Shot silk (also called changeant,[1]changeable silk, changeable taffeta, cross-color, changeable fabric,[2] or "dhoop chaon" ("sunshine shade")[3]) is a fabric which is made up of silkwoven from warp and weft yarns of two or more colours producing an iridescent appearance.[4] A "shot" is a single throw of the bobbin that carries the weft thread through the warp,[4] and shot silk colours can be described as "[warp colour] shot with [weft colour]." The weaving technique can also be applied to other fibres such as cotton, linen, and synthetics.
Shot silk with a blue warp and pink weft.Man's shot silk suit, purple warp and green weft, c. 1790 (altered c. 1805). Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
A shot silk vestment of purple and yellow dating from about 698 is described in detail in a document written in about 1170, showing that the technique existed since at least the 7th century.[5] An argument has been made that shot silk was also described as purpura at this time, the Latin word mainly applied to purple although there are multiple references to purpura being red, green, and black-and-red, as well as "varied".[5]Purpura is also used to mean iridescence and the play of light, and contemporary descriptions exist indicating that the textile purpura was a type of silk distinct to other silks in assorted colours.[5] It has also been suggested that illuminations in the Lindisfarne Gospels of c.700 show garments of shot silk being worn by the Four Evangelists.[6]
Shot silks were popular in the 18th and 19th centuries, including warp printing, where the warp was printed before weaving to create chiné or "Pompadour taffeta".[7]
Current useedit
Shot silks are used today to make neckties and other garments. Notably, some forms of academic dress use shot silks, such as those of the University of Wales and the University of Cambridge. For example, the robes of a Cambridge Doctor of Divinity are faced with "dove" silk, which is turquoise shot with rose-pink to create an overall grey effect.[8][9]
^Franck, Robert R., ed. (2006). Silk, mohair, cashmere and other luxury fibres (Repr. ed.). Boca Raton: CRC. p. 31. ISBN9781855735408.
^Montgomery, Florence M. (1984). Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth. Internet Archive. New York ; London : Norton. p. 195. ISBN978-0-393-01703-8.
^India, Malkha. "CROSS COLOUR FABRIC : KORA : KATHA BROWN". Malkha India. Retrieved 18 August 2020.
^Fukai, Akiko (2002). Fashion : the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute : a history from the 18th to the 20th century. Köln [etc.]: Taschen. p. 56. ISBN9783822812068.
^"Gowns and Hoods". University of Wales. Retrieved 9 April 2011.
^Statutes and Ordinances of the University of Cambridge 2015. Cambridge University Press. 2015. ISBN9781107531468. Retrieved 8 May 2017.
Referencesedit
Takeda, Sharon Sadako; Spilker, Kaye Durland (2010). Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700–1915. Prestel USA. ISBN978-3-7913-5062-2.
January 01, 1970
shot, silk, also, called, changeant, changeable, silk, changeable, taffeta, cross, color, changeable, fabric, dhoop, chaon, sunshine, shade, fabric, which, made, silk, woven, from, warp, weft, yarns, more, colours, producing, iridescent, appearance, shot, sing. Shot silk also called changeant 1 changeable silk changeable taffeta cross color changeable fabric 2 or dhoop chaon sunshine shade 3 is a fabric which is made up of silk woven from warp and weft yarns of two or more colours producing an iridescent appearance 4 A shot is a single throw of the bobbin that carries the weft thread through the warp 4 and shot silk colours can be described as warp colour shot with weft colour The weaving technique can also be applied to other fibres such as cotton linen and synthetics Shot silk with a blue warp and pink weft Man s shot silk suit purple warp and green weft c 1790 altered c 1805 Los Angeles County Museum of Art Contents 1 History 2 Current use 3 See also 4 Notes 5 ReferencesHistory editA shot silk vestment of purple and yellow dating from about 698 is described in detail in a document written in about 1170 showing that the technique existed since at least the 7th century 5 An argument has been made that shot silk was also described as purpura at this time the Latin word mainly applied to purple although there are multiple references to purpura being red green and black and red as well as varied 5 Purpura is also used to mean iridescence and the play of light and contemporary descriptions exist indicating that the textile purpura was a type of silk distinct to other silks in assorted colours 5 It has also been suggested that illuminations in the Lindisfarne Gospels of c 700 show garments of shot silk being worn by the Four Evangelists 6 Shot silks were popular in the 18th and 19th centuries including warp printing where the warp was printed before weaving to create chine or Pompadour taffeta 7 Current use editShot silks are used today to make neckties and other garments Notably some forms of academic dress use shot silks such as those of the University of Wales and the University of Cambridge For example the robes of a Cambridge Doctor of Divinity are faced with dove silk which is turquoise shot with rose pink to create an overall grey effect 8 9 See also editSharkskinNotes edit Franck Robert R ed 2006 Silk mohair cashmere and other luxury fibres Repr ed Boca Raton CRC p 31 ISBN 9781855735408 Montgomery Florence M 1984 Textiles in America 1650 1870 a dictionary based on original documents prints and paintings commercial records American merchants papers shopkeepers advertisements and pattern books with original swatches of cloth Internet Archive New York London Norton p 195 ISBN 978 0 393 01703 8 India Malkha CROSS COLOUR FABRIC KORA KATHA BROWN Malkha India Retrieved 18 August 2020 a b Takeda amp Spilker 2010 p 49 a b c Dodwell C R 1982 Anglo Saxon Art A New Perspective Manchester University Press pp 145 150 ISBN 0 7190 0926 X Owen Crocker Gale R 2010 Dress in Anglo Saxon England Rev and enl ed Woodbridge Boydell amp Brewer p 302 ISBN 9781843835721 Fukai Akiko 2002 Fashion the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute a history from the 18th to the 20th century Koln etc Taschen p 56 ISBN 9783822812068 Gowns and Hoods University of Wales Retrieved 9 April 2011 Statutes and Ordinances of the University of Cambridge 2015 Cambridge University Press 2015 ISBN 9781107531468 Retrieved 8 May 2017 References editTakeda Sharon Sadako Spilker Kaye Durland 2010 Fashioning Fashion European Dress in Detail 1700 1915 Prestel USA ISBN 978 3 7913 5062 2 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Shot silk amp oldid 1201932629, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
