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Qal'at Ja'bar

Qal'at Ja'bar (Arabic: قلعة جعبر, Turkish: Caber Kalesi) is a castle on the left bank of Lake Assad in Raqqa Governorate, Syria. Its site, formerly a prominent hill-top overlooking the Euphrates Valley, is now an island in Lake Assad that can only be reached by an artificial causeway. Although the hilltop on which the castle sits was possibly already fortified in the 7th century, the current structures are primarily the work of Nur ad-Din, who rebuilt the castle from 1168 onwards. Since 1965, several excavations have been carried out in and around the castle, as well as restoration works of the walls and towers. The castle was a Turkish exclave between 1921 and 1973.

Qal'at Ja'bar
قلعة جعبر
Caber Kalesi
Qal'at Dawsar (ancient name)
Raqqa Governorate, Syria
Qal'at Ja'bar from the north, surrounded by the waters of Lake Assad
One of the bastions of Qal'at Ja'bar
Qal'at Ja'bar
Coordinates35°53′51″N 38°28′51″E / 35.8975°N 38.480833°E / 35.8975; 38.480833
TypeCastle
Site information
Open to
the public
Yes
ConditionPartially restored ruin
Site history
Built1168 (1168)
Built byNur ad-Din Zangi
MaterialsStone and brick

History edit

Before the castle edit

It is not exactly known when the hilltop of Qal'at Ja'bar was first fortified. The site was already known as "Dawsar" in pre-Islamic times and was located along a route connecting Raqqa with the west.[1][2]

11th century and later edit

Qal'at Dawsar was mentioned in 1040/41 when the Fatimid governor of Syria Anushtakin al-Dizbari was on a campaign in the area. At an unspecified point afterward it came into the possession of a certain Ja'bar ibn Sabiq, a member of the tribe of Banu Numayr or Banu Qushayr. He was killed there in 1071/72. It developed a reputation for being a haven for Bedouin highwaymen from the two tribes.[3] In 1086 it was conquered by the Seljuks under Malik-Shah I, who granted it to the Uqaylid commander of the Citadel of Aleppo, Salim ibn Malik ibn Badran, as compensation for his surrender of Aleppo. The castle may have been built by the Numayr, but more likely its construction occurred under Salim.[4]

Salim's descendants held the castle almost continuously until the late 12th century, except for a brief occupation by Crusaders in 1102. In 1146, Zengi besieged the castle, but he was murdered there by one of his own slaves. In 1168, Qal'at Ja'bar passed into the hands of Zengi's son Nur ad-Din, who undertook major construction works at the castle. Most of what can be seen today dates to this period. The castle was heavily damaged during the Mongol invasions of Syria. Restoration works were carried out in the 14th century.[1][5][6]

Tomb of Suleyman Shah edit

Suleyman Shah, the grandfather of Osman I (progenitor of the Ottoman Empire), reputedly drowned in the Euphrates near Qal'at Ja'bar, and was buried near the castle. However, it is probable that this story resulted from a confusion between Suleyman Shah, and Sulayman bin Kutalmish, the founder of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rûm. It is however not certain whether the actual tomb, known as Mezār-i Türk, related to either of these two rulers.[1] The Ottoman sultan Hamid II had the tomb reconstructed. By article 9 of the Treaty of Ankara of 1921, the area was accepted as Turkish territory and Turkish soldiers were allowed to guard the tomb after Syria's establishment as a French mandate and eventual independence.[7] In 1973, in response to the rising water level of the newly created Lake Assad, the reputed tomb of Suleyman Shah and the associated exclave were moved to a new location north of Qal'at Ja'bar and the castle itself became Syrian territory.[6]

Syrian Civil War edit

 
SDF fighters examine Qal'at Ja'bar following their capture of the castle in January 2017. ISIL had built tunnels and weapons depots into the castle grounds.[8]

