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Lionel Terray

January 28, 2023

Lionel Terray (25 July 1921 – 19 September 1965) was a French climber who made many first ascents, including on the 1955 French Makalu expedition in the Himalaya (with Jean Couzy on 15 May 1955) and Cerro Fitz Roy in the Patagonian Andes (with Guido Magnone in 1952).

Terray's grave in Chamonix

A climbing guide and ski instructor, Terray was active in mountain combat against Germany during World War II. After the war, he became well known as one of the best Chamonix climbers and guides, noted for his speedy ascents of some of the most notorious climbs in the French, Italian, and Swiss Alps: the Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses, the south face of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, the north-east face of Piz Badile, and the north face of the Eiger. Terray, frequently with climbing partner Louis Lachenal, broke previous climbing speed records.

Terray was a member of Maurice Herzog's 1950 expedition to the Nepalese Himalayan peak, Annapurna, the highest peak climbed at the time, and the first 8000-meter peak climbed (although British climbers George Mallory, Andrew Irvine, George Finch, Geoffrey Bruce, Henry Morshead, Teddy Norton and Howard Somervell had reached higher altitudes on Mount Everest during the 1920s). Terray did not reach the summit of Annapurna, but together with the Sherpa Adjiba he aided summiteers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal down from the mountain. Both Herzog and Lachenal experienced extreme frostbite and subsequently underwent amputations.[1] Despite these events, the French team returned to Paris to huge public acclaim, and Herzog's expedition book Annapurna became an international bestseller.

Terray made the second ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in 1947, with Louis Lachenal. He was also one of the main participants in the great attempt to rescue four climbers trapped on the north face of the Eiger in 1957. This mission forms the subject of Jack Olsen's 1962 book, The Climb Up To Hell, in which Terray's skill and bravery receive special mention.

In the late 1950s and early 1960s, Terray made a number of first ascents in Peru, including the highest unclimbed peak in the central Andes at the time, 6,395-metre (20,981 ft) Huantsan. He also made first ascents of lower but more difficult peaks, including Willka Wiqi, Soray, Tawllirahu, and Chakrarahu/Chacraraju, possibly the hardest peak in the Peruvian Andes and considered unclimbable at the time. One of Terray's finest achievements was the first ascent of 7,710-metre (25,295 ft) Jannu in Nepal in 1962. He also climbed the Nilgiris near Annapurna, and led the successful 1964 first ascent of 3,730-metre (12,240 ft) Mount Huntington, in the Alaska Range, by the northwest ridge.[2]

Terray organised a rescue attempt of two climbers stranded on Mont Blanc in December 1956. For this he was expelled from the Chamonix Guide's Association, which had refused to participate in the rescue from the start on the grounds that the risk to the rescuers would be too great.[3] Due to the fact that no other guides would accompany him, Terray set out a small team of amateurs. They were turned back on 1 January 1957 either by poor weather[3] or on the understanding that a helicopter would attempt a rescue the following day.[4] Terray was highly critical of the Chamonix Guide Association's inaction when the alarm had first been raised.[5]

Terray died[how?] on a rock climb in the Vercors, south of Grenoble, on 19 September 1965, several years after the publication of his climbing memoir, Conquistadors of the Useless. There were rumors that Terray was functionally illiterate and the book was ghost-written; however in a Foreword written by author and climber David Roberts to an English edition, he confirms he found the original manuscript written in Terray's hand which is word for word what was published, dispelling any notion that Terray did not write the book entirely himself.[6]

His grave is situated in Chamonix, France. A traffic circle is named for him in Chamonix, WSW of town.

Principal expeditions

Principal expeditions:[7]

Bibliography

  • Terray, Lionel (1961). Les Conquérants de l'inutile. France: Gallimard. ASIN B000HJRAVQ.
  • Terray, Lionel (2000). Conquistadors of the Useless. Translated by Geoffrey Sutton. Baton Wicks Publications; New Ed. ISBN 1-898573-38-7.
  • Terray, Lionel; Franco, Jean (1965). Bataille pour Le Jannu. France: Gallimard. ISBN 2-07-010203-3.

References

  1. ^ Herzog, Maurice (1997). Annapurna. New York, NY, USA: The Lyons Press. ISBN 1-55821-549-2.
  2. ^ Jones, Chris (1976). Climbing in North America. Berkeley, California, USA: American Alpine Club/University of California Press. pp. 330, 331. ISBN 0-520-02976-3.
  3. ^ a b "End of Rescue Attempts on Mont Blanc". Retrieved 18 April 2020.
  4. ^ "60 years of Chamonix PGHM". chamonix.net. Retrieved 18 April 2020.
  5. ^ Terray, Lionel (2001). Conquistadors of the Useless. Gollancz. p. 369. ISBN 1-898573-38-7.
  6. ^ Lionel Terray; David Roberts (2008). Conquistadors of the Useless. Mountaineers Books.
  7. ^ . altamontanha.com (in French). April 14, 2009. Archived from the original on 2012-04-18.

