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Stirling Range

January 01, 1970

The Stirling Range or Koikyennuruff is a range of mountains and hills in the Great Southern region of Western Australia, 337 kilometres (209 mi) south-east of Perth. It is over 60 kilometres (37 mi) wide from west to east, stretching from the highway between Mount Barker and Cranbrook eastward past Gnowangerup. The Stirling Range is protected by the Stirling Range National Park, which was gazetted in 1913, and has an area of 1,159 km2 (447 sq mi).

Stirling Range
(Koikyennuruff)
Satellite image of the park. The sharp boundaries on all sides of the park show where agriculture immediately gives way to protected land.
Highest point
PeakBluff Knoll
Elevation1,099 m (3,606 ft)
Geography
Stirling Range
(Koikyennuruff)
CountryAustralia
StateWestern Australia
Range coordinates34°24′S 118°09′E / 34.400°S 118.150°E / -34.400; 118.150

Environment

Geology

The mountains are formed of metamorphic rock derived from quartz sandstones and shales deposited during the Paleoproterozoic Era, between 2,016 and 1,215 million years ago (based on U-Th-Pb isotope geochronology of monazite crystals). The sediments were subsequently metamorphosed 1,215 million years ago, and later folded during reactivation of basement structures recording lateral displacements between Antarctica and Australia. Despite the relative youth of the mountains, the soils remain very poor, creating the species-rich heathland flora.[1][2]

Climate

As the only vertical obstacle to weather in any direction, the range tends to alter weather patterns around itself. Its upper slopes receive significantly more rainfall than surrounding areas. The branch of the Kalgan River that forms the southwestern border of the park is fed in large part from precipitation falling in the western half of the range.[3]

The annual rainfall on the plains around the park is quite low compared with the rainy Porongurups to the south, averaging only 575 millimetres (23 inches) on the southern side and as little as 400 millimetres (16 inches) in Borden on the northern side. Although no rain gauges have been placed on the high peaks, the highest rainfall is estimated to be about 1000 mm (39 in) near Coyanarup Peak and Bluff Knoll. This is supported by distinctly moist-climate pockets of vegetation in some high valleys. Most rain falls between May and August, with summer being very frequently completely dry around Borden for over a month and having typically very light showers in the south and on the peaks.[4]

Temperatures in the lowlands are generally warm. In the summer, average maxima typically are around 30 °C (86 °F) in Borden and about 27 °C (80 °F) in the southern plains. Summer minima range from about 16 °C (60 °F) in the south to 18 °C (64 °F) in Borden. In the winter, maximum temperatures typically are a very pleasant 16 °C (60 °F) and minima are about 8 °C (46.4 °F). On Bluff Knoll, winter temperatures range from maxima of about 11 °C (52 °F) to minima of 3 °C (37 °F). These are the lowest temperatures in Western Australia and consequently the Stirling Range occasionally receives snowfalls—the only place in Western Australia to regularly do so, though usually it is very light. Snow has been reported as early as 19 April 2019 and as late as 19 November 1992, but is mostly confined to the period from June to September.[5][6]

Flora and fauna

The range is one of the richest areas for flora in the world. The low-nutrient soils support five major vegetation communities: (1) shrubland and (2) mallee-heathland at higher altitudes; and (3) woodland, (4) wetland and (5) salt lake communities on lower slopes and plains.[7] Ninety families, 384 genera, and over 1500 plant species occur there, 87 of which are found nowhere else. This represents more than a third of the known flora of the southwest, and includes more species of wildflowers than in the entire British Isles.[8]

The range has been identified by BirdLife International as an Important Bird Area (IBA) because it supports populations of endangered short-billed black cockatoos and western whipbirds, and is visited by endangered long-billed black-cockatoos. Significant biome-restricted or range-restricted bird species found in the range include red-capped and regent parrots, western rosellas, rufous treecreepers, red-winged and blue-breasted fairywrens, purple-gaped honeyeaters, western spinebills, western thornbills, western yellow and white-breasted robins, and red-eared firetails.[9]

The range is an important site for endemic mygalomorph spiders, and for land snails. Some 20 species of native mammals, including the reintroduced numbat, have been recorded.[7]

History

 
Heath habitat looking west from lookout in approx centre of ranges

The plains in the Stirling Range region were the hunting grounds for small groups of Indigenous Australians for thousands of years before European settlement. At least two tribes frequented the area: the Qaaniyan people in the west, and the Koreng people in the east. The Stirling Range played an important role in their culture, appearing in a number of Dreamtime stories.[10]

