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Iona

Iona (/ˈnə/; Scottish Gaelic: Ì Chaluim Chille [ˈiː ˈxal̪ˠɪm ˈçiʎə] , sometimes simply Ì) is a small island in the Inner Hebrides, off the Ross of Mull on the western coast of Scotland. It is mainly known for Iona Abbey, though there are other buildings on the island. Iona Abbey was a centre of Gaelic monasticism for three centuries[3] and is today known for its relative tranquility and natural environment.[6] It is a tourist destination and a place for spiritual retreats. Its modern Scottish Gaelic name means "Iona of (Saint) Columba" (formerly anglicised as "Icolmkill").

Iona
Scottish Gaelic nameÌ Chaluim Chille
Pronunciation[ˈiː ˈxal̪ˠɪm ˈçiʎə]

The Abbey as seen from the sea
Location
Iona
Iona shown within Argyll and Bute
Iona
Iona shown on a map of Great Britain and Ireland
OS grid referenceNM275245
Coordinates56°19′48″N 06°24′36″W / 56.33000°N 6.41000°W / 56.33000; -6.41000
Physical geography
Island groupMull
Area877 ha (3+38 sq mi)
Area rank56 [1]
Highest elevationDùn Ì, 101 m (331 ft)
Administration
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
CountryScotland
Council areaArgyll and Bute
Demographics
Population177[2]
Population rank35 [1]
Largest settlementBaile Mór
References[3][4][5]

The island is referenced in the song Peace of Iona by the british band The Waterboys, and included on their 2003 album Universal Hall.

In 2019, the island's estimated population was 120.[7] Residents engage in farming, using traditional methods.[8] Other occupations include crafting and tourism-related work; some craftsmen make goods for sale locally, such as pottery, tapestries, jewellery and knitted goods.[9][10] In March 1980, the Hugh Fraser Foundation donated much of the main island (and its off-lying islands) to the current owner, the National Trust for Scotland. The abbey and some church buildings are owned by the Iona Cathedral Trust.[11]

One publication, describing the religious significance of the island, says that the island is "known as the birthplace of Celtic Christianity in Scotland,” and notes that “St Columba came here in the year 563 to establish the Abbey, which still stands".[12]

Etymology edit

Because the Hebrides have been successively occupied by speakers of several languages since the Iron Age, many of its islands’ names have more than one possible meaning.[13] Nonetheless, few, if any, have accumulated as many different names over the centuries as the island now known in English as "Iona".

The place-name scholar William J. Watson has shown that the earliest recorded names of the island meant something like "yew-place".[14] The element Ivo-, denoting "yew", occurs in inscriptions in the ogham alphabet (Iva-cattos [genitive], Iva-geni [genitive]) and in Gaulish names (Ivo-rix, Ivo-magus); it may also be the basis of early Gaelic names like Eógan (ogham: Ivo-genos).[15][fn 1] The island's name may also be related to the name of a mythological figure, Fer hÍ mac Eogabail, the foster-son of Manannán, whose forename meaning "man of the yew".[16]

Mac an Tàilleir (2003) has analyzed the more recent Gaelic names of Ì,[fn 2] Ì Chaluim Chille and Eilean Idhe. He notes that the name Ì was "generally lengthened to avoid confusion" to Ì Chaluim Chille, which means "Calum's Iona" or "island of Calum's monastery". (“Calum”’s Latinized form is "Columba".)[17][18] This confusion would have arisen because ì, the original name of the island, would have been confused with the now-obsolete Gaelic noun ì, meaning "island", which was derived from the Old Norse word for island (ey).[19][20] Eilean Idhe means "the isle of Iona", also known as Ì nam ban bòidheach ("the isle of beautiful women"). The modern English name comes from yet another variant, Ioua,[17][18] which arose either from Adomnán's 7th-century attempt to make the Gaelic name fit Latin grammar, or spontaneously, as a derivative of Ivova ("yew place").[21] The change in the island's name from Ioua' to Iona, which is attested from c.1274,[22] resulted from a transcription error due to the similarity of "n" and "u" in Insular Minuscule script.[23]

Despite the continuity of forms in Gaelic from the pre-Norse to the post-Norse era, Haswell-Smith (2004) speculates that the island’s name may be connected with the Norse word Hiōe, meaning "island of the den of the brown bear".[18] The medieval English-language version of the name was "Icolmkill" (and variants thereof).[18]

Table of earliest forms (incomplete)
Form Source Language Notes
Ioua insula Adomnán's Vita Columbae (c. 700) Latin Adomnán calls Eigg Egea insula and Skye Scia insula
Hii, Hy Bede's Historia ecclesiastica gentis Anglorum Latin
Eoa, Iae, Ie,
I Cholaim Chille
Annals of Ulster Irish, Latin U563 Nauigatio Coluim Chille ad Insolam Iae
"The journey of St Columba to Í"
U641 Naufragium scaphe familie Iae.
"Shipwreck of a vessel of the community of Í."
U716 Pascha comotatur in Eoa ciuitate
"The date of Easter is changed in the monastery of Í")[24]
U717 Expulsio familie Ie
"The expulsion of the community of Í"
U778 Niall...a nn-I Cholaim Chille
"Niall... in Í Cholaim Chille"
Hi, Eu Lebor na hUidre Irish Hi con ilur a mmartra
"Hi with the multitude of its relics"
in tan conucaib a chill hi tosuċ .i. Eu
"the time he raised his church first i.e. Eu"
Eo Walafrid Strabo (c. 831) Latin Insula Pictorum quaedam monstratur in oris fluctivago suspensa salo, cognominis Eo
"On the coasts of the Picts is pointed out an isle poised in the rolling sea, whose name is Eo"[25]
Euea insula Life of St Cathróe of Metz Latin

Folk etymology edit

Murray (1966) claims that the "ancient" Gaelic name was Innis nan Druinich ("the isle of Druidic hermits"), but there is no evidence for the "ancient" use of such a name before the nineteenth century, when it appears in the New Statistical Account and it may arise from a misunderstanding of the name Cladh nan Druineach, which means 'burial ground of the embroideresses or artificers' – a cemetery on the east shore of the island. He also repeats a Gaelic story (which he admits is apocryphal) that as Columba's coracle first drew close to the island one of his companions cried out "Chì mi i" meaning "I see her" and that Columba's response was "Henceforth we shall call her Ì".[26]

Geology edit

The geology of Iona is quite complex given the island's size and quite distinct from that of nearby Mull. About half of the island's bedrock is Scourian gneiss assigned to the Lewisian complex and dating from the Archaean eon making it some of the oldest rock in Britain and indeed Europe. Closely associated with these gneisses are mylonite and meta-anorthosite and melagabbro. Along the eastern coast facing Mull are steeply dipping Neoproterozoic age metaconglomerates, metasandstones, metamudstones and hornfelsed metasiltstones ascribed to the Iona Group, described traditionally as Torridonian. In the southwest and on parts of the west coast are pelites and semipelites of Archaean to Proterozoic age. There are small outcrops of Silurian age pink granite on southeastern beaches, similar to those of the Ross of Mull pluton cross the sound to the east. Numerous geological faults cross the island, many in a E-W or NW-SE alignment. Devonian aged microdiorite dykes are found in places and some of these are themselves cut by Palaeocene age camptonite and monchiquite dykes ascribed to the 'Iona-Ross of Mull dyke swarm’. More recent sedimentary deposits of Quaternary age include both present day beach deposits and raised marine deposits around Iona as well as some restricted areas of blown sand.[27][28]

Geography edit

 
The Bay at the Back of the Ocean
 
Map of 1874, with subdivisions:
*Ceann Tsear *Sliabh Meanach *Machar *Sliginach *Sliabh Siar *Staonaig

Iona lies about 2 kilometres (1 mile) from the coast of Mull. It is about 2 km (1 mi) wide and 6 km (4 mi) long with a resident population of 125.[29] Like other places swept by ocean breezes, there are few trees; most of them are near the parish church.

Iona's highest point is Dùn Ì, 101 m (331 ft), an Iron Age hill fort dating from 100 BC – AD 200. Iona's geographical features include the Bay at the Back of the Ocean and Càrn Cùl ri Éirinn (the Hill/Cairn of [turning the] Back to Ireland), said to be adjacent to the beach where St. Columba first landed.

