The first Europeans recorded as seeing Mount Fitz Roy were the Spanish explorer Antonio de Viedma and his companions, who reached the shores of Viedma Lake in 1783. Argentine explorer Francisco Moreno saw the mountain on 2 March 1877; he named it Fitz Roy in honour of Robert FitzRoy who, as captain of HMS Beagle, had travelled up the Santa Cruz River in 1834 and charted large parts of the Patagonian coast.[7]
Cerro is a Spanish word meaning ridge or hill, while Chaltén comes from a Tehuelche (Aonikenk) word meaning "smoking mountain", because a cloud usually forms around the mountain's peak. Fitz Roy is one of several peaks the Tehuelche called Chaltén.[7]
Geography
Argentina and Chile have agreed that their international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit,[2] but a large part of the border to the south of the summit, as far as Cerro Murallón, remains undefined.[8] The mountain is the symbol of the Argentine Santa Cruz Province, which includes its representation on its flag and its coat of arms.
Nevertheless, most of the summit remains in uncontested Argentinian territory, including its famous peak -which is inaccessible from the Chilean side- and even enjoying its sight remains -in practical terms- pretty much restricted to the Eastern slopes of the Andes.
Notable ascents
Fitz Roy and lake Capri - Parque Nacional Los Glaciares
1952, Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone via Southeast Ridge (Franco-Argentine Ridge) (first ascent - 2 February 1952)[9]
1965, Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge (from Argentina) via Supercanaleta (1,600m, TD+ 5.10 90deg) in 2+1⁄2 days (second ascent)[10]
1968, Southwest Ridge aka The Californian Route (third ascent). Ascent by the "Fun Hogs": Yvon Chouinard (who went on to found outdoor clothing and equipment company Patagonia and climbing equipment company Black Diamond Equipment), Dick Dorworth, Chris Jones, Lito Tejada-Flores (filmmaker, whose 16mm Bolex camera footage of the ascent was used for the film of the expedition entitled Mountain of Storms) and Douglas Tompkins (who, in 1964, had co-founded outdoor equipment and clothing company The North Face).[11][12]
1972, Southeast Ridge (fourth ascent). Ian Wade (U.S.), Dave Nicol (UK), Mo Anthoine (UK), Guy Lee (UK), Larry Derby (U.S.) & Eddie Birch (UK).
1980, following the Col Americano route, Gino Casassa (Chile, monitor of the Andinism Federation of Chile) and Walter Bertsch (Austria) arrived at the peak together. Alejandro Izquierdo (Chilean) climbed to 2,800 m.[13]
1984, Franco Argentina Route by Marcos Couch, Eduardo Brenner, Alberto Bendinger, and Pedro Friedrich.
1986, First winter ascent, in July, by Argentines Eduardo Brenner, Sebastián De La Cruz and Gabriel Ruiz, over three days via Supercanaleta.
1990, First winter solo ascent, in July, by Yasushi Yamanoi.
2009, Matthew McCarron, solo via The Californian Route[10]
2014, Between 12 and 16 February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz Traverse", climbing across the iconic ridge line of Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks.[15] The route is 5 kilometers long and has approximately 4,000 meters of vertical elevation, with routes ranging in difficulty up to 5.11d.[16]
2021, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll completed the second ascent and first solo ascent of the "Fitz Traverse", completing the route in reverse.[17][18]He received a Piolet d'Or award in 2022.[19]
2022, Colin Haley, first solo winter ascent of Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy.[20]
^ ab"Argentina and Chile, Southern - Patagonia Ultra Prominences". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 5 October 2013.
^ abcd. 1998. Archived from the original on 31 May 2016. Retrieved 7 August 2006.
^ abc. Archived from the original on 24 August 2018. Retrieved 26 June 2016.
