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Jeogori

January 07, 2023

Jeogori (Korean: 저고리; Hanja: 赤古里; Korean pronunciation: [t͡ɕʌ̹ɡo̞ɾi]) is a basic upper garment of the hanbok, a traditional Korean garment, which has been worn by both men and women.[1] Men usually wear the jeogori with a baji or pants while women wear the jeogori with chima, or skirts. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.[2][3][4]

Jeogori
A white jeogori with red goreum (ribbon)
Korean name
Hangul
저고리
Hanja
赤古里
Revised Romanizationjeogori
McCune–Reischauerchŏgori

Etymology

The jeogori has been worn since ancient times and went by a variety of names such as yu (Korean: 유; Hanja: 襦; lit. jacket), boksam (Korean: 복삼; Hanja: 複杉), and wihae (Korean: 위해; Hanja: 尉解) in the Three Kingdoms period (57 BC – 668 AD).[5]

Although it is unknown when the term jeogori began to be used to refer to the garment, it is assumed to have appeared in the late Goryeo period around King Chungnyeol's reign. The first historical document to mention the jeogori is in the Cheongjeonui (Korean: 천전의; Hanja: 遷奠儀) of Queen Wongyeong, which was a funeral ceremony for carrying the coffin out of the palace. The document written in 1420 during the second reign of Sejong the Great records jeokgori (Korean: 저고리; Hanja: 赤古里) and danjeokgori (短赤古里).[5][2] However, it is not clear whether the record is a hanja (Chinese character) transliteration of a Korean word or Mongolian influence. Before the Goryeo period, such an upper garment was referred to as wihae (Korean: 위해; Hanja: 尉解; Chinese: 尉解; pinyin: wèijiě) in Silla.[6] As the uihae was a transliteration of the Silla language, dialect forms such as uti and uchi still remain to present.[2][3][4]

Composition

 
Jeogori composition: 1. hwajang 2. godae 3. kkeutdong (somae buri) 4. somae 5. goreum 6. u 7. doryeon 8, 11. jindong 9. gil 10. baerae 12. git 13. dongjeong

Traditionally, a jeogori is made out of leather, woolen fabrics, silk, hemp or ramie.[7][8][9] Modern Korean designers sometimes use other materials such as lace.[7][10] There are several types of jeogori according to fabric, sewing technique, and shape.[4][5]

The basic form of a jeogori consists of gil (Korean: 길), git (Korean: 깃), dongjeong (Korean: 동정), goreum (Korean: 고름) and sleeves somae: the gil is the large section of the garment in both front and back side and git is a band of fabric that trims the collar. The dongjeong is a removable white collar placed over the end of the git and is generally squared off. The goreum are coat strings attached to the breast part to tie the jeogori.[11] Women's jeogori may have kkeutdong (Korean: 끝동), a different coloured cuff placed on the end of the sleeves. The form of jeogori has been changed as time goes by.[4]

History

Previously in Korea, jeogori were worn over bottom garments.[7] The earliest known depictions of the jeogori are on Goguryeo murals.[12]

The original silhouette for Hanbok jeogori shared similarities with the clothing of the ancient nomadic people of Eurasia due to the cultural exchanges that ancient Koreans had with the Scythians.[13][14] The ancient jeogori had an open form, a collar which crossed to the left (Korean: 좌임; Hanja: 左衽), narrow sleeves, and was hip-length which were similar features found in the Scythian clothing-style.[13][15] Some ancient jeogori also had a front central closure similar to a kaftan;[1] this form of jeogori with a central closure is mostly found during the Goguryeo period and was worn by people of lower status.[16] The jeogori initially closed with the front, central closure; it then changed to left closure before changing again to right closure (Korean: 우임; Hanja: 右衽).[1] The change in collars direction from right-to-left (i.e. left closure) to left-over-right (i.e. right closure), along with the use of wide sleeves, which are found in many jackets and coats were due ancient Chinese influences; these Chinese influences on the jeogori are reflected and depicted in Goguryeo paintings.[17][18][19][3] The closure of the jeogori on the right side is an imitation of the Chinese jackets.[20] The closure to the right became an accepted standard since the sixth century AD.[1]

The jeogori of the Ruling class of Silla was influenced from Chinese fashions of Tang influence in the Silla Dynasty by Kim Chun-Chu (648CE). But the most commoners wore only a style of indigenous jeogori distinct from that of the Ruling class of Silla.[21]

