries Horse breeding is pursued on a considerable scale Grain crops of which oats are the principal show a downward tendency Arable farms range from 100 acres 0 40 km2 to 300 acres 0 4 to 1 2 km2 and pastoral from 300 to 3000 acres 1 2 to 12 km2 1 In general the industries are only of local importance and mostly confined to Dumfries and a few of the larger towns Langholm is famous for its tweeds breweries and distilleries are found at Annan Sanquhar and elsewhere some shipping is carried on at Annan and Dumfries and the salmon fisheries of the Nith and Annan and the Solway Firth are of value 1 Communications edit nbsp Annan railway station built in 1848As built the Glasgow and South Western Railway from Glasgow to Carlisle runs through Nithsdale to Dumfries practically following the course of the River Nith then on to Annan and lower Annandale to the English border at Gretna A branch was built from Dumfries to Moniaive the Cairn Valley Light Railway but this closed in 1949 The Caledonian Railway from Carlisle to Glasgow runs through Annandale which threw off at Beattock a small branch to Moffat now closed At Lockerbie a cross country line to Dumfries now closed and at Kirtlebridge a line that ultimately crossed the Solway to Bowness which is also closed From Dumfries westwards there were rail communications on the Port Road to Castle Douglas Newton Stewart Stranraer and Portpatrick with branches to Kirkcudbright and Wigtown all closed and lifted The North British Railway s Waverley route to Edinburgh from Carlisle was closed in the 1960s There are vague plans to reopen this line to Carlisle as a continuation of the new rail link from Edinburgh to Tweedbank opened in 2015 Until 1967 the North British Railway sent a short line to Langholm via Canonbie and Gilnockie from Riddings Junction in Cumberland giving access to Carlisle The last passenger train ran on the Langholm branch on 26 March 1967 the last freight service on 17 September in the same year and the track was lifted shortly thereafter There is also an extensive local bus and coach network throughout the county centred on Dumfries There are no commercial airports in the county Settlements edit nbsp Annan nbsp Dumfries nbsp Dunscore nbsp Langholm nbsp Lochmaben nbsp Moffat nbsp WanlockheadAnnan Applegarthtown Arkleton Beattock Bentpath Boreland Burnfoot Burnhead Caerlaverock Canonbie Carronbridge Claygate Closeburn Collin Cummertrees Dalton Dornock Dryfesdale Dumfries Dunscore Durisdeer Eaglesfield Eastriggs Ecclefechan Eskdalemuir Glencairn Gretna Gretna Green Half Morton Harelaw Hoddom Holywood Johnstonebridge Keir Kelloholm Kirkconnel Kirkmahoe Kirkpatrick Fleming Kirkpatrick Juxta Kirkstyle Kirtlebridge Langholm Locharbriggs Lochmaben Lockerbie Mennock Middlebie Moffat Mouswald Newbie Newton Wamphray Penpont Powfoot Rigg Rowanburn Ruthwell Sanquhar Thornhill Tinwald Torthorwald Tundergarth Tynron Wanlockhead Waterbeck WesterkirkHistory edit nbsp The Ruthwell Cross nbsp County Buildings the former headquarters of Dumfriesshire County Council and since 1975 the headquarters of Dumfries and Galloway Council Archaeological remains from the neolithic and Bronze Age include stone circles as in Dunscore and Eskdalemuir tumuli and cairns Closeburn and sculptured stones Dornock 1 A number of bank barrows and cursus have recently been discovered The British tribe which inhabited this part of Scotland was called by the Romans Selgovae They have left many signs of their presence such as hill forts and camps Dryfesdale The country around Moffat especially is rich in remains 1 There are traces of the Roman roads which ran by Dalveen Pass into Clydesdale and up the Annan to Tweeddale and the ruins of Blatobulgium at Birrens is one of the best preserved examples of a Roman camp Roman altars urns and coins are found in many places 1 After the withdrawal of Roman power from Britain the situation in Dumfries is not clear The Selgovae were pressured by the power of Strathclyde by Scots from Ireland and the Angles from Northumberland There is little writing preserved from this time and that which did is ecclesiastical in nature Archaeology although rich on the ground has rarely been investigated and place names used as an indication of influence are still argued over by academics In the parish church of Ruthwell pron Rivvel the rood or cross well is preserved an ancient Anglo Saxon cross which