During the Syrian Civil War, Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant captured the castle in its 2014 offensive in Syria.[9] The castle grounds were suspected to have been subsequently repurposed by ISIL as a training ground, with tunnels and weapons depots built into the site.[10] Syrian Democratic Forces captured the site on 6 January 2017 as part of its Raqqa offensive, seizing it after killing 22 ISIL fighters.[11][12]

Architecture edit

Qal'at Ja'bar measures 370 by 170 metres (1,210 ft × 560 ft). The castle consists of a stone-built wall with 35 bastions around a rock core, and is partially surrounded by a dry moat.[13] The layout of the castle is very reminiscent of the much better preserved citadel of Aleppo. The upper parts of the castle are built from baked bricks. The entrance to the inner parts of the castle consists of a gatehouse and a winding ramp cut out of the rock. Inside the castle are the remains of a vaulted hall, as well as minaret that was probably built by Nur ad-Din, and that is the highest part of the castle. The brickwork that is currently visible is mainly the result of extensive restoration works by the Syrian Directorate-General of Antiquities and Museums (DGAM).[6][14][15]

Restoration and excavation edit

 
View of the castle in 1939, before construction of the Tabqa Dam and flooding of the surrounding land.

In 1968, construction of the Tabqa Dam commenced, as a result of which the area upstream would eventually be flooded by the dam's reservoir. In anticipation of the filling of the reservoir, excavations and restoration works were carried out at numerous sites in the region, including Qal'at Ja'bar. Although the location of Qal'at Ja'bar on a prominent hilltop ensured that it would not be flooded, the eventual lake level would turn the castle into an island. It was therefore surrounded by a protective glacis, and it was connected to the mainland by a causeway. These works were carried out between 1965 and 1974 by the Architectural Service of the DGAM, the Directorate General of the Dam and UNESCO at a cost of LS 4 million .[13][16] The restoration focused primarily on the eastern walls and towers. In addition, parts of the western ramparts were restored, as well as the donjon Alia, which was intended to house a museum for the finds of the excavations at the castle. To facilitate the restoration, a small brickworks was established at the castle.[13] Finds from the castle are now on display in the National Museum of Aleppo and Raqqa Museum.[16][17]

See also edit

References edit

  1. ^ a b c Sourdel, D. (2010). "ḎJabar or Ḳalat ḎJabar". In Bearman, P.; Bianquis, Th.; Bosworth, C.E.; van Donzel, E.; Heinrichs, W.P. (eds.). Encyclopaedia of Islam, Second Edition. Leiden: Brill Online. OCLC 624382576.
  2. ^ Musil, A. (1927). The Middle Euphrates. A topographical itinerary. Oriental Explorations and Studies. Vol. 3. New York: American Geographical Society. pp. 94–95. OCLC 1458654.
  3. ^ Heidemann 2006, p. 132, note 37.
  4. ^ Heidemann, Stefan (2006). "The Citadel of Raqqa and Fortifications in the Middle Euphrates Area". In Kennedy, Hugh (ed.). Muslim Military Architecture in Greater Syria: From the Coming of Islam to the Ottoman Period. Leiden: Brill. p. 132. ISBN 90-04-14713-6.
  5. ^ Heidemann, S. (2010). "Zangī, Abu 'l-Muzaffar 'Imād al-Dīn b. Ḳasīm al- Dawla Aḳsunḳur b. Il - Turghān". In Bearman, P.; Bianquis, Th.; Bosworth, C.E.; van Donzel, E.; Heinrichs, W.P. (eds.). Encyclopaedia of Islam, Second Edition. Leiden: Brill Online. OCLC 624382576.
  6. ^ a b c Burns, R. (1999). Monuments of Syria. An historical guide. London: I.B. Tauris. pp. 180–181. ISBN 1-86064-244-6.
  7. ^ "Franco-Turkish agreement of Ankara" (PDF) (in French). Retrieved 19 September 2009.
  8. ^ "US-backed Kurdish Forces Capture Historic Castle From IS Near Raqqa". Voice of America. 10 January 2017. Retrieved 23 January 2017.
  9. ^ . NRT. 6 January 2017. Archived from the original on 3 August 2017. Retrieved 7 January 2017.
  10. ^ "US-backed Kurdish Forces Capture Historic Castle From IS Near Raqqa". Voice of America. 10 January 2017. Retrieved 25 January 2017.
  11. ^ Sirwan Kajjo (6 January 2017). "US-backed Forces in Syria Target Strategic IS-held Dam". Voice of America. Retrieved 7 January 2017.
  12. ^ . Agnce France-Presse. Yahoo! News. 6 January 2017. Archived from the original on 14 December 2017. Retrieved 7 January 2017.
  13. ^ a b c Bahnassi, A. (1978). "Le sauvatage des vestiges de la zone de submersion du barrage de Tabqa sur l'Euphrate" (PDF). Monumentum (in French). 17. ICOMOS: 57–70. ISSN 0027-0776.
  14. ^ Hillenbrand, C. (1999). The Crusades: Islamic perspectives. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press. pp. 495–496. ISBN 1-57958-210-9.
  15. ^ Bell, G.L. (1924). Amurath to Amurath (2nd ed.). London: MacMillan. pp. 48–51. OCLC 481634750.
  16. ^ a b Bounni, Adnan; Lundquist, J. M. (1977). "Campaign and exhibition from the Euphrates in Syria". The Annual of the American Schools of Oriental Research. 44: 1–7. ISSN 0066-0035. JSTOR 3768538.
  17. ^ Zaqzuq, A.R. (1985). "Fouilles de la citadelle de Ja'bar". Syria (in French). 62 (1/2): 140–141. ISSN 0039-7946. JSTOR 4198474.

