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List of hanfu

Hanfu are the historical clothing of the Han Chinese, here categorized by clothing style.

Informal wear edit

 
Two traditional forms of ruqun (襦裙), a type of Han Chinese clothing worn primarily by women. Cuffs and sleeves on the upper garment may be tighter or looser depending on style. A short skirt or weighted braid (with weight provided by a jade or gold pendant) is sometimes worn to improve aesthetics or comfort of the basic ruqun.

Types include tops and bottoms, long skirt, and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi).

Zhongyi (中衣), which is usually the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants, can be wear along in casual.

The typical set of informal wear consists of two or three layers. The first layer is mostly zhongyi (中衣). The next layer is the main layer which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front.

For footwear, white socks and black cloth shoes (with white soles) are the norm. But in the past, shoes may have a front face panel attached to the tip of the shoes.

List of Inner garments
Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Zhōngyī 中衣  
Bàofù 抱腹 Han[1]
Dùdōu 肚兜,

兜肚, or 兜兜

Qing  
Héhuān Jīn 合欢襟 Yuan dynasty[2]
Liǎngdāng 两当 It is an underwear which is made up of a square-shaped back and front panels.[1] A form of hufu. It was introduced in the Central Plains by the nomads of China.[2] Wei and Jin[1]
Mǒxiōng 抹胸 Song[1]
Xièyī 亵衣 Pre-Han[1]
Xīnyī 心衣 Han[1]
Zhǔyāo 主腰 Ming[1]
List of informal wear
Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Zhíjū 直裾 Straight lapelled, full body garment. Pre-Qin – Han      
     
Qūjū 曲裾 Diagonal body wrapped, full body garment. Pre-Qin – Han    
Kùzhě 裤褶 Clothing with trousers for riding or military style clothing.[3][4] A short coat with trousers. Pre-Qin - Ming.    
Páofú 袍服
Yèsāpáo 曳撒 or

一撒

A form of kuzhe.[3][4] Ming; Modern    
Zhì sūn fú or yisefu 质孙服 or 一色服 "robe of one colour" Introduced in Yuan; later became a uniform for the military officials Ming. Yuan – Ming
Rúqún 襦裙 "Jacket and skirt" An upper garment covered by a separate skirt.

A common clothing for women.

Pre-Qin – Ming; Modern    
     
Ǎoqún/

Shānqún

袄裙/

衫裙

A short coat with a long skirt underneath. A common clothing for women. Han – Ming; Modern  
     
   
Zhíduō 直裰 Straight robe. Similar to zhiju but with vents at sides and cuffed sleeves.

A common attire for men.[5][6]

Tang – Ming      
Modern  
Dàopáo 道袍 Taoist robe. Worn by Taoist priests and normal scholars. Song – Ming; Modern      
   
Shuǐtiányī 水田衣 Ming-Qing  
Bǎijiāyī 百家衣 Liu Song – Modern    

Semi-formal wear edit

Generally, this form of wear is suitable for meeting guests or going to meetings and other special cultural days. This form of dress is often worn by the nobility or the upper-class as they are often expensive pieces of clothing, usually made of silks and damasks. The coat sleeves are often deeper than the shenyi to create a more voluminous appearance.

A piece of ancient Chinese clothing can be "made semi-formal" by the addition of the following appropriate items:

  • Chang (裳): a pleated skirt
  • Bixi (蔽膝): a cloth attached from the waist, covering front of legs.
  • Zhaoshan (罩衫): long open fronted coat
List of semi-formal wear
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Banbi 半臂 A half-sleeved waistcoat. Tang – Ming        
Bijia 比甲 An open-sided vest. Ming  
Beizi

or

Pifeng

褙子or

披风

Large loose outer coat with loose and long sleeves Song – Ming      

Formal wear edit

In addition to informal and semi-formal wear, there is a form of dress that is worn only at confucian rituals, important sacrifices, religious activities or by special people who are entitled to wear them (such as officials and emperors).

The most formal dress civilians can wear is the xuanduan (sometimes called yuanduan 元端),[7][8] which consists of a black or dark blue top garment that runs to the knees with long sleeve (often with white piping), a bottom red chang, a red bixi (which can have a motif and/or be edged in black), an optional white belt with two white streamers hanging from the side or slightly to the front called peishou (佩綬), and a long black guan. Additionally, wearers may carry a long jade gui (圭) or wooden hu (笏) tablet (used when greeting royalty). This form of dress is mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies such as Ji Tian (祭天) and Ji Zu (祭祖), etc., but is also appropriate for state occasions. The xuanduan is basically a simplified version of full court dress of the officials and the nobility.

List of formal wear
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Xuanduan/

Yuanduan

玄端/

元端

Literally "dark solemn", a very formal dark robe.[7][9] Pre-Qin - Song  
Shenyi 深衣 A long full body garment. Song - Ming        
Yuanlingshan/

Panlingpao

圓領衫/盤領袍 Closed round-collared robe. Mostly used for official occasions. Sui – Ming        
Lanshan 襴衫 Closed round-collared robe with black edges. Mostly used for academical dress; worn by scholars and students (生員) taking the imperial examination. Tang – Ming        
Daxiushan 大袖衫 Large Sleeve Gown. Worn by royal women. Five dynasties – Tang        
Chang'ao 長襖 A long overcoat Ming  
Zaju chuishao fu or Guiyi 杂裾垂髾服 or 袿衣 A formal dress worn by Elite women. Cao Wei to Northern and Southern dynasties  

Court dress edit

 
Government officials in Changfu during the Wanli era, Ming dynasty

Court dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions. The practical use of court dress is now obsolete in the modern age since there is no reigning monarch in China anymore.

