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Flannel

Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of varying fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber. Flannel is commonly used to make tartan clothing, blankets, bed sheets, and sleepwear.

Flannel shirts are often plaid.

Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. Brushing is a mechanical process wherein a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fine fibres from the loosely spun yarns to form a nap on one or both sides. If the flannel is not napped, it gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn in its woven form.

The term "flannel shirt" is often mistakenly used to refer to any shirt with a plaid or tartan pattern. However, 'flannel' refers simply to the fabric; not all flannel shirts are plaid.

History Edit

The word's origin is uncertain, but a Welsh origin has been suggested as fabric similar to flannel can be traced back to Wales, where it was well known as early as the 16th century. The fabric was called ''Welsh cotton'', and despite its name, it was a coarse woolen material with a fluffed surface similar to flannel.[1][2]

The French term flanelle was used in the late 17th century, and the German Flanell was used in the early 18th century.[3]

Flannel has been made since the 17th century, gradually replacing the older Welsh plains, some of which were finished as "cottons" or friezes, coarse woolen cloth that was the local textile product. In the 19th century, flannel was made particularly in towns such as Newtown, Montgomeryshire,[4] Hay on Wye,[5] and Llanidloes.[6] The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread of carding mills, which prepared the wool for spinning, this being the first aspect of the production of woollen cloth to be mechanised (apart from fulling). The marketing of these Welsh woollen clothes was largely controlled by the Drapers Company of Shrewsbury.[7][8][9]

At one time, Welsh, Yorkshire, Lancashire, and Irish flannels differed slightly in character due largely to the grade of raw wool used in the several localities, some being softer and finer than others. Dyes determine the flannel's color; this was achieved by mixing white, blue, brown, and black wools in varying proportions. Lighter shades were achieved by bleaching with sulphur dioxide.[10]

 
Red Flannel Skirt, designed by Sybil Connolly in 1957

During the 1950s, Irish designer Sybil Connolly, inspired by Aran Island and traditional Irish peasant skirts, designed a 'Red Flannel' skirt using red flannel wool. [11]

Originally, flannel was made of fine, short staple wool, but by the 20th century, mixtures of silk and cotton had become common. At this time, flannel trousers became popular in sports, especially cricket, and it was used extensively until the late 1970s.

Flannel plaid shirts became popular teen wear in the early 1990s, being part of the grunge style of bands like Nirvana and Pearl Jam.

Types Edit

Flannelette typically refers to a napped cotton fabric imitating the texture of flannel. The weft is generally coarser than the warp. The flannel-like appearance is created by creating a nap from the weft; scratching it and raising it up. Flannelette can either have long or short nap, and can be napped on one or two sides. It comes in many colours, both solid and patterned.[12]

  • Baby flannel is a lightweight fabric used for childrenswear.[13]
  • Cotton flannel or Canton flannel is a cotton fabric napped on one or two sides.
  • Ceylon flannel was a name for a wool and cotton mixture.[10]
  • Diaper flannel is a stout cotton fabric napped on both sides, and used for making cloth diapers.
  • Vegetable flannel, invented by Léopold Lairitz in Germany in the 1800s, uses fibres from the Scots pine rather than wool.[14]

Weave Edit

Flannel, flannelette, and cotton flannel can be woven in either a twill weave or plain weave. The weave is often hidden by napping on one or both sides. After weaving, it is napped once, then bleached, dyed, or otherwise treated, and then napped a second time.[15]

See also Edit

References Edit

  1. ^ Montgomery, Florence M. (1984). Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth. Internet Archive. New York ; London : Norton. p. 373. ISBN 978-0-393-01703-8.
  2. ^ . Lexico Dictionaries | English. Archived from the original on August 6, 2020. Retrieved 2021-05-20.
  3. ^ Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Flannel" . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 10 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. pp. 480–481.
  4. ^ . Archived from the original on April 20, 2007.
  5. ^ "Clwyd-Powys Archaeological Trust - Projects - Historic Landscapes - Middle Wye - Administrative Landscapes". www.cpat.org.uk. from the original on 2022-08-18. Retrieved 2023-02-23.
  6. ^ "Llanidloes - the flannel industry". history.powys.org.uk. from the original on 2006-09-25. Retrieved 2007-02-20.
  7. ^ Dodd, A. H. (1931). Industrial Revolution in North Wales. pp. 229–81.
  8. ^ Jenkins, J. Geraint (1969). The Welsh Woollen Industry. Cardiff.
  9. ^ Jenkins, J. Geraint (1963). "The woollen industry in Montgomeryshire". Montgomeryshire Collections. Vol. 58. pp. 50–69.
  10. ^ a b The Concise Household Encyclopedia (c. 1935) The Amalgamated Press, London
  11. ^ "Clothes we still remember". Irish Times. from the original on 20 January 2022. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
  12. ^ Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Flannelette" . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 10 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 481.
  13. ^ Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. Lewandowski; [illustrations by Dan (2011). The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. p. 19. ISBN 9780810840041. from the original on 2023-02-23. Retrieved 2016-11-06.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  14. ^ "Vegetable Flannel". Frank Leslie's Pleasant Hours: 256. 1869.
  15. ^ Grosicki, Z (2014). Watson's Textile Design and Colour. Elsevier Science. p. 327. ISBN 9781782420088.

