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Straw hat

A straw hat is a wide-brimmed hat woven out of straw or straw-like synthetic materials.[1] Straw hats are a type of sun hat designed to shade the head and face from direct sunlight, but are also used in fashion as a decorative element or a uniform.

A traditional Ukrainian straw hat.
An ad for various styles of straw hats
A straw cone hat worn by a Japanese buddhist monk

Materials edit

Commonly used fibers are:[2]

Manufacture edit

There are several styles of straw hats, but all of them are woven using some form of plant fibre.[15][16] Many of these hats are formed in a similar way to felt hats; they are softened by steam or by submersion in hot water, and then formed by hand or over a hat block. Finer and more expensive straw hats have a tighter and more consistent weave. Since it takes much more time to weave a larger hat than a smaller one, larger hats are more expensive.[citation needed]

History edit

Straw hats have been worn in Africa and Asia since after the Middle Ages during the summer months, and have changed little between the medieval times and today. They are worn, mostly by men, by all classes. Many can be seen in the calendar miniatures of the Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry.

 
Lesotho license plate, featuring a mokorotlo

The mokorotlo, a local design of a straw hat, is the national symbol of the Basotho and Lesotho peoples, and of the nation of Lesotho. It is displayed on Lesotho license plates.

Betsey Metcalf Baker (née Betsey Metcalf; 1786–1867)[17] was a manufacturer of straw bonnets, entrepreneur, and social activist based in Providence, Rhode Island and Westwood, Massachusetts. At age twelve, she developed a technique for braiding straw, allowing her to emulate the styles of expensive straw bonnets and make them accessible to working-class women. Rather than patent her technique, Baker taught the women in her community how to make straw bonnets, enabling the development of a cottage industry in New England.[18]

Because of the Napoleonic Wars, the United States embargoed all trade with France and Great Britain for a time, creating a need for American-made hats to replace European millinery. The straw-weaving industry filled the gap, with over $500,000 ($9 million in today's money) worth of straw bonnets produced in Massachusetts alone in 1810.[19]

On May 5, 1809, Mary Dixon Kies received a patent for a new technique of weaving straw with silk and thread to make hats.[20][21] Some sources say she was the first woman to receive a US Patent,[22][23] however other sources cite Hannah Slater in 1793,[24][25][26] or Hazel Irwin, who received a patent for a cheese press in 1808,[27][24] as the first.

President Theodore Roosevelt posed for a series of photos at the Panama Canal construction site in 1906. He was portrayed as a strong, rugged leader dressed crisply in light-colored suits and stylish straw fedoras. This helped popularize the straw "Panama hat".[28]

Types of straw hats edit

  • Boater hat – a formal straw hat with a flat top and brim.
  • Buntal hat – a semi-formal or informal traditional straw hat from the Philippines made from buntal fiber
  • Conical hat – the distinctive hat worn primarily by farmers in Southeast Asia
  • Panama hat – a fine and expensive hat made in Ecuador.
  • Sombrero Vueltiao - A straw hat with intricate patterns made from caña flecha by the Zenú people of Colombia.
  • Salakot – a traditional conical or pointed rounded hat made usually made from rattan from the Philippines. It can also be made from gourds, tortoiseshell, or other fibers and weaving materials.
  • Straw bonnet - Bonnet has been used as the name for a wide variety of headgear for both sexes—more often female—from the Middle Ages to the present. Some are made of straw.

Gallery edit

Arts edit

Artwork produced during the Middle Ages shows, among the more fashionably dressed, possibly the most spectacular straw hats ever seen on men in the West, notably those worn in the Arnolfini Portrait of 1434 by Jan van Eyck (tall, stained black) and by Saint George in a painting by Pisanello of around the same date (left). In the middle of the 18th century, it was fashionable for rich ladies to dress as country girls with a low crowned and wide brimmed straw hat to complete the look.[29]

