This article is about the mountain in Khumbu, Nepal. For the nearby village, see Lobuche, Nepal. For the 7,367m Himalayan outlier peak in Tibet, see Labuche Kang.
Lobuche (also spelt Lobuje) is a Nepalese mountain which lies close to the Khumbu Glacier and the settlement of Lobuche. There are two main peaks, Lobuche East and Lobuche West. A permit to climb the mountain is required from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), which classifies Lobuche East (6,119m) as a "trekking peak" and Lobuche West (6,145m) as an "expedition peak". As the easier, trekking peak, the East peak is climbed far more frequently than the West peak; however, most of those climbers only do so to a false summit a few hours from the true summit of Lobuche East. Between the two peaks is a long, deeply notched ridge, though a steep drop and considerable distance makes approaching the West peak from the East impossible.[2]
The first recorded ascent of Lobuche East was made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen on April 25, 1984.[1]
Lobuje West was first climbed in 1955 via the South Shoulder.
Name ConfusionEdit
Many of the tourist operators offering treks and climbs to Lobuje refer to the two peaks as "Lobuche East" and "Lobuche Far East". The NMA - who own the mountain - however, refer to them as Lobuche West and Lobuche East.
Lobuche East from the northeastLobuche East's northeast face route, "Talking About Tsampa"The southwest pillar of Lobuche East (6,090m), showing (1) Hiding in Plain Sight (2017), probably similar to the 1995 Spanish route; (2) 2018 French route, Le Quatuor à Cordes. (3) 1991 American-Nepalese Route. (Credit:Steve Fortune)
Notable AscentsEdit
In 1998, from September 29 to October 1, Slovenians Tomaž Humar and Janez Jeglič and Spaniard Carlos Carsolio climbed a new route on Lobuche East's northeast face in Alpine style. They named the route "Talking About Tsampa" (V-VI, 5.9, WI4, 85°, 900m).
Along the strikingly prominent southwestern pillar of Lobuche East, several routes have been completed. On a 1991 expedition, Eric Brand and Pemba Norbu used fixed ropes to climb the west pillar to the northwest summit (VI, 5.10, A3).[3] In 1995, Carlos Miguel and Eduard Sanchez also climbed the west pillar by a 6b+ route with one aid pitch.[3] They intersected with the Brand-Norbu route halfway up. In 2010, Americans Joel Kauffman and Jarad Vilhauer climbed a new route on the southwest face of Lobuje East (6119m) in Nepal's Khumbu region on October 30th. They established "Night Terrors" (VI, WI5+, AI4, M7, 85°) in a 37-hour push from advance base camp to the summit, and then descended to base camp via the normal route (south spur).
In 2010, Antonin Cecchini, Laurent Thévenot, Aurélien Vaissière, and Symon Welfringer arrived at Dzongla village and started climbing a route similar to the one used for the 1995 Spanish ascent (by Miguel-Miranda-Sanchez), which took them two long days to complete, after which they traversed from the true summit towards the false summit and then descended the mountain, reaching Dzongla by midnight (the descent took 5 and a half hours). They named the route "Le Quatuor à Cordes" (6b, A2, M4, 80°, 1,100m).[4]
ReferencesEdit
^ ab"Lobuje West". Nepal Mountaineering Association. Retrieved 4 October 2018.
^ . www.nepalmountaineering.org. Archived from the original on 28 May 2019. Retrieved 4 October 2018.
^ ab Fortune, Steve (2019). "Lobuche East, Southwest Pillar, Hiding in Plain Sight". Climbs and Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. New Zealand: New Zealand Alpine Club. 61 (93): 323. Retrieved 27 November 2021.
^ Welfringer, Symon (2019). "Lobuche East Southwest Pillar, Le Quatuor à Cordes". Climbs and Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. France: Himalayan Database. 61 (93): 0. Retrieved 27 November 2021.
