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River Wharfe

The River Wharfe (/hwɔːrf/ WHORF) is a river in Yorkshire, England originating within the Yorkshire Dales National Park. For much of its middle course it is the county boundary between West Yorkshire and North Yorkshire. Its valley is known as Wharfedale.

River Wharfe
Linton Falls, on the upper Wharfe near Grassington
Location
CountryEngland
Physical characteristics
Source 
 • locationBeckermonds, Langstrothdale Chase
 • coordinates54°13′03″N 2°11′39″W / 54.217481°N 2.194231°W / 54.217481; -2.194231
 • elevation310 m (1,020 ft)
Mouth 
 • location
River Ouse at Wharfe's Mouth, near Cawood
 • coordinates
53°50′39″N 1°07′46″W / 53.8441°N 1.129544°W / 53.8441; -1.129544
 • elevation
4.9 m (16 ft)
Length65 mi (104.6 km)

The watercourse first becomes known as the River Wharfe at the confluence of Greenfield Beck and Oughtershaw Beck at Beckermonds. Flowing initially through Langstrothdale, it then passes by, or in some cases through, Kettlewell, Grassington, Bolton Abbey, Addingham, Ilkley, Burley-in-Wharfedale, Otley, Wetherby and Tadcaster. It then flows into the River Ouse near Cawood. The section of the river from its source to around Addingham is in Upper Wharfedale and has a very different character to the river downstream.

The Wharfe is 65 miles (104.6 km) long (before it joins the Ouse), making it the 21st longest river in Britain.[1] It is a public navigation from the weir at Tadcaster to its junction with the Ouse near Cawood and is tidal from Ulleskelf to the Ouse.

Etymology Edit

The name Wharfe, at least in its present form, derives from the Old Norse hverfi meaning 'a bend, crook, turn', a name implying that the river was winding.[2][3][4] However, this Old Norse form was probably adapted from an earlier name: a Roman altar found in Ilkley is inscribed "VERBEIAE SACRUM" ('sacred to Verbeia') and is believed to refer to the River Wharfe (personified as a goddess). This much earlier attestation indicates that the Norse name was adapted (possibly via Old English) from a Brittonic name *werbeiā. What this Brittonic name meant is unclear. Conventional wisdom associates it with a proto-Indo-European root *wer-, again relating to turning or twisting and suggesting a winding river. But twenty-first-century scholarship has argued that this proposal cannot explain the -b- of Verbeia. Recent suggestions include Patrick Sims-Williams's association of the name with Old Irish ferb ('cattle') and Andrew Breeze's case for a meaning 'powerful striker'. Thus there is no clear consensus on the earliest meanings of the name.[3][4][5]

Course Edit

 
The River Wharfe meandering between Starbotton and Kettlewell.
 
The rapids of The Strid
 
Stepping stones and footbridge in Bolton Abbey
 
The River Wharfe at Wetherby, the largest settlement on the course of the Wharfe

The river is deemed to start at the confluence of Oughtershaw Beck and Green Field Beck in Langstrothdale near Beckermonds. It flows east and south-east taking the flows from several small streams originating on Yockenthwaite Moor on the north bank and Horse Head Moor on the south bank. After Hubberholme, the river flows south past Buckden and Starbotton and then south-east past Kettlewell before flowing south again. Near Conistone are the gentle waterfalls of Scar Lash. Near Grassington, the river turns south-east over Linton Falls. South of Appletreewick, the river flows south-west for a short distance until it reaches Gill Beck and returns southward. To the north of Bolton Bridge, the river narrows and goes over waterfalls in an area known as The Strid. The river winds south and south-east towards Ilkley where it heads east through Otley and Collingham. It briefly flows north to Wetherby before turning south and then south-east through Tadcaster to the confluence with the River Ouse.

The Strid Edit

The Strid (grid reference: SE 064565) is a series of waterfalls and rapids contained within a 15-foot (4.6 m) deep channel cut into the local sandstone. The River Wharfe narrows dramatically here from approximately 90 ft (27 m) wide, just to the north of the start of the Strid, to about 6.5 ft (2 m) less than 300 ft (91 m) later.[6][7][8] It is especially dangerous as both banks are undercut,[9][10] and it has been the scene of a number of fatalities, including those of a honeymooning couple in 1998.[11] The Strid walk is very popular and is accessed from the car park at Bolton Abbey.[12]

Its name comes from the Old English stryth, meaning 'turmoil'. This was later corrupted to Strid, referring to 'the possibility of striding across'.[13]

The Strid's hazardous nature is referenced in several literary works, including The Force of Prayer by William Wordsworth, and The Striding Place by Gertrude Atherton.

Linton Falls Edit

Linton Falls (grid reference: SE 001633) are located close to the village of Linton, just south of Grassington. There is a footbridge straddling the falls for viewing.

Water levels Edit

Monitoring station[14] Station elevation Low water level High water level Record high level
Kettlewell 212 m (696 ft) 0.17 m (0.56 ft) 2 m (6.6 ft) 2.54 m (8.3 ft)
Grassington 171 m (561 ft) 0 m (0 ft) 1.5 m (4.9 ft) 2.79 m (9.2 ft)
Ilkley 78 m (256 ft) 0.09 m (0.30 ft) 2.9 m (9.5 ft) 3.88 m (12.7 ft)
Otley 56 m (184 ft) 0.36 m (1.2 ft) 1.5 m (4.9 ft) 2.46 m (8.1 ft)
Pool Bridge 46 m (151 ft) 0.09 m (0.30 ft) 2.9 m (9.5 ft) 3.77 m (12.4 ft)
Arthington 46 m (151 ft) 0.32 m (1.0 ft) 3.3 m (11 ft) 4.14 m (13.6 ft)
Collingham 25 m (82 ft) 0.35 m (1.1 ft) 1.59 m (5.2 ft) 4.7 m (15 ft)
Wetherby 25 m (82 ft) 0.4 m (1.3 ft) 1.8 m (5.9 ft) 3.10 m (10.2 ft)
Tadcaster 11 m (36 ft) 0.18 m (0.59 ft) 2.9 m (9.5 ft) 3.79 m (12.4 ft)
Cock Beck Sluices 6 m (20 ft) 3.44 m (11.3 ft) 7.3 m (24 ft) 9.26 m (30.4 ft)
Fleet Pumping Station 6 m (20 ft) 2 m (6.6 ft) 6.5 m (21 ft) 7.35 m (24.1 ft)
  • Low and high water levels are an average figure.

