Rakaposhi (Burushaski: رآکاپوݜی, lit. 'Shining Wall';[3]Urdu: راکاپوشی) also known as Dumani (Burushaski: دومآنی, lit. 'Mother of Mist') is a mountain within the Karakoram range. It is situated in the middle of the Nagar Valley and the Bagrote Valley, which is part of the Gilgit-Baltistan territory in Pakistan. The mountain is extremely broad, measuring almost 20km from east to west. It is the only peak on earth that descends directly and without interruption for almost 6,000 meters from its summit to its base.[3]
Rakaposhi is the only mountain in the world with more than 5,000 meters height between its base camp and its summit; by contrast, all of the other tallest mountains in the world have less than 5,000 meters from base camp to top.[citation needed]
The first successful recorded ascent was in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British expedition, via the southwest Spur/Ridge route.
Rakaposhi as viewed from the road across the valley.
Notable featuresedit
Rakaposhi is notable for its exceptional rise over local terrain. On the north, it rises 5,900 metres (19,357 ft) in only an 11.2 km (7 mi) horizontal distance from the Hunza River. There are views of Rakaposhi from the Karakoram Highway on the route through Nagar. A tourist spot in the town of Ghulmet (located in the Hunza Valley) called "Zero Point of Rakaposhi" is the closest view point of the mountain.
Rakaposhi is the only mountain in the world which rises straight from beautifully cultivated fields to the height of 25,550 feet. From many places this wonderful spectacle can be viewed right from the base to the top.[6]
1938 M. Vyvyan and R. Campbell Secord make the first reconnaissance and climb a north-western forepeak (about 5,800 m (19,030 ft)) via the northwest ridge.
1947 Secord returns with H. W. Tilman and two Swiss climbers, Hans Gyr and Robert Kappeler; they ascend via the Gunti glacier to 5,800 m (19,000 ft) on the south-west spur.
1954 Cambridge University team, led by Alfred Tissières, attempts the peak via the south-west spur but only reached 6,340 m (20,800 ft). Also, an Austro-German expedition led by Mathias Rebitsch attempted the same route.
1956 A British-American expedition, led by Mike Banks, reaches 7,163 m (23,500 ft) on the Southwest Ridge, above the Gunti glacier.[7]
1958 The first successful recorded ascent: Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route.[8][9] They both suffered minor frostbite during the ascent to the summit on June 25. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.
1964 An Irish expedition attempts the long and difficult Northwest Ridge.
1971 Karl Herrligkofer leads an attempt on the elegant but difficult North Spur (or North Ridge).
1973 Herrligkofer returns to the North Spur but is again unsuccessful due to time and weather problems.
1979 A Polish-Pakistan expedition ascends the Northwest Ridge from the Biro Glacier.[10]
1979 A Japanese expedition from Waseda University, led by Eiho Ohtani, succeeds in climbing the North Spur. Summit party: Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita. This ascent was expedition-style, done over a period of six weeks, with 5000 m of fixed rope.
1984 A Canadian team achieves a semi-alpine-style ascent of the North Spur, using much less fixed rope than the Japanese team had. Summit party: Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond, Kevin Doyle.[11]
1985-1987 Various unsuccessful attempts on the long East Ridge.
1986 A Dutch team climbs a variation of the Northwest Ridge route.
1995 An ascent via the Northwest Ridge.
1997 An ascent via the Southwest Spur/Ridge (possibly the original route).
2000 An attempt from the east side Bagrot Valley Hinercha Glacier.
2002 A Canadian caliber attempt period of 2 weeks from front side of base camp Hinercha glacier Bagrote valley gilgit east side.[clarification needed]
2004 An attempt from the east side Bagrot Valley Hinercha Glacier.
• In 2021, it was successfully climbed by Wajidullah Nagari and two Czech climbers, Jacob Vicek and Peter Macek.
Climbing routesedit
A view of Diran from Tagaferi Base Camp after Sunrise.Incredible beauty of Rakaposhi from Bagrot Valley, Gilgit.
The routes with successful summits so far have been (see the timeline as well):
Southwest Spur/Ridge (first ascent route). Long, but not exceedingly technical. Some tricky gendarmes (rock pinnacles). Has been repeated.
From the east side, it is short route to climb
Northwest Ridge. Long, and more technically difficult than the Southwest Spur/Ridge. Has been repeated.
North Spur (a.k.a. North Ridge). Shorter than the above two routes, but much more technically difficult. Has been repeated, including a semi-alpine style (capsule-style) ascent.
Attempts have also been made from the east side Bagrot Valley Hinearcha Glacier, the East Ridge, and the North Face.
^Karakuram Hunza: The Land of Just Enough. S. Shahid Hamid. Karachi, 1979, p. 10.
^ ab Irvin, Richard K. (1957). "Rakaposhi — Almost". Feature Article. American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 10 (2): 54. Retrieved 2016-06-24.
^ Banks, Michael (1959). "Himalaya, Pakistan, Rakaposhi". Climbs And Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 11 (2): 328. Retrieved 2016-06-24.
