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Polo neck

A polo neck, roll-neck[1] (South Africa), turtleneck (United States, Canada), or skivvy is a garment—usually a sweater—with a close-fitting collar that folds over and covers the neck. It can also refer to the type of neckline, the style of collar itself, or be used as an adjective ("polo necked").

A person wearing a folded polo neck

A simpler variant of the standard polo neck is the mock polo neck (or mock turtleneck), that resembles the polo neck with the soft fold at its top and the way it stands up around the neck, but both ends of the tube forming the collar are sewn to the neckline. This is mainly used to achieve the appearance of a polo neck where the fabric would fray, roll, or otherwise behave badly unless sewn. The mock polo neck clings to the neck smoothly, is easy to manufacture, and works well with a zip closure.

History Edit

 
Woman in an unfolded polo neck.

Europe Edit

Turtle neck–like garments have been worn for hundreds of years, dating at least to the 15th century. They were originally designed to protect the necks of knights wearing chainmail. Royalty adopted high-neck fashion, with the height and volume of the neck ruffle indicating status.[2]

From the late 19th century on polo necks were commonly worn by fishermen, manual workers, athletes, sailors and naval officers.[3] Since the middle of that century, black polo necks have been closely associated with leftist radical academics, philosophers, artists and intellectuals.[4][5] The polo neck jumper became an iconic symbol of the French philosopher Michel Foucault.[6] Polo necks also became a big fashion for wealthy young men after they were worn by European film stars Marcello Mastroianni and Yves Montand.[7]

Greta Garbo often wore polo necks and trousers privately, as later Audrey Hepburn would do in official photographs.

Vladimir Putin[8] of Russia, Andreas Papandreou[9] of Greece, and Emmanuel Macron[10] of France are examples of European leaders who are fond of wearing polo necks.

United States Edit

At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries the high neckline blouse became a fashionable option for young women as part of the emergence of the Gibson Girl.[11] Their adoption by Noël Coward in the 1920s turned polo necks into a brief middle-class fashion trend, and feminists made them into a unisex item. Absorbed into mainstream American fashion by the mid 20th century, the polo neck came to be viewed as an anti-tie, a smart form of dress for those who rejected formal wear. Senator Ted Kennedy, pianist/conductor Vladimir Ashkenazy, conductor Seiji Ozawa, philosopher Michel Foucault, shipping tycoon Stavros Niarchos, singer Barry Manilow, scientist Carl Sagan, Oracle Corporation co-founder Larry Ellison, Theranos founder Elizabeth Holmes, and Apple Inc. co-founder Steve Jobs were among those often seen in polo necks.[12]

Over time it became a fad among teenage girls, especially in a lightweight form that emphasised their figures. It was not long before Hollywood was also exploiting this image as part of the sweater girl look.

By the late 1950s the "tight turtleneck" had been adopted as part of the preppy style among students, a style emphasising neatness, tidiness and grooming. This would become an important aspect of the polo neck's image in the United States.

Very elegant polo necks of silk or nylon knit, especially made with French cuffs for formal dress affairs, have also seen success in American fashion.[13]

As an alternative to the necktie Edit

 
Steve Jobs (left) wearing his signature mock polo neck by Issey Miyake[14]

Polo necks have been used as substitutes for a shirt-and-tie since the 1920s.[15] This was sometimes frowned upon in upscale restaurants and at weddings.

John Berendt wrote in Esquire[15]

the turtleneck was the boldest of all the affronts to the status quo. It was the picture of masculine poise and arrogance, redolent of athletes, sportsmen, even U-boat commanders. The simplicity of its design made neckties seem fussy and superfluous by comparison

The designer Halston said[15]

turtlenecks are the most comfortable garment you can wear. They move with the body, and they're flattering too, because they accentuate the face and elongate the figure. They make life so easy: you can wear a turtleneck to work and then afterwards throw on a jacket, and it becomes very dressy. You can go anywhere you like.

