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1900s in Western fashion

Fashion in the period 1900–1909 in the Western world continued the severe, long and elegant lines of the late 1890s. Tall, stiff collars characterize the period, as do women's broad hats and full "Gibson Girl" hairstyles. A new, columnar silhouette introduced by the couturiers of Paris late in the decade signaled the approaching abandonment of the corset as an indispensable garment.

1890s . 1900s in Western fashion . 1910s
Other topics: Anthropology . Comics . Sociology

Fashionable Londoners in front of Harrods, 1909. The trailing skirts which were very tight showing skin and broad-brimmed hats of mid-decade narrower dresses and hats with deep crowns. Men wear top hats with formal morning dress or bowlers with lounge suits.

Women's fashion Edit

General overview Edit

 
Young women adopted the tall, stiff collars and narrow neckties worn by men
(advertisement for Arrow shirt collars)
 
John Singer Sargent's portrait of Miss Eden shows a fashionable full breast, low neckline, and mass of hair, 1905.

With the decline of the bustle, sleeves began to increase in size and the 1830s silhouette of an hourglass shape became popular again. The fashionable silhouette in the early 20th century was that of a confident woman, with full low chest and curvy hips. The "health corset" of this period removed pressure from the abdomen and created an S-curve silhouette.[1]

Since 1897, the silhouette slimmed and elongated by a considerable amount. Blouses and dresses were full in front and puffed into a "pigeon breast" shape of the early 20th century that looked over the narrow waist, which sloped from back to front and was often accented with a sash or belt. Necklines were supported by very high boned collars.[2]

Skirts brushed the floor, often with a train, even for day dresses, in mid-decade. The fashion houses of Paris began to show a new silhouette, with a thicker waist, flatter bust, and narrower hips. By the end of the decade the most fashionable skirts cleared the floor and approached the ankle. The overall silhouette narrowed and straightened, beginning a trend that would continue into the years leading up to the Great War.

In early 1910, a survey of wealthy high school senior students at a private New York City girls' school found that each spent an average of $556 ($17,462 as of 2017[3]) annually for clothing excluding undergarments, and would have spent four times that amount with an unlimited budget.[4]

Sportswear and tailored fashions Edit

Women moving out of the Victorian era and into the Edwardian era were starting to dress for a more active lifestyle. The evolving times brought a new fashion trend known as the "New Woman". Active lives required less constricting clothing and required simpler and more streamlined clothing. The new woman was highly encouraged by women's suffrage. Women that identified with this fashion movement were the type of women that were beginning to venture out of maintaining the domestic circle and begin to pursue higher education, office jobs, and participating in active outdoor sports. The new and improved fashions allowed for women to swing a tennis racket, whack a golf ball, but the ideas of "proper" feminine attire reduced the progress of more practical sportswear.

Tailored suits became more popular for the women that were beginning to work in white collar jobs. Tailored suits with no frills allowed for women maintaining an office job to seem more masculine and blend into the male dominated environment. Shortly the number of women attending colleges increased, and the shirtwaist became popular among the average college girl. The outfit worn by the typical college girl was a skirt that was usually shorter than current fashion, and a shirtwaist, which is best described as the equivalent of jeans and a T-shirt today.[5][6]

 
Paul Poiret's new silhouette of 1908 was a radical departure.
 
Evelyn Nesbit, in this photograph taken in 1901, has some of her wavy hair swept up to the top of her head, with the rest of her hair flowing past her shoulders in curling tendrils.

Unfussy, tailored clothes were worn for outdoor activities and traveling. The shirtwaist, a costume with a bodice or waist tailored like a man's shirt with a high collar, was adopted for informal daywear and became the uniform of working women. Wool or tweed suit (clothing) called tailor-mades or (in French) tailleurs featured ankle-length skirts with matching jackets; ladies of fashion wore them with fox furs and huge hats. Two new styles of headgear which became popular at the turn of the century were the motoring veil for driving and sailor hats worn for tennis matches, bicycling and croquet.[7]

Rise of haute couture Edit

This decade marked the full flowering of Parisian haute couture as the arbiter of styles and silhouettes for women of all classes. Designers sent fashion models or mannequins to the Longchamp races wearing the latest styles,[8] and fashion photographs identified the creators of individual gowns.[9] In 1908, a new silhouette emerged from Callot Soeurs, Vionnet at the house of Doucet, and most importantly, Paul Poiret.[10] The styles were variously called Merveilleuse, Directoire, and Empire after the fashions of the turn of the nineteenth century, which they resembled in their narrow skirts and raised waistlines.

