The 1934 Nanga Parbat climbing disaster resulted in the loss of 10 lives on Nanga Parbat, the world's ninth-highest mountain[1] and one of the 14 eight-thousanders.[2] The disaster, which happened during the 1934 climbing season, included nine climbers who died in what was, at the time, the single deadliest mountaineering accident in history.
In 1934, German climber Willy Merkl led a well financed expedition to Nanga Parbat (located in Jammu and Kashmir, British India; present-day Gilgit-Baltistan, northeastern Pakistan),[3] with the full backing of the new Nazigovernment. Early in the expedition Alfred Drexel [de] died, probably of high-altitude pulmonary edema.[4] The Tyrolean climbers Peter Aschenbrenner [de] and Erwin Schneider [de] reached an estimated height of (7,895 m / 25,900 ft) on July 6, but were forced to return because of worsening weather. On July 7, they and 14 others were trapped by a ferocious storm at 7,480 m (24,540 ft). During the desperate retreat that followed, three famous German mountaineers, Ulrich Wieland [de], Willo Welzenbach [de] and Merkl himself, as well as six Sherpas, died of exhaustion, exposure and altitude sickness, and several more suffered severe frostbite. The last survivor to reach safety, Ang Tsering, did so having spent seven days battling through the storm.[5] It has been said that the disaster, "for sheer protracted agony, has no parallel in climbing annals."[6]
Booksedit
Jonathan Neale wrote a book about the 1934 climbing season on Nanga Parbat called Tigers of the Snow. He interviewed many old Sherpas, including Ang Tsering, the last man off Nanga Parbat alive in 1934. The book attempts to narrate what went wrong on the expedition, set against mountaineering history of the early twentieth century, the background of German politics in the 1930s, and the hardship and passion of life in the Sherpa valleys.[7]
Mason, Kenneth (1987) [1955 published by Rupert Hart-Davis]. Abode of Snow: A History of Himalayan Exploration and Mountaineering From Earliest Times to the Ascent of Everest. Diadem Books. ISBN978-0-906371-91-6.
Lemtur, Nokmedemla. "Locating Himalayan porters in the Archivalien der Expeditionsgesellschaften of the German Alpine Club (1929–1939)". MIDA Archival Reflexicon. Max Weber Stiftung. doi:10.25360/01-2022-00026. Retrieved 2023-03-15.
Notes
^"Nanga Parbat". Britannica. 25 July 2013. Retrieved 17 December 2022.
^"Nanga Parbat | mountain, Jammu and Kashmir". Retrieved 2022-12-17.
^Neale, Jonathan (2002). Tigers of the snow : how one fateful climb made the Sherpas mountaineering legends. New York: St. Martin's Press. ISBN0-312-26623-5. OCLC 48501051.
Further readingedit
Bechtold, Fritz (1936). Nanga Parbat Adventure: A Himalayan Expedition. Translated by Tyndale, H.E.G. (First ed.). New York: E.P. Dutton.
May 02, 2024
1934, nanga, parbat, climbing, disaster, resulted, loss, lives, nanga, parbat, world, ninth, highest, mountain, eight, thousanders, disaster, which, happened, during, 1934, climbing, season, included, nine, climbers, died, what, time, single, deadliest, mounta. The 1934 Nanga Parbat climbing disaster resulted in the loss of 10 lives on Nanga Parbat the world s ninth highest mountain 1 and one of the 14 eight thousanders 2 The disaster which happened during the 1934 climbing season included nine climbers who died in what was at the time the single deadliest mountaineering accident in history Nanga Parbat Willy Merkl leader of the expedition Contents 1 Event 2 Books 3 See also 4 References 5 Further readingEvent editIn 1934 German climber Willy Merkl led a well financed expedition to Nanga Parbat located in Jammu and Kashmir British India present day Gilgit Baltistan northeastern Pakistan 3 with the full backing of the new Nazi government Early in the expedition Alfred Drexel de died probably of high altitude pulmonary edema 4 The Tyrolean climbers Peter Aschenbrenner de and Erwin Schneider de reached an estimated height of 7 895 m 25 900 ft on July 6 but were forced to return because of worsening weather On July 7 they and 14 others were trapped by a ferocious storm at 7 480 m 24 540 ft During the desperate retreat that followed three famous German mountaineers Ulrich Wieland de Willo Welzenbach de and Merkl himself as well as six Sherpas died of exhaustion exposure and altitude sickness and several more suffered severe frostbite The last survivor to reach safety Ang Tsering did so having spent seven days battling through the storm 5 It has been said that the disaster for sheer protracted agony has no parallel in climbing annals 6 Books editJonathan Neale wrote a book about the 1934 climbing season on Nanga Parbat called Tigers of the Snow He interviewed many old Sherpas including Ang Tsering the last man off Nanga Parbat alive in 1934 The book attempts to narrate what went wrong on the expedition set against mountaineering history of the early twentieth century the background of German politics in the 1930s and the hardship and passion of life in the Sherpa valleys 7 See also editList of deaths on eight thousandersReferences editMason Kenneth 1987 1955 published by Rupert Hart Davis Abode of Snow A History of Himalayan Exploration and Mountaineering From Earliest Times to the Ascent of Everest Diadem Books ISBN 978 0 906371 91 6 Simpson Joe 1997 Dark Shadows Falling London Jonathan Cape ISBN 0 224 04368 4 Lemtur Nokmedemla Locating Himalayan porters in the Archivalien der Expeditionsgesellschaften of the German Alpine Club 1929 1939 MIDA Archival Reflexicon Max Weber Stiftung doi 10 25360 01 2022 00026 Retrieved 2023 03 15 Notes Nanga Parbat Britannica 25 July 2013 Retrieved 17 December 2022 Nanga Parbat mountain Jammu and Kashmir Retrieved 2022 12 17 Nanga Parbat Britannica Retrieved 2022 12 17 Neale pp 123 130 Mason pp 230 233 Simpson pp 196 197 Neale Jonathan 2002 Tigers of the snow how one fateful climb made the Sherpas mountaineering legends New York St Martin s Press ISBN 0 312 26623 5 OCLC 48501051 Further reading editBechtold Fritz 1936 Nanga Parbat Adventure A Himalayan Expedition Translated by Tyndale H E G First ed New York E P Dutton Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title 1934 Nanga Parbat climbing disaster amp oldid 1189009998, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