External links Edit

  •   Media related to Flannel at Wikimedia Commons

flannel, this, article, about, fabric, toiletry, item, washcloth, confused, with, plaid, fabric, soft, woven, fabric, varying, fineness, originally, made, from, carded, wool, worsted, yarn, often, made, from, either, wool, cotton, synthetic, fiber, commonly, u. This article is about the fabric For the toiletry item see Washcloth Not to be confused with a plaid fabric Flannel is a soft woven fabric of varying fineness Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn but is now often made from either wool cotton or synthetic fiber Flannel is commonly used to make tartan clothing blankets bed sheets and sleepwear Flannel shirts are often plaid Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed Brushing is a mechanical process wherein a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fine fibres from the loosely spun yarns to form a nap on one or both sides If the flannel is not napped it gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn in its woven form The term flannel shirt is often mistakenly used to refer to any shirt with a plaid or tartan pattern However flannel refers simply to the fabric not all flannel shirts are plaid Contents 1 History 2 Types 3 Weave 4 See also 5 References 6 External linksHistory EditThe word s origin is uncertain but a Welsh origin has been suggested as fabric similar to flannel can be traced back to Wales where it was well known as early as the 16th century The fabric was called Welsh cotton and despite its name it was a coarse woolen material with a fluffed surface similar to flannel 1 2 The French term flanelle was used in the late 17th century and the German Flanell was used in the early 18th century 3 Flannel has been made since the 17th century gradually replacing the older Welsh plains some of which were finished as cottons or friezes coarse woolen cloth that was the local textile product In the 19th century flannel was made particularly in towns such as Newtown Montgomeryshire 4 Hay on Wye 5 and Llanidloes 6 The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread of carding mills which prepared the wool for spinning this being the first aspect of the production of woollen cloth to be mechanised apart from fulling The marketing of these Welsh woollen clothes was largely controlled by the Drapers Company of Shrewsbury 7 8 9 At one time Welsh Yorkshire Lancashire and Irish flannels differed slightly in character due largely to the grade of raw wool used in the several localities some being softer and finer than others Dyes determine the flannel s color this was achieved by mixing white blue brown and black wools in varying proportions Lighter shades were achieved by bleaching with sulphur dioxide 10 nbsp Red Flannel Skirt designed by Sybil Connolly in 1957During the 1950s Irish designer Sybil Connolly inspired by Aran Island and traditional Irish peasant skirts designed a Red Flannel skirt using red flannel wool 11 Originally flannel was made of fine short staple wool but by the 20th century mixtures of silk and cotton had become common At this time flannel trousers became popular in sports especially cricket and it was used extensively until the late 1970s Flannel plaid shirts became popular teen wear in the early 1990s being part of the grunge style of bands like Nirvana and Pearl Jam Types EditFlannelette typically refers to a napped cotton fabric imitating the texture of flannel The weft is generally coarser than the warp The flannel like appearance is created by creating a nap from the weft scratching it and raising it up Flannelette can either have long or short nap and can be napped on one or two sides It comes in many colours both solid and patterned 12 Baby flannel is a lightweight fabric used for childrenswear 13 Cotton flannel or Canton flannel is a cotton fabric napped on one or two sides Ceylon flannel was a name for a wool and cotton mixture 10 Diaper flannel is a stout cotton fabric napped on both sides and used for making cloth diapers Vegetable flannel invented by Leopold Lairitz in Germany in the 1800s uses fibres from the Scots pine rather than wool 14 Weave EditFlannel flannelette and cotton flannel can be woven in either a twill weave or plain weave The weave is often hidden by napping on one or both sides After weaving it is napped once then bleached dyed or otherwise treated and then napped a second time 15 See also Edit nbsp Fashion portal nbsp 1990s portalArgyle pattern Check pattern Coldharbour Mill worsted flannel museum Madras cloth Sherpa fabric TartanReferences Edit Montgomery Florence M 1984 Textiles in America 1650 1870 a dictionary based on original documents prints and paintings commercial records American merchants papers shopkeepers advertisements and pattern books with original swatches of cloth Internet Archive New York London Norton p 373 ISBN 978 0 393 01703 8 WELSH COTTON Definition of WELSH COTTON by Oxford Dictionary on Lexico com also meaning of WELSH COTTON Lexico Dictionaries English Archived from the original on August 6 2020 Retrieved 2021 05 20 Chisholm Hugh ed 1911 Flannel Encyclopaedia Britannica Vol 10 11th ed Cambridge University Press pp 480 481 Newtown History Archived from the original on April 20 2007 Clwyd Powys Archaeological Trust Projects Historic Landscapes Middle Wye Administrative Landscapes www cpat org uk Archived from the original on 2022 08 18 Retrieved 2023 02 23 Llanidloes the flannel industry history powys org uk Archived from the original on 2006 09 25 Retrieved 2007 02 20 Dodd A H 1931 Industrial Revolution in North Wales pp 229 81 Jenkins J Geraint 1969 The Welsh Woollen Industry Cardiff Jenkins J Geraint 1963 The woollen industry in Montgomeryshire Montgomeryshire Collections Vol 58 pp 50 69 a b The Concise Household Encyclopedia c 1935 The Amalgamated Press London Clothes we still remember Irish Times Archived from the original on 20 January 2022 Retrieved 20 January 2022 Chisholm Hugh ed 1911 Flannelette Encyclopaedia Britannica Vol 10 11th ed Cambridge University Press p 481 Lewandowski Elizabeth J Lewandowski illustrations by Dan 2011 The complete costume dictionary Lanham Md Scarecrow Press Inc p 19 ISBN 9780810840041 Archived from the original on 2023 02 23 Retrieved 2016 11 06 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint multiple names authors list link Vegetable Flannel Frank Leslie s Pleasant Hours 256 1869 Grosicki Z 2014 Watson s Textile Design and Colour Elsevier Science p 327 ISBN 9781782420088 External links Edit nbsp Media related to Flannel at Wikimedia Commons Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Flannel amp oldid 1180384485, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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