The new styles featured form-fitting gowns with high or undefined waists, or ankle-length skirts and long tunic-like jackets, and required a different "straight line" corset. The Paris correspondent for Vogue described this new look as "straighter and straighter ... less bust, less hips, and more waist...how slim, how graceful, how elegant...!"[11]

Hats Edit

 
Broad-brimmed hat with stuffed blue bird, ca 1908.

Huge, broad-brimmed hats were worn in mid-decade, trimmed with masses of feathers and occasionally complete stuffed birds (hummingbirds for those who could afford them), or decorated with ribbons and artificial flowers. Masses of wavy hair were fashionable, swept up to the top of the head (if necessary, over horsehair pads called "rats") and gathered into a knot.[12] Large hats were worn with evening wear.

By the end of the decade, hats had smaller drooping brims that shaded the face and deep crowns, and the overall top-heavy effect remained.

Footwear Edit

Shoes were narrow and often emphasized. They had a pointed toe and a medium height heel. Buttons, patent leather, and laced models of the shoe were also manufactured and readily available. Similarly, there were shoes for every occasion; oxfords for a tailored costume, slippers with straps for festive occasions or pumps with pearl buckles, and finally, boots which were often edged in fur to stave off the winter chill when riding in a carriage in the winter.[13] At the beginning of 1900s shoes still maintained the same design of the Victorian era. Shoes were commonly made with seal skin or Moroccan leather. Having boots made of seal skin was most common for people in a higher social class. Seal skin boots were known to be extremely durable and could be worn during every season. Boots made from Moroccan leather were more uncomfortable and stiff. World War I caused this opulent era to tone down due to the increased sanctions on the trade of leather and other fabrics, and shoes were starting to incorporate a fabric topping.[6]

Style gallery 1900–1906 Edit

 
Cartoon in Punch (1911) compares changes in fashion between 1901 and 1911. "The dowdy voluminous clothes of the earlier date, making the grandmother an old lady and the mother seem plain, had been replaced by much simpler looser wear producing a sense of release for all three females."[14]
  1. Mrs. Charles Russell wears a sheer patterned dress with fullness at the front waist over a soft sash. This dress might have been called a tea gown at this time (1900).
  2. Fashion illustration for Summer 1901 shows sloped waistline, "pouter pigeon" front bodices, high necklines and large hats with ribbons.
  3. Photograph of three sisters c. 1902 illustrates the "pouter pigeon" blouse or shirtwaist and trumpet-skirt that was a mainstay of middle-class clothing.
  4. Underwear (camisole (or, more likely, top half of combinations), corset, and trumpet-shaped petticoat) of 1903–04.
  5. Fashion plate shows the frothy trained afternoon dress descended from the tea gown, worn with an oversized hat and gloves, 1904.
  6. Elizabeth Wharton Drexel wears an off-the-shoulder orange gown with long gloves, 1905.
  7. Mrs. John Philip Sousa wears a checked suit with elbow-length sleeves and long gloves, and carries a muff purse, c. 1905.
  8. French dress of 1906 is trimmed with embroidery or passementerie. The wide-brimmed hat is cocked up on one side. Elbow-length sleeves are worn with gloves.
  9. Summer evening fashions of 1906 have short or three-quarter-length sleeves. Some ladies wear hats, and the gentlemen wear dinner jackets.

Style gallery 1907–1909 Edit

  1. Working-class women during the Tenant's Strike of 1907 in Buenos Aires.
  2. Golfing costume of 1907 features a tailored jacket and matching ankle-length skirt with patch pockets.
  3. Motoring required voluminous coats or dusters to keep clothes clean and wearers warm in open automobiles. They were worn with fashionable hats wrapped in veils, gloves, and often goggles, 1907.
  4. 1908 portrait by Paul Helleu captures the fashionable combination of masses of wavy hair beneath a broad-brimmed hat.
  5. Dresses by Paul Poiret point the way to a new silhouette, with a high waist and narrow, ankle-length skirts, 1908.
  6. Newspaper insert of fashions for 1908 shows dresses of a more conservative cut than the latest Paris modes, but waists are higher and the figure slimmer and more erect than in the first half of the decade.
  7. Bib-front apron with pouter-pigeon cut, 1909.
  8. High-fashion costume of 1909 has a narrower silhouette. The bodice fits closer to the body, although the waist still slopes, and the hat has a deep crown.
  9. Dresses of 1909 show the new fitted, higher-waisted silhouette and are worn with huge hats.
  10. Gullick family ca 1909.

Men's fashion Edit

 
Hugo Reisinger wears a dark suit with a white waistcoat and dotted necktie. He carries the fashionable Homburg hat, 1907, painting by Anders Zorn, 1907

The long, lean, and athletic silhouette of the 1890s persisted. Hair was generally worn short. Beards were less pointed than before and moustaches were often curled.