August 28, 2023
lobuche, this, article, about, mountain, khumbu, nepal, nearby, village, nepal, 367m, himalayan, outlier, peak, tibet, labuche, kang, also, spelt, lobuje, nepalese, mountain, which, lies, close, khumbu, glacier, settlement, there, main, peaks, east, west, perm. This article is about the mountain in Khumbu Nepal For the nearby village see Lobuche Nepal For the 7 367m Himalayan outlier peak in Tibet see Labuche Kang Lobuche also spelt Lobuje is a Nepalese mountain which lies close to the Khumbu Glacier and the settlement of Lobuche There are two main peaks Lobuche East and Lobuche West A permit to climb the mountain is required from the Nepal Mountaineering Association NMA which classifies Lobuche East 6 119m as a trekking peak and Lobuche West 6 145m as an expedition peak As the easier trekking peak the East peak is climbed far more frequently than the West peak however most of those climbers only do so to a false summit a few hours from the true summit of Lobuche East Between the two peaks is a long deeply notched ridge though a steep drop and considerable distance makes approaching the West peak from the East impossible 2 Lobuche EastLobujeLobuche East from the southeastHighest pointElevationWest 6 145 m 20 161 ft East 6 119 m 20 075 ft 1 Prominence275 m 902 ft Coordinates27 57 34 2 N 86 47 23 8 E 27 959500 N 86 789944 E 27 959500 86 789944GeographyLobuche EastLocation in NepalLocationKhumbu NepalParent rangeHimalayasClimbingFirst ascentApril 25 1984Easiest routeScramble Rock Snow ClimbThe first recorded ascent of Lobuche East was made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen on April 25 1984 1 Lobuje West was first climbed in 1955 via the South Shoulder Name Confusion EditMany of the tourist operators offering treks and climbs to Lobuje refer to the two peaks as Lobuche East and Lobuche Far East The NMA who own the mountain however refer to them as Lobuche West and Lobuche East Lobuche East from the northeast Lobuche East s northeast face route Talking About Tsampa The southwest pillar of Lobuche East 6 090m showing 1 Hiding in Plain Sight 2017 probably similar to the 1995 Spanish route 2 2018 French route Le Quatuor a Cordes 3 1991 American Nepalese Route Credit Steve Fortune Notable Ascents EditIn 1998 from September 29 to October 1 Slovenians Tomaz Humar and Janez Jeglic and Spaniard Carlos Carsolio climbed a new route on Lobuche East s northeast face in Alpine style They named the route Talking About Tsampa V VI 5 9 WI4 85 900m Along the strikingly prominent southwestern pillar of Lobuche East several routes have been completed On a 1991 expedition Eric Brand and Pemba Norbu used fixed ropes to climb the west pillar to the northwest summit VI 5 10 A3 3 In 1995 Carlos Miguel and Eduard Sanchez also climbed the west pillar by a 6b route with one aid pitch 3 They intersected with the Brand Norbu route halfway up In 2010 Americans Joel Kauffman and Jarad Vilhauer climbed a new route on the southwest face of Lobuje East 6119m in Nepal s Khumbu region on October 30th They established Night Terrors VI WI5 AI4 M7 85 in a 37 hour push from advance base camp to the summit and then descended to base camp via the normal route south spur In 2010 Antonin Cecchini Laurent Thevenot Aurelien Vaissiere and Symon Welfringer arrived at Dzongla village and started climbing a route similar to the one used for the 1995 Spanish ascent by Miguel Miranda Sanchez which took them two long days to complete after which they traversed from the true summit towards the false summit and then descended the mountain reaching Dzongla by midnight the descent took 5 and a half hours They named the route Le Quatuor a Cordes 6b A2 M4 80 1 100m 4 References Edit a b Lobuje West Nepal Mountaineering Association Retrieved 4 October 2018 NMA Peak Guide Lobuje West www nepalmountaineering org Archived from the original on 28 May 2019 Retrieved 4 October 2018 a b Fortune Steve 2019 Lobuche East Southwest Pillar Hiding in Plain Sight Climbs and Expeditions American Alpine Journal New Zealand New Zealand Alpine Club 61 93 323 Retrieved 27 November 2021 Welfringer Symon 2019 Lobuche East Southwest Pillar Le Quatuor a Cordes Climbs and Expeditions American Alpine Journal France Himalayan Database 61 93 0 Retrieved 27 November 2021 Retrieved from https en wikipedia org w index php title Lobuche amp oldid 1144831107, wikipedia, wiki, book, books, library,
