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Crew cut

January 01, 1970

A crew cut is a type of haircut in which the upright hair on the top of the head is cut relatively short,[1] graduated in length from the longest hair that forms a short pomp (pompadour) at the front hairline to the shortest at the back of the crown so that in side profile, the outline of the top hair approaches the horizontal.[2][3] Relative to the front view, and to varying degrees, the outline of the top hair can be arched or flattened at the short pomp front and rounded or flattened over the rest of the top to complement the front hairline, head shape, face shape and facial features.[2] The hair on the sides and back of the head is usually tapered short, semi-short, or medium.[3][4]

John Cena sporting a crew cut

A short crew cut is sometimes referred to as a butch, though with the exception of variant forms, a butch differs from a crew cut in that the top hair is cut a uniform short length.[5] A long crew cut can be referred to in the US as an ivy league crew cut or ivy league.[6][7] A crew cut where the hair on the top of the head is graduated in length from the front hairline to a chosen point on the mid to back part of the crown as a flat plane, of level, upward sloping or downward sloping inclination is known as a flat top crew cut or flattop.[8][9] The crew cut, flat top crew cut, butch cut and Ivy League haircut can be referred to as types of buzz cuts. These haircuts have become popular military-inspired styles for men who want a short and low-maintenance look.[10]

History edit

In English, the crew cut and flat top crew cut were formerly known as the pompadour or short pompadour, as well as the brush cut, and had been worn since at least the mid-18th century.[6][3][11] The style went by other names in other languages; in French, coupe à la brosse "cut like a brush"; in German, Bürstenschnitt; in Russian, ёжик "hedgehog." A short pompadour with a flat top was considered the standard while a somewhat curved appearance across the top was suggested for wider foreheads and face shapes.[12] The style with a flat top acquired the name brush top short pompadour and the style with a more rounded top, round top short pompadour.[13] Prior to the invention of electric clippers with a motor in the handle in 1921 and their ensuing marketing and widespread use, barbers considered the perfect short pompadour to be the most time-consuming style to trim.[12][14][15][16]

 
Author Jack Kerouac sporting a G.I. crew cut in 1943

The term "crew haircut" was most likely coined to describe the hairstyles worn by members of Harvard, Yale, Princeton, Cornell and other university crew teams, which were short to keep the hair from being blown into the face of the rower as the boat races down the course opposite the direction the rower is seated with both hands on the oars, making it impossible to brush the hair out of the face.[17][18][19][20] The name drew a contrast to football haircuts, which had been long since 1889 when Princeton football players began wearing long hair to protect against head injury, thereby starting a trend, not altogether welcome; mop haired football players were frequently caricatured in the popular press.[21][6] In 1895, the championship Yale football team appeared with "close-cropped heads" and subsequently long hair went out of style for football. Almost concurrently, the first helmets began to appear.[21]

Crew cuts were popular in the 1920s and 1930s among college students, particularly in the Ivy League. The style was often worn as a summer haircut for its cooling effect.[18][19][20][22] Men inducted into the military in World War II received G.I. haircuts, crew cuts, and a significant proportion continued to wear a crew cut while serving and after, as civilians.[23][24][25][26][27][28] As long hair became popular in the mid-1960s, the crew cut and its variants waned in popularity through the 1970s.[29][30] The crew cut began to come back into style in the late 1970s and early 1980s, with the flat-top crew cut being the most popular crew cut style during the 1980s.[31][32]

Styling edit

 
Crew-cut Marine Lieutenant, 2011. The side profile shows graduation of the top hair shorter from the front hairline to the crown.

