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Emilie Louise Flöge

February 20, 2024

Emilie Louise Flöge (30 August 1874 – 26 May 1952) was an Austrian fashion designer and businesswoman. She was the life companion of the painter Gustav Klimt.

Emilie Louise Flöge
Flöge, studio of Madame D'Ora-Benda, 1909
Born(1874-08-30)August 30, 1874
Vienna, Austria
DiedMay 26, 1952(1952-05-26) (aged 77)
Vienna, Austria
OccupationCouturière
PartnerGustav Klimt

Biography edit

 
Emilie Flöge (1902)
an oil painting by Gustav Klimt

Flöge was the fourth child of the master turner and manufacturer of Meerschaum pipes, Hermann Flöge (1837–1897). Emilie had two sisters, Pauline and Helene, and a brother, Hermann.[1]

Her first job was as a seamstress, but she later became a couturière. In 1894, Pauline, her elder sister, opened a dressmaking school[2] and Emilie worked there. In 1899 the two sisters won a dressmaking competition and were commissioned to make a batiste dress for an exhibition.

In partnership with her sister Helene, after 1904 Flöge established herself as a successful businesswoman and the owner of the haute couture fashion salon known as Schwestern Flöge (Flöge Sisters) in a major Viennese thoroughfare, the Mariahilfer Strasse.[3] In this salon, which had been designed in the Jugendstil by the architect Josef Hoffmann, she presented designer clothing in the style of the Wiener Werkstätte. Flöge designed bespoke garments, especially loose, patterned dresses in the reform style (a movement also called Victorian dress reform).[4] This style was promoted by the feminist movement in Vienna and was characterized by high bodices, a loose silhouette, and billowing sleeves.[4] It was thought that this type of dress was better for women's health and allowed for a greater range of movement.[4] During her trips to London and Paris she familiarized herself with the latest fashion trends from Coco Chanel and Christian Dior, however, after the Anschluss with the German Third Reich in 1938, Flöge lost her most important customers and had to close her salon, which had become the leading fashion venue for Viennese society.[5] After 1938 she worked from the top floor of her home at 39 Ungargasse.[6]

Emilie Flöge was a member of the Viennese bohemian and Fin de siècle circles. She was the life companion of the painter Gustav Klimt.[7][8] In 1891, Helene, one of Emilie's two older sisters, married Ernst Klimt, the brother of Gustav Klimt. When Ernst died in December 1892, Gustav was made Helene's guardian. At that time Emilie was eighteen years old and Gustav became a frequent guest at the home of her parents, spending the summers with the Flöge family at Lake Attersee.[1] Numerous photographs document Klimt with Emilie and her family.[9][10]

 
The Kiss 1907–08, oil on canvas, Österreichische Galerie Belvedere, Vienna

After 1891, Klimt portrayed her in many of his works. Experts[11] believe that his painting The Kiss (1907–08) shows the artist and Emilie Flöge as lovers.

Klimt may have drawn some garments for the Flöge salon in the reform dress style, but this is frequently discounted in favor of the idea that the Flöge sisters designed the dresses themselves.[12] The clientele for what was at that time a revolutionary fashion was too small to provide a living, however, and she earned money accordingly through conventional styles.[13] Klimt was painting many women from the upper echelons of Viennese society and thus was able to introduce Emilie Flöge to a prosperous client base.[14] Klimt died from a stroke on 11 January 1918. His last words reportedly were, "Emilie must come."[15] She inherited half of Klimt's estate, the other half going to the painter's family.[1]

In the final days of the Second World War, her house in the Ungargasse caught fire, destroying not only her collection of garments, but also valuable objects from the estate of Gustav Klimt.[16]

 
Flöge family grave at the Protestant Cemetery in Simmering

Flöge died at the age of 77 in Vienna on 26 May 1952 and was buried in the Flöge-Donner family grave at the Protestant Cemetery in Simmering on 30 May 1952.[17] The cemetery authorities designated it as a celebrity grave and restored the tombstone for the 150th Anniversary Year of Gustav Klimt.[citation needed] The grave is now included on their website.[18]