Those in academia or officialdom have distinctive gowns (known as changfu 常服 in court dress terms). This varies over the ages but they are typically round collared gowns closed at the front. The most distinct feature is the headgear which has 'wings' attached. Only those who passed the civil examinations are entitled to wear them, but a variation of it can be worn by ordinary scholars and laymen and even for a groom at a wedding (but with no hat).

Court dress of emperors edit

Court dress of Emperors
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Longpao (龙袍) Jifu 吉服 The dragon robe for special occasions. Shang – Ming      
Changfu 常服 The dragon robe for daily wear. Tang – Qing      
Mianfu 冕服 Attire worn by emperors and crown princes. Shang – Ming      
Tongtianguanfu 通天冠服 Tongtian, literally means "direct links with heaven".[10] Ceremonial dress. Shang – Ming  
Bianfu 弁服 Occasional court dress. Also worn by officials or the nobility. Shang – Ming  

Court dress of officials edit

Court dress of Officials: Guanfu (官服)
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Chaofu 朝服 A red ceremonial court dress of emperor, officials or nobility. Zhou – Ming      
Gongfu 公服 Formal court dress according to ranks.[11] Tang - Ming      
Changfu 常服 Everyday court dress. Song – Qing      
Bufu 补服 Changfu sewn with Mandarin square. Ming – Qing      
Zhongjingfu 忠静服 Retired official's bufu with same colour long cloth belt.[12] Ming      
Cifu 賜服 Ceremonial court dress of the highest rank officials. The right to wear such dress was bestowed by emperors as a special honour. Ming – Qing      
Mangfu 蟒服 Also known as the "four-clawed dragon" robe or "python robe". It is a type of Cifu. Ming-Qing    
Feiyufu 飞鱼服 Also known as "flying fish" robe. It is a type of Cifu. Ming  
Douniufu 斗牛服 Also known as "fighting bull" robe. It is a type of Cifu. Ming  

Court dress for women edit

Court dress of Woman
Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images
Huidi-yi 褘翟衣 Attire worn by empresses and crown princesses. Zhou – Ming      
Dashanxiapei 大衫霞帔 The large gown with the radiance hanging scarf. Ceremonial court dress of empresses and mìngfu. Song- Ming      
Changfu 常服 Everyday court dress of mìngfu. Ming    
Bufu 补服 Changfu sewn with Mandarin square. Ceremonial court dress of mìngfu. Ming      

Cloaks edit

Lower garments edit

Types of Women's skirts
Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Chang/ Shang A narrow, ankle-length skirt.[13] Shang - Zhou
Liuxianqun 留仙裙 "Fairy skirt".[14] Han
Jianqun or Jiansequn 间裙 or 间色裙 Stripped skirts.[15] It was a high waisted skirts which integrated both the techniques of the Han dynasty and foreign techniques from the Western Region.[16] In the Sixteen kingdoms, the skirt had panels of different colours; which could vary to: 6, 8, 12 regions.[16] From the Northern dynasty to the Tang dynasty, the skirt had denser multiple stripes.[16] In Tang, the stripped skirt was A-line.[17] Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties - Tang dynasty      
     
Bainiaoqun 百鸟裙 "Hundred bird-feather skirt".[18] A feather skirt worn by a princess in Mid-Tang; the skirt was made with the feathers from a hundred birds.[19] Tang
Shiliuqun 石榴裙 "Pomegranate skirt" A red skirt which was very popular.[19] Tang      
Yujinqun 郁金裙 "Turmeric skirt" A yellow skirt which was dyed with turmeric.[19] Tang
Liangpianqun 两片裙 An unpleated skirt which is composed of two pieces of fabric sewn to the same waistband. The middle part of the skirt overlap and are not sewn together.[20] Song
Baidiequn 百迭裙 A one-piece pleated skirt; the top is narrow and the bottom is wide.[20] Song
Sanjianqun 三裥裙 A skirt made of 4 skirts pieces sewn together.[20] Song
Zhejianqun 褶裥裙 "Folded skirt" Song  
Mamianqun 马面裙 "Horse-face skirt".[21] A skirt made of two-pieces of fabric sewn to the same waistband. The sides of the skirt has knife pleats whereas the back and front have flat panels.[22] Ming-Qing    
   
Baijianqun 百襇裙 "Hundred pleated skirt".[21] Qing
Yuehuaqun 月華裙 "Moonlight skirt".[21] Made of ten pieces of fabric which was then tucked in 10 pleats; each pleats had a different colour which was light. It was a popular skirt in the early Qing dynasty.[19] Qing    
Yulinqun 鱼鳞裙 Lit. "fish-scale" skirt. A skirt where pleats were joined with silk threads in order to makes creases which look like the scales of a fish.[19] The pleats were very tiny.[21] Qing  
"Rainbow skirt".[23] Qing  
Langanqun 襕干裙 "Chinese ink painting skirt". A skirt where scattered flowers pattern were printed.[19] Qing    
Fengweiqun 凤尾裙 Lit. "Phoenix-tail skirt". An underskirt which is decorated with long ribbons of different colours of silk, the ribbons were narrow. Different embroidery is found on in each ribbon strips. It was popular during the reign of Kangxi and Qianlong.[19] Qing
Baizhequn 百摺裙 An all-around small pleated skirt.[24] Qing - Republic

Religious clothing edit

Those in the religious orders wear a plain middle layer garment followed by a highly decorated cloak or coat. Taoists have a 'scarlet gown' (絳袍) which is made of a large square-shaped cloak sewn at the hem to create very long deep sleeves used in very formal rituals.[25] They are often scarlet or crimson in colour with wide edging and embroidered with intricate symbols and motifs such as the eight trigrams and the yin and yang Taiji symbol.

