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Cho Oyu

January 01, 1970

Cho Oyu (Nepali: चोयु; Tibetan: ཇོ་བོ་དབུ་ཡ; Chinese: 卓奥友峰) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at 8,188 metres (26,864 ft) above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan.[2] The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the Khumbu sub-section of the Mahalangur Himalaya 20 km west of Mount Everest. The mountain stands on the China Tibet–Nepal Koshi Pradesh border.

Cho Oyu
The south side of Cho Oyu from Gokyo.
Highest point
Elevation8,188 m (26,864 ft)
Ranked 6th
Prominence2,340 m (7,680 ft)[1]
Isolation29 km (18 mi) 
ListingEight-thousander
Ultra
Coordinates28°05′39″N 86°39′39″E / 28.09417°N 86.66083°E / 28.09417; 86.66083
Naming
English translationTurquoise Goddess
Language of nameTibetan
Geography
Cho Oyu
Location in Province No. 1, Nepal and Tibet Autonomous Region, China
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu (Nepal)
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu (Tibet)
LocationNepal (Province No. 1)–China (Tibet)
Parent rangeMahalangur Himal, Himalayas
Climbing
First ascentOctober 19, 1954 by Herbert Tichy, Joseph Jöchler, Pasang Dawa Lama
(First winter ascent 12 February 1985 Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski)
Easiest routesnow/ice/glacier climb

Just a few kilometres west of Cho Oyu is Nangpa La (5,716m/18,753 ft), a glaciated pass that serves as the main trading route between the Tibetans and the Khumbu's Sherpas. This pass separates the Khumbu and Rolwaling Himalayas. Due to its proximity to this pass and the generally moderate slopes of the standard northwest ridge route, Cho Oyu is considered the easiest 8,000 metre peak to climb.[3] It is a popular objective for professionally guided parties.

Height edit

Cho Oyu's height was originally measured at 26,750 feet (8,150 m) and at the time of the first ascent it was considered the 7th highest mountain on earth, after Dhaulagiri at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) (Manaslu, now 8,156 metres (26,759 ft), was also estimated lower at 26,658 feet (8,125 m)).[4] A 1984 estimate of 8,201 metres (26,906 ft) made it move up to sixth place. New measurements made in 1996 by the Government of Nepal Survey Department and the Finnish Meteorological Institute in preparation for the Nepal Topographic Maps put the height at 8,188 m,[5] one remarkably similar to the 26,867 feet (8,189 m) used by Edmund Hillary in his 1955 book High Adventure.[6]

Climbing history edit

Cho Oyu was first attempted in 1952 by an expedition organised and financed by the Joint Himalayan Committee of Great Britain as preparation for an attempt on Mount Everest the following year. The expedition was led by Eric Shipton and included Edmund Hillary, Tom Bourdillon and George Lowe.[7] A foray by Hillary and Lowe was stopped due to technical difficulties and avalanche danger at an ice cliff above 6,650 m (21,820 ft) and a report of Chinese troops a short distance across the border influenced Shipton to retreat from the mountain rather than continue to attempt to summit.[8]

The mountain was first climbed on October 19, 1954, via the north-west ridge by Herbert Tichy, Joseph Jöchler and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama of an Austrian expedition.[9] Cho Oyu was the fifth eight-thousander to be climbed, after Annapurna in June 1950, Mount Everest in May 1953, Nanga Parbat in July 1953 and K2 in July 1954. Until the ascent of Mount Everest by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler in 1978, this was the highest peak climbed without supplemental oxygen.[10]

 
Viewing Cho Oyu via Tingri

Cho Oyu is considered the easiest eight-thousander,[nb 1] with the lowest death-summit ratio (1⁄25th of Annapurna's).[12][13] It is the second most climbed eight-thousander after Everest (whose height makes it the most popular), and has over four times the ascents of the third most popular eight-thousander, Gasherbrum II. It is marketed as a "trekking peak", achievable for climbers with high fitness, but low mountaineering experience.[citation needed] It has a broadly flat summit plateau with no cairn (the traditional prayer flags on Cho Oyu's summit plateau do not mark the "technical" summit),[nb 2] which can be a source of confusion, and debate, amongst climbers (see Elizabeth Hawley).[nb 3]

View edit

 Chomo LonzoMakaluEverestTibetan PlateauRong River (Tibet)ChangtseRongbuk GlacierNorth Face (Everest)East Rongbuk GlacierNorth Col north ridge routeLhotseNuptseSouth Col routeGyachung KangCho Oyu
Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)