tells in Runic characters the story of the Crucifixion The Saxon conquest of Dumfriesshire does not seem to have been thorough in the West the people of Nithsdale and elsewhere maintaining some Celtic institutions up to the time of David I although this is not certain 1 Around 50 fragments of gilt bronze mounts found in Dumfriesshire and now at the national museum were probably originally attached to a portable wooden cross c 750 c 800 AD 3 4 As a Border county Dumfriesshire was the scene of stirring deeds at various epochs especially in the days of Robert Bruce Edward I besieged Caerlaverock Castle and the factions of Bruce who was lord of Annandale John Comyn and John Baliol were at constant feud The Border clans were always at strife There is record of a bloody fight in Dryfesdale in 1593 when the Johnstones slew 700 Maxwells and overtaking the fugitives at Lockerbie there massacred most of the remnant These factions embroiled the dalesmen until the 18th century The highlands of the shire afforded retreat to the persecuted Covenanters who at Sanquhar published in 1680 their declaration against the king anticipating the principles of the glorious Revolution by several years Prince Charles Edward s ambition left the shire comparatively untouched for the Jacobite sentiment made little appeal to the people 1 nbsp Craigenputtock House 1829Dumfriesshire is inseparably connected with the name of Robert Burns who farmed at Ellisland Farm on the Nith for three years and spent the last five years of his life in Dumfries Thomas Carlyle was born at Ecclefechan in a house still standing and was buried beside his parents in the kirkyard of the old Secession church now the United Free His farm of Craigenputtock was left to Edinburgh University in order to found the John Welsh bursaries in classics and mathematics 1 Folk history suggests that at Holywood near Dumfries there stand the relic of the grove of sacred oaks from which the place derived its name and a stone circle known locally as the Twelve Apostles 1 In 1988 Dumfriesshire was the site of the Lockerbie bombing in which a bomb exploded on an aircraft flying over the town of Lockerbie killing a total of 270 people It remains the worst single terrorist attack in British history 5 Administrative history edit The origins of Dumfriesshire as a county or shire are obscure There was certainly a shire of Dumfries by 1305 with some suggestion that it had existed from the twelfth century Annandale and Eskdale retained a degree of independence from the sheriff of Dumfries leaving the sheriff s practical control focussed on the Nithsdale area until 1747 when the separate jurisdictions of Annandale and Eskdale were ended under the Heritable Jurisdictions Scotland Act 1746 6 Commissioners of Supply were created in 1667 for each shire and formed the main administrative body for the area until county councils were created in 1890 under the Local Government Scotland Act 1889 The 1889 act also led to a review of boundaries of many of Scotland s counties in the case of Dumfriesshire the two parishes of Moffat and Kirkpatrick Juxta which had previously both straddled Dumfriesshire and Lanarkshire were brought entirely within Dumfriesshire 7 Dumfriesshire County Council was based at County Buildings in English Street 8 In May 1975 the county council was abolished and its functions were transferred to Dumfries and Galloway Regional Council under the Local Government Scotland Act 1973 Two lower tier district councils were created from parts of Dumfriesshire being Annandale and Eskdale covering the east of the county and Nithsdale covering the west of the county and a small part of neighbouring Kirkcudbrightshire 9 For lieutenancy purposes the last lord lieutenant of the county of Dumfriesshire was made lord lieutenant for the combined area of the Nithsdale and Annandale and Eskdale districts when the reforms came into effect in 1975 10 The districts were abolished in 1996 with their functions passing to Dumfries and Galloway Council The Dumfries lieutenancy area continues to cover the combined area of the pre 1996 Nithsdale and Annandale and Eskdale districts 11 Historical population figures edit nbsp Dumfriesshire Civil Parish map Published 1854 https archive org stream imperialgazettee01wils page n542 mode 1up Boundaries outlined in redThe population in 1891 was 74 245 and in 1901 72 371 when there were 