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Hannah Glasse

Hannah Glasse (née Allgood; March 1708 – 1 September 1770) was an English cookery writer of the 18th century. Her first cookery book, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, published in 1747, became the best-selling recipe book that century. It was reprinted within its first year of publication, appeared in 20 editions in the 18th century, and continued to be published until well into the 19th century. She later wrote The Servants' Directory (1760) and The Compleat Confectioner, which was probably published in 1760; neither book was as commercially successful as her first.

Hannah Glasse
Glasse's signature at the top of the first chapter of her book, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, 6th Edition, 1758
BornHannah Allgood
March 1708
London, England
Died1 September 1770(1770-09-01) (aged 62)
London, England
OccupationCookery writer, dressmaker
Notable worksThe Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747)
Spouse
John Glasse
(m. 1724⁠–⁠1747)
Children10 or 11

Glasse was born in London to a Northumberland landowner and his mistress. After the relationship ended, Glasse was brought up in her father's family. When she was 16 she eloped with a 30-year-old Irish subaltern then on half-pay and lived in Essex, working on the estate of the Earls of Donegall. The couple struggled financially and, with the aim of raising money, Glasse wrote The Art of Cookery. She copied extensively from other cookery books, around a third of the recipes having been published elsewhere. Among her original recipes are the first known curry recipe written in English, as well as three recipes for pilau, an early reference to vanilla in English cuisine, the first recorded use of jelly in trifle, and an early recipe for ice cream. She was also the first to use the term "Yorkshire pudding" in print.

Glasse became a dressmaker in Covent Garden—where her clients included Princess Augusta, the Princess of Wales—but she ran up excessive debts. She was imprisoned for bankruptcy and was forced to sell the copyright of The Art of Cookery. Much of Glasse's later life is unrecorded; information about her identity was lost until uncovered in 1938 by the historian Madeleine Hope Dodds. Other authors plagiarised Glasse's writing and pirated copies became common, particularly in the United States. The Art of Cookery has been admired by English cooks in the second part of the 20th century, and influenced many of them, including Elizabeth David, Fanny Cradock and Clarissa Dickson Wright.

Biography edit

Early life edit

 
St Andrews, Holborn, where Glasse was christened.

Glasse was born Hannah Allgood at Greville Street, Hatton Garden, London, to Isaac Allgood and his mistress, Hannah Reynolds. Isaac, a landowner and coal-mine owner, was from a well-known, respected family from Nunwick Hall, Hexham, Northumberland; he was married to Hannah née Clark, the daughter of Isaac of London, a vintner.[1][2] Glasse was christened on 24 March 1708 at St Andrews, Holborn, London.[3] Allgood and Reynolds had two other children, both of whom died young. Allgood and his wife also had a child, Lancelot, born three years after Glasse.[2][a]

Allgood took Reynolds and the young Hannah back to Hexham to live, and she was brought up with his other children, but according to A. H. T. Robb-Smith in the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, Reynolds was "banished from Hexham"; no reason is recorded.[2][3] By 1713 Allgood and Reynolds were again living together back in London. The following year, while drunk, Allgood signed papers transferring all his property to Reynolds. Once he realised the magnitude of his mistake, the couple separated. The Allgood family tried to have the property returned, which they managed in 1740, providing Glasse with an annual income and a sum of capital.[2] She did not have a good relationship with her mother, who had little input into her daughter's upbringing; Glasse described her in correspondence as a "wicked wretch!"[4]

Soon after the death of his wife in 1724, Allgood fell ill and Glasse was sent to live with her grandmother. Although Glasse was banned from attending social events by her grandmother, she began a relationship with an older man: John Glasse. He was a 30-year-old Irish subaltern, then on half-pay, who had previously been employed by Lord Polwarth; John was a widower.[2][5][6] On 4 August 1724 the couple were secretly married by special licence. Her family found out about the marriage a month later, when she moved out of her grandmother's house and in with her husband in Piccadilly.[2] Although her family were angered by the relationship, they soon resumed cordial dealings, and continued a warm and friendly correspondence.[2][7] Hannah's first letter to her grandmother apologised for the secrecy surrounding her elopement, but did not express regret for getting married. "I am sorry at what I have done, but only the manner of it".[6]

By 1728 the Glasses were living in New Hall, Broomfield, Essex, the home of the 4th Earl of Donegall; John Glasse was probably working as an estate steward. They had their first child while living at New Hall.[5] The Glasses moved back to London in November 1734 where they lodged for four years before moving to Greville Street, near Hatton Garden. Over the coming years Glasse gave birth to ten children, five of whom died young. She considered education important, and sent her daughters to good local schools and her sons to Eton and Westminster. The couple struggled constantly with finances, and in 1744 Glasse tried to sell Daffy's Elixir, a patent medicine; the project did not take off. She then decided to write a cookery book.[2][6]

The Art of Cookery edit

Frontispieces from two editions of The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy
 
The 1770 edition
 
The 1828 edition

In a letter dated January 1746 Glasse wrote "My book goes on very well and everybody is pleased with it, it is now in the press".[6] The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy was printed the following year and sold at "Mrs. Ashburn's, a China Shop, the corner of Fleet-Ditch", according to the title page.[8][b] The book was available bound for 5 shillings, or plainly stitched for 3 shillings.[9] As was the practice for publishers at the time, Glasse provided the names of subscribers—those who had pre-paid for a copy—who were listed inside the work. The first edition listed 202 subscribers; that number increased for the second and third editions.[2][10] On the title page Glasse writes that the book "far exceeds any Thing of the Kind ever yet published".[11] In the introduction she states "I believe I have attempted a Branch of Cookery which Nobody has yet thought worth their while to write upon",[8] which, she explains, is to write a book aimed at the domestic staff of a household. As such, she apologises to readers, "If I have not wrote in the high, polite Stile, I hope I shall be forgiven; for my Intention is to instruct the lower Sort, and therefore must treat them in their own Way".[8]

Glasse extensively used other sources during the writing: of the 972 recipes in the first edition, 342 of them had been copied or adapted from other works.[12][13] This plagiarism was typical of the time as, under the Statute of Anne—the 1709 act of parliament dealing with copyright protection—recipes were not safeguarded against copyright infringement.[14][15] The chapter on cream was taken in full from Eliza Smith's 1727 work, The Compleat Housewife,[16] and, in the meat section, 17 consecutive recipes were copied from The Whole Duty of a Woman, although Glasse had rewritten the scant instructions intended for experienced cooks into more complete instructions for the less proficient.[17]

A second edition of The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy appeared before the year was out, and nine further versions were published by 1765. The early editions of the book did not reveal its authorship, using the vague cover "By a Lady"; it was not until the fourth imprint, published in 1751, that Glasse's name appeared on the title page.[15][18] The absence of an author's name permitted the erroneous claim that it was written by John Hill;[18] in James Boswell's Life of Johnson, Boswell recounts a dinner with Samuel Johnson and the publisher, Charles Dilly. Dilly stated that "Mrs. Glasse's Cookery, which is the best, was written by Dr Hill. Half the trade know this."[19] Johnson was doubtful of the connection because of confusion in the book between saltpetre and sal prunella, a mistake Hill would not have made. Despite this, Johnson thought it was a male writer, and said "Women can spin very well; but they cannot make a good book of cookery".[19]

Later years edit

The same year in which the first edition was published, John Glasse died. He was buried at St Mary's church, Broomfield, on 21 June 1747. That year, Glasse set herself up as a "habit maker" or dressmaker in Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, in partnership with her eldest daughter, Margaret.[2] The fourth edition of her book included a full-page advertisement for her shop, which said she was the "habit maker to Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales", Princess Augusta.[15][18] When her half-brother Lancelot came to stay with her, he wrote:

Hannah has so many coaches at her door that, to judge from appearances, she must succeed in her business ... she has great visitors with her, no less than the Prince and Princess of Wales, to see her masquerade dresses.[20]

Glasse was not successful in her line of business and, after borrowing heavily, she was declared bankrupt in May 1754 with debts of £10,000.[2][21][c] Among the assets sold off to pay her debts was the copyright of The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy to Andrew Miller and a conger of booksellers, and 3,000 copies of the fifth edition; the syndicate held the rights for the next fifty years. It is not clear what subsequent involvement Glasse had in any of the printings after the fifth.[20][23][d] She was issued with a certificate of conformity, which marked the end of her bankruptcy, in January 1755.[2]

 
Section of the first page of The Compleat Confectioner (1772 edition)

In 1754 the cookery book Professed Cookery: containing boiling, roasting, pastry, preserving, potting, pickling, made-wines, gellies, and part of confectionaries was published by Ann Cook.[24] The book contained what was titled "an essay upon the lady's Art of Cookery", which was an attack on Glasse and The Art of Cookery,[25] described by the historian Madeleine Hope Dodds as a "violent onslaught",[26] and by the historian Gilly Lehman as "appalling doggerel".[27] Dodds established that Cook had been in a feud with Lancelot Allgood and used the book to gain a measure of revenge against him.[28][e]