Timeline edit

 
Ascent by a team from China University of Geosciences (Wuhan) on 2 October 2008
  • 1952 First reconnaissance of north-west face by Edmund Hillary and party.[9]
  • 1954 First ascent by Austrians Joseph Jöchler and Herbert Tichy, and Pasang Dawa Lama (Nepal)[9]
  • 1958 Second ascent of the peak, by an Indian expedition. Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama reaches the peak for the second time. First death on Cho Oyu.[9]
  • 1959 Four members are killed in an avalanche during a failed international women's expedition.[9]
  • 1964 A controversial third ascent by a German expedition as there is no proof of reaching the summit. Two mountaineers die of exhaustion in camp 4 at 7,600 m (24,930 ft).[9]
  • 1978 Edi Koblmüller and Alois Furtner of Austria summit via the extremely difficult southeast face.[9]
  • 1983 Reinhold Messner succeeds on his fourth attempt,[9] with Hans Kammerlander and Michael Dacher.
  • 1984 Věra Komárková (USA) and Dina Štěrbová (Czechoslovakia) become the first women to climb Cho Oyu. Štěrbová is also the first woman from Czechoslovakia to climb an 8,000er.
  • 1985 On February 12, Poles Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski make the first winter ascent via a new route on the southeast face. It is the only winter ascent on an eight-thousander made on a new route and the first winter ascent without additional oxygen support. The ascent was repeated three days later by Andrzej Heinrich and Jerzy Kukuczka, with Kukuczka setting an additional record for climbing two eight-thousanders during the same winter, as he had earlier climbed Dhaulagiri.
  • 1988 On November 2, a Slovenian expedition consisting of Iztok Tomazin, Roman Robas, Blaž Jereb, Rado Nadvešnik, Marko Prezelj and Jože Rozman reach the summit via the never before climbed north face.
  • 1994 On May 13 Carlos Carsolio sets a world record speed ascent from base camp to summit, ascending in 18 hours and 45 minutes.[16]
  • 1994 First solo ascent via the South West face by Yasushi Yamanoi.[17]
  • 2000 Russian-Finnish expedition of nine climbers summitted the top, but two of them disappeared in the attempt and were presumed dead.[18]
  • 2004 Second summit by a double amputee (Mark Inglis)[19]
  • 2007 Second Indian ascent. Expedition led by Abhilekh Singh Virdi.[20]
  • 2009 Clifton Maloney, husband of US Representative Carolyn Maloney and at that time the oldest American to summit an eight-thousander,[21] died at age 71 after summiting on 25 September. His final words were "I’m the happiest man in the world. I’ve just summited a beautiful mountain."[22]
  • 2011 Dutch climber Ronald Naar dies after becoming unwell at 8,000 m (26,250 ft).[23][24]

See also edit

 
Viewing Cho Oyu, from the southwest, via mountain flight

Notes edit

  1. ^ Of the fourteen mountains surpassing the magic number 8000 metres in height, it is considered the easiest one to climb, and only the highest, Everest, has had more ascents.[11]
  2. ^ Many people who climb Cho Oyu in Tibet stop at a set of prayer flags with views of Everest and believe they’ve reached the top, unaware they still have to walk for 15 minutes across the summit plateau until they can see the Gokyo Lakes in Nepal.[14]
  3. ^ Miss Hawley uses the “did you see Everest” as her standard question, I have mentioned this to her as well. I have summitted Cho Oyu 4 times and will be heading for my fifth this coming season. Each time I have watched the Koreans and Japanese go only to where they can see Everest, not the summit, because they know this is what will be asked.[15]