A serious flood in 1686 carried away a number of bridges and buildings.[15]

Natural history Edit

Fauna Edit

More than 230 species of bird have been observed along the river valley including red grouse, stonechat, whinchat, golden plover, pied flycatcher, redstart, wood warbler, common sandpiper, grey wagtail, dipper, tawny owl, sparrowhawk, greater spotted woodpecker, nuthatch, treecreeper and, in wetter places, common snipe and woodcock, chiffchaff, willow warbler, garden warbler, and twite.[16]

The Wharfe has populations of signal crayfish and the few white-clawed crayfish remaining are at great risk.[16] The river is also home to a colony of fine-lined pea mussels. The creature is mostly congregated in rivers in Wales and central and southern England; the presence of the mussels in the Wharfe has been noted as a "considerable outpost".[17]

There are populations of rabbit, red fox, grey squirrel, otter, water voles and deer.[16][18][19]

Flora Edit

Ferns found here include wall rue, maidenhair spleenwort, brittle bladder-fern, Hart's-tongue and hard shield-fern. In Upper Wharfedale the scars and screes support a range of plants including the alpine cinquefoil and hoary whitlowgrass. Also to be found are lesser meadow-rue, goldenrod, scabious and bloody crane's-bill with, to a lesser extent, mountain melick, limestone fern, wood crane's-bill and melancholy thistle, green spleenwort, wall lettuce and hairy stonecrop.[16]

Lower down the valley, species including alpine cinquefoil, lily-of-the-valley, mountain melick and herb paris, blue sesleria, common valerian and wild angelica. The limestone outcrops have uncommon species including rock whitebeam and Solomon's seal as well as bird's-eye primrose, butterwort, rockrose, dropwort and limestone bedstraw.

The limestone pavements of the area are a habitat for several species usually confined to woodlands, such as dog's mercury, wood anemone and ramsons. Rarer species to be found in the grikes include baneberry and downy currant. Ferns in the moist grikes include rigid buckler-fern. Also to be found are alternate-leaved golden saxifrage, reed canary-grass and stone bramble.

Some of the inaccessible cliffs are home to ledge dwelling flora including mosses and liverworts, such as red leskea, sharp rock-bristle and the very rare Zygodon gracilis. The ledges also support woodrush, polypody and water avens, purple saxifrage, yellow saxifrage, hoary whitlowgrass and roseroot.

Blue moor-grass can also be found, with sheep's-fescue and herbs such as thyme, salad burnet and common rock-rose. There is wild thyme, common milkwort, fairy flax, bird's-foot trefoil, autumn gentian, harebell, eyebright.

Species of tree and shrub include ash, downy birch, hazel, hawthorn, yew and rowan. In the woods shrubs such as wild privet and spindle can be found. More rare is dark red helleborine.[16][20]

Geology Edit

Upper Wharfedale is an area whose rocks date from the Early Carboniferous period and lies north-west of Burnsall. Its main features are the Great Scar Limestone which forms a base to the overlying Yoredale Beds, a 300-metre (980 ft) deep strata of hard limestones, sandstones and shale. These have been slightly tilted, toward the east. To the south-east of the area is the Millstone Grit laid down in the Late Carboniferous period, and covered by heather moorland, hard crags and tors.[21][22]

Weathering of the Yoredale Beds has produced a stepped profile to the valley sides, consisting of a shelf of limestone, sometimes grassy but often displaying such karst features as limestone pavement, gorges and sinkholes. During the last ice age, the local ice cap at the head of the Dales fed glaciers to produce the classic U-shaped profiles seen today.[23]

Where the river valley changes course into Lower Wharfedale, the change of underlying rock can be seen in the darker stone in the field walls. The Millstone Grit outcrops at the Cow and Calf Rocks near Ilkley form a rolling dissected plateau. Due to the impermeable nature of the rock, blanket bogs and mires form, and drier areas have wet and dry heaths and acid grasslands.[24]

Coarse sandstones in the area are known as Addingham Edge and Bramhope Grits. The Otley Shell Beds become exposed at Otley Chevin. At Great Dib Wood the Otley Shell Bed is sandwiched between two Namurian sandstones.

Glacial lakes once filled Lower Wharfedale in which were deposited sand and gravel. These deposits were extracted and now form the basis of the Otley Wetland Reserve, and Ben Rhydding and Knotford Nook gravel pits.[25]

History Edit

The name Wharfe appears to be recorded in the form Verbeiae on a Roman inscription at Ilkley, dedicated to Verbeia, thought to be the tutelary goddess of the river. The name is probably of Brythonic origin, from a root meaning "winding". Later forms of the name were probably influenced by the Old Norse hwerfi, meaning "bend".[26]

Iron Age fields and hut circles can still be seen in outline on the hills above Grassington and Kettlewell.[22] The Romans built a road through Wharfedale that went over Stake Moss into neighbouring Wensleydale. The local British tribe of Brigantes were subdued by the Romans in AD 74. The Romans mined lead in the hills on Greenhow Hill overlooking Appletreewick until AD 410.[22] After AD 620 the Romano-Britons were joined by Angles and increased the amount of forest clearing to establish fields for crops and animals. These were overrun by Danes initially before they too settled to farming near Burnsall and Thorpe. Vikings then settled the area in the 10th century, lending their language to some of the names of hamlets and landscape features of Upper Wharfedale, especially near the head of the valley.[22] During Anglo-Saxon times, large estates were established and the River Wharfe and its valley came under the protection of Earl Edwin of Bolton-in-Craven. After the Norman invasion, the lands were given to Robert Romilly.[22]

