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Mount Hunter (Alaska)

Mount Hunter or Begguya is a mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska. It is approximately eight miles (13 km) south of Denali, the highest peak in North America. "Begguya" means child (of Denali) in the Dena'ina language. Mount Hunter is the third-highest major peak in the Alaska Range.[1]

Mount Hunter
Begguya
Mt. Hunter from the northwest (Kahilta Base Camp)
Highest point
Elevation14,573 ft (4,442 m)[1]
NAVD88
Prominence4,653 ft (1,418 m)[1]
Isolation6.88 mi (11.07 km)[1]
Listing
Coordinates62°57′03″N 151°05′22″W / 62.95083°N 151.08944°W / 62.95083; -151.08944Coordinates: 62°57′03″N 151°05′22″W / 62.95083°N 151.08944°W / 62.95083; -151.08944[2]
Geography
Mount Hunter
Location in Alaska
LocationMatanuska-Susitna Borough, Alaska, U.S.
Parent rangeAlaska Range
Topo mapUSGS Talkeetna D-3[2]
Climbing
First ascent1954 by Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, Henry Meybohm[3]
Easiest routeserious snow/ice/rock climb (Alaska Grade 4, 5.8, AI 3)
Looking down the SW Ridge at about 10,500 ft.

Mount Hunter has a complex structure: it is topped by a large, low-angled glacier plateau, connecting the North (Main) Summit and the South Summit (13,965 feet or 4,257 m). Long, corniced ridges extend in various directions; between them are exceptionally steep faces.

Naming of the mountain

The native name for the mountain is Begguya, meaning "Denali's Child". Early prospectors referred to the mountain as Mount Roosevelt. In 1903, Robert Dunn, a reporter for the New York Commercial Advertiser, visited the area as part of Frederick Cook's attempt to climb Mount McKinley. He bestowed the name of his aunt Anna Falconnet Hunter (1885–1941), who financed his trip, on a high nearby mountain, prominent from the northwest. This was, in fact, a different peak, now known as Kahiltna Dome. The name Hunter was mistakenly applied to the present-day Mount Hunter by a government surveyor in 1906.[4]

In October 2010, the South Summit was named Mount Stevens, after Ted Stevens (1923–2010), a former senator of Alaska.[5]

Climbing history

Despite being much lower in elevation than Denali (formerly Mount McKinley), Mount Hunter is a more difficult climb, due to its steep faces and corniced ridges; it also sees far less traffic than its larger neighbor.

Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, and Henry Meybohm completed the first ascent in 1954, via the long West Ridge; this was a great accomplishment for the time and used techniques such as extensive front-pointing which were unusual in the climbing world.[3]

Beginning in 1977, with Michael Kennedy and George Lowe's climb of a route on the northwest face of Mount Hunter, this steep rock and ice face has been the scene of many landmark hard climbs.

Notable ascents

  • 1954 West Ridge - first ascent of the peak by Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, and Henry Meybohm[6][3]
  • 1977 Lowe-Kennedy, on the north face.[7]
  • 1979 South Spur by John Mallon Waterman (solo, 145 days)[8]
  • 1981 Moonflower Buttress (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6 6100') first ascent to last rock band by Mugs Stump and Paul Aubry (NZ).[9]
  • 1983 Moonflower Buttress to summit, first complete ascent by Todd Bibler and Doug Klewin.[9]
  • 1985 "Diamond Arete" (Alaska Grade 6) first ascent by Jack Tackle and Jim Donini
  • 1989 Northwest Face first ascent by Conrad Anker and Seth 'S.T.' Shaw, summit attained July 3, 1989.[10]
  • 1994 Deprivation, (Alaska Grade 6, Alpine ED+, 90deg ice) first ascent by Scott Backes and Mark Francis Twight.[11]
  • 1994 Wall of Shadows, (Alaska Grade 6, AI6+ 5.9 A4) first ascent by Greg Child and Michael Kennedy.[12]
 
Mount Hunter, Alaska
 
Mt. Hunter, nestled between Mt. Foraker and Denali.

See also

Notes

  1. ^ This is excluding the North Peak and other sub-summits of Denali.

