"Rappel" redirects here. For the town in Estonia formerly known as Rappel, see Rapla.
Abseiling (/ˈæbseɪl/AB-saylor/ˈɑːpzaɪl/AHP-zyle; from German abseilen 'to rope down'), also known as rappelling (/ˈræpɛl/RAP-pellor/rəˈpɛl/rə-PELL; from French rappeler 'to recall, to pull through'), is the controlled descent of a steep slope, such as a rock face, by moving down a rope. When abseiling, the person descending controls their own movement down the rope, in contrast to lowering off, in which the rope attached to the person descending is paid out by their belayer.
A time-lapse panorama of a rock climber abseiling off a climb
The technique is used by climbers, mountaineers, cavers, canyoners, search and rescue and rope access technicians to descend cliffs or slopes when they are too steep and/or dangerous to descend without protection. Many climbers use this technique to protect established anchors from damage. Rope access technicians also use this as a method to access difficult-to-reach areas from above for various industrial applications like maintenance, construction, inspection and welding.[1]
To descend safely, abseilers use a variety of techniques to increase the friction on the rope to the point where it can be controlled comfortably. These techniques range from wrapping the rope around their body (e.g. the Dülfersitz technique) to using custom-built devices like a rack or a figure of 8. Practitioners choose a technique based on speed, safety, weight and other circumstantial concerns.
In the United States, the term "rappelling" is used.[2][3] In the United Kingdom, both terms are understood,[4] but "abseiling" is more common.[5][6] In Australia, New Zealand and Canada, the two terms are used interchangeably. Globally, the term "rappelling" appears in books written in English more often than "abseiling".[7]
HistoryEdit
The origin of the term rappel in reference to the technique is attributed by Roger Frison-Roche [fr] circa 1944.[8] Frison in turn attributed the technique of abseiling to Jean Charlet-Straton [fr], a Chamonix guide who lived from 1840 to 1925. Charlet originally devised the technique during a failed solo attempt of Petit Dru in 1876.[9] After many attempts, some of them solo, he managed to reach the summit of the Petit Dru in 1879 in the company of two other hired Chamonix guides, Prosper Payot and Frédéric Folliguet. During that ascent, Charlet mastered the technique.[citation needed]
Early Dülfersitz or body abseil technique did not require a harness or any equipment
Later double carabiner brake abseil technique used simple carabiner and sling as a harness
Another carabiner based abseil technique
The figure 8 belay device was one of the earliest specialized abseil device, which often required gloves. Now used mostly by military as it allows greater speed of descent
Modern abseiling technique used by climbers uses belay device
Cave abseils can be long and might have to be done using ropes with varying degrees of friction, using a device such as a brake bar rack
Anchors: Usually constructed from trees, boulders, ice or rock features, using webbing/cordelette, or rock climbing equipment. Some areas have fixed anchors such as bolts or pitons.
A descender: A friction device or friction hitch that allows rope to be played out in a controlled fashion, under load, with a minimal effort by the person controlling it.
Helmets: Used to protect the head from bumps and falling rocks.
Gloves: Used to protect hands from the rope and from colliding with the wall. May increase the risk of accident by becoming caught in the descender.[10]
Industrial/commercial applications – to access parts of structures or buildings so as to perform maintenance, cleaning or construction, known as rope access.
Confined spaces access – e.g. ballast tanks, manholes
Rescue applications – used to access injured people on or nearby cliffs.
Military applications – tactical heliborne insertion of troops, including special forces, into the battlefield close to the objective when proper landing zones are not available.
Styles/techniquesEdit
Australian rappel demonstrated at a dam in NorwayRescue-style (eared) figure eight descender and rope
Australian rappel — Used in the military. The abseiler descends facing downwards allowing them to see where they are going.