Thicker hair that wants to readily stand upright is ideal for a crew cut; with an appropriate head shape, a crew cut may be possible with fairly thin hair.[3] When designing a crew cut, a barber follows the general sequence of other medium to short haircuts; edging, siding and topping.[3][1] When designing a new crew cut and the current style is not relatively short, the hair on top or all over the head may initially be shortened with shears or clippers. Edging and siding together form a taper which usually is short, semi-short or medium.[3] For a crew cut, some barbers perform edging and siding as one integrated process, regardless, the upper sides are initially boxed in and then cut to final form when designing the top.[1] The hair on the top of the head can be styled clipper or shears over comb or free hand with a clipper.[1]

 
Duke player Jack Mullen (#20), depicted with a crew cut designed for a widow's peak receded hairline while playing basketball

With the clipper or shears over comb method, the comb is inserted in the upright hair at the desired length and the hair is reduced to this length by means of clippers or shears severing the hair above the teeth of the comb.[33] Freehand means the clipper blade or guard does not determine the cut hair length but rather the distance the cutting blade is held above the scalp sets the cut length.

The barber selects the most complementary final form for the top according to face shape, skull shape, frontal hairline, and facial features within parameters set by customer instructions. Specifically, the short pompadour front can be made higher or lower, wider or narrower and can be flattened or arched to varying degrees across the forehead; the hair over the rest of the top can be more rounded or flattened; the upper sides can have more or less volume.[2] In side profile, the outward appearance of the upright top hair should approach the horizontal; if the hair is cut so the upright top hair appears horizontal when the head is viewed from the front as well as the side, as a flat plane, the style is generally referred to as a flat-top crew cut or flat top; per customer wishes and the shape of the skull and frontal hairline, the flat plane can be level, upward or downward sloping relative to the forehead.[2][8][9] A crew cut with a longer top can be referred to in the US as an ivy league crew cut or ivy league.[6][7] A long crew cut might be graduated in length on the top of the head from 1+1⁄2 inches (38 mm) at the front hairline to 1⁄2 inch (13 mm) at the back of the crown.[34][35] A crew cut with a shorter top might have a similar proportional graduated difference in the length of the hair on the top of the head. If a short crew cut is 3⁄4 inch (19 mm) at the front hairline, the length of the hair at the back of the crown might be 1⁄4 inch (6.4 mm).[8][9]

Crew cut gallery edit

  •  
    Crew cut: top, short; back/sides, semi-short taper; sideburns, short; short pomp (pompadour) front, flattened; mid top, flattened; crown, rounded; front hairline, average; wavy hair. Chet Jastremski in 1963.
  •  
    Crew cut: top, short; back/sides, short taper; sideburns, semi-short; short pomp (pompadour) front, arched; mid top, rounded; crown, rounded; front hairline, slightly asymmetric with a cow lick at off center right; wavy hair. Jesse Metcalfe.
  •  
    Crew cut: top, medium; back/sides, semi-short taper; sideburns, long; short pomp (pompadour) front, arched; mid top, rounded; crown, rounded; front hairline, average, very curly hair. Darryl Stephens.
  •  
    Crew cut: top, medium; back/sides, semi-short taper; sideburns, semi-short; short pomp (pompadour) front, arched; mid top, flattened; crown, flattened; front hairline, widow peak receded; curly hair
  •  
    Crew cut: top, medium; back/sides, medium taper; sideburns, medium; short pomp (pompadour) front, flattened; mid top, rounded; crown, rounded; front hairline, average; curly hair. Bobby Hull.
  •  
    Crew cut: top, long; back/sides, medium taper; sideburns, medium; short pomp (pompadour) front, arched; mid top, rounded; crown, rounded; front hairline, lower than average; straight hair. Jensen Ackles.
  •  
    Crew cut: top, long; back/sides, semi-short taper; sideburns, short; short pomp (pompadour) front, arched; mid top, rounded; crown, rounded; front hairline, average; wavy hair. Colton Haynes.
  •  
    Billy Harris