References

  1. ^ a b c "Mount Hunter, Alaska". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved December 30, 2015.
  2. ^ a b "Mount Hunter". Geographic Names Information System. United States Geological Survey, United States Department of the Interior. Retrieved 2014-08-03.
  3. ^ a b c Beckey, Fred (1955). "Mt. Deborah and Mt. Hunter: First Ascents". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 9 (2). Retrieved 2020-11-22.
  4. ^ Jonathan Waterman, High Alaska, AAC Press, 1988.
  5. ^ . Alaska Beat. Alaska Dispatch Publishing. October 19, 2010. Archived from the original on October 23, 2010. Retrieved 2010-10-19.
  6. ^ Selters 2004, p. 170
  7. ^ Selters 2004, p. 263
  8. ^ Krakauer, Jon (January 1993). "Death of an Innocent: How Christopher McCandless lost his way in the wilds". The Independent. Outside Magazine. Archived from the original on 2014-03-16. Retrieved June 28, 2020.
  9. ^ a b Westman, Mark (May 25, 2007). "Hunter: Grand repeat and epic near-ascent". Alpinist Newswire. Alpinist Magazine. Retrieved July 24, 2010.
  10. ^ Anker, Conrad (1990). "Hunter's Northwest Face". American Alpine Journal. NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 42 (64): 36–38. ISBN 0-930410-43-2. Retrieved 2020-11-22.
  11. ^ Twight, Mark Francis (1995). ""Deprivation" on Mount Hunter". American Alpine Journal. Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club. 37 (69): 11–14. ISBN 0-930410-61-0.
  12. ^ Kennedy, Michael (1995). "Shadows of Doubt, Mount Hunter". American Alpine Journal. Golden, CO, USA: American Alpine Club. 37 (69): 1–10. ISBN 0-930410-61-0. Retrieved 2020-11-22.
Sources
  • Selters, Andy (2004). Ways to the Sky. Golden, CO, USA: The American Alpine Club Press. ISBN 0-930410-83-1.

