Terry "Mugs" Stump (August 28, 1949 – May 21, 1992) was a noted American rock climber and mountaineer, active in establishing difficult first ascents in the Alaska Range and the Canadian Rockies. He died from falling into a crevasse while descending the South Buttress of Denali on May 21, 1992, while guiding clients Bob Hoffman and Nelson Max.[1]
He is most noted for the first ascent of the Emperor Face on Mount Robson with Jim Logan, and for three routes in the Alaska Range, the East Face of The Moose's Tooth, the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter, and a one-day solo of Denali'sCassin Ridge.
Climber Conrad Anker credits Stump as an influential climbing mentor in the film Meru.[2]
1991 Freezer Burn aka Free or Burn (IV 5.11+), East Temple, Zion National Park, Utah; FFA with Lynn Wheeler[9]
1992 First winter ascent of Hallucinogin Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, with John Middendorf. First Time a major Black Canyon big wall ascended in winter.
Referencesedit
^"Expedition Leader Killed in Mount McKinley Fall". Daily Sitka Sentinel. 26 May 1992. p. 8.
^Schaffer, Grayson (18 June 2015). "How Conrad Anker Risked It All to Chase a Dream". Outside. Retrieved 2017-06-15.
^Heinrich, Doug. . Black Diamond Equipment. Archived from the original on 2009-01-06. Retrieved 2009-05-29.
^Logan, James (1979). "Mount Robson's Emperor Face". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY USA: American Alpine Club. 22 (53): 122–124. ISBN978-0-930410-75-9.
^Beckwith, Christian (September 1, 2004). "Gods and Monsters". Alpinist. Alpinist Magazine (8). Retrieved 2009-05-29.
^"1981 Mountaineering Summary, Denali National Park and preserve" (PDF). National Park Service. Retrieved 2009-05-29.
^"Climbs and expeditions 1987". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY USA: American Alpine Club. 30 (62): 109, 115. 1988. ISBN0-930410-33-5.
mugs, stump, terry, mugs, stump, august, 1949, 1992, noted, american, rock, climber, mountaineer, active, establishing, difficult, first, ascents, alaska, range, canadian, rockies, died, from, falling, into, crevasse, while, descending, south, buttress, denali. Terry Mugs Stump August 28 1949 May 21 1992 was a noted American rock climber and mountaineer active in establishing difficult first ascents in the Alaska Range and the Canadian Rockies He died from falling into a crevasse while descending the South Buttress of Denali on May 21 1992 while guiding clients Bob Hoffman and Nelson Max 1 Mugs StumpBornTerry StumpAugust 28 1949Mifflintown Pennsylvania USDiedMay 21 1992 aged 42 Denali Borough Alaska AKNationalityAmericanOccupationMountaineerOrganization s United States Antarctic Program National Science FoundationParent s Warren Stump and Florence ManbeckRelatives3 brothers Ed Quig and ThadHe is most noted for the first ascent of the Emperor Face on Mount Robson with Jim Logan and for three routes in the Alaska Range the East Face of The Moose s Tooth the Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter and a one day solo of Denali s Cassin Ridge Climber Conrad Anker credits Stump as an influential climbing mentor in the film Meru 2 Stump along with his geologist brother contributed to field safety for the United States Antarctic Program scientists and other working on the continent for the National Science Foundation The Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award for aspiring alpine climbers is named in his honor 3 Contents 1 Early life 2 First ascents and notable ascents 3 References 4 External linksEarly life editMugs was born in Mifflintown Pennsylvania where he grew up fishing hunting and camping with his father Warren and three brothers First ascents and notable ascents edit1978 Stump Logan Emperor Face Mount Robson VI 5 9 A2 2500m with Jim Logan 4 1981 Dance of the Woo Li Masters East Face of The Moose s Tooth Ruth Gorge Alaska US VI 5 9 WI4 A4 1520m with Jim Bridwell 5 1981 Moonflower Buttress North Buttress of Mount Hunter Alaska Range Alaska Grade 6 5 8 A3 AI6 6100 with Paul Aubrey NZ FA to ridge crest 6 1987 South Face Broken Tooth Ruth Gorge Alaska Range IV 5 10 A3 FA with Steve Quinlan 7 1990 Rodeo Queen Streaked Wall Zion National Park FA with Conrad Anker 8 1991 Freezer Burn aka Free or Burn IV 5 11 East Temple Zion National Park Utah FFA with Lynn Wheeler 9 1992 First winter ascent of Hallucinogin Wall Black Canyon of the Gunnison with John Middendorf First Time a major Black Canyon big wall ascended in winter References edit Expedition Leader Killed in Mount McKinley Fall Daily Sitka Sentinel 26 May 1992 p 8 Schaffer Grayson 18 June 2015 How Conrad Anker Risked It All to Chase a Dream Outside Retrieved 2017 06 15 Heinrich Doug about Mugs Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award Black Diamond Equipment Archived from the original on 2009 01 06 Retrieved 2009 05 29 Logan James 1979 Mount Robson s Emperor Face American Alpine Journal New York NY USA American Alpine Club 22 53 122 124 ISBN 978 0 930410 75 9 Beckwith Christian September 1 2004 Gods and Monsters Alpinist Alpinist Magazine 8 Retrieved 2009 05 29 1981 Mountaineering Summary Denali National Park and preserve PDF National Park Service Retrieved 2009 05 29 Climbs and expeditions 1987 American Alpine Journal New York NY USA American Alpine Club 30 62 109 115 1988 ISBN 0 930410 33 5 First Ascent Info Bigwall dot Com Retrieved 2008 02 06 Bjornstad Eric 1996 Desert Rock Rock Climbs in the National Parks Evergreen CO Chockstone Press p 75 ISBN 0 934641 92 7 External links editThe Dream A Journey of the Spirit with Mugs Stump mugs nbsp nbsp nbsp This biographical article related to American sports is a stub You can help Wikipedia by expanding it vte nbsp This biographical article relating to climbing or mountaineering is a stub You can help Wikipedia by expanding it vte Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Mugs Stump amp oldid 1156597639, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
