"Fumer" redirects here. For the bone of the lower limb, see Femur.
A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions, sometimes referred to affectionately as a nose (French: nez) due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions. The perfumer is effectively an artist[1] who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with compositions. At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each one alone or in combination with others. They must also know how each reveals itself over time. The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists, who compose smells and flavourants for commercial food products.
A mockup of a perfume organ (lacks a weighing scale). The organ is traditionally where a perfumer works on the composition of various perfumes. However, samples are now weighed and blended by technicians in larger flavour and fragrance companies.
Most past perfumers did not undergo professional training in the art, and many learned their craft as apprentices under another perfumer in their employment as technicians (in charge of blending formulas) or chemists. These people were usually given temporary jobs in the industry. A direct entrance into the profession is rare, and those who do typically enter it through family contacts. Such apprenticeships last around three years.
Until recently, professional schools open to the public did not exist. In 1970 ISIPCA became the first school in perfumery. Candidates must pass a demanding entrance examination, and must have taken university-level courses in organic chemistry.
Since 1998 PerfumersWorld's school[2] has offered formal and informal training through university courses at King Mongkut's University of Technology Thonburi Biotechnology faculty, at Chulalongkorn University Pharmacy faculty and through on-line courses and private workshops in the United States, UK, Dubai, Hong Kong, Germany, New Zealand, and Thailand.
More recently, in 2002, another school was born, the Grasse Institute of Perfumery (G.I.P). Similarly here, candidates must have a foundation in chemistry or pharmacy to be accepted as students.
Most perfumers are employed by large fragrance corporations including Mane, Robertet, Firmenich, IFF, Givaudan, Takasago, and Symrise. Some work exclusively for a perfume house or in their own companies, but these are not as common.
The perfumer typically begins a project with a brief by their employer or a customer, typically a fashion house or other large corporation. This will contain the specifications for the desired perfume, and will describe in often poetic or abstract terms what it should smell like or what feelings it should evoke, along with a maximum price per litre of the perfume oil concentrate. This allowance, along with the intended application of the perfume, will determine what aromatic ingredients will be used in the composition.
The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple mixtures and will attempt to capture the desired feelings specified in the brief. After presenting the perfume mixtures to the customers, the perfumer may "win" the brief with their approval. They proceed to work with the customer, often with the direction provided by a panel or artistic director, which guides and edits the modifications on the composition of the perfume. This process typically spans several months to several years, going through many iterations, and may involve cultural and public surveys to tailor a perfume to a particular market. The composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance (shampoos, make-up, detergents, car interiors, etc.) or marketed directly to the public as a fine fragrance.
Alternatively, the perfumer may simply be inspired to create a perfume and produce something that later becomes marketable or wins a brief. This is more common in smaller or independent perfume houses.[3]
^Glen O. Brechbill. (PDF). Perfumerbook.com. Archived from the original (PDF) on 2011-06-27. Retrieved 2017-06-24.
^PerfumersWorld. "Perfumery School | PerfumersWorld". Perfumersworld.com. Retrieved 2016-12-04.
^Burr, Chandler (2003). The Emperor of Scent: A Story of Perfume, Obsession, and the Last Mystery of the Senses. New York: Random House. ISBN978-0-375-50797-7.
External linksEdit
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Perfume.