Glasse continued to live at her Tavistock Street home until 1757, but her financial troubles continued and she was imprisoned as a debtor at Marshalsea gaol in June that year before being transferred to Fleet Prison a month later. By December she had been released and registered three shares in The Servants' Directory, a work she was writing on how to manage a household;[2][30][f] it included several blank pages at the end for recording kitchen accounts.[13] The work was published in 1760, but was not commercially successful.[2][21] Glasse also wrote The Compleat Confectioner, which was published undated, but probably in 1760.[32][33][g] As she had with her first book, Glasse plagiarised the work of others for this new work,[35] particularly from Edwards Lambert's 1744 work The Art of Confectionery,[36] but also from Smith's Compleat Housewife and The Family Magazine (1741).[37] Glasse's work contained the essentials of sweet-, cake- and ices-making, including how to boil sugar to the required stages, making custards and syllabubs, preserving and distilled drinks.[38][39]

There are no records that relate to Glasse's final ten years.[2][21] In 1770 The Newcastle Courant announced "Last week died in London, Mrs Glasse, only sister to Sir Lancelot Allgood, of Nunwick, in Northumberland",[40] referring to her death on 1 September.[2]

Books edit

The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy consists mainly of English recipes, and is aimed at providing good, affordable food,[41] and the television cook Clarissa Dickson Wright saw the work as "a masterly summary" of English cuisine of well-to-do households in the mid-18th century.[3] Glasse saw that household education for young ladies no longer included confectionery and grand desserts,[42] and many of the recipes in The Compleat Confectioner move away from the banqueting dishes of the 17th century to new style desserts of the 18th and 19th.[43] In The Art of Cookery she shows signs of a modern approach to cooking with more focus on savoury dishes—which had a French influence—rather than the more prestigious but dated sweet dishes that had been favoured in the 17th century.[44] In The Compleat Confectioner she writes:

every young lady ought to know both how to make all kind of confectionary, and dress out a desert; in former days, it was look'd on as a great perfection in a young lady to understand all these things, if it was only to give directions to her servants[.][45]

Glasse was not averse to criticising the French or their cooking,[41] and her introduction states:

A Frenchman in his own country will dress a fine dinner of twenty dishes, and all genteel and pretty, for the expence he will put an English lord to for dressing one dish. ... I have heard of a cook that used six pounds of butter to fry twelve eggs; when every body knows ... that half a pound is full enough, or more than need be used: but then it would not be French. So much is the blind folly of this age, that they would rather be imposed on by a French booby, than give encouragement to a good English cook![46]

Despite Glasse's overtly hostile approach to French cuisine, there is, Stead detects, a "love-hate relationship with French cookery, scorn coupled with sneaking admiration".[47] In The Art of Cookery, Glasse introduced a chapter of eight recipes—all detailed and intricate, and all French in origin—with the advice "Read this chapter and you will find how expensive a French cook's sauce is".[48] The first recipe, "The French way of dressing partridges" ends with her comment "This dish I do not recommend; for I think it an odd jumble of trash ... but such receipts as this, is what you have in most books of cookery yet printed."[48] Henry Notaker, in his history of cookery books, observes that Glasse has included what she sees to be a poor recipe, only because her readers would miss it otherwise.[49] Throughout the book she introduced recipes that were French in origin, although these were often anglicised to remove the heavily flavoured sauces from meat dishes.[47][50] With each new publication of the book, the number of non-English recipes rose, with additions from German, Dutch, Indian, Italian, West Indian and American cuisines.[51][h]

 
Glasse's recipe for curry, 1748—the first known written English recipe for the dish

The first edition introduced the first known English-written curry recipe,[i] as well as three recipes for pilau; later versions included additional curry recipes and an Indian pickle.[53][54][j] These—like most of her recipes—contained no measurements or weights of ingredients, although there are some practical directions, including "about as much thyme as will lie on a sixpence".[59][60]

Glasse added not just a recipe for "Welch rabbit" (later sometimes called Welsh rarebit), but also "English Rabbit" and "Scotch Rabbit".[61][k] The book includes a chapter "For Captains of the Sea"—containing recipes for curing and pickling food[62]—and recipes for "A Certain Cure for the Bite of a Mad Dog" (copied from Richard Mead) and a "Receipt [recipe] against the Plague".[63] The 1756 edition also contained an early reference to vanilla in English cuisine[64] and the first recorded use of jelly in trifle; she called the trifle a "floating island".[65][66] Later printings added hamburgers ("hamburgh sausages"), piccalilli ("Paco-Lilla" or "India Pickle")[67] and an early recipe for ice cream.[15] Glasse was the first to use the term "Yorkshire pudding" in print; the recipe had first appeared in the anonymously written 1737 work The Whole Duty of a Woman under the name "dripping pudding".[68]

Anne Willan, in her examination of historical cooks and cookery books, suggests that although it is written in an easy style, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy "can never have been an easy book to use", as there was no alphabetical index in the early editions, and the organisation was erratic in places.[6][l] Although the early versions did not contain an index at the end of the book, they have what Wendy Hall describes in her study "Literacy and the Domestic Arts" as a "jaw-droppingly extensive table of contents that categorized the subject matter over the course of twenty-two pages".[69]

Advice from the 1828 edition

According to the historian Caroline Lieffers, Glasse was part of an increased rationalisation in cookery; although she did not give timings for all her recipes there were more than authors of earlier cookery books had printed.[70] She was also ahead of her time in other respects: she gave a recipe for "pocket soop" years before the introduction of branded stock cube;[71] over a century before Louis Pasteur examined microbiology and sterilisation, Glasse advised cooks, when finishing pickles and jams, to "tye them close with a bladder and a leather" to aid preservation.[8][13] She went to great lengths in her books to stress the need for cleanliness in the house, particularly in the kitchen, where dirty equipment will either mar the flavour or cause illness.[72][73] Her advice reflects the trend of increasing hygiene in England at the time, with piped water more widely available. The food historian Jennifer Stead writes that many visitors to England reported that the servants were clean and well turned out.[72]

In The Art of Cookery, Glasse departs from many of her predecessors and does not provide a section of medical advice—a pattern followed in 1769 by Elizabeth Raffald in The Experienced English Housekeeper—although chapter ten of The Art of Cookery is titled "Directions for the sick", and contains recipes for broth, dishes from boiled and minced meats, caudles, gruel and various drinks, including "artificial asses milk".[74] Glasse also did not give instructions on how to run the household.[75] In her preface, she writes:

I shall not take upon me to meddle in the physical Way farther than two Receipts which will be of Use to the Publick in general: One is for the Bite of a mad Dog; and the other, if a Man shoud be near where the Plague is, he shall be in no Danger; which, if made Use of, would be found of very great Service to those who go Abroad.

Nor shall I take it upon me to direct a Lady in the Oeconomy of her Family, for every Mistress does, or at least ought to know what is most proper to be done there; therefore I shall not fill my Book with a deal of Nonsense of that Kind, which I am very well assur'd none will have Regard to.[76]

Glasse aimed The Art of Cookery at a city-dwelling readership and, unlike many predecessors, there was no reference to "country gentlewomen" or the tradition of the hospitality of the gentry.[77] The Servants' Directory was aimed solely at female members of staff,[78] and each role undertaken by the female staff was examined and explained fully. The historian Una Robertson observes that "the torrent of instructions addressed to 'my little House-maid' must have severely confused that individual, had she been able to read".[79]

Legacy edit

 
Illustrations of various cuts of pork, mutton, veal and beef; from the 1802 edition of The Art of Cookery

Information about Glasse's identity was lost for years.[80] In 1938 Dodds confirmed the connection between her and the Allgood family in an article in Archaeologia Aeliana.[81][82]

The Art of Cookery was the most popular cookery book of the 18th century and went through several reprints after Glasse's death. With over twenty reprints over a hundred years, the last edition was well into the 19th century.[29][83][84] Glasse's work was plagiarised heavily throughout the rest of the 18th and 19th century, including in Isabella Beeton's bestselling Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management (1861).[85][m] The words "plain and easy" from the title were also used by several others.[90][n] Copies of The Art of Cookery were taken to America by travellers, and it became one of the most popular cookery books in colonial America;[84] it was printed in the US in 1805.[13] It is possible that Benjamin Franklin had some of the recipes translated to French for his trip to Paris.[91] Copies of The Servants' Directory were also extensively pirated in America.[2]

The instruction "First catch your hare" is sometimes wrongly attributed to Glasse. The Oxford English Dictionary observes that the use is "(i.e. as the first step to cooking him): a direction jestingly ascribed to Mrs. Glasse's Cookery Book, but of much more recent origin".[92] The mis-provenance is from the recipe for roast hare in The Art of Cookery, which begins "Take your hare when it be cas'd",[60] meaning simply to take a skinned hare.[92] The saying is one of around 400 of her quotations used in the Oxford English Dictionary.[93]

