Sumantri Peak (also spelled Soemantri or Soemantri Brodjonegoro[1][2]) is a sharp mountain in the western Sudirman Range (Papua). It rises 4,870 metres (15,978 ft).
Sumantri Peak
Puncak Sumantri
The Northwall Firn glacier with Sumantri (sharp peak, center) and Ngga Pulu (flat peak, right).
The peak is approximately 2 km northeast of Carstensz Pyramid (4,884 m), the highest mountain of Oceania. The north side of Sumantri is dominated by tremendous cliffs, part of the Noordwand (Northwall) of the Carstensz Massif, that wrap around to the eastern and western sides of the mountain. Remnants of the once mighty Northwall Firn (now separated into eastern and western parts) cling tenuously to the southern aspects of the peak. It is unlikely that this ice will last for more than the next 15 years[when?].[2]
Before 1973 the summit was known as the NW summit of Ngga Pulu. The 1936 Carstensz Expedition called it the "Second Peak of the North Wall".[3]Heinrich Harrer labeled it Ngapalu on his map drawn in 1962, while calling the SE peak of Ngga Pulu "Sunday Peak". Describing his ascent of both peaks in 1972, Dick Isherwood followed this nomenclature, using Ngga Poloe for what is now Sumantri and Sunday Peak for what is now known as Ngga Pulu.[4]
The Indonesian government renamed the NW summit after professor Sumantri Brodjonegoro [id], Minister of Energy and Mineral Resources of the Republic of Indonesia, after he had died in office in 1973 at the age of 47.
Climbing history
The neighboring and, at the time, higher SE summit of Ngga Pulu was first climbed by a Dutch expedition in 1936 (Anton Colijn, Jean Jacques Dozy and Frits Wissel).[3] The NW summit was first climbed in February 1962 by Heinrich Harrer, Philip Temple, Russel Kippax and Bert Huizenga after their first ascent of Carstensz Pyramid.
The 600 m high north cliff was first climbed by Reinhold Messner in a solo effort on 27 September 1971, after he had second-ascended the Carstensz Pyramid with his client Sergio Bigarella earlier in the week.[5] A year later Leo Murray, Jack Baines, and Dick Isherwood climbed both peaks of Ngga Pulu and found the peg that Meisner had left behind on top of the North Face of what they called Ngga Poloe (now Sumantri).[4][5]
Geology and glaciers
The mountains of Central Papua are being formed as the Australian and Pacific Plates collide, resulting in both subduction and uplifting. The rocks at the surface for the peaks in this range are made of limestone. As a result, even though the summit block of the peak looks extremely daunting, it is a fairly easy scramble.
Due to the melting of the Northwall Firn from the SE peak of Ngga Pulu, this summit is now the highest point of the north ridge of Mount Carstensz. Furthermore, due to the complete vanishing of the Meren Glacier, its topographic prominence has increased from what would have been ~200 m to ~350 m. Sumantri could be considered the second highest independent mountain of Oceania, and it features on some Seven Second Summits lists.[6][7][8][9]
^ abJean Jacques Dozy (2002) Vom höchsten Gipfel bis in die tiefste Grube. Entdeckung und Erschliessung der Gold - und Kupfererz - Lagerstätten von Irian Jaya, Indonesien 2012-04-02 at the Wayback Machine, Bull. angew. Geol. 7, pp 67-80.