See also edit

References edit

  1. ^ a b c d Trusty 1971, p. 108.
  2. ^ a b c d Trusty 1971, p. 107.
  3. ^ a b c d e f Thorpe 1967, p. 132.
  4. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 107-108.
  5. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 113.
  6. ^ a b c d Trusty 1971, p. 97.
  7. ^ a b Trusty 1971, p. 102.
  8. ^ a b c Thorpe 1967, p. 133-134.
  9. ^ a b c Trusty 1971, pp. 110–111.
  10. ^ "35 Best Military Haircuts". Men's Hairstyles Today. March 23, 2023. Retrieved April 4, 2023.
  11. ^ Moler 1911, p. 82-83.
  12. ^ a b Moler 1911, p. 82.
  13. ^ Thorpe 1958, p. 141.
  14. ^ . Archived from the original on 2015-02-10. Retrieved 2013-04-22.
  15. ^
  16. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 120.
  17. ^ "John Hay Whitney Philanthropist, Film Producer, and Father of the Crew Cut". Yale Alumni Magazine. April 2002.
  18. ^ a b "Pompadours Passe Says Barber; Collegetown Condemns Crew Cuts". The Cornell Daily Sun. Vol. 100, no. 141. 25 March 1937.
  19. ^ a b "Obecure Origins of the Crew Haircut Revealed by Harvard Square Barbers". The Harvard Crimson. 23 November 1935.
  20. ^ a b "Two-Fisted, Stout Jawed Movie Idol Plus Crew Haircut Resembles Composite Undergraduate". The Daily Princetonian. Vol. 65, no. 46. 27 March 1940.[permanent dead link]
  21. ^ a b Beau Riffenburgh, The Official NFL Encyclopedia: "The Helmet"
  22. ^ "Crew Haircut With Back Sheared Is The Male Method For Beating The Heat". Life. Vol. 11, no. 2. 14 July 1941.
  23. ^ "The Men 300,000 New Sailors Will Make The Navy Their Career". Life. Vol. 9, no. 18. 28 October 1940.
  24. ^ Gordon L. Rottman (2007), Fubar: Soldier Slang of World War II, p. 52, ISBN 9781846031755[permanent dead link]
  25. ^ George Thomas Simon (1974), Glen Miller and His Orchestra, p. 343, ISBN 0306801299[permanent dead link]
  26. ^ Victoria Sherrow (2006), Encyclopedia of hair, p. 194, ISBN 9780313331459
  27. ^ "The Great Hair Hangup". Boys' Life: 45. July 1967.
  28. ^ . Time. 16 February 1959. Archived from the original on September 15, 2008.
  29. ^ "The Great Hair Hangup". Boys' Life: 29. July 1967.
  30. ^ Kaminsky (10 May 1974), "Long Hair-Style Trends Cut Short", The Cornell Daily Sun, 100 (141)
  31. ^ Victoria Sherrow (2006), Encyclopedia of hair, p. 101, ISBN 9780313331459
  32. ^ Victoria Sherrow (2006), Encyclopedia of hair, p. 54, ISBN 9780313331459
  33. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 65-68.
  34. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 128, 129.
  35. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 89-90, 135-136.

Bibliography edit

  • Moler, A.B. (1911). Standardized Barbers' Manual. Unnattributed Publisher.
  • Thorpe, S.C. (1958). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering. Milady Publishing Corporation.
  • Thorpe, S.C. (1967). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering. Milady Publishing Corporation.
  • Trusty, L. Sherman (1971). The Art and Science of Barbering. Wolfer Printing Co.

External links edit

  •   The dictionary definition of crew cut at Wiktionary
  •   Media related to Crew cuts at Wikimedia Commons
  • A brief description of the term's history in the Yale Alumni Magazine
  • A brief description of the term's history in the Yale Daily News
  • Agonies Of Victory For Comeback Crew Life Dec. 10 1956. Includes photos of crew cut Olympic Gold Medal winning Yale oarsmen.
  • Crew Haircut With Back Sheared Is The Male Method For Beating The Heat Life July 14, 1941. Includes before and after photos.
  • Obecure Origins of the Crew Haircut Revealed by Harvard Square Barbers Harvard Crimson November 23, 1935.
  • Pompadours Passe Says Barber; Collegetown Condemns Crew Cuts Cornell Daily Sun March 25, 1937, Page 1
  • Princeton Oarsmen Pick Bayard To Lead 1940 Varsity Crew. Includes photo of crew cut Crew Captain. The Daily Princetonian May 24, 1939
  • Stout Jawed Movie Idol Plus Crew Haircut Resembles Composite Undergraduate The Daily Princetonian March 27, 1940