Buddhist have a cloak with gold lines on a scarlet background creating a brickwork pattern which is wrapped around over the left shoulder and secured at the right side of the body with cords. There may be further decorations, especially for high priests.[26]

Daoists, Buddhists and Confucians may have white stripe chevrons.

Types of Religious Clothing
Name Hanzi Definition Description Period Images
Fusha

or

Haiqing

彿裟

or

海青

"sea-blue".[27] Buddhist priests' full dress ceremonial robes. It is also worn by Zhenyi priests in Taiwan; it is blue in colour.[27]

Fayi (法衣); "ritual clothing"[28]

Jiangyi or Jiangpao 絳衣 or

絳袍

"Robe of descent",[29] or "scarlet robe".[25][30] A square-shaped poncho-like upper outer garment; the square symbolizes the earth which is perceived as square in Chinese cosmology.[31][30][32] It has motifs such as the sun, moon, Three heavens, stars and constellations, Sacred (golden) tower and flying cranes, Wu yue, Mountain peaks and cosmic waters.[31]It is worn by high ranking taoist priests, e.g. Grandmasters.[31] It is a formal outfit worn during Taoist ceremonies.[33] Ming- Present      
   
Huayi 花衣 "Flowery robe" It is a ritual robe, worn under the jiangyi.[32] It is well decorated with motif, such as dragons, clouds, mountains, cranes and the seven stars Dipper.[28] It is worn by seniors and high ranking taoist priests.[28] Unknown- Present
Banyi 班衣 "Colourful robe" It is a ritual robe; it can have embroidered borders but the clothing is typically monochrome, mostly red in colour. It is worn for during daily recitations of scriptures in a worship hall before divinities.[28] Unknown – Present  
Daopao 道袍 "Taoist robe"

or

"Robe of the Dao"

It is worn by middle-rank Taoist priests.[34] It is red in colour and is covered with decorations, such as bagua and cranes.[27] Unknown – Present      
Daoyi 道衣 A wide-sleeved, cross-collared gown worn by Taoist priests and nuns; it is a standard type of clothing.[35] Unknown- Present
De luo 得罗 An indigo formal ritual clothing, worn by Taoism priests in the Quanzhen order; the blue colour is a symbolism for the East.[27] It is cross-collared.[32] Unknown – Present
Da gua 大褂 "Great gown"[27] It is a common type of informal, daily clothing worn by Taoists; in present days, it is mostly narrow-sleeved and blue in colour.[32] Unknown – Present
Jieyi 戒衣 "Precept robes"[28] or "ordination robes" It is a large sleeved, monochrome yellow-coloured, cross-collar robe with black trims.[28][32][36] Unknown- Present