The main settlement, located at St. Ronan's Bay on the eastern side of the island, is called Baile Mòr and is also known locally as "The Village". The primary school, post office, the island's two hotels, the Bishop's House and the ruins of the Nunnery are here. The Abbey and MacLeod Centre are a short walk to the north.[4][30] Port Bàn (white port) beach on the west side of the island is home to the Iona Beach Party.[31]

There are numerous offshore islets and skerries: Eilean Annraidh (island of storm) and Eilean Chalbha (calf island) to the north, Rèidh Eilean and Stac MhicMhurchaidh to the west and Eilean Mùsimul (mouse holm island) and Soa Island to the south are amongst the largest.[4] The steamer Cathcart Park carrying a cargo of salt from Runcorn to Wick ran aground on Soa on 15 April 1912, the crew of 11 escaping in two boats.[32][fn 3]

Subdivision edit

On a map of 1874, the following territorial subdivision is indicated (from north to south):[33]

  • Ceann Tsear (East Head)
  • Sliabh Meanach (Middle Mountain)
  • Machar (Low-lying Grassy Plain)
  • Sliginach (Shelly Area)
  • Sliabh Siar (Rear Mountain)
  • Staonaig (Sloping Ground)

History edit

Dál Riata edit

 
The Book of Kells – Gospel of John

In the early Historic Period Iona lay within the Gaelic kingdom of Dál Riata, in the region controlled by the Cenél Loairn (i.e. Lorn, as it was then). The island was the site of a highly important monastery (see Iona Abbey) during the Early Middle Ages. The monastery was founded in 563 by the monk Columba, also known as Colm Cille, who sailed here from Ireland to live the monastic life. Much later legends (a thousand years later, and without any good evidence) said that he had been exiled from his native Ireland as a result of his involvement in the Battle of Cul Dreimhne.[34] Columba and twelve companions went into exile on Iona and founded a monastery there. The monastery was hugely successful, and may have played a role in the conversion to Christianity of the Picts and Gaels of present-day Scotland in the late 6th century, and was certainly central to the conversion of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria in 635. Many satellite institutions were founded, and Iona became the centre of one of the most important monastic systems in Great Britain and Ireland.[35]

Iona became a renowned centre of learning, and its scriptorium produced highly important documents, probably including the original texts of the Iona Chronicle, thought to be the source for the early Irish annals.[35] The monastery is often associated with the distinctive practices and traditions known as Celtic Christianity. In particular, Iona was a major supporter of the "Celtic" system for calculating the date of Easter at the time of the Easter controversy, which pitted supporters of the Celtic system against those favoring the "Roman" system used elsewhere in Western Christianity. The controversy weakened Iona's ties to Northumbria, which adopted the Roman system at the Synod of Whitby in 664, and to Pictland, which followed suit in the early 8th century. Iona itself did not adopt the Roman system until 715, according to the Anglo-Saxon historian Bede. Iona's prominence was further diminished over the next centuries as a result of Viking raids and the rise of other powerful monasteries in the system, such as the Abbey of Kells.[35][36]

The Book of Kells may have been produced or begun on Iona towards the end of the 8th century.[35][37] Around this time the island's exemplary high crosses were sculpted; these may be the first such crosses to contain the ring around the intersection that became characteristic of the "Celtic cross".[35] The series of Viking raids on Iona began in 794 and, after its treasures had been plundered many times, Columba's relics were removed and divided two ways between Scotland and Ireland in 849 as the monastery was abandoned.[38]

Kingdom of the Isles edit

As the Norse domination of the west coast of Scotland advanced, Iona became part of the Kingdom of the Isles. The Norse Rex plurimarum insularum Amlaíb Cuarán died in 980 or 981 whilst in "religious retirement" on Iona.[39][40] Nonetheless, the island was sacked twice by his successors, on Christmas night 986 and again in 987.[41] Although Iona was never again important to Ireland, it rose to prominence once more in Scotland following the establishment of the Kingdom of Scotland in the later 9th century; the ruling dynasty of Scotland traced its origin to Iona, and the island thus became an important spiritual centre for the new kingdom, with many of its early kings buried there.[35] However, a campaign by Magnus Barelegs led to the formal acknowledgement of Norwegian control of Argyll, in 1098.

Somerled, the brother-in-law of Norway's governor of the region (the King of the Isles), launched a revolt, and made the kingdom independent. A convent for Augustinian nuns was established in about 1208, with Bethóc, Somerled's daughter, as first prioress. The present buildings are of the Benedictine abbey, Iona Abbey, from about 1203, dissolved at the Reformation.

On Somerled's death, nominal Norwegian overlordship of the Kingdom was re-established, but de facto control was split between Somerled's sons, and his brother-in-law.

Kingdom of Scotland edit

Following the 1266 Treaty of Perth the Hebrides were transferred from Norwegian to Scottish overlordship.[42] At the end of the century, King John Balliol was challenged for the throne by Robert the Bruce. By this point, Somerled's descendants had split into three groups, the MacRory, MacDougalls, and MacDonalds. The MacDougalls backed Balliol, so when he was defeated by Bruce, the latter exiled the MacDougalls and transferred their island territories to the MacDonalds; by marrying the heir of the MacRorys, the heir of the MacDonalds re-unified most of Somerled's realm, creating the Lordship of the Isles, under nominal Scottish authority. Iona, which had been a MacDougall territory (together with the rest of Lorn), was given to the Campbells, where it remained for half a century.

In 1354, though in exile and without control of his ancestral lands, John, the MacDougall heir, quitclaimed any rights he had over Mull and Iona to the Lord of the Isles (though this had no meaningful effect at the time). When Robert's son, David II, became king, he spent some time in English captivity; following his release, in 1357, he restored MacDougall authority over Lorn. The 1354 quitclaim, which seems to have been an attempt to ensure peace in just such an eventuality, took automatic effect, splitting Mull and Iona from Lorn, and making it subject to the Lordship of the Isles. Iona remained part of the Lordship of the Isles for the next century and a half.

Following the 1491 Raid on Ross, the Lordship of the Isles was dismantled, and Scotland gained full control of Iona for the second time. The monastery and nunnery continued to be active until the Reformation, when buildings were demolished and all but three of the 360 carved crosses destroyed.[43] The Augustine nunnery now only survives as a number of 13th century ruins, including a church and cloister. By the 1760s little more of the nunnery remained standing than at present, though it is the most complete remnant of a medieval nunnery in Scotland.

Post-Union edit

After a visit in 1773, the English writer Samuel Johnson remarked:

The island, which was once the metropolis of learning and piety, now has no school for education, nor temple for worship.[44]

He estimated the population of the village at 70 families or perhaps 350 inhabitants.

In the 19th century green-streaked marble was commercially mined in the south-east of Iona; the quarry and machinery survive, see 'Marble Quarry remains' below.[45]

Iona Abbey edit

 
Panoramic view
 
Enlargement, showing the location of the abbey and monasteries

Iona Abbey, now an ecumenical church, is of particular historical and religious interest to pilgrims and visitors alike. It is the most elaborate and best-preserved ecclesiastical building surviving from the Middle Ages in the Western Isles of Scotland. Though modest in scale in comparison to medieval abbeys elsewhere in Western Europe, it has a wealth of fine architectural detail, and monuments of many periods. The 8th Duke of Argyll presented the sacred buildings and sites of the island to the Iona Cathedral trust in 1899.[3] Historic Environment Scotland also recommends visiting the Augustinian nunnery, "the most complete nunnery complex to survive in Scotland".[46] It was founded at the same time as the Abbey; many ruins from the 14th century are visible. The nunnery declined after the Scottish Reformation but was still used as a burial place for women.[47]

In front of the Abbey stands the 9th-century St Martin's Cross, one of the best-preserved Celtic crosses in the British Isles, and a replica of the 8th-century St John's Cross (original fragments in the Abbey museum).

