Wikipedia
Sport climbing at the 2024 Summer Olympics – Qualification
This section tabulates the heads of qualification in a form suitable to be filled in as events progress. The full qualification rules[1] for sport climbing published by IFSC contain intricate conditions too lengthy for inclusion in Wikipedia. |
In qualifying for the 2024 Summer Olympics, a total of 68 climbers, with an equal distribution between men and women, will compete across two separate competition climbing disciplines at these Games for the first time, namely: a unique competition bouldering-and-competition lead climbing combined event, and a separate competition speed climbing event.
Qualification summary edit
| Nation | Boulder and Lead | Speed | Total | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Men | Women | Men | Women | ||
| Australia | 1 | 1 | 2 | ||
| Austria | 1 | 1 | 2 | ||
| China | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 | |
| France | 1 | 1 | 2 | ||
| Great Britain | 1 | 1 | |||
| Indonesia | 1 | 1 | 2 | ||
| Italy | 1 | 1 | |||
| Japan | 2 | 1 | 3 | ||
| New Zealand | 1 | 1 | 2 | ||
| Poland | 1 | 1 | |||
| Slovenia | 1 | 1 | |||
| South Africa | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| United States | 2 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 6 |
| Total: 13 NOCs | 8 | 8 | 7 | 7 | 30 |
Boulder and lead combined edit
A total of 40 climbers (twenty per gender) will compete in the men's and women's competition bouldering-and-competition lead climbing combined event for Paris 2024. Each NOC could only send a maximum of four climbers with an equal split between men and women. Quota places are allocated to the athletes by name. These qualification spots will be awarded as follows:[2][3][4]
- World Championships – The three highest-ranked climbers in each event will obtain a quota place, respecting a two-member limit for their NOC.
- Continental Qualification Events – The highest-ranked eligible male and female climber at each of the five continental qualifying tournaments (Africa, Asia, Europe, the Americas, and Oceania) will obtain a quota place, respecting a two-member limit for his or her NOC.
- Olympic Qualifier Series – The top ten male and female climbers after a series of two events in 2024 will obtain a quota place, respecting a two-member limit for their NOC. The list of athletes who will compete for these places has been published by the IFSC.
- Host country – As the host country, France reserves one quota place each for the men's and women's boulder-and-lead combined events. If one or more French sport climbers qualify regularly and directly through the world championships or their respective continental meet, their slots will be reallocated to the next highest-ranked eligible sport climbers from the Olympic Qualifier Series.[3][2]
- Universality places – Two invitational places will be entitled to eligible NOCs interested to have their sport climbers compete in Paris 2024 as granted by the Universality principle.
- Reallocation – Unused quota spots will be reallocated.
Timeline edit
| Event | Date | Venue |
|---|---|---|
| 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships | August 1–12, 2023 | Bern[2] |
| 2023 Pan American Games | October 21–24, 2023 | Santiago[2] |
| 2023 European Boulder & Lead Climbing Olympic Qualifier | October 26–29, 2023 | Laval[2] |
| 2023 Asian Sport Climbing Olympic Qualifier | November 9–12, 2023 | Jakarta[2] |
| 2023 Oceania Sport Climbing Olympic Qualifier | November 24–26, 2023 | Melbourne |
| 2023 African Sport Climbing Olympic Qualifier | December 7–9, 2023 | Pretoria |
| 2024 Olympic Qualifier Series | May 16–19, 2024 June 20–23, 2024 | Shanghai Budapest[5] |
Qualification table edit
| Event | Male | Female | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Places | Qualified sport climber | Places | Qualified sport climber | |
| Host nation | 1 | TBA (FRA) | 0[a] | — |
| 2023 World Championships | 3 | Jakob Schubert (AUT) Colin Duffy (USA) Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) | 3 | Janja Garnbret (SLO) Jessica Pilz (AUT) Ai Mori (JPN) |
| 2023 Pan American Games | 1 | Jesse Grupper (USA) | 1 | Natalia Grossman (USA) |
| 2023 European Qualifier | 1 | Toby Roberts (GBR) | 1 | Oriane Bertone (FRA) |
| 2023 Asian Qualifier | 1 | Sorato Anraku (JPN) | 1 | Zhang Yuetong (CHN) |
| 2023 Oceania Qualifier | 1 | Campbell Harrison (AUS) | 1 | Oceana Mackenzie (AUS) |
| 2023 African Qualifier | 1 | Mel Janse van Rensburg (RSA) | 1 | Lauren Mukheibir (RSA) |
| Olympic Qualifying Series | 10 | 10 | ||
| Universality places | 0 | — | 1 | |
| Reallocation[a] | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 20 | 20 | ||
Speed edit
A total of 28 climbers (fourteen per gender) will compete in the inaugural men's and women's competition speed climbing events, respectively, for Paris 2024. Each NOC could only send a maximum of four climbers with an equal split between men and women. Quota places are allocated to the athletes by name. These qualification spots will be awarded as follows:[6][4][7]
- World Championships – The two highest-ranked climbers (a champion and a runner-up) in each event will obtain a quota place, respecting a two-member limit for their NOC.