In medieval times low intensity methods were used to produce both crops and livestock but the great monasteries of Fountains, Rievaulx and Bolton Priory had large sheep flocks and sold their wool on the European market. In 1155, Alice de Romilly donated land for the establishment of Bolton Priory and land at Kilnsey to Fountains Abbey. The monasteries helped develop vast sheep farms and the founding of drove roads, which can still be seen and walked today. The success of the monasteries was also responsible for the growth of the market towns of Grassington and Kettlewell.[22]

When the monasteries were dissolved in 1539, and wool prices fell, many tenant farmers took to cattle and sheep rearing. However, at the end of the 17th century there was still small-scale arable production. By the early 19th century there was a demand for food from the growing industrial towns and farmers and many farms began to produce milk from the lower lands and use the higher fells for sheep.[27]

On 5 July 2014, the Tour de France Stage 1 from Leeds to Harrogate passed through Wharfedale along roads running close to the river. The route in Wharfedale started near the official start at Harewood and ended just after Buckden when the competitors turned to climb over Kidstones Pass near Cray.[28]

The river has featured in films. In 1992, the town of Grassington was used as a filming location for Wuthering Heights.[29] The 2003 film, Calendar Girls, was filmed at several locations in the river valley including Ilkley Moor, Buckden, Burnsall, Kettlewell and Kilnsey.[30]

Economy Edit

 
Kettlewell Beck joining the River Wharfe

During the 1990s there had been an increase in second home ownership, particularly in the Upper Wharfedale area. The 1991 census had shown 13% of homes in the Craven district were classified as second properties.[31] The 2001 census showed that the figure for Upper Wharfedale was 15%,[32] but it had dropped to only 7% by 2011.[33]

Upper Wharfedale has been traditionally associated with farming, but there has been a change in the numbers and types of employment. Whilst there were declines in the number of people in this industry, farming accounted directly for 9.16%[34] of employment in 2001 but this had increased to 11.27% by 2011.[35]

Lead mining was once the main industry in Wharfedale. From the 17th century to the late 19th century it employed hundreds of men and boys, exploiting the veins in the limestone at Greenhow, Hebden, Grassington, Linton and Conistone, Appletreewick and elsewhere. The heaps of mining waste remain, contaminated with lead, and on which little will grow. The few plants that will are known as 'lead plants' such as spring sandwort and alpine penny-cress.[36][37]

Tourism is important to the rural economy of Wharfedale and there are many short, mid and long distance walks, with clear waymarkers. Other outdoor activities take place such as rock climbing, most notably at Kilnsey Crag, kayaking and canoeing. Other activities include cycling, mountain biking, horse riding and caving.[38] Several long distance walks pass near or over the river:[39]

  • Dales Way (follows the river valley from Beckermonds to Ilkley)
  • Lady Anne's Way (enters the valley near Hubberholme and leaves to the west of Bolton Abbey)
  • Inn Way to the Yorkshire Dales (part of walk from Grassington to Buckden)
  • The Way of the Roses (part of the cycle route from Appletreewick to Thorpe)

The Wharfe has two hydro-electric generating plants; Burley (at Greenholme Mill in Burley in Wharfedale), which opened in August 2011[40] and Linton Falls, which opened in March 2012.[41]

Lists Edit

All lists are ordered downstream from the source of the river:-[42]

Gallery Edit

References Edit

  1. ^ Owen, Sue; Pooley, Colin; Park, Chris; et al. (2005). "Appendix 2". Rivers and the British landscape. Lancaster: Carnegie House. p. 232. ISBN 978-1-85936-120-7.
  2. ^ Ekwall, Eilert (1960). The concise Oxford dictionary of English place-names (4 ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. p. 511. ISBN 0-19-869103-3.
  3. ^ a b James, Alan. (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 13 August 2017. Retrieved 30 July 2018.
  4. ^ a b The Cambridge Dictionary of English Place-Names, Based on the Collections of the English Place-Name Society, ed. by Victor Watts (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2004), s.v. River WHARFE. ISBN 9780521168557.
  5. ^ Andrew Charles Breeze, 'The River Wharfe and Verbeia, Celtic Goddess', Revue de Traduction et Langues, 17 (2018), 8-16.
  6. ^ "Google Map". Google Maps. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  7. ^ Jessop, Keith; Hanson, Neil (1998). Goldfinder. Simon & Schuser UK Ltd. pp. 35–36. ISBN 9780471045465. Retrieved 22 July 2021.
  8. ^ "The Strid". www.yorkshire-dales.com. Retrieved 22 July 2021.
  9. ^ Marsh, Terry (2005). The Dales Way: A Complete Guide to the Trail. Cicerone. p. 27. ISBN 1-85284-464-7.
  10. ^ Locke, Tim, ed. (2010). Slow North Yorkshire. Chalfont St. Peter: Bradt Travel Guides Ltd. p. 42. ISBN 978-1-84162-323-8.
  11. ^ "Honeymooners' death a mystery". BBC News. 19 November 1998. Retrieved 24 March 2013.
  12. ^ . walkingenglishman.com. Archived from the original on 9 July 2013. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  13. ^ "Bolton Abbey | Strid Wood". boltonabbey.com. Retrieved 17 July 2020.
  14. ^ "River levels". Environment Agency. 2010. Retrieved 23 December 2010.
  15. ^ Mitchell, W. R. (March 1980). "A song of the River Wharfe". The Dalesman. 41 (12): 976.
  16. ^ a b c d e . Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. 2013. Archived from the original on 4 February 2013. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  17. ^ "Further surveys to elucidate the distribution of the ... | EA Grey Literature". ea-lit.freshwaterlife.org. Retrieved 21 June 2019.
  18. ^ . Archived from the original on 18 June 2013. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  19. ^ . Archived from the original on 18 June 2013. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  20. ^ . Archived from the original on 18 June 2013. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  21. ^ (PDF). yorkshiredales.org.uk. Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. 2013. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 September 2012. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  22. ^ a b c d e f (PDF). yorkshiredales.org.uk. Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. 2013. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 September 2012. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  23. ^ (PDF). yorkshiredales.org.uk. Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. 2013. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 September 2012. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  24. ^ (PDF). yorkshiredales.org.uk. Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. 2013. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 September 2012. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  25. ^ . wharfequest.co.uk. Archived from the original on 18 June 2013. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  26. ^ Watts, Victor, ed. (2010). "Wharfe". The Cambridge Dictionary of English Place-Names. Cambridge University Press. ISBN 9780521168557.
  27. ^ . Archived from the original on 16 March 2013. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  28. ^ . Archived from the original on 25 July 2014. Retrieved 15 July 2014.
  29. ^ "Filming Locations". IMDb. Retrieved 26 August 2011.
  30. ^ "Filming Locations". IMDb. Retrieved 26 August 2011.
  31. ^ "Subsidies for absent home owners". Wharfedale Observer. Retrieved 21 June 2013.
  32. ^ "Housing Stock 2001 Census". Office for National Statistics. Retrieved 21 June 2013.
  33. ^ "Second Address 2011 Census". Office for National Statistics. Retrieved 21 June 2013.
  34. ^ "Industry of Employment 2001 Census". Office for National Statistics. Retrieved 21 June 2013.
  35. ^ "Industry 2001 Census". Office for National Statistics. Retrieved 21 June 2013.
  36. ^ "Lead mining". Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  37. ^ . Archived from the original on 18 June 2013. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  38. ^ . Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. 2013. Archived from the original on 10 March 2012. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  39. ^ . Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. 2013. Archived from the original on 14 March 2012. Retrieved 25 March 2013.
  40. ^ Wright, Greg (20 August 2011). "Green power scheme for homes". The Yorkshire Post. Retrieved 22 June 2019.
  41. ^ "Hydroelectric plant is restored". BBC News. 22 March 2012. Retrieved 22 June 2019.
  42. ^ "OpenData support | OS Tools & Support".

