Moschino
Moschino (Italian pronunciation: [moˈskiːno]) is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino in Milan[2] known for over-the-top, campy designs.[3] The company specializes in ready-to-wear, handbags, and fashion accessories.[2] Moschino's creative director is Adrian Appiolaza.[4][5]
Moschino storefront in London | |
| Company type | Subsidiary |
|---|---|
| Industry | Fashion |
| Founded | 1983 in Milan, Italy |
| Founder | Franco Moschino |
| Headquarters |
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Number of locations | 150+ boutiques |
Area served | Worldwide |
Key people |
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| Products |
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| Brands |
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| Revenue | €215.4 million (2020)[1] |
| Parent | Aeffe S.p.A. |
| Website | moschino.com |
History edit
Founding and 1990s edit
Franco Moschino was born on 27 February 1950 and raised in Abbiategrasso, Italy.[6] Moschino studied at Accademia di Belle in Milan from 1968 to 1971, at the dismay of his father, who hoped Franco would continue his family's work in the iron industry. While a student, Franco freelanced designs and illustrations for magazines and fashion houses. Upon graduation, Franco worked as a design sketcher for Versace from 1971 to 1977 and designed for Italian fashion house Cadette until 1982.[7] The following year, Franco created "Moschino Couture!",[8] owned by Moonshadow, its Milan-based holding company.[6] Franco gained a reputation for implementing innovative, colorful, and witty designs into his apparel,[7] such incorporating a Roy Lichtenstein pop art piece in a suit[9] and designing a t-shirt featuring a TV tuned to “Channel No. 5" (sparking a lawsuit by Chanel due to the reference to its Chanel No. 5 perfume).[6]
By the late 1980s, Moschino's popularity in Europe had begun to replicate in the United States, with US sales accounting for 15 to 20 percent of business.[6] By the 1990s, Franco became known for his social awareness campaigns and his criticism of the fashion industry.[7] In 1994, Franco expressed desire to develop an ecological line “Nature Friendly Garment”,[6] however Franco died later that year from HIV/AIDS-related causes.[10] In recent times, Moschino has made an effort to combat the HIV/AIDS epidemic through a partnership with Product Red and Nickelodeon, creating a Moschino x SpongeBob collection, bringing awareness to HIV/AIDS and fundraising by donating the collection's proceeds to Project Red.[11]
Rossella Jardini, 1994–2013 edit
After Franco's death in 1994, his friend Rossella Jardini became the brand's creative director. Responsible for the brand's image and style, Jardini's whimsical designs fit in nicely with the brand's established eccentricity.[10] While Jardini was creative director, Moschino created outfits and accessories for artists Madonna[12] and Lady Gaga[13] for their world tours and created the opening ceremony outfits for the 2006 Winter Olympics.[14] In 2009, Moschino opened its hotel concept, Maison Moschino.[15]
In 1999, Moschino joined Aeffe S.p.A., an Italian group.[16]
With the F/W 2008–2009 pre-collection, Moschino Jeans changed its name to Love Moschino.[17]
Jeremy Scott, 2013–2023 edit
In October 2013, Jeremy Scott became Moschino's creative director, debuting his first collection in Fall 2014.[19] Starting in 2014 under Scott's direction, Moschino Cheap and Chic was consolidated into a new women's line—"Boutique Moschino"—established to target a wider array of costumers, with a price-point about 40 percent lower than Moschino's mainline.[20]
In 2014, Scott designed a smiley face themed outfit for Katy Perry's world tour[22] and in 2015 designed a black one-piece outfit with Swarovski crystals for Madonna's world tour.[21]
In April 2018, Moschino announced a collaboration with H&M.[23] The following year, Moschino collaborated with EA Games for a Sims 4 collection. The collection featured clothing with pixelated illusions inspired by the computer game.[24]
With the 2019 Met Gala's theme Camp: Notes on Fashion, Katy Perry wore a gown that looked like a chandelier, created by Moschino, and Kacey Musgraves arrived appearing like a life-size Barbie, also by Moschino.[25]
In 2021, Aeffe S.p.A. gained full control of Moschino, by acquiring the remaining 30 percent stake it did not originally own, at the price of 66.6 million euros ($78.51 million).[26][1]
In March 2023, Scott announced his exit from the creative director position.[27]
Davide Renne, 2023 edit
In October 2023, Aeffe announced Davide Renne as the new creative director of Moschino, overseeing the women's and men's lines and accessories. He joined Moschino after a 20-year career at Gucci.[28][29] He assumed the role on 1 November, but died from a suspected heart attack in Milan nine days later, at the age of 46.[28]
Adrian Appiolaza, 2024–present edit
In January 2024, Adrian Appiolaza was appointed as the new creative director of Moschino.[30] Prior to his appointment, Appiolaza worked at Loewe for 10 years as womenswear design director under Jonathan Anderson.[30] Appiolaza is a graduate of Central Saint Martins and has also worked at Chloé, Alexander McQueen, and Miu Miu.[31]
Controversy edit
In a 2015 lawsuit, New York-based graffiti artist Rime claimed the Moschino dress worn by Katy Perry at the 2015 Met Gala copied his work.[32] The case was settled in 2016.[33]
In 2016, Nordstrom responded to pressure from consumers and pulled Moschino's pill-themed merchandise from its shelves, amid allegations it trivialized the opioid epidemic.[34][35]
Philanthropy edit
For its fashion show in Milan in September 2023, Moschino showed its solidarity with the Elton John AIDS Foundation, founded by Elton John, which works to help and support people affected by HIV.[36]
References edit
- ^ a b Luisa Zargani (28 July 2021), Aeffe Takes Full Control of Moschino Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ a b Kaybeewrites (30 May 2022). "Fashion History: The history of Moschino". GLAMSQUAD MAGAZINE. Retrieved 18 August 2022.