Coats, waistcoats and trousers Edit

The sack coat or lounge coat continued to replace the frock coat for most informal and semi-formal occasions. Three-piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat (U.S. vest) and trousers were worn, as were matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers, or matching coat and trousers with contrasting waistcoat. Trousers were shorter than before, often had turn-ups or cuffs, and were creased front and back using the new trouser press.[15]

Waistcoats fastened high on the chest. The usual style was single-breasted.

The blazer, a navy blue or brightly colored or striped flannel coat cut like a sack coat with patch pockets and brass buttons, was worn for sports, sailing, and other casual activities.

The Norfolk jacket remained fashionable for shooting and rugged outdoor pursuits. It was made of sturdy tweed or similar fabric and featured paired box pleats over the chest and back, with a fabric belt. Worn with matching breeches or (U.S. knickerbockers), it became the Norfolk suit, suitable for bicycling or golf with knee-length stockings and low shoes, or for hunting with sturdy boots or shoes with leather gaiters.

The cutaway morning coat was still worn for formal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere, with striped trousers.

The most formal evening clothes remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark or light waistcoat. Evening wear was worn with a white bow tie and a shirt with a winged collar. The less formal dinner jacket or tuxedo, which featured a shawl collar with silk or satin facings, now generally had a single button. Dinner jackets were appropriate formal wear when "dressing for dinner" at home or at a men's club. The dinner jacket was worn with a white shirt and a dark tie.

Knee-length topcoats and calf-length overcoats were worn in winter.

Shirts and neckties Edit

Formal dress shirt collars were turned over or pressed into "wings". Collars were overall very tall and stiffened. Dress shirts had stiff fronts, sometimes decorated with shirt studs and buttoned up the back. Striped shirts were popular for informal occasions.

The usual necktie was a narrow four-in-hand. Ascot ties were worn with formal day dress and white bow ties with evening dress.

Accessories Edit

Top hats remained a requirement for upper class formal wear; soft felt Homburgs or stiff bowler hats were worn with lounge or sack suits, and flat straw boaters were worn for casual occasions.

Shoes for men were mostly over the ankle. Toe cap, lace up boots in black, gray, or brown were the most common for everyday wear. Formal occasions called for formal boots with white uppers (spat style) and buttons on the side. In the Edwardian times basic lace up oxford shoes were introduced.

Style gallery 1901−1905 Edit

  1. Antoni Wodzicki wears a fur-collared overcoat and a Homburg, 1900.
  2. Fashion illustration of a topcoat (left, worn with a top hat and morning dress) and overcoat (right, worn with business dress and Homburg), December 1900.
  3. Fashion plate from the Sartorial Arts Journal shows a three-button suite with patch pockets (left) and a golfing costume consisting of a Norfolk jacket and knickerbockers (right), 1901.
  4. Staffmembers of the Tuskegee Institute wear coats with high front openings and contrasting trousers, many striped, c. 1902.
  5. Portrait of Theodore Roosevelt by John Singer Sargent in a formal frock coat, 1903.
  6. Caricature of a fitting at Charvet in 1903.
  7. Portrait of Theodore Roosevelt in a vividly patterned tie, light waistcoat, and dark coat, 1904. The very short hairstyle is typical of the period.
  8. Formal frock coat, 1904.
  9. Two Irishmen in San Francisco wearing bowler hats, 1905.

Style gallery 1906-1909 Edit

  1. Men's formal daywear consists of a cutaway morning coat, high-buttoned waistcoat, and creased fly-front trousers worn with a high-collared shirt, top hat, and gloves, 1906.
  2. Photo William Randolph Hearst wears a coat with a very high closure, a stiff collar, and a tie with a stickpin, 1906.
  3. John Singer Sargent wears a gray formal coat and a winged-collar shirt, 1907.
  4. Wilfrid Laurier, the Prime Minister of Canada and his wife, 1907
  5. Photo of William Howard Taft in a three-piece suit, c. 1907.
  6. British formal dress: David Lloyd George (left) and Winston Churchill wear frock coats and top hats, 1907.
  7. Irish immigrants in Kansas City, Missouri, 1909. The man second from the left is wearing a flat cap.