Handwear edit

Gloves and mitts edit

See also edit

References edit

  1. ^ a b c d e f g "Secrets of Women's Underwear". www.chinadaily.com.cn. Retrieved 2022-01-10.
  2. ^ a b "Hanfu History of Ancient Chinese Underwear – 2022". www.newhanfu.com. 2020. Retrieved 2022-01-11.
  3. ^ a b Cho, Woohyun; Yi, Jaeyoon; Kim, Jinyoung (2015). "The dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and diaspora of theTerlig". Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae. 68 (3): 22–29. doi:10.1556/062.2015.68.3.2. ISSN 0001-6446.
  4. ^ a b Finnane, Antonia (2008). Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation. New York: Columbia University Press. p. 45. ISBN 978-0-231-14350-9. OCLC 84903948.
  5. ^ 周锡保 (Oct 1986), 《中国古代服饰史》 (PDF) (in Chinese) (2nd ed.), 中国戏剧出版社, p. 263, retrieved May 17, 2009
  6. ^ 朱和平 (July 2001), 《中国服饰史稿》 (PDF) (in Chinese) (1st ed.), 中州古籍出版社, pp. 222–223, retrieved May 20, 2009
  7. ^ a b Milburn, Olivia; Yan, Ying (2015). The Spring and autumn annals of Master Yan. Leiden: Brill. p. 319. ISBN 978-90-04-30966-1. OCLC 933295487.
  8. ^ Xu, Zhongguo Gudai Lisu Cidian, p. 7.
  9. ^ Chen, BuYun (2019), Riello, Giorgio; Rublack, Ulinka (eds.), "Wearing the Hat of Loyalty: Imperial Power and Dress Reform in Ming Dynasty China", The Right to Dress: Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective, c.1200–1800, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, pp. 416–434, doi:10.1017/9781108567541.017, ISBN 978-1-108-47591-4, S2CID 165356490, retrieved 2021-02-16
  10. ^ 臧, 迎春 (2003). 臧, 迎春 (ed.). 中国传统服饰. 臧迎春, 李竹润. 五洲传播出版社. ISBN 7508502795.
  11. ^ Volpp, Sophie (June 2005). "The Gift of a Python Robe: The Circulation of Objects in "Jin Ping Mei"". Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies. 65 (1): 133–158. doi:10.2307/25066765. JSTOR 25066765.
  12. ^ "67". History of Ming. 忠静服仿古玄端服,色用深青,以纻丝纱罗为之。三品以上云,四品以下素,缘以蓝青,前后饰本等花样补子。深衣用玉色。素带,如古大夫之带制,青表绿缘边并里。素履,青绿绦结。白袜。
  13. ^ Sullivan, Lawrence R. (2021). Historical dictionary of Chinese culture. Nancy Liu-Sullivan. Lanham, Maryland. p. 173. ISBN 978-1-5381-4604-0. OCLC 1233321993.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  14. ^ Long, Wei; Lee, Eun-Young (2010-05-28). . Korean Association of Human Ecology: 125–126. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2021-04-10.
  15. ^ "Types and Wear Styles of Tang Dynasty Women's Clothing". www.newhanfu.com. 10 November 2020. Retrieved 2021-04-10.
  16. ^ a b c "Study on Jianqun(striped skirt) in Archaeological Data from the Jin to Tang Dynasties--《Archaeology and Cultural Relics》2010年02期". en.cnki.com.cn. Retrieved 2021-04-10.
  17. ^ Chen, Buyun (2019). Empire of style : silk and fashion in Tang China. Seattle: University of Washington Press. p. 84. ISBN 978-0-295-74531-2. OCLC 1101879641.
  18. ^ Chen, Buyun (2019). Empire of style : silk and fashion in Tang China. Seattle: University of Washington Press. p. 52. ISBN 978-0-295-74531-2. OCLC 1101879641.
  19. ^ a b c d e f g Hua, Mei; 华梅 (2004). Zhongguo fu shi (Di 1 ban ed.). Beijing: Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she. ISBN 7-5085-0540-9. OCLC 60568032.
  20. ^ a b c "Guide to Traditional Chinese Clothing – Hanfu". www.newhanfu.com. 2 November 2020. Retrieved 2021-03-12.
  21. ^ a b c d "Skirt (China), 19th century". Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. Retrieved 2021-04-10.
  22. ^ Bonds, Alexandra B. (2008). Beijing opera costumes : the visual communication of character and culture. Honolulu: University of Hawaiʻi Press. p. 168. ISBN 978-1-4356-6584-2. OCLC 256864936.
  23. ^ Anonymous (2018-10-31). "Rainbow Skirt". Cleveland Museum of Art. Retrieved 2021-04-10.
  24. ^ Styling Shanghai. Christopher Breward, Juliette MacDonald. London, UK. 2020. pp. 47–50, 54. ISBN 978-1-350-05114-0. OCLC 1029205918.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link)
  25. ^ a b . taoism.org.hk. Archived from the original on 6 March 2008.
  26. ^ "High Priest of the Shaolin Monastery". Newhanfu.
  27. ^ a b c d e The encyclopedia of taoism. Fabrizio Pregadio. Richmond: Curzon. 2002. p. 457. ISBN 978-1-135-79634-1. OCLC 810277082.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  28. ^ a b c d e f Herrou, Adeline (2016). A World of Their Own : Daoist Monks and Their Community in Contemporary China. St Petersburg: Three Pines Press. p. 47. ISBN 978-1-365-53752-3. OCLC 1011219060.
  29. ^ "Collecting Silk · Mellon Projects". glam.uoregon.edu. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  30. ^ a b Dusenberry, Mary M. (2004). Flowers, dragons and pine trees : Asian textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art. Carol Bier, Helen Foresman Spencer Museum of Art (1 ed.). New York: Hudson Hills Press. p. 136. ISBN 1-55595-238-0. OCLC 55016186.
  31. ^ a b c "From the Land of the Immortals | RISD Museum". risdmuseum.org. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  32. ^ a b c d e "What is Taoist Clothing? – 2021". www.newhanfu.com. 2020. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  33. ^ "Daoist priest's robe 18th century". www.metmuseum.org. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  34. ^ "Daopao (Taoist priest's robe) | RISD Museum". risdmuseum.org. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  35. ^ Komjathy, Louis (2013). The Daoist tradition : an introduction. London. ISBN 978-1-4411-1669-7. OCLC 819275585.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  36. ^ The encyclopedia of taoism. Fabrizio Pregadio. Richmond: Curzon. 2002. pp. 286, 457. ISBN 978-1-135-79634-1. OCLC 810277082.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)