river, wharfe, ɔːr, whorf, river, yorkshire, england, originating, within, yorkshire, dales, national, park, much, middle, course, county, boundary, between, west, yorkshire, north, yorkshire, valley, known, wharfedale, linton, falls, upper, wharfe, near, gras. The River Wharfe hw ɔːr f WHORF is a river in Yorkshire England originating within the Yorkshire Dales National Park For much of its middle course it is the county boundary between West Yorkshire and North Yorkshire Its valley is known as Wharfedale River WharfeLinton Falls on the upper Wharfe near GrassingtonLocationCountryEnglandPhysical characteristicsSource locationBeckermonds Langstrothdale Chase coordinates54 13 03 N 2 11 39 W 54 217481 N 2 194231 W 54 217481 2 194231 elevation310 m 1 020 ft Mouth locationRiver Ouse at Wharfe s Mouth near Cawood coordinates53 50 39 N 1 07 46 W 53 8441 N 1 129544 W 53 8441 1 129544 elevation4 9 m 16 ft Length65 mi 104 6 km vteRiver WharfeLegendOughtershaw Beck Green Field BeckDeepdale BridgeDeepdale GillHagg GillBowther GillStrans GillHubbersholme BridgeKirk GillCow Close GillBuckden BridgeBuckden BeckStep GillCam Gill BeckFalcon Beard BeckHush GutterKettlewell Beck B6160 Kettlewell New BridgeBlack KeldRiver SkirfareHow BeckConistone BridgeWhite BeckDavy KeldScar Lash WaterfallDib BeckRobin Hood s Beck B6265 Grassington BridgeCaptain BeckLinton Falls HydroLinton Falls lower weir Tin Bridge footbridge Brow WellIsingdale BeckHowgill BeckSuspension Bridge footbridge Hebden BeckSandbed BeckBurnsall BridgeBarben BeckThe Old GutterMill IslandHall Wells DikeFoul SikeFir BeckBumby DikeGill BeckBarden BridgeFootbridge AqueductBarden BeckThe StridHollin BeckPosforth GillLudd Stream IslandsFootbridgeCowpert GillStead DikePickles BeckWaterfall Bridge footbridge Raven s Gill BeckBolton Bridge A59 BridgeKex BeckLathehouse BeckWine BeckFootbridgeFootbridgeWest Hall BeckFootbridgeDean BeckMill StreamHawksworth IslandFootbridgeNew Brook Street Bridge IlkeyFootbridgeBeanlands IslandDenton BridgeWest BeckBurley HydroMill Dam BeckBoot s Beck B6451 Bridge Street OtleyFootbridgeRiver WashburnThe Goit A658 Pool BridgeRailway Bridge York Harrogate Leeds Line Weeton BeckMill Race A61 Harewood BridgeStank BeckWoodhall Bridge footbridge Linton Bridge CollinghamCollingham BeckFootbridge A661 Wetherby A58 Wetherby A1 WetherbyThorp Arch Bridge Boston SpaWharfe Bridge dismantled railway Hay DikeViaduct Walk Tadcaster footbridge Limit of navigation A659 Tadcaster Bridge A64 BridgeCock BeckRailway Bridge York Leeds Sheffield Line FootbridgeOwl SikeEast Coast Main Line Railway BridgePailbank DrainThe FleetRiver OuseThe watercourse first becomes known as the River Wharfe at the confluence of Greenfield Beck and Oughtershaw Beck at Beckermonds Flowing initially through Langstrothdale it then passes by or in some cases through Kettlewell Grassington Bolton Abbey Addingham Ilkley Burley in Wharfedale Otley Wetherby and Tadcaster It then flows into the River Ouse near Cawood The section of the river from its source to around Addingham is in Upper Wharfedale and has a very different character to the river downstream The Wharfe is 65 miles 104 6 km long before it joins the Ouse making it the 21st longest river in Britain 1 It is a public navigation from the weir at Tadcaster to its junction with the Ouse near Cawood and is tidal from Ulleskelf to the Ouse Contents 1 Etymology 2 Course 2 1 The Strid 2 2 Linton Falls 2 3 Water levels 3 Natural history 3 1 Fauna 3 2 Flora 4 Geology 5 History 6 Economy 7 Lists 7 1 Tributaries 7 2 Settlements 7 3 Crossings 8 Gallery 9 ReferencesEtymology EditThe name Wharfe at least in its present form derives from the Old Norse hverfi meaning a bend crook turn a name implying that the river was winding 2 3 4 However this Old Norse form was probably adapted from an earlier name a Roman altar found in Ilkley is inscribed VERBEIAE SACRUM sacred to Verbeia and is believed to refer to the River Wharfe personified as a goddess This much earlier attestation indicates that the Norse name was adapted possibly via Old English from a Brittonic name werbeia What this Brittonic name meant is unclear Conventional wisdom associates it with a proto Indo European root wer again relating to turning or twisting and suggesting a winding river But twenty first century scholarship has argued that this proposal cannot explain the b of Verbeia Recent suggestions include Patrick Sims Williams s association of the name with Old Irish ferb cattle and Andrew Breeze s case for a meaning powerful striker Thus there is no clear consensus on the earliest meanings of the name 3 4 5 Course Edit nbsp The River Wharfe meandering between Starbotton and Kettlewell nbsp The rapids of The Strid nbsp Stepping stones and footbridge in Bolton Abbey nbsp The River Wharfe at Wetherby the largest settlement on the course of the WharfeThe river is deemed to start at the confluence of Oughtershaw Beck and Green Field Beck in Langstrothdale near Beckermonds It flows east and south east taking the flows from several small streams originating on Yockenthwaite Moor on the north bank and Horse Head Moor on the south bank After Hubberholme the river flows south past Buckden and Starbotton and then south east past Kettlewell before flowing south again Near Conistone are the gentle waterfalls of Scar Lash Near Grassington