Legacy edit

Her style has been commented to have influenced the portrait First Lady Michelle Obama, by Amy Sherald in 2018.[19]

Images edit

  •  
    Reconstruction after a dress from the fashion salon Schwestern Flöge (c. 1909)
  •  
    Bathing costume from the estate of Emilie Flöge
  •  
    Photogravure of Flöge in Schörfling am Attersee, taken by Heinrich Böhler (1909)
  •  
    Flöge and Klimt in Schörfling am Attersee, taken by Heinrich Böhler (1909)

References and sources edit

References
  1. ^ a b c . Museum online. 1996. Archived from the original on 2011-07-06. Retrieved 2011-02-25.
  2. ^ Gustav Klimt, Emilie Flöge : reforming fashion, inspiring art. Tretter, Sandra; Weinhäupl, Peter, 1962-, Leitner, Martina. Vienna. 2016. ISBN 978-3-7106-0071-5. OCLC 962180850.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link)
  3. ^ Gustav Klimt, Emilie Flöge : reforming fashion, inspiring art. Tretter, Sandra; Weinhäupl, Peter, 1962-, Leitner, Martina. Vienna. 2016. ISBN 978-3-7106-0071-5. OCLC 962180850.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link)
  4. ^ a b c Lloyd, Jill; Witt Doring, Christian (2011). "Feminists and Femmes Fatales: Representing Women in Turn-of-the-Century Vienna". Birth of the Modern: Style and Identity in Vienna 1900. New York: Neue Gallery. pp. 120–141. ISBN 978-3777434414.
  5. ^ Furman, Anna (2017-09-19). "Before Coco Chanel There Was Emilie Flöge: A Designer the Fashion Industry Forgot". Harper's BAZAAR. Retrieved 2020-03-09.
  6. ^ Gustav Klimt, Emilie Flöge : reforming fashion, inspiring art. Tretter, Sandra; Weinhäupl, Peter, 1962-, Leitner, Martina. Vienna. 2016. ISBN 978-3-7106-0071-5. OCLC 962180850.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link)
  7. ^ Fischer, Wolfgang Georg, 1933- (1992). Gustav Klimt & Emilie Flöge : an artist and his muse. McEwan, Dorothea. London: Lund Humphries. ISBN 0-85331-607-4. OCLC 24743238.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
  8. ^ Powell, Nicolas. "Emilie Floge and her lover Gustav Klimt." Apollo: The International Magazine for Collectors, August 1982, Vol. 116, p112-114.
  9. ^ York, Neue Galerie New. "Neue Galerie New York". neuegalerie.org. Retrieved 2020-03-09.
  10. ^ York, Neue Galerie New. "Neue Galerie New York". neuegalerie.org. Retrieved 2020-03-09.
  11. ^ Alfred Weidinger (art historian and vice director of Belvedere Museum Vienna) in interview in ORF broadcast "Klimt am Attersee", 26 Aug 2012.
  12. ^ Klimt, Gustav (2000). Klimt's women. Tobias G. Natter, Gerbert Frodl, Österreichische Galerie Belvedere. Cologne: DuMont. ISBN 0-300-08796-9. OCLC 45328701.
  13. ^ Finkle, Dana (March 9, 2021). "Emilie Flöge - Profiles in Sewing History". Threads. Retrieved June 28, 2021. Since not everyone was ready to adopt this new style of dress, Schwestern Flöge sold mainstream garments as well. This helped ensure the store turned a profit.
  14. ^ Gustav Klimt, Emilie Flöge : reforming fashion, inspiring art. Tretter, Sandra; Weinhäupl, Peter, 1962-, Leitner, Martina. Vienna. 2016. ISBN 978-3-7106-0071-5. OCLC 962180850.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link)
  15. ^ Powell, Nicolas. "Emilie Floge and her lover Gustav Klimt." Apollo: The International Magazine for Collectors, August 1982, Vol. 116, p112-114.
  16. ^ Gustav Klimt, Emilie Flöge : reforming fashion, inspiring art. Tretter, Sandra; Weinhäupl, Peter, 1962-, Leitner, Martina. Vienna. 2016. ISBN 978-3-7106-0071-5. OCLC 962180850.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link)
  17. ^ "Personendaten". www.evang-friedhof.at. Retrieved 2021-03-12.
  18. ^ Gustav Klimt, Emilie Flöge : reforming fashion, inspiring art. Tretter, Sandra; Weinhäupl, Peter, 1962-, Leitner, Martina. Vienna. 2016. ISBN 978-3-7106-0071-5. OCLC 962180850.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link)
  19. ^ "Modern Power Portraits with Some Fashion Notes".
Sources
  • This article began as a translation of the article in the German Wikipedia at de: Emilie Flöge with additional information from the French Wikipedia at fr: Emilie Flöge.