The ancient burial ground, called the Rèilig Odhrain (Eng: Oran's "burial place" or "cemetery"), contains the 12th-century chapel of St Odhrán (said to be Columba's uncle), restored at the same time as the Abbey itself. It contains a number of medieval grave monuments. The abbey graveyard is said to contain the graves of many early Scottish Kings, as well as Norse kings from Ireland and Norway. Iona became the burial site for the kings of Dál Riata and their successors. Notable burials there include:

In 1549 an inventory of 48 Scottish, 8 Norwegian and 4 Irish kings was recorded. None of these graves are now identifiable (their inscriptions were reported to have worn away at the end of the 17th century). Saint Baithin and Saint Failbhe may also be buried on the island. The Abbey graveyard is also the final resting place of John Smith, the former Labour Party leader, who loved Iona. His grave is marked with an epitaph quoting Alexander Pope: "An honest man's the noblest work of God".[48]

Limited archaeological investigations commissioned by the National Trust for Scotland found some evidence for ancient burials in 2013. The excavations, conducted in the area of Martyrs Bay, revealed burials from the 6th–8th centuries, probably jumbled up and reburied in the 13–15th centuries.[49]

Other early Christian and medieval monuments have been removed for preservation to the cloister arcade of the Abbey, and the Abbey museum (in the medieval infirmary). The ancient buildings of Iona Abbey are now cared for by Historic Environment Scotland (there is an entrance charge to visit them).

Marble quarry remains edit

 
Iona Marble Quarry

The remains of a marble quarrying enterprise are present in a small bay on the south-east shore of Iona.[50] The quarry is the source of 'Iona Marble', a translucent green and white stone, much used in brooches and other jewellery.[51] The stone has been known of for centuries and was credited with healing and other powers. While the quarry had been used in a small way, it was not until around the end of the 18th century when it was opened up on a more industrial scale by the Duke of Argyle.[52] The difficulties of extracting the hard stone and transporting it meant that the scheme was short lived. Another attempt was started in 1907, this time more successful with considerable quantities of stone extracted and indeed exported. The First World War impacted the quarry, with little quarrying after 1914 and the operation finally closed in 1919. A painting showing the quarry in operation, The Marble Quarry, Iona (1909) by David Young Cameron, is in the collection of Cartwright Hall art gallery in Bradford.[53] The site has been designated as a Scheduled Ancient Monument.[54]

Present day edit

The island, other than the land owned by the Iona Cathedral Trust, was purchased from the Duke of Argyll by Hugh Fraser in 1979 and donated to the National Trust for Scotland.[3] In 2001 Iona's population was 125[55] and by the time of the 2011 census this had grown to 177 usual residents.[2] During the same period Scottish island populations as a whole grew by 4% to 103,702.[56] The estimated permanent population in 2020 was 120.

The island's tourism bureau estimated that roughly 130,000 visitors arrived each year.[7] Many tourists come to visit the Abbey and other ecclesiastical properties and the marble quarry, or to enjoy the nine beaches that are within walking distance of the main area.[57][58]

Iona Community edit

 
Baile Mòr viewed from the Sound of Iona

Not to be confused with the local island community, Iona (Abbey) Community is based within Iona Abbey.

In 1938 George MacLeod founded the Iona Community, an ecumenical Christian community of men and women from different walks of life and different traditions in the Christian church committed to seeking new ways of living the Gospel of Jesus in today's world. This community is a leading force in the present Celtic Christian revival.

The Iona Community runs three residential centres on the Isle of Iona and on Mull, where one can live together in community with people of every background from all over the world. Weeks at the centres often follow a programme related to the concerns of the Iona Community.

The 8 tonne Fallen Christ sculpture by Ronald Rae was permanently situated outside the MacLeod Centre in February 2008.[59]

Transport edit

Visitors can reach Iona by the 10-minute ferry trip across the Sound of Iona from Fionnphort on Mull. The most common route from the mainland is via Oban in Argyll and Bute, where regular ferries connect to Craignure on Mull, from where the scenic road runs 37 miles (60 kilometres) to Fionnphort. Tourist coaches and local bus services meet the ferries.

Car ownership is lightly regulated, with no requirement for a MOT Certificate or payment of Road Tax for cars kept permanently on the island, but vehicular access is restricted to permanent residents and there are few cars. Visitors are not allowed to bring vehicles onto the island although "blue badge holders with restricted mobility ... may apply for a permit under certain exemptions". Visitors will find the village, the shops, the post office, the cafe, the hotels and the abbey are all within walking distance. Bike hire is available at the pier, and on Mull. Taxi service is also available.[60]

Preceding station   Ferry   Following station
Terminus   Caledonian MacBrayne
Iona Ferry
  Fionnphort

Tourism edit

Conde Nast Traveller recommends the island for its "peaceful atmosphere ... a popular place for spiritual retreats" but also recommends the "sandy beaches, cliffs, rocks, fields and bogs ... "wildflowers and birds such as the rare corncrake and puffins" as well as the "abundance of sea life".[61]

The Iona Council advises visitors that they can find a campsite (at Cnoc Oran), a hostel (at Lagandorain), family run bed and breakfasts, and two hotels on the island in addition to several self-catering houses.[62] The agency also mentions that distances are short, with the Abbey a mere 10 minutes’ walk from the pier. Tourists can rent bikes or use the local taxi.[63]

 
Iona from Mull. The Abbey lies below Dun Ì at right and the main settlement of Baile Mòr is to the left.

Iona in Scottish painting edit

The island of Iona has played an important role in Scottish landscape painting, especially during the Twentieth Century. As travel to north and west Scotland became easier from the mid C18 on, artists' visits to the island steadily increased. The Abbey remains in particular became frequently recorded during this early period. Many of the artists are listed and illustrated in the valuable book, Iona Portrayed – The Island through Artists' Eyes 1760–1960,[64] which lists over 170 artists known to have painted on the island.

The C20 however saw the greatest period of influence on landscape painting, in particular through the many paintings of the island produced by F C B Cadell and S J Peploe, two of the ‘Scottish Colourists’. As with many artists, both professional and amateur, they were attracted by the unique quality of light, the white sandy beaches, the aquamarine colours of the sea and the landscape of rich greens and rocky outcrops. While Cadell and Peploe are perhaps best known, many major Scottish painters of the C20 worked on Iona and visited many times – for example George Houston, D Y Cameron, James Shearer, John Duncan and John Maclauchlan Milne,[65] among many.

Media and the arts edit

Samuel Johnson wrote "That man is little to be envied whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plains of Marathon, or whose piety would not grow warmer amid the ruins of Iona."[66]

In Jules Verne's novel The Green Ray, the heroes visit Iona in chapters 13 to 16. The inspiration is romantic, the ruins of the island are conducive to daydreaming. The young heroine, Helena Campbell, argues that Scotland in general and Iona in particular are the scene of the appearance of goblins and other familiar demons.

In Jean Raspail's novel The Fisherman's Ring (1995), his cardinal is one of the last to support the antipope Benedict XIII and his successors.

In the novel The Carved Stone (by Guillaume Prévost), the young Samuel Faulkner is projected in time as he searches for his father and lands on Iona in the year 800, then threatened by the Vikings.

"Peace of Iona" is a song written by Mike Scott that appears on the studio album Universal Hall and on the live recording Karma to Burn by The Waterboys. Iona is the setting for the song "Oran" on the 1997 Steve McDonald album Stone of Destiny.

Kenneth C. Steven published an anthology of poetry entitled Iona: Poems in 2000 inspired by his association with the island and the surrounding area.

Iona is featured prominently in the first episode ("By the Skin of Our Teeth") of the celebrated arts series Civilisation: A Personal View by Kenneth Clark (1969).

Iona is the setting of Jeanne M. Dams' Dorothy Martin mystery Holy Terror of the Hebrides (1998).

The Academy Award–nominated Irish animated film The Secret of Kells is about the creation of the Book of Kells. One of the characters, Brother Aidan, is a master illuminator from Iona Abbey who had helped to illustrate the Book, but had to escape the island with it during a Viking invasion.

Frances Macdonald the contemporary Scottish artist based in Crinian, Argyll, regularly paints landscapes on Iona.