The first recorded sighting of the Stirling Range by a European explorer was by Matthew Flinders on 5 January 1802. While sailing along the south coast of Australia, just east of King George Sound, he noted at a distance of eight leagues (39 km or 24 mi) inland a chain of rugged mountains, the easternmost of which he named Mount Rugged (now called Bluff Knoll).[11]

An army garrison was established at King George Sound in 1826, and the following year the commanding officer, Major Edmund Lockyer, explored the land north of the Sound. On 11 February 1827, he observed mountains in the distance running east and west about 64 kilometres (40 mi).[12]

Alexander Collie explored to the north of the Sound in 1831. On 29 April, he described the Stirling Range and recorded names for the main peaks.[13] The following year, Robert Dale led an expedition to the Range. On 24 January 1832, he made the first recorded ascent of a peak in the Stirling Range, scaling Toolbrunup.[14] Late in 1835, Governor James Stirling and John Septimus Roe led an expedition from Albany to Perth. They first saw the Stirling Range on 3 November, and on travelling closer to them the following day, Roe gave them their name.[15] Because Stirling personally led the Pinjarra massacre and later threatened the Noongar people with genocide, there are some calls to rename the Stirling Range.[16]

Early exploitation of the Stirling Range included cutting of sandalwood and kangaroo hunting. The Range was never formally taken up for grazing, probably because of the many poison bushes in the area. However, squatters ran sheep to the south of the Range in the 1850s, and in the 1860s a selection was taken up at the base of Mount Trio.

The area that is now the Stirling Range National Park was temporarily reserved in April 1908, and formally gazetted as Western Australia's third national park in June 1913.[17]

 
Stirling Range from Mount Barker Rotary Lookout

Attractions and activities

Notable features include Toolbrunup, Bluff Knoll (the tallest peak for a thousand kilometres or more in any direction and most popular tourist attraction), and a silhouette called The Sleeping Princess which is visible from the Porongurup Range. Popular recreational activities include bushwalking, abseiling and gliding. Camping is not permitted within the park boundaries.

Major peaks

 
Bluff Knoll, as seen from near the corner of Chester Pass Road and Bluff Knoll access road

References

  1. ^ Rasmussen, Birger; Bengtson, Stefan; Fletcher, Ian R.; McNaughton, Neal J. (10 May 2002). "Discoidal Impressions and Trace-Like Fossils More Than 1200 Million Years Old" (PDF). Science. 296 (5570): 1112–1115. Bibcode:2002Sci...296.1112R. doi:10.1126/science.1070166. PMID 12004128. S2CID 27209539. Retrieved 29 November 2013.
  2. ^ Geoscience Australia (10 May 2002). "Stirling Range Formation" (pdf). Australian Stratigraphic Names Database. Commonwealth of Australia. Retrieved 29 November 2013.
  3. ^ "Sterling Range, Western Australia". The Earth Observatory. EOS Project Science Office at NASA Goddard Space Flight Center. 26 June 2005. Retrieved 20 April 2019.
  4. ^ Herford, Ian (1999). "Stirling Range and Porongurup National Parks Management Plan 1999-2009" (PDF). Perth, Western Australia: Department of Conservation and Land Management. p. 14. Retrieved 30 June 2014.
  5. ^ Graham Barker. "Snow in WA". fear-god.net. Retrieved 20 September 2009.
  6. ^ Kaur, Herlyn. . Weatherzone. Archived from the original on 20 April 2019. Retrieved 20 April 2019.
  7. ^ a b BirdLife International. (2011). Important Bird Areas factsheet: Stirling Range. Downloaded from . Archived from the original on 28 November 2001. Retrieved 17 December 2012. on 2011-10-25.
  8. ^ Department of Environment and Conservation, 2008, Park Finder: Stirling Ranges National Park.
  9. ^ . Birdata. Birds Australia. Archived from the original on 6 July 2011. Retrieved 24 October 2011.
  10. ^ "About The Wagyl Kaip and Southern Noongar Region". South West Aboriginal Land and Sea Council. 28 June 2012. Retrieved 24 September 2015.
  11. ^ Flinders, Matthew (20 May 1814). "4". A voyage to Terra Australis: undertaken for the purpose of completing the discovery of that vast country, and prosecuted in the years 1801, 1802 and 1803. Vol. 1. London: G. & W. Nicol. p. 75. Retrieved 20 April 2019.
  12. ^ Murs (21 June 1947). "History in Names – The Stirling Range". The West Australian. p. 5. Retrieved 29 November 2013.
  13. ^ Collie, Alexander (1833), "Account of an Excursion to the North of King George's Sound, between the 26th of April, and the 4th of May, 1831, by Al. Collie, Surgeon", in Cross, Joseph (ed.), Journals of Several Expeditions Made in Western Australia During the Years 1829, 1830, 1831 and 1832: Under the Sanction of the Governor, Sir James Stirling, London: J. Cross, pp. 132–154, ISBN 9780855641870, retrieved 20 April 2019
  14. ^ Dale, Robert (1833), "Mr Dale's Journal of an Expedition from King George's Sound to the Koikyennuruff Range of Mountains", in Cross, Joseph (ed.), Journals of Several Expeditions Made in Western Australia During the Years 1829, 1830, 1831 and 1832: Under the Sanction of the Governor, Sir James Stirling, London: J. Cross, pp. 161–167, ISBN 9780855641870, retrieved 20 April 2019
  15. ^ Jackson, J.L. Burton (1982). Not an idle man : a biography of John Septimus Roe : Western Australia's first surveyor-general, 1797-1878. West Swan, Western Australia: M.B. Roe. p. 109. ISBN 978-0959297508.
  16. ^ Dobson, John; Logan, Tyne (9 June 2020). "Stirling Range named after governor involved in 1834 massacre should be renamed, say WA Greens". ABC News. Australian Broadcasting Corporation. Retrieved 5 July 2021.
  17. ^ "Stirling Ranges". Albany Gateway. Retrieved 20 September 2009.