the river turns south east over Linton Falls South of Appletreewick the river flows south west for a short distance until it reaches Gill Beck and returns southward To the north of Bolton Bridge the river narrows and goes over waterfalls in an area known as The Strid The river winds south and south east towards Ilkley where it heads east through Otley and Collingham It briefly flows north to Wetherby before turning south and then south east through Tadcaster to the confluence with the River Ouse The Strid Edit The Strid grid reference SE 064565 is a series of waterfalls and rapids contained within a 15 foot 4 6 m deep channel cut into the local sandstone The River Wharfe narrows dramatically here from approximately 90 ft 27 m wide just to the north of the start of the Strid to about 6 5 ft 2 m less than 300 ft 91 m later 6 7 8 It is especially dangerous as both banks are undercut 9 10 and it has been the scene of a number of fatalities including those of a honeymooning couple in 1998 11 The Strid walk is very popular and is accessed from the car park at Bolton Abbey 12 Its name comes from the Old English stryth meaning turmoil This was later corrupted to Strid referring to the possibility of striding across 13 The Strid s hazardous nature is referenced in several literary works including The Force of Prayer by William Wordsworth and The Striding Place by Gertrude Atherton Linton Falls Edit Linton Falls grid reference SE 001633 are located close to the village of Linton just south of Grassington There is a footbridge straddling the falls for viewing Water levels Edit Monitoring station 14 Station elevation Low water level High water level Record high levelKettlewell 212 m 696 ft 0 17 m 0 56 ft 2 m 6 6 ft 2 54 m 8 3 ft Grassington 171 m 561 ft 0 m 0 ft 1 5 m 4 9 ft 2 79 m 9 2 ft Ilkley 78 m 256 ft 0 09 m 0 30 ft 2 9 m 9 5 ft 3 88 m 12 7 ft Otley 56 m 184 ft 0 36 m 1 2 ft 1 5 m 4 9 ft 2 46 m 8 1 ft Pool Bridge 46 m 151 ft 0 09 m 0 30 ft 2 9 m 9 5 ft 3 77 m 12 4 ft Arthington 46 m 151 ft 0 32 m 1 0 ft 3 3 m 11 ft 4 14 m 13 6 ft Collingham 25 m 82 ft 0 35 m 1 1 ft 1 59 m 5 2 ft 4 7 m 15 ft Wetherby 25 m 82 ft 0 4 m 1 3 ft 1 8 m 5 9 ft 3 10 m 10 2 ft Tadcaster 11 m 36 ft 0 18 m 0 59 ft 2 9 m 9 5 ft 3 79 m 12 4 ft Cock Beck Sluices 6 m 20 ft 3 44 m 11 3 ft 7 3 m 24 ft 9 26 m 30 4 ft Fleet Pumping Station 6 m 20 ft 2 m 6 6 ft 6 5 m 21 ft 7 35 m 24 1 ft Low and high water levels are an average figure A serious flood in 1686 carried away a number of bridges and buildings 15 Natural history EditFauna Edit More than 230 species of bird have been observed along the river valley including red grouse stonechat whinchat golden plover pied flycatcher redstart wood warbler common sandpiper grey wagtail dipper tawny owl sparrowhawk greater spotted woodpecker nuthatch treecreeper and in wetter places common snipe and woodcock chiffchaff willow warbler garden warbler and twite 16 The Wharfe has populations of signal crayfish and the few white clawed crayfish remaining are at great risk 16 The river is also home to a colony of fine lined pea mussels The creature is mostly congregated in rivers in Wales and central and southern England the presence of the mussels in the Wharfe has been noted as a considerable outpost 17 There are populations of rabbit red fox grey squirrel otter water voles and deer 16 18 19 Flora Edit Ferns found here include wall rue maidenhair spleenwort brittle bladder fern Hart s tongue and hard shield fern In Upper Wharfedale the scars and screes support a range of plants including the alpine cinquefoil and hoary whitlowgrass Also to be found are lesser meadow rue goldenrod scabious and bloody crane s bill with to a lesser extent mountain melick limestone fern wood crane s bill and melancholy thistle green spleenwort wall lettuce and hairy stonecrop 16 Lower down the valley species including alpine cinquefoil lily of the valley mountain melick and herb paris blue sesleria common valerian and wild angelica The limestone outcrops have uncommon species including rock whitebeam and Solomon s seal as well as bird s eye primrose butterwort rockrose dropwort and limestone bedstraw The limestone pavements of the area are a habitat for several species usually confined to woodlands such as dog s mercury wood anemone and ramsons Rarer species to be found in the grikes include baneberry and downy currant Ferns in the moist grikes include rigid buckler fern Also to be found are alternate leaved golden saxifrage reed canary grass and stone bramble Some of the inaccessible cliffs are home to ledge dwelling flora including mosses and liverworts such as red leskea sharp rock bristle and the very rare Zygodon gracilis The ledges also support woodrush polypody and water avens purple saxifrage yellow saxifrage hoary whitlowgrass and roseroot Blue moor grass can also be found with sheep s fescue and herbs such as thyme salad burnet and common rock rose There is wild thyme common milkwort fairy flax bird s foot trefoil autumn gentian harebell eyebright Species of tree and shrub include ash downy birch hazel hawthorn yew and rowan In the woods shrubs such as wild privet and spindle can be found More rare is dark red helleborine 16 20 Geology EditUpper Wharfedale is an area whose rocks date from the Early Carboniferous period and lies north west of Burnsall Its main