In 1983 Prospect Books published a facsimile of the 1747 edition of The Art of Cookery under the title First Catch Your Hare, with introductory essays by Stead and the food historian Priscilla Bain, and a glossary by the food writer Alan Davidson; it has been reissued several times.[94] When Stead was asked to contribute to the 1983 printing, she examined the 1747 publication and made what Davidson and the food writer Helen Saberi described as a "truly pioneering work", studying each recipe and tracing which of them were original or had been copied from other writers. It was Stead who established that Glasse had copied 342 of them from others.[95] In 2006 Glasse was the subject of a BBC drama-documentary presented by the television cook Clarissa Dickson Wright; Dickson Wright described her subject as the "mother of the modern dinner party" and "the first domestic goddess".[59][96] The 310th anniversary of Glasse's birth was the subject of a Google Doodle on 28 March 2018.[97]

Glasse has been admired by several modern cooks and food writers. The 20th century cookery writer Elizabeth David considers that "it is plain to me that she is reporting at first hand, and sometimes with an original and charming turn of phrase";[82][o] the television cook Fanny Cradock provided a foreword to a reprint of The Art of Cookery in 1971, in which she praised Glasse and her approach. Craddock found the writing easy to follow and thought Glasse an honest cook, who seemed to have tried most of the recipes in the book.[16] The food writer Jane Grigson admired Glasse's work, and in her 1974 book she included many of Glasse's recipes.[p] Dickson Wright affirms that she has "a strong affinity for Hannah Glasse. I admire her straightforward, unpretentious approach to cookery."[102] For Dickson Wright, "she is one of the greats of English food history."[103]

Notes and references edit

Notes edit

  1. ^ Lancelot became the high sheriff and Tory MP and the High Sheriff of Northumberland; he was later knighted.[2]
  2. ^ Some sources give the date of first publication as 1746.[2][5]
  3. ^ £10,000 in 1754 equates to around £1,614,000 in 2024, according to calculations based on the Consumer Price Index measure of inflation.[22]
  4. ^ The stock from the shop was not sold to pay the debts: it was held in Margaret's name.[2]
  5. ^ Allgood had accused Cook's husband—the landlord of a local pub—of cheating him over some wine. Cook had debts he could not pay and was sent to a debtors' prison; Ann Cook blamed Allgood for the family's troubles.[29]
  6. ^ The full title of the work was The Servant's Directory: Or House-keeper's Companion: Wherein the Duties of the Chamber-Maid, Nursery-Maid, House-Maid, Landery-Maid, Scullion, Or Under-Cook, Are Fully and Distinctly Explained. To which is Annexed a Diary, Or House-keeper's Pocket-book for the Whole Year. With Directions for Keeping Accounts with Tradesmen, and Many Other Particulars, Fit to be Known by the Mistress of a Family. By H. Glass, Author of The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy.[31]
  7. ^ 1762 is another year given for the publication.[34]
  8. ^ Additions include "sour crout", "Chickens and turkies dressed after the Dutch way", "fricasey of calves feet and chaldron, after the Italian way", additional recipes for curry and pilau, "turtle dressed the West India way", "mutton kebobbed", "Carolina Rice pudding" and "Carolina Snow-Balls".[51]
  9. ^ The 20th century cookery writer Elizabeth David describes the recipe as "a quite simple formula for a kind of fricassee of chicken spiced with turmeric, ginger and pepper 'beat very fine'".[52]
  10. ^ Glasse spelled pilau as "pellow" or "pelow", and her early recipes are titled "To Make a Pellow the India Way",[55] "Another Way to Make a Pellow"[56] and "To Make a Pelow".[57] The "India Pickle" was introduced in the fifth edition and consisted 1 imperial gallon (1.2 U.S. gal; 4.5 L) of vinegar, 1 pound (0.45 kg) of garlic, long pepper, mustard seeds, ginger and turmeric.[58]
  11. ^ Scotch Rabbit is bread toasted on both sides, with cheese then melted on top; Welch Rabbit is bread toasted on both sides, with cheese then melted on top and mustard added; English Rabbit is bread toasted on both sides, then soaked in red wine, cheese put on top, placed in a tin oven to toast and brown further.[61]
  12. ^ As an example of the disarrayed layout of the book, Willian highlights the nine identical recipes of gravy that appear spread over four chapters.[6]
  13. ^ Other works that copied Glasse include Martha Bradley's 1756 partwork British Housewife,[86] William Gelleroy's The London Cook (1762),[87] John Farley's 1783 work The London Art of Cookery[88] and William Henderson's The Housekeeper's Instructor (1791).[89]
  14. ^ These included The Cookmaid's Assistant, or Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy by Elizabeth Clifton (1750), Arabella Fairfax's 1753 work Family's Best Friend: or the whole Art of Cookery, made Plain and Easy (1753) and the later editions (from 1754 onwards) of Penelope Bradshaw's The Family Jewel, and Compleat Housewife's Companion: Or, The Whole Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy.[90]
  15. ^ David referenced Glasse several times in her 1970 work Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen,[98] and again in Harvest of the Cold Months (1994).[99] In her 1977 book English Bread and Yeast Cookery, David used recipes for French bread, "bread made without the use of a barm", muffins and oatcakes, yeast dumplings and saffron cake.[100]
  16. ^ These were Welsh, Scottish and English rabbit (rarebit), potted cheese, a fricassee of eggs, a white fricassee of mushrooms, Yorkshire pudding, salmagundi, rabbit casserole, Cheshire pork and apple pie, Yorkshire Christmas pye, Goose pye, whim-wham (a form of trifle), chocolate pie, and a compote of bon chrétiens pears.[101]

References edit

  1. ^ Dodds 1938, pp. 43–44.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t Robb-Smith 2004.
  3. ^ a b c Dickson Wright 2011, 3650.
  4. ^ Dickson Wright 2011, 3662.
  5. ^ a b c Dickson Wright 2011, 3661.
  6. ^ a b c d e f Willan 1992, p. 100.
  7. ^ Coyle 1985, p. 49.
  8. ^ a b c d Glasse 1748, p. i.
  9. ^ Lehman 2003, 1976.
  10. ^ Hardy 2011, p. 58.
  11. ^ Glasse 1748, Title page.
  12. ^ Hoare 2014.
  13. ^ a b c d Snodgrass 2004, p. 442.
  14. ^ Willan 1992, pp. 100–101.
  15. ^ a b c d David 2001, p. 266.
  16. ^ a b Coyle 1985, pp. 49–50.
  17. ^ Stead 2002, pp. 335–336.
  18. ^ a b c "Hannah Glasse (Biographical details)". The British Museum.
  19. ^ a b Boswell 1906, pp. 287–288.
  20. ^ a b Stead 2002, p. 350.
  21. ^ a b c Willan 1992, p. 101.
  22. ^ Clark 2018.
  23. ^ "By the King's Patent". The London Gazette.
  24. ^ "Professed Cookery". WorldCat.
  25. ^ Stead 2002, p. 346.
  26. ^ Dodds 1938, p. 49.
  27. ^ Lehman 2003, 2065.
  28. ^ Dodds 1938, p. 50.
  29. ^ a b Aylett & Ordish 1965, p. 120.
  30. ^ Dodds 1938, pp. 47–48.
  31. ^ Dodds 1938, p. 48.
  32. ^ "The Compleat Confectioner". WorldCat.
  33. ^ Quayle 1978, p. 82.
  34. ^ Quinzio 2009, p. 219.
  35. ^ Lucraft 1993, p. 46.
  36. ^ Davidson 2014, p. 350.
  37. ^ Lehman 2003, 2358.
  38. ^ Willan & Cherniavsky 2012, p. 215.
  39. ^ Glasse 1772, Index.
  40. ^ "Notices". The Newcastle Courant.
  41. ^ a b Dickson Wright 2011, 3709.
  42. ^ Lehman 2003, 2375.
  43. ^ Lehman 2003, 2377.
  44. ^ Lehman 2003, 1971.
  45. ^ Glasse 1772, p. 252.
  46. ^ Glasse 1748, p. iii.
  47. ^ a b Stead 2002, p. 348.
  48. ^ a b Glasse 1748, p. 103.
  49. ^ Notaker 2017, p. 76.
  50. ^ Lehman 2003, 2325.
  51. ^ a b Bickham 2008, p. 99.
  52. ^ David 1975, p. 11n.
  53. ^ Collingham 2006, p. 137.
  54. ^ Burnett & Saberi 2006, 268.
  55. ^ Glasse 1748, p. 101.
  56. ^ Glasse 1748, p. 102.
  57. ^ Glasse 1748, p. 244.
  58. ^ Colquhoun 2007, p. 209.
  59. ^ a b Prince 2006.
  60. ^ a b Glasse 1748, p. 6.
  61. ^ a b Glasse 1748, p. 190.
  62. ^ Glasse 1748, pp. 240–248.
  63. ^ Glasse 1748, pp. 328–329.
  64. ^ David 1975, p. 57.
  65. ^ Glasse 1748, p. 290.
  66. ^ Colquhoun 2007, p. 229.
  67. ^ Sommerlad 2018.
  68. ^ Collingham 2006, pp. 202, 405.
  69. ^ Hall 2010, p. 395.
  70. ^ Lieffers 2012, pp. 938, 947.
  71. ^ Walker 2013, p. 93.
  72. ^ a b Stead 2002, p. 342.
  73. ^ Snodgrass 2004, pp. 442, 871.
  74. ^ Glasse 1748, pp. 233–239.
  75. ^ Lehman 2003, 2580.
  76. ^ Glasse 1748, p. iv.
  77. ^ Lehman 2003, 2900.
  78. ^ Robertson 1997, p. 182.
  79. ^ Robertson 1997, p. 67.
  80. ^ Aylett & Ordish 1965, p. 113.
  81. ^ Dodds 1938, pp. 43–68.
  82. ^ a b David 2001, p. 268.
  83. ^ Stead 2002, p. 333.
  84. ^ a b Smith 2013, p. 401.
  85. ^ Hughes 2006, p. 206.
  86. ^ Lehman 2003, 2248.
  87. ^ Lehman 2003, 2501.
  88. ^ Lucraft 1992, p. 7.
  89. ^ David 1979, p. 344.
  90. ^ a b Lehman 2003, 2091.
  91. ^ Hess & Hess 2000, p. 85.
  92. ^ a b "first catch your hare". Oxford English Dictionary.
  93. ^ Brewer 2012, p. 103.
  94. ^ "Formats and Editions of First Catch your Hare". Worldcat.
  95. ^ Davidson & Saberi 2002, p. 263.
  96. ^ "Hannah Glasse – the First Domestic Goddess". BBC Genome.
  97. ^ "Hannah Glasse's 310th Birthday". Google.
  98. ^ David 1975, pp. 11n, 51, 57, 229, 249.
  99. ^ David 1996, pp. 104, 105, 310, 312–314, 316.
  100. ^ David 1979, pp. 99, 299, 343–344, 418, 445.
  101. ^ (Grigson 1993, pp. 31, 33, 37, 58, 139, 191, 225, 231, 240–241, 242, 260, 271–272, 283); recipes cited respectively.
  102. ^ Dickson Wright 2011, 3825.
  103. ^ Dickson Wright 2011, 3838.