Children's fashion Edit

Girls' fashion for this time period imitated older women of the same period. Girls wore dresses of knee length, with trimmings at the hem such as lace and embroidery similar to women's lingerie dresses. Normally, black shoes or button up / lace up boots and woolen stockings went with the dress as well as kidskin or crochet gloves. Their hair was generally worn long and curly with decorations of ribbon. For play, bloomers and woolen jerseys were acceptable.[16]

A new attempt was made to design garments that are more suitable for playing by designing girls' dresses with short sleeves.[17] Outside, button up boots would have been worn or lace up boots also shoes with spats would have been worn in the winter spats worn over shoes created the look of wearing a long boot. Kid leather gloves would have been worn to cover the hands or lace gloves in the summer. Bonnets were being replaced by hats by the end of the Victorian era so girls would have worn a hat when out.

Young boys found comfort in Russian style blouses.[17]

Fashionable clothing for boys included sailor suits, consisting of a shirt with a sailor collar and trousers or knickerbockers. For automobiling, boys wore a duster with knickerbockers, a flat cap, and goggles.[18]

Working clothes Edit

See also Edit

Notes Edit

  1. ^ Laver, James: The Concise History of Costume and Fashion, Abrams, 1979
  2. ^ Vintagefashionguild.org
  3. ^ 1634–1699: McCusker, J. J. (1997). How Much Is That in Real Money? A Historical Price Index for Use as a Deflator of Money Values in the Economy of the United States: Addenda et Corrigenda (PDF). American Antiquarian Society. 1700–1799: McCusker, J. J. (1992). How Much Is That in Real Money? A Historical Price Index for Use as a Deflator of Money Values in the Economy of the United States (PDF). American Antiquarian Society. 1800–present: Federal Reserve Bank of Minneapolis. "Consumer Price Index (estimate) 1800–". Retrieved 28 May 2023.
  4. ^ Weed, Inis H. (24 April 1910). "What It Costs A Young Girl To Be Well Dressed". The New York Times. Retrieved 26 January 2011.
  5. ^ Evolution of Women's Fashion During the Progressive Era Examined in DAR Museum Exhibition. (16 July 2014). Retrieved 17 April 2017
  6. ^ a b Tierney, T. (2017). Appropriation, articulation and authentication in acid house: The evolution of women's fashion throughout the early years of the acid house culture. Fashion, Style, & Popular Culture, 4(2), 179. doi:10.1386/fspc.4.2.179_1
  7. ^ Fashion in History
  8. ^ Laver: Concise History of Costume and Fashion
  9. ^ Steele, Valerie: Paris Fashion: A Cultural History, Oxford University Press, 1988, ISBN 0-19-504465-7
  10. ^ Steele, Valerie: The Corset, Yale University Press, 2001
  11. ^ Quoted in Steele, The Corset', p. 146
  12. ^ Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress.
  13. ^ Payne, Blanche: History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century, Harper & Row, 1965. No ISBN for this edition; ASIN B0006BMNFS
  14. ^ Donald Read, Edwardian England 1901-15: society and politics (1972) pp. 257–58.
  15. ^ Laver, Concise History of Costume and Fashion
  16. ^ Stevenson, Pauline. Edwardian Fashion. London: Ian Allan LTD., 1980.
  17. ^ a b "Children's Costume History 1900–1910" 2 May 2008 at the Wayback Machine Fashion-era.com. 28 April 2008
  18. ^ Children's Fashions, 1860–1912: 1065 Costume Designs from "La Mode Illustrée". New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1994.

References Edit

  • Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction C.1860–1940, Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition, Drama Books 1977. ISBN 0-89676-027-8
  • Ashelford, Jane: The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914, Abrams, 1996. ISBN 0-8109-6317-5
  • Laver, James: The Concise History of Costume and Fashion, Abrams, 1979.
  • Nunn, Joan: Fashion in Costume, 1200–2000, 2nd edition, A & C Black (Publishers) Ltd; Chicago: New Amsterdam Books, 2000. (Excerpts online at The Victorian Web)
  • Steele, Valerie: Paris Fashion: A Cultural History, Oxford University Press, 1988, ISBN 0-19-504465-7
  • Steele, Valerie: The Corset, Yale University Press, 2001

External links Edit

  •   Media related to 1900s fashion at Wikimedia Commons
  • . Fashion, Jewellery & Accessories. Victoria and Albert Museum. Archived from the original on 19 November 2010. Retrieved 3 April 2011.
  • 1900s Fashion Plates of men, women, and children's fashion from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries
  • 1900s era Henri Bendel Fashion Sketch Collection at the Brooklyn Museum

Surviving clothing Edit

  • 1900-1910 Fashions in the Staten Island Historical Society Online Collections Database