January 28, 2023
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This article needs additional citations for verification Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources Unsourced material may be challenged and removed Find sources Lionel Terray news newspapers books scholar JSTOR April 2014 Learn how and when to remove this template message Lionel Terray 25 July 1921 19 September 1965 was a French climber who made many first ascents including on the 1955 French Makalu expedition in the Himalaya with Jean Couzy on 15 May 1955 and Cerro Fitz Roy in the Patagonian Andes with Guido Magnone in 1952 Terray s grave in Chamonix A climbing guide and ski instructor Terray was active in mountain combat against Germany during World War II After the war he became well known as one of the best Chamonix climbers and guides noted for his speedy ascents of some of the most notorious climbs in the French Italian and Swiss Alps the Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses the south face of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey the north east face of Piz Badile and the north face of the Eiger Terray frequently with climbing partner Louis Lachenal broke previous climbing speed records Terray was a member of Maurice Herzog s 1950 expedition to the Nepalese Himalayan peak Annapurna the highest peak climbed at the time and the first 8000 meter peak climbed although British climbers George Mallory Andrew Irvine George Finch Geoffrey Bruce Henry Morshead Teddy Norton and Howard Somervell had reached higher altitudes on Mount Everest during the 1920s Terray did not reach the summit of Annapurna but together with the Sherpa Adjiba he aided summiteers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal down from the mountain Both Herzog and Lachenal experienced extreme frostbite and subsequently underwent amputations 1 Despite these events the French team returned to Paris to huge public acclaim and Herzog s expedition book Annapurna became an international bestseller Terray made the second ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in 1947 with Louis Lachenal He was also one of the main participants in the great attempt to rescue four climbers trapped on the north face of the Eiger in 1957 This mission forms the subject of Jack Olsen s 1962 book The Climb Up To Hell in which Terray s skill and bravery receive special mention In the late 1950s and early 1960s Terray made a number of first ascents in Peru including the highest unclimbed peak in the central Andes at the time 6 395 metre 20 981 ft Huantsan He also made first ascents of lower but more difficult peaks including Willka Wiqi Soray Tawllirahu and Chakrarahu Chacraraju possibly the hardest peak in the Peruvian Andes and considered unclimbable at the time One of Terray s finest achievements was the first ascent of 7 710 metre 25 295 ft Jannu in Nepal in 1962 He also climbed the Nilgiris near Annapurna and led the successful 1964 first ascent of 3 730 metre 12 240 ft Mount Huntington in the Alaska Range by the northwest ridge 2 Terray organised a rescue attempt of two climbers stranded on Mont Blanc in December 1956 For this he was expelled from the Chamonix Guide s Association which had refused to participate in the rescue from the start on the grounds that the risk to the rescuers would be too great 3 Due to the fact that no other guides would accompany him Terray set out a small team of amateurs They were turned back on 1 January 1957 either by poor weather 3 or on the understanding that a helicopter would attempt a rescue the following day 4 Terray was highly critical of the Chamonix Guide Association s inaction when the alarm had first been raised 5 Terray died how on a rock climb in the Vercors south of Grenoble on 19 September 1965 several years after the publication of his climbing memoir Conquistadors of the Useless There were rumors that Terray was functionally illiterate and the book was ghost written however in a Foreword written by author and climber David Roberts to an English edition he confirms he found the original manuscript written in Terray s hand which is word for word what was published dispelling any notion that Terray did not write the book entirely himself 6 His grave is situated in Chamonix France A traffic circle is named for him in Chamonix WSW of town Principal expeditions EditPrincipal expeditions 7 1942 First ascent of the west side of Aiguille Purtcheller 1944 First to the east northeast spur of the Pan de Sucre The first on the north face of the Aiguille des Pelerins and the north of the Peuterey lap clarification needed with Maurice Herzog 1946 Spur north of the Droites with Louis Lachenal in eight hours And the north face of Grandes Jorasses 1947 Third ascent of the north face of Aiguille Verte The second to climb the northern face of the Eiger with Lachenal 1950 Lionel Terray on the expedition to Annapurna the first 8000 m mountain successfully climbed Terray did not summit but played a rescue role 1952 First ascent of Fitz Roy 3 405m in Patagonia Climb to Aconcagua 6 960m 1954 Reconnoiter of Makalu in Tibet First ascents of subsidiary summits Kangchungtse and Chomo Lonzo 7 804m 1955 Expedition to Makalu first summit 8 845m with Jean Couzy 1956 In Peru Nevado Chacraraju 6 110m and Taulliraju 5 830m 1959 Expedition to Jannu 7 710 m stopping at 7 400 m In 1962 under Terray s direction success 1962 First ascent of 7 710 metre 25 295 ft Jannu in Nepal 1964 In the Alaskan range first ascent of Mount Huntington 3 731m Bibliography EditTerray Lionel 1961 Les Conquerants de l inutile France Gallimard ASIN B000HJRAVQ Terray Lionel 2000 Conquistadors of the Useless Translated by Geoffrey Sutton Baton Wicks Publications New Ed ISBN 1 898573 38 7 Terray Lionel Franco Jean 1965 Bataille pour Le Jannu France Gallimard ISBN 2 07 010203 3 References Edit Herzog Maurice 1997 Annapurna New York NY USA The Lyons Press ISBN 1 55821 549 2 Jones Chris 1976 Climbing in North America Berkeley California USA American Alpine Club University of California Press pp 330 331 ISBN 0 520 02976 3 a b End of Rescue Attempts on Mont Blanc Retrieved 18 April 2020 60 years of Chamonix PGHM chamonix net Retrieved 18 April 2020 Terray Lionel 2001 Conquistadors of the Useless Gollancz p 369 ISBN 1 898573 38 7 Lionel Terray David Roberts 2008 Conquistadors of the Useless Mountaineers Books Lionel Terray o conquistador do inutil altamontanha com in French April 14 2009 Archived from the original on 2012 04 18 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Lionel Terray amp oldid 1107002212, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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