Neil Gaiman's poem "In Relig Odhrain", published in Trigger Warning: Short Fictions and Disturbances (2015), retells the story of Oran's death, and the creation of the chapel on Iona. This poem was made into a short stop-motion animated film, released in 2019.[67]

Iona's local golf course was featured on Season 7's Adventure's in Golf by documentary filmmaker, Erik Anders Lang.[68]

Gallery edit

See also edit

Footnotes edit

  1. ^ The name of the Gaulish god Ivavos, which has a similar origin, is associated with the healing-well of Evaux in France.
  2. ^ For etymology of Ì and Latinised derivative Iona, see Watson (2004), pp. 87–90.
  3. ^ The record is tentative, the press cutting the record refers to identifying "'Sheep Island', one of the Torran Rocks near Iona" but there is no other obvious contender.

References edit

Sources edit

  • Christian, J & Stiller, C (2000), Iona Portrayed – The Island through Artists' Eyes 1760–1960, The New Iona Press, Inverness, 96pp, numerous illustrations in B&W and colour, with list of artists.
  • Dwelly, Edward (1911). Faclair Gàidhlig gu Beurla le Dealbhan/The Illustrated [Scottish] Gaelic- English Dictionary. Edinburgh. Birlinn. ISBN 1-874744-04-1.
  • Fraser, James E. (2009). From Caledonia to Pictland: Scotland to 795. The New Edinburgh History of Scotland. Vol. 1. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press. ISBN 978-0-7486-1232-1.
  • Gregory, Donald (1881) The History of the Western Highlands and Isles of Scotland 1493–1625. Edinburgh. Birlinn. 2008 reprint – originally published by Thomas D. Morrison. ISBN 1-904607-57-8.
  • Haswell-Smith, Hamish (2004). The Scottish Islands. Edinburgh: Canongate. ISBN 978-1-84195-454-7.
  • Hunter, James (2000). Last of the Free: A History of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. Edinburgh. Mainstream. ISBN 1-84018-376-4
  • Johnson, Samuel (1775). A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland. London: Chapman & Dodd. (1924 edition).
  • Koch, John T. (2006). Celtic Culture: A Historical Encyclopedia. ABC-CLIO.
  • Mac an Tàilleir, Iain (2003). "Placenames" (PDF). Edinburgh: Scottish Parliament. p. 67. Retrieved 20 June 2012.
  • Marsden, John (1995). The Illustrated Life of Columba. Edinburgh. Floris Books. ISBN 0-86315-211-2.
  • Murray, W. H. (1966). The Hebrides. London. Heinemann.
  • Ó Corráin, Donnchadh (1998) Vikings in Ireland and Scotland in the Ninth Century CELT.
  • Watson, W. J., The History of the Celtic Place-names of Scotland. Reprinted with an introduction by Simon Taylor, Birlinn, Edinburgh, 2004. ISBN 1-84158-323-5.
  • Woolf, Alex (2007), From Pictland to Alba, 789–1070, The New Edinburgh History of Scotland, Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, ISBN 978-0-7486-1234-5

Citations edit

  1. ^ a b Area and population ranks: there are c. 300 islands over 20 ha in extent and 93 permanently inhabited islands were listed in the 2011 census.
  2. ^ a b National Records of Scotland (15 August 2013). "Appendix 2: Population and households on Scotland's Inhabited Islands" (PDF). Statistical Bulletin: 2011 Census: First Results on Population and Household Estimates for Scotland Release 1C (Part Two) (PDF) (Report). SG/2013/126. Retrieved 14 August 2020.
  3. ^ a b c d Haswell-Smith (2004) pp. 80–84
  4. ^ a b c Ordnance Survey. OS Maps Online (Map). 1:25,000. Leisure.
  5. ^ Anderson, Joseph (Ed.) (1893) Orkneyinga Saga. Translated by Jón A. Hjaltalin & Gilbert Goudie. Edinburgh. James Thin and Mercat Press (1990 reprint). ISBN 0-901824-25-9
  6. ^ Murray (1966) p 81
  7. ^ a b "Isle of Iona".
  8. ^ "ISLE OF IONA".
  9. ^ "Isle of Iona – Saint Columba Island".
  10. ^ "EXPLORE THE NATURAL WONDERS OF IONA".
  11. ^ "Isle of Iona".
  12. ^ "The perfect way to go island hopping in the Hebrides".
  13. ^ Haswell-Smith (2004) p. xiii
  14. ^ Watson, Celtic Place-Names, pp. 87–90
  15. ^ Watson, Celtic Place-Names, pp. 87–88.
  16. ^ Watson, Celtic Place-Names, pp. 88–89
  17. ^ a b Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 67.
  18. ^ a b c d Haswell-Smith (2004) p. 80.
  19. ^ "eDIL – Irish Language Dictionary". dil.ie. Retrieved 21 June 2020.
  20. ^ Dwelly (1911)
  21. ^ Watson, Celtic Place-Names, p. 88
  22. ^ Broderick, George (2013). (PDF). Journal of Scottish Name Studies. 7: 1–28: 13, fn.30. Archived from the original (PDF) on 8 April 2015. Retrieved 23 February 2016.
  23. ^ Fraser (2009) p. 71.
  24. ^ original (translation)
  25. ^ Watson, Celtic Place-Names, p. 88, n. 2
  26. ^ Murray (1966) p. 81.
  27. ^ "Onshore Geoindex". British Geological Survey. British Geological Survey. Retrieved 4 February 2020.
  28. ^ "Ross of Mull, Scotland sheet 43S, Solid and Drift Edition". BGS large map images. British Geological Survey. Retrieved 4 February 2020.
  29. ^ . Archived from the original on 4 July 2008. Retrieved 22 October 2006.
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  31. ^ "It's Been Emotional" 29 April 2012 at the Wayback Machine ionabeachparty.co.uk. Retrieved 8 July 2009.
  32. ^ "Cathcart Park: Soa Island, Passage Of Tiree" RCAHMS. Retrieved 13 July 2009.
  33. ^ John Bartholomew: Modern Hy (1874)
  34. ^ Admonan The Life of St. Columba, Founder of Hy ed. William Reeves (1857) University Press for the Irish Archaeological and Celtic Society. pp. 248–50.
  35. ^ a b c d e f Koch, pp. 657–658.
  36. ^ Forte, Angelo; Oram, Richard; Pedersen, Frederik (2005). Viking Empires. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. pp. 55–58. ISBN 9780521829922.
  37. ^ Forbes, Andrew ; Henley, David (2012). Pages from the Book of Kells. Chiang Mai: Cognoscenti Books. ASIN: B00AN4JVI0
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  39. ^ Ó Corráin (1998) p. 11
  40. ^ Gregory (1881) pp. 4–6
  41. ^ Woolf (2007) pp. 217–18
  42. ^ Hunter (2000) pp. 110–111
  43. ^ "Isle of Iona Visitor Guide, Hotels, Cottages, Things to Do in Scotland". scotland.org.uk. Retrieved 21 June 2020.
  44. ^ A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland, Project Gutenberg.
  45. ^ Industrial Archaeology review, Vol I Number 1 Autumn 1976 The Marble Quarry, Iona, Inner Hebrides, D. J. Viner. Oxford University Press
  46. ^ "Iona Abbey and Nunnery".
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  50. ^ "Iona Marble Quarry from the Gazetteer for Scotland".
  51. ^ "About Iona Marble".
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  64. ^ Christian, Jessica & Stiller, Charles (2000), Iona Portrayed – The Island through Artists' Eyes 1760–1960, The New Iona Press, Inverness, 96pp, numerous illustrations in B&W and colour, with list of artists.
  65. ^ Millar, Maurice N. (2022) 'The Missing Colourist - the search for John Maclauchlan Milne, RSA' pp.95-98 www.themissingcolourist.co.uk
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Further reading edit

  • Campbell, George F. (2006). The First and Lost Iona. Glasgow: Candlemas Hill Publishing. ISBN 1-873586-13-2 (and on Kindle).
  • Herbert, Maire (1996). Iona, Kells and Derry: The History and Hagiography of the Monastic familia of Columba. Dublin: Four Courts Press.
  • MacArthur, E Mairi, Iona, Colin Baxter Island Guide (1997) Colin Baxter Photography, Grantown-on-Spey, 128pp.