^ "Climbing details". summitpost.org. Retrieved 25 September 2011.
^ Nyka, Józef (1980). "Rakaposhi, Second Ascent by New Route, Northwest and Southwest Ridges". Climbs And Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2017-10-08.
^ Cheesmond, David M. (1985). "The North Face of Rakaposhi". Feature Article. American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 27 (59): 53. Retrieved 2016-06-24.
Sourcesedit
Neate, Jill (1989). High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks. ISBN0-89886-238-8.
Fanshawe, Andy; Venables, Stephen (1995). Himalaya Alpine-Style. Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN0-89886-456-9.
Himalayan Index
DEM files for the Himalaya/Karakoram (Corrected versions of SRTM data)
External linksedit
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Rakaposhi.
Rakaposhi on Summitpost.org
A list of mountains by local relief and steepness showing Rakaposhi as the world #3.
Northern Pakistan- highly detailed place marks of towns, villages, peaks, glaciers, rivers and minor tributaries in Google Earth
A Quick approach through lovely meadows leads to the base camp of RAKAPOSHI
February 16, 2024
rakaposhi, burushaski, رآکاپوݜی, shining, wall, urdu, راکاپوشی, also, known, dumani, burushaski, دومآنی, mother, mist, mountain, within, karakoram, range, situated, middle, nagar, valley, bagrote, valley, which, part, gilgit, baltistan, territory, pakistan, mo. Rakaposhi Burushaski رآکاپوݜی lit Shining Wall 3 Urdu راکاپوشی also known as Dumani Burushaski دومآنی lit Mother of Mist is a mountain within the Karakoram range It is situated in the middle of the Nagar Valley and the Bagrote Valley which is part of the Gilgit Baltistan territory in Pakistan The mountain is extremely broad measuring almost 20km from east to west It is the only peak on earth that descends directly and without interruption for almost 6 000 meters from its summit to its base 3 RakaposhiHighest pointElevation7 788 m 25 551 ft 1 Ranked 27thProminence2 818 m 9 245 ft 2 Ranked 122ndIsolation41 km 25 mi ListingUltraCoordinates36 08 33 N 74 29 21 E 36 14250 N 74 48917 E 36 14250 74 48917 2 NamingNative nameراکاپوشی ر کی پ وش ہ Urdu GeographyRakaposhiLocation in Nagar valley Bagrote valley Gilgit BaltistanShow map of PakistanRakaposhiRakaposhi Gilgit Baltistan Show map of Gilgit BaltistanLocationbetween Nagar Valley Bagrote valley District Gilgit Gilgit Baltistan PakistanParent rangeRakaposhi KarakoramClimbingFirst ascent1958 by Mike Banks and Tom PateyEasiest routeSouthwest Spur glacier snow ice Contents 1 Geography 2 Park 3 Notable features 4 Time line 5 Climbing routes 6 See also 7 References 8 Sources 9 External linksGeography editThis section does not cite any sources Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources Unsourced material may be challenged and removed February 2022 Learn how and when to remove this template message Rakaposhi is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range in the Gilgit Baltistan territory about 100 km 62 mi north of the city of Gilgit 1 It is the 27th highest mountain in the world Rakaposhi rises over the Nagar Valley Rakaposhi is the only mountain in the world with more than 5 000 meters height between its base camp and its summit by contrast all of the other tallest mountains in the world have less than 5 000 meters from base camp to top citation needed The first successful recorded ascent was in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey members of a British expedition via the southwest Spur Ridge route Park editRakaposhi is also known as Dumani Mother of Mist or Mother of Clouds 4 The people of Nagar and Bagrot Valley have dedicated the Rakaposhi range mountain area as a community park The minister for the northern areas inaugurated the park citation needed The Rakaposhi mountain range is the home of endangered species such as Marco Polo sheep snow leopard brown bear and wolves 5 nbsp Rakaposhi as viewed from the road across the valley Notable features editRakaposhi is notable for its exceptional rise over local terrain On the north it rises 5 900 metres 19 357 ft in only an 11 2 km 7 mi horizontal distance from the Hunza River There are views of Rakaposhi from the Karakoram Highway on the route through Nagar A tourist spot in the town of Ghulmet located in the Hunza Valley called Zero Point of Rakaposhi is the closest view point of the mountain Rakaposhi is the only mountain in the world which rises straight from beautifully cultivated fields to the height of 25 550 feet From many places this wonderful spectacle can be viewed right from the base to the top 6 Time line editThis section needs additional citations for verification Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources in this section Unsourced material may be challenged and removed October 2017 Learn how and when to remove this template message nbsp Front view of Rakaposhi Peak from Bagrote Valley Gilgit1892 Martin Conway explores the south side of Rakaposhi 7 1938 M Vyvyan and R Campbell Secord make the first reconnaissance and climb a north western forepeak about 5 800 m 19 030 ft via the northwest ridge 1947 Secord returns with H W Tilman and