Sources edit

Books edit

  • Aylett, Mary; Ordish, Olive (1965). First Catch Your Hare. London: Macdonald. OCLC 54053.
  • Boswell, James (1906). Life of Johnson. London: Constable & Co. OCLC 221732294.
  • Burnett, David; Saberi, Helen (2006). The Road to Vindaloo: Curry Cooks & Curry Books (Kindle ed.). London: Marion Boyars. ISBN 978-1-909248-12-0.
  • Collingham, Alan (2006). Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors. London: Vintage. ISBN 978-0-0994-3786-4.
  • Colquhoun, Kate (2007). Taste: the Story of Britain Through its Cooking. New York: Bloomsbury. ISBN 978-1-5969-1410-0.
  • Coyle, L. Patrick (1985). Cooks' Books: An Affectionate Guide to the Literature of Food and Cooking. New York: Fact on File. ISBN 978-0-87196-683-4.
  • David, Elizabeth (1975) [1970]. Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen. Harmondsworth, Middlesex: Penguin. ISBN 978-0-1404-6796-3.
  • David, Elizabeth (2001) [2000]. Is There a Nutmeg in the House?. Jill Norman (ed). London: Penguin. ISBN 978-0-14-029290-9.
  • David, Elizabeth (1979) [1977]. English Bread and Yeast Cookery. Harmondsworth: Penguin. ISBN 978-0-1402-9974-8.
  • David, Elizabeth (1996) [1994]. Harvest of the Cold Months: The Social History of Ice and Ices. London: Michael Joseph. ISBN 978-0-14-017641-4.
  • Davidson, Alan (2014). The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN 978-0-19-104072-6. from the original on 29 March 2021.
  • Davidson, Alan; Saberi, Helen, eds. (2002). The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy: Twenty Years of the Best Food Writing From the Journal Petits Propos Culinaires. Berkeley, CA: Ten Speed Press. ISBN 978-1-5800-8417-8.
  • Dickson Wright, Clarissa (2011). A History of English Food (Kindle ed.). London: Random House. ISBN 978-1-4481-0745-2.
  • Glasse, Hannah (1748). The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (Third ed.). London: Published by the author. OCLC 938365682.
  • Glasse, Hannah (1772). The Compleat Confectioner: Or, The Whole Art of Confectionary Made Plain and Easy. London: J. Cooke. OCLC 28134185.
  • Grigson, Jane (1993) [1974]. English Food. London: Penguin. ISBN 978-0-1410-4586-3.
  • Hardy, Sheila (2011). The Real Mrs Beeton: The Story of Eliza Acton. Stroud, Gloucestershire: The History Press. ISBN 978-0-7524-6122-9.
  • Hess, John L.; Hess, Karen (2000). The Taste of America. Champaign, IL: University of Illinois Press. ISBN 978-0-252-06875-1. from the original on 29 March 2021.
  • Hughes, Kathryn (2006). The Short Life and Long Times of Mrs Beeton. London: HarperCollins Publishers. ISBN 978-0-7524-6122-9. from the original on 3 November 2020.
  • Lehman, Gilly (2003). The British Housewife: Cooking and Society in 18th-century Britain (Kindle ed.). Totness, Devon: Prospect Books. ISBN 978-1-909248-00-7.
  • Notaker, Henry (2017). A History of Cookbooks: From Kitchen to Page over Seven Centuries. Oakland, CA: University of California Press. ISBN 978-0-520-96728-1. from the original on 1 August 2020.
  • Quayle, Eric (1978). Old Cook Books: An Illustrated History. London: Cassell. ISBN 978-0-289-70707-4.
  • Quinzio, Geraldine M. (2009). Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press. ISBN 978-0-520-94296-7.
  • Robertson, Una (1997). An Illustrated History of the Housewife, 1650–1950. New York: St. Martin's Press. ISBN 978-0-3121-7712-6.
  • Smith, Andrew F. (2013). Food and Drink in American History: A "Full Course" Encyclopedia. Santa Barbara, CA: ABC-CLIO. ISBN 978-1-61069-233-5. from the original on 29 March 2021.
  • Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (2004). Encyclopedia of Kitchen History. Abingdon, Oxfordshire: Routledge. ISBN 978-1-135-45572-9. from the original on 18 October 2020.
  • Stead, Jennifer (2002). "Quizzing Glasse, or Hannah Scrutinzed". In Davidson, Alan; Saberi, Helen (eds.). The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy: Twenty Years of the Best Food Writing From the Journal Petits Propos Culinaires. Berkeley, CA: Ten Speed Press. pp. 333–352. ISBN 978-1-5800-8417-8.
  • Walker, Julian (2013). Discovering Words in the Kitchen. London: Bloomsbury Publishing. ISBN 978-0-7478-0952-4. from the original on 1 August 2020.
  • Willan, Anne (1992). Great Cooks and their Recipes. London: Pavilion Books. ISBN 978-1-85145-596-6.
  • Willan, Anne; Cherniavsky, Mark (2012). The Cookbook Library: Four Centuries of the Cooks, Writers, and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press. ISBN 978-0-520-24400-9. from the original on 29 March 2021.

Journals edit

  • Bickham, Troy (February 2008). "Eating the Empire: Intersections of Food, Cookery and Imperialism in Eighteenth-Century Britain". Past & Present (198): 71–109. doi:10.1093/pastj/gtm054. JSTOR 25096701.
  • Brewer, Charlotte (February 2012). "'Happy Copiousness'? OED's Recording of Female Authors of the Eighteenth Century". The Review of English Studies. 63 (258): 86–117. doi:10.1093/res/hgq102. JSTOR 41410091.
  • "By the King's Patent". The London Gazette. No. 9416. 15 October 1754. p. 4.
  • Dodds, Madeline Hope (1938). "The Rival Cooks: Hannah Glasse and Ann Cook" (PDF). Archaeologia Aeliana. 4 (15): 43–68. from the original on 29 October 2019.
  • Hall, Wendy (September 2010). "Literacy and the Domestic Arts". Huntington Library Quarterly. 73 (3): 383–412. doi:10.1525/hlq.2010.73.3.383.
  • Lieffers, Caroline (June 2012). "'The Present Time is Eminently Scientific': The Science of Cookery in Nineteenth-Century Britain". Journal of Social History. 45 (4): 936–959. doi:10.1093/jsh/shr106. JSTOR 41678945.
  • Lucraft, Fiona (1992). "The London Art of Plagiarism, Part One". Petits Propos Culinaires. 42: 7–24. ISSN 0142-7857.
  • Lucraft, Fiona (1993). "The London Art of Plagiarism, Part Two". Petits Propos Culinaires. 43: 34–46. ISSN 0142-7857.