176 persons who spoke Gaelic and English 1 Of the chief towns Annan pop in 1901 4 309 pop in 1951 4 631 in 2001 8 389 Dumfries pop in 1901 14 440 pop in 1951 26 322 in 2001 37 846 Langholm pop in 1901 3 142 pop in 1951 2 404 in 2001 2 311 Lockerbie pop in 1901 2 358 pop in 1951 2 621 in 2001 4 009 Moffat pop in 1901 2 530 pop in 1951 2 114 Places of interest editCaerlaverock Castle Dumfries Museum Sweetheart AbbeyOutdoor activities editThere are three of the world class 7Stanes 12 mountain biking centres in Dumfriesshire at Dalbeattie Mabie and Ae The Sustrans Route 7 13 long distance cycle route also runs through the Dumfriesshire There is excellent hill walking in the Moffat Hills 14 The Southern Upland Way 15 coast to coast walk passes through Dumfriesshire and the 53 mile long Annandale Way 16 travels from the Solway Firth into the Moffat hills near the Devil s Beef Tub There is also sailing on Castle Loch at Lochmaben 17 People editNotable people from Dumfriesshire include James Burnie Beck US Representative and US Senator from Kentucky John Graham botanist de es Thomas Carlyle essayist Henry Duncan clergyman Andy Goldsworthy sculptor Sir Andrew Halliday physician reformer writer and civil servant William Jardine Jardine Matheson founder Kirkpatrick Macmillan inventor of the bicycle James MacMurdo first British political agent to Cutch State in India Patrick Miller of Dalswinton engineer and inventor William Paterson banker Thomas Telford engineer Joseph Thomson geologist and explorer John Laurie Actor portrayed among many other roles Private Frazer in the BBC sitcom Dad s Army References editPrimary sources edit a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z nbsp One or more of the preceding sentences incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain Chisholm Hugh ed 1911 Dumfriesshire Encyclopaedia Britannica Vol 8 11th ed Cambridge University Press p 663 Wickham Jones C R 2009 The Landscape of Scotland Stroud The History Press ISBN 978 0 7524 1484 3 pp 157 158 National Museum of Scotland Wegner 2006 pp 59 80 Clipper Maid of the Seas Remembering those on flight 103 panamair org 2007 Archived from the original on 26 March 2008 Retrieved 8 June 2008 Chalmers George 1824 Of its establishment as a Shire Caledonia London pp 68 70 Retrieved 6 December 2022 Shennan Hay 1892 Boundaries of counties and parishes in Scotland as settled by the Boundary Commissioners under the Local Government Scotland Act 1889 Edinburgh W Green p 337 Retrieved 6 December 2022 Historic Environment Scotland English Street County Buildings LB26174 Retrieved 18 July 2021 Local Government Scotland Act 1973 legislation gov uk The National Archives 1973 c 65 retrieved 22 November 2022 The Lord Lieutenants Order 1975 legislation gov uk The National Archives SI 1975 428 retrieved 27 November 2022 The Lord Lieutenants Scotland Order 1996 legislation gov uk The National Archives SI 1996 731 retrieved 25 November 2022 Website for the 7Stanes Mountain Bike Trails Route 7 on Sustrans website Archived 10 March 2013 at the Wayback Machine Website with walking routes in the Moffat hills Website for the Southern Upland Way Archived from the original on 29 April 2012 Retrieved 23 February 2012 Annandale Way website Annandale Sailing Club s website Secondary sources edit National Museum of Scotland Fragments of gilt bronze mounts From Dumfriesshire National Museum Scotland Wegner Timo 2006 James Williams R McEwen eds The Dumfriesshire Mounts reconsidered PDF Vol Transactions of the Dumfriesshire and Galloway Natural History and Antiquarian Society Third series volume LXXX ed Council of the Society pp 59 80 Archived from the original PDF on 4 March 2016 Retrieved 5 January 2017 Further reading edit W M Dowall History of the Burgh of Dumfries Edinburgh 1887 Sir Herbert Maxwell Dumfries and Galloway Edinburgh and London 1897 J Macdonald and J Barbour Birrens and its Antiquities Dumfries 1897 Sir William Fraser The Book of Carlaverock Edinburgh 1873 The Douglas Book Edinburgh 1885 The Annandale Book Edinburgh 1894 G Neilson Annandale under the Bruces Annan 1887 C T Ramage Drumlanrig Castle and the Douglases Dumfries 1876 External links edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Dumfriesshire Dalveen Pass Archived 11 May 2006 at the Wayback Machine 55 10 N 3 30 W 55 167 N 3 500 W 55 167 3 500 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