^ abcLa montaña que parece echar humo, en la Patagonia
^ abcLa silueta del Fitz Roy www.interpatagonia.com, accessed 21 June 2021
^MONTE FITZ ROY Andes Hand Book, www.andeshandbook.org, accessed 21 June 2021
^ abMoreno, FP (2006) [1879]. Viaje a la Patagonia Austral (in Spanish). La Nacion (Elefante Blanco). p. 2. ISBN987-96054-7-0. Como este volcán activo no ha sido mencionado por los navegantes ni viajeros, y como el nombre de Chaltén que le dan los indios lo aplican también a otras montañas, me permito llamarle volcán Fitz Roy - English: Since this active volcano has not been mentioned by navigators or travellers, and since the name Chalten that the Indians call it is also applied to other mountains, I allow myself to name it Fitz Roy volcano
^"Map showing the border between Chile and Argentina (partly undefined)". Retrieved 26 June 2016.
^Silleck, H (3 February 2007). "Patagonia: Fitzroy". Summitpost.org. Summitpost.org. Retrieved 2 February 2009.
^ abcdMacDonald, D (15 January 2009). "Haley Solos Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta". Climbing Hot Flashes. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 15 August 2016.
^Thompkins, D; Carter, HA (1969). "Fitz Roy, 1968". American Alpine Journal. 16 (43): 263–9.
^Patagonia. "Mountain of Storms". Patagonia. Retrieved 7 April 2020.
^. Archived from the original on 10 June 2016. Retrieved 21 May 2016.
^ abLevy, Michael (9 April 2019). "Jim Reynolds' Fitz Roy Free Solo: Putting it in Perspective with the Pros". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 24 January 2021.
^MacDonald, D (18 February 2014). "Caldwell, Honnold Complete Fitz Traverse". Climbing News. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 15 August 2016.
^Garibotti, R. (18 February 2014). Caldwell, Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse. www.alpinist.com Retrieved 5 September 2018
^Slavsky, Bennett. "Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll Completes The Fitz Traverse Solo". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 13 February 2021.
^"Patagonia Climbing on Instagram: "Congrats to @seanvillanuevaodriscoll, who just completed the Reverse Fitz Traverse... alone, with only a rope, a penny whistle and some…"". Instagram. Archived from the original on 24 December 2021. Retrieved 13 February 2021.
^"Piolets d'Or 2022 : trio géorgien au Saraghrar, solo belge au Fitz Roy et mention spéciale pour l'Annapurna III". Montagne Magazine. Retrieved 14 October 2022.
^ "Colin Haley on the First Winter Solo of 'Supercanaleta,' Patagonian Classic". Climbing. 3 October 2022. Retrieved 30 October 2022.
Further reading
Kearney A, 1993. Mountaineering in Patagonia. Seattle, Washington: Cloudcap.
Terray L, Conquistadors of the Useless, p. 307-8, Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1963. ISBN0-89886-778-9
External links
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Monte Fitz Roy.
Andeshandbook: complete description, history, place name and routes of Fitz Roy
"Cerro Fitzroy, Argentina/Chile" on Peakbagger
. Peakware.com. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016.
