Mulligatawny was popular in India by the end of the 18th century,[1] and by the 19th century it began to appear in cookbooks of the day, with each cook (or cookbook) featuring its own recipe.[3] Recipes for mulligatawny varied greatly at that time and over the years (e.g., Maria Rundell's A New System of Domestic Cookery contained three versions), and later versions of the soup included British modifications that included meat,[4] although the local Madras (modern Chennai) recipe on which it was based did not.[5] Early references to it in English go back to 1784.[6] In 1827, William Kitchiner wrote that it had become fashionable in Britain:
Mullaga-Tawny signifies pepper water. The progress of inexperienced peripatetic Palaticians[a] has lately been arrested by this outlandish word being pasted on the windows of our Coffee-Houses; it has, we believe, answered the "Restaurateurs'" purpose, and often excited John Bull, to walk in and taste—the more familiar name of Curry Soup—would, perhaps, not have had sufficient of the charms of novelty to seduce him from his much-loved Mock-Turtle. It is a fashionable Soup and a great favourite with our East Indian friends, and we give the best receipt[b] we could procure for it.[7][8]
Mulligatawny recipe from Charles Dickens's weekly magazine All The Year Round, 22 August 1868 (page 249)
By the mid-1800s, Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert (1840–1916), under the pen name Wyvern, wrote in his popular Culinary Jottings that "really well-made mulligatunny is ... a thing of the past."[5] He also noted that this simple recipe prepared by poorer natives of Madras as made by "Mootoosamy" was made by pounding:
a dessert-spoonful of tamarind, six red chillies, six cloves of garlic, a tea-spoonful of mustard seed, a salt-spoonful of fenugreek seed, twelve black peppercorns, a tea-spoonful of salt, and six leaves of karay-pauk. When worked to a paste, he adds a pint of water, and boils the mixture for a quarter of an hour. While this is going on, he cuts up two small onions, puts them into a chatty, and fries them in dessert-spoonful of ghee till they begin to turn brown, when he strains the pepper-water into the chatty, and cooks the mixture for five minutes, after which it is ready. The pepper-water is, of course, eaten with a large quantity of boiled rice, and is a meal in itself. The English, taking their ideas from this simple composition, added other condiments, with chicken, mutton, &c., thickened the liquid with flour and butter, and by degrees succeeded in concocting a soupe grasse of a decidedly acceptable kind.[5][9]
IngredientsEdit
According to the Oxford Companion to Food, the simplest version of the soup included chicken or mutton, fried onion, and spices.[2] More complex versions may call for "a score of ingredients". Versions originating in southern India commonly called for lentils.[2]
Popular cultureEdit
The dish features in the sketch Dinner for One which is broadcast every New Year's Eve in Scandinavia and Germany.[10]
In episode 6 from season 7 of the TV show Seinfeld, the character Elaine casually orders a “Mulligatawny” soup from the infamous Soup Nazi’s soup stand. However, after Elaine comments that the Soup Nazi looks like Al Pacino, he bans Elaine from the soup stand for one year and she does not get her soup.
Alfred mentions that Mulligatawny is Batman's favorite soup in Batman #701.[8]
^Leong-Salobir, Cecilia (2011). Food Culture in Colonial Asia: A Taste of Empire. Abingdon, Oxon, UK: Taylor & Francis. p. 17. ISBN978-0-415-60632-5.
^Dawe, W.H. (1888). The wife's help to Indian cookery : being a practical manual for housekeepers. London: Elliot Stock. p. 74.
^ abc"Wyvern" [Kenney-Herbert, Arthur Robert 1840–1916] (1885). Culinary Jottings. A treatise in thirty chapters on reformed cookery for Anglo-Indian rites, based upon modern English and continental principles with thirty menus (5 ed.). Madras: Higginbotham and Co. pp. 306–307.
^Yule, Henry (1902). Hobson Jobson (2 ed.). London: John Murray. p. 595.
^Kitchiner, William (1827). The Cook's Oracle; Containing Recipes for Plain Cookery on the Most Economical Plan for Private Families. Edinburgh: Cadell and Co. pp. 262–263.
^Roy, Modhumita (2010). "Some Like It Hot: Class, Gender and Empire in the Making of Mulligatawny Soup". Economic and Political Weekly. 45 (32): 66–75. JSTOR 20764390.
^Procida, Mary (2003). "Feeding the Imperial Appetite Imperial Knowledge and Anglo-Indian Domesticity". Journal of Women's History. 15 (2): 123–149. doi:10.1353/jowh.2003.0054. S2CID 143009780.