News edit

  • "Notices". The Newcastle Courant. 8 September 1770. p. 2.
  • Prince, Rose (24 June 2006). "Hannah Glasse: The original domestic goddess". The Independent. from the original on 7 June 2010. Retrieved 27 March 2018.
  • Sommerlad, Joe (28 March 2018). "Hannah Glasse: How the British writer's seminal recipe book democratised cookery". The Independent. from the original on 21 May 2019. Retrieved 14 March 2019.

Internet edit

  • Clark, Gregory (2018). "The Annual RPI and Average Earnings for Britain, 1209 to Present (New Series)". MeasuringWorth. from the original on 17 December 2017. Retrieved 30 January 2018.
  • "The Compleat Confectioner". WorldCat. from the original on 29 March 2021. Retrieved 15 March 2019.
  • "first catch your hare". Oxford English Dictionary (Online ed.). Oxford University Press. Retrieved 10 March 2019. (Subscription or participating institution membership required.)
  • "Formats and Editions of First Catch your Hare: the Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747)". Worldcat. from the original on 29 March 2021. Retrieved 17 March 2019.
  • "Hannah Glasse's 310th Birthday". Google. from the original on 26 March 2019. Retrieved 16 March 2019.
  • "Hannah Glasse (Biographical details)". The British Museum. from the original on 29 March 2021. Retrieved 7 March 2019.
  • "Hannah Glasse – the First Domestic Goddess". BBC Genome. from the original on 29 March 2021. Retrieved 16 March 2019.
  • Hoare, Charlotte (19 May 2014). "The Art of Cookery / by a lady". St John's College Cambridge. from the original on 26 February 2019. Retrieved 7 March 2019.
  • "Professed Cookery". WorldCat. from the original on 29 March 2021. Retrieved 13 March 2019.
  • Robb-Smith, A. H. T. (2004). "Glasse [née Allgood], Hannah (bap. 1708, d. 1770)". Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. Oxford University Press. doi:10.1093/ref:odnb/10804. (subscription or UK public library membership required)

External links edit

  • "Extract of Art of Cookery". from the British Library (and biographical information)
  • Works by Hannah Glasse at LibriVox (public domain audiobooks)  

