Tadeusz Piotrowski (September 19, 1939 – July 10, 1986) was a Polish mountaineer and author of several books related to the subject. He has been referred to as "perhaps the finest winter mountaineer of his day".[1]
Piotrowski began his career in the 1960s in Poland's Tatra Mountains, around the time when he was a student at the Szczecin University of Technology. He would go on to become one of the leading Polish mountaineers, known worldwide as a winter climbing specialist. He was one of the earliest mountaineers to specialize in winter climbing.
His best known climbs, usually first along the given path, and most of them in winter, include: Trollryggen, Norway in winter 1972, Noshaq, Afghanistan in winter 1973, Trollryggen, Norway in winter 1974, Trollryggen, Norway in winter 1977, Tirich Mir, Pakistan in 1978, Rakaposhi, Pakistan in 1979, Distaghil Sar, Pakistan in 1980, Api, Nepal in winter 1983 and K2 in China/Pakistan in summer 1986.
In 1974, his climbing companion, Stanisław Latałło, died on Lhotse; whether Piotrowski could have helped him caused some controversy among Polish mountaineers.[2] In 1983, Piotrowski directed the winter ascent on Api (7132 meters above sea level), and reached its peak on Christmas Eve. He was accompanied by Andrzej Bieluń, who climbed at the head, and was lost, assumed dead near the top of the mountain.
Piotrowski died on 10 July 1986. Two days previously he and Jerzy Kukuczka had finished the first ascent of the South Face of K2 (also called the "Polish Line") - a very difficult and dangerous route which was threatened by seracs and had been called "suicidal" by Reinhold Messner.[3] "The route is so avalanche-prone, that no one else has ever considered a new attempt."[4][5] It was during the descent by a classic route (the Abruzzi Spur) that he lost both his crampons and fell to his death at around 7900 meters, following two exhausting stopovers at the wall with no food or water.[6] The route Piotrowski and Kukuczka climbed remains unrepeated.[a]
For his mountaineering successes, Tadeusz Piotrowski became a four-time recipient of the highest sports medal in Poland, the Gold Medal for the Exceptional Sporting Achievements.
a^ In 1993 a Canadian team (Barry Blanchard, Troy Kirwan and Peter Arbic) made a partial repeat, but exited onto the Abruzzi Spur at a lower point than the Poles had done, and did not reach the summit.[7]
Referencesedit
Inline
^Kevin Fedarko, The Mountain of Mountains, p.3, Outside Magazine November 2003
^(in Polish) Ryszard Szafirski, Andrzej Skupiński, Andrzej Zawada Był Wspaniały i Dumny, Zwoje 5 (25) / 2000
^R. Messner and A. Gogna [1981] (1982) K2 Mountain of Mountains. Translated from German by A. Salked. Oxford University Press. ISBN0-19-520253-8
^"AdventureStats Special: The unclimbed faces of K2" K2 Climb Net, ExplorersWeb Inc., undated, retrieved on 2008-09-18.
^Kukuczka, Jerzy. "K2's South Face - AAC Publications - Search The American Alpine Journal and Accidents". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 16 February 2017.
tadeusz, piotrowski, mountaineer, this, article, require, cleanup, meet, wikipedia, quality, standards, specific, problem, references, please, help, improve, this, article, december, 2022, learn, when, remove, this, template, message, tadeusz, piotrowski, sept. This article may require cleanup to meet Wikipedia s quality standards The specific problem is References Please help improve this article if you can December 2022 Learn how and when to remove this template message Tadeusz Piotrowski September 19 1939 July 10 1986 was a Polish mountaineer and author of several books related to the subject He has been referred to as perhaps the finest winter mountaineer of his day 1 Contents 1 Career 2 See also 3 Notes 4 References 5 BibliographyCareer editPiotrowski began his career in the 1960s in Poland s Tatra Mountains around the time when he was a student at the Szczecin University of Technology He would go on to become one of the leading Polish mountaineers known worldwide as a winter climbing specialist He was one of the earliest mountaineers to specialize in winter climbing His best known climbs usually first along the given path and most of them in winter include Trollryggen Norway in winter 1972 Noshaq Afghanistan in winter 1973 Trollryggen Norway in winter 1974 Trollryggen Norway in winter 1977 Tirich Mir Pakistan in 1978 Rakaposhi Pakistan in 1979 Distaghil Sar Pakistan in 1980 Api Nepal in winter 1983 and K2 in China Pakistan in summer 1986 In 1974 his climbing companion Stanislaw Latallo died on Lhotse whether Piotrowski could have helped him caused some controversy among Polish mountaineers 2 In 1983 Piotrowski directed the winter ascent on Api 7132 meters above sea level and reached its peak on Christmas Eve He was accompanied by Andrzej Bielun who climbed at the head and was lost assumed dead near the top of the mountain Piotrowski died on 10 July 1986 Two days previously he and Jerzy Kukuczka had finished the first ascent of the South Face of K2 also called the Polish Line a very difficult and dangerous route which was threatened by seracs and had been called suicidal by Reinhold Messner 3 The route is so avalanche prone that no one else has ever considered a new attempt 4 5 It was during the descent by a classic route the Abruzzi Spur that he lost both his crampons and fell to his death at around 7900 meters following two exhausting stopovers at the wall with no food or water 6 The route Piotrowski and Kukuczka climbed remains unrepeated a For his mountaineering successes Tadeusz Piotrowski became a four time recipient of the highest sports medal in Poland the Gold Medal for the Exceptional Sporting Achievements See also edit1986 K2 DisasterNotes edita In 1993 a Canadian team Barry Blanchard Troy Kirwan and Peter Arbic made a partial repeat but exited onto the Abruzzi Spur at a lower point than the Poles had done and did not reach the summit 7 References editInline Kevin Fedarko The Mountain of Mountains p 3 Outside Magazine November 2003 in Polish Ryszard Szafirski Andrzej Skupinski Andrzej Zawada Byl Wspanialy i Dumny Zwoje 5 25 2000 R Messner and A Gogna 1981 1982 K2 Mountain of Mountains Translated from German by A Salked Oxford University Press ISBN 0 19 520253 8 AdventureStats Special The unclimbed faces of K2 K2 Climb Net ExplorersWeb Inc undated retrieved on 2008 09 18 Kukuczka Jerzy K2 s South Face AAC Publications Search The American Alpine Journal and Accidents publications americanalpineclub org Retrieved 16 February 2017 Greg Child and Jon Krakauer The Dangerous Summer Archived 2009 04 16 at the Wayback Machine Outside Magazine March 1987 See Curran Jim 1995 K2 The Story of the Savage Mountain Hodder amp Stoughton pp 220 221 ISBN 978 0 340 66007 2 GeneralRogozinska Monika translated by Scrivanek K2 Chogori Winter 2003 Rzeczpospolita undated retrieved 2008 09 18 Mountaineering K2 Was Too Much Warsaw Voice 13 March 2003 retrieved 2008 09 18 Child Greg Scott Doug 1998 Thin Air The Mountaineers Books p 213 ISBN 978 0 89886 588 2 Bibliography editGdy krzepnie rtec 1982 ISBN 83 207 0351 4 Naga Gora Nanga Parbat 1990 ISBN 83 217 2808 1 Slonce nad Tiricz Mirem 1988 ISBN 83 217 2687 9 Viharban fagyban 1988 ISBN 963 282 007 X W burzy i mrozie 1977 W lodowym swiecie Trolli 1986 ISBN 83 217 2541 4 W Scianie Trolli 1984 ISBN 83 217 2540 6 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Tadeusz Piotrowski mountaineer amp oldid 1167542040, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