features are the Great Scar Limestone which forms a base to the overlying Yoredale Beds a 300 metre 980 ft deep strata of hard limestones sandstones and shale These have been slightly tilted toward the east To the south east of the area is the Millstone Grit laid down in the Late Carboniferous period and covered by heather moorland hard crags and tors 21 22 Weathering of the Yoredale Beds has produced a stepped profile to the valley sides consisting of a shelf of limestone sometimes grassy but often displaying such karst features as limestone pavement gorges and sinkholes During the last ice age the local ice cap at the head of the Dales fed glaciers to produce the classic U shaped profiles seen today 23 Where the river valley changes course into Lower Wharfedale the change of underlying rock can be seen in the darker stone in the field walls The Millstone Grit outcrops at the Cow and Calf Rocks near Ilkley form a rolling dissected plateau Due to the impermeable nature of the rock blanket bogs and mires form and drier areas have wet and dry heaths and acid grasslands 24 Coarse sandstones in the area are known as Addingham Edge and Bramhope Grits The Otley Shell Beds become exposed at Otley Chevin At Great Dib Wood the Otley Shell Bed is sandwiched between two Namurian sandstones Glacial lakes once filled Lower Wharfedale in which were deposited sand and gravel These deposits were extracted and now form the basis of the Otley Wetland Reserve and Ben Rhydding and Knotford Nook gravel pits 25 History EditThe name Wharfe appears to be recorded in the form Verbeiae on a Roman inscription at Ilkley dedicated to Verbeia thought to be the tutelary goddess of the river The name is probably of Brythonic origin from a root meaning winding Later forms of the name were probably influenced by the Old Norse hwerfi meaning bend 26 Iron Age fields and hut circles can still be seen in outline on the hills above Grassington and Kettlewell 22 The Romans built a road through Wharfedale that went over Stake Moss into neighbouring Wensleydale The local British tribe of Brigantes were subdued by the Romans in AD 74 The Romans mined lead in the hills on Greenhow Hill overlooking Appletreewick until AD 410 22 After AD 620 the Romano Britons were joined by Angles and increased the amount of forest clearing to establish fields for crops and animals These were overrun by Danes initially before they too settled to farming near Burnsall and Thorpe Vikings then settled the area in the 10th century lending their language to some of the names of hamlets and landscape features of Upper Wharfedale especially near the head of the valley 22 During Anglo Saxon times large estates were established and the River Wharfe and its valley came under the protection of Earl Edwin of Bolton in Craven After the Norman invasion the lands were given to Robert Romilly 22 In medieval times low intensity methods were used to produce both crops and livestock but the great monasteries of Fountains Rievaulx and Bolton Priory had large sheep flocks and sold their wool on the European market In 1155 Alice de Romilly donated land for the establishment of Bolton Priory and land at Kilnsey to Fountains Abbey The monasteries helped develop vast sheep farms and the founding of drove roads which can still be seen and walked today The success of the monasteries was also responsible for the growth of the market towns of Grassington and Kettlewell 22 When the monasteries were dissolved in 1539 and wool prices fell many tenant farmers took to cattle and sheep rearing However at the end of the 17th century there was still small scale arable production By the early 19th century there was a demand for food from the growing industrial towns and farmers and many farms began to produce milk from the lower lands and use the higher fells for sheep 27 On 5 July 2014 the Tour de France Stage 1 from Leeds to Harrogate passed through Wharfedale along roads running close to the river The route in Wharfedale started near the official start at Harewood and ended just after Buckden when the competitors turned to climb over Kidstones Pass near Cray 28 The river has featured in films In 1992 the town of Grassington was used as a filming location for Wuthering Heights 29 The 2003 film Calendar Girls was filmed at several locations in the river valley including Ilkley Moor Buckden Burnsall Kettlewell and Kilnsey 30 Economy Edit nbsp Kettlewell Beck joining the River WharfeDuring the 1990s there had been an increase in second home ownership particularly in the Upper Wharfedale area The 1991 census had shown 13 of homes in the Craven district were classified as second properties 31 The 2001 census showed that the figure for Upper Wharfedale was 15 32 but it had dropped to only 7 by 2011 33 Upper Wharfedale has been traditionally associated with farming but there has been a change in the numbers and types of employment Whilst there were declines in the number of people in this industry farming accounted directly for 9 16 34 of employment in 2001 but this had increased to 11 27 by 2011 35 Lead mining was once the main industry in Wharfedale From the 17th century to the late 19th century it employed hundreds of men and boys exploiting the veins in the limestone at Greenhow Hebden Grassington Linton and Conistone Appletreewick and elsewhere