Further reading edit

  • Gustav Klimt, Emilie Flöge: Reforming Fashion, Inspiring Art, edited by Sandra Tretter and Peter Weinhäupl. Vienna: Gustav Klimt / Wien 1900 Foundation, 2016. ISBN 9783710600715.
  • Gustav Klimt & Emilie Flöge: An Artist and His Muse, by Wolfgang Fischer with assistance from Dorothea McEwan. London: Lund Humphries, 2012. ISBN 0853316074.
  • Gustav Klimt & Emilie Flöge: Photographs, edited by Agnes Husslein-Arco and Alfred Weidinger. Munich: Prestel, 2012. ISBN 9783791352473.
  • O'Connor, Anne-Marie (2012). The Lady in Gold, The Extraordinary Tale of Gustav Klimt's Masterpiece, Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer, Alfred A. Knopf, New York, ISBN 0-307-26564-1

External links edit

  • Emilie Louise Flöge in Austria-Forum (in German) (at AEIOU)
  • Literature by and about Emilie Louise Flöge in the German National Library catalogue
  • Additional images at "Klimt Museum" commercial website

February 20, 2024
emilie, louise, flöge, august, 1874, 1952, austrian, fashion, designer, businesswoman, life, companion, painter, gustav, klimt, flöge, studio, madame, benda, 1909born, 1874, august, 1874vienna, austriadiedmay, 1952, 1952, aged, vienna, austriaoccupationcouturi. Emilie Louise Floge 30 August 1874 26 May 1952 was an Austrian fashion designer and businesswoman She was the life companion of the painter Gustav Klimt Emilie Louise FlogeFloge studio of Madame D Ora Benda 1909Born 1874 08 30 August 30 1874Vienna AustriaDiedMay 26 1952 1952 05 26 aged 77 Vienna AustriaOccupationCouturierePartnerGustav Klimt Contents 1 Biography 2 Legacy 3 Images 4 References and sources 5 Further reading 6 External linksBiography edit nbsp Emilie Floge 1902 an oil painting by Gustav KlimtFloge was the fourth child of the master turner and manufacturer of Meerschaum pipes Hermann Floge 1837 1897 Emilie had two sisters Pauline and Helene and a brother Hermann 1 Her first job was as a seamstress but she later became a couturiere In 1894 Pauline her elder sister opened a dressmaking school 2 and Emilie worked there In 1899 the two sisters won a dressmaking competition and were commissioned to make a batiste dress for an exhibition In partnership with her sister Helene after 1904 Floge established herself as a successful businesswoman and the owner of the haute couture fashion salon known as Schwestern Floge Floge Sisters in a major Viennese thoroughfare the Mariahilfer Strasse 3 In this salon which had been designed in the Jugendstil by the architect Josef Hoffmann she presented designer clothing in the style of the Wiener Werkstatte Floge designed bespoke garments especially loose patterned dresses in the reform style a movement also called Victorian dress reform 4 This style was promoted by the feminist movement in Vienna and was characterized by high bodices a loose silhouette and billowing sleeves 4 It was thought that this type of dress was better for women s health and allowed for a greater range of movement 4 During her trips to London and Paris she familiarized herself with the latest fashion trends from Coco Chanel and Christian Dior however after the Anschluss with the German Third Reich in 1938 Floge lost her most important customers and had to close her salon which had become the leading fashion venue for Viennese society 5 After 1938 she worked from the top floor of her home at 39 Ungargasse 6 Emilie Floge was a member of the Viennese bohemian and Fin de siecle circles She was the life companion of the painter Gustav Klimt 7 8 In 1891 Helene