1900s, western, fashion, fashion, period, 1900, 1909, western, world, continued, severe, long, elegant, lines, late, 1890s, tall, stiff, collars, characterize, period, women, broad, hats, full, gibson, girl, hairstyles, columnar, silhouette, introduced, coutur. Fashion in the period 1900 1909 in the Western world continued the severe long and elegant lines of the late 1890s Tall stiff collars characterize the period as do women s broad hats and full Gibson Girl hairstyles A new columnar silhouette introduced by the couturiers of Paris late in the decade signaled the approaching abandonment of the corset as an indispensable garment 1890s 1900s in Western fashion 1910sOther topics Anthropology Comics Sociology Fashionable Londoners in front of Harrods 1909 The trailing skirts which were very tight showing skin and broad brimmed hats of mid decade narrower dresses and hats with deep crowns Men wear top hats with formal morning dress or bowlers with lounge suits Contents 1 Women s fashion 1 1 General overview 1 2 Sportswear and tailored fashions 1 3 Rise of haute couture 1 4 Hats 1 5 Footwear 1 6 Style gallery 1900 1906 1 7 Style gallery 1907 1909 2 Men s fashion 2 1 Coats waistcoats and trousers 2 2 Shirts and neckties 2 3 Accessories 2 4 Style gallery 1901 1905 2 5 Style gallery 1906 1909 3 Children s fashion 4 Working clothes 5 See also 6 Notes 7 References 8 External links 8 1 Surviving clothingWomen s fashion EditGeneral overview Edit nbsp Young women adopted the tall stiff collars and narrow neckties worn by men advertisement for Arrow shirt collars nbsp John Singer Sargent s portrait of Miss Eden shows a fashionable full breast low neckline and mass of hair 1905 With the decline of the bustle sleeves began to increase in size and the 1830s silhouette of an hourglass shape became popular again The fashionable silhouette in the early 20th century was that of a confident woman with full low chest and curvy hips The health corset of this period removed pressure from the abdomen and created an S curve silhouette 1 Since 1897 the silhouette slimmed and elongated by a considerable amount Blouses and dresses were full in front and puffed into a pigeon breast shape of the early 20th century that looked over the narrow waist which sloped from back to front and was often accented with a sash or belt Necklines were supported by very high boned collars 2 Skirts brushed the floor often with a train even for day dresses in mid decade The fashion houses of Paris began to show a new silhouette with a thicker waist flatter bust and narrower hips By the end of the decade the most fashionable skirts cleared the floor and approached the ankle The overall silhouette narrowed and straightened beginning a trend that would continue into the years leading up to the Great War In early 1910 a survey of wealthy high school senior students at a private New York City girls school found that each spent an average of 556 17 462 as of 2017 update 3 annually for clothing excluding undergarments and would have spent four times that amount with an unlimited budget 4 Sportswear and tailored fashions Edit Women moving out of the Victorian era and into the Edwardian era were starting to dress for a more active lifestyle The evolving times brought a new fashion trend known as the New Woman Active lives required less constricting clothing and required simpler and more streamlined clothing The new woman was highly encouraged by women s suffrage Women that identified with this fashion movement were the type of women that were beginning to venture out of maintaining the domestic circle and begin to pursue higher education office jobs and participating in active outdoor sports The new and improved fashions allowed for women to swing a tennis racket whack a golf ball but the ideas of proper feminine attire reduced the progress of more practical sportswear Tailored suits became more popular for the women that were beginning to work in white collar jobs Tailored suits with no frills allowed for women maintaining an office job to seem more masculine and blend into the male dominated environment Shortly the number of women attending colleges increased and the shirtwaist became popular among the average college girl The outfit worn by the typical college girl was a skirt that was usually shorter than current fashion and a shirtwaist which is best described as the equivalent of jeans and a T shirt today 5 6 nbsp Paul Poiret s new silhouette of 1908 was a radical departure nbsp Evelyn Nesbit in this photograph taken in 1901 has some of her wavy hair swept up to the top of her head with the rest of her hair flowing past her shoulders in curling tendrils Unfussy tailored clothes were worn for outdoor activities and traveling The shirtwaist a costume with a bodice or waist tailored like a man s shirt with a high collar was adopted for informal daywear and became the uniform of working women Wool or tweed suit clothing called tailor mades or in French tailleurs featured ankle length skirts with matching jackets ladies of fashion wore them with fox furs and huge hats Two new styles of headgear which became popular at the turn of the century were the