The heaps of mining waste remain contaminated with lead and on which little will grow The few plants that will are known as lead plants such as spring sandwort and alpine penny cress 36 37 Tourism is important to the rural economy of Wharfedale and there are many short mid and long distance walks with clear waymarkers Other outdoor activities take place such as rock climbing most notably at Kilnsey Crag kayaking and canoeing Other activities include cycling mountain biking horse riding and caving 38 Several long distance walks pass near or over the river 39 Dales Way follows the river valley from Beckermonds to Ilkley Lady Anne s Way enters the valley near Hubberholme and leaves to the west of Bolton Abbey Inn Way to the Yorkshire Dales part of walk from Grassington to Buckden The Way of the Roses part of the cycle route from Appletreewick to Thorpe The Wharfe has two hydro electric generating plants Burley at Greenholme Mill in Burley in Wharfedale which opened in August 2011 40 and Linton Falls which opened in March 2012 41 Lists EditSee also List of crossings of the River Wharfe All lists are ordered downstream from the source of the river 42 Tributaries Edit Deepdale Gill Hagg Gill Bowther Gill Strans Gill Kirk Gill Cow Close Gill Buckden Beck Step Gill Cam Gill Beck Falcon Beard Beck Hush Gutter Kettlewell Beck Black Keld River Skirfare How Beck White Beck Davy Keld Dib Beck Robin Hood s Beck Captain Beck Brow Well Isingdale Beck Howling Beck Hebden Beck Sandbed Beck Barden Beck The Old Gutter Hall Wells Dike Foul Sike Fir Beck Bumby Dike Gill Beck Hollin Beck Posforth Gill Cowpert Gill Stead Dike Pickles Beck Raven s Gill Beck Kex Beck Lathehouse Beck Wine Beck West Hall Beck Dean Beck Mill Stream West Beck Mill Dam Beck Boot s Beck River Washburn Weeton Beck Stank Beck Collingham Beck Hay Dike Cock Beck Owl Sike Pailbank Drain The Fleet Settlements Edit Beckermonds Deepdale Yockenthwaite Hubberholme Buckden Starbotton Kettlewell Kilnsey Conistone Threshfield Grassington Linton Hebden Burnsall Hartlington Appletreewick Bolton Abbey Beamsley Addingham Nesfield Ilkley Burley in Wharfedale Otley Pool Castley Netherby Chapel Hill Collingham Linton Wetherby Boston Spa Thorp Arch Newton Kyme Tadcaster Kirkby Wharfe Ulleskelf Ozendyke Ryther Crossings Edit New House Farm footbridge Deepdale Bridge Yockenthwaite Bridge Hubberholme Bridge Buckden Bridge Starbotton footbridge B6160 Kettlewell New Bridge Conistone Bridge B6265 Grassington Bridge Tin Bridge footbridge Linton Falls Linton stepping stones Suspension Bridge footbridge HebdenHebden stepping stones Burnsall Bridge Drebley stepping stones Barden Bridge Barden Aqueduct and footbridge Wooden Bridge at Cavendish Pavilion Friars Steps stepping stones Waterfall Bridge footbridge Bolton Bridge A59 Bridge Suspension Bridge footbridge Addingham Old Bridge Ilkley footbridge New Bridge Ilkley New Brook Street Ilkley Suspension Bridge footbridge Ilkey Denton Road stepping stones Denton Bridge Greenholme stepping stones B6451 Otley Bridge The White Bridge footbridge A658 Pool Bridge Arthington Viaduct Leeds Harrogate railway line A61 Harewood Bridge Woodhall Bridge footbridge Linton Bridge between Collingham and Linton The Ings Footbridge A661 Wetherby Bridge A58 bridge Wetherby A1 M bridge Wetherby Thorp Arch Bridge Boston Spa Wharfe Bridge Newton Kyme Viaduct railway disused Tadcaster Viaduct railway disused A659 Tadcaster Bridge bridge reopened 3 February 2017 A64 bridge Tadcaster By pass Railway Bridge Dearne Valley Line East Coast Main Line Railway BridgeGallery EditAlong the River Wharfe nbsp Oughtershaw Beck and Green Field Beck in Langstrothdale near Beckermonds become the River Wharfe54 13 0 6 N 2 11 39 34 W 54 216833 N 2 1942611 W 54 216833 2 1942611 nbsp River Wharfe in Langstrothdale54 12 33 62 N 2 9 22 87 W 54 2093389 N 2 1563528 W 54 2093389 2 1563528 nbsp River Wharfe Langstrothdale east from the Dales Way Long Distance Walk54 12 59 34 N 2 11 13 38 W 54 2164833 N 2 1870500 W 54 2164833 2 1870500 nbsp River Wharfe below Grassington Bridge54 4 6 01 N 2 0 16 38 W 54 0683361 N 2 0045500 W 54 0683361 2 0045500 nbsp Linton Falls near Grassington nbsp River Wharfe Upstream of Hebden suspension bridge nbsp River Wharfe at Loup Scar Gorge54 3 3 21 N 1 57 5 02 W 54 0508917 N 1 9513944 W 54 0508917 1 9513944 nbsp Barden Bridge River Wharfe54 0 45 32 N 1 55 19 15 W 54 0125889 N 1 9219861 W 54 0125889 1 9219861 nbsp The Strid near Bolton Abbey54 0 15 18 N 1 54 13 3 W 54 0042167 N 1 903694 W 54 0042167 1 903694 nbsp Bolton Abbey and the River Wharfe53 59 0 39 N 1 53 12 53 W 53 9834417 N 1 8868139 W 53 9834417 1 8868139 nbsp River Wharfe Ilkley from footbridge53 55 56 94 N 1 48 56 43 W 53 9324833 N 1 8156750 W 53 9324833 1 8156750 nbsp River Wharfe at Otley nbsp Bridge over River Wharfe at Otley nbsp River Wharfe east of Otley looking upstream53 54 38 72 N 1 40 37 97 W 53 9107556 N 1 6772139 W 53 9107556 1 6772139 nbsp River Wharfe east from Harewood Bridge53 54 49 31 N 1 31 18 97 W 53 9136972 N 1 5219361 W 53 9136972 1 5219361 nbsp River Wharfe at Pool in Wharfedale east from A658 bridge nbsp River Wharfe from Linton Bridge53 54 47 53 N 1 24 38 92 W 53 9132028 N 1 4108111 W 53 9132028 1 4108111 nbsp River Wharfe Wetherby53 55 35 68 N 1 23 21 48 W 53 9265778 N 1 3893000 W 53 9265778 1 3893000 nbsp River