hannah, glasse, née, allgood, march, 1708, september, 1770, english, cookery, writer, 18th, century, first, cookery, book, cookery, made, plain, easy, published, 1747, became, best, selling, recipe, book, that, century, reprinted, within, first, year, publicat. Hannah Glasse nee Allgood March 1708 1 September 1770 was an English cookery writer of the 18th century Her first cookery book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy published in 1747 became the best selling recipe book that century It was reprinted within its first year of publication appeared in 20 editions in the 18th century and continued to be published until well into the 19th century She later wrote The Servants Directory 1760 and The Compleat Confectioner which was probably published in 1760 neither book was as commercially successful as her first Hannah GlasseGlasse s signature at the top of the first chapter of her book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy 6th Edition 1758BornHannah AllgoodMarch 1708London EnglandDied1 September 1770 1770 09 01 aged 62 London EnglandOccupationCookery writer dressmakerNotable worksThe Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy 1747 SpouseJohn Glasse m 1724 1747 wbr Children10 or 11Glasse was born in London to a Northumberland landowner and his mistress After the relationship ended Glasse was brought up in her father s family When she was 16 she eloped with a 30 year old Irish subaltern then on half pay and lived in Essex working on the estate of the Earls of Donegall The couple struggled financially and with the aim of raising money Glasse wrote The Art of Cookery She copied extensively from other cookery books around a third of the recipes having been published elsewhere Among her original recipes are the first known curry recipe written in English as well as three recipes for pilau an early reference to vanilla in English cuisine the first recorded use of jelly in trifle and an early recipe for ice cream She was also the first to use the term Yorkshire pudding in print Glasse became a dressmaker in Covent Garden where her clients included Princess Augusta the Princess of Wales but she ran up excessive debts She was imprisoned for bankruptcy and was forced to sell the copyright of The Art of Cookery Much of Glasse s later life is unrecorded information about her identity was lost until uncovered in 1938 by the historian Madeleine Hope Dodds Other authors plagiarised Glasse s writing and pirated copies became common particularly in the United States The Art of Cookery has been admired by English cooks in the second part of the 20th century and influenced many of them including Elizabeth David Fanny Cradock and Clarissa Dickson Wright Contents 1 Biography 1 1 Early life 1 2 The Art of Cookery 1 3 Later years 2 Books 3 Legacy 4 Notes and references 4 1 Notes 4 2 References 4 3 Sources 4 3 1 Books 4 3 2 Journals 4 3 3 News 4 3 4 Internet 5 External linksBiography editEarly life edit nbsp St Andrews Holborn where Glasse was christened Glasse was born Hannah Allgood at Greville Street Hatton Garden London to Isaac Allgood and his mistress Hannah Reynolds Isaac a landowner and coal mine owner was from a well known respected family from Nunwick Hall Hexham Northumberland he was married to Hannah nee Clark the daughter of Isaac of London a vintner 1 2 Glasse was christened on 24 March 1708 at St Andrews Holborn London 3 Allgood and Reynolds had two other children both of whom died young Allgood and his wife also had a child Lancelot born three years after Glasse 2 a Allgood took Reynolds and the young Hannah back to Hexham to live and she was brought up with his other children but according to A H T Robb Smith in the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography Reynolds was banished from Hexham no reason is recorded 2 3 By 1713 Allgood and Reynolds were again living together back in London The following year while drunk Allgood signed papers transferring all his property to Reynolds Once he realised the magnitude of his mistake the couple separated The Allgood family tried to have the property returned which they managed in 1740 providing Glasse with an annual income and a sum of capital 2 She did not have a good relationship with her mother who had little input into her daughter s upbringing Glasse described her in correspondence as a wicked wretch 4 Soon after the death of his wife in 1724 Allgood fell ill and Glasse was sent to live with her grandmother Although Glasse was banned from attending social events by her grandmother she began a relationship with an older man John Glasse He was a 30 year old Irish subaltern then on half pay who had previously been employed by Lord Polwarth John was a widower 2 5 6 On 4 August 1724 the couple were secretly married by special licence Her family found out about the marriage a month later when she moved out of her grandmother s house and in with her husband in Piccadilly 2 Although her family were angered by the relationship they soon resumed cordial dealings and continued a warm and friendly correspondence 2 7 Hannah s first letter to her grandmother apologised for the secrecy surrounding her elopement but did not express regret for getting married I am sorry at what I have done but only the manner of it 6 By 1728 the Glasses were living in New Hall Broomfield Essex the home of the 4th Earl of Donegall John Glasse was probably working as an estate steward They had their first child while living at New Hall 5 The Glasses moved back to London in November 1734 where they lodged for four years before moving to Greville Street near Hatton Garden Over the coming years Glasse gave birth to ten children five of whom died young She considered education important and sent her daughters to good local schools and her sons to Eton and Westminster The couple struggled constantly with finances and in 1744 Glasse tried to sell Daffy s Elixir a patent medicine the project did not take off She then decided to write a cookery book 2 6 The Art of Cookery edit Frontispieces from two editions of The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy nbsp The 1770 edition nbsp The 1828 edition In a letter dated January 1746 Glasse wrote My book goes on very well and everybody is pleased with it it is now in the press 6 The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy was printed the following year and sold at Mrs Ashburn s a China Shop the corner of Fleet Ditch according to the title page 8 b The book was available bound for 5 shillings or plainly stitched for 3 shillings 9 As was the practice for publishers at the time Glasse provided the names of subscribers those who had pre paid for a copy who were listed inside the work The first edition listed 202 subscribers that number increased for the second and third editions 2 10 On the title page Glasse writes that the book far exceeds any Thing of the Kind ever yet published 11 In the introduction she states I believe I have attempted a Branch of Cookery which Nobody has yet thought worth their while to write upon 8 which she explains is to write a book aimed at the domestic staff of a household As such she apologises to readers If I have not wrote in the high polite Stile I hope I shall be forgiven for my Intention is to instruct the lower Sort and therefore must treat them in their own Way 8 Glasse extensively used other sources during the writing of the 972 recipes in the first edition 342 of them had been copied or adapted from other works 12 13 This plagiarism was typical of the time as under the Statute of Anne the 1709 act of parliament dealing with copyright protection recipes were not safeguarded against copyright infringement 14 15 The chapter on cream was taken in full from Eliza Smith s 1727 work The Compleat Housewife 16 and in the meat section 17 consecutive recipes were copied from The Whole Duty of a Woman although Glasse had rewritten the scant instructions intended for experienced cooks into more complete instructions for the less proficient 17 A second edition of The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy appeared before the year was out and nine further versions were published by 1765 The early editions of the book did not reveal its authorship using the vague cover By a Lady it was not until the fourth imprint published in 1751 that Glasse s name appeared on the title page 15 18 The absence of an author s name permitted the erroneous claim that it was written by John Hill 18 in James Boswell s Life of Johnson Boswell recounts a dinner with Samuel Johnson and the publisher Charles Dilly Dilly stated that Mrs Glasse s Cookery which is the best was written by Dr Hill Half the trade know this 19 Johnson was doubtful of the connection because of confusion in the book between saltpetre and sal prunella a mistake Hill would not have made Despite this Johnson thought it was a male writer and said Women can spin very well but they cannot make a good book of cookery 19 Later years edit The same year in which the first edition was published John Glasse died He was buried at St Mary s church Broomfield on 21 June 1747 That year Glasse set herself up as a habit maker or dressmaker in Tavistock Street Covent Garden in partnership with her eldest daughter Margaret 2 The fourth edition of her book included a full page advertisement for her shop which said she was the habit maker to Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales Princess Augusta 15 18 When her half brother Lancelot came to stay with her he wrote Hannah has so many coaches at her door that to judge from appearances she must succeed in her business she has great visitors with her no less than the Prince and Princess of Wales to see her masquerade dresses 20 Glasse was not successful in her line of business and after borrowing heavily she was declared bankrupt in May 1754 with debts of 10 000 2 21 c Among the assets sold off to pay her debts was the copyright of The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy to Andrew Miller and a conger of booksellers and 3 000 copies of the fifth edition the syndicate held the rights for the next fifty years It is not clear what subsequent involvement Glasse had in any of the printings after the fifth 20 23 d She was issued with a certificate of conformity which marked the end of her bankruptcy in January 1755 2 nbsp Section of the first page of The Compleat Confectioner 1772 edition In 1754 the cookery book Professed Cookery containing boiling roasting pastry preserving potting pickling made wines gellies and part of confectionaries was published by Ann Cook 24 The book contained what was titled an essay upon the lady s Art of Cookery which was an attack on Glasse and The Art of Cookery 25 described by the historian Madeleine Hope Dodds as a violent onslaught 26 and by the historian Gilly Lehman as appalling doggerel 27 Dodds established that Cook had been in a feud with Lancelot Allgood and used the book to gain a measure of revenge against him 28 e Glasse continued to live at her Tavistock Street home until 1757 but her financial troubles continued and she was imprisoned as a debtor at Marshalsea gaol in June that year before being transferred to Fleet Prison a month later By December she had been released and registered three shares in The Servants Directory a work she was writing on how to manage a household 2 30 f it included several blank pages at the end for recording kitchen accounts 13 The work was published in 1760 but was not commercially successful 2 21 Glasse also wrote The Compleat Confectioner which was published undated but probably in 1760 32 33 g As she had with her first book Glasse plagiarised the work of others for this new work 35 particularly from Edwards Lambert s 1744 work The Art of Confectionery 36 but also from Smith s Compleat Housewife and The Family Magazine 1741 37 Glasse s work contained the essentials of sweet cake and ices making including how to boil sugar to the required stages making custards and syllabubs preserving and distilled drinks 38 39 There are no records that relate to Glasse s final ten years 2 21 In 1770 The Newcastle Courant announced Last week died in London Mrs Glasse only sister to Sir Lancelot Allgood of Nunwick in Northumberland 40 referring to her death on 1 September 2 Books editThe Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy consists mainly of English recipes and is aimed at