See also edit

References edit

  1. ^ Hatatorium: An Essential Guide for Hat Collectors ISBN 978-0-984-78590-2 p. 18
  2. ^ a b A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion:, Mary Brooks Picken, Courier Corporation, 24.07.2013
  3. ^ The Fairchild Encyclopedia of Menswear, Mary Lisa Gavenas, Fairchild Books, 2008, P. 327
  4. ^ Paglinastroh Retrieved 03.14.2016
  5. ^ Rush straw Retrieved 03-18-2016
  6. ^ Bulrush hat Retrieved 03-18-2016
  7. ^ Typha hat Retrieved 03-19-2016
  8. ^ Reed hat Retrieved 03-18-2016
  9. ^ Historical Common Names of Great Plains Plants Volume I: Historical Names , Elaine Nowick, Lulu.com, 01.10.2014, P. 355[self-published source]
  10. ^ Information for use in determining whether to continue designation of certain headwear of straw as articles eligible for duty-free treatment under the generalized system of preferences:, Jackie Worrell, United States International Trade Commission, 1982, P. 5
  11. ^ PP Straw Retrieved 03-16-2016
  12. ^ Hats and Headwear around the World: A Cultural Encyclopedia:, Beverly Chico, ABC-CLIO, 03.10.2013, P. 115, 259
  13. ^ Hatatorium: An Essential Guide for Hat Collectors, Brenda Grantland, P. 56
  14. ^ Chip straw Retrieved 03-16-2016
  15. ^ Our Economic World: A Study of the World's Natural Resources and Industries. p. 302. ISBN 978-0-412-57640-9.
  16. ^ . woodsofshropshire.co.uk. Archived from the original on 3 June 2020.
  17. ^ "Betsey Metcalf". Kouroo Contexture. 13 January 2014. Retrieved 14 November 2021.
  18. ^ "Betsey Baker, straw hat maker". Hometown Weekly Newspapers. 8 August 2019. Retrieved 4 October 2021.
  19. ^ "May 5, 1809: Hats Off to First U.S. Woman Patent-Holder". Retrieved 7 September 2015.
  20. ^ "Mary Kies Became the First Woman to Receive a U.S. Patent". America's Story from America's Library. Library of Congress. Retrieved 3 May 2018.
  21. ^ "HER INVENTIVE GENIUS; How Lovely Woman Is on Record in the Patent Office. MRS. MARY KIES HEADS THE LIST IN 1809 A Colored Woman's Patent – A See-Saw Washing Machine – Inventions Useful and Amusing". The New York Times. 9 June 1895. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 15 March 2022.
  22. ^ Blakemore, Erin. "Meet Mary Kies, America's First Woman to Become a Patent Holder". Retrieved 11 August 2016.
  23. ^ "First Women Inventors | History of American Women". www.womenhistoryblog.com. 3 January 2016. Retrieved 10 August 2016.
  24. ^ a b Progress and Potential: A profile of women inventors on U.S. patents United States Patent and Trademark Office.
  25. ^ "Women Inventors | History Detectives | PBS". www.pbs.org. Retrieved 10 August 2016.
  26. ^ "10 Key Dates in Women's History: The Early Modern Period". Britannica Blog. Encyclopædia Britannica. 10 March 2011. Retrieved 10 August 2016.
  27. ^
  28. ^ "President Theodore Roosevelt's Legendary Panama Canal Fashion | Ultrafino". Ultrafino. 29 September 2017. Retrieved 7 December 2017.
  29. ^ . British Hat Guild. 2003. Archived from the original on 10 May 2012. Retrieved 14 March 2016.

External links edit

  • Harry Inwards (1922). Straw Hats: Their History and Manufacture at Project Gutenberg

