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Tweed

Tweed is a rough, woollen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is usually woven with a plain weave, twill or herringbone structure. Colour effects in the yarn may be obtained by mixing dyed wool before it is spun.[1]

Harris Tweed woven in a herringbone twill pattern, mid-20th century

Tweeds are an icon of traditional Scottish, Irish, Welsh and English clothing, being desirable for informal outerwear,[2] due to the material being moisture-resistant and durable. Tweeds are made to withstand harsh climates[3] and are commonly worn for outdoor activities such as shooting and hunting, in England, Wales, Ireland and Scotland. In Ireland, tweed manufacturing is now most associated with County Donegal but originally covered the whole country.[4] In Scotland, tweed manufacturing is most associated with the Isle of Harris in the Hebrides.

Etymology

 
Tweed making at the Leach family woollen mill at Mochdre, Powys, Wales, 1940

The original name of the cloth was tweel, Scots for twill, the material being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance. Around 1831, a London merchant, James Locke, received a letter from a Hawick firm, Wm. Watson & Sons, Dangerfield Mills about some "tweels". The merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be a trade-name taken from the River Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. The goods were subsequently advertised as Tweed and the name has remained since.[5]

Traditions and culture

 
Bike in Tweed, Stockholm 2013

Traditionally used for upper-class country clothing such as shooting jackets, tweed became popular among the Edwardian middle classes who associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the elite.[6] Due to their durability tweed Norfolk jackets and plus-fours were a popular choice[7] for hunters, cyclists, golfers and early motorists, hence Kenneth Grahame's depiction of Mr. Toad in a Harris Tweed suit.[8] Popular patterns include houndstooth,[9] associated with 1960s fashion, windowpane, gamekeeper's tweed worn by academics, Glen plaid check, originally commissioned by Edward VII, and herringbone.[10]

During the 2000s and 2010s, members of long-established British and American land-owning families started to wear high-quality heirloom tweed inherited from their grandparents, some of which pre-dated the Second World War.[11][12]

In modern times, cyclists may wear tweed when they ride vintage bicycles on a Tweed Run. This practice has its roots in the British young fogey and hipster subcultures of the late 2000s and early 2010s, whose adherents appreciate both vintage tweed, and bicycles.[13]

Musical instruments

Some vintage Danemann upright pianos have a tweed cloth backing to protect the internal mechanism. Occasionally, Scottish bagpipes were covered in tweed as an alternative to tartan wool.[14]

The term "tweed" is used to describe coverings on instrument cables and vintage or retro guitar amplifiers, such as the Fender tweed and Fender Tweed Deluxe.[15] Despite the common terminology, these coverings were cotton twill, and not actually tweed.

Types of tweed

  • Harris Tweed: A handwoven tweed, defined in the Harris Tweed Act 1993 as cloth that is "Handwoven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the Outer Hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides".[16]
  • Donegal tweed: A handwoven tweed which has been manufactured for several centuries in County Donegal, Ireland, using wool from locally-bred sheep and dye from indigenous plants such as blackberries, gorse (whins), and moss.
  • Silk tweed: A fabric made of raw silk with flecks of colour typical of woollen tweed.
  • Saxony tweed: Originated in Saxony, Germany. It is a fabric made from the wool of merino sheep. It is very smooth and soft.

Gallery

See also

Notes

  1. ^ . The Harris Tweed Authority. Archived from the original on 15 August 2015. Retrieved 1 August 2015.
  2. ^ Fashion Institute of Technology (2006). . The Museum at FIT. Archived from the original on 2 June 2007. Retrieved 24 November 2008.
  3. ^ "Tweed Jackets | A Closely Woven Thing". Cad & the Dandy. 20 November 2015. Retrieved 19 March 2019.
  4. ^ Corrigan, Vawn (2020). Irish Tweed: History, Tradition, Fashion. O'Brien Press. ISBN 9781788492010.
  5. ^ Kirkpatrick, Betty (2015). Treacle, Toast and Tweed ... English Word Origins for Language Lovers. Crombie Jardine Publishing Ltd. ISBN 978-1326384067.
  6. ^ Edward Minister and Son (August 1872). "The Norfolk Jacket". Gazette of Fashion, and Cutting-room Companion. Simpkin, Marshall & Co. 27 (316): 31.
  7. ^ Dutton, Edward (22 August 2014). . A Suit That Fits. Archived from the original on 28 March 2019. Retrieved 26 January 2016.
  8. ^ loopy_lucy14 (31 October 1997). "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride (1996)". IMDb. Retrieved 27 July 2011.
  9. ^ Dunbar, John Telfer (1984). The Costume of Scotland. London: Batsford. ISBN 0-7134-2534-2.
  10. ^ . Ralph Lauren. Archived from the original on 19 September 2008. Retrieved 24 November 2008.
  11. ^ "Nigel Cabourn DB Tweed Jacket - Rare Classic Quality?". Grey Fox. 5 September 2012. Retrieved 17 October 2013.
  12. ^ Bath, Richard (25 July 2009). "Richard Bath: In defence of tweed". The Scotsman. JPIMedia Ltd. Retrieved 17 October 2013.
  13. ^ . The Chap Magazine. 11 September 2012. Archived from the original on 25 October 2013. Retrieved 8 August 2013.
  14. ^ Price, Richard (16 March 2013). "Harris Tweed Bagpipe Covers". The Big Cloth and Me. Retrieved 8 August 2013.
  15. ^ Hunter, Dave (July 2012). "The Fender 5F4 Super Amp". Vintage Guitar. pp. 50–52.
  16. ^ . The Harris Tweed Authority. Archived from the original on 8 March 2013. Retrieved 1 August 2015.