External links edit

  • Visit Mull & Iona (Official tourism website for the Isles of Mull and Iona)
  • Isle of Iona, Scotland (A visitors guide to the Isle)
  • The Iona Community
  • Computer-generated virtual panorama Index
  • Map sources for Iona
  • Photo Gallery of Iona by Enrico Martino
  • National Trust for Scotland property page

iona, this, article, about, scottish, island, other, uses, disambiguation, scottish, gaelic, chaluim, chille, ˈiː, ˈxal, ˠɪm, ˈçiʎə, sometimes, simply, small, island, inner, hebrides, ross, mull, western, coast, scotland, mainly, known, abbey, though, there, o. This article is about the Scottish island For other uses see Iona disambiguation Iona aɪ ˈ oʊ n e Scottish Gaelic I Chaluim Chille ˈiː ˈxal ˠɪm ˈciʎe sometimes simply I is a small island in the Inner Hebrides off the Ross of Mull on the western coast of Scotland It is mainly known for Iona Abbey though there are other buildings on the island Iona Abbey was a centre of Gaelic monasticism for three centuries 3 and is today known for its relative tranquility and natural environment 6 It is a tourist destination and a place for spiritual retreats Its modern Scottish Gaelic name means Iona of Saint Columba formerly anglicised as Icolmkill IonaScottish Gaelic nameI Chaluim ChillePronunciation ˈiː ˈxal ˠɪm ˈciʎe The Abbey as seen from the seaLocationIonaIona shown within Argyll and ButeShow map of Argyll and ButeIonaIona shown on a map of Great Britain and IrelandShow map of the United KingdomOS grid referenceNM275245Coordinates56 19 48 N 06 24 36 W 56 33000 N 6 41000 W 56 33000 6 41000Physical geographyIsland groupMullArea877 ha 3 3 8 sq mi Area rank56 1 Highest elevationDun I 101 m 331 ft AdministrationSovereign stateUnited KingdomCountryScotlandCouncil areaArgyll and ButeDemographicsPopulation177 2 Population rank35 1 Largest settlementBaile MorReferences 3 4 5 The island is referenced in the song Peace of Iona by the british band The Waterboys and included on their 2003 album Universal Hall In 2019 the island s estimated population was 120 7 Residents engage in farming using traditional methods 8 Other occupations include crafting and tourism related work some craftsmen make goods for sale locally such as pottery tapestries jewellery and knitted goods 9 10 In March 1980 the Hugh Fraser Foundation donated much of the main island and its off lying islands to the current owner the National Trust for Scotland The abbey and some church buildings are owned by the Iona Cathedral Trust 11 One publication describing the religious significance of the island says that the island is known as the birthplace of Celtic Christianity in Scotland and notes that St Columba came here in the year 563 to establish the Abbey which still stands 12 Contents 1 Etymology 1 1 Folk etymology 2 Geology 3 Geography 3 1 Subdivision 4 History 4 1 Dal Riata 4 2 Kingdom of the Isles 4 3 Kingdom of Scotland 4 4 Post Union 5 Iona Abbey 6 Marble quarry remains 7 Present day 7 1 Iona Community 7 2 Transport 7 3 Tourism 8 Iona in Scottish painting 9 Media and the arts 10 Gallery 11 See also 12 Footnotes 13 References 13 1 Sources 13 2 Citations 14 Further reading 15 External linksEtymology editBecause the Hebrides have been successively occupied by speakers of several languages since the Iron Age many of its islands names have more than one possible meaning 13 Nonetheless few if any have accumulated as many different names over the centuries as the island now known in English as Iona The place name scholar William J Watson has shown that the earliest recorded names of the island meant something like yew place 14 The element Ivo denoting yew occurs in inscriptions in the ogham alphabet Iva cattos genitive Iva geni genitive and in Gaulish names Ivo rix Ivo magus it may also be the basis of early Gaelic names like Eogan ogham Ivo genos 15 fn 1 The island s name may also be related to the name of a mythological figure Fer hI mac Eogabail the foster son of Manannan whose forename meaning man of the yew 16 Mac an Tailleir 2003 has analyzed the more recent Gaelic names of I fn 2 I Chaluim Chille and Eilean Idhe He notes that the name I was generally lengthened to avoid confusion to I Chaluim Chille which means Calum s Iona or island of Calum s monastery Calum s Latinized form is Columba 17 18 This confusion would have arisen because i the original name of the island would have been confused with the now obsolete Gaelic noun i meaning island which was derived from the Old Norse word for island ey 19 20 Eilean Idhe means the isle of Iona also known as I nam ban boidheach the isle of beautiful women The modern English name comes from yet another variant Ioua 17 18 which arose either from Adomnan s 7th century attempt to make the Gaelic name fit Latin grammar or spontaneously as a derivative of Ivova yew place 21 The change in the island s name from Ioua to Iona which is attested from c 1274 22 resulted from a transcription error due to the similarity of n and u in Insular Minuscule script 23 Despite the continuity of forms in Gaelic from the pre Norse to the post Norse era Haswell Smith 2004 speculates that the island s name may be connected with the Norse word Hiōe meaning island of the den of the brown bear 18 The medieval English language version of the name was Icolmkill and variants thereof 18 Table of earliest forms incomplete Form Source Language NotesIoua insula Adomnan s Vita Columbae c 700 Latin Adomnan calls Eigg Egea insula and Skye Scia insulaHii Hy Bede s Historia ecclesiastica gentis Anglorum LatinEoa Iae Ie I Cholaim Chille Annals of Ulster Irish Latin U563 Nauigatio Coluim Chille ad Insolam Iae The journey of St Columba to I U641 Naufragium scaphe familie Iae Shipwreck of a vessel of the community of I U716 Pascha comotatur in Eoa ciuitate The date of Easter is changed in the monastery of I 24 U717 Expulsio familie Ie The expulsion of the community of I U778 Niall a nn I Cholaim Chille Niall in I Cholaim Chille Hi Eu Lebor na hUidre Irish Hi con ilur a mmartra Hi with the multitude of its relics in tan conucaib a chill hi tosuċ i Eu the time he raised his church first i e Eu Eo Walafrid Strabo c 831 Latin Insula Pictorum quaedam monstratur in oris fluctivago suspensa salo cognominis Eo On the coasts of the Picts is pointed out an isle poised in the rolling sea whose name is Eo 25 Euea insula Life of St Cathroe of Metz LatinFolk etymology edit Murray 1966 claims that the ancient Gaelic name was Innis nan Druinich the isle of Druidic hermits but there is no evidence for the ancient use of such a name before the nineteenth century when it appears in the New Statistical Account and it may arise from a misunderstanding of the name Cladh nan Druineach which means burial ground of the embroideresses or artificers a cemetery on the east shore of the island He also repeats a Gaelic story which he admits is apocryphal that as Columba s coracle first drew close to the island one of his companions cried out Chi mi i meaning I see her and that Columba s response was Henceforth we shall call her I 26 Geology editThe geology of Iona is quite complex given the island s size and quite distinct from that of nearby Mull About half of the island s bedrock is Scourian gneiss assigned to the Lewisian complex and dating from the Archaean eon making it some of the oldest rock in Britain and indeed Europe Closely associated with these gneisses are mylonite and meta anorthosite and melagabbro Along the eastern coast facing Mull are steeply dipping Neoproterozoic age metaconglomerates metasandstones metamudstones and hornfelsed metasiltstones ascribed to the Iona Group described traditionally as Torridonian In the southwest and on parts of the west coast are pelites and semipelites of Archaean to Proterozoic age There are small outcrops of Silurian age pink granite on southeastern beaches similar to those of the Ross of Mull pluton cross the sound to the east Numerous geological faults cross the island many in a E W or NW SE alignment Devonian aged microdiorite dykes are found in places and some of these are themselves cut by Palaeocene age camptonite and monchiquite dykes ascribed to the Iona Ross of Mull dyke swarm More recent sedimentary deposits of Quaternary age include both present day beach deposits and raised marine deposits around Iona as well as some restricted areas of blown sand 27 28 Geography edit nbsp The Bay at the Back of the Ocean nbsp Map of 1874 with subdivisions Ceann Tsear Sliabh Meanach Machar Sliginach Sliabh Siar StaonaigIona lies about 2 kilometres 1 mile from the coast of Mull It is about 2 km 1 mi wide and 6 km 4 mi long with a resident population of 125 29 Like other places swept by ocean breezes there are few trees most of them are near the parish church Iona s highest point is Dun I 101 m 331 ft an Iron Age hill fort dating from 100 BC AD 200 Iona s geographical features include the Bay at the Back of the Ocean and Carn Cul ri Eirinn the Hill Cairn