Further reading edit

  • Tonghini, Cristina (1998). Qal'at Ja'bar pottery: a study of a Syrian fortified site of the late 11th-14th centuries. British Academy Monographs in Archaeology. Vol. 11. Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN 0-19-727010-7.
  • Dussaud, René (1931). La Syrie antique et médiévale illustrée. Bibliothèque archéologique et historique. Vol. 17. Paris: P. Geuthner. OCLC 610530151.

External links edit

  •   Media related to Qal'at Ja'bar at Wikimedia Commons

35°53′49″N 38°28′52″E / 35.8969°N 38.48101°E / 35.8969; 38.48101

arabic, قلعة, جعبر, turkish, caber, kalesi, castle, left, bank, lake, assad, raqqa, governorate, syria, site, formerly, prominent, hill, overlooking, euphrates, valley, island, lake, assad, that, only, reached, artificial, causeway, although, hilltop, which, c. Qal at Ja bar Arabic قلعة جعبر Turkish Caber Kalesi is a castle on the left bank of Lake Assad in Raqqa Governorate Syria Its site formerly a prominent hill top overlooking the Euphrates Valley is now an island in Lake Assad that can only be reached by an artificial causeway Although the hilltop on which the castle sits was possibly already fortified in the 7th century the current structures are primarily the work of Nur ad Din who rebuilt the castle from 1168 onwards Since 1965 several excavations have been carried out in and around the castle as well as restoration works of the walls and towers The castle was a Turkish exclave between 1921 and 1973 Qal at Ja barقلعة جعبر Caber Kalesi Qal at Dawsar ancient name Raqqa Governorate SyriaQal at Ja bar from the north surrounded by the waters of Lake AssadOne of the bastions of Qal at Ja barQal at Ja barCoordinates35 53 51 N 38 28 51 E 35 8975 N 38 480833 E 35 8975 38 480833TypeCastleSite informationOpen tothe publicYesConditionPartially restored ruinSite historyBuilt1168 1168 Built byNur ad Din ZangiMaterialsStone and brick Contents 1 History 1 1 Before the castle 1 2 11th century and later 1 3 Tomb of Suleyman Shah 1 4 Syrian Civil War 2 Architecture 3 Restoration and excavation 4 See also 5 References 6 Further reading 7 External linksHistory editBefore the castle edit It is not exactly known when the hilltop of Qal at Ja bar was first fortified The site was already known as Dawsar in pre Islamic times and was located along a route connecting Raqqa with the west 1 2 11th century and later edit Qal at Dawsar was mentioned in 1040 41 when the Fatimid governor of Syria Anushtakin al Dizbari was on a campaign in the area At an unspecified point afterward it came into the possession of a certain Ja bar ibn Sabiq a member of the tribe of Banu Numayr or Banu Qushayr He was killed there in 1071 72 It developed a reputation for being a haven for Bedouin highwaymen from the two tribes 3 In 1086 it was conquered by the Seljuks under Malik Shah I who granted it to the Uqaylid commander of the Citadel of Aleppo Salim ibn Malik ibn Badran as compensation for his surrender of Aleppo The castle may have been built by the Numayr but more likely its construction occurred under Salim 4 Salim s descendants held the castle almost continuously until the late 12th century except for a brief occupation by Crusaders in 1102 In 1146 Zengi besieged the castle but he was murdered there by one of his own slaves In 1168 Qal at Ja bar passed into the hands of Zengi s son Nur ad Din who undertook major construction works at the castle Most of what can be seen today dates to this period The