January 01, 1970
crew, crew, type, haircut, which, upright, hair, head, relatively, short, graduated, length, from, longest, hair, that, forms, short, pomp, pompadour, front, hairline, shortest, back, crown, that, side, profile, outline, hair, approaches, horizontal, relative,. A crew cut is a type of haircut in which the upright hair on the top of the head is cut relatively short 1 graduated in length from the longest hair that forms a short pomp pompadour at the front hairline to the shortest at the back of the crown so that in side profile the outline of the top hair approaches the horizontal 2 3 Relative to the front view and to varying degrees the outline of the top hair can be arched or flattened at the short pomp front and rounded or flattened over the rest of the top to complement the front hairline head shape face shape and facial features 2 The hair on the sides and back of the head is usually tapered short semi short or medium 3 4 John Cena sporting a crew cut A short crew cut is sometimes referred to as a butch though with the exception of variant forms a butch differs from a crew cut in that the top hair is cut a uniform short length 5 A long crew cut can be referred to in the US as an ivy league crew cut or ivy league 6 7 A crew cut where the hair on the top of the head is graduated in length from the front hairline to a chosen point on the mid to back part of the crown as a flat plane of level upward sloping or downward sloping inclination is known as a flat top crew cut or flattop 8 9 The crew cut flat top crew cut butch cut and Ivy League haircut can be referred to as types of buzz cuts These haircuts have become popular military inspired styles for men who want a short and low maintenance look 10 Contents 1 History 2 Styling 3 Crew cut gallery 4 See also 5 References 6 Bibliography 7 External linksHistory editIn English the crew cut and flat top crew cut were formerly known as the pompadour or short pompadour as well as the brush cut and had been worn since at least the mid 18th century 6 3 11 The style went by other names in other languages in French coupe a la brosse cut like a brush in German Burstenschnitt in Russian yozhik hedgehog A short pompadour with a flat top was considered the standard while a somewhat curved appearance across the top was suggested for wider foreheads and face shapes 12 The style with a flat top acquired the name brush top short pompadour and the style with a more rounded top round top short pompadour 13 Prior to the invention of electric clippers with a motor in the handle in 1921 and their ensuing marketing and widespread use barbers considered the perfect short pompadour to be the most time consuming style to trim 12 14 15 16 nbsp Author Jack Kerouac sporting a G I crew cut in 1943The term crew haircut was most likely coined to describe the hairstyles worn by members of Harvard Yale Princeton Cornell and other university crew teams which were short to keep the hair from being blown into the face of the rower as the boat races down the course opposite the direction the rower is seated with both hands on the oars making it impossible to brush the hair out of the face 17 18 19 20 The name drew a contrast to football haircuts which had been long since 1889 when Princeton football players began wearing long hair to protect against head injury thereby starting a trend not altogether welcome mop haired football players were frequently caricatured in the popular press 21 6 In 1895 the championship Yale football team appeared with close cropped heads and subsequently long hair went out of style for football Almost concurrently the first helmets began to appear 21 Crew cuts were popular in the 1920s and 1930s among college students particularly in the Ivy League The style was often worn as a summer haircut for its cooling effect 18 19 20 22 Men inducted into the military in World War II received G I haircuts crew cuts and a significant proportion continued to wear a crew cut while serving and after as civilians 23 24 25 26 27 28 As long hair became popular in the mid 