See also Edit

References Edit

  1. ^ Chilvers, Simon (2011-08-23). "Man-trend: Roll-necks | Fashion | guardian.co.uk". Guardian. Retrieved 2013-03-14.
  2. ^ Bucci, Jessica (2017-01-10). "Fashion Archives: A Look at the History of the Turtleneck". Fashion Fabric Sourcing. StartUp Fashion. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
  3. ^ "The Radical History & Psychology of Turtlenecks". The Good Trade. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
  4. ^ Mary Ann Frese Witt, The Humanities and the Modern World, 2000, ISBN 9780669154269, OCLC 254520256, pp. 463–464.
  5. ^ Deirdre Bair, Simone de Beauvoir: A Biography, 1990, p. 360.
  6. ^ Eribon, Didier (1992) [1989]. Michel Foucault. Translated by Betsy Wing. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press. p. 311. ISBN 978-0-571-14474-7.
  7. ^ Guido Vergani, Dizionario della moda, 2009, p. 348 (in Italian).
  8. ^ Zbigniew Brzezinski, Putin's Choice, 2008.
  9. ^ Theodore C. Kariotis, The Greek Socialist Experiment: Papandreou's Greece 1981–1989, 1992
  10. ^ "What's Emmanuel Macron's Turtleneck Trying to Say?". Vanity Fair.
  11. ^ "The Radical History & Psychology Of Turtlenecks". The Good Trade. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
  12. ^ Warde-Aldam, Digby. "How the black turtleneck came to represent creative genius". CNN. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
  13. ^ O'Donnol, Shirley Miles (1989-08-22). American Costume, 1915-1970: A Source Book for the Stage Costumer. ISBN 0253113733. Retrieved 2013-03-14.
  14. ^ Olivarez-Giles, Nathan (October 11, 2011). "Steve Jobs' black turtleneck reportedly explained in biography". Los Angeles Times. Technology (blog). Retrieved June 7, 2014.
  15. ^ a b c Hoffmann, Frank W.; William G. Bailey (1994). Fashion & Merchandising Fads. Haworth Popular Culture. Binghamton, N.Y.: The Haworth Press. pp. 267–268. ISBN 9781560243762. OCLC 27225478.