castle was heavily damaged during the Mongol invasions of Syria Restoration works were carried out in the 14th century 1 5 6 Tomb of Suleyman Shah edit Main article Tomb of Suleyman Shah Suleyman Shah the grandfather of Osman I progenitor of the Ottoman Empire reputedly drowned in the Euphrates near Qal at Ja bar and was buried near the castle However it is probable that this story resulted from a confusion between Suleyman Shah and Sulayman bin Kutalmish the founder of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum It is however not certain whether the actual tomb known as Mezar i Turk related to either of these two rulers 1 The Ottoman sultan Hamid II had the tomb reconstructed By article 9 of the Treaty of Ankara of 1921 the area was accepted as Turkish territory and Turkish soldiers were allowed to guard the tomb after Syria s establishment as a French mandate and eventual independence 7 In 1973 in response to the rising water level of the newly created Lake Assad the reputed tomb of Suleyman Shah and the associated exclave were moved to a new location north of Qal at Ja bar and the castle itself became Syrian territory 6 Syrian Civil War edit nbsp SDF fighters examine Qal at Ja bar following their capture of the castle in January 2017 ISIL had built tunnels and weapons depots into the castle grounds 8 During the Syrian Civil War Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant captured the castle in its 2014 offensive in Syria 9 The castle grounds were suspected to have been subsequently repurposed by ISIL as a training ground with tunnels and weapons depots built into the site 10 Syrian Democratic Forces captured the site on 6 January 2017 as part of its Raqqa offensive seizing it after killing 22 ISIL fighters 11 12 Architecture editQal at Ja bar measures 370 by 170 metres 1 210 ft 560 ft The castle consists of a stone built wall with 35 bastions around a rock core and is partially surrounded by a dry moat 13 The layout of the castle is very reminiscent of the much better preserved citadel of Aleppo The upper parts of the castle are built from baked bricks The entrance to the inner parts of the castle consists of a gatehouse and a winding ramp cut out of the rock Inside the castle are the remains of a vaulted hall as well as minaret that was probably built by Nur ad Din and that is the highest part of the castle The brickwork that is currently visible is mainly the result of extensive restoration works by the Syrian Directorate General of Antiquities and Museums DGAM 6 14 15 Restoration and excavation edit nbsp View of the castle in 1939 before construction of the Tabqa Dam and flooding of the surrounding land In 1968 construction of the Tabqa Dam commenced as a result of which the area upstream would eventually be flooded by the dam s reservoir In anticipation of the filling of the reservoir excavations and restoration works were carried out at numerous sites in the region including Qal at Ja bar Although the location of Qal at Ja bar on a prominent hilltop ensured that it would not be flooded the eventual lake level would turn the castle into an island It was therefore surrounded by a protective glacis and it was connected to the mainland by a causeway These works were carried out between 1965 and 1974 by the Architectural Service of the DGAM the Directorate General of the Dam and UNESCO at a cost of LS 4 million 13 16 The restoration focused primarily on the eastern walls and towers In addition