sumantri, peak, also, spelled, soemantri, soemantri, brodjonegoro, sharp, mountain, western, sudirman, range, papua, rises, metres, peakpuncak, northwall, firn, glacier, with, sharp, peak, center, ngga, pulu, flat, peak, right, highest, pointelevation4, promin. Sumantri Peak also spelled Soemantri or Soemantri Brodjonegoro 1 2 is a sharp mountain in the western Sudirman Range Papua It rises 4 870 metres 15 978 ft Sumantri PeakPuncak SumantriThe Northwall Firn glacier with Sumantri sharp peak center and Ngga Pulu flat peak right Highest pointElevation4 870 m 15 980 ft Prominence350 m 1 150 ft Coordinates4 03 43 S 137 11 06 E 4 06194 S 137 18500 E 4 06194 137 18500GeographySumantri PeakLocation in PapuaShow map of Papua province Sumantri PeakLocation in Western New GuineaShow map of Western New GuineaSumantri PeakLocation in New GuineaShow map of New GuineaLocationCentral Papua IndonesiaRegionWestern New GuineaParent rangeSudirman RangeClimbingFirst ascentFebruary 1962Easiest routerock snow ice climbThe peak is approximately 2 km northeast of Carstensz Pyramid 4 884 m the highest mountain of Oceania The north side of Sumantri is dominated by tremendous cliffs part of the Noordwand Northwall of the Carstensz Massif that wrap around to the eastern and western sides of the mountain Remnants of the once mighty Northwall Firn now separated into eastern and western parts cling tenuously to the southern aspects of the peak It is unlikely that this ice will last for more than the next 15 years when 2 Contents 1 Name 2 Climbing history 3 Geology and glaciers 4 References 5 External linksName EditBefore 1973 the summit was known as the NW summit of Ngga Pulu The 1936 Carstensz Expedition called it the Second Peak of the North Wall 3 Heinrich Harrer labeled it Ngapalu on his map drawn in 1962 while calling the SE peak of Ngga Pulu Sunday Peak Describing his ascent of both peaks in 1972 Dick Isherwood followed this nomenclature using Ngga Poloe for what is now Sumantri and Sunday Peak for what is now known as Ngga Pulu 4 The Indonesian government renamed the NW summit after professor Sumantri Brodjonegoro id Minister of Energy and Mineral Resources of the Republic of Indonesia after he had died in office in 1973 at the age of 47 Climbing history EditThe neighboring and at the time higher SE summit of Ngga Pulu was first climbed by a Dutch expedition in 1936 Anton Colijn Jean Jacques Dozy and Frits Wissel 3 The NW summit was first climbed in February 1962 by Heinrich Harrer Philip Temple Russel Kippax and Bert Huizenga after their first ascent of Carstensz Pyramid The 600 m high north cliff was first climbed by Reinhold Messner in a solo effort on 27 September 1971 after he had second ascended the Carstensz Pyramid with his client Sergio Bigarella earlier in the week 5 A year later Leo Murray Jack Baines and Dick Isherwood climbed both peaks of Ngga Pulu and found the peg that Meisner had left behind on top of the North Face of what they called Ngga Poloe now Sumantri 4 5 Geology and glaciers EditThe mountains of Central Papua are being formed as the Australian and Pacific Plates collide resulting in both subduction and uplifting The rocks at the surface for the peaks in this range are made of limestone As a result even though the summit block of the peak looks extremely daunting it is a fairly easy scramble Due to the melting of the Northwall Firn from the SE peak of Ngga Pulu this summit is now the highest point of the north ridge of Mount Carstensz Furthermore due to the complete vanishing of the Meren Glacier its topographic prominence has increased from what would have been 200 m to 350 m Sumantri could be considered the second highest independent mountain of Oceania and it features on some Seven Second Summits lists 6 7 8 9 References Edit Gunung gunung Indonesia a b SummitPost org Sumantri Climbing Hiking amp Mountaineering a b Jean Jacques Dozy 2002 Vom hochsten Gipfel bis in die tiefste Grube Entdeckung und Erschliessung der Gold und Kupfererz Lagerstatten von Irian Jaya Indonesien Archived 2012 04 02 at the Wayback Machine Bull angew Geol 7 pp 67 80 a b R J Isherwood The Dugundugoo The Alpine Journal 1973 pp 188 194 a b Reinhold Messner Die Freheit aufzubrechen whoin ich will Piper Verlag Munich 1989 pp 189 194 Sumantri Ngga Pulu Skyrunning at Sumantri the true 2 Eberhard Jurgalski Triple Seven Summits download pdf 8000ers com 2013 Heinrich Harrer Beyond Seven Years in Tibet My Life Before During and After 2007 pp 283 290External links EditSummitPost org Sumantri Climbing Hiking amp Mountaineering Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Sumantri amp oldid 1122226328, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