providing good affordable food 41 and the television cook Clarissa Dickson Wright saw the work as a masterly summary of English cuisine of well to do households in the mid 18th century 3 Glasse saw that household education for young ladies no longer included confectionery and grand desserts 42 and many of the recipes in The Compleat Confectioner move away from the banqueting dishes of the 17th century to new style desserts of the 18th and 19th 43 In The Art of Cookery she shows signs of a modern approach to cooking with more focus on savoury dishes which had a French influence rather than the more prestigious but dated sweet dishes that had been favoured in the 17th century 44 In The Compleat Confectioner she writes every young lady ought to know both how to make all kind of confectionary and dress out a desert in former days it was look d on as a great perfection in a young lady to understand all these things if it was only to give directions to her servants 45 Glasse was not averse to criticising the French or their cooking 41 and her introduction states A Frenchman in his own country will dress a fine dinner of twenty dishes and all genteel and pretty for the expence he will put an English lord to for dressing one dish I have heard of a cook that used six pounds of butter to fry twelve eggs when every body knows that half a pound is full enough or more than need be used but then it would not be French So much is the blind folly of this age that they would rather be imposed on by a French booby than give encouragement to a good English cook 46 Despite Glasse s overtly hostile approach to French cuisine there is Stead detects a love hate relationship with French cookery scorn coupled with sneaking admiration 47 In The Art of Cookery Glasse introduced a chapter of eight recipes all detailed and intricate and all French in origin with the advice Read this chapter and you will find how expensive a French cook s sauce is 48 The first recipe The French way of dressing partridges ends with her comment This dish I do not recommend for I think it an odd jumble of trash but such receipts as this is what you have in most books of cookery yet printed 48 Henry Notaker in his history of cookery books observes that Glasse has included what she sees to be a poor recipe only because her readers would miss it otherwise 49 Throughout the book she introduced recipes that were French in origin although these were often anglicised to remove the heavily flavoured sauces from meat dishes 47 50 With each new publication of the book the number of non English recipes rose with additions from German Dutch Indian Italian West Indian and American cuisines 51 h nbsp Glasse s recipe for curry 1748 the first known written English recipe for the dishThe first edition introduced the first known English written curry recipe i as well as three recipes for pilau later versions included additional curry recipes and an Indian pickle 53 54 j These like most of her recipes contained no measurements or weights of ingredients although there are some practical directions including about as much thyme as will lie on a sixpence 59 60 Glasse added not just a recipe for Welch rabbit later sometimes called Welsh rarebit but also English Rabbit and Scotch Rabbit 61 k The book includes a chapter For Captains of the Sea containing recipes for curing and pickling food 62 and recipes for A Certain Cure for the Bite of a Mad Dog copied from Richard Mead and a Receipt recipe against the Plague 63 The 1756 edition also contained an early reference to vanilla in English cuisine 64 and the first recorded use of jelly in trifle she called the trifle a floating island 65 66 Later printings added hamburgers hamburgh sausages piccalilli Paco Lilla or India Pickle 67 and an early recipe for ice cream 15 Glasse was the first to use the term Yorkshire pudding in print the recipe had first appeared in the anonymously written 1737 work The Whole Duty of a Woman under the name dripping pudding 68 Anne Willan in her examination of historical cooks and cookery books suggests that although it is written in an easy style The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy can never have been an easy book to use as there was no alphabetical index in the early editions and the organisation was erratic in places 6 l Although the early versions did not contain an index at the end of the book they have what Wendy Hall describes in her study Literacy and the Domestic Arts as a jaw droppingly extensive table of contents that categorized the subject matter over the course of twenty two pages 69 Advice from the 1828 edition nbsp Trussing nbsp Carving According to the historian Caroline Lieffers Glasse was part of an increased rationalisation in cookery although she did not give timings for all her recipes there were more than authors of earlier cookery books had printed 70 She was also ahead of her time in other respects she gave a recipe for pocket soop years before the introduction of branded stock cube 71 over a century before Louis Pasteur examined microbiology and sterilisation Glasse advised cooks when finishing pickles and jams to tye them close with a bladder and a leather to aid preservation 8 13 She went to great lengths in her books to stress the need for cleanliness in the house particularly in the kitchen where dirty equipment will either mar the flavour or cause illness 72 73 Her advice reflects the trend of increasing hygiene in England at the time with piped water more widely available The food historian Jennifer Stead writes that many visitors to England reported that the servants were clean and well turned out 72 In The Art of Cookery Glasse departs from many of her predecessors and does not provide a section of medical advice a pattern followed in 1769 by Elizabeth Raffald in The Experienced English Housekeeper although chapter ten of The Art of Cookery is titled Directions for the sick and contains recipes for broth dishes from boiled and minced meats caudles gruel and various drinks including artificial asses milk 74 Glasse also did not give instructions on how to run the household 75 In her preface she writes I shall not take upon me to meddle in the physical Way farther than two Receipts which will be of Use to the Publick in general One is for the Bite of a mad Dog and the other if a Man shoud be near where the Plague is he shall be in no Danger which if made Use of would be found of very great Service to those who go Abroad Nor shall I take it upon me to direct a Lady in the Oeconomy of her Family for every Mistress does or at least ought to know what is most proper to be done there therefore I shall not fill my Book with a deal of Nonsense of that Kind which I am very well assur d none will have Regard to 76 Glasse aimed The Art of Cookery at a city dwelling readership and unlike many predecessors there was no reference to country gentlewomen or the tradition of the hospitality of the gentry 77 The Servants Directory was aimed solely at female members of staff 78 and each role undertaken by the female staff was examined and explained fully The historian Una Robertson observes that the torrent of instructions addressed to my little House maid must have severely confused that individual had she been able to read 79 Legacy edit nbsp Illustrations of various cuts of pork mutton veal and beef from the 1802 edition of The Art of CookeryInformation about Glasse s identity was lost for years 80 In 1938 Dodds confirmed the connection between her and the Allgood family in an article in Archaeologia Aeliana 81 82 The Art of Cookery was the most popular cookery book of the 18th century and went through several reprints after Glasse s death With over twenty reprints over a hundred years the last edition was well into the 19th century 29 83 84 Glasse s work was plagiarised heavily throughout the rest of the 18th and 19th century including in Isabella Beeton s bestselling Mrs Beeton s Book of Household Management 1861 85 m The words plain and easy from the title were also used by several others 90 n Copies of The Art of Cookery were taken to America by travellers and it became one of the most popular cookery books in colonial America 84 it was printed in the US in 1805 13 It is possible that Benjamin Franklin had some of the recipes translated to French for his trip to Paris 91 Copies of The Servants Directory were also extensively pirated in America 2 The instruction First catch your hare is sometimes wrongly attributed to Glasse The Oxford English Dictionary observes that the use is i e as the first step to cooking him a direction jestingly ascribed to Mrs Glasse s Cookery Book but of much more recent origin 92 The mis provenance is from the recipe for roast hare in The Art of Cookery which begins Take your hare when it be cas d 60 meaning simply to take a skinned hare 92 The saying is one of around 400 of her quotations used in the Oxford English Dictionary 93 In 1983 Prospect Books published a facsimile of the 1747 edition of The Art of Cookery under the title First Catch Your Hare with introductory essays by Stead and the food historian Priscilla Bain and a glossary by the food writer Alan Davidson it has been reissued several times 94 When Stead was asked to contribute to the 1983 printing she examined the 1747 publication and made what Davidson and the food writer Helen Saberi described as a truly pioneering work studying each recipe and tracing which of them were original or had been copied from other writers It was Stead who established that Glasse had copied 342 of them from others 95 In 2006 Glasse was the subject of a BBC drama documentary presented by the television cook Clarissa Dickson Wright Dickson Wright described her subject as the mother of the modern dinner party and the first domestic goddess 59 96 The 310th anniversary of Glasse s birth was the subject of a Google Doodle on 28 March 2018 97 Glasse has been admired by several modern cooks and food writers The 20th century cookery writer Elizabeth David considers that it is plain to me that she is reporting at first hand and sometimes with an original and charming turn of phrase 82 o the television cook Fanny Cradock provided a foreword to a reprint of The Art of Cookery in 1971 in which she praised Glasse and her approach Craddock found the writing easy to follow and thought Glasse an honest cook who seemed to have tried most of the recipes in the book 16 The food writer Jane Grigson admired Glasse s work and in her 1974 book she included many of Glasse s recipes p Dickson Wright affirms that she has a strong affinity for Hannah Glasse I admire her straightforward unpretentious approach to cookery 102 For Dickson Wright she is one of the greats of English food history 103 Notes and references editNotes edit Lancelot became the high sheriff and Tory MP and the High Sheriff of Northumberland he was later knighted 2 Some sources give the date of first publication as 1746 2 5 10 000 in 1754 equates to around 1 614 000 in 2024 according to calculations based on the Consumer Price Index measure of inflation 22 The stock from the shop was not sold to pay the debts it was held in Margaret s name 2 Allgood had accused Cook s husband the landlord of a local pub of cheating him over some wine Cook had debts he could not pay and was sent to a debtors prison Ann Cook blamed Allgood for the family s troubles 29 The full title of the work was The Servant s Directory Or House keeper s Companion Wherein the Duties of the Chamber Maid Nursery Maid House Maid Landery Maid Scullion Or Under Cook Are Fully and Distinctly Explained To which is Annexed a Diary Or House keeper s Pocket book for the Whole Year With Directions for Keeping Accounts with Tradesmen and Many Other Particulars Fit to be Known by the Mistress of a Family By H Glass Author of The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy 31 1762 is another year given for the publication 34 Additions include sour crout Chickens and turkies dressed after the Dutch way fricasey of calves feet and chaldron after the Italian way additional recipes for curry and pilau turtle dressed the West India way mutton kebobbed Carolina Rice pudding and Carolina Snow Balls 51 The 20th century cookery writer Elizabeth David describes the recipe as a quite simple formula for a kind of fricassee of chicken spiced with turmeric ginger and pepper beat very fine 52 Glasse spelled