motoring veil for driving and sailor hats worn for tennis matches bicycling and croquet 7 Rise of haute couture Edit See also History of fashion design 1900s This decade marked the full flowering of Parisian haute couture as the arbiter of styles and silhouettes for women of all classes Designers sent fashion models or mannequins to the Longchamp races wearing the latest styles 8 and fashion photographs identified the creators of individual gowns 9 In 1908 a new silhouette emerged from Callot Soeurs Vionnet at the house of Doucet and most importantly Paul Poiret 10 The styles were variously called Merveilleuse Directoire and Empire after the fashions of the turn of the nineteenth century which they resembled in their narrow skirts and raised waistlines The new styles featured form fitting gowns with high or undefined waists or ankle length skirts and long tunic like jackets and required a different straight line corset The Paris correspondent for Vogue described this new look as straighter and straighter less bust less hips and more waist how slim how graceful how elegant 11 Hats Edit nbsp Broad brimmed hat with stuffed blue bird ca 1908 Huge broad brimmed hats were worn in mid decade trimmed with masses of feathers and occasionally complete stuffed birds hummingbirds for those who could afford them or decorated with ribbons and artificial flowers Masses of wavy hair were fashionable swept up to the top of the head if necessary over horsehair pads called rats and gathered into a knot 12 Large hats were worn with evening wear By the end of the decade hats had smaller drooping brims that shaded the face and deep crowns and the overall top heavy effect remained Footwear Edit Shoes were narrow and often emphasized They had a pointed toe and a medium height heel Buttons patent leather and laced models of the shoe were also manufactured and readily available Similarly there were shoes for every occasion oxfords for a tailored costume slippers with straps for festive occasions or pumps with pearl buckles and finally boots which were often edged in fur to stave off the winter chill when riding in a carriage in the winter 13 At the beginning of 1900s shoes still maintained the same design of the Victorian era Shoes were commonly made with seal skin or Moroccan leather Having boots made of seal skin was most common for people in a higher social class Seal skin boots were known to be extremely durable and could be worn during every season Boots made from Moroccan leather were more uncomfortable and stiff World War I caused this opulent era to tone down due to the increased sanctions on the trade of leather and other fabrics and shoes were starting to incorporate a fabric topping 6 Style gallery 1900 1906 Edit nbsp 1 1900 nbsp 2 1901 nbsp 3 1902 nbsp 4 1903 04 nbsp 5 1904 nbsp 6 1905 nbsp 7 c 1905 nbsp 8 1906 nbsp 9 1906 nbsp Cartoon in Punch 1911 compares changes in fashion between 1901 and 1911 The dowdy voluminous clothes of the earlier date making the grandmother an old lady and the mother seem plain had been replaced by much simpler looser wear producing a sense of release for all three females 14 Mrs Charles Russell wears a sheer patterned dress with fullness at the front waist over a soft sash This dress might have been called a tea gown at this time 1900 Fashion illustration for Summer 1901 shows sloped waistline pouter pigeon front bodices high necklines and large hats with ribbons Photograph of three sisters c 1902 illustrates the pouter pigeon blouse or shirtwaist and trumpet skirt that was a mainstay of middle class clothing Underwear camisole or more likely top half of combinations corset and trumpet shaped petticoat of 1903 04 Fashion plate shows the frothy trained afternoon dress descended from the tea gown worn with an oversized hat and gloves 1904 Elizabeth Wharton Drexel wears an off the shoulder orange gown with long gloves 1905 Mrs John Philip Sousa wears a checked suit with elbow length sleeves and long gloves and carries a muff purse c 1905 French dress of 1906 is trimmed with embroidery or passementerie The wide brimmed hat is cocked up on one side Elbow length sleeves are worn with gloves Summer evening fashions of 1906 have short or three quarter length sleeves Some ladies wear hats and the gentlemen wear dinner jackets Style gallery 1907 1909 Edit nbsp 1 1907 nbsp 2 1907 nbsp 3 1907 nbsp 4 1908 nbsp 5 1908 nbsp 6 1908 nbsp 7 1909 nbsp 8 1909 nbsp 9 1909 nbsp 10 ca 1909Working class women during the Tenant s Strike of 1907 in Buenos Aires Golfing costume of 1907 features a tailored jacket and matching ankle length skirt with patch pockets Motoring required voluminous coats or dusters to keep clothes clean and wearers warm in open automobiles They were worn with fashionable hats wrapped in veils gloves and often goggles 1907 1908 portrait by Paul Helleu captures the fashionable combination of masses of wavy hair beneath a broad brimmed hat Dresses by Paul Poiret point the way to a new silhouette with a high waist and narrow ankle length skirts 1908 Newspaper insert of fashions for 1908 shows dresses of a more conservative cut than the latest Paris modes but waists are higher and the figure