During the Goryeo Period (918–1392), jeogori became shorter, with slimmer sleeves.[7]

Joseon

In the Joseon Period, jeogori lengths and style fluctuated depending on current fashion and social standing.[7]

In the 16th century, women's jeogori were long, wide, and covered the waist. The length of women's jeogori gradually shortened. A heoritti (Korean: 허리띠) or jorinmal (Korean: 졸잇말) was worn to cover the chest.[12] This was to fit in style with a large wig and skirt.[22]

Modern styles

In contemporary Korea, the sumptuary laws within different social classes were lifted and colours, decorations, and fabrics that were exclusive to the upper classes were open to all classes. This allowed for the growth of diverse traditional design elements in hanbok styles. However, in the 20th and 21st centuries, the traditional Korean clothing has not been worn every day by most people.[7] The hanbok became more reserved for special events, such as ceremonial or bridal wear, which carries onto current time.[7] During their own engagement celebrations, women may wear pink jeogori.[23] After they are married, women may wear indigo jeogori.[23] Additionally, modern silhouettes are commonly slimmer and more simplified then historical styles.[7][24]

Gallery

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    Jeogori for women

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See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d Lee, Samuel Songhoon (17 December 2015). Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition. Seoul Selection. ISBN 9781624120565. Retrieved 2 February 2021.
  2. ^ a b c [Jeogori] (in Korean). Empas / EncyKorea. Archived from the original on 9 May 2012. Retrieved 2008-09-29.
  3. ^ a b c [Jeogori] (in Korean). Doosan Encyclopedia. Archived from the original on 16 June 2022. Retrieved 2013-10-15.
  4. ^ a b c d [Jeogori] (in Korean). Empas / Britannica. Archived from the original on 9 May 2012. Retrieved 2008-09-29.
  5. ^ a b c Song, Mikyung. "Jeogori". Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture. Retrieved 2022-06-16.
  6. ^ "太平御覽 : 四夷部二·東夷二 : 新羅". ctext.org. Retrieved 2022-06-16. 禮襦曰尉解
  7. ^ a b c d e f g h Levinson, David; Christensen, Karen (2002). Levinson, David; Christensen, Karen (eds.). Encyclopedia of modern Asia. Vol. 2. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons. pp. 120–121. ISBN 0-684-80617-7. OCLC 49936055.
  8. ^ "V&A · Jogakbo – traditional Korean patchwork". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 2019-05-10.
  9. ^ 박, 선희 (1998) [1998]. "고대 한국의 복식 재료 : 가죽과 모직" [The Clothing Material in Ancient Korea - leather and woolen fabrics -]. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association. 53p: Types of leather and processed goods=83,82,20 Woolen Fabrics and processed goods=114,113,15. ISSN 1226-1548 – via KSI.
  10. ^ "Hanbok ensemble with black lace Yeonan Kim Clan jacket and cream skirt - Victoria & Albert Museum - Search the Collections". m.vam.ac.uk. Retrieved 2019-05-10.
  11. ^ . KBS World. Archived from the original on 2008-03-17. Retrieved 2013-10-17.