Further reading

  • Carolyn Thomson, Graham Hall and Gordon Friend (eds) (1993). Mountains of Mystery: A Natural History of the Stirling Range. Department of Conservation and Land Management. Perth, Western Australia. ISBN 0-7309-5460-9.
  • Erickson, Rica (1951) Springtime in the Stirlings - The West Australian 17 November 1951 p. 11 - re climbing Mondurup at the west end of the Range.
  • Morphet, A.T. (1996) Mountain Walks in the Stirling Range. Torridon Publications, Capel, Western Australia ISBN 0-646-29137-8 (for the set of 2).
  • Olver, Rob and Olver, Stuart; Dawn Till Dusk In The Stirling and Porongurup Ranges, published 1998 by Benchmark Publications, Melbourne. ISBN 1-876268-10-7.

January 01, 1970
stirling, range, koikyennuruff, range, mountains, hills, great, southern, region, western, australia, kilometres, south, east, perth, over, kilometres, wide, from, west, east, stretching, from, highway, between, mount, barker, cranbrook, eastward, past, gnowan. The Stirling Range or Koikyennuruff is a range of mountains and hills in the Great Southern region of Western Australia 337 kilometres 209 mi south east of Perth It is over 60 kilometres 37 mi wide from west to east stretching from the highway between Mount Barker and Cranbrook eastward past Gnowangerup The Stirling Range is protected by the Stirling Range National Park which was gazetted in 1913 and has an area of 1 159 km2 447 sq mi Stirling Range Koikyennuruff Satellite image of the park The sharp boundaries on all sides of the park show where agriculture immediately gives way to protected land Highest pointPeakBluff KnollElevation1 099 m 3 606 ft GeographyStirling Range Koikyennuruff CountryAustraliaStateWestern AustraliaRange coordinates34 24 S 118 09 E 34 400 S 118 150 E 34 400 118 150 Contents 1 Environment 1 1 Geology 1 2 Climate 1 3 Flora and fauna 2 History 3 Attractions and activities 3 1 Major peaks 4 References 5 Further readingEnvironmentGeology The mountains are formed of metamorphic rock derived from quartz sandstones and shales deposited during the Paleoproterozoic Era between 2 016 and 1 215 million years ago based on U Th Pb isotope geochronology of monazite crystals The sediments were subsequently metamorphosed 1 215 million years ago and later folded during reactivation of basement structures recording lateral displacements between Antarctica and Australia Despite the relative youth of the mountains the soils remain very poor creating the species rich heathland flora 1 2 Climate As the only vertical obstacle to weather in any direction the range tends to alter weather patterns around itself Its upper slopes receive significantly more rainfall than surrounding areas The branch of the Kalgan River that forms the southwestern border of the park is fed in large part from precipitation falling in the western half of the range 3 The annual rainfall on the plains around the park is quite low compared with the rainy Porongurups to the south averaging only 575 millimetres 23 inches on the southern side and as little as 400 millimetres 16 inches in Borden on the northern side Although no rain gauges have been placed on the high peaks the highest rainfall is estimated to be about 1000 mm 39 in near Coyanarup Peak and Bluff Knoll This is supported by distinctly moist climate pockets of vegetation in some high valleys Most rain falls between May and August with summer being very frequently completely dry around Borden for over a month and having typically very light showers in the south and on the peaks 4 Temperatures in the lowlands are generally warm In the summer average maxima typically are around 30 C 86 F in Borden and about 27 C 80 F in the southern plains Summer minima range from about 16 C 60 F in the south to 18 C 64 F in Borden In the winter maximum temperatures typically are a very pleasant 16 C 60 F and minima are about 8 C 46 4 F On Bluff Knoll winter temperatures range from maxima of about 11 C 52 F to minima of 3 C 37 F These are the lowest temperatures in Western Australia and consequently the Stirling Range occasionally receives snowfalls the only place in Western Australia to regularly do so though usually it is very light Snow has been reported as early as 19 April 2019 and as late as 19 November 1992 but is mostly confined to the