References edit

  1. ^ "China I: Tibet - Xizang". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-29.
  2. ^ "NASA Earth Observatory: Cho Oyu". NASA. 2018.
  3. ^ . Peakware.com. Archived from the original on 2016-03-04.
  4. ^ Tichy, Herbert (1957). Cho Oyu: by favour of the gods. Methuen. p. 195. Retrieved 2016-10-28.
  5. ^ . Archived from the original on 2016-09-24. Retrieved 2016-09-24.
  6. ^ Hillary, Edmund (1955). High Adventure. Oxford University Press. p. 49. ISBN 9780195167344.
  7. ^ Barnett, Shaun (7 December 2010). "Cho Oyu expedition team, 1952". The Dictionary of New Zealand Biography.
  8. ^ Hillary, pp. 79-80
  9. ^ a b c d e f g h Everest News.com. "Cho Oyu History". Retrieved 2008-04-12.
  10. ^ Günter Seyfferth, Cho Oyu, 8201 m, Erkundung, Erstbesteigung, Erstbegehungen, Ereignisse (in German)
  11. ^ "Goddess of Turquoise: my attempt on Cho Oyu". Mark Horrell. August 2010.
  12. ^ "Stairway to heaven". The Economist. 29 May 2013. Retrieved 2015-09-07As of March 2012{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: postscript (link)
  13. ^ "ALL 8000ers – ASCENTS vs FATALITIES". 8000ers.com. 2008.
  14. ^ "When is a summit not a summit?". Mark Horrell. 12 November 2014.
  15. ^ "Cho Oyu summit: Where is it exactly". Explorersweb.com. September 2017.
  16. ^ . Outside Online. 2000. Archived from the original on 13 August 2007. Retrieved 2014-01-15.
  17. ^ Griffin, Lindsay (11 Oct 2011). "Piolets d'Or Asia honours Urubko". The British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 2014-01-15.
  18. ^ Yershov, Andrew (27 May 2000). . Archived from the original on 2015-06-09. Retrieved 2022-05-17.
  19. ^ "Double amputee scales Mt Everest". BBC News. 16 May 2006. Retrieved 2014-05-17.
  20. ^ "Timeline Climbing Of Cho Oyu". blogspot.com. June 2011. Retrieved 2014-01-15.
  21. ^ . thevillager.com. Archived from the original on 10 October 2016. Retrieved 2017-11-08.
  22. ^ . 2009-10-01. Archived from the original on 2009-10-01. Retrieved 2017-11-08.
  23. ^ "Dutch Climber Ronald Naar dies on Cho Oyu". The Outside Blog Dispatches. Outside Online. 25 May 2011. Retrieved 2014-01-15.
  24. ^ "Dutch mountaineer Ronald Naar dies during China climb". DutchNews.nl. 23 May 2011. Retrieved 2014-01-15.

Sources edit

External links edit

  Media related to Cho Oyu at Wikimedia Commons

  • Cho Oyu page on Summitpost.org
  • Cho Oyu page on Himalaya-Info.org (German)
  • . Peakware.com. Archived from the original on 2016-03-04.
  • Cho Oyu from Kyrgyzstan
  • Birdseye view video

