Gaurishankar (also Gauri Sankar or Gauri Shankar; Nepali : गौरीशंकर; Sherpa: Jomo Tseringma;) is a mountain in the NepalHimalayas, the second highest peak of the Rolwaling Himal, behind Melungtse (7,181m). The name comes from the Hindu goddess Gauri, a manifestation of Parvati, and her consort Shankar, denoting the sacred regard to which it is afforded it by the people of Nepal. The Sherpas name the mountain as Jomo Tseringma.[3] The Nepal Standard Time (GMT+05:45) is based on the meridian of this mountain peak.[4]
Gaurishankar lies near the western edge of the Rolwaling Himal, about 100 kilometres (62 mi) northeast of Kathmandu. (It is almost directly between Kathmandu and Mount Everest, and is visible from Kathmandu.) To the west of the peak lies the valley of the Bhote Kosi, the western boundary of the Rolwaling Himal. To the north lies the Menlung Chu, which separates it from its sister peak Melungtse. To the south lies the Rolwaling Chu, which leads up to the Tesi Lapcha pass, giving access to the Khumbu region.[5] It is in Dolakha District.
Notable features
The mountain has two summits, the northern (higher) summit being called Shankar (a manifestation of Shiva) and the southern summit being called Gauri (a manifestation of Shiva's consort). It rises dramatically above the Bhote Kosi only 5 km away,[6][7] and is protected on all sides by steep faces and long, corniced ridges.[5][6]
Climbing history
The first attempts to climb Gauri Sankar were made in the 1950s and 1960s but weather, avalanches and difficult ice faces defeated all parties.[8] From 1965 until 1979, the mountain was officially closed for climbing. When permission was finally granted in 1979, an American-Nepalese expedition finally managed to gain the top, via the West Face.[3] This was a route of extreme technical difficulty. The permit from the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism stipulated that the summit could only be reached if an equal number of climbers from both nations were on the summit team. John Roskelley and Dorje Sherpa fulfilled that obligation.[5]
In the same year, a British-Nepalese expedition led by Peter Boardman climbed the long and difficult Southwest Ridge. Boardman, Tim Leach, Guy Neidhardt, and Pemba Lama made it to the south "Gauri" summit (7010m. ) on November 8, 1979.[9] Though they did not make the long additional traverse to the main "Shankar" summit, their climb was a significant achievement in itself.
In 1983 Gaurishankar was reached again by a Slovenian team.[10][11] The main summit (7134m) was reached on November 1 by Slavko Cankar (expedition leader), Bojan Šrot and Smiljan Smodiš; and three days later by Franco Pepevnik and Jože Zupan. They climbed the left side of the South Face to reach the Southwest Ridge, then continuing to the main summit.[12]
The Himalayan Index lists only two additional ascents of the main summit of Gauri Sankar.[13] The second ascent was made in the spring of 1984 by Wyman Culbreth and Ang Kami Sherpa, via a new route on a ridge on the southwest face. The third ascent (and the first winter ascent), in January 1986, was by South Korean Choi Han-Jo and Ang Kami Sherpa.[14]
In the fall of 2013, the complete south face was finally climbed by a four-man team of French climbers. After reaching the top of the south face at 4 pm on October 21, they decided not to continue to the 7,010 m south summit. It took them 11 hours to descend to the bottom of the face.[10]
Cultural reference
A passing reference to Gaurishankar is made in the poem "Som dreng skar jeg skibe" by Johannes V. Jensen.[15]
Photo gallery
A panorama view of Gaurishankar Mountain (7134m) from Kalinchowk (2900m.)
Gaurishankar
Gaurishankar
Footnotes
^ ab Sources differ widely on this peak's elevation and prominence. Peakbagger for example gives an elevation of 7134 m and a prominence of 1709 m.
References
^ abc "High Asia II: Himalaya of Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim and adjoining region of Tibet". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 30 May 2014.
^ "Gaurishankar, China/Nepal". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 30 May 2014.
^ ab Read, Al (1980). "The Nepalese-American Gaurishankar Expedition". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 22 (2): 417. Retrieved 3 January 2015.