of turning the Back to Ireland said to be adjacent to the beach where St Columba first landed The main settlement located at St Ronan s Bay on the eastern side of the island is called Baile Mor and is also known locally as The Village The primary school post office the island s two hotels the Bishop s House and the ruins of the Nunnery are here The Abbey and MacLeod Centre are a short walk to the north 4 30 Port Ban white port beach on the west side of the island is home to the Iona Beach Party 31 There are numerous offshore islets and skerries Eilean Annraidh island of storm and Eilean Chalbha calf island to the north Reidh Eilean and Stac MhicMhurchaidh to the west and Eilean Musimul mouse holm island and Soa Island to the south are amongst the largest 4 The steamer Cathcart Park carrying a cargo of salt from Runcorn to Wick ran aground on Soa on 15 April 1912 the crew of 11 escaping in two boats 32 fn 3 Subdivision edit On a map of 1874 the following territorial subdivision is indicated from north to south 33 Ceann Tsear East Head Sliabh Meanach Middle Mountain Machar Low lying Grassy Plain Sliginach Shelly Area Sliabh Siar Rear Mountain Staonaig Sloping Ground History editDal Riata edit nbsp The Book of Kells Gospel of JohnIn the early Historic Period Iona lay within the Gaelic kingdom of Dal Riata in the region controlled by the Cenel Loairn i e Lorn as it was then The island was the site of a highly important monastery see Iona Abbey during the Early Middle Ages The monastery was founded in 563 by the monk Columba also known as Colm Cille who sailed here from Ireland to live the monastic life Much later legends a thousand years later and without any good evidence said that he had been exiled from his native Ireland as a result of his involvement in the Battle of Cul Dreimhne 34 Columba and twelve companions went into exile on Iona and founded a monastery there The monastery was hugely successful and may have played a role in the conversion to Christianity of the Picts and Gaels of present day Scotland in the late 6th century and was certainly central to the conversion of the Anglo Saxon kingdom of Northumbria in 635 Many satellite institutions were founded and Iona became the centre of one of the most important monastic systems in Great Britain and Ireland 35 Iona became a renowned centre of learning and its scriptorium produced highly important documents probably including the original texts of the Iona Chronicle thought to be the source for the early Irish annals 35 The monastery is often associated with the distinctive practices and traditions known as Celtic Christianity In particular Iona was a major supporter of the Celtic system for calculating the date of Easter at the time of the Easter controversy which pitted supporters of the Celtic system against those favoring the Roman system used elsewhere in Western Christianity The controversy weakened Iona s ties to Northumbria which adopted the Roman system at the Synod of Whitby in 664 and to Pictland which followed suit in the early 8th century Iona itself did not adopt the Roman system until 715 according to the Anglo Saxon historian Bede Iona s prominence was further diminished over the next centuries as a result of Viking raids and the rise of other powerful monasteries in the system such as the Abbey of Kells 35 36 The Book of Kells may have been produced or begun on Iona towards the end of the 8th century 35 37 Around this time the island s exemplary high crosses were sculpted these may be the first such crosses to contain the ring around the intersection that became characteristic of the Celtic cross 35 The series of Viking raids on Iona began in 794 and after its treasures had been plundered many times Columba s relics were removed and divided two ways between Scotland and Ireland in 849 as the monastery was abandoned 38 Kingdom of the Isles edit As the Norse domination of the west coast of Scotland advanced Iona became part of the Kingdom of the Isles The Norse Rex plurimarum insularum Amlaib Cuaran died in 980 or 981 whilst in religious retirement on Iona 39 40 Nonetheless the island was sacked twice by his successors on Christmas night 986 and again in 987 41 Although Iona was never again important to Ireland it rose to prominence once more in Scotland following the establishment of the Kingdom of Scotland in the later 9th century the ruling dynasty of Scotland traced its origin to Iona and the island thus became an important spiritual centre for the new kingdom with many of its early kings buried there 35 However a campaign by Magnus Barelegs led to the formal acknowledgement of Norwegian control of Argyll in 1098 Somerled the brother in law of Norway s governor of the region the King of the Isles launched a revolt and made the kingdom independent A convent for Augustinian nuns was established in about 1208 with Bethoc Somerled s daughter as first prioress The present buildings are of the Benedictine abbey Iona Abbey from about 1203 dissolved at the Reformation On Somerled s death nominal Norwegian overlordship of the Kingdom was re established but de facto control was split between Somerled s sons and his brother in law Kingdom of Scotland edit Following the 1266 Treaty of Perth the Hebrides were transferred from Norwegian to Scottish overlordship 42 At the end of the century King John Balliol was challenged for the throne by Robert the Bruce By this point Somerled s descendants had split into three groups the MacRory MacDougalls and MacDonalds The MacDougalls backed Balliol so when he was defeated by Bruce the latter exiled the MacDougalls and transferred their island territories to the MacDonalds by marrying the heir of the MacRorys the heir of the MacDonalds re unified most of Somerled s realm creating the Lordship of the Isles under nominal Scottish authority Iona which had been a MacDougall territory together with the rest of Lorn was given to the Campbells where it remained for half a century In 1354 though in exile and without control of his ancestral lands John the MacDougall heir quitclaimed any rights he had over Mull and Iona to the Lord of the Isles though this had no meaningful effect at the time When Robert s son David II became king he spent some time in English captivity following his release in 1357 he restored MacDougall authority over Lorn The 1354 quitclaim which seems to have been an attempt to ensure peace in just such an eventuality took automatic effect splitting Mull and Iona from Lorn and making it subject to the Lordship of the Isles Iona remained part of the Lordship of the Isles for the next century and a half Following the 1491 Raid on Ross the Lordship of the Isles was dismantled and Scotland gained full control of Iona for the second time The monastery and nunnery continued to be active until the Reformation when buildings were demolished and all but three of the 360 carved crosses destroyed 43 The Augustine nunnery now only survives as a number of 13th century ruins including a church and cloister By the 1760s little more of the nunnery remained standing than at present though it is the most complete remnant of a medieval nunnery in Scotland Post Union edit After a visit in 1773 the English writer Samuel Johnson remarked The island which was once the metropolis of learning and piety now has no school for education nor temple for worship 44 He estimated the population of the village at 70 families or perhaps 350 inhabitants In the 19th century green streaked marble was commercially mined in the south east of Iona the quarry and machinery survive see Marble Quarry remains below 45 Iona Abbey editMain article Iona Abbey nbsp Panoramic view nbsp Enlargement showing the location of the abbey and monasteriesIona Abbey now an ecumenical church is of particular historical and religious interest to pilgrims and visitors alike It is the most elaborate and best preserved ecclesiastical building surviving from the Middle Ages in the Western Isles of Scotland Though modest in scale in comparison to medieval abbeys elsewhere in Western Europe it has a wealth of fine architectural detail and monuments of many periods The 8th Duke of Argyll presented the sacred buildings and sites of the island to the Iona Cathedral trust in 1899 3 Historic Environment Scotland also recommends visiting the Augustinian nunnery the most complete nunnery complex to survive in Scotland 46 It was founded at the same time as the Abbey many ruins from the 14th century are visible The nunnery declined after the Scottish Reformation but was still used as a burial place for women 47 In front of the Abbey stands the 9th century St Martin s Cross one of the best preserved Celtic crosses in the British Isles and a replica of the 8th century St John s Cross original fragments in the Abbey museum The ancient burial ground called the Reilig Odhrain Eng Oran s burial place or cemetery contains the 12th century chapel of St Odhran said to be Columba s uncle