January 01, 1970
nepali, tibetan, དབ, chinese, 卓奥友峰, sixth, highest, mountain, world, metres, above, level, means, turquoise, goddess, tibetan, mountain, westernmost, major, peak, khumbu, section, mahalangur, himalaya, west, mount, everest, mountain, stands, china, tibet, nepa. Cho Oyu Nepali च य Tibetan ཇ བ དབ ཡ Chinese 卓奥友峰 is the sixth highest mountain in the world at 8 188 metres 26 864 ft above sea level Cho Oyu means Turquoise Goddess in Tibetan 2 The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the Khumbu sub section of the Mahalangur Himalaya 20 km west of Mount Everest The mountain stands on the China Tibet Nepal Koshi Pradesh border Cho OyuThe south side of Cho Oyu from Gokyo Highest pointElevation8 188 m 26 864 ft Ranked 6thProminence2 340 m 7 680 ft 1 Isolation29 km 18 mi ListingEight thousanderUltraCoordinates28 05 39 N 86 39 39 E 28 09417 N 86 66083 E 28 09417 86 66083NamingEnglish translationTurquoise GoddessLanguage of nameTibetanGeographyCho OyuLocation in Province No 1 Nepal and Tibet Autonomous Region ChinaShow map of Koshi ProvinceCho OyuCho Oyu Nepal Show map of NepalCho OyuCho Oyu Tibet Show map of TibetLocationNepal Province No 1 China Tibet Parent rangeMahalangur Himal HimalayasClimbingFirst ascentOctober 19 1954 by Herbert Tichy Joseph Jochler Pasang Dawa Lama First winter ascent 12 February 1985 Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski Easiest routesnow ice glacier climb Just a few kilometres west of Cho Oyu is Nangpa La 5 716m 18 753 ft a glaciated pass that serves as the main trading route between the Tibetans and the Khumbu s Sherpas This pass separates the Khumbu and Rolwaling Himalayas Due to its proximity to this pass and the generally moderate slopes of the standard northwest ridge route Cho Oyu is considered the easiest 8 000 metre peak to climb 3 It is a popular objective for professionally guided parties Height editCho Oyu s height was originally measured at 26 750 feet 8 150 m and at the time of the first ascent it was considered the 7th highest mountain on earth after Dhaulagiri at 8 167 metres 26 795 ft Manaslu now 8 156 metres 26 759 ft was also estimated lower at 26 658 feet 8 125 m 4 A 1984 estimate of 8 201 metres 26 906 ft made it move up to sixth place New measurements made in 1996 by the Government of Nepal Survey Department and the Finnish Meteorological Institute in preparation for the Nepal Topographic Maps put the height at 8 188 m 5 one remarkably similar to the 26 867 feet 8 189 m used by Edmund Hillary in his 1955 book High Adventure 6 Climbing history editCho Oyu was first attempted in 1952 by an expedition organised and financed by the Joint Himalayan Committee of Great Britain as preparation for an attempt on Mount Everest the following year The expedition was led by Eric Shipton and included Edmund Hillary Tom Bourdillon and George Lowe 7 A foray by Hillary and Lowe was stopped due to technical difficulties and avalanche danger at an ice cliff above 6 650 m 21 820 ft and a report of Chinese troops a short distance across the border influenced Shipton to retreat from the mountain rather than continue to attempt to summit 8 The mountain was first climbed on October 19 1954 via the north west ridge by Herbert Tichy Joseph Jochler and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama of an Austrian expedition 9 Cho Oyu was the fifth eight thousander to be climbed after Annapurna in June 1950 Mount Everest in May 1953 Nanga Parbat in July 1953 and K2 in July 1954 Until the ascent of Mount Everest by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler in 1978 this was the highest peak climbed without supplemental oxygen 10 nbsp Viewing Cho Oyu via Tingri Cho Oyu is considered the easiest eight thousander nb 1 with the lowest death summit ratio 1 25 th of Annapurna s 12 13 It is the second most climbed eight thousander after Everest whose height makes it the most popular and has over four times the ascents of the third most popular eight thousander Gasherbrum II It is marketed as a trekking peak achievable for climbers with high fitness but low mountaineering experience citation needed It has a broadly flat summit plateau with no cairn the traditional prayer flags on Cho Oyu s summit plateau do not mark the technical summit nb 2 which can be a source of confusion and debate amongst climbers see Elizabeth Hawley nb 3 View edit nbsp Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages Timeline edit nbsp Ascent by a team from China University of Geosciences Wuhan on 2 October 2008 1952 First reconnaissance of north west face by Edmund Hillary and party 9 1954 First ascent by Austrians Joseph Jochler and Herbert Tichy and Pasang Dawa Lama Nepal 9 1958 Second ascent of the peak by an Indian expedition Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama reaches the peak for the second time First death on Cho Oyu 9 1959 Four members are killed in an avalanche during a failed international women s expedition 9 1964 A controversial third ascent by a German expedition as there is no proof of reaching the summit Two mountaineers die of exhaustion in camp 4 at 7 600 m 24 930 ft 9 1978 Edi Koblmuller and Alois Furtner of Austria summit via the extremely difficult southeast face 9 1983 Reinhold Messner succeeds on his fourth attempt 9 with Hans Kammerlander and Michael Dacher 1984 Vera Komarkova