list, hanfu, hanfu, historical, clothing, chinese, here, categorized, clothing, style, contents, informal, wear, semi, formal, wear, formal, wear, court, dress, court, dress, emperors, court, dress, officials, court, dress, women, cloaks, lower, garments, reli. Hanfu are the historical clothing of the Han Chinese here categorized by clothing style Contents 1 Informal wear 2 Semi formal wear 3 Formal wear 4 Court dress 4 1 Court dress of emperors 4 2 Court dress of officials 4 3 Court dress for women 5 Cloaks 6 Lower garments 7 Religious clothing 8 Handwear 8 1 Gloves and mitts 9 See also 10 ReferencesInformal wear edit nbsp Two traditional forms of ruqun 襦裙 a type of Han Chinese clothing worn primarily by women Cuffs and sleeves on the upper garment may be tighter or looser depending on style A short skirt or weighted braid with weight provided by a jade or gold pendant is sometimes worn to improve aesthetics or comfort of the basic ruqun Types include tops and bottoms long skirt and one piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times shenyi Zhongyi 中衣 which is usually the inner garment much like a Western T shirt and pants can be wear along in casual The typical set of informal wear consists of two or three layers The first layer is mostly zhongyi 中衣 The next layer is the main layer which is mostly closed at the front There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front For footwear white socks and black cloth shoes with white soles are the norm But in the past shoes may have a front face panel attached to the tip of the shoes List of Inner garments Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period ImagesZhōngyi 中衣 nbsp Baofu 抱腹 Han 1 Dudōu 肚兜 兜肚 or 兜兜 Qing nbsp Hehuan Jin 合欢襟 Yuan dynasty 2 Liǎngdang 两当 It is an underwear which is made up of a square shaped back and front panels 1 A form of hufu It was introduced in the Central Plains by the nomads of China 2 Wei and Jin 1 Mǒxiōng 抹胸 Song 1 Xieyi 亵衣 Pre Han 1 Xinyi 心衣 Han 1 Zhǔyao 主腰 Ming 1 List of informal wear Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period ImagesZhiju 直裾 Straight lapelled full body garment Pre Qin Han nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Quju 曲裾 Diagonal body wrapped full body garment Pre Qin Han nbsp nbsp Kuzhe 裤褶 Clothing with trousers for riding or military style clothing 3 4 A short coat with trousers Pre Qin Ming nbsp nbsp Paofu 袍服Yesapao 曳撒 or 一撒 A form of kuzhe 3 4 Ming Modern nbsp nbsp Zhi sun fu or yisefu 质孙服 or 一色服 robe of one colour Introduced in Yuan later became a uniform for the military officials Ming Yuan MingRuqun 襦裙 Jacket and skirt An upper garment covered by a separate skirt A common clothing for women Pre Qin Ming Modern nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Ǎoqun Shanqun 袄裙 衫裙 A short coat with a long skirt underneath A common clothing for women Han Ming Modern nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Zhiduō 直裰 Straight robe Similar to zhiju but with vents at sides and cuffed sleeves A common attire for men 5 6 Tang Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp Modern nbsp Daopao 道袍 Taoist robe Worn by Taoist priests and normal scholars Song Ming Modern nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Shuǐtianyi 水田衣 Ming Qing nbsp Bǎijiayi 百家衣 Liu Song Modern nbsp nbsp Semi formal wear editGenerally this form of wear is suitable for meeting guests or going to meetings and other special cultural days This form of dress is often worn by the nobility or the upper class as they are often expensive pieces of clothing usually made of silks and damasks The coat sleeves are often deeper than the shenyi to create a more voluminous appearance A piece of ancient Chinese clothing can be made semi formal by the addition of the following appropriate items Chang 裳 a pleated skirt Bixi 蔽膝 a cloth attached from the waist covering front of legs Zhaoshan 罩衫 long open fronted coatList of semi formal wear Romanization Hanzi Definition Period ImagesBanbi 半臂 A half sleeved waistcoat Tang Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Bijia 比甲 An open sided vest Ming nbsp Beizi orPifeng 褙子or 披风 Large loose outer coat with loose and long sleeves Song Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp Formal wear editIn addition to informal and semi formal wear there is a form of dress that is worn only at confucian rituals important sacrifices religious activities or by special people who are entitled to wear them such as officials and emperors The most formal dress civilians can wear is the xuanduan sometimes called yuanduan 元端 7 8 which consists of a black or dark blue top garment that runs to the knees with long sleeve often with white piping a bottom red chang a red bixi which can have a motif and or be edged in black an optional white belt with two white streamers hanging from the side or slightly to the front called peishou 佩綬 and a long black guan Additionally wearers may carry a long jade gui 圭 or wooden hu 笏 tablet used when greeting royalty This form of dress is mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies such as Ji Tian 祭天 and Ji Zu 祭祖 etc but is also appropriate for state occasions The xuanduan is basically a simplified version of full court dress of the officials and the nobility List of formal wear Romanization Hanzi Definition Period ImagesXuanduan Yuanduan 玄端 元端 Literally dark solemn a very formal dark robe 7 9 Pre Qin Song nbsp Shenyi 深衣 A long full body garment Song Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Yuanlingshan Panlingpao 圓領衫 盤領袍 Closed