External links Edit

polo, neck, confused, with, polo, shirt, polo, neck, roll, neck, south, africa, turtleneck, united, states, canada, skivvy, garment, usually, sweater, with, close, fitting, collar, that, folds, over, covers, neck, also, refer, type, neckline, style, collar, it. Not to be confused with polo shirt A polo neck roll neck 1 South Africa turtleneck United States Canada or skivvy is a garment usually a sweater with a close fitting collar that folds over and covers the neck It can also refer to the type of neckline the style of collar itself or be used as an adjective polo necked A person wearing a folded polo neckA simpler variant of the standard polo neck is the mock polo neck or mock turtleneck that resembles the polo neck with the soft fold at its top and the way it stands up around the neck but both ends of the tube forming the collar are sewn to the neckline This is mainly used to achieve the appearance of a polo neck where the fabric would fray roll or otherwise behave badly unless sewn The mock polo neck clings to the neck smoothly is easy to manufacture and works well with a zip closure Contents 1 History 1 1 Europe 1 2 United States 2 As an alternative to the necktie 3 See also 4 References 5 External linksHistory Edit nbsp Woman in an unfolded polo neck Europe Edit Turtle neck like garments have been worn for hundreds of years dating at least to the 15th century They were originally designed to protect the necks of knights wearing chainmail Royalty adopted high neck fashion with the height and volume of the neck ruffle indicating status 2 From the late 19th century on polo necks were commonly worn by fishermen manual workers athletes sailors and naval officers 3 Since the middle of that century black polo necks have been closely associated with leftist radical academics philosophers artists and intellectuals 4 5 The polo neck jumper became an iconic symbol of the French philosopher Michel Foucault 6 Polo necks also became a big fashion for wealthy young men after they were worn by European film stars Marcello Mastroianni and Yves Montand 7 Greta Garbo often wore polo necks and trousers privately as later Audrey Hepburn would do in official photographs Vladimir Putin 8 of Russia Andreas Papandreou 9 of Greece and Emmanuel Macron 10 of France are examples of European leaders who are fond of wearing polo necks United States Edit At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries the high neckline blouse became a fashionable option for young women as part of the emergence of the Gibson Girl 11 Their adoption by Noel Coward in the 1920s turned polo necks into a brief middle class fashion trend and feminists made them into a unisex item Absorbed into mainstream American fashion by the mid 20th century the polo neck came to be viewed as an anti tie a smart form of dress for those who rejected formal wear Senator Ted Kennedy pianist conductor Vladimir Ashkenazy conductor Seiji Ozawa philosopher Michel Foucault shipping tycoon Stavros Niarchos singer Barry Manilow scientist Carl Sagan Oracle Corporation co founder Larry Ellison Theranos founder Elizabeth Holmes and Apple Inc co founder Steve Jobs were among those often seen in polo necks 12 Over time it became a fad among teenage girls especially in a lightweight form that emphasised their figures It was not long before Hollywood was also exploiting this image as part of the sweater girl look By the late 1950s the tight turtleneck had been adopted as part of the preppy style among students a style emphasising neatness tidiness and grooming This would become an important aspect of the polo neck s image in the United States Very elegant polo necks of silk or nylon knit especially made with French cuffs for formal dress affairs have also seen success in American fashion 13 As an alternative to the necktie Edit nbsp Steve Jobs left wearing his signature mock polo neck by Issey Miyake 14 Polo necks have been used as substitutes for a shirt and tie since the 1920s 15 This was sometimes frowned upon in upscale restaurants and at weddings John Berendt wrote in Esquire 15 the turtleneck was the boldest of all the affronts to the status quo It was the picture of masculine poise and arrogance redolent of athletes sportsmen even U boat commanders The simplicity of its design made neckties seem fussy and superfluous by comparison The designer Halston said 15 turtlenecks are the most comfortable garment you can wear They move with the body and they re flattering too because they accentuate the face and elongate the figure They make life so easy you can wear a turtleneck to work and then afterwards throw on a jacket and it becomes very dressy You can go anywhere you like See also EditBeatnik Lacoste Polo shirt Ralph Lauren Corporation Collar clothing References Edit Chilvers Simon 2011 08 23 Man trend Roll necks Fashion guardian co uk Guardian Retrieved 2013 03 14 Bucci Jessica 2017 01 10 Fashion Archives A Look at the History of the Turtleneck Fashion Fabric Sourcing StartUp Fashion Retrieved 2020 04 02 The Radical History amp Psychology of Turtlenecks The Good Trade Retrieved 2020 04 02 Mary Ann Frese Witt The Humanities and the Modern World 2000 ISBN 9780669154269 OCLC 254520256 pp 463 464 Deirdre Bair Simone de Beauvoir A Biography 1990 p 360 Eribon Didier 1992 1989 Michel Foucault Translated by Betsy Wing Cambridge Mass Harvard University Press p 311 ISBN 978 0 571 14474 7 Guido Vergani Dizionario della moda 2009 p 348 in Italian Zbigniew Brzezinski Putin s Choice 2008 Theodore C Kariotis The Greek Socialist Experiment Papandreou s Greece 1981 1989 1992 What s Emmanuel Macron s Turtleneck Trying to Say Vanity Fair The Radical History amp Psychology Of Turtlenecks The Good Trade Retrieved 2020 04 02 Warde Aldam Digby How the black turtleneck came to represent creative genius CNN Retrieved 2020 04 02 O Donnol Shirley Miles 1989 08 22 American Costume 1915 1970 A Source Book for the Stage Costumer ISBN 0253113733 Retrieved 2013 03 14 Olivarez Giles Nathan October 11 2011 Steve Jobs black turtleneck reportedly explained in biography Los Angeles Times Technology blog Retrieved June 7 2014 a b c Hoffmann Frank W William G Bailey 1994 Fashion amp Merchandising Fads Haworth Popular Culture Binghamton N Y The Haworth Press pp 267 268 ISBN 9781560243762 OCLC 27225478 External links Edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Turtlenecks Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Polo neck amp oldid 1179059651, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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