- Continental Qualification Events – The highest-ranked eligible male and female climber at each of the five continental qualifying tournaments (Africa, Asia, Europe, the Americas, and Oceania) will obtain a quota place, respecting a two-member limit for his or her NOC.
- Olympic Qualifier Series – The top five male and female climbers after a four-month-long invitational series of events will obtain a quota place, respecting a two-member limit for their NOC.
- Host country – As the host country, France reserves one quota place each for the men's and women's boulder-and-lead combined events. If one or more French sport climbers qualify regularly and directly through the world championships or their respective continental meet, their slots will be reallocated to the next highest-ranked eligible sport climbers from the Olympic Qualifier Series.[6][7]
- Universality places – Two invitational places will be entitled to eligible NOCs interested to have their sport climbers compete in Paris 2024 as granted by the Universality principle.
- Reallocation – Unused quota spots will be reallocated.
Timeline edit
| Event | Date | Venue |
|---|---|---|
| 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships | August 1–12, 2023 | Bern[7] |
| 2023 European Speed Climbing Olympic Qualifier | September 15, 2023 | Rome[7] |
| 2023 Pan American Games | October 21–24, 2023 | Cerrillos[7] |
| 2023 Asian Sport Climbing Olympic Qualifier | November 9-12, 2023 | Jakarta[7] |
| 2023 Oceania Sport Climbing Olympic Qualifier | November 24–26, 2023 | Melbourne |
| 2023 African Sport Climbing Olympic Qualifier | December 7–9, 2023 | Pretoria |
| Olympic Qualifier Series | May 16–19, 2024 June 20–23, 2024 | Shanghai Budapest[8] |
Qualification table edit
| Event | Male | Female | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Places | Qualified sport climber | Places | Qualified sport climber | |
| Host nation | 0[a] | — | 1 | TBA (FRA) |
| 2023 World Championships | 2 | Matteo Zurloni (ITA) Long Jinbao (CHN) | 2 | Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi (INA) Emma Hunt (USA) |
| 2023 European Qualifier | 1 | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | 1 | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) |
| 2023 Pan American Games | 1 | Samuel Watson (USA) | 1 | Piper Kelly (USA) |
| 2023 Asian Qualifier | 1 | Rahmad Adi Mulyono (INA) | 1 | Deng Lijuan (CHN) |
| 2023 Oceania Qualifier | 1 | Julian David (NZL) | 1 | Sarah Tetzlaff (NZL) |
| 2023 African Qualifier | 1 | Joshua Bruyns (RSA) | 1 | Aniya Holder (RSA) |
| Olympic Qualifying Series | 5 | 5 | ||
| Universality places | 0 | — | 0 | — |
| Realocation[a] | 2 | 1 | ||
| Total | 14 | 14 | ||
References edit
- ^ "Olympic Games Paris 2024". IFSC. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
- ^ a b c d e f "Qualification System – Games of the XXXIII Olympiad – Sport Climbing Boulder & Lead" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing. International Olympic Committee. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
- ^ a b Martin, Marta (13 December 2022). "How to qualify for sport climbing (boulder and lead) at Paris 2024. The Olympics qualification system explained". International Olympic Committee. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
- ^ a b Berry, Natalie (17 May 2022). "Paris 2024 Olympic Sport Climbing Qualification System Announced". UKC. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
- ^ "The International Olympic Committee unveils hosts and dates for Olympic Qualifier Series for BMX freestyle, breaking, skateboarding and sport climbing". International Olympic Committee. 12 October 2023. Retrieved 13 October 2023.
- ^ a b Martin, Marta (13 December 2022). "How to qualify for sport climbing (speed) at Paris 2024. The Olympics qualification system explained". International Olympic Committee. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
- ^ a b c d e f "Qualification System – Games of the XXXIII Olympiad – Sport Climbing Speed" (PDF). International Federation of Sport Climbing. International Olympic Committee. Retrieved 30 December 2022.
- ^ "The International Olympic Committee unveils hosts and dates for Olympic Qualifier Series for BMX freestyle, breaking, skateboarding and sport climbing". International Olympic Committee. 12 October 2023. Retrieved 13 October 2023.