slimmer and more erect than in the first half of the decade Bib front apron with pouter pigeon cut 1909 High fashion costume of 1909 has a narrower silhouette The bodice fits closer to the body although the waist still slopes and the hat has a deep crown Dresses of 1909 show the new fitted higher waisted silhouette and are worn with huge hats Gullick family ca 1909 Men s fashion Edit nbsp Hugo Reisinger wears a dark suit with a white waistcoat and dotted necktie He carries the fashionable Homburg hat 1907 painting by Anders Zorn 1907The long lean and athletic silhouette of the 1890s persisted Hair was generally worn short Beards were less pointed than before and moustaches were often curled Coats waistcoats and trousers Edit The sack coat or lounge coat continued to replace the frock coat for most informal and semi formal occasions Three piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat U S vest and trousers were worn as were matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers or matching coat and trousers with contrasting waistcoat Trousers were shorter than before often had turn ups or cuffs and were creased front and back using the new trouser press 15 Waistcoats fastened high on the chest The usual style was single breasted The blazer a navy blue or brightly colored or striped flannel coat cut like a sack coat with patch pockets and brass buttons was worn for sports sailing and other casual activities The Norfolk jacket remained fashionable for shooting and rugged outdoor pursuits It was made of sturdy tweed or similar fabric and featured paired box pleats over the chest and back with a fabric belt Worn with matching breeches or U S knickerbockers it became the Norfolk suit suitable for bicycling or golf with knee length stockings and low shoes or for hunting with sturdy boots or shoes with leather gaiters The cutaway morning coat was still worn for formal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere with striped trousers The most formal evening clothes remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark or light waistcoat Evening wear was worn with a white bow tie and a shirt with a winged collar The less formal dinner jacket or tuxedo which featured a shawl collar with silk or satin facings now generally had a single button Dinner jackets were appropriate formal wear when dressing for dinner at home or at a men s club The dinner jacket was worn with a white shirt and a dark tie Knee length topcoats and calf length overcoats were worn in winter Shirts and neckties Edit Formal dress shirt collars were turned over or pressed into wings Collars were overall very tall and stiffened Dress shirts had stiff fronts sometimes decorated with shirt studs and buttoned up the back Striped shirts were popular for informal occasions The usual necktie was a narrow four in hand Ascot ties were worn with formal day dress and white bow ties with evening dress Accessories Edit Top hats remained a requirement for upper class formal wear soft felt Homburgs or stiff bowler hats were worn with lounge or sack suits and flat straw boaters were worn for casual occasions Shoes for men were mostly over the ankle Toe cap lace up boots in black gray or brown were the most common for everyday wear Formal occasions called for formal boots with white uppers spat style and buttons on the side In the Edwardian times basic lace up oxford shoes were introduced Style gallery 1901 1905 Edit nbsp 1 1900 nbsp 2 1900 nbsp 3 1901 nbsp 4 c 1902 nbsp 5 1903 nbsp 6 1903 nbsp 7 1904 nbsp 8 1904 nbsp 9 1905Antoni Wodzicki wears a fur collared overcoat and a Homburg 1900 Fashion illustration of a topcoat left worn with a top hat and morning dress and overcoat right worn with business dress and Homburg December 1900 Fashion plate from the Sartorial Arts Journal shows a three button suite with patch pockets left and a golfing costume consisting of a Norfolk jacket and knickerbockers right 1901 Staffmembers of the Tuskegee Institute wear coats with high front openings and contrasting trousers many striped c 1902 Portrait of Theodore Roosevelt by John Singer Sargent in a formal frock coat 1903 Caricature of a fitting at Charvet in 1903 Portrait of Theodore Roosevelt in a vividly patterned tie light waistcoat and dark coat 1904 The very short hairstyle is typical of the period Formal frock coat 1904 Two Irishmen in San Francisco wearing bowler hats 1905 Style gallery 1906 1909 Edit nbsp 1 1906 nbsp 2 1906 nbsp 3 1907 nbsp 4 1907 nbsp 5 c 1907 nbsp 6 1907 nbsp 7 1909Men s formal daywear consists of a cutaway morning coat high buttoned waistcoat and creased fly front trousers worn with a high collared shirt top hat and gloves 1906 Photo William Randolph Hearst wears a coat with a very high closure a stiff collar and a tie with a stickpin 1906 John Singer Sargent wears a gray formal coat and a winged collar shirt 1907 Wilfrid Laurier the Prime Minister of Canada and his wife 1907 Photo of William Howard Taft in a three piece suit c 1907 British formal dress David Lloyd George left and Winston Churchill wear frock coats and top hats 1907 Irish immigrants in Kansas City Missouri 1909 The man second from the left