round collared robe Mostly used for official occasions Sui Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Lanshan 襴衫 Closed round collared robe with black edges Mostly used for academical dress worn by scholars and students 生員 taking the imperial examination Tang Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Daxiushan 大袖衫 Large Sleeve Gown Worn by royal women Five dynasties Tang nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Chang ao 長襖 A long overcoat Ming nbsp Zaju chuishao fu or Guiyi 杂裾垂髾服 or 袿衣 A formal dress worn by Elite women Cao Wei to Northern and Southern dynasties nbsp Court dress edit nbsp Government officials in Changfu during the Wanli era Ming dynastyCourt dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch such as an enthronement ceremony The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions The practical use of court dress is now obsolete in the modern age since there is no reigning monarch in China anymore Those in academia or officialdom have distinctive gowns known as changfu 常服 in court dress terms This varies over the ages but they are typically round collared gowns closed at the front The most distinct feature is the headgear which has wings attached Only those who passed the civil examinations are entitled to wear them but a variation of it can be worn by ordinary scholars and laymen and even for a groom at a wedding but with no hat Court dress of emperors edit Court dress of Emperors Romanization Hanzi Definition Period ImagesLongpao 龙袍 Jifu 吉服 The dragon robe for special occasions Shang Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp Changfu 常服 The dragon robe for daily wear Tang Qing nbsp nbsp nbsp Mianfu 冕服 Attire worn by emperors and crown princes Shang Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp Tongtianguanfu 通天冠服 Tongtian literally means direct links with heaven 10 Ceremonial dress Shang Ming nbsp Bianfu 弁服 Occasional court dress Also worn by officials or the nobility Shang Ming nbsp Court dress of officials edit Court dress of Officials Guanfu 官服 Romanization Hanzi Definition Period ImagesChaofu 朝服 A red ceremonial court dress of emperor officials or nobility Zhou Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp Gongfu 公服 Formal court dress according to ranks 11 Tang Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp Changfu 常服 Everyday court dress Song Qing nbsp nbsp nbsp Bufu 补服 Changfu sewn with Mandarin square Ming Qing nbsp nbsp nbsp Zhongjingfu 忠静服 Retired official s bufu with same colour long cloth belt 12 Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp Cifu 賜服 Ceremonial court dress of the highest rank officials The right to wear such dress was bestowed by emperors as a special honour Ming Qing nbsp nbsp nbsp Mangfu 蟒服 Also known as the four clawed dragon robe or python robe It is a type of Cifu Ming Qing nbsp nbsp Feiyufu 飞鱼服 Also known as flying fish robe It is a type of Cifu Ming nbsp Douniufu 斗牛服 Also known as fighting bull robe It is a type of Cifu Ming nbsp Official Dress Codes of Officials in Ming Dynasty Precedence Rank Robe Color Animal on Patch Civil Animal on Patch Military Exemplified Positions Not All Inclusive 1st Highest First Rank Primary 正一品 Red crowned crane Lion Emperor s Chief Advisor 太師 Regional Commander 都督2nd First Rank Secondary 從一品 Emperor s Assistant 少傅 Regional Executive Officer 都督同知3rd Second Rank Primary 正二品 Golden pheasant Lion Crown Prince s Teaching Assistant太子少師 Secretary of Defense 兵部尚書4th Second Rank Secondary 從二品 Governor 布政使 Provincial Deputy Commander 都指揮同知5th Third Rank Primary 正三品 Peacock Tiger Mayor of Beijing 順天府尹 Deputy Secretary of Labor 工部侍郎6th Third Rank Secondary 從三品 Minister of the Imperial Stud 太僕寺卿 Minister of Salt Supply 都轉鹽運使7th Fourth Rank Primary 正四品 Wild goose Leopard Eunuch Position Handler of the Imperial Seal 掌印太監 Minister of Foreign Affairs 鴻臚寺卿8th Fourth Rank Secondary 從四品 Principal of the Imperial Academy 國子監祭酒 Governor s Junior Assistant 參議9th Fifth Rank Primary 正五品 Silver pheasant Bear Principal of the Imperial Medical Academy 太醫院使 Grand Secretary of the Cabinet 内閣大學士10th Fifth Rank Secondary 從五品 Junior Scholar at the Imperial Library 翰林院侍讀學士 Deputy Manager of the Department of Justice 刑部員外郎11th Sixth Rank Primary 正六品 Egret Panther Female Position Manager of Royal House Records 司記 Minister of Buddhist Affairs 僧錄司善世12th Sixth Rank Secondary 從六品 Deputy Mayor 同知 Deputy Manager of Minority Affairs 安撫司副使13th Seventh Rank Primary 正七品 Mandarin duck Panther Auditor of the Supreme Court 大理寺評事 Investigating censor 監察御史14th Seventh Rank Secondary 從七品 Monitor of the Six Ministries 給事中 Deputy Ambassador 行人司左司副15th Eighth Rank Primary 正八品 Oriole Rhinoceros Accountant at the Department of Finance 戶部照磨 Deputy County Administrator 縣丞16th Eighth Rank Secondary 從八品 Assistant Priest at the Ministry of Imperial Sacrifices 太常寺祀丞 Supervisor at the Ministry of Royal Food Service 光祿寺監事17th Ninth Rank Primary 正九品 Quail A horse in the sea not seahorse Chief Servant at the Ministry of Royal Theatres 教坊司奉鑾 Chief Officer at the Headquarter of Official Travels 會同館大使18th Lowest Ninth Rank Secondary 從九品 Warden 司獄 Marshal 巡檢Court dress for women edit Court dress of Woman Romanization Hanzi Definition Period ImagesHuidi yi 褘翟衣 Attire worn by empresses and crown princesses Zhou Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp Dashanxiapei 大衫霞帔 The large gown with the radiance hanging scarf Ceremonial court dress of empresses and mingfu Song Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp Changfu 常服 Everyday court dress of mingfu