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Oxford University Mountaineering Club

The Oxford University Mountaineering Club (OUMC) was founded in 1909 by Arnold Lunn, then a Balliol undergraduate; he did not earn a degree.[1][2]

History edit

The club has taken a significant part in the development of mountaineering in the United Kingdom, and many British climbers have been members of the club.[2] Andrew Irvine was at Merton College and was a member of the OUMC at the time of his fatal attempt to climb Everest with George Mallory. Tom Bourdillon (whose father was one of the club's founders), Charles Evans and Michael Westmacott, all former members of the OUMC,[3] were members of the successful 1953 British Expedition to Everest. Evans was Deputy Leader to John Hunt on that expedition, Bourdillon was responsible for the oxygen apparatus, and Westmacott was in charge of keeping the dangerous passage through the Khumbu Icefall open.[4] Bourdillon and Evans made the first attempt on the summit, on 26 May 1953, three days before the successful climb by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. They reached the South Summit[4] (at 8750 m then the highest summit to have been climbed), but had to turn back due to severe exhaustion. Charles Evans was later the Leader of the first successful expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1955.[4]

Stephen Venables was the first British climber to climb Everest without using an oxygen cylinder; he climbed to the South Col via the Kangshung Face, creating a new route, and then went solo to the summit, as his colleagues were exhausted.[4]

The club has sent exploratory mountaineering expeditions to mountain ranges all over the world. It claims first ascents of peaks in such places as Greenland, the Himalayas, the Karakoram, Kishtwar, Peru, Spitsbergen, and Wakhan.[2][4]

Governance edit

The club is operated by committee – the executive (president, secretary, treasurer) is always made up from Oxford University Students but the wider committee roles are open to any members.

Functions and traditions edit

The club usually meets on a Wednesday during Oxford term time at the Gardeners Arms pub. This is where members can sign up to go on weekend 'meets'. Meets are organised climbing trips facilitated by the hire of a minibus and campsite. The club meets typically include overnight trips to Dartmoor, the Lake District and Cornwall and single day trips to the Wye Valley and Peak District. Alongside outdoor climbing trips the club organises:

  • a roped up pub crawl in the first weeks of term – where all attendees must negotiate the streets of Oxford whilst being tied to one another.
  • a ceilidh.
  • a Christmas dinner.

Notable members edit

References edit

  1. ^ Denning, Andrew (2014). Skiing Into Modernity: A Cultural and Environmental History. Univ of California Press. p. 7. ISBN 978-0-520-28427-2.
  2. ^ a b c Ross, Andrew (2009). "100 Years of The OUMC A Brief and Personal History" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Retrieved 23 February 2017.
  3. ^ Thompson, Simon (21 July 2011). Unjustifiable Risk?: The Story of British Climbing. Cicerone Press. p. 237. ISBN 978-1852846275.
  4. ^ a b c d e "A Brief History of OUMC". OUMC. Retrieved 22 February 2017.
  5. ^ Isserman, Maurice; Weaver, Stewart; Molenaar, Dee (2010). Fallen Giants: A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes. Yale University Press. p. 278. ISBN 978-0-300-16420-6.

External links edit

  • Club website

Other notable mountaineering clubs edit

oxford, university, mountaineering, club, oumc, founded, 1909, arnold, lunn, then, balliol, undergraduate, earn, degree, contents, history, governance, functions, traditions, notable, members, references, external, links, other, notable, mountaineering, clubsh. The Oxford University Mountaineering Club OUMC was founded in 1909 by Arnold Lunn then a Balliol undergraduate he did not earn a degree 1 2 Contents 1 History 2 Governance 3 Functions and traditions 4 Notable members 5 References 6 External links 7 Other notable mountaineering clubsHistory editThe club has taken a significant part in the development of mountaineering in the United Kingdom and many British climbers have been members of the club 2 Andrew Irvine was at Merton College and was a member of the OUMC at the time of his fatal attempt to climb Everest with George Mallory Tom Bourdillon whose father was one of the club s founders Charles Evans and Michael Westmacott all former members of the OUMC 3 were members of the successful 1953 British Expedition to Everest Evans was Deputy Leader to John Hunt on that expedition Bourdillon was responsible for the oxygen apparatus and Westmacott was in charge of keeping the dangerous passage through the Khumbu Icefall open 4 Bourdillon and Evans made the first attempt on the summit on 26 May 1953 three days before the successful climb by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay They reached the South Summit 4 at 8750 m then the highest summit to have been climbed but had to turn back due to severe exhaustion Charles Evans was later the Leader of the first successful expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1955 4 Stephen Venables was the first British climber to climb Everest without using an oxygen cylinder he climbed to the South Col via the Kangshung Face creating a new route and then went solo to the summit as his colleagues were exhausted 4 The club has sent exploratory mountaineering expeditions to mountain ranges all over the world It claims first ascents of peaks in such places as Greenland the Himalayas the Karakoram Kishtwar Peru Spitsbergen and Wakhan 2 4 Governance editThe club is operated by committee the executive president secretary treasurer is always made up from Oxford University Students but the wider committee roles are open to any members Functions and traditions editThis section does not cite any sources Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources Unsourced material may be challenged and removed September 2023 Learn how and when to remove this message The club usually meets on a Wednesday during Oxford term time at the Gardeners Arms pub This is where members can sign up to go on weekend meets Meets are organised climbing trips facilitated by the hire of a minibus and campsite The club meets typically include overnight trips to Dartmoor the Lake District and Cornwall and single day trips to the Wye Valley and Peak District Alongside outdoor climbing trips the club organises a roped up pub crawl in the first weeks of term where all attendees must negotiate the streets of Oxford whilst being tied to one another a ceilidh a Christmas dinner Notable members editSir Arnold Lunn 1888 1974 Balliol Robert Benedict Bourdillon 1889 1971 Balliol Andrew Irvine 1902 1924 Merton Charles Evans 1918 1995 New College Tom Bourdillon 1924 1956 Balliol Michael Westmacott b 1925 Balliol president 5 Sir Anthony James Leggett b 1938 Balliol Stephen Venables b 1954 New College George Atkinson b 1994 Linacre CollegeReferences edit Denning Andrew 2014 Skiing Into Modernity A Cultural and Environmental History Univ of California Press p 7 ISBN 978 0 520 28427 2 a b c Ross Andrew 2009 100 Years of The OUMC A Brief and Personal History PDF Alpine Journal Retrieved 23 February 2017 Thompson Simon 21 July 2011 Unjustifiable Risk The Story of British Climbing Cicerone Press p 237 ISBN 978 1852846275 a b c d e A Brief History of OUMC OUMC Retrieved 22 February 2017 Isserman Maurice Weaver Stewart Molenaar Dee 2010 Fallen Giants A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes Yale University Press p 278 ISBN 978 0 300 16420 6 External links editClub websiteOther notable mountaineering clubs editPreston Mountaineering Club Glasgow University Mountaineering Club Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Oxford University Mountaineering Club amp oldid 1175426318, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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