fbpx
Wikipedia

Marko Prezelj

Marko Prezelj (born 13 October 1965) is a Slovenian mountaineer and photographer.

Marko Prezelj

Prezelj received four Piolet d'Or awards. He won the inaugural "Oscar of mountaineering" in 1992 with Andrej Štremfelj for their new route on the south ridge of Kangchenjunga South (8476) in alpine style.[1] The second he received in 2007 with Boris Lorenčič, for the first ascent of Chomolhari's northwest pillar in October 2006. Prezelj rejected his second award[2] because of his concern about the dangers of a competition.[3] In 2014 he received his third Piolet d'Or together with Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič for their first ascent of the north face of Hagshu in the Indian Himalaya.[4][5][6] In 2016 he won his fourth Piolet d'Or.

Prezelj has a degree in Chemical Engineering and is an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide and climbing instructor. He is married and has two sons.[7]

Ascents (selection) edit

  • 1987 Lhotse Shar Expedition (reached 7300 m)
  • 1988 New route on the north face of Cho Oyu
  • 1989 Shisha Pangma south face attempt; solo ascent of the Kang Ri (6240 m)
  • 1991 Kangchenjunga (8476 m) south ridge new route, first ascent of Boktoh (6142 m), second ascent of Talung (7349 m)
  • 1992 First ascent of Melungtse (7181 m)
  • 1993 El Capitan, fifth ascent of Wyoming Sheep Ranch
  • 1995 Torre Norte del Paine in Chile.
  • 1998 New route on Porong Ri East Summit (7284 m) and Yebokangal Ri (7332 m)
  • 1999 First ascent of the north wall of the Gyachung Kang (7952 m)
  • 2000 Second ascent of the "Golden Pillar" of Spantik
  • 2001 Begguya and Denali (6193 m)in Alaska - "Light Traveller" on the south face, new route, free climbed in a single push style, and Nilkanth west ridge (6596 m)
  • 2002 Nuptse south face attempt
  • 2004 North Twin North Face ascent with Steve House and Kapura Peak (6544m), new route and first ascent
  • 2005 Kayish new route
  • 2006 "The Long Run" on Cerro Torre and "Extreme Emotions" on Cerro Standhardt, free on sight ascent of "Cobra Oillar" on Mt. Barille (Alaska) andChomolhari (7326 m) northwest pillar
  • 2007 First ascent of K7 West in Karakoram
  • 2008 New route on W face of Kangchungtse (7678 m)
  • 2009 Baghirathi IV, III and II new routes
  • 2010 Bisotun Wall, Iran, new route
  • 2011 Makalu W face attempt (reached 7000 m) and integral ridge traverse of Chago peaks

References edit

  1. ^ . 25 April 2012. Archived from the original on 25 April 2012. Retrieved 7 October 2018.
  2. ^ "2007 PIOLET D'OR WINNER QUESTIONS AWARDS". Alpinist.com. Retrieved 6 October 2018.
  3. ^ The other side of the 2006 “Golden Ice Axe”: Montagnes talks about Prezelj and the Piolet 2007-05-14 at the Wayback Machine at climbing.com
  4. ^ . www.pioletsdor.com. Archived from the original on 2 April 2015. Retrieved 14 January 2022.
  5. ^ "Permit Fiasco Leads Two Teams to One Kishtwar Peak". Alpinist.com. Retrieved 6 October 2018.
  6. ^ "Slovenian First Ascent on Hagshu North Face". Ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 6 October 2018.
  7. ^ "Osebna izkaznica". Mark.amebis.si. Retrieved 6 October 2018.

External links edit

  • Website of Marko Prezelj
  • [1] Piolet d'Or winner question awards
  • biography and more information

marko, prezelj, born, october, 1965, slovenian, mountaineer, photographer, prezelj, received, four, piolet, awards, inaugural, oscar, mountaineering, 1992, with, andrej, Štremfelj, their, route, south, ridge, kangchenjunga, south, 8476, alpine, style, second, . Marko Prezelj born 13 October 1965 is a Slovenian mountaineer and photographer Marko Prezelj Prezelj received four Piolet d Or awards He won the inaugural Oscar of mountaineering in 1992 with Andrej Stremfelj for their new route on the south ridge of Kangchenjunga South 8476 in alpine style 1 The second he received in 2007 with Boris Lorencic for the first ascent of Chomolhari s northwest pillar in October 2006 Prezelj rejected his second award 2 because of his concern about the dangers of a competition 3 In 2014 he received his third Piolet d Or together with Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic for their first ascent of the north face of Hagshu in the Indian Himalaya 4 5 6 In 2016 he won his fourth Piolet d Or Prezelj has a degree in Chemical Engineering and is an IFMGA UIAGM mountain guide and climbing instructor He is married and has two sons 7 Ascents selection edit1987 Lhotse Shar Expedition reached 7300 m 1988 New route on the north face of Cho Oyu 1989 Shisha Pangma south face attempt solo ascent of the Kang Ri 6240 m 1991 Kangchenjunga 8476 m south ridge new route first ascent of Boktoh 6142 m second ascent of Talung 7349 m 1992 First ascent of Melungtse 7181 m 1993 El Capitan fifth ascent of Wyoming Sheep Ranch 1995 Torre Norte del Paine in Chile 1998 New route on Porong Ri East Summit 7284 m and Yebokangal Ri 7332 m 1999 First ascent of the north wall of the Gyachung Kang 7952 m 2000 Second ascent of the Golden Pillar of Spantik 2001 Begguya and Denali 6193 m in Alaska Light Traveller on the south face new route free climbed in a single push style and Nilkanth west ridge 6596 m 2002 Nuptse south face attempt 2004 North Twin North Face ascent with Steve House and Kapura Peak 6544m new route and first ascent 2005 Kayish new route 2006 The Long Run on Cerro Torre and Extreme Emotions on Cerro Standhardt free on sight ascent of Cobra Oillar on Mt Barille Alaska andChomolhari 7326 m northwest pillar 2007 First ascent of K7 West in Karakoram 2008 New route on W face of Kangchungtse 7678 m 2009 Baghirathi IV III and II new routes 2010 Bisotun Wall Iran new route 2011 Makalu W face attempt reached 7000 m and integral ridge traverse of Chago peaksReferences edit Inhaltsseite 25 April 2012 Archived from the original on 25 April 2012 Retrieved 7 October 2018 2007 PIOLET D OR WINNER QUESTIONS AWARDS Alpinist com Retrieved 6 October 2018 The other side of the 2006 Golden Ice Axe Montagnes talks about Prezelj and the Piolet Archived 2007 05 14 at the Wayback Machine at climbing com Nomines www pioletsdor com Archived from the original on 2 April 2015 Retrieved 14 January 2022 Permit Fiasco Leads Two Teams to One Kishtwar Peak Alpinist com Retrieved 6 October 2018 Slovenian First Ascent on Hagshu North Face Ukclimbing com Retrieved 6 October 2018 Osebna izkaznica Mark amebis si Retrieved 6 October 2018 External links editWebsite of Marko Prezelj 1 Piolet d Or winner question awards biography and more information Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Marko Prezelj amp oldid 1181223781, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

article

, read, download, free, free download, mp3, video, mp4, 3gp, jpg, jpeg, gif, png, picture, music, song, movie, book, game, games.