parts of the western ramparts were restored as well as the donjon Alia which was intended to house a museum for the finds of the excavations at the castle To facilitate the restoration a small brickworks was established at the castle 13 Finds from the castle are now on display in the National Museum of Aleppo and Raqqa Museum 16 17 See also editList of islands of SyriaReferences edit a b c Sourdel D 2010 ḎJabar or Ḳalat ḎJabar In Bearman P Bianquis Th Bosworth C E van Donzel E Heinrichs W P eds Encyclopaedia of Islam Second Edition Leiden Brill Online OCLC 624382576 Musil A 1927 The Middle Euphrates A topographical itinerary Oriental Explorations and Studies Vol 3 New York American Geographical Society pp 94 95 OCLC 1458654 Heidemann 2006 p 132 note 37 Heidemann Stefan 2006 The Citadel of Raqqa and Fortifications in the Middle Euphrates Area In Kennedy Hugh ed Muslim Military Architecture in Greater Syria From the Coming of Islam to the Ottoman Period Leiden Brill p 132 ISBN 90 04 14713 6 Heidemann S 2010 Zangi Abu l Muzaffar Imad al Din b Ḳasim al Dawla Aḳsunḳur b Il Turghan In Bearman P Bianquis Th Bosworth C E van Donzel E Heinrichs W P eds Encyclopaedia of Islam Second Edition Leiden Brill Online OCLC 624382576 a b c Burns R 1999 Monuments of Syria An historical guide London I B Tauris pp 180 181 ISBN 1 86064 244 6 Franco Turkish agreement of Ankara PDF in French Retrieved 19 September 2009 US backed Kurdish Forces Capture Historic Castle From IS Near Raqqa Voice of America 10 January 2017 Retrieved 23 January 2017 SDF FIGHTERS LIBERATE HISTORIC 850 YEAR OLD CASTLE FROM ISIS NRT 6 January 2017 Archived from the original on 3 August 2017 Retrieved 7 January 2017 US backed Kurdish Forces Capture Historic Castle From IS Near Raqqa Voice of America 10 January 2017 Retrieved 25 January 2017 Sirwan Kajjo 6 January 2017 US backed Forces in Syria Target Strategic IS held Dam Voice of America Retrieved 7 January 2017 Kurdish Arab forces seize strategic Syria citadel from IS Agnce France Presse Yahoo News 6 January 2017 Archived from the original on 14 December 2017 Retrieved 7 January 2017 a b c Bahnassi A 1978 Le sauvatage des vestiges de la zone de submersion du barrage de Tabqa sur l Euphrate PDF Monumentum in French 17 ICOMOS 57 70 ISSN 0027 0776 Hillenbrand C 1999 The Crusades Islamic perspectives Edinburgh Edinburgh University Press pp 495 496 ISBN 1 57958 210 9 Bell G L 1924 Amurath to Amurath 2nd ed London MacMillan pp 48 51 OCLC 481634750 a b Bounni Adnan Lundquist J M 1977 Campaign and exhibition from the Euphrates in Syria The Annual of the American Schools of Oriental Research 44 1 7 ISSN 0066 0035 JSTOR 3768538 Zaqzuq A R 1985 Fouilles de la citadelle de Ja bar Syria in French 62 1 2 140 141 ISSN 0039 7946 JSTOR 4198474 Further reading editTonghini Cristina 1998 Qal at Ja bar pottery a study of a Syrian fortified site of the late 11th 14th centuries British Academy Monographs in Archaeology Vol 11 Oxford Oxford University Press ISBN 0 19 727010 7 Dussaud Rene 1931 La Syrie antique et medievale illustree Bibliotheque archeologique et historique Vol 17 Paris P Geuthner OCLC 610530151 External links edit nbsp Media related to Qal at Ja bar at Wikimedia Commons 35 53 49 N 38 28 52 E 35 8969 N 38 48101 E 35 8969 38 48101 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Qal 27at Ja 27bar amp oldid 1184737945, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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