Ming nbsp nbsp Bufu 补服 Changfu sewn with Mandarin square Ceremonial court dress of mingfu Ming nbsp nbsp nbsp Cloaks edit nbsp Doupeng 斗篷 a cloakLower garments editMain articles Qun Chinese skirts and Ku and kun Chinese trousers Types of Women s skirts Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period ImagesChang Shang 裳 A narrow ankle length skirt 13 Shang ZhouLiuxianqun 留仙裙 Fairy skirt 14 HanJianqun or Jiansequn 间裙 or 间色裙 Stripped skirts 15 It was a high waisted skirts which integrated both the techniques of the Han dynasty and foreign techniques from the Western Region 16 In the Sixteen kingdoms the skirt had panels of different colours which could vary to 6 8 12 regions 16 From the Northern dynasty to the Tang dynasty the skirt had denser multiple stripes 16 In Tang the stripped skirt was A line 17 Wei Jin Northern and Southern dynasties Tang dynasty nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Bainiaoqun 百鸟裙 Hundred bird feather skirt 18 A feather skirt worn by a princess in Mid Tang the skirt was made with the feathers from a hundred birds 19 TangShiliuqun 石榴裙 Pomegranate skirt A red skirt which was very popular 19 Tang nbsp nbsp nbsp Yujinqun 郁金裙 Turmeric skirt A yellow skirt which was dyed with turmeric 19 TangLiangpianqun 两片裙 An unpleated skirt which is composed of two pieces of fabric sewn to the same waistband The middle part of the skirt overlap and are not sewn together 20 SongBaidiequn 百迭裙 A one piece pleated skirt the top is narrow and the bottom is wide 20 SongSanjianqun 三裥裙 A skirt made of 4 skirts pieces sewn together 20 SongZhejianqun 褶裥裙 Folded skirt Song nbsp Mamianqun 马面裙 Horse face skirt 21 A skirt made of two pieces of fabric sewn to the same waistband The sides of the skirt has knife pleats whereas the back and front have flat panels 22 Ming Qing nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Baijianqun 百襇裙 Hundred pleated skirt 21 QingYuehuaqun 月華裙 Moonlight skirt 21 Made of ten pieces of fabric which was then tucked in 10 pleats each pleats had a different colour which was light It was a popular skirt in the early Qing dynasty 19 Qing nbsp nbsp Yulinqun 鱼鳞裙 Lit fish scale skirt A skirt where pleats were joined with silk threads in order to makes creases which look like the scales of a fish 19 The pleats were very tiny 21 Qing nbsp Rainbow skirt 23 Qing nbsp Langanqun 襕干裙 Chinese ink painting skirt A skirt where scattered flowers pattern were printed 19 Qing nbsp nbsp Fengweiqun 凤尾裙 Lit Phoenix tail skirt An underskirt which is decorated with long ribbons of different colours of silk the ribbons were narrow Different embroidery is found on in each ribbon strips It was popular during the reign of Kangxi and Qianlong 19 QingBaizhequn 百摺裙 An all around small pleated skirt 24 Qing RepublicReligious clothing editSee also Daojiao fushi clothing of Taoists practitioners and devotees Zhiduo clothing and Daopao Those in the religious orders wear a plain middle layer garment followed by a highly decorated cloak or coat Taoists have a scarlet gown 絳袍 which is made of a large square shaped cloak sewn at the hem to create very long deep sleeves used in very formal rituals 25 They are often scarlet or crimson in colour with wide edging and embroidered with intricate symbols and motifs such as the eight trigrams and the yin and yang Taiji symbol Buddhist have a cloak with gold lines on a scarlet background creating a brickwork pattern which is wrapped around over the left shoulder and secured at the right side of the body with cords There may be further decorations especially for high priests 26 Daoists Buddhists and Confucians may have white stripe chevrons Types of Religious Clothing Name Hanzi Definition Description Period ImagesFusha orHaiqing 彿裟 or海青 sea blue 27 Buddhist priests full dress ceremonial robes It is also worn by Zhenyi priests in Taiwan it is blue in colour 27 Fayi 法衣 ritual clothing 28 Jiangyi or Jiangpao 絳衣 or 絳袍 Robe of descent 29 or scarlet robe 25 30 A square shaped poncho like upper outer garment the square symbolizes the earth which is perceived as square in Chinese cosmology 31 30 32 It has motifs such as the sun moon Three heavens stars and constellations Sacred golden tower and flying cranes Wu yue Mountain peaks and cosmic waters 31 It is worn by high ranking taoist priests e g Grandmasters 31 It is a formal outfit worn during Taoist ceremonies 33 Ming Present nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp nbsp Huayi 花衣 Flowery robe It is a ritual robe worn under the jiangyi 32 It is well decorated with motif such as dragons clouds mountains cranes and the seven stars Dipper 28 It is worn by seniors and high ranking taoist priests 28 Unknown PresentBanyi 班衣 Colourful robe It is a ritual robe it can have embroidered borders but the clothing is typically monochrome mostly red in colour It is worn for during daily recitations of scriptures in a worship hall before divinities 28 Unknown Present nbsp Daopao 道袍 Taoist robe or Robe of the Dao It is worn by middle rank Taoist priests 34 It is red in colour and is covered with decorations such as bagua and cranes 27 Unknown Present nbsp nbsp nbsp Daoyi 道衣 A wide sleeved cross collared gown worn by Taoist priests and nuns it is a standard type of clothing 35 Unknown PresentDe luo 得罗 An indigo formal ritual clothing worn by Taoism priests in the Quanzhen order the blue colour is a symbolism for the East 27 It is cross collared 32 Unknown PresentDa gua 大褂 Great gown 27 It is a common type of informal daily clothing worn by Taoists in present days it is