straw, other, uses, disambiguation, straw, wide, brimmed, woven, straw, straw, like, synthetic, materials, type, designed, shade, head, face, from, direct, sunlight, also, used, fashion, decorative, element, uniform, traditional, ukrainian, straw, various, sty. For other uses see Straw hat disambiguation A straw hat is a wide brimmed hat woven out of straw or straw like synthetic materials 1 Straw hats are a type of sun hat designed to shade the head and face from direct sunlight but are also used in fashion as a decorative element or a uniform A traditional Ukrainian straw hat An ad for various styles of straw hatsA straw cone hat worn by a Japanese buddhist monk Contents 1 Materials 2 Manufacture 3 History 4 Types of straw hats 5 Gallery 6 Arts 7 See also 8 References 9 External linksMaterials editCommonly used fibers are 2 Wheat straw Milan straw Tuscan Livorno Rye straw used for the traditional bryl straw hats popular among the peasants of Belarus southwestern Russia and Ukraine Toquilla straw flexible and durable fiber which is often made into hats known as Panama hats in Ecuador citation needed Buntal Parabuntal straw from unopened Palm leaves or stems of the Buri Palm Baku straw 1x1 woven made from the young stalks of the Talipot palm from Malabar and Ceylon Braided hemp Raffia Shantung straw made from high performance paper which is rolled into a yarn to imitate straw 3 historically it was made of buntal 2 Toyo straw cellophane coated Washi Bangora straw made from a lower grade of Washi Paperbraids made from different paper strands from viscose from different Plants Swiss Paglinastraw 4 Silkpaper Rice paper Sisal Parasisal 2x2 woven sisal Seagrass Xian Visca straw an artificial straw made by spinning viscose in a flat filament capable of being braided woven or knitted and used especially for women s hats Rush straw a thick stiff straw used to manufacture inexpensive casual sun hats made from rush grass Juncus effesus Juncus polycephalus from the bulrushtypes sedge grass Schoenoplectus lacustris Cyperus papyrus 5 6 Typha Typha domingensis syn Thypha angustata bulrush or cattail 7 and other types seashore rushgrass Sporobolus virginicus or reed 8 9 self published source self published source Jute Abaca for Sinamay hats Ramie Artificial synthetic straw PP straw made from Polypropylene Polyethylene 10 or from different blends from Acrylic PP PE Polyester Ramie and Paper 11 other straw fibers that are mostly used in Asian conical hats are made from different palms Corypha Rattan Trachycarpus Phoenix grasses Cane Bamboo 12 and rice straw Kasa hat Chip straw 13 from White pine Lombardy poplar or English willow has historically been used 14 but has become less common Manufacture editThere are several styles of straw hats but all of them are woven using some form of plant fibre 15 16 Many of these hats are formed in a similar way to felt hats they are softened by steam or by submersion in hot water and then formed by hand or over a hat block Finer and more expensive straw hats have a tighter and more consistent weave Since it takes much more time to weave a larger hat than a smaller one larger hats are more expensive citation needed History editStraw hats have been worn in Africa and Asia since after the Middle Ages during the summer months and have changed little between the medieval times and today They are worn mostly by men by all classes Many can be seen in the calendar miniatures of the Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry nbsp Lesotho license plate featuring a mokorotloThe mokorotlo a local design of a straw hat is the national symbol of the Basotho and Lesotho peoples and of the nation of Lesotho It is displayed on Lesotho license plates Betsey Metcalf Baker nee Betsey Metcalf 1786 1867 17 was a manufacturer of straw bonnets entrepreneur and social activist based in Providence Rhode Island and Westwood Massachusetts At age twelve she developed a technique for braiding straw allowing her to emulate the styles of expensive straw bonnets and make them accessible to working class women Rather than patent her technique Baker taught the women in her community how to make straw bonnets enabling the development of a cottage industry in New England 18 Because of the Napoleonic Wars the United States embargoed all trade with France and Great Britain for a time creating a need for American made hats to replace European millinery The straw weaving industry filled the gap with over 500 000 9 million in today s money worth of straw bonnets produced in Massachusetts alone in 1810 19 On May 5 1809 Mary Dixon Kies received a patent for a new technique of weaving straw with silk and thread to make hats 20 21 Some sources say she was the first woman to receive a US Patent 22 23 however other sources cite Hannah Slater in 1793 24 25 26 or Hazel Irwin who received a patent for a cheese press in 1808 27 24 as the first President Theodore Roosevelt posed for a series of photos at the Panama Canal construction site in 1906 He was portrayed as a strong rugged leader dressed crisply in light colored suits and