^Oltermann, Philip (30 December 2022). "European New Year's Eve TV staple Dinner for One to get prequel treatment". The Guardian. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
October 18, 2023
mulligatawny, confused, with, mulligan, stew, food, ɔː, soup, which, originated, from, south, indian, cuisine, name, originates, from, tamil, words, miḷagu, ளக, black, pepper, taṇṇi, தண, water, literally, pepper, water, related, dish, rasam, citation, needed, . Not to be confused with Mulligan stew food Mulligatawny ˌ m ʌ l ɪ ɡ e ˈ t ɔː n i is a soup which originated from South Indian cuisine The name originates from the Tamil words miḷagu ம ளக black pepper and taṇṇi தண ண water literally pepper water 1 It is related to the dish rasam citation needed MulligatawnyMulligatawny as served in MumbaiTypeOtherPlace of originTamil Nadu IndiaServing temperatureHot often with riceSimilar dishesRasam Media MulligatawnyMain ingredients commonly include chicken mutton and lentils 2 Contents 1 History 2 Ingredients 3 Popular culture 4 See also 5 Footnotes 6 ReferencesHistory EditMulligatawny was popular in India by the end of the 18th century 1 and by the 19th century it began to appear in cookbooks of the day with each cook or cookbook featuring its own recipe 3 Recipes for mulligatawny varied greatly at that time and over the years e g Maria Rundell s A New System of Domestic Cookery contained three versions and later versions of the soup included British modifications that included meat 4 although the local Madras modern Chennai recipe on which it was based did not 5 Early references to it in English go back to 1784 6 In 1827 William Kitchiner wrote that it had become fashionable in Britain Mullaga Tawny signifies pepper water The progress of inexperienced peripatetic Palaticians a has lately been arrested by this outlandish word being pasted on the windows of our Coffee Houses it has we believe answered the Restaurateurs purpose and often excited John Bull to walk in and taste the more familiar name of Curry Soup would perhaps not have had sufficient of the charms of novelty to seduce him from his much loved Mock Turtle It is a fashionable Soup and a great favourite with our East Indian friends and we give the best receipt b we could procure for it 7 8 nbsp Mulligatawny recipe from Charles Dickens s weekly magazine All The Year Round 22 August 1868 page 249 By the mid 1800s Arthur Robert Kenney Herbert 1840 1916 under the pen name Wyvern wrote in his popular Culinary Jottings that really well made mulligatunny is a thing of the past 5 He also noted that this simple recipe prepared by poorer natives of Madras as made by Mootoosamy was made by pounding a dessert spoonful of tamarind six red chillies six cloves of garlic a tea spoonful of mustard seed a salt spoonful of fenugreek seed twelve black peppercorns a tea spoonful of salt and six leaves of karay pauk When worked to a paste he adds a pint of water and boils the mixture for a quarter of an hour While this is going on he cuts up two small onions puts them into a chatty and fries them in dessert spoonful of ghee till they begin to turn brown when he strains the pepper water into the chatty and cooks the mixture for five minutes after which it is ready The pepper water is of course eaten with a large quantity of boiled rice and is a meal in itself The English taking their ideas from this simple composition added other condiments with chicken mutton amp c thickened the liquid with flour and butter and by degrees succeeded in concocting a soupe grasse of a decidedly acceptable kind 5 9 Ingredients EditAccording to the Oxford Companion to Food the simplest version of the soup included chicken or mutton fried onion and spices 2 More complex versions may call for a score of ingredients Versions originating in southern India commonly called for lentils 2 Popular culture EditThe dish features in the sketch Dinner for One which is broadcast every New Year s Eve in Scandinavia and Germany 10 In episode 6 from season 7 of the TV show Seinfeld the character Elaine casually orders a Mulligatawny soup from the infamous Soup Nazi s soup stand However after Elaine comments that the Soup Nazi looks like Al Pacino he bans Elaine from the soup stand for one year and she does not get her soup Alfred mentions that Mulligatawny is Batman s favorite soup in Batman 701 8 See also EditList of soupsFootnotes Edit Palatician may be a nonce word derived from palate in the sense of the ability to distinguish between and appreciate different flavours Receipt is an old form of recipe References Edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Mulligatawny a b Clarkson Janet 2010 Soup a global history London Reaktion p 118 ISBN 978 1 86189 774 9 OCLC 642290114 a b c Davidson Alan 2014 The Oxford companion to food Tom Jaine Soun Vannithone 3rd ed New York NY Oxford University Press pp 21 330 ISBN 978 0 19 967733 7 OCLC 890807357 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint date and year link Leong Salobir Cecilia 2011 Food Culture in Colonial Asia A Taste of Empire Abingdon Oxon UK Taylor amp Francis p 17 ISBN 978 0 415 60632 5 Dawe W H 1888 The wife s help to Indian cookery being a practical manual for housekeepers London Elliot Stock p 74 a b c Wyvern Kenney Herbert Arthur Robert 1840 1916 1885 Culinary Jottings A treatise in thirty chapters on reformed cookery for Anglo Indian rites based upon modern English and continental principles with thirty menus 5 ed Madras Higginbotham and Co pp 306 307 Yule Henry 1902 Hobson Jobson 2 ed London John Murray p 595 Kitchiner William 1827 The Cook s Oracle Containing Recipes for Plain Cookery on the Most Economical Plan for Private Families Edinburgh Cadell and Co pp 262 263 Roy Modhumita 2010 Some Like It Hot Class Gender and Empire in the Making of Mulligatawny Soup Economic and Political Weekly 45 32 66 75 JSTOR 20764390 Procida Mary 2003 Feeding the Imperial Appetite Imperial Knowledge and Anglo Indian Domesticity Journal of Women s History 15 2 123 149 doi 10 1353 jowh 2003 0054 S2CID 143009780 Oltermann Philip 30 December 2022 European New Year s Eve TV staple Dinner for One to get prequel treatment The Guardian Retrieved 30 December 2022 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Mulligatawny amp oldid 1179252635, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