two Swiss climbers Hans Gyr and Robert Kappeler they ascend via the Gunti glacier to 5 800 m 19 000 ft on the south west spur 1954 Cambridge University team led by Alfred Tissieres attempts the peak via the south west spur but only reached 6 340 m 20 800 ft Also an Austro German expedition led by Mathias Rebitsch attempted the same route 1956 A British American expedition led by Mike Banks reaches 7 163 m 23 500 ft on the Southwest Ridge above the Gunti glacier 7 1958 The first successful recorded ascent Mike Banks and Tom Patey members of a British expedition via the Southwest Spur Ridge route 8 9 They both suffered minor frostbite during the ascent to the summit on June 25 Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night 1964 An Irish expedition attempts the long and difficult Northwest Ridge 1971 Karl Herrligkofer leads an attempt on the elegant but difficult North Spur or North Ridge 1973 Herrligkofer returns to the North Spur but is again unsuccessful due to time and weather problems 1979 A Polish Pakistan expedition ascends the Northwest Ridge from the Biro Glacier 10 1979 A Japanese expedition from Waseda University led by Eiho Ohtani succeeds in climbing the North Spur Summit party Ohtani and Matsushi Yamashita This ascent was expedition style done over a period of six weeks with 5000 m of fixed rope 1984 A Canadian team achieves a semi alpine style ascent of the North Spur using much less fixed rope than the Japanese team had Summit party Barry Blanchard David Cheesmond Kevin Doyle 11 1985 1987 Various unsuccessful attempts on the long East Ridge 1986 A Dutch team climbs a variation of the Northwest Ridge route 1995 An ascent via the Northwest Ridge 1997 An ascent via the Southwest Spur Ridge possibly the original route 2000 An attempt from the east side Bagrot Valley Hinercha Glacier 2002 A Canadian caliber attempt period of 2 weeks from front side of base camp Hinercha glacier Bagrote valley gilgit east side clarification needed 2004 An attempt from the east side Bagrot Valley Hinercha Glacier In 2021 it was successfully climbed by Wajidullah Nagari and two Czech climbers Jacob Vicek and Peter Macek Climbing routes edit nbsp A view of Diran from Tagaferi Base Camp after Sunrise nbsp Incredible beauty of Rakaposhi from Bagrot Valley Gilgit This section does not cite any sources Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources Unsourced material may be challenged and removed February 2022 Learn how and when to remove this template message The routes with successful summits so far have been see the timeline as well Southwest Spur Ridge first ascent route Long but not exceedingly technical Some tricky gendarmes rock pinnacles Has been repeated From the east side it is short route to climb Northwest Ridge Long and more technically difficult than the Southwest Spur Ridge Has been repeated North Spur a k a North Ridge Shorter than the above two routes but much more technically difficult Has been repeated including a semi alpine style capsule style ascent Attempts have also been made from the east side Bagrot Valley Hinearcha Glacier the East Ridge and the North Face See also editHighest mountains of the world List of Ultras of the Karakoram and Hindu Kush List of mountains in PakistanReferences edit a b Rakaposhi Peakbagger com Retrieved 25 September 2011 a b Karakoram ultras peaklist org Retrieved 25 September 2011 a b Rakaposhi Climbing Hiking amp Mountaineering SummitPost www summitpost org Retrieved 2023 02 17 Rakaposhi PeakVisor Retrieved 2023 02 17 Hunza Adventure Tours HunzaATP Karakuram Hunza The Land of Just Enough S Shahid Hamid Karachi 1979 p 10 a b Irvin Richard K 1957 Rakaposhi Almost Feature Article American Alpine Journal New York NY USA American Alpine Club 10 2 54 Retrieved 2016 06 24 Banks Michael 1959 Himalaya Pakistan Rakaposhi Climbs And Expeditions American Alpine Journal New York NY USA American Alpine Club 11 2 328 Retrieved 2016 06 24 Climbing details summitpost org Retrieved 25 September 2011 Nyka Jozef 1980 Rakaposhi Second Ascent by New Route Northwest and Southwest Ridges Climbs And Expeditions American Alpine Journal New York NY USA American Alpine Club Retrieved 2017 10 08 Cheesmond David M 1985 The North Face of Rakaposhi Feature Article American Alpine Journal New York NY USA American Alpine Club 27 59 53 Retrieved 2016 06 24 Sources editNeate Jill 1989 High Asia An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks ISBN 0 89886 238 8 Fanshawe Andy Venables Stephen 1995 Himalaya Alpine Style Hodder and Stoughton ISBN 0 89886 456 9 Himalayan Index DEM files for the Himalaya Karakoram Corrected versions of SRTM data External links edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Rakaposhi Rakaposhi on Summitpost org A list of mountains by local relief and steepness showing Rakaposhi as the world 3 Northern Pakistan highly detailed place marks of towns villages peaks glaciers rivers and minor tributaries in Google Earth A Quick approach through lovely meadows leads to the base camp of RAKAPOSHI Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Rakaposhi amp oldid 1189347712, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