- ^ McCall, Tyler (24 February 2022). "Jeremy Scott Brings the House Down at Moschino". Fashionista. Retrieved 25 August 2022.
- ^ "Moschino's new creative director is Adrian Appiolaza". The Spin Off. 30 January 2024.
- ^ "Milan fashion house Moschino taps Adrian Appiolaza as its new creative director". The Independent. 30 January 2024.
- ^ a b c d e Glynis Costin and Sara Gay Forden (20 September 1994), Franco Moschino Dies in Italy Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ a b c "Obituary: Franco Moschino". The Independent. 20 September 1994. Retrieved 19 August 2022.
- ^ "How to Create an Iconic brand – Volume 11: Moschino". The Blonde Salad. 4 September 2018. Retrieved 19 August 2022.
- ^ a b Talon, Kettj (2 May 2019). "Roy Lichtenstein: when Pop Art influences fashion". Nss Magazine. Retrieved 19 August 2022.
- ^ a b "A fashionable life: Rosella Jardini". Harper's Bazaar
- ^ Lockwood, Lisa (7 June 2017). "Nickelodeon, Moschino and (RED) Team Up for SpongeBob". WWD. Retrieved 19 August 2022.
- ^ Bernstein, Jacob (5 August 2008). "Madonna's Costumes for Her Sticky and Sweet Tour". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 4 October 2017.
- ^ Calvert, John (11 September 2012). "This Megalith Reality: Lady Gaga Live". The Quietus. Retrieved 18 August 2022.
- ^ "Moschino Gets Gold Medal:Brand designs costumes for winter Olympics," Thursday, 19 January 2006. Fashion Week Daily . Archived from the original on 6 May 2009. Retrieved 17 October 2007.
- ^ "Head to Milan for Maison Moschino", 31 October 2008. Harper's Bazaar. . Archived from the original on 5 May 2015. Retrieved 24 July 2009.
- ^ Suzy Menkes (26 October 1999), Aeffe Buys Moschino International Herald Tribune.
- ^ "LOVE MOSCHINO". British Vogue. 31 January 2008. Retrieved 13 October 2021.
- ^ "Moschino Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear Collection". Vogue. 20 February 2014. Retrieved 19 August 2022.
- ^ Zargani, Luisa (29 October 2013). "Moschino Names Jeremy Scott Creative Director". Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 29 October 2013.
- ^ "Moschino". MAM-E srls (in Italian). 14 November 2017. Retrieved 18 August 2022.
- ^ a b Branch, Kate (25 September 2015). "All the Amazing Details of Madonna's Amazing Designer Looks for Her Rebel Heart Tour". Glamour. Retrieved 27 August 2022.
- ^ Muller, Marissa (30 April 2014). "Katy Perry Adds Moschino To Prismatic World Tour Wardrobe". MTV. Retrieved 27 August 2022.
- ^ Lance, Jennifer. "Moschino Is H&M's Newest Designer Collaboration". Glamour. Retrieved 18 July 2018.
- ^ Masters, Johannah (12 April 2019). "Moschino taps 'The Sims' for Coachella's big fashion moment". New York Post. Retrieved 12 April 2019.
- ^ "Photos from Moschino's Most Memorable Met Gala Looks". E! Online. 13 September 2021. Retrieved 25 August 2022.
- ^ Silvia Recchimuzzi (28 July 2021), Italy's Aeffe raises stake in Moschino to 100% Reuters.
- ^ Zargani, Luisa (20 March 2023). "Jeremy Scott Is Exiting Moschino". WWD. Retrieved 20 March 2023.
- ^ a b Paton, Elizabeth (10 November 2023). "Davide Renne, Moschino Creative Director, Dead at 46". The New York Times. Retrieved 10 November 2023.
- ^ Elisa Anzolin (16 October 2023), Moschino names former Gucci designer Renne creative director Reuters.
- ^ a b "Adrian Appiolaza Is Named the New Creative Director of Moschino". Vogue. 30 January 2024. Retrieved 30 January 2024.
- ^ Zargani, Louisa. "Moschino's New Creative Director Is Former Loewe Designer Adrian Appiolaza". Womenswear Daily. Fairchild Media. Retrieved 30 January 2024.
- ^ David Shortell (10 August 2015), Fashion house Moschino accused of copying graffiti artist's work CNN.
- ^ Rosemary Feitelberg (29 June 2016), Street Artist Rime Settles Lawsuit With Jeremy Scott but Not Moschino Women's Wear Daily.
- ^ Phil Wahba (7 October 2016), Nordstrom Pulls Moschino Drug-Themed Clothing Line After Protests Fortune.
- ^ Kyle Munzenrieder (10 October 16), Nordstrom Pulls Moschino’s Pill-Themed Collection Amidst Controversy W.
- ^ "Un t-shirt Moschino pour soutenir la Fondation Elton John Aids". Journal du Luxe. Retrieved 21 September 2023.