^Gurung, Trishna. . Nepali Times. Archived from the original on 25 July 2011. Retrieved 3 September 2012.
^ abc Fanshawe, Andy; Venables, Stephen (1995). Himalaya Alpine-Style. Hodder and Stoughton.
^ ab Ohmori, Koichiro (1994). Over The Himalaya. Cloudcap Press (The Mountaineers). ISBN978-0938567370.
^DEM files for the Himalaya (Corrected versions of SRTM data)
^ Neate, Jill (1989). High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks. The Mountaineers. ISBN978-0898862386.
^Boardman, Peter (1983). Sacred Summits. London: Arrow Books, LTD. ISBN978-0099310402.
^ ab Griffen, Lindsay (November 5, 2013). "South face of Gaurishankar finally climbed". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 3 January 2015.
^. 16 June 1997. Archived from the original on 3 January 2015. Retrieved 3 January 2015.
^ Griffin, Lindsay (2014). "Gaurishankar (to Point 6,850m), south face, Peine Prolongée". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 3 January 2015.
^ "Himalayan Index". Alpine Club. Retrieved 3 January 2015.
^ . American Alpine Journal: 237. 1986. Archived from the original on 20 January 2015. Retrieved 3 January 2015.
^Aage Jørgensen (6 September 2006). "Johannes V. Jensen jubilerer -- og samles". Kristeligt Dagblad (in Danish). ISSN 0904-6054. Wikidata Q117727710.
April 18, 2023
gaurishankar, village, nepal, gauri, sankar, village, also, gauri, sankar, gauri, shankar, nepali, कर, sherpa, jomo, tseringma, mountain, nepal, himalayas, second, highest, peak, rolwaling, himal, behind, melungtse, 181m, name, comes, from, hindu, goddess, gau. For the village in Nepal see Gauri Sankar village Gaurishankar also Gauri Sankar or Gauri Shankar Nepali ग र श कर Sherpa Jomo Tseringma is a mountain in the Nepal Himalayas the second highest peak of the Rolwaling Himal behind Melungtse 7 181m The name comes from the Hindu goddess Gauri a manifestation of Parvati and her consort Shankar denoting the sacred regard to which it is afforded it by the people of Nepal The Sherpas name the mountain as Jomo Tseringma 3 The Nepal Standard Time GMT 05 45 is based on the meridian of this mountain peak 4 Gauri ShankarGauri Shankar seen from Dulalthok Highest pointElevation7 134 m 23 406 ft 1 2 notes 1 Prominence1 600 m 5 200 ft 1 notes 1 ListingUltraCoordinates27 57 12 N 86 20 09 E 27 95333 N 86 33583 E 27 95333 86 33583 Coordinates 27 57 12 N 86 20 09 E 27 95333 N 86 33583 E 27 95333 86 33583 1 NamingEnglish translationThe Goddess and her ConsortLanguage of nameNepali SanskritGeographyGauri ShankarLocation in Nepal on the border with ChinaLocationNepalParent rangeRolwaling HimalClimbingFirst ascentMay 8 1979 by John Roskelley and Dorje SherpaEasiest routeSnow ice climb Contents 1 Location 2 Notable features 3 Climbing history 4 Cultural reference 5 Photo gallery 6 Footnotes 7 ReferencesLocation EditGaurishankar lies near the western edge of the Rolwaling Himal about 100 kilometres 62 mi northeast of Kathmandu It is almost directly between Kathmandu and Mount Everest and is visible from Kathmandu To the west of the peak lies the valley of the Bhote Kosi the western boundary of the Rolwaling Himal To the north lies the Menlung Chu which separates it from its sister peak Melungtse To the south lies the Rolwaling Chu which leads up to the Tesi Lapcha pass giving access to the Khumbu region 5 It is in Dolakha District Notable features EditThe mountain has two summits the northern higher summit being called Shankar a manifestation of Shiva and the southern summit being called Gauri a manifestation of Shiva s consort It rises dramatically above the Bhote Kosi only 5 km away 6 7 and is protected on all sides by steep faces and long corniced ridges 5 6 Climbing history EditThe first attempts to climb Gauri Sankar were made in the 1950s and 1960s but weather avalanches and difficult ice faces defeated all parties 8 From 1965 until 1979 the mountain was officially