period from June to September 5 6 Flora and fauna The range is one of the richest areas for flora in the world The low nutrient soils support five major vegetation communities 1 shrubland and 2 mallee heathland at higher altitudes and 3 woodland 4 wetland and 5 salt lake communities on lower slopes and plains 7 Ninety families 384 genera and over 1500 plant species occur there 87 of which are found nowhere else This represents more than a third of the known flora of the southwest and includes more species of wildflowers than in the entire British Isles 8 The range has been identified by BirdLife International as an Important Bird Area IBA because it supports populations of endangered short billed black cockatoos and western whipbirds and is visited by endangered long billed black cockatoos Significant biome restricted or range restricted bird species found in the range include red capped and regent parrots western rosellas rufous treecreepers red winged and blue breasted fairywrens purple gaped honeyeaters western spinebills western thornbills western yellow and white breasted robins and red eared firetails 9 The range is an important site for endemic mygalomorph spiders and for land snails Some 20 species of native mammals including the reintroduced numbat have been recorded 7 History nbsp Heath habitat looking west from lookout in approx centre of ranges The plains in the Stirling Range region were the hunting grounds for small groups of Indigenous Australians for thousands of years before European settlement At least two tribes frequented the area the Qaaniyan people in the west and the Koreng people in the east The Stirling Range played an important role in their culture appearing in a number of Dreamtime stories 10 The first recorded sighting of the Stirling Range by a European explorer was by Matthew Flinders on 5 January 1802 While sailing along the south coast of Australia just east of King George Sound he noted at a distance of eight leagues 39 km or 24 mi inland a chain of rugged mountains the easternmost of which he named Mount Rugged now called Bluff Knoll 11 An army garrison was established at King George Sound in 1826 and the following year the commanding officer Major Edmund Lockyer explored the land north of the Sound On 11 February 1827 he observed mountains in the distance running east and west about 64 kilometres 40 mi 12 Alexander Collie explored to the north of the Sound in 1831 On 29 April he described the Stirling Range and recorded names for the main peaks 13 The following year Robert Dale led an expedition to the Range On 24 January 1832 he made the first recorded ascent of a peak in the Stirling Range scaling Toolbrunup 14 Late in 1835 Governor James Stirling and John Septimus Roe led an expedition from Albany to Perth They first saw the Stirling Range on 3 November and on travelling closer to them the following day Roe gave them their name 15 Because Stirling personally led the Pinjarra massacre and later threatened the Noongar people with genocide there are some calls to rename the Stirling Range 16 Early exploitation of the Stirling Range included cutting of sandalwood and kangaroo hunting The Range was never formally taken up for grazing probably because of the many poison bushes in the area However squatters ran sheep to the south of the Range in the 1850s and in the 1860s a selection was taken up at the base of Mount Trio The area that is now the Stirling Range National Park was temporarily reserved in April 1908 and formally gazetted as Western Australia s third national park in June 1913 17 nbsp Stirling Range from Mount Barker Rotary LookoutAttractions and activitiesNotable features include Toolbrunup Bluff Knoll the tallest peak for a thousand kilometres or more in any direction and most popular tourist attraction and a silhouette called The Sleeping Princess which is visible from the Porongurup Range Popular recreational activities include bushwalking abseiling and gliding Camping is not permitted within the park boundaries Major peaks nbsp Bluff Knoll as seen from near the corner of Chester Pass Road and Bluff Knoll access road Bluff Knoll 34 22 S 118 15 E 34 367 S 118 250 E 34 367 118 250 1 095 m 3 593 ft Mount Hassell 34 22 S 118 04 E 34 367 S 118 067 E 34 367 118 067 847 m 2 779 ft