stylish straw fedoras This helped popularize the straw Panama hat 28 Types of straw hats editBoater hat a formal straw hat with a flat top and brim Buntal hat a semi formal or informal traditional straw hat from the Philippines made from buntal fiber Conical hat the distinctive hat worn primarily by farmers in Southeast Asia Panama hat a fine and expensive hat made in Ecuador Sombrero Vueltiao A straw hat with intricate patterns made from cana flecha by the Zenu people of Colombia Salakot a traditional conical or pointed rounded hat made usually made from rattan from the Philippines It can also be made from gourds tortoiseshell or other fibers and weaving materials Straw bonnet Bonnet has been used as the name for a wide variety of headgear for both sexes more often female from the Middle Ages to the present Some are made of straw Gallery edit nbsp Boater hat nbsp Buntal hat from the Philippines nbsp Panama hats from Cuenca Ecuador nbsp An image taken in 1912 depicting a man and woman wearing straw hats nbsp Conical Asian hat in Myanmar nbsp Young Woman wearing contemporary Western style Sun HatArts editArtwork produced during the Middle Ages shows among the more fashionably dressed possibly the most spectacular straw hats ever seen on men in the West notably those worn in the Arnolfini Portrait of 1434 by Jan van Eyck tall stained black and by Saint George in a painting by Pisanello of around the same date left In the middle of the 18th century it was fashionable for rich ladies to dress as country girls with a low crowned and wide brimmed straw hat to complete the look 29 nbsp Arnolfini Portrait detail by Jan van Eyck nbsp Virgin and Child with Saints George and Anthony by Pisanello nbsp Madchen mit Strohhut by Friedrich von Amerling nbsp Walk on the Beach by Joaquin Sorolla nbsp Fillette au chapeau de paille by Berthe Morisot 1892 See also editStraw Hat RiotReferences edit Hatatorium An Essential Guide for Hat Collectors ISBN 978 0 984 78590 2 p 18 a b A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion Mary Brooks Picken Courier Corporation 24 07 2013 The Fairchild Encyclopedia of Menswear Mary Lisa Gavenas Fairchild Books 2008 P 327 Paglinastroh Retrieved 03 14 2016 Rush straw Retrieved 03 18 2016 Bulrush hat Retrieved 03 18 2016 Typha hat Retrieved 03 19 2016 Reed hat Retrieved 03 18 2016 Historical Common Names of Great Plains Plants Volume I Historical Names Elaine Nowick Lulu com 01 10 2014 P 355 self published source Information for use in determining whether to continue designation of certain headwear of straw as articles eligible for duty free treatment under the generalized system of preferences Jackie Worrell United States International Trade Commission 1982 P 5 PP Straw Retrieved 03 16 2016 Hats and Headwear around the World A Cultural Encyclopedia Beverly Chico ABC CLIO 03 10 2013 P 115 259 Hatatorium An Essential Guide for Hat Collectors Brenda Grantland P 56 Chip straw Retrieved 03 16 2016 Our Economic World A Study of the World s Natural Resources and Industries p 302 ISBN 978 0 412 57640 9 NATURAL PALM FIBRE HAT FROM FAILSWORTH HATS woodsofshropshire co uk Archived from the original on 3 June 2020 Betsey Metcalf Kouroo Contexture 13 January 2014 Retrieved 14 November 2021 Betsey Baker straw hat maker Hometown Weekly Newspapers 8 August 2019 Retrieved 4 October 2021 May 5 1809 Hats Off to First U S Woman Patent Holder Retrieved 7 September 2015 Mary Kies Became the First Woman to Receive a U S Patent America s Story from America s Library Library of Congress Retrieved 3 May 2018 HER INVENTIVE GENIUS How Lovely Woman Is on Record in the Patent Office MRS MARY KIES HEADS THE LIST IN 1809 A Colored Woman s Patent A See Saw Washing Machine Inventions Useful and Amusing The New York Times 9 June 1895 ISSN 0362 4331 Retrieved 15 March 2022 Blakemore Erin Meet Mary Kies America s First Woman to Become a Patent Holder Retrieved 11 August 2016 First Women Inventors History of American Women www womenhistoryblog com 3 January 2016 Retrieved 10 August 2016 a b Progress and Potential A profile of women inventors on U S patents United States Patent and Trademark Office Women Inventors History Detectives PBS www pbs org Retrieved 10 August 2016 10 Key Dates in Women s History The Early Modern Period Britannica Blog Encyclopaedia Britannica 10 March 2011 Retrieved 10 August 2016 Not for Ornament Patenting Activity by Nineteenth Century Women Inventors by B Zorina Khan Journal of Interdisciplinary History xxxi 2 Autumn 2000 159 195 President Theodore Roosevelt s Legendary Panama Canal Fashion Ultrafino Ultrafino 29 September 2017 Retrieved 7 December 2017 The Hat Story British Hat Guild 2003 Archived from the original on 10 May 2012 Retrieved 14 March 2016 External links editHarry Inwards 1922 Straw Hats Their History and Manufacture at Project Gutenberg nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Straw hats Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Straw hat amp oldid 1207747273, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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