Tandem or spider abseiling — Used in climbing. Involves two climbers descending on the same belay device. This is useful in rescue situations when one of the climbers is incapacitated or the descent needs to be done quickly. The set-up is similar to a regular rappelling, with the incapacitated climber suspended from the descender (and backed up on the primary climbers harness).[11]
Simul-rappelling or simultaneously rappelling — Used in climbing and canyoning. Two climbers descend simultaneously on the same length of rope, where one climber’s weight counterbalances the other. Generally the technique is considered less safe than the regular rappelling; however, it is useful in case of emergencies, or for rapping off opposite sides of a fin or spire where there are no anchor points. This is common in places like the Needles of South Dakota’s Black Hills.[12]
Counterbalance abseiling — Used in climbing. This rescue technique is typically used by a leader to reach an injured second. The leader abseils off on one strand of rope, using the incapacitated second's weight on the other strand of the rope as a counterbalance.
Releasable abseil — Used by guides. This safety technique allows a leader to descend with inexperienced abseilers. A rope about twice the length of the descent is anchored with a munter mule hitch. The client descends on a single isolated strand of the rope. If the client becomes stuck halfway down the guide will be able to unlock the other strand and lower the client to the ground using the hitch as a belay device. This could be useful if the client panics, or gets clothing or hair entangled in the descender.
Classical (non-mechanical methods), e.g. the Dülfersitz — Used in emergencies. These technique are more dangerous than modern alternatives and only used when no other option is available. They involve descending without aid of mechanical devices, by wrapping the rope around the body, and were used before the advent of harnesses and hardware.
South African classical abseil (double-roped) — Used in emergencies. This is a type of classical abseil where the user has a spare hand.
Fireman's Belay — Safety backup. A partner stands on the ground below holding the rope(s). If the abseiler begins to fall they will be able to pull down on the rope to arrest the descent.[13]
SafetyEdit
Abseiling can be dangerous and presents risks, especially to unsupervised or inexperienced abseilers. According to German mountaineer Pit Schubert, about 25% of climbing deaths occur during abseiling, most commonly due to failing anchors.[14] An analysis of American Alpine Club accident reports shows that this is followed by inadequate safety backups and rappelling off the ends of ropes.[15]
Environmental concernsEdit
Abseiling is prohibited or discouraged in some areas, as it may cause environmental damage, conflict with climbers heading upwards, and/or endanger people on the ground.[16][17]
^Drummond, Liz (August 12, 2013). "How to Simul-Rappel". Climbing. Retrieved 7 March 2016.
^"Backing Up An Abseil". Chockstone Climbing in Australia.
^Pit Schubert, Sicherheit und Risiko in Fels und Eis vol. I, München 2009, p.104
^"Know the Ropes: Rappelling – Fundamentals to save your life" (PDF). American Alpine Club. Retrieved February 24, 2018.
^"Adventurous to be roped off from more of mountains". Sydney Morning Herald. 16 August 2002. Retrieved February 24, 2018.
^"Arch Swinging Banned in Moab". Outside. 9 January 2015. Retrieved February 24, 2018.
External linksEdit
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Abseiling.