restored at the same time as the Abbey itself It contains a number of medieval grave monuments The abbey graveyard is said to contain the graves of many early Scottish Kings as well as Norse kings from Ireland and Norway Iona became the burial site for the kings of Dal Riata and their successors Notable burials there include Cinaed mac Ailpin king of the Picts also known today as Kenneth I of Scotland Domnall mac Causantin alternatively king of the Picts or king of Scotland Donald II Mael Coluim mac Domnaill king of Scotland Malcolm I Donnchad mac Crinain king of Scotland Duncan I Mac Bethad mac Findlaich king of Scotland Macbeth Domnall mac Donnchada king of Scotland Donald III John Smith Labour Party LeaderIn 1549 an inventory of 48 Scottish 8 Norwegian and 4 Irish kings was recorded None of these graves are now identifiable their inscriptions were reported to have worn away at the end of the 17th century Saint Baithin and Saint Failbhe may also be buried on the island The Abbey graveyard is also the final resting place of John Smith the former Labour Party leader who loved Iona His grave is marked with an epitaph quoting Alexander Pope An honest man s the noblest work of God 48 Limited archaeological investigations commissioned by the National Trust for Scotland found some evidence for ancient burials in 2013 The excavations conducted in the area of Martyrs Bay revealed burials from the 6th 8th centuries probably jumbled up and reburied in the 13 15th centuries 49 Other early Christian and medieval monuments have been removed for preservation to the cloister arcade of the Abbey and the Abbey museum in the medieval infirmary The ancient buildings of Iona Abbey are now cared for by Historic Environment Scotland there is an entrance charge to visit them Marble quarry remains edit nbsp Iona Marble QuarryThe remains of a marble quarrying enterprise are present in a small bay on the south east shore of Iona 50 The quarry is the source of Iona Marble a translucent green and white stone much used in brooches and other jewellery 51 The stone has been known of for centuries and was credited with healing and other powers While the quarry had been used in a small way it was not until around the end of the 18th century when it was opened up on a more industrial scale by the Duke of Argyle 52 The difficulties of extracting the hard stone and transporting it meant that the scheme was short lived Another attempt was started in 1907 this time more successful with considerable quantities of stone extracted and indeed exported The First World War impacted the quarry with little quarrying after 1914 and the operation finally closed in 1919 A painting showing the quarry in operation The Marble Quarry Iona 1909 by David Young Cameron is in the collection of Cartwright Hall art gallery in Bradford 53 The site has been designated as a Scheduled Ancient Monument 54 Present day editThe island other than the land owned by the Iona Cathedral Trust was purchased from the Duke of Argyll by Hugh Fraser in 1979 and donated to the National Trust for Scotland 3 In 2001 Iona s population was 125 55 and by the time of the 2011 census this had grown to 177 usual residents 2 During the same period Scottish island populations as a whole grew by 4 to 103 702 56 The estimated permanent population in 2020 was 120 The island s tourism bureau estimated that roughly 130 000 visitors arrived each year 7 Many tourists come to visit the Abbey and other ecclesiastical properties and the marble quarry or to enjoy the nine beaches that are within walking distance of the main area 57 58 Iona Community edit Main article Iona Community nbsp Baile Mor viewed from the Sound of IonaNot to be confused with the local island community Iona Abbey Community is based within Iona Abbey In 1938 George MacLeod founded the Iona Community an ecumenical Christian community of men and women from different walks of life and different traditions in the Christian church committed to seeking new ways of living the Gospel of Jesus in today s world This community is a leading force in the present Celtic Christian revival The Iona Community runs three residential centres on the Isle of Iona and on Mull where one can live together in community with people of every background from all over the world Weeks at the centres often follow a programme related to the concerns of the Iona Community The 8 tonne Fallen Christ sculpture by Ronald Rae was permanently situated outside the MacLeod Centre in February 2008 59 Transport edit Visitors can reach Iona by the 10 minute ferry trip across the Sound of Iona from Fionnphort on Mull The most common route from the mainland is via Oban in Argyll and Bute where regular ferries connect to Craignure on Mull from where the scenic road runs 37 miles 60 kilometres to Fionnphort Tourist coaches and local bus services meet the ferries Car ownership is lightly regulated with no requirement for a MOT Certificate or payment of Road Tax for cars kept permanently on the island but vehicular access is restricted to permanent residents and there are few cars Visitors are not allowed to bring vehicles onto the island although blue badge holders with restricted mobility may apply for a permit under certain exemptions Visitors will find the village the shops the post office the cafe the hotels and the abbey are all within walking distance Bike hire is available at the pier and on Mull Taxi service is also available 60 Preceding station Ferry Following stationTerminus Caledonian MacBrayneIona Ferry FionnphortTourism edit Conde Nast Traveller recommends the island for its peaceful atmosphere a popular place for spiritual retreats but also recommends the sandy beaches cliffs rocks fields and bogs wildflowers and birds such as the rare corncrake and puffins as well as the abundance of sea life 61 The Iona Council advises visitors that they can find a campsite at Cnoc Oran a hostel at Lagandorain family run bed and breakfasts and two hotels on the island in addition to several self catering houses 62 The agency also mentions that distances are short with the Abbey a mere 10 minutes walk from the pier Tourists can rent bikes or use the local taxi 63 nbsp Iona from Mull The Abbey lies below Dun I at right and the main settlement of Baile Mor is to the left Iona in Scottish painting editThe island of Iona has played an important role in Scottish landscape painting especially during the Twentieth Century As travel to north and west Scotland became easier from the mid C18 on artists visits to the island steadily increased The Abbey remains in particular became frequently recorded during this early period Many of the artists are listed and illustrated in the valuable book Iona Portrayed The Island through Artists Eyes 1760 1960 64 which lists over 170 artists known to have painted on the island The C20 however saw the greatest period of influence on landscape painting in particular through the many paintings of the island produced by F C B Cadell and S J Peploe two of the Scottish Colourists As with many artists both professional and amateur they were attracted by the unique quality of light the white sandy beaches the aquamarine colours of the sea and the landscape of rich greens and rocky outcrops While Cadell and Peploe are perhaps best known many major Scottish painters of the C20 worked on Iona and visited many times for example George Houston D Y Cameron James Shearer John Duncan and John Maclauchlan Milne 65 among many nbsp Cathedral Rock Iona Samuel Peploe 1920 Aberdeen Art Gallery nbsp Lunga from Iona Francis Cadell Aberdeen Art Gallery nbsp Stormy Weather Iona Samuel Peploe ca 1929 Aberdeen Art GalleryMedia and the arts editSamuel Johnson wrote That man is little to be envied whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plains of Marathon or whose piety would not grow warmer amid the ruins of Iona 66 In Jules Verne s novel The Green Ray the heroes visit Iona in chapters 13 to 16 The inspiration is romantic the ruins of the island are conducive to daydreaming The young heroine Helena Campbell argues that Scotland in general and Iona in particular are the scene of the appearance of goblins and other familiar demons In Jean Raspail s novel The Fisherman s Ring 1995 his cardinal is one of the last to support the antipope Benedict XIII and his successors In the novel The Carved Stone by Guillaume Prevost the young Samuel Faulkner is projected in time as he searches for his father and lands on Iona in the year 800 then threatened by the Vikings Peace of Iona is a song written by Mike Scott that appears on the studio album Universal Hall and on the live recording Karma to Burn by The Waterboys Iona is the setting for the song Oran on the 1997 Steve McDonald album Stone of Destiny Kenneth C Steven published an anthology of poetry entitled Iona Poems in 2000 inspired by his association with the island and the surrounding area Iona is featured prominently in the first