References

  • Corrigan, Vawn (2020). Irish Tweed: History, Tradition, Fashion. O'Brien Press. ISBN 9781788492010.
  • "What is Tweed?". A Hume.
  • Reynolds, Francis J., ed. (1921). "Tweed (cloth)" . Collier's New Encyclopedia. New York: P. F. Collier & Son Company.
  • National Library of Scotland: SCOTTISH SCREEN ARCHIVE (archive films relating to tweed manufacture in Scotland)
  • Anderson, Fiona (2016). Tweed. London: Bloomsbury Academic Press. ISBN 978-1-84520-697-0.

External links

  •   Media related to Tweed at Wikimedia Commons

tweed, this, article, about, cloth, river, scotland, england, river, other, uses, disambiguation, rough, woollen, fabric, soft, open, flexible, texture, resembling, cheviot, homespun, more, closely, woven, usually, woven, with, plain, weave, twill, herringbone. This article is about the cloth For the river in Scotland and England see River Tweed For other uses see Tweed disambiguation Tweed is a rough woollen fabric of a soft open flexible texture resembling cheviot or homespun but more closely woven It is usually woven with a plain weave twill or herringbone structure Colour effects in the yarn may be obtained by mixing dyed wool before it is spun 1 Harris Tweed woven in a herringbone twill pattern mid 20th century Tweeds are an icon of traditional Scottish Irish Welsh and English clothing being desirable for informal outerwear 2 due to the material being moisture resistant and durable Tweeds are made to withstand harsh climates 3 and are commonly worn for outdoor activities such as shooting and hunting in England Wales Ireland and Scotland In Ireland tweed manufacturing is now most associated with County Donegal but originally covered the whole country 4 In Scotland tweed manufacturing is most associated with the Isle of Harris in the Hebrides Contents 1 Etymology 2 Traditions and culture 2 1 Musical instruments 3 Types of tweed 4 Gallery 5 See also 6 Notes 7 References 8 External linksEtymology Edit Tweed making at the Leach family woollen mill at Mochdre Powys Wales 1940 The original name of the cloth was tweel Scots for twill the material being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance Around 1831 a London merchant James Locke received a letter from a Hawick firm Wm Watson amp Sons Dangerfield Mills about some tweels The merchant misinterpreted the handwriting understanding it to be a trade name taken from the River Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area The goods were subsequently advertised as Tweed and the name has remained since 5 Traditions and culture Edit Bike in Tweed Stockholm 2013 Traditionally used for upper class country clothing such as shooting jackets tweed became popular among the Edwardian middle classes who associated it with the leisurely pursuits of the elite 6 Due to their durability tweed Norfolk jackets and plus fours were a popular choice 7 for hunters cyclists golfers and early motorists hence Kenneth Grahame s depiction of Mr Toad in a Harris Tweed suit 8 Popular patterns include houndstooth 9 associated with 1960s fashion windowpane gamekeeper s tweed worn by academics Glen plaid check originally commissioned by Edward VII and herringbone 10 During the 2000s and 2010s members of long established British and American land owning families started to wear high quality heirloom tweed inherited from their grandparents some of which pre dated the Second World War 11 12 In modern times cyclists may wear tweed when they ride vintage bicycles on a Tweed Run This practice has its roots in the British young fogey and hipster subcultures of the late 2000s and early 2010s whose adherents appreciate both vintage tweed and bicycles 13 Musical instruments Edit Some vintage Danemann upright pianos have a tweed cloth backing to protect the internal mechanism Occasionally Scottish bagpipes were covered in tweed as an alternative to tartan wool 14 The term tweed is used to describe coverings on instrument cables and vintage or retro guitar amplifiers such as the Fender tweed and Fender Tweed Deluxe 15 Despite the common terminology these coverings were cotton twill and not actually tweed Types of tweed EditThis section needs additional citations for verification Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources Unsourced material may be