1960s the crew cut and its variants waned in popularity through the 1970s 29 30 The crew cut began to come back into style in the late 1970s and early 1980s with the flat top crew cut being the most popular crew cut style during the 1980s 31 32 Styling edit nbsp Crew cut Marine Lieutenant 2011 The side profile shows graduation of the top hair shorter from the front hairline to the crown Thicker hair that wants to readily stand upright is ideal for a crew cut with an appropriate head shape a crew cut may be possible with fairly thin hair 3 When designing a crew cut a barber follows the general sequence of other medium to short haircuts edging siding and topping 3 1 When designing a new crew cut and the current style is not relatively short the hair on top or all over the head may initially be shortened with shears or clippers Edging and siding together form a taper which usually is short semi short or medium 3 For a crew cut some barbers perform edging and siding as one integrated process regardless the upper sides are initially boxed in and then cut to final form when designing the top 1 The hair on the top of the head can be styled clipper or shears over comb or free hand with a clipper 1 nbsp Duke player Jack Mullen 20 depicted with a crew cut designed for a widow s peak receded hairline while playing basketballWith the clipper or shears over comb method the comb is inserted in the upright hair at the desired length and the hair is reduced to this length by means of clippers or shears severing the hair above the teeth of the comb 33 Freehand means the clipper blade or guard does not determine the cut hair length but rather the distance the cutting blade is held above the scalp sets the cut length The barber selects the most complementary final form for the top according to face shape skull shape frontal hairline and facial features within parameters set by customer instructions Specifically the short pompadour front can be made higher or lower wider or narrower and can be flattened or arched to varying degrees across the forehead the hair over the rest of the top can be more rounded or flattened the upper sides can have more or less volume 2 In side profile the outward appearance of the upright top hair should approach the horizontal if the hair is cut so the upright top hair appears horizontal when the head is viewed from the front as well as the side as a flat plane the style is generally referred to as a flat top crew cut or flat top per customer wishes and the shape of the skull and frontal hairline the flat plane can be level upward or downward sloping relative to the forehead 2 8 9 A crew cut with a longer top can be referred to in the US as an ivy league crew cut or ivy league 6 7 A long crew cut might be graduated in length on the top of the head from 1 1 2 inches 38 mm at the front hairline to 1 2 inch 13 mm at the back of the crown 34 35 A crew cut with a shorter top might have a similar proportional graduated difference in the length of the hair on the top of the head If a short crew cut is 3 4 inch 19 mm at the front hairline the length of the hair at the back of the crown might be 1 4 inch 6 4 mm 8 9 Crew cut gallery edit nbsp Crew cut top short back sides semi short taper sideburns short short pomp pompadour front flattened mid top flattened crown rounded front hairline average wavy hair Chet Jastremski in 1963 nbsp Crew cut top short back sides short taper sideburns semi short short pomp pompadour front arched mid top rounded crown rounded front hairline slightly asymmetric with a cow lick at off center right wavy hair Jesse Metcalfe nbsp Crew cut top medium back sides semi short taper sideburns long short pomp pompadour front arched mid top rounded crown rounded front hairline average very curly hair Darryl Stephens nbsp Crew cut top medium back sides semi short taper sideburns semi short short pomp pompadour front arched mid top flattened crown flattened front hairline widow peak receded curly hair nbsp Crew cut top medium back sides medium taper sideburns medium short pomp pompadour