one of Emilie s two older sisters married Ernst Klimt the brother of Gustav Klimt When Ernst died in December 1892 Gustav was made Helene s guardian At that time Emilie was eighteen years old and Gustav became a frequent guest at the home of her parents spending the summers with the Floge family at Lake Attersee 1 Numerous photographs document Klimt with Emilie and her family 9 10 nbsp The Kiss 1907 08 oil on canvas Osterreichische Galerie Belvedere ViennaAfter 1891 Klimt portrayed her in many of his works Experts 11 believe that his painting The Kiss 1907 08 shows the artist and Emilie Floge as lovers Klimt may have drawn some garments for the Floge salon in the reform dress style but this is frequently discounted in favor of the idea that the Floge sisters designed the dresses themselves 12 The clientele for what was at that time a revolutionary fashion was too small to provide a living however and she earned money accordingly through conventional styles 13 Klimt was painting many women from the upper echelons of Viennese society and thus was able to introduce Emilie Floge to a prosperous client base 14 Klimt died from a stroke on 11 January 1918 His last words reportedly were Emilie must come 15 She inherited half of Klimt s estate the other half going to the painter s family 1 In the final days of the Second World War her house in the Ungargasse caught fire destroying not only her collection of garments but also valuable objects from the estate of Gustav Klimt 16 nbsp Floge family grave at the Protestant Cemetery in SimmeringFloge died at the age of 77 in Vienna on 26 May 1952 and was buried in the Floge Donner family grave at the Protestant Cemetery in Simmering on 30 May 1952 17 The cemetery authorities designated it as a celebrity grave and restored the tombstone for the 150th Anniversary Year of Gustav Klimt citation needed The grave is now included on their website 18 Legacy editHer style has been commented to have influenced the portrait First Lady Michelle Obama by Amy Sherald in 2018 19 Images edit nbsp Reconstruction after a dress from the fashion salon Schwestern Floge c 1909 nbsp Bathing costume from the estate of Emilie Floge nbsp Photogravure of Floge in Schorfling am Attersee taken by Heinrich Bohler 1909 nbsp Floge and Klimt in Schorfling am Attersee taken by Heinrich Bohler 1909 References and sources editReferences a b c Schonheitsideale amp Ornamentik Damen der Gesellschaft Museum online 1996 Archived from the original on 2011 07 06 Retrieved 2011 02 25 Gustav Klimt Emilie Floge reforming fashion inspiring art Tretter Sandra Weinhaupl Peter 1962 Leitner Martina Vienna 2016 ISBN 978 3 7106 0071 5 OCLC 962180850 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link CS1 maint others link Gustav Klimt Emilie Floge reforming fashion inspiring art Tretter Sandra Weinhaupl Peter 1962 Leitner Martina Vienna 2016 ISBN 978 3 7106 0071 5 OCLC 962180850 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link CS1 maint others link a b c Lloyd Jill Witt Doring Christian 2011 Feminists and Femmes Fatales Representing Women in Turn of the Century Vienna Birth of the Modern Style and Identity in Vienna 1900 New York Neue Gallery pp 120 141 ISBN 978 3777434414 Furman Anna 2017 09 19 Before Coco Chanel There Was Emilie Floge A Designer the Fashion Industry Forgot Harper s BAZAAR Retrieved 2020 03 09 Gustav Klimt Emilie Floge reforming fashion inspiring art Tretter Sandra Weinhaupl Peter 1962 Leitner Martina Vienna 2016 ISBN 978 3 7106 0071 5 OCLC 962180850 