is wearing a flat cap Children s fashion EditGirls fashion for this time period imitated older women of the same period Girls wore dresses of knee length with trimmings at the hem such as lace and embroidery similar to women s lingerie dresses Normally black shoes or button up lace up boots and woolen stockings went with the dress as well as kidskin or crochet gloves Their hair was generally worn long and curly with decorations of ribbon For play bloomers and woolen jerseys were acceptable 16 A new attempt was made to design garments that are more suitable for playing by designing girls dresses with short sleeves 17 Outside button up boots would have been worn or lace up boots also shoes with spats would have been worn in the winter spats worn over shoes created the look of wearing a long boot Kid leather gloves would have been worn to cover the hands or lace gloves in the summer Bonnets were being replaced by hats by the end of the Victorian era so girls would have worn a hat when out Young boys found comfort in Russian style blouses 17 Fashionable clothing for boys included sailor suits consisting of a shirt with a sailor collar and trousers or knickerbockers For automobiling boys wore a duster with knickerbockers a flat cap and goggles 18 nbsp Even tiny girls were dressed in large hats 1900 nbsp Two French boys wearing knickerbockers 1900 nbsp Girls fashions for August 1901 nbsp Small boy in a sailor suit 1909 nbsp Olga Nikolaevna of Russia 1902 nbsp Olga Tatiana Maria and Anastasia Nikolaevna 1903 nbsp School children from the Rainy River District 1900s Working clothes Edit nbsp Aprons from a 1909 catalogue nbsp Housemaid ironing 1908 nbsp Woman in a kitchen in the Rainy River District c 1905 See also EditBelle Epoque Charvet Place Vendome Edwardian era History of fashion designNotes Edit Laver James The Concise History of Costume and Fashion Abrams 1979 Vintagefashionguild org 1634 1699 McCusker J J 1997 How Much Is That in Real Money A Historical Price Index for Use as a Deflator of Money Values in the Economy of the United States Addenda et Corrigenda PDF American Antiquarian Society 1700 1799 McCusker J J 1992 How Much Is That in Real Money A Historical Price Index for Use as a Deflator of Money Values in the Economy of the United States PDF American Antiquarian Society 1800 present Federal Reserve Bank of Minneapolis Consumer Price Index estimate 1800 Retrieved 28 May 2023 Weed Inis H 24 April 1910 What It Costs A Young Girl To Be Well Dressed The New York Times Retrieved 26 January 2011 Evolution of Women s Fashion During the Progressive Era Examined in DAR Museum Exhibition 16 July 2014 Retrieved 17 April 2017 a b Tierney T 2017 Appropriation articulation and authentication in acid house The evolution of women s fashion throughout the early years of the acid house culture Fashion Style amp Popular Culture 4 2 179 doi 10 1386 fspc 4 2 179 1 Fashion in History Laver Concise History of Costume and Fashion Steele Valerie Paris Fashion A Cultural History Oxford University Press 1988 ISBN 0 19 504465 7 Steele Valerie The Corset Yale University Press 2001 Quoted in Steele The Corset p 146 Ashelford Jane The Art of Dress Payne Blanche History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century Harper amp Row 1965 No ISBN for this edition ASIN B0006BMNFS Donald Read Edwardian England 1901 15 society and politics 1972 pp 257 58 Laver Concise History of Costume and Fashion Stevenson Pauline Edwardian Fashion London Ian Allan LTD 1980 a b Children s Costume History 1900 1910 Archived 2 May 2008 at the Wayback Machine Fashion era com 28 April 2008 Children s Fashions 1860 1912 1065 Costume Designs from La Mode Illustree New York Dover Publications Inc 1994 References EditArnold Janet Patterns of Fashion 2 Englishwomen s Dresses and Their Construction C 1860 1940 Wace 1966 Macmillan 1972 Revised metric edition Drama Books 1977 ISBN 0 89676 027 8 Ashelford Jane The Art of Dress Clothing and Society 1500 1914 Abrams 1996 ISBN 0 8109 6317 5 Laver James The Concise History of Costume and Fashion Abrams 1979 Nunn Joan Fashion in Costume 1200 2000 2nd edition A amp C Black Publishers Ltd Chicago New Amsterdam Books 2000 Excerpts online at The Victorian Web Steele Valerie Paris Fashion A Cultural History Oxford University Press 1988 ISBN 0 19 504465 7 Steele Valerie The Corset Yale University Press 2001External links Edit nbsp Media related to 1900s fashion at Wikimedia Commons 1900s 20th Century Fashion Drawing and Illustration Fashion Jewellery amp Accessories Victoria and Albert Museum Archived from the original on 19 November 2010 Retrieved 3 April 2011 1900s Fashion Plates of men women and children s fashion from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries 1900s era Henri Bendel Fashion Sketch Collection at the Brooklyn MuseumSurviving clothing Edit Lingerie dresses at Kent State University 1900 1910 Fashions in the Staten Island Historical Society Online Collections Database Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title 1900s in Western fashion amp oldid 1158499224, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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