pilau as pellow or pelow and her early recipes are titled To Make a Pellow the India Way 55 Another Way to Make a Pellow 56 and To Make a Pelow 57 The India Pickle was introduced in the fifth edition and consisted 1 imperial gallon 1 2 U S gal 4 5 L of vinegar 1 pound 0 45 kg of garlic long pepper mustard seeds ginger and turmeric 58 Scotch Rabbit is bread toasted on both sides with cheese then melted on top Welch Rabbit is bread toasted on both sides with cheese then melted on top and mustard added English Rabbit is bread toasted on both sides then soaked in red wine cheese put on top placed in a tin oven to toast and brown further 61 As an example of the disarrayed layout of the book Willian highlights the nine identical recipes of gravy that appear spread over four chapters 6 Other works that copied Glasse include Martha Bradley s 1756 partwork British Housewife 86 William Gelleroy s The London Cook 1762 87 John Farley s 1783 work The London Art of Cookery 88 and William Henderson s The Housekeeper s Instructor 1791 89 These included The Cookmaid s Assistant or Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy by Elizabeth Clifton 1750 Arabella Fairfax s 1753 work Family s Best Friend or the whole Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy 1753 and the later editions from 1754 onwards of Penelope Bradshaw s The Family Jewel and Compleat Housewife s Companion Or The Whole Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy 90 David referenced Glasse several times in her 1970 work Spices Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen 98 and again in Harvest of the Cold Months 1994 99 In her 1977 book English Bread and Yeast Cookery David used recipes for French bread bread made without the use of a barm muffins and oatcakes yeast dumplings and saffron cake 100 These were Welsh Scottish and English rabbit rarebit potted cheese a fricassee of eggs a white fricassee of mushrooms Yorkshire pudding salmagundi rabbit casserole Cheshire pork and apple pie Yorkshire Christmas pye Goose pye whim wham a form of trifle chocolate pie and a compote of bon chretiens pears 101 References edit Dodds 1938 pp 43 44 a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t Robb Smith 2004 a b c Dickson Wright 2011 3650 Dickson Wright 2011 3662 a b c Dickson Wright 2011 3661 a b c d e f Willan 1992 p 100 Coyle 1985 p 49 a b c d Glasse 1748 p i Lehman 2003 1976 Hardy 2011 p 58 Glasse 1748 Title page Hoare 2014 a b c d Snodgrass 2004 p 442 Willan 1992 pp 100 101 a b c d David 2001 p 266 a b Coyle 1985 pp 49 50 Stead 2002 pp 335 336 a b c Hannah Glasse Biographical details The British Museum a b Boswell 1906 pp 287 288 a b Stead 2002 p 350 a b c Willan 1992 p 101 Clark 2018 By the King s Patent The London Gazette Professed Cookery WorldCat Stead 2002 p 346 Dodds 1938 p 49 Lehman 2003 2065 Dodds 1938 p 50 a b Aylett amp Ordish 1965 p 120 Dodds 1938 pp 47 48 Dodds 1938 p 48 The Compleat Confectioner WorldCat Quayle 1978 p 82 Quinzio 2009 p 219 Lucraft 1993 p 46 Davidson 2014 p 350 Lehman 2003 2358 Willan amp Cherniavsky 2012 p 215 Glasse 1772 Index Notices The Newcastle Courant a b Dickson Wright 2011 3709 Lehman 2003 2375 Lehman 2003 2377 Lehman 2003 1971 Glasse 1772 p 252 Glasse 1748 p iii a b Stead 2002 p 348 a b Glasse 1748 p 103 Notaker 2017 p 76 Lehman 2003 2325 a b Bickham 2008 p 99 David 1975 p 11n Collingham 2006 p 137 Burnett amp Saberi 2006 268 Glasse 1748 p 101 Glasse 1748 p 102 Glasse 1748 p 244 Colquhoun 2007 p 209 a b Prince 2006 a b Glasse 1748 p 6 a b Glasse 1748 p 190 Glasse 1748 pp 240 248 Glasse 1748 pp 328 329 David 1975 p 57 Glasse 1748 p 290 Colquhoun 2007 p 229 Sommerlad 2018 Collingham 2006 pp 202 405 Hall 2010 p 395 Lieffers 2012 pp 938 947 Walker 2013 p 93 a b Stead 2002 p 342 Snodgrass 2004 pp 442 871 Glasse 1748 pp 233 239 Lehman 2003 2580 Glasse 1748 p iv Lehman 2003 2900 Robertson 1997 p 182 Robertson 1997 p 67 Aylett amp Ordish 1965 p 113 Dodds 1938 pp 43 68 a b David 2001 p 268 Stead 2002 p 333 a b Smith 2013 p 401 Hughes 2006 p 206 Lehman 2003 2248 Lehman 2003 2501 Lucraft 1992 p 7 David 1979 p 344 a b Lehman 2003 2091 Hess amp Hess 2000 p 85 a b first catch your hare Oxford English Dictionary Brewer 2012 p 103 Formats and Editions of First Catch your Hare Worldcat Davidson amp Saberi 2002 p 263 Hannah Glasse the First Domestic Goddess BBC Genome Hannah Glasse s 310th Birthday Google David 1975 pp 11n 51 57 229 249 David 1996 pp 104 105 310 312 314 316 David 1979 pp 99 299 343 344 418 445 Grigson 1993 pp 31 33 37 58 139 191 225 231 240 241 242 260 271 272 283 recipes cited respectively Dickson Wright 2011 3825 Dickson Wright 2011 3838 Sources edit Books edit Aylett Mary Ordish Olive 1965 First Catch Your Hare London Macdonald OCLC 54053 Boswell James 1906 Life of Johnson London Constable amp Co OCLC 221732294 Burnett David Saberi Helen 2006 The Road to Vindaloo Curry Cooks amp Curry Books Kindle ed London Marion Boyars ISBN 978 1 909248 12 0 Collingham Alan 2006 Curry A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors London Vintage ISBN 978 0 0994 3786 4 Colquhoun Kate 2007 Taste the Story of Britain Through its Cooking New York Bloomsbury ISBN 978 1 5969 1410 0 Coyle L Patrick 1985 Cooks Books An Affectionate Guide to the Literature of Food and Cooking New York Fact on File ISBN 978 0 87196 683 4 David Elizabeth 1975 1970 Spices Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen Harmondsworth Middlesex Penguin ISBN 978 0 1404 6796 3 David Elizabeth 2001 2000 Is There a Nutmeg in the House Jill Norman ed London Penguin ISBN 978 0 14 029290 9 David Elizabeth 1979 1977 English Bread and Yeast Cookery Harmondsworth Penguin ISBN 978 0 1402 9974 8 David Elizabeth 1996 1994 Harvest of the Cold Months The Social History of Ice and Ices London Michael Joseph ISBN 978 0 14 017641 4 Davidson Alan 2014 The Oxford Companion to Food Oxford Oxford University Press ISBN 978 0 19 104072 6 Archived from the original on 29 March 2021 Davidson Alan Saberi Helen eds 2002 The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy Twenty Years of the Best Food Writing From the Journal Petits Propos Culinaires Berkeley CA Ten Speed Press ISBN 978 1 5800 8417 8 Dickson Wright Clarissa 2011 A History of English Food Kindle ed London Random House ISBN 978 1 4481 0745 2 Glasse Hannah 1748 The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy Third ed London Published by the author OCLC 938365682 Glasse Hannah 1772 The Compleat Confectioner Or The Whole Art of Confectionary Made Plain and Easy London J Cooke OCLC 28134185 Grigson Jane 1993 1974 English Food London Penguin ISBN 978 0 1410 4586 3 Hardy Sheila 2011 The Real Mrs Beeton The Story of Eliza Acton Stroud Gloucestershire The History Press ISBN 978 0 7524 6122 9 Hess John L Hess Karen 2000 The Taste of America Champaign IL University of Illinois Press ISBN 978 0 252 06875 1 Archived from the original on 29 March 2021 Hughes Kathryn 2006 The Short Life and Long Times of Mrs Beeton London HarperCollins Publishers ISBN 978 0 7524 6122 9 Archived from the original on 3 November 2020 Lehman Gilly 2003 The British Housewife Cooking and Society in 18th century Britain Kindle ed Totness Devon Prospect Books ISBN 978 1 909248 00 7 Notaker Henry 2017 A History of Cookbooks From Kitchen to Page over Seven Centuries Oakland CA University of California Press ISBN 978 0 520 96728 1 Archived from the original on 1 August 2020 Quayle Eric 1978 Old Cook Books An Illustrated History London Cassell ISBN 978 0 289 70707 4 Quinzio Geraldine M 2009 Of Sugar and Snow A History of Ice Cream Making Berkeley CA University of California Press ISBN 978 0 520 94296 7 Robertson Una 1997 An Illustrated History of the Housewife 1650 1950 New York St Martin s Press ISBN 978 0 3121 7712 6 Smith Andrew F 2013 Food and Drink in American History A Full Course Encyclopedia Santa Barbara CA ABC CLIO ISBN 978 1 61069 233 5 Archived from the original on 29 March 2021 Snodgrass Mary Ellen 2004 Encyclopedia of Kitchen History Abingdon Oxfordshire Routledge ISBN 978 1 135 45572 9 Archived from the original on 18 October 2020 Stead Jennifer 2002 Quizzing Glasse or Hannah Scrutinzed In Davidson Alan Saberi Helen eds The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy Twenty Years of the Best Food Writing From the Journal Petits Propos Culinaires Berkeley CA Ten Speed Press pp 333 352 ISBN 978 1 5800 8417 8 Walker Julian 2013 Discovering Words in the Kitchen London Bloomsbury Publishing ISBN 978 0 7478 0952 4 Archived from the original on 1 August 2020 Willan Anne 1992 Great Cooks and their Recipes London Pavilion Books ISBN 978 1 85145 596 6 Willan Anne Cherniavsky Mark 2012 The Cookbook Library Four Centuries of the Cooks Writers and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook Berkeley CA University of California Press ISBN 978 0 520 24400 9 Archived from the original on 29 March 2021 Journals edit Bickham Troy February 2008 Eating the Empire Intersections of Food Cookery and Imperialism in Eighteenth Century Britain Past amp Present 198 71 109 doi 10 1093 pastj gtm054 JSTOR 25096701 Brewer Charlotte February 2012 Happy Copiousness OED s Recording of Female Authors of the Eighteenth Century The Review of English Studies 63 258 86 117 doi 10 1093 res hgq102 JSTOR 41410091 By the King s Patent The London Gazette No 9416 15 October 1754 p 4 Dodds Madeline Hope 1938 The Rival Cooks Hannah Glasse and Ann Cook PDF Archaeologia Aeliana 4 15 43 68 Archived from the original on 29 October 2019 Hall Wendy September 2010 Literacy and the Domestic Arts Huntington Library Quarterly 73 3 383 412 doi 10 1525 hlq 2010 73 3 383 Lieffers Caroline June 2012 The Present Time is Eminently Scientific The Science of Cookery in Nineteenth Century Britain Journal of Social History 45 4 936 959 doi 10 1093 jsh shr106 JSTOR 41678945 Lucraft Fiona 1992 The London Art of Plagiarism Part One Petits Propos Culinaires 42 7 24 ISSN 0142 7857 Lucraft Fiona 1993 The London Art of Plagiarism Part Two Petits Propos Culinaires 43 34 46 ISSN 0142 7857 News edit Notices The Newcastle Courant 8 September 1770 p 2 Prince Rose 24 June 2006 Hannah Glasse The original domestic goddess The Independent Archived from the original on 7 June 2010 Retrieved 27 March 2018 Sommerlad Joe 28 March 2018 Hannah Glasse How the British writer s seminal recipe book democratised cookery The Independent Archived from the original on 21 May 2019 Retrieved 14 March 2019 Internet edit Clark Gregory 2018 The Annual RPI and Average Earnings for Britain 1209 to Present New Series MeasuringWorth Archived from the original on 17 December 2017 Retrieved 30 January 2018 The Compleat Confectioner WorldCat Archived from the original on 29 March 2021 Retrieved 15 March 2019 first catch your hare Oxford English Dictionary Online ed Oxford University Press Retrieved 10 March 2019 Subscription or participating institution membership required Formats and Editions of First Catch your Hare the Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy 1747 Worldcat Archived from the original on 29 March 2021 Retrieved 17 March 2019 Hannah Glasse s 310th Birthday Google Archived from the original on 26 March 2019 Retrieved 16 March 2019 Hannah Glasse Biographical details The British Museum Archived from the original on 29 March 2021 Retrieved 7 March 2019 Hannah Glasse the First Domestic Goddess BBC Genome Archived from the original on 29 March 2021 Retrieved 16 March 2019 Hoare Charlotte 19 May 2014 The Art of Cookery by a lady St John s College Cambridge Archived from the original on 26 February 2019 Retrieved 7 March 2019 Professed Cookery WorldCat Archived from the original on 29 March 2021 Retrieved 13 March 2019 Robb Smith A H T 2004 Glasse nee Allgood Hannah bap 1708 d 1770 Oxford Dictionary of National Biography Oxford University Press doi 10 1093 ref odnb 10804 subscription or UK public library membership required External links editHannah Glasse at Wikipedia s sister projects nbsp Media from Commons nbsp Quotations from Wikiquote nbsp Texts from Wikisource Extract of Art of Cookery from the British Library and biographical information Works by Hannah Glasse at LibriVox public domain audiobooks nbsp Portals nbsp Biography nbsp England nbsp Food Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Hannah Glasse amp oldid 1207807386, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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