Uli Biaho (Balti: ཨུལི་བིཧོ།; Urdu: اولی بیاہو) is a mountain within the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan, near Trango Towers and Baltoro Glacier It consists of two main peaks: Uli Biaho Tower (measuring approximately 19,957 feet according to Roskelley and 6,109 meters or 20,043 feet according to Kopold), and Uli Biaho Peak (with a height of 6,417 meters as per Kopold's measurements). As of 2006, Uli Biaho Peak remained unclimbed.[2]
Uli Biaho Tower was ascended in an alpine-style approach via the direct East Face route by a team led by John Roskelley and others. On July 3, 1979, all four climbers from the United States successfully reached the summit. John Roskelley later dedicated a chapter to their Uli Biaho climb in his 1993 book titled "Stories Off the Wall."[3]
Notable ascentsedit
In 1979, the East Face of Uli Biaho Tower (measuring 19,957 feet) was climbed via a challenging route rated at VII F8 A4, comprising 34 pitches. The ascent took place from June 24 to July 5, 1979, and the team consisted of John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Ron Kauk, and Bill Forrest.[4]
In 1988, another ascent of Uli Biaho Tower was achieved via the Pilone Sud route, which involved climbing with a rating of 6b and A3, covering a distance of 800 meters. This ascent occurred from June 19 to 21 in 1988. The team consisted of Maurizio Giordani, Roberto Manfrini, Maurizio Venzo, Kurt Walde.[5]
In 2006, climbers Gabo Cmarik and Jozef 'Dodo' Kopold from Slovakia ascended the Uli Biaho Tower (20,058 feet or 6109 m) via the Drastissima VI/6 ABO route on the Northwest Face from June 23 to 25.[6][7]
In 2013, Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera, and Sihan Schüpbach successfully tackled the Uli Biaho Tower's West Face (6a/6b) with one aid pitch and 18 pitches of free climbing. This feat was accomplished in one day and a half on July 21, 2013.[8]
In the same year, climbers Denis Veretenin and Evgenii Bashkirtcev conquered the Uli Biaho Tower's East Face using the Russian Roulette route (1,900m 6c+ A2) from August 8 to 14, 2013.[9][10]
^. www.climbandmore.com. Archived from the original on 2008-05-21.
^MacDonald, Dougald (July 26, 2006). . Climbing Magazine Hot Flashes. Skram Media LLC. Archived from the original on October 11, 2008. Retrieved Sep 30, 2009.
biaho, balti, urdu, اولی, بیاہو, mountain, within, gilgit, baltistan, region, pakistan, near, trango, towers, baltoro, glacier, consists, main, peaks, tower, measuring, approximately, feet, according, roskelley, meters, feet, according, kopold, peak, with, hei. Uli Biaho Balti ཨ ལ བ ཧ Urdu اولی بیاہو is a mountain within the Gilgit Baltistan region of Pakistan near Trango Towers and Baltoro Glacier It consists of two main peaks Uli Biaho Tower measuring approximately 19 957 feet according to Roskelley and 6 109 meters or 20 043 feet according to Kopold and Uli Biaho Peak with a height of 6 417 meters as per Kopold s measurements As of 2006 Uli Biaho Peak remained unclimbed 2 Uli Biaho Peak ཨ ལ བ ཧ Uli Biaho TowerHighest pointElevationPeak 6 417 m 21 053 ft Tower 6 109 m 20 043 ft ListingList of mountains in PakistanCoordinates35 44 N 76 07 E 35 733 N 76 117 E 35 733 76 117 1 GeographyUli Biaho Peak ཨ ལ བ ཧ Location in PakistanShow map of Gilgit BaltistanUli Biaho Peak ཨ ལ བ ཧ Uli Biaho Peak ཨ ལ བ ཧ Pakistan Show map of PakistanLocationGilgit Baltistan PakistanParent rangeKarakoram Baltoro Glacier Uli Biaho Tower was ascended in an alpine style approach via the direct East Face route by a team led by John Roskelley and others On July 3 1979 all four climbers from the United States successfully reached the summit John Roskelley later dedicated a chapter to their Uli Biaho climb in his 1993 book titled Stories Off the Wall 3 Notable ascents editIn 1979 the East Face of Uli Biaho Tower measuring 19 957 feet was climbed via a challenging route rated at VII F8 A4 comprising 34 pitches The ascent took place from June 24 to July 5 1979 and the team consisted of John Roskelley Kim Schmitz Ron Kauk and Bill Forrest 4 In 1988 another ascent of Uli Biaho Tower was achieved via the Pilone Sud route which involved climbing with a rating of 6b and A3 covering a distance of 800 meters This ascent occurred from June 19 to 21 in 1988 The team consisted of Maurizio Giordani Roberto Manfrini Maurizio Venzo Kurt Walde 5 In 2006 climbers Gabo Cmarik and Jozef Dodo Kopold from Slovakia ascended the Uli Biaho Tower 20 058 feet or 6109 m via the Drastissima VI 6 ABO route on the Northwest Face from June 23 to 25 6 7 In 2013 Matteo Della Bordella Luca Schiera and Sihan Schupbach successfully tackled the Uli Biaho Tower s West Face 6a 6b with one aid pitch and 18 pitches of free climbing This feat was accomplished in one day and a half on July 21 2013 8 In the same year climbers Denis Veretenin and Evgenii Bashkirtcev conquered the Uli Biaho Tower s East Face using the Russian Roulette route 1 900m 6c A2 from August 8 to 14 2013 9 10 See also editHighest Mountains of the WorldReferences edit Uli Biaho Peak Peakbagger com Retrieved 2013 07 27 Kopold Dodo Nov 27 2006 Uli Biaho Tower Alpinist Magazine Climbing Notes Height of Land Publications Retrieved 2009 09 30 Roskelley John 1993 Stories Off the Wall Seattle Washington Mountaineers Books ISBN 978 0 89886 609 4 AAJ 1980 op cit climbing Uli Biaho Tower www climbandmore com Archived from the original on 2008 05 21 MacDonald Dougald July 26 2006 Slovaks Climb Huge Ice Line on Uli Biaho Climbing Magazine Hot Flashes Skram Media LLC Archived from the original on October 11 2008 Retrieved Sep 30 2009 Kopold Alpinist Magazine 2006 op cit Uli Biaho Tower West Face 2013 Himalaya Masala August 1 2013 Retrieved August 10 2013 Karakorum Rajon Trango 2013 Chast IV Uli Byaho Stena Gory Mira Karakorum Mountain RU Otchyot o voshozhdenii komandy Federacii Alpinizma Irkutskoj oblasti na vershinu Uli Biaho 6109 m Gory Mira Karakorum Mountain RU nbsp This Gilgit Baltistan location article is a stub You can help Wikipedia by expanding it vte Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Uli Biaho amp oldid 1213828634, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