Monte Fitz Roy in History (in Spanish)
Fitz Roy Summit Google Photo Sphere 3Feb2019
January 20, 2023
fitz, this, article, about, mountain, other, uses, fitzroy, disambiguation, monte, also, known, cerro, chaltén, cerro, simply, mount, mountain, patagonia, border, between, argentina, chile, located, southern, patagonian, field, near, chaltén, village, viedma, . This article is about the mountain For other uses see Fitzroy disambiguation Monte Fitz Roy also known as Cerro Chalten Cerro Fitz Roy or simply Mount Fitz Roy is a mountain in Patagonia on the border between Argentina and Chile 2 3 6 4 5 It is located in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field near El Chalten village and Viedma Lake It was first climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone Monte Fitz RoyMonte Fitz Roy in 2013Highest pointElevation3 405 m 11 171 ft 1 Prominence1 951 m 6 401 ft 1 ListingUltraCoordinates49 16 16 6 S 73 02 35 6 W 49 271278 S 73 043222 W 49 271278 73 043222 Coordinates 49 16 16 6 S 73 02 35 6 W 49 271278 S 73 043222 W 49 271278 73 043222GeographyMonte Fitz RoyLocation in the Southern Patagonia on the border between Argentina and Chile 2 3 4 5 LocationPatagonia Argentina Chile border 2 3 4 5 CountryArgentinaChileParent rangeAndesGeologyMountain typeGraniteClimbingFirst ascent1952 by Lionel Terray amp Guido MagnoneEasiest routeFranco Argentina 650m 6a 6c A1 Contents 1 European discovery 2 Geography 3 Notable ascents 4 See also 5 References 6 Further reading 7 External linksEuropean discovery EditThe first Europeans recorded as seeing Mount Fitz Roy were the Spanish explorer Antonio de Viedma and his companions who reached the shores of Viedma Lake in 1783 Argentine explorer Francisco Moreno saw the mountain on 2 March 1877 he named it Fitz Roy in honour of Robert FitzRoy who as captain of HMS Beagle had travelled up the Santa Cruz River in 1834 and charted large parts of the Patagonian coast 7 Cerro is a Spanish word meaning ridge or hill while Chalten comes from a Tehuelche Aonikenk word meaning smoking mountain because a cloud usually forms around the mountain s peak Fitz Roy is one of several peaks the Tehuelche called Chalten 7 Geography EditArgentina and Chile have agreed that their international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit 2 but a large part of the border to the south of the summit as far as Cerro Murallon remains undefined 8 The mountain is the symbol of the Argentine Santa Cruz Province which includes its representation on its flag and its coat of arms Nevertheless most of the summit remains in uncontested Argentinian territory including its famous peak which is inaccessible from the Chilean side and even enjoying its sight remains in practical terms pretty much restricted to the Eastern slopes of the Andes Notable ascents Edit Fitz Roy and lake Capri Parque Nacional Los Glaciares 1952 Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone via Southeast Ridge Franco Argentine Ridge first ascent 2 February 1952 9 1965 Carlos Comesana and Jose Luis Fonrouge from Argentina via Supercanaleta 1 600m TD 5 10 90deg in 2 1 2 days second ascent 10 1968 Southwest Ridge aka The Californian Route third ascent Ascent by the Fun Hogs Yvon Chouinard who went on to found outdoor clothing and equipment company Patagonia and climbing equipment company Black Diamond Equipment Dick Dorworth Chris Jones Lito Tejada Flores filmmaker whose 16mm Bolex camera footage of the ascent was used for the film of the expedition entitled Mountain of Storms and Douglas Tompkins who in 1964 had co founded outdoor equipment and clothing company The North Face 11 12 1972 Southeast Ridge fourth ascent Ian Wade U S Dave Nicol UK Mo Anthoine UK Guy Lee UK Larry Derby U S amp Eddie Birch UK 1980 following the Col Americano route Gino Casassa Chile monitor of the Andinism Federation of Chile and Walter Bertsch Austria arrived at the peak together Alejandro Izquierdo Chilean climbed to 2 800 m 13 1984 Franco Argentina Route by Marcos Couch Eduardo Brenner Alberto Bendinger and Pedro Friedrich 1986 First winter ascent in July by Argentines Eduardo Brenner Sebastian De La Cruz and Gabriel Ruiz over three days via Supercanaleta 1990 First winter solo ascent in July by Yasushi Yamanoi 2002 Dean Potter first free solo via Supercanaleta 10 14 2009 Colin Haley solo via Supercanaleta 