closed for climbing When permission was finally granted in 1979 an American Nepalese expedition finally managed to gain the top via the West Face 3 This was a route of extreme technical difficulty The permit from the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism stipulated that the summit could only be reached if an equal number of climbers from both nations were on the summit team John Roskelley and Dorje Sherpa fulfilled that obligation 5 In the same year a British Nepalese expedition led by Peter Boardman climbed the long and difficult Southwest Ridge Boardman Tim Leach Guy Neidhardt and Pemba Lama made it to the south Gauri summit 7010m on November 8 1979 9 Though they did not make the long additional traverse to the main Shankar summit their climb was a significant achievement in itself In 1983 Gaurishankar was reached again by a Slovenian team 10 11 The main summit 7134m was reached on November 1 by Slavko Cankar expedition leader Bojan Srot and Smiljan Smodis and three days later by Franco Pepevnik and Joze Zupan They climbed the left side of the South Face to reach the Southwest Ridge then continuing to the main summit 12 The Himalayan Index lists only two additional ascents of the main summit of Gauri Sankar 13 The second ascent was made in the spring of 1984 by Wyman Culbreth and Ang Kami Sherpa via a new route on a ridge on the southwest face The third ascent and the first winter ascent in January 1986 was by South Korean Choi Han Jo and Ang Kami Sherpa 14 In the fall of 2013 the complete south face was finally climbed by a four man team of French climbers After reaching the top of the south face at 4 pm on October 21 they decided not to continue to the 7 010 m south summit It took them 11 hours to descend to the bottom of the face 10 Cultural reference EditA passing reference to Gaurishankar is made in the poem Som dreng skar jeg skibe by Johannes V Jensen 15 Photo gallery Edit A panorama view of Gaurishankar Mountain 7134m from Kalinchowk 2900m Gaurishankar GaurishankarFootnotes Edit a b Sources differ widely on this peak s elevation and prominence Peakbagger for example gives an elevation of 7134 m and a prominence of 1709 m References Edit a b c High Asia II Himalaya of Nepal Bhutan Sikkim and adjoining region of Tibet Peaklist org Retrieved 30 May 2014 Gaurishankar China Nepal Peakbagger com Retrieved 30 May 2014 a b Read Al 1980 The Nepalese American Gaurishankar Expedition American Alpine Journal American Alpine Club 22 2 417 Retrieved 3 January 2015 Gurung Trishna 15 minutes of fame Nepali Times Archived from the original on 25 July 2011 Retrieved 3 September 2012 a b c Fanshawe Andy Venables Stephen 1995 Himalaya Alpine Style Hodder and Stoughton a b Ohmori Koichiro 1994 Over The Himalaya Cloudcap Press The Mountaineers ISBN 978 0938567370 DEM files for the Himalaya Corrected versions of SRTM data Neate Jill 1989 High Asia An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks The Mountaineers ISBN 978 0898862386 Boardman Peter 1983 Sacred Summits London Arrow Books LTD ISBN 978 0099310402 a b Griffen Lindsay November 5 2013 South face of Gaurishankar finally climbed British Mountaineering Council Retrieved 3 January 2015 An interview with Aco Pepevnik 16 June 1997 Archived from the original on 3 January 2015 Retrieved 3 January 2015 Griffin Lindsay 2014 Gaurishankar to Point 6 850m south face Peine Prolongee American Alpine Journal American Alpine Club Retrieved 3 January 2015 Himalayan Index Alpine Club Retrieved 3 January 2015 AAJ online American Alpine Journal 237 1986 Archived from the original on 20 January 2015 Retrieved 3 January 2015 Aage Jorgensen 6 September 2006 Johannes V Jensen jubilerer og samles Kristeligt Dagblad in Danish ISSN 0904 6054 Wikidata Q117727710 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Gaurishankar amp oldid 1150001751, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