challenged and removed October 2021 Learn how and when to remove this template message Harris Tweed A handwoven tweed defined in the Harris Tweed Act 1993 as cloth that is Handwoven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides finished in the Outer Hebrides and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides 16 Donegal tweed A handwoven tweed which has been manufactured for several centuries in County Donegal Ireland using wool from locally bred sheep and dye from indigenous plants such as blackberries gorse whins and moss Silk tweed A fabric made of raw silk with flecks of colour typical of woollen tweed Saxony tweed Originated in Saxony Germany It is a fabric made from the wool of merino sheep It is very smooth and soft Gallery Edit Logo of the Harris Tweed authority Glen plaid Glenurquhart or Prince of Wales check frequently used to make overcoats and sportcoats in the 1950s Example of the herringbone pattern a popular choice for suits and outerwear Houndstooth the basis of the keeper s tweed popular among the upper classes from the 1860s until the 1930s Grey Donegal tweed sportcoat A deerstalker hat made of district or gamekeeper s tweed contrasting mustard green and brown checks Windowpane tweed popular in the late 19th century and again in the 1970s Frederick III with his young son Wilhelm wearing highland dress including tweed kilt jacket Hunting apparel belonging to Gustaf V of Sweden 1930s Harris Tweed Nike Charlie Hunter left watches as Old Tom Morris plays a shot in 1863 at Prestwick Both of the players are wearing the traditional tweeds See also Edit1920s in fashion 1950s fashion 1960s fashion 1970s fashion 2000s in fashion 2010s in fashion British Country Clothing Norfolk jacket Sports Jacket Woollen industry in WalesNotes Edit Harris Tweed The Cloth The Harris Tweed Authority Archived from the original on 15 August 2015 Retrieved 1 August 2015 Fashion Institute of Technology 2006 The Tailor s Art Menswear Fabrics A Glossary The Museum at FIT Archived from the original on 2 June 2007 Retrieved 24 November 2008 Tweed Jackets A Closely Woven Thing Cad amp the Dandy 20 November 2015 Retrieved 19 March 2019 Corrigan Vawn 2020 Irish Tweed History Tradition Fashion O Brien Press ISBN 9781788492010 Kirkpatrick Betty 2015 Treacle Toast and Tweed English Word Origins for Language Lovers Crombie Jardine Publishing Ltd ISBN 978 1326384067 Edward Minister and Son August 1872 The Norfolk Jacket Gazette of Fashion and Cutting room Companion Simpkin Marshall amp Co 27 316 31 Dutton Edward 22 August 2014 How to wear a tweed suit in the 21st century A Suit That Fits Archived from the original on 28 March 2019 Retrieved 26 January 2016 loopy lucy14 31 October 1997 Mr Toad s Wild Ride 1996 IMDb Retrieved 27 July 2011 Dunbar John Telfer 1984 The Costume of Scotland London Batsford ISBN 0 7134 2534 2 The RL Style Guide Glossary Herringbone Ralph Lauren Archived from the original on 19 September 2008 Retrieved 24 November 2008 Nigel Cabourn DB Tweed Jacket Rare Classic Quality Grey Fox 5 September 2012 Retrieved 17 October 2013 Bath Richard 25 July 2009 Richard Bath In defence of tweed The Scotsman JPIMedia Ltd Retrieved 17 October 2013 TheChapMag Vintage Garments The Chap Magazine 11 September 2012 Archived from the original on 25 October 2013 Retrieved 8 August 2013 Price Richard 16 March 2013 Harris Tweed Bagpipe Covers The Big Cloth and Me Retrieved 8 August 2013 Hunter Dave July 2012 The Fender 5F4 Super Amp Vintage Guitar pp 50 52 About Us Guardians of the Orb The Harris Tweed Authority Archived from the original on 8 March 2013 Retrieved 1 August 2015 References EditCorrigan Vawn 2020 Irish Tweed History Tradition Fashion O Brien Press ISBN 9781788492010 What is Tweed A Hume Reynolds Francis J ed 1921 Tweed cloth Collier s New Encyclopedia New York P F Collier amp Son Company National Library of Scotland SCOTTISH SCREEN ARCHIVE archive films relating to tweed manufacture in Scotland Anderson Fiona 2016 Tweed London Bloomsbury Academic Press ISBN 978 1 84520 697 0 External links Edit Media related to Tweed at Wikimedia Commons Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Tweed amp oldid 1132737568, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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