  12. ^ a b 허 [Heo], 윤희 [Yeonhee] (2011). "조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져" [The length of the Korean women's jeogori has shortened by 2/3 in 300 years.]. 조선닷컴 (in Korean). Retrieved 6 September 2019.
  13. ^ a b 김 [Kim], 문자 [Munja] (1984). "고대한국복식의 원류에 관한 연구 : 스키타이계 복식문화를 중심으로" [A Study on the Origins of Ancient Korean Clothing: Focusing on Scythian Costume Culture]. EWHA WOMANS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY. Retrieved 6 February 2021.{{cite journal}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  14. ^ Kim, So-Hee; Chae, Keum-Seok (2018). "스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구,고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로" [Scythai's clothing type and style focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea] (PDF). Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association. 20 (1): 61–77. doi:10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61.
  15. ^ Chang, Youngsoo (2020-04-30). "Empirical Review of the Scythian Origin Theory of Ancient Korean Costumes : Analysis of Commonalities and Differences Between Artifacts of the two Costume Types". Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. 70 (2): 188–208. doi:10.7233/jksc.2020.70.2.188. ISSN 1229-6880. S2CID 219652611.
  16. ^ Shim, Hwa-jin (2001). "An Analysis and Comparison of the Characteristics of Traditional Hanbok and Everyday(daily) Hanbok Focusing on the Basic Dress" (PDF). Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스). 5 (5): 77–86. Archived from the original on 2001.
  17. ^ Yi, Kyŏng-ja; 李 京子 (2003). Uri ot kwa changsin'gu : Han'guk chŏnt'ong poksik, kŭ wŏnhyŏng ŭi mihak kwa silche 우리 옷 과 장신구 : 韓國 傳統 服飾, 그 原形 의 美學 과 實際. Na-yŏng Hong, Suk-hwan Chang, Mi-ryang Yi, 洪 那英., 張 淑煥., 李 美亮 (Ch'op'an ed.). Sŏul: Yŏrhwadang. ISBN 89-301-0048-1. OCLC 53475264.
  18. ^ Yi, Kyŏng-ja (2005). Traditional Korean costume. Na-yŏng Hong, Suk-hwan Chang, Mi-ryang Yi. Folkestone, Kent, UK: Global Oriental. ISBN 978-1-905246-04-5. OCLC 62864892.
  19. ^ Chae Keum-Seok (January 2005). "A Study on the Development of Jeogori's Structure and Changes of its Form -Focused on the Era of the Three Kingdoms to United Shilla Era" – via ResearchGate.
  20. ^ Costumes d'enfants : miroir des grands : Établissement public du musée des arts asiatiques Guimet, 20 octobre 2010-24 janvier 2011. Aurélie Samuel, Musée Guimet. Paris: Réunion des musées nationaux. 2010. p. 68. ISBN 978-2-7118-5759-3. OCLC 700141350.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  21. ^ Lee, Han-sang (2014). "신라 복식의 변천과 그 배경" [Transformations of Costume in Silla through Time and Their Background]. The Journal of the Research Institute for Silla Culture. 43: 137–171.
  22. ^ Lee, Gyungja. [Jeogori]. Encyclopedia of Korean Culture (in Korean). Archived from the original on 29 April 2021.
  23. ^ a b "Jacket". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved May 9, 2019.
  24. ^ Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Ed. Valerie Steele. Vol. 1. Detroit, MI:Charles Scribner's Sons, 2005. p82-85. Web.
  • Lee Ho-jeong (2007-05-07). "Clothing with stories of fertility and faith". JoonAng Daily.