Mount Magog 34 23 S 117 56 E 34 383 S 117 933 E 34 383 117 933 856 m 2 808 ft Mount Trio 34 20 S 118 06 E 34 333 S 118 100 E 34 333 118 100 856 m 2 808 ft Talyuberlup Peak 34 24 S 117 57 E 34 400 S 117 950 E 34 400 117 950 783 m 2 569 ft Toolbrunup 34 23 S 118 02 E 34 383 S 118 033 E 34 383 118 033 1 052 m 3 451 ft References Rasmussen Birger Bengtson Stefan Fletcher Ian R McNaughton Neal J 10 May 2002 Discoidal Impressions and Trace Like Fossils More Than 1200 Million Years Old PDF Science 296 5570 1112 1115 Bibcode 2002Sci 296 1112R doi 10 1126 science 1070166 PMID 12004128 S2CID 27209539 Retrieved 29 November 2013 Geoscience Australia 10 May 2002 Stirling Range Formation pdf Australian Stratigraphic Names Database Commonwealth of Australia Retrieved 29 November 2013 Sterling Range Western Australia The Earth Observatory EOS Project Science Office at NASA Goddard Space Flight Center 26 June 2005 Retrieved 20 April 2019 Herford Ian 1999 Stirling Range and Porongurup National Parks Management Plan 1999 2009 PDF Perth Western Australia Department of Conservation and Land Management p 14 Retrieved 30 June 2014 Graham Barker Snow in WA fear god net Retrieved 20 September 2009 Kaur Herlyn Snow falls in WA in April for first time in 49 years as Good Friday cold blast turns Bluff Knoll white Weatherzone Archived from the original on 20 April 2019 Retrieved 20 April 2019 a b BirdLife International 2011 Important Bird Areas factsheet Stirling Range Downloaded from BirdLife International Archived from the original on 28 November 2001 Retrieved 17 December 2012 on 2011 10 25 Department of Environment and Conservation 2008 Park Finder Stirling Ranges National Park IBA Stirling Range Birdata Birds Australia Archived from the original on 6 July 2011 Retrieved 24 October 2011 About The Wagyl Kaip and Southern Noongar Region South West Aboriginal Land and Sea Council 28 June 2012 Retrieved 24 September 2015 Flinders Matthew 20 May 1814 4 A voyage to Terra Australis undertaken for the purpose of completing the discovery of that vast country and prosecuted in the years 1801 1802 and 1803 Vol 1 London G amp W Nicol p 75 Retrieved 20 April 2019 Murs 21 June 1947 History in Names The Stirling Range The West Australian p 5 Retrieved 29 November 2013 Collie Alexander 1833 Account of an Excursion to the North of King George s Sound between the 26th of April and the 4th of May 1831 by Al Collie Surgeon in Cross Joseph ed Journals of Several Expeditions Made in Western Australia During the Years 1829 1830 1831 and 1832 Under the Sanction of the Governor Sir James Stirling London J Cross pp 132 154 ISBN 9780855641870 retrieved 20 April 2019 Dale Robert 1833 Mr Dale s Journal of an Expedition from King George s Sound to the Koikyennuruff Range of Mountains in Cross Joseph ed Journals of Several Expeditions Made in Western Australia During the Years 1829 1830 1831 and 1832 Under the Sanction of the Governor Sir James Stirling London J Cross pp 161 167 ISBN 9780855641870 retrieved 20 April 2019 Jackson J L Burton 1982 Not an idle man a biography of John Septimus Roe Western Australia s first surveyor general 1797 1878 West Swan Western Australia M B Roe p 109 ISBN 978 0959297508 Dobson John Logan Tyne 9 June 2020 Stirling Range named after governor involved in 1834 massacre should be renamed say WA Greens ABC News Australian Broadcasting Corporation Retrieved 5 July 2021 Stirling Ranges Albany Gateway Retrieved 20 September 2009 Further readingCarolyn Thomson Graham Hall and Gordon Friend eds 1993 Mountains of Mystery A Natural History of the Stirling Range Department of Conservation and Land Management Perth Western Australia ISBN 0 7309 5460 9 Erickson Rica 1951 Springtime in the Stirlings The West Australian 17 November 1951 p 11 re climbing Mondurup at the west end of the Range Morphet A T 1996 Mountain Walks in the Stirling Range Torridon Publications Capel Western Australia ISBN 0 646 29137 8 for the set of 2 Olver Rob and Olver Stuart Dawn Till Dusk In The Stirling and Porongurup Ranges published 1998 by Benchmark Publications Melbourne ISBN 1 876268 10 7 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Stirling Range amp oldid 1215523553, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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