mostly narrow sleeved and blue in colour 32 Unknown PresentJieyi 戒衣 Precept robes 28 or ordination robes It is a large sleeved monochrome yellow coloured cross collar robe with black trims 28 32 36 Unknown PresentHandwear editGloves and mitts edit nbsp Han mitts Mawangdui Tomb Han dynasty See also editChinese academic dress Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing Garment collars in hanfu Hanfu Hanfu accessories Hanfu footwear List of hanfu headwear Mandarin squareReferences edit a b c d e f g Secrets of Women s Underwear www chinadaily com cn Retrieved 2022 01 10 a b Hanfu History of Ancient Chinese Underwear 2022 www newhanfu com 2020 Retrieved 2022 01 11 a b Cho Woohyun Yi Jaeyoon Kim Jinyoung 2015 The dress of the Mongol Empire Genealogy and diaspora of theTerlig Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae 68 3 22 29 doi 10 1556 062 2015 68 3 2 ISSN 0001 6446 a b Finnane Antonia 2008 Changing clothes in China fashion history nation New York Columbia University Press p 45 ISBN 978 0 231 14350 9 OCLC 84903948 周锡保 Oct 1986 中国古代服饰史 PDF in Chinese 2nd ed 中国戏剧出版社 p 263 retrieved May 17 2009 朱和平 July 2001 中国服饰史稿 PDF in Chinese 1st ed 中州古籍出版社 pp 222 223 retrieved May 20 2009 a b Milburn Olivia Yan Ying 2015 The Spring and autumn annals of Master Yan Leiden Brill p 319 ISBN 978 90 04 30966 1 OCLC 933295487 Xu Zhongguo Gudai Lisu Cidian p 7 Chen BuYun 2019 Riello Giorgio Rublack Ulinka eds Wearing the Hat of Loyalty Imperial Power and Dress Reform in Ming Dynasty China The Right to Dress Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective c 1200 1800 Cambridge Cambridge University Press pp 416 434 doi 10 1017 9781108567541 017 ISBN 978 1 108 47591 4 S2CID 165356490 retrieved 2021 02 16 臧 迎春 2003 臧 迎春 ed 中国传统服饰 臧迎春 李竹润 五洲传播出版社 ISBN 7508502795 Volpp Sophie June 2005 The Gift of a Python Robe The Circulation of Objects in Jin Ping Mei Harvard Journal of Asiatic Studies 65 1 133 158 doi 10 2307 25066765 JSTOR 25066765 67 History of Ming 忠静服仿古玄端服 色用深青 以纻丝纱罗为之 三品以上云 四品以下素 缘以蓝青 前后饰本等花样补子 深衣用玉色 素带 如古大夫之带制 青表绿缘边并里 素履 青绿绦结 白袜 Sullivan Lawrence R 2021 Historical dictionary of Chinese culture Nancy Liu Sullivan Lanham Maryland p 173 ISBN 978 1 5381 4604 0 OCLC 1233321993 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link Long Wei Lee Eun Young 2010 05 28 Comparison of Aesthetics Between Han and Tang Dynasties Women Costumes Korean Association of Human Ecology 125 126 Archived from the original PDF on 2021 04 10 Types and Wear Styles of Tang Dynasty Women s Clothing www newhanfu com 10 November 2020 Retrieved 2021 04 10 a b c Study on Jianqun striped skirt in Archaeological Data from the Jin to Tang Dynasties Archaeology and Cultural Relics 2010年02期 en cnki com cn Retrieved 2021 04 10 Chen Buyun 2019 Empire of style silk and fashion in Tang China Seattle University of Washington Press p 84 ISBN 978 0 295 74531 2 OCLC 1101879641 Chen Buyun 2019 Empire of style silk and fashion in Tang China Seattle University of Washington Press p 52 ISBN 978 0 295 74531 2 OCLC 1101879641 a b c d e f g Hua Mei 华梅 2004 Zhongguo fu shi Di 1 ban ed Beijing Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she ISBN 7 5085 0540 9 OCLC 60568032 a b c Guide to Traditional Chinese Clothing Hanfu www newhanfu com 2 November 2020 Retrieved 2021 03 12 a b c d Skirt China 19th century Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum Retrieved 2021 04 10 Bonds Alexandra B 2008 Beijing opera costumes the visual communication of character and culture Honolulu University of Hawaiʻi Press p 168 ISBN 978 1 4356 6584 2 OCLC 256864936 Anonymous 2018 10 31 Rainbow Skirt Cleveland Museum of Art Retrieved 2021 04 10 Styling Shanghai Christopher Breward Juliette MacDonald London UK 2020 pp 47 50 54 ISBN 978 1 350 05114 0 OCLC 1029205918 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link CS1 maint others link a b Daoist Headdresses and Dress Scarlet Robe taoism org hk Archived from the original on 6 March 2008 High Priest of the Shaolin Monastery Newhanfu a b c d e The encyclopedia of taoism Fabrizio Pregadio Richmond Curzon 2002 p 457 ISBN 978 1 135 79634 1 OCLC 810277082 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint others link a b c d e f Herrou Adeline 2016 A World of Their Own Daoist Monks and Their Community in Contemporary China St Petersburg Three Pines Press p 47 ISBN 978 1 365 53752 3 OCLC 1011219060 Collecting Silk Mellon Projects glam uoregon edu Retrieved 2021 04 05 a b Dusenberry Mary M 2004 Flowers dragons and pine trees Asian textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art Carol Bier Helen Foresman Spencer Museum of Art 1 ed New York Hudson Hills Press p 136 ISBN 1 55595 238 0 OCLC 55016186 a b c From the Land of the Immortals RISD Museum risdmuseum org Retrieved 2021 04 05 a b c d e What is Taoist Clothing 2021 www newhanfu com 2020 Retrieved 2021 04 05 Daoist priest s robe 18th century www metmuseum org Retrieved 2021 04 05 Daopao Taoist priest s robe RISD Museum risdmuseum org Retrieved 2021 04 05 Komjathy Louis 2013 The Daoist tradition an introduction London ISBN 978 1 4411 1669 7 OCLC 819275585 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link The encyclopedia of taoism Fabrizio Pregadio Richmond Curzon 2002 pp 286 457 ISBN 978 1 135 79634 1 OCLC 810277082 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint others link Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title List of hanfu amp oldid 1179865505, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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