External links

 
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Jeogori.

January 07, 2023
jeogori, korean, 저고리, hanja, 赤古里, korean, pronunciation, ɕʌ, basic, upper, garment, hanbok, traditional, korean, garment, which, been, worn, both, women, usually, wear, jeogori, with, baji, pants, while, women, wear, jeogori, with, chima, skirts, covers, arms,. Jeogori Korean 저고리 Hanja 赤古里 Korean pronunciation t ɕʌ ɡo ɾi is a basic upper garment of the hanbok a traditional Korean garment which has been worn by both men and women 1 Men usually wear the jeogori with a baji or pants while women wear the jeogori with chima or skirts It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer s body 2 3 4 JeogoriA white jeogori with red goreum ribbon Korean nameHangul저고리Hanja赤古里Revised RomanizationjeogoriMcCune Reischauerchŏgori Contents 1 Etymology 2 Composition 3 History 3 1 Joseon 4 Modern styles 5 Gallery 6 See also 7 References 8 External linksEtymology EditThe jeogori has been worn since ancient times and went by a variety of names such as yu Korean 유 Hanja 襦 lit jacket boksam Korean 복삼 Hanja 複杉 and wihae Korean 위해 Hanja 尉解 in the Three Kingdoms period 57 BC 668 AD 5 Although it is unknown when the term jeogori began to be used to refer to the garment it is assumed to have appeared in the late Goryeo period around King Chungnyeol s reign The first historical document to mention the jeogori is in the Cheongjeonui Korean 천전의 Hanja 遷奠儀 of Queen Wongyeong which was a funeral ceremony for carrying the coffin out of the palace The document written in 1420 during the second reign of Sejong the Great records jeokgori Korean 저고리 Hanja 赤古里 and danjeokgori 短赤古里 5 2 However it is not clear whether the record is a hanja Chinese character transliteration of a Korean word or Mongolian influence Before the Goryeo period such an upper garment was referred to as wihae Korean 위해 Hanja 尉解 Chinese 尉解 pinyin weijie in Silla 6 As the uihae was a transliteration of the Silla language dialect forms such as uti and uchi still remain to present 2 3 4 Composition Edit Jeogori composition 1 hwajang 2 godae 3 kkeutdong somae buri 4 somae 5 goreum 6 u 7 doryeon 8 11 jindong 9 gil 10 baerae 12 git 13 dongjeong Traditionally a jeogori is made out of leather woolen fabrics silk hemp or ramie 7 8 9 Modern Korean designers sometimes use other materials such as lace 7 10 There are several types of jeogori according to fabric sewing technique and shape 4 5 The basic form of a jeogori consists of gil Korean 길 git Korean 깃 dongjeong Korean 동정 goreum Korean 고름 and sleeves somae the gil is the large section of the garment in both front and back side and git is a band of fabric that trims the collar The dongjeong is a removable white collar placed over the end of the git and is generally squared off The goreum are coat strings attached to the breast part to tie the jeogori 11 Women s jeogori may have kkeutdong Korean 끝동 a different coloured cuff placed on the end of the sleeves The form of jeogori has been changed as time goes by 4 History EditPreviously in Korea jeogori were worn over bottom garments 7 The earliest known depictions of the jeogori are on Goguryeo murals 12 The original silhouette for Hanbok jeogori shared similarities with the clothing of the ancient nomadic people of Eurasia due to the cultural exchanges that ancient Koreans had with the Scythians 13 14 The ancient jeogori had an open form a collar which crossed to the left Korean 좌임 Hanja 左衽 narrow sleeves and was hip length which were similar features found in the Scythian clothing style 13 15 Some ancient jeogori also had a front central closure similar to a kaftan 1 this form of jeogori with a central closure is mostly found during the Goguryeo period and was worn by people of lower status 16 The jeogori initially closed with the front central closure it then changed to left closure before changing again to right closure Korean 우임 Hanja 右衽 1 The change in collars direction from right to left i e left closure to left over right i e right closure along with the use of wide sleeves which are found in many jackets and coats were due ancient Chinese influences these Chinese influences on the jeogori are reflected and depicted in Goguryeo paintings 17 18 19 3 The closure of the jeogori on the right side is an imitation of the Chinese jackets 20 The closure to the right became an accepted standard since the sixth century AD 1 The jeogori of the Ruling class of Silla was influenced from Chinese fashions of Tang influence in the Silla Dynasty by Kim Chun Chu 648CE But the most commoners wore only a style of indigenous jeogori distinct from that of the Ruling class of Silla 21 During the Goryeo Period 918 1392 jeogori became shorter with slimmer sleeves 7 Joseon Edit In the Joseon Period jeogori lengths and style fluctuated depending on current fashion and social standing 7 In the 16th century women s jeogori were long wide and covered the waist The length of women s jeogori gradually shortened A heoritti Korean 허리띠 or jorinmal Korean 졸잇말 was worn to cover the chest 12 This was to fit in style with a large wig and skirt 22 Modern styles EditIn contemporary Korea the sumptuary laws within different social classes were lifted and colours decorations and fabrics