Wharfe at Tadcaster with St Mary the Virgin Church in background53 53 4 24 N 1 15 38 16 W 53 8845111 N 1 2606000 W 53 8845111 1 2606000 nbsp Wharfe s Mouth south of Cawood53 50 38 73 N 1 7 50 17 W 53 8440917 N 1 1306028 W 53 8440917 1 1306028 Map all coordinates using OpenStreetMapDownload coordinates as KML GPX all coordinates GPX primary coordinates GPX secondary coordinates References Edit Owen Sue Pooley Colin Park Chris et al 2005 Appendix 2 Rivers and the British landscape Lancaster Carnegie House p 232 ISBN 978 1 85936 120 7 Ekwall Eilert 1960 The concise Oxford dictionary of English place names 4 ed Oxford Oxford University Press p 511 ISBN 0 19 869103 3 a b James Alan Brittonic Language In The Old North A Guide To The Place Name Evidence PDF Archived from the original PDF on 13 August 2017 Retrieved 30 July 2018 a b The Cambridge Dictionary of English Place Names Based on the Collections of the English Place Name Society ed by Victor Watts Cambridge Cambridge University Press 2004 s v River WHARFE ISBN 9780521168557 Andrew Charles Breeze The River Wharfe and Verbeia Celtic Goddess Revue de Traduction et Langues 17 2018 8 16 Google Map Google Maps Retrieved 25 March 2013 Jessop Keith Hanson Neil 1998 Goldfinder Simon amp Schuser UK Ltd pp 35 36 ISBN 9780471045465 Retrieved 22 July 2021 The Strid www yorkshire dales com Retrieved 22 July 2021 Marsh Terry 2005 The Dales Way A Complete Guide to the Trail Cicerone p 27 ISBN 1 85284 464 7 Locke Tim ed 2010 Slow North Yorkshire Chalfont St Peter Bradt Travel Guides Ltd p 42 ISBN 978 1 84162 323 8 Honeymooners death a mystery BBC News 19 November 1998 Retrieved 24 March 2013 Waterfalls walkingenglishman com Archived from the original on 9 July 2013 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Bolton Abbey Strid Wood boltonabbey com Retrieved 17 July 2020 River levels Environment Agency 2010 Retrieved 23 December 2010 Mitchell W R March 1980 A song of the River Wharfe The Dalesman 41 12 976 a b c d e Habitats Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority 2013 Archived from the original on 4 February 2013 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Further surveys to elucidate the distribution of the EA Grey Literature ea lit freshwaterlife org Retrieved 21 June 2019 Animals Archived from the original on 18 June 2013 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Animals Archived from the original on 18 June 2013 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Plants Archived from the original on 18 June 2013 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Langstrothdale Landscape Character Assessment PDF yorkshiredales org uk Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority 2013 Archived from the original PDF on 5 September 2012 Retrieved 25 March 2013 a b c d e f Upper Wharfedale amp Littondale Landscape Character Assessment PDF yorkshiredales org uk Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority 2013 Archived from the original PDF on 5 September 2012 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Craven Fault PDF yorkshiredales org uk Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority 2013 Archived from the original PDF on 5 September 2012 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Mid Wharfedale Landscape Character Assessment PDF yorkshiredales org uk Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority 2013 Archived from the original PDF on 5 September 2012 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Geology wharfequest co uk Archived from the original on 18 June 2013 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Watts Victor ed 2010 Wharfe The Cambridge Dictionary of English Place Names Cambridge University Press ISBN 9780521168557 Area history Archived from the original on 16 March 2013 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Tour de France Stage 1 Archived from the original on 25 July 2014 Retrieved 15 July 2014 Filming Locations IMDb Retrieved 26 August 2011 Filming Locations IMDb Retrieved 26 August 2011 Subsidies for absent home owners Wharfedale Observer Retrieved 21 June 2013 Housing Stock 2001 Census Office for National Statistics Retrieved 21 June 2013 Second Address 2011 Census Office for National Statistics Retrieved 21 June 2013 Industry of Employment 2001 Census Office for National Statistics Retrieved 21 June 2013 Industry 2001 Census Office for National Statistics Retrieved 21 June 2013 Lead mining Retrieved 25 March 2013 Mining Archived from the original on 18 June 2013 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Leisure activities Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority 2013 Archived from the original on 10 March 2012 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Long Distance Walks Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority 2013 Archived from the original on 14 March 2012 Retrieved 25 March 2013 Wright Greg 20 August 2011 Green power scheme for homes The Yorkshire Post Retrieved 22 June 2019 Hydroelectric plant is restored BBC News 22 March 2012 Retrieved 22 June 2019 OpenData support OS Tools amp Support Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title River Wharfe amp oldid 1175055146 The Strid, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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