episode By the Skin of Our Teeth of the celebrated arts series Civilisation A Personal View by Kenneth Clark 1969 Iona is the setting of Jeanne M Dams Dorothy Martin mystery Holy Terror of the Hebrides 1998 The Academy Award nominated Irish animated film The Secret of Kells is about the creation of the Book of Kells One of the characters Brother Aidan is a master illuminator from Iona Abbey who had helped to illustrate the Book but had to escape the island with it during a Viking invasion Frances Macdonald the contemporary Scottish artist based in Crinian Argyll regularly paints landscapes on Iona Neil Gaiman s poem In Relig Odhrain published in Trigger Warning Short Fictions and Disturbances 2015 retells the story of Oran s death and the creation of the chapel on Iona This poem was made into a short stop motion animated film released in 2019 67 Iona s local golf course was featured on Season 7 s Adventure s in Golf by documentary filmmaker Erik Anders Lang 68 Gallery edit nbsp St Martin s Cross from the 9th century nbsp Iona Nunnery nbsp Abbey cloisters nbsp Looking towards St Columba s Bay nbsp Jetty at Baile MorSee also edit nbsp Scottish islands portalList of islands of Scotland Bishop s House Iona Clann an oistir Dal Riata Statutes of IonaFootnotes edit The name of the Gaulish god Ivavos which has a similar origin is associated with the healing well of Evaux in France For etymology of I and Latinised derivative Iona see Watson 2004 pp 87 90 The record is tentative the press cutting the record refers to identifying Sheep Island one of the Torran Rocks near Iona but there is no other obvious contender References editSources edit Christian J amp Stiller C 2000 Iona Portrayed The Island through Artists Eyes 1760 1960 The New Iona Press Inverness 96pp numerous illustrations in B amp W and colour with list of artists Dwelly Edward 1911 Faclair Gaidhlig gu Beurla le Dealbhan The Illustrated Scottish Gaelic English Dictionary Edinburgh Birlinn ISBN 1 874744 04 1 Fraser James E 2009 From Caledonia to Pictland Scotland to 795 The New Edinburgh History of Scotland Vol 1 Edinburgh Edinburgh University Press ISBN 978 0 7486 1232 1 Gregory Donald 1881 The History of the Western Highlands and Isles of Scotland 1493 1625 Edinburgh Birlinn 2008 reprint originally published by Thomas D Morrison ISBN 1 904607 57 8 Haswell Smith Hamish 2004 The Scottish Islands Edinburgh Canongate ISBN 978 1 84195 454 7 Hunter James 2000 Last of the Free A History of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland Edinburgh Mainstream ISBN 1 84018 376 4 Johnson Samuel 1775 A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland London Chapman amp Dodd 1924 edition Koch John T 2006 Celtic Culture A Historical Encyclopedia ABC CLIO Mac an Tailleir Iain 2003 Placenames PDF Edinburgh Scottish Parliament p 67 Retrieved 20 June 2012 Marsden John 1995 The Illustrated Life of Columba Edinburgh Floris Books ISBN 0 86315 211 2 Murray W H 1966 The Hebrides London Heinemann o Corrain Donnchadh 1998 Vikings in Ireland and Scotland in the Ninth Century CELT Watson W J The History of the Celtic Place names of Scotland Reprinted with an introduction by Simon Taylor Birlinn Edinburgh 2004 ISBN 1 84158 323 5 Woolf Alex 2007 From Pictland to Alba 789 1070 The New Edinburgh History of Scotland Edinburgh Edinburgh University Press ISBN 978 0 7486 1234 5Citations edit a b Area and population ranks there are c 300 islands over 20 ha in extent and 93 permanently inhabited islands were listed in the 2011 census a b National Records of Scotland 15 August 2013 Appendix 2 Population and households on Scotland s Inhabited Islands PDF Statistical Bulletin 2011 Census First Results on Population and Household Estimates for Scotland Release 1C Part Two PDF Report SG 2013 126 Retrieved 14 August 2020 a b c d Haswell Smith 2004 pp 80 84 a b c Ordnance Survey OS Maps Online Map 1 25 000 Leisure Anderson Joseph Ed 1893 Orkneyinga Saga Translated by Jon A Hjaltalin amp Gilbert Goudie Edinburgh James Thin and Mercat Press 1990 reprint ISBN 0 901824 25 9 Murray 1966 p 81 a b Isle of Iona ISLE OF IONA Isle of Iona Saint Columba Island EXPLORE THE NATURAL WONDERS OF IONA Isle of Iona The perfect way to go island hopping in the Hebrides Haswell Smith 2004 p xiii Watson Celtic Place Names pp 87 90 Watson Celtic Place Names pp 87 88 Watson Celtic Place Names pp 88 89 a b Mac an Tailleir 2003 p 67 a b c d Haswell Smith 2004 p 80 eDIL Irish Language Dictionary dil ie Retrieved 21 June 2020 Dwelly 1911 Watson Celtic Place Names p 88 Broderick George 2013 Some island names in the former Kingdom of the Isles a reappraisal PDF Journal of Scottish Name Studies 7 1 28 13 fn 30 Archived from the original PDF on 8 April 2015 Retrieved 23 February 2016 Fraser 2009 p 71 original translation Watson Celtic Place Names p 88 n 2 Murray 1966 p 81 Onshore Geoindex British Geological Survey British Geological Survey Retrieved 4 February 2020 Ross of Mull Scotland sheet 43S Solid and Drift Edition BGS large map images British Geological Survey Retrieved 4 February 2020 Scotland Census 2001 analyser Archived from the original on 4 July 2008 Retrieved 22 October 2006 Murray 1966 pp 82 83 It s Been Emotional Archived 29 April 2012 at the Wayback Machine ionabeachparty co uk Retrieved 8 July 2009 Cathcart Park Soa Island Passage Of Tiree RCAHMS Retrieved 13 July 2009 John Bartholomew Modern Hy 1874 Admonan The Life of St Columba Founder of Hy ed William Reeves 1857 University Press for the Irish Archaeological and Celtic Society pp 248 50 a b c d e f Koch pp 657 658 Forte Angelo Oram Richard Pedersen Frederik 2005 Viking Empires Cambridge Cambridge University Press pp 55 58 ISBN 9780521829922 Forbes Andrew Henley David 2012 Pages from the Book of Kells Chiang Mai Cognoscenti Books ASIN B00AN4JVI0 BBC History Scottish History BBC Retrieved 21 June 2020 o Corrain 1998 p 11 Gregory 1881 pp 4 6 Woolf 2007 pp 217 18 Hunter 2000 pp 110 111 Isle of Iona Visitor Guide Hotels Cottages Things to Do in Scotland scotland org uk Retrieved 21 June 2020 A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland Project Gutenberg Industrial Archaeology review Vol I Number 1 Autumn 1976 The Marble Quarry Iona Inner Hebrides D J Viner Oxford University Press Iona Abbey and Nunnery The Nunnery Walk Of The Month The island of Iona Archived 22 October 2007 at the Wayback Machine The Independent 4 June 2006 Alistair Munro 17 May 2013 Isle of Iona may be ancient burial site The Scotsman Edinburgh Scotland Retrieved 7 April 2019 Iona Marble Quarry from the Gazetteer for Scotland About Iona Marble MacArthur E Mairi Iona Colin Baxter Island Guide 1997 Colin Baxter Photography Grantown on Spey see Chapter 10 128pp The Marble Quarry Iona ArtUK Retrieved 16 April 2019 Historic Environment Scotland Iona Marble Quarry quarry NE of An t Aird SM5255 Retrieved 16 April 2019 General Register Office for Scotland 28 November 2003 Scotland s Census 2001 Occasional Paper No 10 Statistics for Inhabited Islands Retrieved 26 February 2012 Scotland s 2011 census Island living on the rise BBC News Retrieved 18 August 2013 Welcome to the Isle of Iona Places of Interest The Fallen Christ on Iona iona org uk Archived from the original on 9 June 2008 Retrieved 8 July 2009 Vehicles on Iona THE 20 MOST BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS TO VISIT IN SCOTLAND Accommodation Getting Around Christian Jessica amp Stiller Charles 2000 Iona Portrayed The Island through Artists Eyes 1760 1960 The New Iona Press Inverness 96pp numerous illustrations in B amp W and colour with list of artists Millar Maurice N 2022 The Missing Colourist the search for John Maclauchlan Milne RSA pp 95 98 www themissingcolourist co uk Johnson 1775 p 217 The Grave of St Oran Retrieved 21 June 2020 Miles of YELLOW FAIRWAY at Far Away Iona Adventures in Golf Season 7 retrieved 19 April 2023Further reading editCampbell George F 2006 The First and Lost Iona Glasgow Candlemas Hill Publishing ISBN 1 873586 13 2 and on Kindle Herbert Maire 1996 Iona Kells and Derry The History and Hagiography of the Monastic familia of Columba Dublin Four Courts Press MacArthur E Mairi Iona Colin Baxter Island Guide 1997 Colin Baxter Photography Grantown on Spey 128pp External links edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Iona nbsp Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Iona nbsp Wikisource has the text of The New Student s Reference Work article Iona Visit Mull amp Iona Official tourism website for the Isles of Mull and Iona Isle of Iona Scotland A visitors guide to the Isle The Iona Community Computer generated virtual panorama Summit of Iona Index Map sources for Iona Photo Gallery of Iona by Enrico Martino National Trust for Scotland property page Portal nbsp Scotland Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Iona amp oldid 1188840430, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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