that were exclusive to the upper classes were open to all classes This allowed for the growth of diverse traditional design elements in hanbok styles However in the 20th and 21st centuries the traditional Korean clothing has not been worn every day by most people 7 The hanbok became more reserved for special events such as ceremonial or bridal wear which carries onto current time 7 During their own engagement celebrations women may wear pink jeogori 23 After they are married women may wear indigo jeogori 23 Additionally modern silhouettes are commonly slimmer and more simplified then historical styles 7 24 Gallery Edit Jeogori for women See also EditChima jeogori Dangui Dopo Durumagi Hanbok Jeonbok Po SagyusamReferences Edit a b c d Lee Samuel Songhoon 17 December 2015 Hanbok Timeless Fashion Tradition Seoul Selection ISBN 9781624120565 Retrieved 2 February 2021 a b c 저고리 저고리 Jeogori in Korean Empas EncyKorea Archived from the original on 9 May 2012 Retrieved 2008 09 29 a b c 저고리 저고리 Jeogori in Korean Doosan Encyclopedia Archived from the original on 16 June 2022 Retrieved 2013 10 15 a b c d 저고리 저고리 Jeogori in Korean Empas Britannica Archived from the original on 9 May 2012 Retrieved 2008 09 29 a b c Song Mikyung Jeogori Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture Retrieved 2022 06 16 太平御覽 四夷部二 東夷二 新羅 ctext org Retrieved 2022 06 16 禮襦曰尉解 a b c d e f g h Levinson David Christensen Karen 2002 Levinson David Christensen Karen eds Encyclopedia of modern Asia Vol 2 New York Charles Scribner s Sons pp 120 121 ISBN 0 684 80617 7 OCLC 49936055 V amp A Jogakbo traditional Korean patchwork Victoria and Albert Museum Retrieved 2019 05 10 박 선희 1998 1998 고대 한국의 복식 재료 가죽과 모직 The Clothing Material in Ancient Korea leather and woolen fabrics Journal of the Korea Fashion amp Costume Design Association 53p Types of leather and processed goods 83 82 20 Woolen Fabrics and processed goods 114 113 15 ISSN 1226 1548 via KSI Hanbok ensemble with black lace Yeonan Kim Clan jacket and cream skirt Victoria amp Albert Museum Search the Collections m vam ac uk Retrieved 2019 05 10 Traditional clothing KBS World Archived from the original on 2008 03 17 Retrieved 2013 10 17 a b 허 Heo 윤희 Yeonhee 2011 조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2 3나 짧아져 The length of the Korean women s jeogori has shortened by 2 3 in 300 years 조선닷컴 in Korean Retrieved 6 September 2019 a b 김 Kim 문자 Munja 1984 고대한국복식의 원류에 관한 연구 스키타이계 복식문화를 중심으로 A Study on the Origins of Ancient Korean Clothing Focusing on Scythian Costume Culture EWHA WOMANS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Retrieved 6 February 2021 a href Template Cite journal html title Template Cite journal cite journal a CS1 maint url status link Kim So Hee Chae Keum Seok 2018 스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로 Scythai s clothing type and style focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea PDF Journal of the Korea Fashion amp Costume Design Association 20 1 61 77 doi 10 30751 kfcda 2018 20 1 61 Chang Youngsoo 2020 04 30 Empirical Review of the Scythian Origin Theory of Ancient Korean Costumes Analysis of Commonalities and Differences Between Artifacts of the two Costume Types Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 70 2 188 208 doi 10 7233 jksc 2020 70 2 188 ISSN 1229 6880 S2CID 219652611 Shim Hwa jin 2001 An Analysis and Comparison of the Characteristics of Traditional Hanbok and Everyday daily Hanbok Focusing on the Basic Dress PDF Journal of Fashion Business 패션비즈니스 5 5 77 86 Archived from the original on 2001 Yi Kyŏng ja 李 京子 2003 Uri ot kwa changsin gu Han guk chŏnt ong poksik kŭ wŏnhyŏng ŭi mihak kwa silche 우리 옷 과 장신구 韓國 傳統 服飾 그 原形 의 美學 과 實際 Na yŏng Hong Suk hwan Chang Mi ryang Yi 洪 那英 張 淑煥 李 美亮 Ch op an ed Sŏul Yŏrhwadang ISBN 89 301 0048 1 OCLC 53475264 Yi Kyŏng ja 2005 Traditional Korean costume Na yŏng Hong Suk hwan Chang Mi ryang Yi Folkestone Kent UK Global Oriental ISBN 978 1 905246 04 5 OCLC 62864892 Chae Keum Seok January 2005 A Study on the Development of Jeogori s Structure and Changes of its Form Focused on the Era of the Three Kingdoms to United Shilla Era via ResearchGate Costumes d enfants miroir des grands Etablissement public du musee des arts asiatiques Guimet 20 octobre 2010 24 janvier 2011 Aurelie Samuel Musee Guimet Paris Reunion des musees nationaux 2010 p 68 ISBN 978 2 7118 5759 3 OCLC 700141350 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint others link Lee Han sang 2014 신라 복식의 변천과 그 배경 Transformations of Costume in Silla through Time and Their Background The Journal of the Research Institute for Silla Culture 43 137 171 Lee Gyungja 저고리 Jeogori Encyclopedia of Korean Culture in Korean Archived from the original on 29 April 2021 a b Jacket Victoria and Albert Museum Retrieved May 9 2019 Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion Ed Valerie Steele Vol 1 Detroit MI Charles Scribner s Sons 2005 p82 85 Web Lee Ho jeong 2007 05 07 Clothing with stories of fertility and faith JoonAng Daily External links Edit Wikimedia Commons has media related to Jeogori Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Jeogori amp oldid 1106820572, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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