Look up abseiling in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
BMC: Abseiling: Not the quickest way to reach the ground
Abseiling: Information and instruction for charities to fundraise
October 15, 2023
abseiling, rappel, redirects, here, town, estonia, formerly, known, rappel, rapla, sayl, ɑː, zyle, from, german, abseilen, rope, down, also, known, rappelling, pell, pell, from, french, rappeler, recall, pull, through, controlled, descent, steep, slope, such, . Rappel redirects here For the town in Estonia formerly known as Rappel see Rapla Abseiling ˈ ae b s eɪ l AB sayl or ˈ ɑː p z aɪ l AHP zyle from German abseilen to rope down also known as rappelling ˈ r ae p ɛ l RAP pell or r e ˈ p ɛ l re PELL from French rappeler to recall to pull through is the controlled descent of a steep slope such as a rock face by moving down a rope When abseiling the person descending controls their own movement down the rope in contrast to lowering off in which the rope attached to the person descending is paid out by their belayer A time lapse panorama of a rock climber abseiling off a climb Contents 1 Description 2 History 3 Equipment 4 Application 5 Styles techniques 6 Safety 7 Environmental concerns 8 See also 9 References and footnotes 10 External linksDescription EditThe technique is used by climbers mountaineers cavers canyoners search and rescue and rope access technicians to descend cliffs or slopes when they are too steep and or dangerous to descend without protection Many climbers use this technique to protect established anchors from damage Rope access technicians also use this as a method to access difficult to reach areas from above for various industrial applications like maintenance construction inspection and welding 1 To descend safely abseilers use a variety of techniques to increase the friction on the rope to the point where it can be controlled comfortably These techniques range from wrapping the rope around their body e g the Dulfersitz technique to using custom built devices like a rack or a figure of 8 Practitioners choose a technique based on speed safety weight and other circumstantial concerns In the United States the term rappelling is used 2 3 In the United Kingdom both terms are understood 4 but abseiling is more common 5 6 In Australia New Zealand and Canada the two terms are used interchangeably Globally the term rappelling appears in books written in English more often than abseiling 7 History EditThe origin of the term rappel in reference to the technique is attributed by Roger Frison Roche fr circa 1944 8 Frison in turn attributed the technique of abseiling to Jean Charlet Straton fr a Chamonix guide who lived from 1840 to 1925 Charlet originally devised the technique during a failed solo attempt of Petit Dru in 1876 9 After many attempts some of them solo he managed to reach the summit of the Petit Dru in 1879 in the company of two other hired Chamonix guides Prosper Payot and Frederic Folliguet During that ascent Charlet mastered the technique citation needed nbsp Early Dulfersitz or body abseil technique did not require a harness or any equipment nbsp Later double carabiner brake abseil technique used simple carabiner and sling as a harness nbsp Another carabiner based abseil technique nbsp The figure 8 belay device was one of the earliest specialized abseil device which often required gloves Now used mostly by military as it allows greater speed of descent nbsp Modern abseiling technique used by climbers uses belay device nbsp Cave abseils can be long and might have to be done using ropes with varying degrees of friction using a device such as a brake bar rack source source source source source source source Abseiling from a building in JapanEquipment EditRopes Static rope is ideal but often dynamic rope is used Anchors Usually constructed from trees boulders ice or rock features using webbing cordelette or rock climbing equipment Some areas have fixed anchors such as bolts or pitons A descender A friction device or friction hitch that allows rope to be played out in a controlled fashion under load with a minimal effort by the person controlling it Climbing harness Fixed around the waist or whole body used to secure the descender Fit is important to prevent suspension trauma Safety back up Typically a friction hitch such as a Prusik Klemheist knot or autoblock knot wrapped around the rope as to prevent uncontrolled descents Helmets Used to protect the head from bumps and falling rocks Gloves Used to protect hands from the rope and from colliding with the wall May increase the risk of accident by becoming caught in the descender 10 Boots or climbing shoes Used to increase friction against the rock Knee pads and sometimes elbow pads Application Edit nbsp A United States Air Force Pararescueman rappels from a helicopter during a training exercise in Iraq 2008Abseiling is used in a number of applications including Climbing for returning to the base of a climb or to a point where one can try a new route Recreation Canyoning to descend tall waterfalls and or cliffs Mountaineering Caving and speleology where underground pitches need to be accessed Adventure racing Industrial commercial applications to access parts of structures or buildings so as to perform maintenance cleaning or construction known as rope access Access to wildfires Confined spaces access e g ballast tanks manholes Rescue applications used to access