External links

  • Mount Hunter weather: Mountain Forecast
 
Mount Hunter aerial

mount, hunter, alaska, mount, hunter, begguya, mountain, denali, national, park, alaska, approximately, eight, miles, south, denali, highest, peak, north, america, begguya, means, child, denali, dena, language, mount, hunter, third, highest, major, peak, alask. Mount Hunter or Begguya is a mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska It is approximately eight miles 13 km south of Denali the highest peak in North America Begguya means child of Denali in the Dena ina language Mount Hunter is the third highest major peak in the Alaska Range 1 Mount HunterBegguyaMt Hunter from the northwest Kahilta Base Camp Highest pointElevation14 573 ft 4 442 m 1 NAVD88Prominence4 653 ft 1 418 m 1 Isolation6 88 mi 11 07 km 1 ListingNorth America highest peaks 22ndUS highest major peaks 10thAlaska highest major peaks 10thCoordinates62 57 03 N 151 05 22 W 62 95083 N 151 08944 W 62 95083 151 08944 Coordinates 62 57 03 N 151 05 22 W 62 95083 N 151 08944 W 62 95083 151 08944 2 GeographyMount HunterLocation in AlaskaLocationMatanuska Susitna Borough Alaska U S Parent rangeAlaska RangeTopo mapUSGS Talkeetna D 3 2 ClimbingFirst ascent1954 by Fred Beckey Heinrich Harrer Henry Meybohm 3 Easiest routeserious snow ice rock climb Alaska Grade 4 5 8 AI 3 Looking down the SW Ridge at about 10 500 ft Mount Hunter has a complex structure it is topped by a large low angled glacier plateau connecting the North Main Summit and the South Summit 13 965 feet or 4 257 m Long corniced ridges extend in various directions between them are exceptionally steep faces Contents 1 Naming of the mountain 2 Climbing history 2 1 Notable ascents 3 See also 4 Notes 5 References 6 External linksNaming of the mountain EditThe native name for the mountain is Begguya meaning Denali s Child Early prospectors referred to the mountain as Mount Roosevelt In 1903 Robert Dunn a reporter for the New York Commercial Advertiser visited the area as part of Frederick Cook s attempt to climb Mount McKinley He bestowed the name of his aunt Anna Falconnet Hunter 1885 1941 who financed his trip on a high nearby mountain prominent from the northwest This was in fact a different peak now known as Kahiltna Dome The name Hunter was mistakenly applied to the present day Mount Hunter by a government surveyor in 1906 4 In October 2010 the South Summit was named Mount Stevens after Ted Stevens 1923 2010 a former senator of Alaska 5 Climbing history EditDespite being much lower in elevation than Denali formerly Mount McKinley Mount Hunter is a more difficult climb due to its steep faces and corniced ridges it also sees far less traffic than its larger neighbor Fred Beckey Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm completed the first ascent in 1954 via the long West Ridge this was a great accomplishment for the time and used techniques such as extensive front pointing which were unusual in the climbing world 3 Beginning in 1977 with Michael Kennedy and George Lowe s climb of a route on the northwest face of Mount Hunter this steep rock and ice face has been the scene of many landmark hard climbs Notable ascents Edit 1954 West Ridge first ascent of the peak by Fred Beckey Heinrich Harrer and Henry Meybohm 6 3 1977 Lowe Kennedy on the north face 7 1979 South Spur by John Mallon Waterman solo 145 days 8 1981 Moonflower Buttress Alaska Grade 6 5 8 A3 AI6 6100 first ascent to last rock band by Mugs Stump and Paul Aubry NZ 9 1983 Moonflower Buttress to summit first complete ascent by Todd Bibler and Doug Klewin 9 1985 Diamond Arete Alaska Grade 6 first ascent by Jack Tackle and Jim Donini 1989 Northwest Face first ascent by Conrad Anker and Seth S T Shaw summit attained July 3 1989 10 1994 Deprivation Alaska Grade 6 Alpine ED 90deg ice first ascent by Scott Backes and Mark Francis Twight 11 1994 Wall of Shadows Alaska Grade 6 AI6 5 9 A4 first ascent by Greg Child and Michael Kennedy 12 Mount Hunter Alaska Mt Hunter nestled between Mt Foraker and Denali See also Edit North America portal United States portal Alaska portal Mountains portalList of mountain peaks of North America List of mountain peaks of the United States List of mountain peaks of Alaska List of the highest major summits of the United States List of the most prominent summits of the United StatesNotes Edit This is excluding the North Peak and other sub summits of Denali References Edit a b c Mount Hunter Alaska Peakbagger com Retrieved December 30 2015 a b Mount Hunter Geographic Names Information System United States Geological Survey United States Department of the Interior Retrieved 2014 08 03 a b c Beckey Fred 1955 Mt Deborah and Mt Hunter First Ascents American Alpine Journal American Alpine Club 9 2 Retrieved 2020 11 22 Jonathan Waterman High Alaska AAC Press 1988 Hello Mount Stevens Alaska Beat Alaska Dispatch Publishing October 19 2010 Archived from the original on October 23 2010 Retrieved 2010 10 19 Selters 2004 p 170 Selters 2004 p 263 Krakauer Jon January 1993 Death of an Innocent How Christopher McCandless lost his way in the wilds The Independent Outside Magazine Archived from the original on 2014 03 16 Retrieved June 28 2020 a b Westman Mark May 25 2007 Hunter Grand repeat and epic near ascent Alpinist Newswire Alpinist Magazine Retrieved July 24 2010 Anker Conrad 1990 Hunter s Northwest Face American Alpine Journal NYC NY USA American Alpine Club 42 64 36 38 ISBN 0 930410 43 2 Retrieved 2020 11 22 Twight Mark Francis 1995 Deprivation on Mount Hunter American Alpine Journal Golden CO USA American Alpine Club 37 69 11 14 ISBN 0 930410 61 0 Kennedy Michael 1995 Shadows of Doubt Mount Hunter American Alpine Journal Golden CO USA American Alpine Club 37 69 1 10 ISBN 0 930410 61 0 Retrieved 2020 11 22 SourcesSelters Andy 2004 Ways to the Sky Golden CO USA The American Alpine Club Press ISBN 0 930410 83 1 External links EditMount Hunter at Wikipedia s sister projects Definitions from Wiktionary Media from Commons News from Wikinews Quotations from Wikiquote Texts from Wikisource Textbooks from Wikibooks Resources from Wikiversity Mount Hunter weather Mountain Forecast Mount Hunter aerial Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Mount Hunter Alaska amp oldid 1141900592, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,

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