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link CS1 maint others link Fischer Wolfgang Georg 1933 1992 Gustav Klimt amp Emilie Floge an artist and his muse McEwan Dorothea London Lund Humphries ISBN 0 85331 607 4 OCLC 24743238 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint multiple names authors list link CS1 maint numeric names authors list link Powell Nicolas Emilie Floge and her lover Gustav Klimt Apollo The International Magazine for Collectors August 1982 Vol 116 p112 114 York Neue Galerie New Neue Galerie New York neuegalerie org Retrieved 2020 03 09 York Neue Galerie New Neue Galerie New York neuegalerie org Retrieved 2020 03 09 Alfred Weidinger art historian and vice director of Belvedere Museum Vienna in interview in ORF broadcast Klimt am Attersee 26 Aug 2012 Klimt Gustav 2000 Klimt s women Tobias G Natter Gerbert Frodl Osterreichische Galerie Belvedere Cologne DuMont ISBN 0 300 08796 9 OCLC 45328701 Finkle Dana March 9 2021 Emilie Floge Profiles in Sewing History Threads Retrieved June 28 2021 Since not everyone was ready to adopt this new style of dress Schwestern Floge sold mainstream garments as well This helped ensure the store turned a profit Gustav Klimt Emilie Floge reforming fashion inspiring art Tretter Sandra Weinhaupl Peter 1962 Leitner Martina Vienna 2016 ISBN 978 3 7106 0071 5 OCLC 962180850 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link CS1 maint others link Powell Nicolas Emilie Floge and her lover Gustav Klimt Apollo The International Magazine for Collectors August 1982 Vol 116 p112 114 Gustav Klimt Emilie Floge reforming fashion inspiring art Tretter Sandra Weinhaupl Peter 1962 Leitner Martina Vienna 2016 ISBN 978 3 7106 0071 5 OCLC 962180850 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link CS1 maint others link Personendaten www evang friedhof at Retrieved 2021 03 12 Gustav Klimt Emilie Floge reforming fashion inspiring art Tretter Sandra Weinhaupl Peter 1962 Leitner Martina Vienna 2016 ISBN 978 3 7106 0071 5 OCLC 962180850 a href Template Cite book html title Template Cite book cite book a CS1 maint location missing publisher link CS1 maint others link Modern Power Portraits with Some Fashion Notes SourcesThis article began as a translation of the article in the German Wikipedia at de Emilie Floge with additional information from the French Wikipedia at fr Emilie Floge Further reading editGustav Klimt Emilie Floge Reforming Fashion Inspiring Art edited by Sandra Tretter and Peter Weinhaupl Vienna Gustav Klimt Wien 1900 Foundation 2016 ISBN 9783710600715 Gustav Klimt amp Emilie Floge An Artist and His Muse by Wolfgang Fischer with assistance from Dorothea McEwan London Lund Humphries 2012 ISBN 0853316074 Gustav Klimt amp Emilie Floge Photographs edited by Agnes Husslein Arco and Alfred Weidinger Munich Prestel 2012 ISBN 9783791352473 O Connor Anne Marie 2012 The Lady in Gold The Extraordinary Tale of Gustav Klimt s Masterpiece Portrait of Adele Bloch Bauer Alfred A Knopf New York ISBN 0 307 26564 1External links editEmilie Louise Floge in Austria Forum in German at AEIOU Literature by and about Emilie Louise Floge in the German National Library catalogue Additional images at https web archive org web 20171110061930 http www klimt com en gallery photographies details emilie floege dhtml Klimt Museum commercial website Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Emilie Louise Floge amp oldid 1160056901, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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