front flattened mid top rounded crown rounded front hairline average curly hair Bobby Hull nbsp Crew cut top long back sides medium taper sideburns medium short pomp pompadour front arched mid top rounded crown rounded front hairline lower than average straight hair Jensen Ackles nbsp Crew cut top long back sides semi short taper sideburns short short pomp pompadour front arched mid top rounded crown rounded front hairline average wavy hair Colton Haynes nbsp Billy HarrisSee also editList of hairstyles Blades and guards Butch cut Buzz cut Flattop High and tight Ivy League Mullet Regular haircutReferences edit a b c d Trusty 1971 p 108 a b c d Trusty 1971 p 107 a b c d e f Thorpe 1967 p 132 Trusty 1971 p 107 108 Trusty 1971 p 113 a b c d Trusty 1971 p 97 a b Trusty 1971 p 102 a b c Thorpe 1967 p 133 134 a b c Trusty 1971 pp 110 111 35 Best Military Haircuts Men s Hairstyles Today March 23 2023 Retrieved April 4 2023 Moler 1911 p 82 83 a b Moler 1911 p 82 Thorpe 1958 p 141 History of Andis Archived from the original on 2015 02 10 Retrieved 2013 04 22 Andis Our History Thorpe 1967 p 120 John Hay Whitney Philanthropist Film Producer and Father of the Crew Cut Yale Alumni Magazine April 2002 a b Pompadours Passe Says Barber Collegetown Condemns Crew Cuts The Cornell Daily Sun Vol 100 no 141 25 March 1937 a b Obecure Origins of the Crew Haircut Revealed by Harvard Square Barbers The Harvard Crimson 23 November 1935 a b Two Fisted Stout Jawed Movie Idol Plus Crew Haircut Resembles Composite Undergraduate The Daily Princetonian Vol 65 no 46 27 March 1940 permanent dead link a b Beau Riffenburgh The Official NFL Encyclopedia The Helmet Crew Haircut With Back Sheared Is The Male Method For Beating The Heat Life Vol 11 no 2 14 July 1941 The Men 300 000 New Sailors Will Make The Navy Their Career Life Vol 9 no 18 28 October 1940 Gordon L Rottman 2007 Fubar Soldier Slang of World War II p 52 ISBN 9781846031755 permanent dead link George Thomas Simon 1974 Glen Miller and His Orchestra p 343 ISBN 0306801299 permanent dead link Victoria Sherrow 2006 Encyclopedia of hair p 194 ISBN 9780313331459 The Great Hair Hangup Boys Life 45 July 1967 MANNERS amp MORALS Teen Age Moderation Time 16 February 1959 Archived from the original on September 15 2008 The Great Hair Hangup Boys Life 29 July 1967 Kaminsky 10 May 1974 Long Hair Style Trends Cut Short The Cornell Daily Sun 100 141 Victoria Sherrow 2006 Encyclopedia of hair p 101 ISBN 9780313331459 Victoria Sherrow 2006 Encyclopedia of hair p 54 ISBN 9780313331459 Trusty 1971 p 65 68 Thorpe 1967 p 128 129 Trusty 1971 p 89 90 135 136 Bibliography editMoler A B 1911 Standardized Barbers Manual Unnattributed Publisher Thorpe S C 1958 Practice and Science of Standard Barbering Milady Publishing Corporation Thorpe S C 1967 Practice and Science of Standard Barbering Milady Publishing Corporation Trusty L Sherman 1971 The Art and Science of Barbering Wolfer Printing Co External links edit nbsp The dictionary definition of crew cut at Wiktionary nbsp Media related to Crew cuts at Wikimedia Commons A brief description of the term s history in the Yale Alumni Magazine A brief description of the term s history in the Yale Daily News Agonies Of Victory For Comeback Crew Life Dec 10 1956 Includes photos of crew cut Olympic Gold Medal winning Yale oarsmen Crew Haircut With Back Sheared Is The Male Method For Beating The Heat Life July 14 1941 Includes before and after photos Obecure Origins of the Crew Haircut Revealed by Harvard Square Barbers Harvard Crimson November 23 1935 Pompadours Passe Says Barber Collegetown Condemns Crew Cuts Cornell Daily Sun March 25 1937 Page 1 Princeton Oarsmen Pick Bayard To Lead 1940 Varsity Crew Includes photo of crew cut Crew Captain The Daily Princetonian May 24 1939 Stout Jawed Movie Idol Plus Crew Haircut Resembles Composite Undergraduate The Daily Princetonian March 27 1940 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Crew cut amp oldid 1214799471, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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