injured people on or nearby cliffs Military applications tactical heliborne insertion of troops including special forces into the battlefield close to the objective when proper landing zones are not available Styles techniques Edit nbsp Australian rappel demonstrated at a dam in Norway nbsp Rescue style eared figure eight descender and ropeAustralian rappel Used in the military The abseiler descends facing downwards allowing them to see where they are going Tandem or spider abseiling Used in climbing Involves two climbers descending on the same belay device This is useful in rescue situations when one of the climbers is incapacitated or the descent needs to be done quickly The set up is similar to a regular rappelling with the incapacitated climber suspended from the descender and backed up on the primary climbers harness 11 Simul rappelling or simultaneously rappelling Used in climbing and canyoning Two climbers descend simultaneously on the same length of rope where one climber s weight counterbalances the other Generally the technique is considered less safe than the regular rappelling however it is useful in case of emergencies or for rapping off opposite sides of a fin or spire where there are no anchor points This is common in places like the Needles of South Dakota s Black Hills 12 Counterbalance abseiling Used in climbing This rescue technique is typically used by a leader to reach an injured second The leader abseils off on one strand of rope using the incapacitated second s weight on the other strand of the rope as a counterbalance Releasable abseil Used by guides This safety technique allows a leader to descend with inexperienced abseilers A rope about twice the length of the descent is anchored with a munter mule hitch The client descends on a single isolated strand of the rope If the client becomes stuck halfway down the guide will be able to unlock the other strand and lower the client to the ground using the hitch as a belay device This could be useful if the client panics or gets clothing or hair entangled in the descender Classical non mechanical methods e g the Dulfersitz Used in emergencies These technique are more dangerous than modern alternatives and only used when no other option is available They involve descending without aid of mechanical devices by wrapping the rope around the body and were used before the advent of harnesses and hardware South African classical abseil double roped Used in emergencies This is a type of classical abseil where the user has a spare hand Fireman s Belay Safety backup A partner stands on the ground below holding the rope s If the abseiler begins to fall they will be able to pull down on the rope to arrest the descent 13 Safety EditAbseiling can be dangerous and presents risks especially to unsupervised or inexperienced abseilers According to German mountaineer Pit Schubert about 25 of climbing deaths occur during abseiling most commonly due to failing anchors 14 An analysis of American Alpine Club accident reports shows that this is followed by inadequate safety backups and rappelling off the ends of ropes 15 Environmental concerns EditAbseiling is prohibited or discouraged in some areas as it may cause environmental damage conflict with climbers heading upwards and or endanger people on the ground 16 17 See also Edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Abseiling Glossary of climbing terms Canyoning Caving Mountaineering Search and rescueReferences and footnotes Edit Hill Pete 2008 The Complete Guide to Climbing and Mountaineering David amp Charles p 67 ISBN 978 0 7153 2844 6 11 English Words the British Know that Americans Don t 11points com Retrieved 2012 02 01 Google Ngram viewer American English comparison of abseil abseiling rappel and rappelling Retrieved 2019 02 01 Oxford British amp World English definition of rappel Retrieved 2018 02 01 dead link rappel Collins Dictionary Retrieved February 24 2018 Google Ngram viewer comparison of British English usage of rappel rappelling abseil and abseiling Retrieved 2019 02 01 Google Ngram viewer English comparison of abseil abseiling rappel and rappelling Retrieved 2019 02 01 Roger Frison Rocheand and Sylvain Jouty A History of Mountain Climbing Paris France Flammarion 1996 ISBN 2 08 013622 4 302 Jean Esteril Charlet and Mary Isabella Straton A Fairy Tale Alpinist com Retrieved 2019 02 01 A Complete List of Abseiling Equipment 3D Rope Access Archived from the original on 2016 06 11 Retrieved 2016 05 13 Spider Abseiling StudyRockClimbing com Drummond Liz August 12 2013 How to Simul Rappel Climbing Retrieved 7 March 2016 Backing Up An Abseil Chockstone Climbing in Australia Pit Schubert Sicherheit und Risiko in Fels und Eis vol I Munchen 2009 p 104 Know the Ropes Rappelling Fundamentals to save your life PDF American Alpine Club Retrieved February 24 2018 Adventurous to be roped off from more of mountains Sydney Morning Herald 16 August 2002 Retrieved February 24 2018 Arch Swinging Banned in Moab Outside 9 January 2015 Retrieved February 24 2018 External links Edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Abseiling nbsp Look up abseiling in Wiktionary the free dictionary BMC Abseiling Not the quickest way to reach the ground Abseiling Information and instruction for charities to fundraise Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Abseiling amp oldid 1177721349, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