10 2009 Matthew McCarron solo via The Californian Route 10 2014 Between 12 and 16 February Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed Fitz Traverse climbing across the iconic ridge line of Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks 15 The route is 5 kilometers long and has approximately 4 000 meters of vertical elevation with routes ranging in difficulty up to 5 11d 16 2019 Jim Reynolds free solo 14 2021 Sean Villanueva O Driscoll completed the second ascent and first solo ascent of the Fitz Traverse completing the route in reverse 17 18 He received a Piolet d Or award in 2022 19 2022 Colin Haley first solo winter ascent of Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy 20 See also Edit Andes portalVilla O Higgins Candelario Mancilla Del Desierto Lake Torres del Paine National Park Bernardo O Higgins National Park Los Glaciares National Park Perito Moreno Glacier Cordillera del Paine O Higgins San Martin LakeReferences Edit a b Argentina and Chile Southern Patagonia Ultra Prominences Peaklist org Retrieved 5 October 2013 a b c d Border agreement between Chile and Argentina to determine the border from Mount Fitz Roy to Daudet 1998 Archived from the original on 31 May 2016 Retrieved 7 August 2006 a b c Mount Fitz Roy Difrol cl Archived from the original on 24 August 2018 Retrieved 26 June 2016 a b c La montana que parece echar humo en la Patagonia a b c La silueta del Fitz Roy www interpatagonia com accessed 21 June 2021 MONTE FITZ ROY Andes Hand Book www andeshandbook org accessed 21 June 2021 a b Moreno FP 2006 1879 Viaje a la Patagonia Austral in Spanish La Nacion Elefante Blanco p 2 ISBN 987 96054 7 0 Como este volcan activo no ha sido mencionado por los navegantes ni viajeros y como el nombre de Chalten que le dan los indios lo aplican tambien a otras montanas me permito llamarle volcan Fitz Roy English Since this active volcano has not been mentioned by navigators or travellers and since the name Chalten that the Indians call it is also applied to other mountains I allow myself to name it Fitz Roy volcano Map showing the border between Chile and Argentina partly undefined Retrieved 26 June 2016 Silleck H 3 February 2007 Patagonia Fitzroy Summitpost org Summitpost org Retrieved 2 February 2009 a b c d MacDonald D 15 January 2009 Haley Solos Fitz Roy s Supercanaleta Climbing Hot Flashes Climbing Magazine Retrieved 15 August 2016 Thompkins D Carter HA 1969 Fitz Roy 1968 American Alpine Journal 16 43 263 9 Patagonia Mountain of Storms Patagonia Retrieved 7 April 2020 First chilean climb of Mount Fitz Roy Perros Alpinos cl Archived from the original on 10 June 2016 Retrieved 21 May 2016 a b Levy Michael 9 April 2019 Jim Reynolds Fitz Roy Free Solo Putting it in Perspective with the Pros Rock and Ice Retrieved 24 January 2021 MacDonald D 18 February 2014 Caldwell Honnold Complete Fitz Traverse Climbing News Climbing Magazine Retrieved 15 August 2016 Garibotti R 18 February 2014 Caldwell Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse www alpinist com Retrieved 5 September 2018 Slavsky Bennett Sean Villanueva O Driscoll Completes The Fitz Traverse Solo Climbing Magazine Retrieved 13 February 2021 Patagonia Climbing on Instagram Congrats to seanvillanuevaodriscoll who just completed the Reverse Fitz Traverse alone with only a rope a penny whistle and some Instagram Archived from the original on 24 December 2021 Retrieved 13 February 2021 Piolets d Or 2022 trio georgien au Saraghrar solo belge au Fitz Roy et mention speciale pour l Annapurna III Montagne Magazine Retrieved 14 October 2022 Colin Haley on the First Winter Solo of Supercanaleta Patagonian Classic Climbing 3 October 2022 Retrieved 30 October 2022 Further reading EditKearney A 1993 Mountaineering in Patagonia Seattle Washington Cloudcap Terray L Conquistadors of the Useless p 307 8 Victor Gollancz Ltd 1963 ISBN 0 89886 778 9External links Edit Wikimedia Commons has media related to Monte Fitz Roy Andeshandbook complete description history place name and routes of Fitz Roy Cerro Fitzroy Argentina Chile on Peakbagger Fitz Roy Peakware com Archived from the original on 4 March 2016 Monte Fitz Roy in History in Spanish Fitz Roy Summit Google Photo Sphere 3Feb2019 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Fitz Roy amp oldid 1131596293, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