USA and Dina Sterbova Czechoslovakia become the first women to climb Cho Oyu Sterbova is also the first woman from Czechoslovakia to climb an 8 000er 1985 On February 12 Poles Maciej Berbeka and Maciej Pawlikowski make the first winter ascent via a new route on the southeast face It is the only winter ascent on an eight thousander made on a new route and the first winter ascent without additional oxygen support The ascent was repeated three days later by Andrzej Heinrich and Jerzy Kukuczka with Kukuczka setting an additional record for climbing two eight thousanders during the same winter as he had earlier climbed Dhaulagiri 1988 On November 2 a Slovenian expedition consisting of Iztok Tomazin Roman Robas Blaz Jereb Rado Nadvesnik Marko Prezelj and Joze Rozman reach the summit via the never before climbed north face 1994 On May 13 Carlos Carsolio sets a world record speed ascent from base camp to summit ascending in 18 hours and 45 minutes 16 1994 First solo ascent via the South West face by Yasushi Yamanoi 17 2000 Russian Finnish expedition of nine climbers summitted the top but two of them disappeared in the attempt and were presumed dead 18 2004 Second summit by a double amputee Mark Inglis 19 2007 Second Indian ascent Expedition led by Abhilekh Singh Virdi 20 2009 Clifton Maloney husband of US Representative Carolyn Maloney and at that time the oldest American to summit an eight thousander 21 died at age 71 after summiting on 25 September His final words were I m the happiest man in the world I ve just summited a beautiful mountain 22 2011 Dutch climber Ronald Naar dies after becoming unwell at 8 000 m 26 250 ft 23 24 See also edit nbsp Viewing Cho Oyu from the southwest via mountain flight 1952 British Cho Oyu expedition Nangpa La shooting incident in 2006 Cho Oyu 8201m Field Recordings from TibetNotes edit Of the fourteen mountains surpassing the magic number 8000 metres in height it is considered the easiest one to climb and only the highest Everest has had more ascents 11 Many people who climb Cho Oyu in Tibet stop at a set of prayer flags with views of Everest and believe they ve reached the top unaware they still have to walk for 15 minutes across the summit plateau until they can see the Gokyo Lakes in Nepal 14 Miss Hawley uses the did you see Everest as her standard question I have mentioned this to her as well I have summitted Cho Oyu 4 times and will be heading for my fifth this coming season Each time I have watched the Koreans and Japanese go only to where they can see Everest not the summit because they know this is what will be asked 15 References edit China I Tibet Xizang Peaklist org Retrieved 2014 05 29 NASA Earth Observatory Cho Oyu NASA 2018 Cho Oyu Peakware com Archived from the original on 2016 03 04 Tichy Herbert 1957 Cho Oyu by favour of the gods Methuen p 195 Retrieved 2016 10 28 2886 15 Pasan Lhamu Chuli map Archived from the original on 2016 09 24 Retrieved 2016 09 24 Hillary Edmund 1955 High Adventure Oxford University Press p 49 ISBN 9780195167344 Barnett Shaun 7 December 2010 Cho Oyu expedition team 1952 The Dictionary of New Zealand Biography Hillary pp 79 80 a b c d e f g h Everest News com Cho Oyu History Retrieved 2008 04 12 Gunter Seyfferth Cho Oyu 8201 m Erkundung Erstbesteigung Erstbegehungen Ereignisse in German Goddess of Turquoise my attempt on Cho Oyu Mark Horrell August 2010 Stairway to heaven The Economist 29 May 2013 Retrieved 2015 09 07 As of March 2012 a href Template Cite web html title Template Cite web cite web a CS1 maint postscript link ALL 8000ers ASCENTS vs FATALITIES 8000ers com 2008 When is a summit not a summit Mark Horrell 12 November 2014 Cho Oyu summit Where is it exactly Explorersweb com September 2017 Guest Carlos Carsolio Outside Online 2000 Archived from the original on 13 August 2007 Retrieved 2014 01 15 Griffin Lindsay 11 Oct 2011 Piolets d Or Asia honours Urubko The British Mountaineering Council Retrieved 2014 01 15 Yershov Andrew 27 May 2000 Russian Finnish Expedition Cho Oyu 2000 Archived from the original on 2015 06 09 Retrieved 2022 05 17 Double amputee scales Mt Everest BBC News 16 May 2006 Retrieved 2014 05 17 Timeline Climbing Of Cho Oyu blogspot com June 2011 Retrieved 2014 01 15 Clifton Maloney 71 died on one of highest peaks thevillager com Archived from the original on 10 October 2016 Retrieved 2017 11 08 Rep Carolyn Maloney s Husband Dies During Mountain Climb Gothamist 2009 10 01 Archived from the original on 2009 10 01 Retrieved 2017 11 08 Dutch Climber Ronald Naar dies on Cho Oyu The Outside Blog Dispatches Outside Online 25 May 2011 Retrieved 2014 01 15 Dutch mountaineer Ronald Naar dies during China climb DutchNews nl 23 May 2011 Retrieved 2014 01 15 Sources editHillary Edmund 1955 High Adventure Bloomsbury Publishing ISBN 0 7475 6696 8 Retrieved 2014 01 15 Herbert Tichy Cho Oyu Gnade der Gotter Vienna Ullstein 1955 External links edit nbsp Media related to Cho Oyu at Wikimedia Commons Cho Oyu page on Summitpost org Cho Oyu page on Himalaya Info org German Cho Oyu Peakware com Archived from the original on 2016 03 04 Ascents and fatalities statistics Cho Oyu from Kyrgyzstan Birdseye view video Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Cho Oyu amp oldid 1208717246, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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