The British Society of Perfumers The British Society of Perfumers
Zooming into Practices of Perfumers Scent Culture Institute
October 15, 2023
perfumer, fumer, redirects, here, bone, lower, limb, femur, this, article, needs, additional, citations, verification, please, help, improve, this, article, adding, citations, reliable, sources, unsourced, material, challenged, removed, find, sources, news, ne. Fumer redirects here For the bone of the lower limb see Femur This article needs additional citations for verification Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources Unsourced material may be challenged and removed Find sources Perfumer news newspapers books scholar JSTOR August 2020 Learn how and when to remove this template message A perfumer is an expert on creating perfume compositions sometimes referred to affectionately as a nose French nez due to their fine sense of smell and skill in producing olfactory compositions The perfumer is effectively an artist 1 who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with compositions At the most rudimentary level a perfumer must have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells and be able to distinguish each one alone or in combination with others They must also know how each reveals itself over time The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists who compose smells and flavourants for commercial food products A mockup of a perfume organ lacks a weighing scale The organ is traditionally where a perfumer works on the composition of various perfumes However samples are now weighed and blended by technicians in larger flavour and fragrance companies Contents 1 Training 2 Employment 3 List of notable perfumers 4 See also 5 References 6 External linksTraining EditMost past perfumers did not undergo professional training in the art and many learned their craft as apprentices under another perfumer in their employment as technicians in charge of blending formulas or chemists These people were usually given temporary jobs in the industry A direct entrance into the profession is rare and those who do typically enter it through family contacts Such apprenticeships last around three years Until recently professional schools open to the public did not exist In 1970 ISIPCA became the first school in perfumery Candidates must pass a demanding entrance examination and must have taken university level courses in organic chemistry Since 1998 PerfumersWorld s school 2 has offered formal and informal training through university courses at King Mongkut s University of Technology Thonburi Biotechnology faculty at Chulalongkorn University Pharmacy faculty and through on line courses and private workshops in the United States UK Dubai Hong Kong Germany New Zealand and Thailand More recently in 2002 another school was born the Grasse Institute of Perfumery G I P Similarly here candidates must have a foundation in chemistry or pharmacy to be accepted as students Givaudan International Flavors and Fragrances IFF and Symrise operate their own perfumery schools but students must be employees and recommended by their managers The University of Plymouth UK offers a BA Bachelor of Arts course in Business amp Perfumery Employment EditMost perfumers are employed by large fragrance corporations including Mane Robertet Firmenich IFF Givaudan Takasago and Symrise Some work exclusively for a perfume house or in their own companies but these are not as common The perfumer typically begins a project with a brief by their employer or a customer typically a fashion house or other large corporation This will contain the specifications for the desired perfume and will describe in often poetic or abstract terms what it should smell like or what feelings it should evoke along with a maximum price per litre of the perfume oil concentrate This allowance along with the intended application of the perfume will determine what aromatic ingredients will be used in the composition The perfumer will then go through the process of blending multiple mixtures and will attempt to capture the desired feelings specified in the brief After presenting the perfume mixtures to the customers the perfumer may win the brief with their approval They proceed to work with the customer often with the direction provided by a panel or artistic director which guides and edits the modifications on the composition of the perfume This process typically spans several months to several years going through many iterations and may involve cultural and public surveys to tailor a perfume to a particular market The composition will then be either used to enhance another product as a functional fragrance shampoos make up detergents car interiors etc or marketed directly to the public as a fine fragrance Alternatively the perfumer may simply be inspired to create a perfume and produce something that later becomes marketable or wins a brief This is more common in smaller or independent perfume houses 3 List of notable perfumers EditHenri Almeras Nicolas de Barry Ernest Beaux Calice Becker Arcadi Boix Jean Carles Jacques Cavallier Germaine Cellier Francois Coty Francois Demachy Roja Dove Bertrand Duchaufour Jean Claude Ellena Andre Fraysse Olivia Giacobetti Adolph Goetting Sophia Grojsman Jean Kerleo Karyn Khoury Francis Kurkdjian Christophe Laudamiel Norina Matchabelli Annick Menardo David H McConnell Alberto Morillas Patricia de Nicolai Jacques Polge Henri Robert Dominique Ropion Maurice Roucel Christopher Sheldrake Olivier Cresp Thierry WasserSee also EditAromachologist ISIPCA Universite Europeenne des Senteurs amp SaveursReferences Edit Glen O Brechbill The Perfumers An Index to the Aromatic Artists PDF Perfumerbook com Archived from the original PDF on 2011 06 27 Retrieved 2017 06 24 PerfumersWorld Perfumery School PerfumersWorld Perfumersworld com Retrieved 2016 12 04 Burr Chandler 2003 The Emperor of Scent A Story of Perfume Obsession and the Last Mystery of the Senses New York Random House ISBN 978 0 375 50797 7 External links Edit nbsp Wikimedia Commons has media related to Perfume The British Society of Perfumers The British Society of Perfumers Zooming into Practices of Perfumers Scent Culture Institute Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Perfumer amp oldid 1168240829, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
